Thank you. The Arca Swiss head is my favorite so far. I was just traveling out of the country and used a ball head (easier to travel with) and realized how much nicer the geared head is. It's a bit pricey but it is like a work art.
Thanks, you've given me the confidence to try again-was getting quite a lot of ghosting, most likely by no selecting enough focus points and possible editing each frame differently before stacking.
You're welcome and thank you for the kind words. I would recommend taking extra focus points. It is very easy to not use an image for the stack versus trying to go back and get more images. Editing all of the images exactly the same (this includes white balance) is really important and makes stacking the images much easier.
Thank you! your work helped us almost 2 years ago when we bought this camera there was very little info about it, your explanations are very helpful. in advance, sorry for the inaccuracy, I'm just not a native English speaker).
Awesome information! Was trying to figure out the focus bracketing and you explained it great! Thank you! Mostly do product photography so that’ll be handy having it done auto/manual through the camera. Also what tripod head are you using!? Would love to use one of those!
Thank you and I am glad it was helpful. The Auto/Manual focus bracketing system should work great for product photography. My tripod is a Really Right Stuff Versa M2 Series 2 with 4 section long legs. I bought it from either B&H or Adorama. The leveling base is the Really Right Stuff TA-2U-LC. The head is an Arca Swiss C1 Cube. It is quite expensive but it works amazing and looks like a work of art. Eric
Great explanatory video on focus stacking with the GFX100s. Do you ever use electronic shutter or shutter cable release ? Which of the 3 methods do you prefer ? Love your set-up. Let us know more about your tripod, leveling base, tripod head etc., l-brackett (for us gear-heads). Nice work. Dirk
Dirk, thank you. I use the mechanical shutter almost exclusively because the electronic shutter does not work as well for long exposures. Also you can not use Bulb mode with the electronic shutter. I have an electronic shutter release but most of the time I forget to set it up so I just set the self timer set to 2 seconds. My tripod is a Really Right Stuff Versa MK2 Tripod with 4 sections, the long one. It is a great tripod but kinda heavy and a bit difficult to travel with but it has made several overseas trips. The leveling base is the Really Right Stuff TA-2U-LC. If you never used a leveling base I highly recommend getting one. They make setting up super easy and quick especially if you are looking at shooting a pano. For head I have a Arca-Swiss C1 Cube. It is a gear tripod head. Once again, if you have never used one I highly recommend trying a geared head. They force you to slow down and take your time composing the scene. Additionally, they allow you to make very fine carefully adjustment to your composition so you can get it just right. Once again thank you. Eric
Sorry I forgot to answer your question about which method I prefer. Personally, I like the Fuji's Focus Bracketing system on manual. It is quite easy to use. If you are shooting at night all you need to do is light up the area close to you in order to set the closest focus point. The camera will figure out the rest. Eric
A good movie. However, it has two drawbacks. First of all, when the parameters are set on the camera, they are the most important and Erik's face should not be visible. Three methods of obtaining sharp photos were compared. In my opinion, it was necessary to merge the photos three times and compare the final photos obtained. Regards, Mirek.
Great video Eric, thanks for sharing. I have GFX + GF 63mm lens, which is an external focus lens (the field of view can change quite a bit depending on where in a scene I've selected to focus). May I ask; with such a lens, how do you go about composing and then selecting the focal points so the end result of stacked images retain the desired composition? The 63mm seems to have quite a 'zoom' effect through its focal range, especially apparent when stacking a subject that's close-up. Many thanks in advance! Andrew
Unfortunately the Fuji GF lens have quite a bit of focus breathing. I would suggest that you figure out which focus position is zoomed in the most and use that for composing. To start the stack images I would start at the closest focus point. Fortunately the focus stacking software compensates for the focus breathing. Hopefully this helps. Eric
A really good video Eric, thank you. My GFX100s does not appear to work in the same way as yours when using the Auto method. I notice you have your camera in Manual (on the toggle near the viewfinder) and that you can tap the screen to focus on Point A and Point B. Mine does not allow this function, I have to manually focus (rather than tap the screen). Do you have any idea why this may be? I’ve attempted it in Single, Continuous and Manual.
It's a setting you can setup in the menus. Go to the SET UP menu and select BUTTON/DIAL SETTING, TOUCH SCREEN SETTING, and make sure TOUCH SCREEN SETTING is set to ON for the camera. At least this is how it appears to work on my camera.
I was wondering if you have any experience using "Auto Focus Bracketing" in the macro world ? Using a GF 120 macro with an extension tube for example...1:1 in "usb tether mode shooting auto" mode...
