Part 1 of 2 - Chevy Cruze - Bad Head Gasket - How to remove and replace.
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- Опубліковано 4 бер 2021
- Today I will be removing the cylinder head on this 2014 Chevy Cruze with the 1.4 Liter Turbocharged 4 Cylinder. This can serve as a complete guide, as I will show you every step of the way.
Important - if you're this far in, have the cylinder head hydrotested. This particular vehicle was burning coolant and all signs pointed to the head gasket. In the end, the cylinder head itself was cracked on the exhaust side of cylinder 1 which was causing the issue.
If you feel that I earned it, I'd greatly appreciate a thumbs up! Also, please consider subscribing!
Watch for Part 2 of 2 which will cover re-assembly, and thank you so much for watching!
Link to the timing tool:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Now for the fine print:
Disclaimer - this video is for entertainment and informational purposes only. Do not attempt. Attempts to recreate, reproduce, or replicate anything seen in this video is done at your own risk. As with any product, it should only be serviced by the manufacturer or a licensed professional. Tampering with your product may void your warranty. Video owner shall not be held responsible if you void your warranty. The video owner will not be liable for any damage or injury incurred by anyone to anything while trying follow the steps in this video. Any and all liability to any part for any direct, indirect, implied, punitive, special, incidental, or consequential damages arising directly or indirectly from any use of the video content is hereby disclaimed. No guarantees or warranties are either implied or expressed that you will have the same results as shown in this video. - Авто та транспорт
I'm a professional mechanic with over 25 years experience. This guy is really good at preparing mating surfaces in this video, looks like a pro. When I started this video I wanted to see if he was gonna check with a straight edge. MLS gaskets don't fail unless they're rusted thru(which I've seen like once or twice) it's ALWAYS the head, either warped or cracked. When I started fixing cars in the 90s we did head gasket jobs all the time with no worries but this ain't the 80s- 90s engines we're working on now. Nobody does head gaskets anymore without replacing the head. Ya might gamble and win but they're lottery odds you're up against.
I'm glad to hear that I appear to be a pro! haha I agree, warped head is the typical cause of these head gasket failures. Of course, in my case, it was a warped AND cracked head. Lucky me! Thanks for watching, the compliments, and for sharing your experience!
@@3DayWeekend I’m going through a similar issue. This is a new to me car 200k miles….. everything has worked perfect on this car. I was beginning to think I got a lucky Cruze. I was checking my oil and coolant before going on a long drive. After about 50 miles my dash said engine over heating and it also killed my A/C, I pulled over popped my hood, realized I never did put my coolant cap back on. I felt so dumb, Coolant was shooting everywhere. The reservoir was bubbling. The car had a rough idol. I let it cool down for about 30-40 minutes, refilled the reservoir again rough idol at start but drove fine. At nearest gas station it was blowing excessive white smoke out of exhaust. Checked the oil and there was no coolant in the oil. I ended up turning around and I had to pull over three or four times adding water because it kept overheating, the water was not necessarily going anywhere, but the reservoir was so hot and full of pressure it overheated, the following morning I bled the radiator getting all of the air out. starting the car and it was having issues starting. finally got started, idle fine, still white smoke, checked oil and boom! I believe coolant/and water has mixed with the oil. I went to the store again, having issues starting so I parked it in my driveway and trying to figure out what the problem is. I believe it’s a head gasket, but not 100%.
@@ericsanchez7789 White smoke means water is getting into the combustion chamber, so that's not a good symptom. It is likely a bad head gasket, and quite possibly a cracked cylinder head. These engines have weak head gaskets and cylinder heads. One overheat is enough to ruin a head gasket and crack a cylinder head. If I were in your position, I would just pull the head now and have it hydrotested and decked by your local machine shop, then put it back together again. Sorry for the bad news.
@@ericsanchez7789Just get a new car. These pos are not worth the time
My purpose of watching was 2 fold, obviously, to see how it's done, but , just more importantly, SO I DON'T HAVE TO DO IT TWICE! Thanks for all you do.
Glad it helped and thank you for watching!
@@edsullivan7288 put the camshaft indexer key in before you remove the head and stick a piece of tape there so you won't have to retime it after assembly.
@doomVoxel thank you for the help
Nicely done sir
There are folks like me who appreciate what you did here.
