Thank you David. This is a very detailed description of trans fluid flush. And what a hell of a great tip to measure by weight instead of volume for accuracy.
It would be cool if people watching would be able to upvote videos like this. This video is the most comprehensive transmission flush video on UA-cam. Strong work brother!
Finally got it done on my 2014. 63000 miles. Used toyota genuine ws just because there is so much confusion about different brands. And the OBD jump #4&13 worked easier than expected. Compared with an IR thermometer on pan for comparison. The hottest part of the pan is the front upper area, and the IR read 110-115 F when the 'D' light illuminated. Ran it quite a while longer just to see what would happen, and the flashing D came on. But there was plenty of time between solid D and flashing D to get the level check done. Now we will do my son's 2007. Apparently the OBD jump works the same on 4th gen, with the exception of an 'A/T OIL TEMP" signal instead of the D. Thanks again.
EXCELLENT video. Thank you for doing this, I'll use it as a go-by for my transmission fluid/filter change next weekend! And I'm glad T4R had the answer for you, that site is the sum of all human knowledge regarding 4Runners lol
Definitely the most in depth walk through that I have seen so far! I accidentally took out that same bolt on the shift selector as well haha. I had to go around 3 times until the pan bolts were all torqued correctly. Also the first time I've actually seen someone flush it correctly. I did 3 quart flush cycles, hopefully didn't cause any issues ;).
Thanks for the feedback! Glad you gave it a shot! I was tempted to do 3 quarts at a time. I bet it’ll be fine :-) Gotta say, I feel a little better knowing I’m not the only one who loosened that selector bolt!
Awesome video sir! And solid advice on checking valve body bolt torque. I can't believe I have never thought to do so, cross channel pressure bleed is definitely an issue on aging units.
Hi I have I have the Toyota 4runner 2013 can you please tell me do you do mechanical work at home or whatever you do it I like to do my transmission fluid change the right way and all the fluid in my truck thank you let me know please
After watching this video I canceled an expensive dealer service. Dealer would only drain and fill transmission with no flush or filter. Most independent shops seemed to only want to do the same. To me it seems like a waste of time and money changing just 25% of the fluid. I want it done right like you did so I decided to perform the service myself. It seems my 2020 Model year no longer has a pin 13 on the OBD2. I ended up just buying a scanner that reads transmission temp. Anyways thank you!! Your video makes this project very easy.
I just completed the service today. It took me a few dealers to get enough Toyota WS ATF (I wanted to stick with factory) down here in the Orlando area. One dealer said they have had it on back order for a while. Everything went smoothly. The only thing I did differently was the way I accessed the transmission cooler hose. I took off the skid plate and went through the front as I had my truck on 4 ramps and it would not have been easy to remove the wheel. It took me several hours because I am very meticulous with my projects…lol. I purchased the Foxwell NT604 scanner from Amazon. It seemed to work well. Thanks again. Your video was a great help!!
Fantastic video. How cool and calm you talked through the entire video, would give people who are doing it for the first time some confidence! Liked and sub'ed!
Hello David. Great instructions for transmission complete fluid/filter & flush! Just purchased 2023 4runner limited. Will be strictly on road with light duty 10k miles yearly if that. What do you recommend as far as maintenance for our vehicle, I'm not convinced dealership will be seeing our vehicle in for service as I have heard and experienced problems resulted from them. Thank you from your channels latest subscriber!
Good luck with it! It’s been one of my favorite maintenance hacks so far on the 4Runner. The process has worked similarly well on our Mazda, Ranger, and my son’s Odyssey. One of these days, I want to try dropping a pickup hose into fresh fluid to see if the pump will just pull in new fluid as old fluid is pumped out. I’ve heard it works but haven’t tried it yet. Good luck!
@@fixityfix this worked like a charm. I ended up intercepting the cooler return right out of the cooler, easier than the wheel well, but I wasn’t filming either. Very straightforward process and the truck shifts like new again.
Thanks for the informed video. Just did on mine. An incident happened after bleeding the fluid, at some point, the refilled fluid was about one quart less than expected. I only noticed the short of fluid when I found no fluid came out after removing the level check plug, that's already after 10 minutes of ilding to bring the fluid temperature up. Hopefully that won't damage the transmission😅
This was my take on the procedure (fluid change only) - I bought 12qt of Toyota WS (through Amazon) and then drained the pan and measured it at 2.5qt. I then refilled with a bit more than that then started the flushing. I pulled about 8qt and by the last pull it was looking much better. I knew the pan held 2.5qt so I saved that much for my last fill. After that started it and shifted between R-N-D a few times and then put the E-brake on and left it in Drive for about 5min to get the temp up (with me behind the wheel of course!). After that put it in Neutral and used a jug to measure how much came from the overflow plug and it was about 1/2 cup - so I guess the measurements came out OK. Headed to the parts store to dump the fluid with it now and hopefully no issues. Also lube those U-joints while you're down there!
