Hi Keith, Welcome to the Fuji club. Yes indeed there is definitely a learning curve with any new camera, not to mention a new system. When I head out with a new unit I take a few snaps around my home, inside and outside, something very familiar...even some shots of the pups running about. On my GFX cameras I have one button setup for back button focus, very handy. I prefer the histogram to be displayed in the view at all times. One thing you will find is the exposure compensation button is deactivated in manual mode. Most importantly is finding what works for you and thats part of the excitement of having a new tool....the discovery of what you can achieve. All the best Charlie
Hi Keith, the first thing I always do when l’m about to buy a new camera is download the manual for that camera, that way you get a good idea if the camera is really what I through I needed !😅
Usually it is the default on a new camera, but I first check that the camera is set to NOT release the shutter if no memory card is in the camera! Then I check camera will format, read, & write to the memory card slot(s) in both stills & video, all buttons & wheels work to do something (and thus not defective switch or wheel), and nothing rattles when camera is shaken. Finally check any IBIS seems to be working. Then, just as @hedydd2 does, I try to set up wheels and buttons to as closely as possible mimic the positions & functions of wheels and buttons on any other camera body I use regularly (in my case, only 1 other). Then off to make some photographs with attention to try different focusing modes and see at what point highlights are blown out, how far underexposed is still usable, and how long a shutter speed is usable handheld with IBIS versus IBIS + optical stabilization versus optical stabilization alone.
My plan for my Z8 (which I was lucky enough to get last Friday) was to rush out to Dartmoor and take landscape photographs. However, as is typical with luck when getting a new camera it's been bright blue skies and sunny for a week! Not to worry, I did get a rare opportunity to photograph a stadium gig (Muse) in Plymouth on Saturday so the Z8 got a bit of a baptism of fire!
On the very rare occasions that i get a new camera, i first use it for a liitle while at all defaults. That lets me find what's not working for me so i can start to make changes that work for me, rather than for someone else.
Yes - I've left all the image quality settings at default for the moment - that's the sort of stuff I wait until I feel I know what difference they make.
Hi Keith. Congrats to you for adquiring the 100s. I use mine with a few custom settings. I have 4 settings recorded to the C wheel: C1 was set to iso 100; 2 second delay shutter button; 5400 Kevin WB; classic chrome film simulation & mecanic curtain; C2 is for infrared shots: iso 200; Fuji Acros Red film simulation; mechanic curtain; 2 second delay shutter button; 2200 kelvin WB; whereas C3 & C4 replicates the C1 & C2 settings with only one change: electronic curtain. Since I always shoot with my 4 Nikon tilt&shift lenses, I have set to manual focusing with focus peak to red color. And I use a hoodman loupe to put at the LCD back at the camera to magnify the focus peak and focus more precisely. That is useful to get accurate focus and down tilt to get an extended DOF, especially with my 24 & 45 mm lenses. Finally, the function I use most is the “voice memo” to record up to 30 seconds audio, which allows me to record the amount of shift and tilt, especially, if I Bracket the tilt , to get the maximum DOF when applying Downtilt. Hope it helps. Hugs
@@jefffenske1958 basically, I shoot mechanic curtains for my shots. But, there are times when strong wind blows and it can ruin your pictures so, on that occasions I shoot electonic curtain. Be advised that Ibis must be turned off when shooting with tripod, as I always do.
@@pedroparado60 I don't understand why the electronic curtain helps in a strong wind. Hmmm? I think I've read or heard that some use the electronic curtain to open the shutter and the mechanical afterward to not jar the camera. But I don't understand why the mechanical shutter is still used to close the shutter (2nd curtain?). I haven't heard why the mechanical shutter would be better for anything when shooting stills. Is there a disadvantage of shooting everything with electronic only? Fuji's FAQ page says the IBIS can be left on, and the camera will shut IBIS off automatically when it detects it's on a tripod. I just heard a pro say he's always leaving it on and isn't seeing any problems. In a strong wind, if there is movement while being on the tripod it may engage and help steady the shot. The FAQ also says to leave IBIS on when shooting on a monopod.