Much effort and I am truly grateful
Thank you!
When you add the part of experience at the end where everything is looking good but take it to the machine shop to get it checked is pure GOLD thank you for the insight and also sharing the option was genius level.
Life experience kicking in for the win right there! Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend hello there
can you please tell me what kind of machine shop can check this type of measurement
thank you also for great video you got new subs 😀
@@gshotboss835 Hi! Typically if you search for an "engine machine shop", you'll probably find one near you. If not, call those search results up and ask them, and they can probably refer you to one. If your local Napa is anything like mine, you could run down there and speak to those guys, and they will know of one. Whoever you talk to, just tell them you need a cylinder head hydrotested and decked. They will know what you're talking about! Hope that helps!
@@3DayWeekend thank you so much for your replay and ur time
god bless you and ur famliy thanks again ☺
WOW Buddy sorry you had to do this multiple times. Thank you so much for saying the sizes of the bolts and things AND for telling us what each part you were taking off as well THAT thoughtfulness is why your video is highly regarded by me to anyone who ever has to do this job THANK YOU for making it and sharing it lol it’s me and you for a couple days lol pause/play-pause/play
Glad I could help. Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the details,its a big help.
Looking at helping a buddy replace the head on his son's 1.4l Turbo Cruze. Those 2 part series has become my homework.
Good luck to you, sir! I'll cross my fingers that the head is OK and it just needs a gasket.
@@3DayWeekend The head has a hole in it so it's not ok. We did the valve cover and gasket trying to chase down the leak. Thought it was the PCV regulator and while that was bad...it's not the only thing wrong.
@@HannibalACP82 those cheap crap plastic thermostat housings have flimsy tabs inside that can break and jam the thermostat closed. they make an aluminum aftermarket thermostat. that factory thermostat was what blew my cruze.
you may also want to go with an aluminum valve cover that has a serviceable pcv.
Chris, I just wanted to drop note to thank you for this very detailed video. Your enthusiasm, time lapses, and tips made the job accessible. I had been dealing with overheating for some time and after replacing a few other components a local mechanic diagnosed the blown head gasket. No one in my area was interested in taking on this project and those who offered did not come with very good references, so I thought I would try to take this on myself. As others have noted below, taking the head to a machinist was the perfect recommendation and saved me a bunch of time and money. I am now ~6 months into the replacement and haven't had any issues *fingers crossed*. In total it probably took me about 40 hours of work and has now empowered me to tackle other projects that I didn't ever think I could fix. I will be following Chris and using his videos more in the future. Thanks!
One note, I stripped the T55 plug where you insert the pin to keep the cam shaft set and creates slack in the timing chain. That was almost the death of me, take your time when removing bolts that have not been removed since day 1.
Thanks, Justin! I am thrilled that the video helped and that you were able to get back on the road! That plug can be a pain to get out and like to strip out with little warning. Fortunately they have a little lip on them so you can get vice grips locked onto it and can turn it out that way. Thanks again for your words of encouragement. They mean a lot to me!
A big thanks from me. My daughters shitbox Holden cruze over the past year has blown a heater hose, jammed the thermostat closed, and popped the coolant line to the turbo. So 3 good overheats, but she insisted on driving it the rest of the way home on the last one and blew the gasket as well as warping the head.
Its taken me many 3 day weekends to get all the parts and specialist tools in and get it back on the road, but you saved me a fortune by showing how the timing is set. A better detail of the wheels on the end of the cam shaft would have been handy, I got a exhaust timing code, as I thought it was correct as it fitted the guide, but was out about 60 degrees and still fitted.
Glad it helped! Yes, I've set a cam out of time before, but once everything was tightened down I turned it by hand to double check the timing and found that the timing set didn't quite fit in there just right. Turns out it fits in one of the notches, but not perfectly. Spun it around a bit and it fit right in. Thanks for watching!
GREAT video ! Thank you so much !! I've got to fix my Chevy truck first (2 vehicles, BOTH down ...ughhh ) so it can be mobile for a parts/tools chaser. LOL ! So goes life. Really appreciate the timer and info you shared with us. VERY much appreciated ! I'm '70 years old on SS, a former jet engine mechanic and classic car restorer. At todays prices on labor and parts, I've decided to dust off the ole SNAP-ONS and GIT-ER-DUN !! I still enjoy swinging a wrench but my BACK disagrees with it being fun .... lol. Haven't done much wrenchin' for a while but HERE WE GO !! Thanks for a very informative video !
