The mystical UA-cam algorithm recommended me this video. I'm also a laser noob, so your videos are perfect for me. Thanks for explaining everything in plan English, including the "why" parts, and adding some humor on how you learned from your mistakes. You rock, my man. :)
You're awesome, your videos are great! :) The question I want to ask is, what parameters would you recommend for a 20 Watt laser machine? Thanks in advance. By the way, I joined Discord. Should I have asked there instead?
There is no need to ask before joining discord, welcome to the channel! As far as 20w settings go, there is no good answer. The best way to dial in your machine is to run a speed/power test.
@@LaserNoob I previously used a 3 Watt machine. I'm new to working with a 20 Watt one, and it feels incredibly powerful compared to the 3 Watt. I'm really obsessed with engraving on ceramics and glass. After using the 3 Watt, I keep breaking things with the 20 Watt! I'm used to working with low power settings on the 3 Watt, but this machine is a beast, and it'll take a lot of effort to get used to. The parameters I was familiar with are completely thrown off now...
@magnogkilla I certainly understand that. I started with a 5w. Now I have a 36w, 30w, 2 10w and an extra 5w. The only one I don't have is a 20. With the more powerful lasers, start off by reducing power and upping the speed. You'll blow through a lot of test material. But once you have it dialed in, your money! 💰 💰 💰
Excellent as always your explanations, thank you very much for sharing, have you tried to record a photograph in 3mm acrylic? I have not been able to find the correct parameters, I have a sculpfun s10 and it does not work out for me, an apology but I am using the google translator, receive a cordial greeting and happy holidays. Thanks a lot.
First of all, BOTH thumbs up for your very informative and interesting videos! XD I only have a HUGE problem here in Germany and unfortunately I write with the translator ;( So: I have the Atomstack x7 Pro 50W Laser and NO MATTER what I do and set I do NOT get it engraved on glass ;( ;( ;( What the hell am I doing wrong? Could you possibly help me in any way or find out if I can really laser glass and stainless steel and aluminum with my laser? THANK YOU SO MUCH in advance from Germany XD Frank PS.PLEASE do keep it up with your videos XD
If you are using a blue diode laser, you will not be able to cut clear (and some color) acrylics. You need a Co2 laser for that my friend. But you can etch it with that process.
Glass is medium side up and medium down with acrylic. I have not ran acrylic tests on the A5 M50 Pro yet, but I will be doing them tomorrow for an upcoming video.
To clarify, glass is where you want the engraving to be. If you want it on the backside and not the front, you can do it that way. In this video, I did it on the front.
my laser in the end of engraving goes on all the lines once again with low beam power, is this what you mention earlier -overscanning? if yes so what would be benefit of that?
No, with overscanning, the laser shuts off briefly as it goes slightly past the burn area and comes back on when it comes back into the burn area. It keeps the edges from being over-burned. It sounds like you may be doing more than one pass or your project has multiple layers.
OK I'm having nothing but problem engraving glass with my atomstack a5 5w pro using dry Molly lub and it still did not work. Could it be that I'm using lasergrbl I use this because I for some reason I can not get lightburn to work with my engraver it runs for 5 lines and then go's to the home position with a grinding noise
I'm not sure the 5w burns hot enough for dry molly. I know it doesn't with cold galvanized compound. The tempera paint works well though. It should not matter what program you're running.
hey man i got a little tought about engraging the blue tape on glass then spray the writing or whatever I engrave and then removing the tape that left not being hit by beam . did you tried that maybe?
If you do that, your creating more of a stencil than actually etching the glass. The tempera paint method leaves a permanent etching of the surface. The other issue I see with that is trying to get smaller pieces of tape off that are parts of letter or an image without damaging the paint.
The mystical UA-cam algorithm recommended me this video. I'm also a laser noob, so your videos are perfect for me. Thanks for explaining everything in plan English, including the "why" parts, and adding some humor on how you learned from your mistakes. You rock, my man. :)
Glad you enjoyed the video. I hope you find it helpful!
@@LaserNoob very much so! I've never tried coating glass in black paint first. I'll have to give that a shot!
Awesome video as always mate, could you do a video showing how to do the power and speed test template please..
Yes I will
@@LaserNoob thanks a lot mate I appreciate it👍
You asked for it. The video is published.
@@LaserNoob you are a super star bud thank you, 3am here so I’ll watch it tomorrow when I get home, thanks again 👍
You're awesome, your videos are great! :) The question I want to ask is, what parameters would you recommend for a 20 Watt laser machine? Thanks in advance. By the way, I joined Discord. Should I have asked there instead?