@@jefffenske1958 I speak from my experience only. I have found that when the 100s is mounted on a telephoto lens, suxh as my Nikon 80-200 mm f2.8 & 300 mm f4 D-lenses, and both on a tripod, the pictures come out much sharper with electronic shutter than mechanical one. And no matter what the manual might say, again, according to what I have seen with and without ibis at this scenario, the pictures come out blurry when the ibis is not turned off before.
Hi Keith, First thing I do is a full reset in case I've been sold a return or something that's been demonstrated and someone's had a play. Next, I set the file type to raw (I have no idea why manufacturers think I'd be impressed if I could fit 9000 pictures on a 32gb card). Then I assign my preferred shutter/aperture dial layout. Finally, run out into the garden and take a picture of the bird table so I can blow it up to 400% in Lightroom. That coffee cup has a high c of g and is making me very nervous. Congratulations on your new camera :)
Thanks - I do check that the camera is asking me for the time/language etc. This was where I carelessly let the firmware update happen ;-) If that coffee cup concerns you, it's best that only a small part of my office is shown in the videos ;-)
Yes for a similar coverage with the longer focal length. But not with the same focal length as with the adapted lenses I'm using. DOF is the same just a wider angle of view.
New camera, especially a new camera system or brand, first think I do is set the dials and buttons to work in similar ways and directions to other cameras I use. The first two weeks of use tend to be a bit of a fiddle while things are fine tuned to the way I prefer them to work, including any customisable Quick menus and one or two Custom memories. I seldom use manual mode and like to experiment with exposure area priority settings for A, P and S auto exposure priority modes. I’ve several different brands and models of cameras, some used more than others and some used purely for pleasure and I love the learning experience and the challenge of using and changing to different systems every now and again but reasonably regularly. The process of using a camera is, rightly or wrongly, almost as important to me as the resultant image.
Thanks - I try not to swap too much from my old system right away, since I find the changes make me think much more about what's important, what's new and what's habit. I guess it comes partly from all the printer testing I do, where I try and treat each new one as different. That said, some aspects will drift towards what I'm comfortable with - a lot depends on what you photograph and as you say, your approach to photography.
Yes🙄 I've also made silly beginner mistakes with a new camera😀 i always shoot in manual mode when first learning a new camera or a new lens for that matter, i just find it easier to set the iso, shutter speed and aperture and focus manually. It simply makes myself understand the layout so much more quickly.
Hi Keith. Fuji cameras are extremely customizable as you have discovered. One other thing I have enjoyed with my GFX100S is the SmallRig L-plate, and grip extender. I use my GFX100S on a tripod much of the time and with the built in Arch Swiss dovetail, the grip comes in quite handy. Not to mention the camera fits my hands a little better with the grip on as well as offering a modest degree of protection to the base of the camera. And unlike Fuji's own accessory plate, the SmallRig plate has an opening for the battery compartment so you basically never need to remove the grip. I don't tend to use the vertical portion of the L plate, but it easily removes leaving just a nice baseplate on the GFX100S body with the built-in Arch-Swiss capability.
The SmallRig L-bracket isn't being manufactured anymore for some reason, disappointedly. Really Right Stuff isn't making theirs yet. Apparently they can't get parts.
I've got the Rogeti L bracket - I showed it on one of my earlier GFX videos (before I got one myself). I'll have a more detailed look at it at some point. rogeti.com/products/l-bracket-for-fujifilm-gfx-100s
@@KeithCooper A reviewer in the DPReview forum posted "Thoughts on the Rogeti GFX100S L Bracket." He says the Rogeti can't be used with Really Right Stuff lever clamps, which I have on my ball head. Also, he and a commenter elsewhere says it digs into the hand while handholding too, but you haven't mentioned that as a problem, and you do handhold it. I did see your video on it. Thanks! I've never seen bubble levels on a L-bracket before. That's pretty amazing. The only other option that I can find now is the Kirk plate; though, Really Right Stuff has a two piece version that bolts together, so I don't know how stout it is, not being made from one piece. I don't know why RRS can't get parts to make a one-piece L-bracket. Apparently, some places haven't recovered from Covid yet??