I think all the people are preferring Fujifilm. I shall have to think now. These days whenever I search UA-cam I only came across only Fujifilm, only Fujifilm, only Fujifilm cameras by some renowned photographer whose names I used to get below the pictures in travel magazines. Had I but known about this camera earlier I would have thought the other way round.
Thank you for the kind words. I am using a Really Right Stuff Versa MK Series 2 tripod, the 4 section long version. I also have a Really Right Stuff TA-2U leveling base. For the head I am using a Arca-Swiss Cube C1 geared head. The setup is a bit pricey but it works extremely well and has proven to be fairly rugged. Note, I always take the head off the tripod and carry it my pack while hiking because it is very expensive and I don't want to damage it. Eric
@@EricGebhard Hi Eric, if you still have the stack images try turning the blur way down since it was completely still when you made the images. I think that would clean up around the cactus needles.
Hi. Can you confirm that focus points A and B remain the same when the series is repeated? This can be achieved with a focus rail, but I am looking for a faster way to always cover the same focus area using bracketing. I am currently using a Canon R5, but this does not offer an A B setting.
The tripod head I am using is an Arca Swiss Cube C1. It is a really nice piece of gear and I highly recommend it. Michael Strickland did a nice review of it www.michaelstricklandimages.com/blog/2016/10/5/gear-review-arca-swiss-cube-c1. On the camera I am using a Really Right Stuff L bracket. I have used RRS L brackets on just about every camera I have owned. They are a bit expensive but fit the camera perfect and are very solid. Hope this helps.
Thank you. The file that I get out of HeliconFocus is a TIFF and about he same size as each of the individual files that I used for stacking. Once, I bring it into Photoshop then I typically have to save it as a Large Document due to Photoshops file size restriction.
I use manual mode about 99% of the time. For focus bracketing you want to use manual mode when possible so that the only thing that changes between images is the focal distance.
I also have a GFX 100S but problems with my mac mini. See that you have a mac studio,what model is that and do you like it. Need to buy another one but not sure which one.
I have the Mac Studio M1 Max with 10 Core CPU, 24 Core GPU, and 64GB Memory. So far I really like it. It is really fast, very quiet, and runs really cool. I am running dual monitors and it has no problem handling both of them.
@@EricGebhard Thanks for your comment,hoped the 32GB would be enough,is cheaper 😁But also don't want to buy another one every year because I made the wrong choice. Now have the Mac mini M1 16GB and can't handle my photo program [ON1] starts to struggle after half an hour of editing 😅
Are there any other settings that need to be in place before what you mention here for focus stacking? I just can’t get it to work. I get a single image taken.
I don’t have any special setting in the camera. Anyways here is how I set up to use the focus bracketing: 1. Press the drive button and select BKT (6th down on the left) then select “FOCUS BKT” (4th on the right) 2. Press the menu button and goto the camera icon (3rd down on the left) and select “FOCUS BKT SETTINGS”. This allows you to chose between Manual and Auto. From here you can set up the bracketing setting how ever you want. As long as you are in the “FOCUS BKT” drive setting it will use what ever the “FOCUS BKT SETTINGS” are configured for. The key is to make sure your in Focus bracketing drive setting. Hope this helps Eric
Yikes that's a lot of images. Is your camera set really close to your closest focus point? If it is the camera will think that it needs to take an excessive amount of images. I had this happen when I was testing this out on a picnic table. My camera was setup right at the end of the table and about 6 inches above it. The camera wanted to take several hundred images for this 6 foot table. Personally, I would suggest you try using Manual. That way you can set the maximum number of images you want the camera to take. Usually I set Frames to between 10 15 when in manual.
@@EricGebhard I was trying a Macro shot using the 120 F4 so I had it as close as I could get it (about 17 inches or so). Pretty sure manual is the only way to go otherwise as you said, the camera wants to take a boat load of shots. I actually think for Macro, going fully manual is the way to go but I'll do some more testing with the automated manual. Thanks for the response. And great video. I'll definitely use this for landscape images!
overlapping foreground is a major major problem. I reckon you just shoot it at f/ridiculous for foreground, use Sharpen AI if necessary and use that to blend problematic transition zones. 3-4 shot you can just do it in Photoshop. Auto align is fine (lock largest frame for better sharpness), auto-blend is best avoided entirely or as a starting point only.
what do you mean by the phrase "perfect photo?" for me it could be a photo with an aeroektar178 mm lens. For me it's not a miracle, the cactus outlines are not sharp and it can look really bad when other things are sharp. There are lenses that do not change their image size when the focus changes on other points, but you don't have that. I'm sure you can take a photo of your hand. and then think about how much time you spent on one photo. And so you compromise on what your computer produces (haha) why are you taking photos in such an ugly sun? the sharpness may even be on the back of the printed photo. the light is so ugly.