A simple "thanks" would have been enough.... the rest of your story is pointless and not needed. *yawn*
You're welcome. Thanks for watching! Good luck with your project!
@@moshesheckel7369 don't like my story little liberal ?? Just move on. Nobody needs your 2 cents worth of lousy attitude Karen ....
Great video, it was nice how you explained each step and then did the Timelapse
Glad you liked it. Thanks!
Thank you a lot for sharing this great video. A complete repair job. Well done.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for making this video series. I was able to follow along and save myself thousands of dollars and learned a lot along the way. I can't thank you enough for this.
You are so welcome! Glad it helped you out! Thanks for watching.
Very well done - using your videos I was able to replace my head gasket
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Excellent work on this repair. Your attention to detail is exactly what I look for when facing , in my opinion, an above average DIY engine repair especially on 2000 and up Chevy and Chrysler engines. These type of repairs always fall into my lap and can be frustrating at times. Once again many thanks to you as I was able to complete the same repair with no issues. I am a subscriber now to your channel and look forward to watching more of your repair videos......
Thank you very much! I'm happy that you found it helpful! Thanks for the sub!
This engine is much better than earlier version. Put compressed aluminium composite doesn't like heat. I am just just starting on replacement of head gasket and looking at your video to learn all bolt locations and how to lock timing chain. Thanks for your honesty. I have always leaked for cracks unless no testing equipment available. At least easy clean up 2 time.
Very well explained,and you makes it looks easy to do it ,and I am going to try,thanks!
Thank you! Best of luck to you!
TIP: Push the metal clips on the injectors IN (not out) and carefully pull up on the connector. Those pins are NOT MEANT to be pulled out.
You're right, and I've been called out on that one a few times! haha I had just finished another vehicle with the pull kind and it didn't click with me until I put it back together that I could just push them in instead! Good tip. Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend Dont feel bad i used to remove them the same way.
Same. One of those clips is still stuck somewhere around the exhaust flange (fell IN BETWEEN the two pieces. Like, a 1 in 100,000,000 chance). To this day, a paperclip has held it on snug. So yeah, push them in. Don't try to take them off.
What this world be without people like you???
hello I have a question for you on my 2015 Chevy Cruze Lt 1.4 tubro engine I can't figure out whats going on my scan tool shows multiple codes Po303 ,po36 , and some thing to do with mass air flow sensor. I have replaced spark plugs and coil pack,new negative cable. Plus on the dashboard it says service stabilizer and traction control. my Mass air flow sensor I bought OEm Bosch I can't believe it is gone already I'm at a loss tried of putting money in to it but only thing I have to get me to my doctors appointments. But now I have to depend on rides ugh any help would be appreciated ty
Thank you! Following step by step as I'm doing my car. Invaluable info. I'm following your install video next!
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! Got my Cruze back on the road thanks to your videos.
That is awesome! I'm glad the video helped. Thank you so much for your support!!
This is such a great video thanks for the steps on how to do it
Glad it was helpful!
Just changed my head gasket this past 2 weeks, your videos helped a lot. Thanks Man
I'm happy it helped! Thanks for watching!
Greatly appreciated, thanks for this video, im going to approach this project by myself with my new found confidence, and im only 14 minutes in.
Glad it was helpful!
How is the repair going, I'm thinking of trying it myself also
@@dmorton80 let's just say, there is always a screw somewhere waiting. If you're talking to me.
Yeah I was, did you finish the repair?
@@dmorton80 no, between my day job and doing a little bit each night.
Señor, not all people shows every procedure 👍🏼 you are one of a kind 👍🏼 thanks 4 your video 4 sure u have 5⭐️ THANKS A LOT and 4 sure a new SUBSCRIBER
Thank you! I'm glad it helped. Welcome to the channel!
I might be looking down the barrel of this repair job on my 2011 and I'm absolutely terrified.
Best of luck to you! Don't rush it, follow the procedure and you'll be just fine!
Same with my 2011. How did it go???
I’m doing it now and once u take all the small stuff off like the valve cover all the wire harness it get pretty easy
How did it go?