@Keith Cooper Really Right Stuff's gear is impeccable, usually perfect, but expensive too. I've never had to look anywhere else for an L-plate until now. It's nice to see that other companies are producing quality products too. Thankfully, Amazon seems to have changed their mind on ending DPReview and completely removing the archives, or I wouldn't know that the Rogeti L-bracket can't work with my RRS ball head. It would be nice if they made a statement stating what their plans are with DPReview now, instead of leaving us hanging, wondering.
I personally used Darrell Young's book for the Olympus EM1 MkII as a starting point as he explains what each setting does and why he chooses the settings he does. Good place to start for me. Not sure if he does the same for the Fuji GFX100S.
The price of the 50 is a great bargain, for sure! It could be awhile before the 100S' replacement comes out. It's already so full featured and cutting edge. What would they do to improve it? They just had Fujikina and the x-summit, and didn't announce anything GFX.
Curious to know if you’ve tried the Cambo adapters before. Tin House studio’s introduced me to the Cambo Actus and found it to be a very compelling idea, but would love to see your opinion as an architectural photographer
From a wanting to play with kit POV, love to have a go with one... I was unable to get anything to review/test for when I was writing the tilt/shift lens book From a practical [and definitely expense] POV it does nothing particularly special for architectural work - The Actar lenses have a good image circle, so I might get more coverage - but no way could I afford a set-up I'd have more use for one for some types of studio work, but I don't have a large studio. From a what can you do angle... ;-) I made an adapter for that 5x4 MPP sitting on my desk in the videos www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-mpp-view-camera-adapter/
I have been wondering just what coverage one could get, combining maximum shift side to side (three or five images), up and down (3 or five images), same again on each diagonal, and then stitching them all together in Ps. I was inspired by your video sponsored by ark Cameras and BenQ, and you showed a photo made with a 45 degree shift. I know that your new toy won't often need to, but with my S1R, I can shoot high res and then combine all the images for a lot of pixels. A lot. And I don't think your GFX will get as many (unless it too does high res).
The GFX does 400MP - BUT the combination options are not as flexible as the S1R, which I tested in 2019 [written article only] Full shift with the lenses I've got will show clear vignetting in the corners [I've videos looking at this]
Interesting point is made here: that max shift can no longer be used to shoot multiple images to then stitch in post to get a bigger image, because of vignetting at full shift. The BEAUTY of the GFX is that we can get the same result with just one click and no stitching in post. I would think the coverage would be fairly similar. And we can see and compose the bigger image in the viewfinder while shooting, instead of having to estimate the composition. And the GFX has 16:9 and 65:24 image size viewfinder options, for those who want to shoot panos. Perhaps the stitching technique can still be used with less than full shift to get the bigger image.
@@jefffenske1958 The S1R has those shapes too, but I don't see the point of them. The GFX still has shift available, so it doesn't get the whole possible area in one click.
@@KeithCooper The vignetting can be managed, I think, using Capture One and its LCC feature. It would require doubling the number of clicks though. It might be worth looking into though, if the vignetting is bothersome. It also corrects some other nasties including chromatic aberration and dust spots.
It does indeed work well - although I have a suspicion that there may be a slight misalignment of mine showing in strongly shifted views along just one edge. I didn't need the full field of view of the 24 on the full 33x44 frame on some of the shots. This is one reason I'm keen to see the performance of the Fuji 30mm T/S when I get to try it It does depend on the subject as well - using the wider view, closer, dives a quite different perspective. Choices were based on the subjects and lack of 30mm tilt/shift ;-)
JPEGs only instead of raw plus jpeg been there done that. Beware of out of the box camera manufacturers default setups. JPEGs only, low resolution etc. Why on earth do manufacturers cripple their cameras out of the box. Now I check resolution file size and type before using any new camera.
I did wonder about this and realised that all my previous GFX100S camera tests were with loan cameras, which seemed to have a 'good' set of defaults enabled...