Thanks! First attempt on a 4Runner for me. 2 flash thoughts... I have always used new pan bolts on my other Toyotas because there's a dry thread lock. I would only use ATF-WS (0289).
Great video! I have one question tho, If you have a scan gauge to use instead of the pin method what temperature should I be looking for after starting it up?
To clarify, if i was to use the lines from the top, I would use the line marked blue correct @ 16:56 ? I'm pretty sure that's what you said, just wanted to clarify. My confusion is there's a red mark that you placed on the hose you would access from the bottom, just didn't want to confuse the two, sorry for my ignorance I have the Fox Shocks reservoir in the way on the bottom line. Thanks for your time and patience
The only thing i would say that is that you should use toyota ws fluid. A master tech for toyota said he's only fixed 2 4runner transmsions in the last 10 years. One of which was due to using the wrong fluid.
Toyota fluids are for people who absolutely cannot bother themselves to find the right information. Do you really need your fluid to say Toyota ATF not to ruin your car? Well youre an ignorant fool. You must work for a dealership. Thats how you get to talk to "master techs" as if that exists in the dealership space. LOL a dealership master tech. Damn i bet hes good. NOT lol
Does the OBD jump method (pins # 4 & 13) for temperature check also work on 4th gen? I've watched about 6 of these different approaches to 4runner trans flush, and this is by far the best; right amount of detail without unnecessary inclusion. Ready now to give it a shot. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and the kind words! I don’t have personal experience with the 4th gen, but have a look at this forum discussion, looks like it might: www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/142830-jump-dcm-transmission-fluid-level-check.html
Having the fluid at the right temperature ensures the right amount, by volume, is added. This is because transmission fluid volume changes based on temperature.
@@kdworak4754 Ya know. They make a big deal about getting the temp just right. And I did it per instructions. But I took 5 gal of the drained fluid in a 5 gal clear container and let it set overnight to 50 degrees, and marked the level at dawn. The let it set in the sun and gradually heat to 80 degrees. The level didn't change noticably at all.
Hey! Thanks for watching! I just used a criss-cross pattern, half torque to all, then around again to full torque. Here is a reference to a helpful discussion: www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/186529-transmission-pan-bolt-torque-specs.html
I just did this on a 2018 4runner. It had 55k miles so I did not drop the pan. 3 1/4 quarts came out. So I did roughly 4 cycles. Not sure why you said 6 cycles you can drain 3 1/4 quarts no problem each time not 2 quarts like you mention.
@@TheRayDog when you initially drain the pan you will drain 3 1/4 quarts. So you put 3 1/4 quarts back in. But actually you should put little more fluid back in since when you do the trans fluid check you want excess fluid to come out through the fluid check plug at the very end. I did this in 3 trucks. 2 4Runners and 1 Tacoma. Never 2 quarts came out when doing the first I tail drain. Always 3 ish initially. No air sucked in since I put more in than came out each time.
@@Tacoexplorer Ah, got it. You're talking pan drain. The 2 qts he's talking about come from running the trans with the return line from the rad disconnected.
Hi Sir I like to ask a question do you do any sides work I like to change my oil on my transmission Toyota 4Runner2013 limeted please let me know thank you Sir waiting for your answer
I haven’t noticed any downsides to MaxLife in any of our cars. It’s been in the 4Runner for 60k and counting and been flawless. One theoretical downside is that Toyota uses very specific fluids. I have found Toyota engine oil makes a big difference, but, so far, MaxLife ATF has been fine. I just posted a video on 4Runner engine oil and talk about Toyota’s oil. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Same here .it is clear that I would take my car to a Toyota technician than expose my transmission to a failure and end costing me 7000 in a new transmission.
@@eliazarmarcano5616 You can do it! You may want to check out the UA-cam channel "A Car Care Nut," as he is a master diagnostic technician and doesn't get quite as deep on the change of filters. I think he has said he's only seen one car, at about 300,000 miles, have any significant debris in the filter. I personally have done three drain and fills, including one where I dropped the pan and changed the transmission filter. The Toyotas, at least, can put up with a lot of abuse and neglect. So, if you can just do a drain & fill at 60,000 mile increments, you will get quite a bit of positive effect out of it. On the RAV4s that I did before, I got over five quarts out by letting them drain for extended amounts of time. I would drain for a half hour, close up the drain and go back and drain a half hour later. I would do that a couple of more times and I got a lot out. Those intervals and the level of effort also is dependent on whether you are towing, off-roading, driving in heavy traffic. The fluid in those cases needs to be done earlier and more thoroughly. As an aside, try pricing out OEM fluids, filters and gaskets using Toyota's official parts website. Free shipping over $75 AND many dealerships offer incredible pricing. (My 2014 4Runner transmission filter cost under $50 with the OEM gasket (priced separately). $7.20 per quart of OEM transmission fluid. Shop around!