@@ronaldwilliams4053😅
Wonderful good job - not easy to record while working - - Thank you for the hard work made life easy 😀 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Best video ,very well explained, Thanks for sharing,very helpful!
Happy to help. Thanks for watching!
Thanks my friend it's good to see the road ahead of you clearly 😊 👍🏾
Agreed. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for what you do! Great videos!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great help in removing the heads, now to check it and reinstall with a new gasket.
Glad it helped! Hopefully you're back on the road in no time!
@@N4594C i hate when people throw away perfectly good cars over something as minor as a head gasket
Can I just say that your content is just great , you do such an amazing job going into detail your videos are a great help and I would like to just say thank you very much for taking the time to do such good videos !👍 I also gave you a like and subscribed 👍 thanks again
That means a lot to me! Thank you very much for watching. I appreciate the sub!
In the middle of this job right now… thanks for the video! Wish me luck people
Best of luck!
My brother....thanks for this video instantly liked and followed your video. Much love all the way from Fiji
You're welcome! Thank you for the support!
followed the video to the T and was able to fix wife's car. Shop wanted 3-5k for the job on a car worth about 4k. Did it myself car is running fine and spent maybe $800 on tools and stuff i ended out purchasing (including rebuilt heads). thanks for this info!!!
You're welcome. Glad you found it helpful and that it saved you so much money!
Great video, thank you and asking for more like this, please.
Thanks for watching! Check out my "Cruze Repairs" playlist. It is pretty extensive!
Edit: you do not remove clips from fuel injectors, simply push them toward the injector connector and then pull connector up and off, connector will pull off injector and this way you will not loss clips.
Absolutely true, and I realized that on the next intake job I did! I misidentified it as a style clip another manufacturer uses which must be completely removed before it will release. Thanks for pointing that out!
Nice thanks
Glad you made this video . There is no way id be able to do this myself ( lack of tools and space ) just gonna sell it 😑
Thanks for watching! Sorry to hear you had to throw in the towel.
I agree, theres a Ton of special tools required. I just did the turbo job this weekend. It's not that complicated but its designed such that you need a tools you want have, especially for a DIY person, I love taking challenges but if my 2011 Opel Astra 1.4 turbo, needs a head or cylinder work, I will junk it period.
Hello I'm having issues with my 2015 chevy cruze 1.4 TUBRO I have replaced water pump , thermostat and water coolant outlet. No check engine light ever but it skips like crazy one of my coolant hoses doesn't like it is flowing coolant threw it it's the one that goes from water pump to the radiator on the passenger side of the car any help would be appreciated ty
@Pat Caron same, I just put tons of money into upgrades for my car thinking it had plenty of life left in it and now my head gasket sprung a leak :( 200$ part, 1200$ job
@@RandoManFPV $30 + $50 parts. $60 specialty tools counting the timing tool plus random torx sockets you may need (assuming you have basic tools and a tourqe wrench) its a $140-$150 job and 2 days of your time, most spent waiting for the tool and parts to come in.
Muchas grasias, buen video y claro. Saludos desde Dallas Texas.
Thanks for watching!
Loved the video. Very thorough.
Thank you!
This is a massive massive job excellent work
I appreciate that! Yes, it's a big job, and unfortunately, a very common failure. Thanks for watching!
All nice ones you guys get. I keep looking at the website.
That's the goal! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for taking time to share this. I have been working on this process but am not having any luck with the second timing pin (the first being the thick pin on the bottom and the second being the pin on the intake side). It doesn't seem to slide in as I would expect. Do you have any tips? If I pull on the 21mm wrench on the camshaft, I can get the pin in but it doesn't feel sturdy to, and if I release and pull on the 21mm some more, the lower thick pin falls out
It's not going to feel super sturdy. It's holding a little sleeve on a spring back. If the bottom pin keeps falling out, you can tape it in. The large pin falling out means you are perfectly at TDC. That little pin definitely needs to hold that tensioner though. Hopefully you were able to get it by now though. Thanks for watching!
im working on same issue....these little 4 banger engines with a turbo are high compression and need high octane gas. compression check showed 185-200, the knock sensor was out on the engine and caused the head to crack. thanx for showing everyway to remove the head, id leave the intake on.