Can you explain to me how in-camera cropping is beter than cropping in post? I just don't get it. I thoght I did, a decade or so ago, when I heard Nikon has it and Canon does not. And then I came to believe that, if I want an APS-C sized image from my 5Ds, I can crop pixels equivalent to 24mmx18 in post. Not only that, but I don't have to chose the center of the larger sensor, I can teke them from anywhere in the imaged area. If course, I can also crop aby size and shape at aoo, 17.3x13, or 3x1. In your case, I'd start by cropping the offending pixels off the end. Maybe, I'd make a mask or a mark to help framing using the LCD.
It's all about what I see in the viewfinder - I could crop afterwards of course, but it's extra work, if I know the 35mm cropped view is what I want. If I'm using the crop mode it's because it's what makes sense for the images and the client... Extra work is fine if I'm being paid for it...
I can relate too. I shot a roll of film once, but when the film advanced beyond 38 frames, I suddenly discovered I hadn't shot any film at all. That was a shocker, and a mistake I learned from.
Yes, my film one occurred when I was on a small boat in the Persian Gulf during a storm at sunrise - I still have vague recollections of some of the stunning shots I 'should have' got ;-)
![Fuji GFX100S adapted lens testing - tilt/shift [Canon TS-E90] and lenses from the 70's.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZzkKFDYnPhc/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Keith, Welcome to the Fuji club. Yes indeed there is definitely a learning curve with any new camera, not to mention a new system. When I head out with a new unit I take a few snaps around my home, inside and outside, something very familiar...even some shots of the pups running about. On my GFX cameras I have one button setup for back button focus, very handy. I prefer the histogram to be displayed in the view at all times. One thing you will find is the exposure compensation button is deactivated in manual mode. Most importantly is finding what works for you and thats part of the excitement of having a new tool....the discovery of what you can achieve. All the best Charlie
Thanks!
Hi Keith, the first thing I always do when l’m about to buy a new camera is download the manual for that camera, that way you get a good idea if the camera is really what I through I needed !😅
Yes - I read it through first when Fuji loaned me one for some testing at the end of last year. It feels a bit different when it's your own though!
Usually it is the default on a new camera, but I first check that the camera is set to NOT release the shutter if no memory card is in the camera! Then I check camera will format, read, & write to the memory card slot(s) in both stills & video, all buttons & wheels work to do something (and thus not defective switch or wheel), and nothing rattles when camera is shaken. Finally check any IBIS seems to be working.
Then, just as @hedydd2 does, I try to set up wheels and buttons to as closely as possible mimic the positions & functions of wheels and buttons on any other camera body I use regularly (in my case, only 1 other). Then off to make some photographs with attention to try different focusing modes and see at what point highlights are blown out, how far underexposed is still usable, and how long a shutter speed is usable handheld with IBIS versus IBIS + optical stabilization versus optical stabilization alone.
Yes - sometimes I wish I could be that thorough ;-)
My plan for my Z8 (which I was lucky enough to get last Friday) was to rush out to Dartmoor and take landscape photographs. However, as is typical with luck when getting a new camera it's been bright blue skies and sunny for a week! Not to worry, I did get a rare opportunity to photograph a stadium gig (Muse) in Plymouth on Saturday so the Z8 got a bit of a baptism of fire!
Yes - I get rain or clear blue sky ;-)
On the very rare occasions that i get a new camera, i first use it for a liitle while at all defaults. That lets me find what's not working for me so i can start to make changes that work for me, rather than for someone else.
Yes - I've left all the image quality settings at default for the moment - that's the sort of stuff I wait until I feel I know what difference they make.