@@EricGebhard The trick of using your hand as a starting point and ending point is priceless so some yet very very effective in saving wasted time looking for the shots. Thanks
Thx and this was perfect timing since I just got the 100s! Great job! You probably said this but what F stop did you use?? At the moment, I have the 32-64 lens.
@@jeffrogers4251 My go to f stop is 16. This works well on all of my lens. Focus stacking is a great tool but, don't be afraid to embrace the blur and use the deep of field to draw attention to your subject.
Wonderful explanations on focus bracketing from scratch, thank you Eric!
Thank you, BTW my apologizes for my delayed response.
I just got a Fujifilm GFX-100 and didn't know about focus stacking. Great tutorial, will definitely try it.
Great, it is a really nice camera. Enjoy, but be ready, 102MP creates some large files. But the images are worth it.
Best video about Gfx focus bracketing so far! Thank you 👍
Thank you I am glad you found it helpful.
Yet another helpfully tutorial of a process I didn't realise existed on my fairly new GFX 100s, That you so much.
Thank you and you are welcome.
i was salivating over your arca swiss geared head so much that i missed the process..twice.. lol v. nice setup…
Thank you. The Arca Swiss head is my favorite so far. I was just traveling out of the country and used a ball head (easier to travel with) and realized how much nicer the geared head is. It's a bit pricey but it is like a work art.
@@EricGebhard you get what you pay for, and you pay for what you get. you can’t beat good quality gear.
That is one BEAUTIFUL camera 📷 my friend!! Very informative video!! I’m still learned the in’s and outs when it comes to some camera work myself!
Thank you. The GFX100S is a fantastic camera and I really love it. After almost 2 years I am still learning things about it.
Thanks, you've given me the confidence to try again-was getting quite a lot of ghosting, most likely by no selecting enough focus points and possible editing each frame differently before stacking.
You're welcome and thank you for the kind words. I would recommend taking extra focus points. It is very easy to not use an image for the stack versus trying to go back and get more images. Editing all of the images exactly the same (this includes white balance) is really important and makes stacking the images much easier.
The society of putting things ontop of other things
What a great video. Thank you so much.
Greetings from Switzerland, Semih
Thank you Semih. I am a bit envious of Switzerland. Such a beautiful country. I visited Zurich last fall and it was really nice.
Thank you! your work helped us almost 2 years ago when we bought this camera there was very little info about it, your explanations are very helpful. in advance, sorry for the inaccuracy, I'm just not a native English speaker).
You are very welcome. I am glad it was helpful.
Wow Eric. Such a valuable tutorial. Thank you!
Thank you, I am glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for this! Love the superstitions too!
You’re welcome. The Superstition Mountains is one of my favorite locations.
Very helpful. Thank you!
You're welcome
Brilliant - thank you for doing this.
Thank you very much.
Great video!! Thanks for posting.
Thank you. I’m glad it was helpful.
Thank you for the useful video
You are very welcome.
FYI. In manual Focus Stacking mode - Step 5 is the same step size as auto. Step 10 doubles the distance between frames as compared to step 5
Thank you for the information I appreciate it.
thanks!!
You're welcome
Awesome information! Was trying to figure out the focus bracketing and you explained it great! Thank you! Mostly do product photography so that’ll be handy having it done auto/manual through the camera. Also what tripod head are you using!? Would love to use one of those!
Thank you and I am glad it was helpful. The Auto/Manual focus bracketing system should work great for product photography.
My tripod is a Really Right Stuff Versa M2 Series 2 with 4 section long legs. I bought it from either B&H or Adorama. The leveling base is the Really Right Stuff TA-2U-LC. The head is an Arca Swiss C1 Cube. It is quite expensive but it works amazing and looks like a work of art.
Eric
@@EricGebhard thank you! I’m excited to mess around with it more :) Will definitely look into getting one of those!
Great explanatory video on focus stacking with the GFX100s. Do you ever use electronic shutter or shutter cable release ?
Which of the 3 methods do you prefer ? Love your set-up. Let us know more about your tripod, leveling base, tripod head etc., l-brackett (for us gear-heads). Nice work. Dirk
Dirk, thank you. I use the mechanical shutter almost exclusively because the electronic shutter does not work as well for long exposures. Also you can not use Bulb mode with the electronic shutter. I have an electronic shutter release but most of the time I forget to set it up so I just set the self timer set to 2 seconds.