Yes, I've done a few and left the intake on. Definitely easier and faster that way. Plenty of room with it in there. Hopefully you were able to find a replacement head without spending a fortune! Thanks for watching and for the comment! Glad the video was helpful.
You can have good compression and still have a cracked head, the knock sensor doesn't crack the head, your sensor could be ok but if you have too much slack in the timing chain that throws the knock sensor code. these engines are made for 87 octane.
Super nice video thank you so much
Most welcome. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2014 Holden Cruze 1.4L turbo that has broken one of the exhaust valves in cylinder No.3, of course the head will have to come off to replace it, did a search on how to remove the head and saw your video, doesn't look as difficult as I thought it would be, although I wouldn't tackle the job myself as I don't have the tools, or the experience, after getting a quote from a mechanic to do it, I'm debating weather it's worth fixing and just getting another car.
I haven't run across a broken valve in one of these yet, so that is interesting. But yeah, the head will have to come off. Definitely a hard choice ahead of you. Best of luck! Thanks for watching!
Had to rotate my 180 to get chain tensioner installed. The slack on the chain was on the fire wall side. Pulled bottom pin rotated 180 reinstalled bottom pin. Pulled on wrench and valve pin went right in and slack was now on top of the chain. My #1 cylinder is now top dead center. i.e. the 2 outside cylinders on the motor.
Perfect! Great pointer. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome thanks for the knowledge
You bet! Thanks for watching!
Welldone great video. How long did it take you to strip and assemble? I must say for a DIY to do this job, one needs a Ton of tools and special tools.👌
I didn't really time myself on this one and only worked on it in my spare time so I can't answer with any degree of accuracy. I can say that the last one I did took about 6 hours or so. Thanks for watching!
my little timing pin came out when i was pulling the head off off there’s a spring that popped out from somewhere too . any help would be appreciated.
Yeah, you have to slide the head to the right first or the pin will get caught and pull out of the tensioner. There is a spring that goes in the tensioner. Hopefully you were able to get it back together!
I sure hope you are married. The things this man can do with one hand is very impressive.
Great work man, seriously. Very meticulous, and yet straight to the point. Sub from me for sure.
Thank you very much! I appreciate the compliments and the sub!
Great videos very helpful. I am on this now and cant get the pin in the chain tensioner i have been trying for hours lol.
Hopefully you got it by now! It can be tricky to get it in there. If it helps, use a small mirror so you can see what you're aiming at. When it goes in, you'll know! Thanks for watching!
@@3DayWeekend yes it was not going back enough so I used a screwdriver jus to go that bit more. Head is off and the sump is now off. Pistons will be out tomorrow fi gers crossed its just rings. Thanks for the great videos a true help.
I have the same car. Started with filling the gas tank it would click alot and then turn over, but it would want to stall. Even at stop lights. Then one day the turbo area would rattle loud like a diesel truck and like to bog down. Jumping, shaking. Then I noticed my oil and coolant dropped down low. Overheated once. Kept getting MAP codes, Turbo underboost, Intake Air Flow performance, EVAP, and system too lean. Now it's slow to accelerate and louder. Spark plugs went again. No exhaust smoke though. No leaks besides watery leaks underneath Water Pump/Turbo area and Muffler. I pulled the Cat off and checked the honeycomb looked fine nothin unordinary. I did notice the Pcv Valve cover was causing gusts of air when I pulled out the dip stick so I need to replace that and maybe the Purge Canister Valve. I also noticed some build up in the Air Intake Manifolds check valve idk whether it ate it or it's just plastered oil residue all over it. Any thoughts?
That... is a lot. Based on the codes, my novice troubleshooting is telling me that you might have an air leak in your intake. I'd look at the charge pipe, check all of your hose connections, as well as your intercooler. That's where I would start, but it sounds like you have multiple issues all piling up on you. Unfortunately with these engines, one overheat could be enough to warp the head and throw the head gasket so you may have that job waiting for you in the future. I'd start with the MAP/underbooost/air flow/lean codes. Those are all pointing to an air leak on the intake side. Good luck to you!
Hey I’m trying to take out the water pump pulley to continue and want to know if it’s really necessary because I don’t have the bit nor does it want to come out
Yes, I had to remove it to gain access to other bolts.