There is no need to ask before joining discord, welcome to the channel! As far as 20w settings go, there is no good answer. The best way to dial in your machine is to run a speed/power test.
@@LaserNoob I previously used a 3 Watt machine. I'm new to working with a 20 Watt one, and it feels incredibly powerful compared to the 3 Watt. I'm really obsessed with engraving on ceramics and glass. After using the 3 Watt, I keep breaking things with the 20 Watt! I'm used to working with low power settings on the 3 Watt, but this machine is a beast, and it'll take a lot of effort to get used to. The parameters I was familiar with are completely thrown off now...
@magnogkilla I certainly understand that. I started with a 5w. Now I have a 36w, 30w, 2 10w and an extra 5w. The only one I don't have is a 20. With the more powerful lasers, start off by reducing power and upping the speed. You'll blow through a lot of test material. But once you have it dialed in, your money! 💰 💰 💰
Excellent as always your explanations, thank you very much for sharing, have you tried to record a photograph in 3mm acrylic? I have not been able to find the correct parameters, I have a sculpfun s10 and it does not work out for me, an apology but I am using the google translator, receive a cordial greeting and happy holidays. Thanks a lot.
I have done a photo on acrylic with a 10w diode laser. Use Imag-r to process the photo.
First of all, BOTH thumbs up for your very informative and interesting videos! XD I only have a HUGE problem here in Germany and unfortunately I write with the translator ;( So: I have the Atomstack x7 Pro 50W Laser and NO MATTER what I do and set I do NOT get it engraved on glass ;( ;( ;( What the hell am I doing wrong? Could you possibly help me in any way or find out if I can really laser glass and stainless steel and aluminum with my laser? THANK YOU SO MUCH in advance from Germany XD Frank PS.PLEASE do keep it up with your videos XD
Have you ran a speed / power test? What are you coating the glass with?
Have someone tried to add tio2 in the black paint?
Do you think air assist would do much of a different in glass engraving ? Have old fish air pump and im wondering
I have found air assist will cool down the paint and keep you from getting white. At least that is my experience.
My only Question. 12mm a minute. How long does the burn take you. Seems like a long burn.
Sorry rewatched 12mm a second. Got it!!!
Sehr 👍 👍 👍 👍 gut
Can this also cut the acrylic or just engrave? I am trying to cut acrylic with this machine but I can’t seem to understand how?
If you are using a blue diode laser, you will not be able to cut clear (and some color) acrylics. You need a Co2 laser for that my friend. But you can etch it with that process.
When your engraving glass or acrylic do you put paint side up or down
Glass is medium side up and medium down with acrylic. I have not ran acrylic tests on the A5 M50 Pro yet, but I will be doing them tomorrow for an upcoming video.
To clarify, glass is where you want the engraving to be. If you want it on the backside and not the front, you can do it that way. In this video, I did it on the front.
my laser in the end of engraving goes on all the lines once again with low beam power, is this what you mention earlier -overscanning? if yes so what would be benefit of that?
No, with overscanning, the laser shuts off briefly as it goes slightly past the burn area and comes back on when it comes back into the burn area. It keeps the edges from being over-burned. It sounds like you may be doing more than one pass or your project has multiple layers.
@@LaserNoob right. ill look in to that. much thanks
OK I'm having nothing but problem engraving glass with my atomstack a5 5w pro using dry Molly lub and it still did not work. Could it be that I'm using lasergrbl I use this because I for some reason I can not get lightburn to work with my engraver it runs for 5 lines and then go's to the home position with a grinding noise
I'm not sure the 5w burns hot enough for dry molly. I know it doesn't with cold galvanized compound. The tempera paint works well though. It should not matter what program you're running.
i am ur viewers from facebook..
Where do you get your power test files?
If you have facebook you can message me @lasernoob and I will send it to you.
hey man i got a little tought about engraging the blue tape on glass then spray the writing or whatever I engrave and then removing the tape that left not being hit by beam . did you tried that maybe?
What are you thinking about spraying it with?
@@LaserNoob like a spray paint
If you do that, your creating more of a stencil than actually etching the glass. The tempera paint method leaves a permanent etching of the surface. The other issue I see with that is trying to get smaller pieces of tape off that are parts of letter or an image without damaging the paint.
I put tempera paint on my acrylic let it dry and the paint just flakes off ..anyone knows why?
I've not had that issue, sorry.
I had that issue before. I had to make sure I cleaned the glass with 99% IPA wipe with a microfiber cloth, then coat it.