Hi Keith. Congrats to you for adquiring the 100s. I use mine with a few custom settings. I have 4 settings recorded to the C wheel: C1 was set to iso 100; 2 second delay shutter button; 5400 Kevin WB; classic chrome film simulation & mecanic curtain; C2 is for infrared shots: iso 200; Fuji Acros Red film simulation; mechanic curtain; 2 second delay shutter button; 2200 kelvin WB; whereas C3 & C4 replicates the C1 & C2 settings with only one change: electronic curtain. Since I always shoot with my 4 Nikon tilt&shift lenses, I have set to manual focusing with focus peak to red color. And I use a hoodman loupe to put at the LCD back at the camera to magnify the focus peak and focus more precisely. That is useful to get accurate focus and down tilt to get an extended DOF, especially with my 24 & 45 mm lenses. Finally, the function I use most is the “voice memo” to record up to 30 seconds audio, which allows me to record the amount of shift and tilt, especially, if I Bracket the tilt , to get the maximum DOF when applying Downtilt. Hope it helps. Hugs
Thanks - good to know, although the film settings will though [I suspect] receive no significant usage from myself ;-)
Pedro, interesting use of the voice memo! What do you use the mechanical shutter curtain for, and what do you use the electronic curtain for? Thanks.
@@jefffenske1958 basically, I shoot mechanic curtains for my shots. But, there are times when strong wind blows and it can ruin your pictures so, on that occasions I shoot electonic curtain. Be advised that Ibis must be turned off when shooting with tripod, as I always do.
@@pedroparado60 I don't understand why the electronic curtain helps in a strong wind. Hmmm? I think I've read or heard that some use the electronic curtain to open the shutter and the mechanical afterward to not jar the camera. But I don't understand why the mechanical shutter is still used to close the shutter (2nd curtain?). I haven't heard why the mechanical shutter would be better for anything when shooting stills. Is there a disadvantage of shooting everything with electronic only?
Fuji's FAQ page says the IBIS can be left on, and the camera will shut IBIS off automatically when it detects it's on a tripod. I just heard a pro say he's always leaving it on and isn't seeing any problems. In a strong wind, if there is movement while being on the tripod it may engage and help steady the shot.
The FAQ also says to leave IBIS on when shooting on a monopod.
@@jefffenske1958 I speak from my experience only. I have found that when the 100s is mounted on a telephoto lens, suxh as my Nikon 80-200 mm f2.8 & 300 mm f4 D-lenses, and both on a tripod, the pictures come out much sharper with electronic shutter than mechanical one. And no matter what the manual might say, again, according to what I have seen with and without ibis at this scenario, the pictures come out blurry when the ibis is not turned off before.
Hi Keith,
First thing I do is a full reset in case I've been sold a return or something that's been demonstrated and someone's had a play.
Next, I set the file type to raw (I have no idea why manufacturers think I'd be impressed if I could fit 9000 pictures on a 32gb card).
Then I assign my preferred shutter/aperture dial layout.
Finally, run out into the garden and take a picture of the bird table so I can blow it up to 400% in Lightroom.
That coffee cup has a high c of g and is making me very nervous. Congratulations on your new camera :)
Thanks - I do check that the camera is asking me for the time/language etc. This was where I carelessly let the firmware update happen ;-)
If that coffee cup concerns you, it's best that only a small part of my office is shown in the videos ;-)
@@KeithCooper Clutter is my middle name. It was the proximity to your left elbow as you entered Magnus Pyke mode that had me really worried 🤣
What I had to keep reminding myself was the shallow depth of field is so different on the bigger sensor, so you have to adjust from the full frame
Yes for a similar coverage with the longer focal length.
But not with the same focal length as with the adapted lenses I'm using. DOF is the same just a wider angle of view.
New camera, especially a new camera system or brand, first think I do is set the dials and buttons to work in similar ways and directions to other cameras I use. The first two weeks of use tend to be a bit of a fiddle while things are fine tuned to the way I prefer them to work, including any customisable Quick menus and one or two Custom memories.
I seldom use manual mode and like to experiment with exposure area priority settings for A, P and S auto exposure priority modes. I’ve several different brands and models of cameras, some used more than others and some used purely for pleasure and I love the learning experience and the challenge of using and changing to different systems every now and again but reasonably regularly. The process of using a camera is, rightly or wrongly, almost as important to me as the resultant image.
Thanks - I try not to swap too much from my old system right away, since I find the changes make me think much more about what's important, what's new and what's habit. I guess it comes partly from all the printer testing I do, where I try and treat each new one as different. That said, some aspects will drift towards what I'm comfortable with - a lot depends on what you photograph and as you say, your approach to photography.