Sorry to hear about the first head having a leak and it made me have mine tested and yes i found out only the valves have to be down. You almost think i could make something to test it and save money.
That would be great! I've had take so many down to the machine shop, it would make sense to buy a tester from you! Thanks for watching!
The small pins right before u pulled the head which holes did they go in?
I only used one of the small pins. It goes in the hole that has the torx bit cap on it. (See 18:21). Just be sure you put tension on the intake cam while you put it in (see 19:06). Hope that helps!
Video is awesome ! Doing a 2012 volt head gasket .... what is that tool for top dead center you got on Amazon ????
This one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VGCR3GV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Excellent Video!!! Thank U so much!!!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
You do Great work
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching.
what are those 3 bolts you removed for? the ones you said chevy is very specific about removing? and before doing what do you have to remove them?
Those bolts go through the timing cover and into the head from the side. In the beginning of the part 2 (reassembly) video you can see where they go when I put them back in.
This is awesome! Just what I needed.
Glad it helped!
the caps where the timing chain pin goes and the larger cap do they loosen the same as the rest? I can't get the cap for the chain pin to move and I'm afraid that I'm going to break the socket or strip out the cap?
Yes. The chain pin can be a pain, and they do strip out on occasion. Take your time and let it soak in PB Blaster. If it does strip, remove the water pump. That will give you enough access to get a pair of good vice grips on there and you can turn it out like that. Hope that helps!
Hi, kind of extreme question: what is the distance between the piston top dead state and the top of the cylinder wall?
I've never measured that distance. I just got another Cruze with (you guessed it), a bad head gasket. I'll try to remember to take that measurement when I have it open.
Excellently explained a lot of spots skipped and still clueless
Thanks for watching! Definitely not an easy job.
1.4 liter turbo in those little chevy sonics are the same engine correct? The special tool you had a link to is much cheaper than the one I'm looking at that specifically says it works for the sonic
Yes, I do believe they are the same engine. Thanks for watching!
Quick question. Will that timing tool kit work on a 2013 Chevy Sonic Lt 1.4l turbo?
Yes, those engines are the same.
Can you do a video on how to replace pistons step by step? With the motor in the car? I can’t find a vid anywhere
I'm sorry, I no longer have this vehicle. I did check the service manual and piston replacement is possible while the engine is still in the car, but I've never done this job on this particular vehicle. Hopefully you'll be able to get it running again! Thanks for watching!
I have a 2018 that will require a similar procedure to replace a burnt valve. Can you tell me if there is a big difference between the two to get the head off?
They did change the engine a bit in that year, but disassembly is very similar. I'm not familiar with the timing procedure on the new one though.
Can someone put a link to new head bolts? can’t seem to find them
I used the Fel-Pro from Rock Auto for my 2014.
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2014,cruze,1.4l+l4+turbocharged,3298529,engine,cylinder+head+bolt,5308
Do you need to replace the head bolts when doing this
Yes. Head bolts are not reusable.
When you do this should you replace the spark plugs
No, you don't need to right now. Many do though, since they are already out.
2017 chevy trax, just noticed traces of coolant in the combustion chamber. No overheating or milkshake. Found it today while fixing the typical pcv issue. More time then i wanted to use this weekend but hopefully nothing is warped/cracked.
Oh boy. Well, hopefully you made out well and it's ok now! Hope the video helped. Thanks for watching!
I made it out just fine she runs better then ever! Appreciate your video alot! The head was a bear to get into perfect position to slide back on, had to warranty the gasket because i accidentally kinked it up under the head but everything worked out! @@3DayWeekend
@@3DayWeekendIm baaack, timing cover gasket didnt hold. Looks like we pinched the headgasket again! Not risking it, redoing the headgasket again, this time with the timing cover off so should be way easier, i think i can leave the phasers on this time because no timing chain. Timing cover is already off just have to remove the intake manifold and the turbski.
The fuel injector clips, u just press on the clips and unplug. Pulling the clips out a lil will cause the clips to fall.
Yes, you are correct. I had mistook them for a different style. Good catch!
If I just push the intake back, I wouldn't have to unhook the injector plugs would I? Thanks
Correct. The injectors can stay plugged in because the entire harness gets pushed back with the intake.