My tripod is a Really Right Stuff Versa MK2 Tripod with 4 sections, the long one. It is a great tripod but kinda heavy and a bit difficult to travel with but it has made several overseas trips. The leveling base is the Really Right Stuff TA-2U-LC. If you never used a leveling base I highly recommend getting one. They make setting up super easy and quick especially if you are looking at shooting a pano. For head I have a Arca-Swiss C1 Cube. It is a gear tripod head. Once again, if you have never used one I highly recommend trying a geared head. They force you to slow down and take your time composing the scene. Additionally, they allow you to make very fine carefully adjustment to your composition so you can get it just right.
Once again thank you.
Eric
Sorry I forgot to answer your question about which method I prefer. Personally, I like the Fuji's Focus Bracketing system on manual. It is quite easy to use. If you are shooting at night all you need to do is light up the area close to you in order to set the closest focus point. The camera will figure out the rest.
Eric
A good movie. However, it has two drawbacks. First of all, when the parameters are set on the camera, they are the most important and Erik's face should not be visible. Three methods of obtaining sharp photos were compared. In my opinion, it was necessary to merge the photos three times and compare the final photos obtained. Regards, Mirek.
Great video Eric, thanks for sharing. I have GFX + GF 63mm lens, which is an external focus lens (the field of view can change quite a bit depending on where in a scene I've selected to focus). May I ask; with such a lens, how do you go about composing and then selecting the focal points so the end result of stacked images retain the desired composition? The 63mm seems to have quite a 'zoom' effect through its focal range, especially apparent when stacking a subject that's close-up. Many thanks in advance! Andrew
Unfortunately the Fuji GF lens have quite a bit of focus breathing. I would suggest that you figure out which focus position is zoomed in the most and use that for composing. To start the stack images I would start at the closest focus point. Fortunately the focus stacking software compensates for the focus breathing. Hopefully this helps.
Eric
@@EricGebhard Focus breathing! That was the term I was looking for. Thanks again Eric, I will approach it from this basis.
A really good video Eric, thank you. My GFX100s does not appear to work in the same way as yours when using the Auto method. I notice you have your camera in Manual (on the toggle near the viewfinder) and that you can tap the screen to focus on Point A and Point B. Mine does not allow this function, I have to manually focus (rather than tap the screen). Do you have any idea why this may be? I’ve attempted it in Single, Continuous and Manual.
It's a setting you can setup in the menus. Go to the SET UP menu and select BUTTON/DIAL SETTING, TOUCH SCREEN SETTING, and make sure TOUCH SCREEN SETTING is set to ON for the camera. At least this is how it appears to work on my camera.
I was wondering if you have any experience using "Auto Focus Bracketing" in the macro world ? Using a GF 120 macro with an extension tube for example...1:1 in "usb tether mode shooting auto" mode...
I have not tried using the focus bracketing for macro photography.
I think all the people are preferring Fujifilm.
I shall have to think now. These days whenever I search UA-cam I only came across only Fujifilm, only Fujifilm, only Fujifilm cameras by some renowned photographer whose names I used to get below the pictures in travel magazines.
Had I but known about this camera earlier I would have thought the other way round.
Fuji is making some really nice cameras right now. They appear to be dominating the medium format market at the moment.
This is best explanation I've seen. Can you tell me the model tripod you are using?
Thank you for the kind words. I am using a Really Right Stuff Versa MK Series 2 tripod, the 4 section long version. I also have a Really Right Stuff TA-2U leveling base. For the head I am using a Arca-Swiss Cube C1 geared head. The setup is a bit pricey but it works extremely well and has proven to be fairly rugged. Note, I always take the head off the tripod and carry it my pack while hiking because it is very expensive and I don't want to damage it. Eric
@@EricGebhard Hi Eric, if you still have the stack images try turning the blur way down since it was completely still when you made the images. I think that would clean up around the cactus needles.
@@ironmonkey1512 That might work and I will have to give it a try.
Great video … very helpful… question… what aperture setting do you use when stacking?
Thank you. Typically with the GFX100S I shoot at f16.
@@EricGebhard I'm curious, Do you not lose focus when shooting with an aperture over F10 due to Diffraction?
@@LeonKolenda I haven't noticed any issues with diffraction at f16 with the GFX system, especially with the 45-100mm lens.
Hi. Can you confirm that focus points A and B remain the same when the series is repeated? This can be achieved with a focus rail, but I am looking for a faster way to always cover the same focus area using bracketing. I am currently using a Canon R5, but this does not offer an A B setting.
Hello, could you help me find your arca swiss material you display during the video please ? especially your special fuji support. Thanks
The tripod head I am using is an Arca Swiss Cube C1. It is a really nice piece of gear and I highly recommend it. Michael Strickland did a nice review of it www.michaelstricklandimages.com/blog/2016/10/5/gear-review-arca-swiss-cube-c1.