Yes🙄 I've also made silly beginner mistakes with a new camera😀
i always shoot in manual mode when first learning a new camera or a new lens for that matter, i just find it easier to set the iso, shutter speed and aperture and focus manually. It simply makes myself understand the layout so much more quickly.
Yes, I never got round to fine tuning the AF on any of my previous cameras for example.
Hi Keith. Fuji cameras are extremely customizable as you have discovered. One other thing I have enjoyed with my GFX100S is the SmallRig L-plate, and grip extender. I use my GFX100S on a tripod much of the time and with the built in Arch Swiss dovetail, the grip comes in quite handy. Not to mention the camera fits my hands a little better with the grip on as well as offering a modest degree of protection to the base of the camera. And unlike Fuji's own accessory plate, the SmallRig plate has an opening for the battery compartment so you basically never need to remove the grip. I don't tend to use the vertical portion of the L plate, but it easily removes leaving just a nice baseplate on the GFX100S body with the built-in Arch-Swiss capability.
The SmallRig L-bracket isn't being manufactured anymore for some reason, disappointedly. Really Right Stuff isn't making theirs yet. Apparently they can't get parts.
I've got the Rogeti L bracket - I showed it on one of my earlier GFX videos (before I got one myself). I'll have a more detailed look at it at some point.
rogeti.com/products/l-bracket-for-fujifilm-gfx-100s
@@KeithCooper A reviewer in the DPReview forum posted "Thoughts on the Rogeti GFX100S L Bracket." He says the Rogeti can't be used with Really Right Stuff lever clamps, which I have on my ball head. Also, he and a commenter elsewhere says it digs into the hand while handholding too, but you haven't mentioned that as a problem, and you do handhold it. I did see your video on it. Thanks!
I've never seen bubble levels on a L-bracket before. That's pretty amazing.
The only other option that I can find now is the Kirk plate; though, Really Right Stuff has a two piece version that bolts together, so I don't know how stout it is, not being made from one piece. I don't know why RRS can't get parts to make a one-piece L-bracket. Apparently, some places haven't recovered from Covid yet??
I guess the comfort thing is partly hand size...
I've never seen any RRS kit at all, so don't know their products at all.
@Keith Cooper Really Right Stuff's gear is impeccable, usually perfect, but expensive too. I've never had to look anywhere else for an L-plate until now. It's nice to see that other companies are producing quality products too. Thankfully, Amazon seems to have changed their mind on ending DPReview and completely removing the archives, or I wouldn't know that the Rogeti L-bracket can't work with my RRS ball head. It would be nice if they made a statement stating what their plans are with DPReview now, instead of leaving us hanging, wondering.
Keith, the first thing I always do on a new camera is to turn off any sound or flashing lights!
Yes - this one is quiet by default it seems ;-)
I personally used Darrell Young's book for the Olympus EM1 MkII as a starting point as he explains what each setting does and why he chooses the settings he does. Good place to start for me.
Not sure if he does the same for the Fuji GFX100S.
I've several guides, but as you'd expect, given all the reviews I do, I want to experiment ;-)
will probably buy one when the next model comes out and its affordable the 50 with lens is a tempting bargain at 3200
Yes - it was the work related benefits which pushed me a bit extra.
The price of the 50 is a great bargain, for sure! It could be awhile before the 100S' replacement comes out. It's already so full featured and cutting edge. What would they do to improve it? They just had Fujikina and the x-summit, and didn't announce anything GFX.
Curious to know if you’ve tried the Cambo adapters before. Tin House studio’s introduced me to the Cambo Actus and found it to be a very compelling idea, but would love to see your opinion as an architectural photographer
From a wanting to play with kit POV, love to have a go with one... I was unable to get anything to review/test for when I was writing the tilt/shift lens book
From a practical [and definitely expense] POV it does nothing particularly special for architectural work - The Actar lenses have a good image circle, so I might get more coverage - but no way could I afford a set-up
I'd have more use for one for some types of studio work, but I don't have a large studio.