Merci beaucoup. Tres interessant. On a le meme probleme avec une VOLT 2012. Le moteur semble etre le meme. Ca va etre tres utile.
Heureux de vous aider. Bonne chance et merci d'avoir regardé !
Quick question? How much for the labor do you think it would be? How many hours if I brought it in to a shop and bought my own part? I have a 2011 chevy cruz 1.4 turbo with a bad head gasket
The parts are very cheap. Maybe $100-200 if you bought everything yourself (head gasket, timing cover gasket, head bolts, silicone, coolant, oil change, etc). The labor is where it gets pretty intensive. The "book" calls for 11 hours, and that is assuming that everything goes well.
I was removing the head bolts and snapped 3 of them off in the head/block I was able to remove all the other bolts but the head won’t budge and feels like it’s stuck on the side where the bolts broke off. My question is does the head have threads or should I still be able to pull the head with the broken studs
The head doesn't have threads, but it has to come up slightly then slide to the right to get a couple pins to disengage from the timing housing. You may have to remove the timing housing from the engine to allow the head to be lifted straight up. Best of luck to you!
If my timing chain tensioner guide came out while pulling head off. What will i need to do for the next step?
I don't remember if they can be replaced without removing the timing cover, but the first thing I would do is inspect it for damage. If it's not broken, you may be able to slide it back into place.
i have 2011 cruze 1,4 litre turbo i have small amounts of oil on 2 spark plugs and other 2 none can some tell me what is the cause car turns over but wont start , rad, hoze on houseing blew off engine over heated
There are so many things that could be wrong so it's pretty much impossible to troubleshoot remotely. The oil on the spark plugs is likely due to a bad valve cover gasket, which is a common issue in these engines but would not keep it from starting. Since the hose blew off, I'd start looking at electrical sensors - cam and crank. Maybe a wire was broken if the hose was violently ripped away. If you have a code reader, it might tell you. Hopefully you are able to get it going!
Good tip thanks.👌👍
You're welcome!
How do you know if the block was not damaged; warped or cracked as well ?
I believe I show the measurements for the block in the beginning of part 2. This will confirm that it is not warped. As far as damaged or cracked, just a good look at the cylinder walls is the best you can do without pulling the engine and sending it out for testing. I will say that the blocks in these cars seem to hold up very well. The head gasket is the weak point, and the head itself will warp/crack if it gets hot enough.
Could this be the same for a 2017 second gen Cruze? 1.4L
I believe they changed slightly in 2016. Overall the engines are similar, but I just checked and the head gaskets have different part numbers between those two years.
How did you fix the leak internally? Did the machine shop fixed it or was it a seal?
I had to scrap that head and find a replacement at a salvage yard. It was a crack and was not repairable.
Do you have to remove anything on the turbo if you are just having to replace with the head gasket?
No, you can remove the turbo as a unit just to get it out of the way.
I bought a new cylinder head and dropped it in. The lobs are facing outward not pressing down on there lifters. The pistons are top center but the car won’t start it just keeps spinning what did I do wrong?
Not sure. There are so many things it could be. For starts you should check compression (this should show you if your timing isn't right), make sure you plugged in your coil pack, and make sure your injectors are plugged in. Engines need fuel, air, spark, and compression. If one is wrong, it won't run. Hopefully you were able to figure it out!
How long does this take my car has been in the shop for a month and all they keep saying is it got so hot the value cover blew now they have to fix that and my head gasket
It's really hard to say, especially with the parts shortages, shipping delays, etc. The actual work can be done in under a day, but overall it took me a couple weeks because I had to order parts and take the head to the machine shop. And yes, the valve cover failure is common in these cars as well. I ended up having to replace mine once I had it back together.
Will this work for a 2012 Chevrolet Volt 1.4L ??
I don't think they are exactly the same engine. Although the same size, the 1.4 in the Cruze is turbocharged. Maybe someone else can step in and tell us if they are the same engine? My quick research says the Volt engine is a LUU while the Cruze is a LUJ/LUV.
Hi. This might be a little more complex to answer but I have an odd question. At 26lb torque and 180 degree. What overall torque would you say it should be or nearly be? I’m asking for someone else as they did this job but the torque wrench used seems iffy. Hard to read or understand the reading. Or also hard to understand the setting. The guy told me that you seemed to struggle more then he did when doing the 180 degree turn. Please anything works even a rough estimate.
