Відео

where did you get your speed power test file?

Try line marking spray. You can use it upside down and no splatter.

this happened to me twice with the same old crappy pla filament, when using good quality filaments didnt happen

This is exactly the demonstration I needed, and it fixed my problem. Thank you!

This video has pointed out things to me that might help solve some of the problems I've had with mine, but I also noticed that the engraver you got came with things that mine did not come with, like the touch screen, or the wifi rod on the back of the control box.

Thanks so much really helpful

just like the orange monster. Terrible video.

your shirt is going to make me unsubscribe.

nice but where is the focus : on the front or on the rear side ?

Hi THX for the videos...MUCH appreciated. I have lost my Fixed Focus Plate.... How thick is it PLEASE...???? Cheers keep up the good work

Do you engrave on the painted side or is the painted side down

Thanks!

Consider using the crosshatch option especially since you are already doing 2 passes. It works better for me with my 10W diode

your a life saver thank you!

I think these icons/images would also look really cool using a cross hatch or dot screen infill!!!--kinda like comic book images!!!

AWESOME VIDEO!!! 💯 TEMPERA PAINT FOR THE WIN!!! I'm betting if you engraved it in an enclosure with good airflow and also used an Air Assist on the laser, it just might keep the surface cool enough!!!

Thanks for the video

Thank You!

thanks

Thank you so much, you help me a lot. God bless you

Where did you get your hold down clips?

Excellent. There's so little online help for troubleshooting the K1C, this saved me from making a trip to microcenter to buy a nozzle kit that wouldn't have solved myproblem, anyways. Subbed.

Yeah this sucks creality is crap

I'm little bit confused. When u did your first testing, it was laser flat, when u uploaded finished grid image, its saying "laser cylindrical''. So, which setting u used for final test that did end up correctly? when u started engraving your dragon logo, it was saying again laser flat, even u using rotary attachment.

What the heck ! I just purchased the K1C ! Is this a common problem? Given the cost, this seems to be ridiculous!

I cannot for the life of me get my extruder to pull apart (the piece housing the gears). All screws are removed and everything. Terrified to break it by forcing too hard.

I was just glad to know that cold galvanizing was bad to use with lasers without a good vent.

Hu! Thanks for the tutorial! About the Omtec black spray, is it white when painted on ? New at this 😊

Great video thank you! Fixed my problem !

I need to try that LSU idea. Hmmm… Got an extra one laying around?? 😂😂

The factory video says 1minute

Omg your matt is genius! I’ve been struggling so much to center my work, this would help so much! Wishing I didn’t just blow money on a matt off Amazon… 😞

RESULTS.... With my Longer B1 30 watt laser set to 4000 mm/min, 50% power, .08 line interval, burning my pint glass resulted in very nice, BLACK test squares and not the "white" etching I was expecting. This is with a just purchased can of the Rust-Oleum CG spray. These results were obtained with both a one coat and a two coat test. I do get a beautiful "white" etch using the black Prang Tempura paint, but, I have to use my airbrush to apply to ensure an even, smooth coat,(s) with at least 3-4 coats performing best. Airbrushing is OK, but, being a PIA to clean, I'll line up several/many objects to airbrush to make the cleanup worthwhile. The Tempura paint works best - for me - with a somewhat heavier coating and when I tried to apply subsequent coats carefully with a foam brush, the previous coat melted/dissolved when the second was applied. The dollar store has the pint glasses for only a buck 25 each and my stash of over 20 glasses will let me fine tune my settings on the cheap.... A TIP - When cleaning your burns, it is best to use a soft toothbrush to gently scrub the etch. Cleaning with only a soft - foam brush - will not effectively clean the nooks and crannies in you burn and, using a bit of Dawn detergent on the brush will provide the best final finish....

I'll be testing my burns with the cold galvanized spray as soon as my can arrives tomorrow. NOW, my very best advise to EVERYONE is to ALWAYS use the air assist when burning ANY glass etching masks. I have heard from some people that they f'ed up their laser lens, (protective lens), by not using the air assist as some of the flying particles jumped up into the laser head and BONDED to the lens.... SO, you do you, I'll do me and use air assist all of the time.... Call me cautious, but, call me a guy without a damaged laser lens 🙂

Great, save me a lot of time. Thank you.

should play your music louder, I could almost hear other things..

Even though I've been using my laser for close to 10 mths I never thought to use this option, I'm currently making a stove top cover (3rd one so far) and it's much larger then my machine, the first two covers I got lucky with aligning them to center just by eye-balling them, I think they where off by 1/4" (not bad). this current project was off by 2 1/2" so it was noticeable, I had seen others use a similar technique to yours but it got confusing because they where talking about setting they had done previously off camera. (no help what-so-ever). Your tutorial is easy to follow, clear and concise. I marked the center of the board, jogged the laser module to the center mark, made the required setting and it works as it should, I did have to slide the frame to the right about an inch but everything is set to go. Great work on the tutorial. Thanks

New to laser I have a atom stack pro 5 5.5W it has no homing switches when I start my laser in lightburn it says no home has been set in GRBL how do I get it to home

Amazing videos, I'm looking at getting one and ur so helpful with info I really appreciate it all. So thank you very much from a happy follower in Wrexham, wales. Thank you please keep videos coming

The easiest way to get the angled cut perfect is to lay the two filaments against each other and cut them together with 1 cut. Works perfect for me!

So I was today years old when I found out that setting the mm per rotation actually really did matter. Wow. Thanks for your video on that. I was going nuts because I would send the graphic to the laser and it would burn it all the way around. Thanks again. Btw if anyone asks the Creality rotary chuck has to be set to 40 mm per rotation. Thanks again, new fan.

My system came with a 10 and 40w. I just have to look and see if i.have to do anything with the motherboard. I also got in with xtool for the shirts and that came with a brand new 10w and the attachment to burn on the paint screens to make shirts. I may have to put that together and try that. Weird that a 40w, or 36 in your case, can't burn tiles. You would think you could just reduce the power to make it work. Thanks for your response.

Hi, I'm a new subscriber. I've tried 2 tiles with the rustoleum 2x satin white but both were way to light. One I used invert and the other reg. I used 100% power and 3000mm/m and 2000mm/min. I'm running a 40w d1pro. I just too the image off of a 3d website. Any suggestions as to make this better. Your images are excellent!!!!

The intro of the manufacturer says 1 (one) minute, and NOT 4.!

Hi bro, I appreciate the review but it's almost impossible to listen to with all the background noise... You need to find a quieter place to record or adjust the audio in post.

Crazy. I have always just used a lighter and ice pack to cool it then a razor blade to clean it up. It takes like a min and I just do it on the machine when my spool has a couple of winds left.

You don't any kind of paint if you are using the black poster board behind the acrylic.

Brilliant Video, thanks for sharein

I didn't know this video would contain Lib Tears. Extra points! Great video

Nearly 3 three years ago, but your assistance is timeless! THANK YOU!