From a what can you do angle... ;-)
I made an adapter for that 5x4 MPP sitting on my desk in the videos
www.northlight-images.co.uk/canon-mpp-view-camera-adapter/
Thank you for another great video, I have a quick question; which EF to GFX adapter are you using?
A Fotodiox one
@@KeithCooper THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! LOVE ALL OF YOUR VIDEOS!!!!!
I have been wondering just what coverage one could get, combining maximum shift side to side (three or five images), up and down (3 or five images), same again on each diagonal, and then stitching them all together in Ps. I was inspired by your video sponsored by ark Cameras and BenQ, and you showed a photo made with a 45 degree shift.
I know that your new toy won't often need to, but with my S1R, I can shoot high res and then combine all the images for a lot of pixels. A lot. And I don't think your GFX will get as many (unless it too does high res).
The GFX does 400MP - BUT the combination options are not as flexible as the S1R, which I tested in 2019 [written article only]
Full shift with the lenses I've got will show clear vignetting in the corners [I've videos looking at this]
Interesting point is made here: that max shift can no longer be used to shoot multiple images to then stitch in post to get a bigger image, because of vignetting at full shift. The BEAUTY of the GFX is that we can get the same result with just one click and no stitching in post. I would think the coverage would be fairly similar. And we can see and compose the bigger image in the viewfinder while shooting, instead of having to estimate the composition.
And the GFX has 16:9 and 65:24 image size viewfinder options, for those who want to shoot panos.
Perhaps the stitching technique can still be used with less than full shift to get the bigger image.
@@jefffenske1958 The S1R has those shapes too, but I don't see the point of them.
The GFX still has shift available, so it doesn't get the whole possible area in one click.
@@KeithCooper The vignetting can be managed, I think, using Capture One and its LCC feature. It would require doubling the number of clicks though.
It might be worth looking into though, if the vignetting is bothersome. It also corrects some other nasties including chromatic aberration and dust spots.
Yes - you do need shift, but it's limited by the size of the lens image circle - simple to see on some graph paper with a compass
The 24 tse does work on the camera in normal mode Why 35 mm setting Are the results beter than?
It does indeed work well - although I have a suspicion that there may be a slight misalignment of mine showing in strongly shifted views along just one edge.
I didn't need the full field of view of the 24 on the full 33x44 frame on some of the shots.
This is one reason I'm keen to see the performance of the Fuji 30mm T/S when I get to try it
It does depend on the subject as well - using the wider view, closer, dives a quite different perspective.
Choices were based on the subjects and lack of 30mm tilt/shift ;-)
JPEGs only instead of raw plus jpeg been there done that. Beware of out of the box camera manufacturers default setups. JPEGs only, low resolution etc. Why on earth do manufacturers cripple their cameras out of the box. Now I check resolution file size and type before using any new camera.
I did wonder about this and realised that all my previous GFX100S camera tests were with loan cameras, which seemed to have a 'good' set of defaults enabled...
Can you explain to me how in-camera cropping is beter than cropping in post? I just don't get it. I thoght I did, a decade or so ago, when I heard Nikon has it and Canon does not.
And then I came to believe that, if I want an APS-C sized image from my 5Ds, I can crop pixels equivalent to 24mmx18 in post. Not only that, but I don't have to chose the center of the larger sensor, I can teke them from anywhere in the imaged area.
If course, I can also crop aby size and shape at aoo, 17.3x13, or 3x1.
In your case, I'd start by cropping the offending pixels off the end. Maybe, I'd make a mask or a mark to help framing using the LCD.
It's all about what I see in the viewfinder - I could crop afterwards of course, but it's extra work, if I know the 35mm cropped view is what I want.
If I'm using the crop mode it's because it's what makes sense for the images and the client...
Extra work is fine if I'm being paid for it...
🤣jpeg only yep I have done that!
I can relate too. I shot a roll of film once, but when the film advanced beyond 38 frames, I suddenly discovered I hadn't shot any film at all. That was a shocker, and a mistake I learned from.
Yes, my film one occurred when I was on a small boat in the Persian Gulf during a storm at sunrise - I still have vague recollections of some of the stunning shots I 'should have' got ;-)