Maybe I'm just a wimp! :-) You can't really tell the final torque, because these bolts stretch when you tighten them. I wish there was a more definitive answer, but that's how it goes with head bolts!
I got the caps off, but please answer this question. When I pulled the head off there was 2 valves open. They was on the same cylinder and same side, is this normal. Please let me know. I wished I had a way to post a picture. Thank you for your reply.
Glad you got them off. Yes, it's normal. Cylinder 1's valves should all be closed at TDC, but the others won't be so it's normal for a pair of valves to be open - either exhaust or intake valves.
thanks. i like ur style
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
I do have a ? Did u have to loosen the timing chain to remove it cause it seem the head was only attached by bolts
Yes, there is a timing chain tensioner that needs to be pushed back to relieve the tension. I show how to remove the cap, pull the tensioner back, and install a pin to keep the tension off the chain while removing the head.
I have a question: So the timing chain tensioner plug for me is either seized, or something is holding it, because I tried to loosen it with a breaker bar and impact wrench, but it will. not. budge. Is there somehow a way that the plug is being held in place? I know there's no way it's supposed to be that tight.
Edit* I got it off: I just used the Impact Drill and wrench at the same time!
Good deal! Yeah, some of them are on tight and can strip out. I've had to get ahold of them with vice grips to turn them out before. Not sure why some are so tight! Must have been the "new guy" at the factory!
Great video!!
Thanks for watching!
yes or the value of the chevrolet aveo sonic engine oil pressure how many bar
I don't understand the question. This is a Chevy Cruze.
I am having trouble with 3 head bolts that won't come out i even tried bolt exters what can I do need your help
If they are stripped and extractors aren't working, you may need to take it to a shop. Sometimes they can weld a new head onto the bolt to get it out. That's a bad situation to be in... make sure the socket you're using is a nice, tight fit before reefing on them. Hope you were able to get them out!
First of all thanks for sharing your videos, I have a 0211 Chevy Cruze 1.8 anyway engine is mixing antifreeze and oil in coolant depositor but I noticed no smoke coming out of exhaust pip it's coming out clean ,so I'm beginning to think it's not a cracked block or blown head gasket, what do you think?🤔
That's a tough one. Always hard to diagnose something like that. It is possible for a head gasket to fail in such a way that it doesn't burn the coolant so there is no smoke in the exhaust. Mine was a pretty extreme case with a cracked head. I wouldn't rule out a head gasket yet, but since it is misfiring, I'd definitely run a compression test next. However, oil in the coolant is not good. I recently had a Cruze come in with coolant in the oil. I tore it down and didn't find any cracks in the head or block. It was low on compression from being overheated, so I honed the cylinders, put some new rings on it, replaced the head gasket, and it ran fine since.
Of course, these were all 1.4's. The 1.8 is a different animal and I haven't ever had a bad head gasket on that engine before. But yeah, I'd check compression next and go from there. Good luck to you!
Very good video Sir. What is the name of that pin kit to hold the camshaft?
I just call it a "timing tool set". Here's the link to the exact one I'm using in the video:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VGCR3GV
Thanks for watching!
Good job my friend
Thanks for watching!
Does this apply to the 1.5 Malibu 2017
No, that one will be a bit different.
Did you not check engine block deck clearance as well? I'm in the middle of this myself and the cylinder head checks out clearance wise but my block deck allows .05mm through.
Interesting... my block measured within spec. Only the head was off. I did quite a few of these back in the day and never had a block measure bad. The head seems to be the weak spot. I don't remember the specs off-hand, but hopefully yours is OK!
do you NEED the pins that you bought on amazon/ebay the ones that hold the internal engine parts
Yes, you will absolutely need the timing tools. You couple probably fabricate the pins to hold the crank and timing chain tensioner, but the timing set is very specific to the engine.
Is there a way to do it without using one of the pins? The top bolt stripped for me and i can put the small pin in for the tensioner plug
Ran into the same problem and curious as well! Would love a reply with some help.
I've never tried. Were you able to make it work?
where did you get the service manual that you used for this?
I have a mechanic friend that was able to get me the procedure for this job. The Haynes manual should get you all the same information.