On the camera I am using a Really Right Stuff L bracket. I have used RRS L brackets on just about every camera I have owned. They are a bit expensive but fit the camera perfect and are very solid. Hope this helps.
@@EricGebhard Amazing : thanks a lot !
Great video. How do you deal with the large file size once stacked?
Thank you. The file that I get out of HeliconFocus is a TIFF and about he same size as each of the individual files that I used for stacking. Once, I bring it into Photoshop then I typically have to save it as a Large Document due to Photoshops file size restriction.
What kind of mode do you use? aperture priority or shutter priority?
I use manual mode about 99% of the time. For focus bracketing you want to use manual mode when possible so that the only thing that changes between images is the focal distance.
I also have a GFX 100S but problems with my mac mini. See that you have a mac studio,what model is that and do you like it. Need to buy another one but not sure which one.
I have the Mac Studio M1 Max with 10 Core CPU, 24 Core GPU, and 64GB Memory. So far I really like it. It is really fast, very quiet, and runs really cool. I am running dual monitors and it has no problem handling both of them.
@@EricGebhard Thanks for your comment,hoped the 32GB would be enough,is cheaper 😁But also don't want to buy another one every year because I made the wrong choice. Now have the Mac mini M1 16GB and can't handle my photo program [ON1] starts to struggle after half an hour of editing 😅
Are there any other settings that need to be in place before what you mention here for focus stacking? I just can’t get it to work. I get a single image taken.
I don’t have any special setting in the camera. Anyways here is how I set up to use the focus bracketing:
1. Press the drive button and select BKT (6th down on the left) then select “FOCUS BKT” (4th on the right)
2. Press the menu button and goto the camera icon (3rd down on the left) and select “FOCUS BKT SETTINGS”. This allows you to chose between Manual and Auto. From here you can set up the bracketing setting how ever you want. As long as you are in the “FOCUS BKT” drive setting it will use what ever the “FOCUS BKT SETTINGS” are configured for.
The key is to make sure your in Focus bracketing drive setting.
Hope this helps
Eric
When I do Auto, the camera wants to shoot 864 images. How do I change that?
Yikes that's a lot of images. Is your camera set really close to your closest focus point? If it is the camera will think that it needs to take an excessive amount of images. I had this happen when I was testing this out on a picnic table. My camera was setup right at the end of the table and about 6 inches above it. The camera wanted to take several hundred images for this 6 foot table. Personally, I would suggest you try using Manual. That way you can set the maximum number of images you want the camera to take. Usually I set Frames to between 10 15 when in manual.
@@EricGebhard I was trying a Macro shot using the 120 F4 so I had it as close as I could get it (about 17 inches or so). Pretty sure manual is the only way to go otherwise as you said, the camera wants to take a boat load of shots. I actually think for Macro, going fully manual is the way to go but I'll do some more testing with the automated manual. Thanks for the response. And great video. I'll definitely use this for landscape images!
overlapping foreground is a major major problem. I reckon you just shoot it at f/ridiculous for foreground, use Sharpen AI if necessary and use that to blend problematic transition zones. 3-4 shot you can just do it in Photoshop. Auto align is fine (lock largest frame for better sharpness), auto-blend is best avoided entirely or as a starting point only.
What L-bracket are you using?
I am using a Really Right Stuff L bracket. The 3 Legged Thing L bracket also works on the GFX 100S.
@@EricGebhard thank you for your help.
what do you mean by the phrase "perfect photo?" for me it could be a photo with an aeroektar178 mm lens. For me it's not a miracle, the cactus outlines are not sharp and it can look really bad when other things are sharp. There are lenses that do not change their image size when the focus changes on other points, but you don't have that. I'm sure you can take a photo of your hand. and then think about how much time you spent on one photo. And so you compromise on what your computer produces (haha) why are you taking photos in such an ugly sun? the sharpness may even be on the back of the printed photo. the light is so ugly.
👺
Excellent now I know how to stack with my GFXS
Thank you, I am glad you found it helpful.
@@EricGebhard The trick of using your hand as a starting point and ending point is priceless so some yet very very effective in saving wasted time looking for the shots. Thanks
@@Photojouralist123 I can't remember were I learned that but it really helps. The tricks to just remember to do every time.
Thx and this was perfect timing since I just got the 100s! Great job! You probably said this but what F stop did you use?? At the moment, I have the 32-64 lens.
@@jeffrogers4251 My go to f stop is 16. This works well on all of my lens. Focus stacking is a great tool but, don't be afraid to embrace the blur and use the deep of field to draw attention to your subject.