Hi David-Good question! There are three reasons I can think of. 1) The most obvious is I added several extra ounces because I didn’t want to risk having too little fluid. 2) I didn’t just do a drain and fill, I did a flush. The flush introduces a lot of room for mis-measurement (another reasons to err on a few ounces too much). 3) I switched from Toyota WS fluid to Valvoline Maxlife. Since I wasn’t sure the two fluids had the same thermal expansion rates, I erred on the full side. The trickle during the level check is the unambiguous marker the fluid volume is correct. I’d rather waste a little and do it once than have to keep topping it up. Thanks for watching and for the question!
You got me confuse. At 17:01 you saying blue line is return from cooler to transmission, and we have to use this line to flush. Then at 18:05 you showing red marked hose and saying that this is return line and we have to connect here to flush. (???????)
I can see where that might be confusing! It is the same line. You can use either place to tap onto it. The top access point (17:01) keeps you from having to remove the wheel. I tapped in on the bottom part (shown at 18:05), since I had the wheel off anyway. Good luck!
Thanks for watching and commenting! Sorry it took me awhile to reply! I see the process in this video as a middle ground, between drain and fill vs a shop flush. By shop flush, I mean the kind where a shop uses a high pressure machine to push old fluid out and new fluid in. This video just uses the built in transmission pump to push out a little at a time, using the transmission's own pump that is always running when the engine is on. So the pressures used are normal and, at least theoretically less likely to cause damage. The main risk is still, that if the transmission is old and has not been well maintained, it might only be the friction materials floating in the old fluid that are causing the clutch discs to grab. I am curious to know what you end up deciding and how it goes!
question Dave I bought a 2013 last november and am having shudder and slip issues on low accelerationt he toyota dealership was surposed to change all flids before delivery but Im not convinced that was done, just the reality of mistrust with dealers, so I watched the flush video and thought that would be the cure Id apreciate your thoughts, thanks Dave, please continue to make more videos your the best educator
Very helpfull information. Thank you sir. Do you think flush would help getting rid of transmission shudder 1st to 2nd gear? My car has that problem 2011 T4R trail edition at 103k now.
Thank you for the kind words! It is certainly possible the shudder could be related to low or old fluid. While I didn’t have a shudder shifting was sluggish and the ‘flush’ really improved shifting on my 4Runner, even at 70K miles. A similar procedure on my old Ranger got rid of the 1 - 2 shudder, but I think that had more to do with the fluid level being low to begin with. Good luck!
I know this is really late. I'd never flush at 103k for a first ATF procedure. Drain and fill only. Should be changed at 60k unless driven off-road, towing or in heavy traffic (then sooner). Lifetime or 100k advice by Toyota is just crazy late
@@kimbuck-2 I will address two things here, coolant and transmission fluid because both often get flushed. Doing a flush involves pushing or sucking fluid through. Whenever you're dealing with something that is over its recommended change cycle, you could be dealing with additives that have expired and no longer prevent build up, corrosion/sludge, protecting the seals and gaskets of a component, rubber and metal lines, etc. So, in theory, without those additives protecting the internals of a device, suddenly pushing through new fluid can also break loose sludge/crud, breakthrough seals, clog up solenoids/thermostats that help route the fluid. At that point, a drain and fill will restore additives into the system, albeit at a lower percentage but it will help keep things alive without screwing up any components. Most manufacturers recommend a 7 to 9 year cycle at 100 or 150,000 miles for coolant... On its initial OEM factory installed fluid. Those cycles are cut in half for the second phase coolant fill. So, instead of 100,000 miles, most manufacturers will say 50,000 miles. I believe that is to take into account that the longer an engine runs, the corrosion rate increases but I would also imagine that they are taking into account that most people are draining and filling and leaving some of the older fluid behind. With my coolant drain and fill experience, I also opened up the engine block drain and got a literal 50% of the fluid out. For transmissions, follow what the manufacturer is recommend without recommending it overtly. If they warranty their vehicles transmission for 5 years or 60,000 miles, do your fluid changes at 60,000 miles. Probably the most neglected of regular service items, some people will do a drain and fill repeatedly over time. That is preferable to a traditional flush. The concern is how far over the recommended cycle has that fluid gone and how much wear and tear to the internal components has occurred. If too much where has occurred, some of the clutch materials may be floating loose in the transmission fluid and is actually needed for the clutches to grab each other to change gears. Doing a complete fluid flush could then expose new problems. Mechanics will sometimes, if working on a transmission that hasn't been maintained properly, actually save the transmission fluid and refill it once the work is done. This puts those particulates back into the system so the clutch will grab. What I've chosen to do is a drain and fill as close to 60,000 miles as possible and then go on a 30,000 mile interval with drain and fills. The exceptions for me are my prius, I will do those at 50,000 mile intervals. With that said, all of my family's Toyotas, minus the Prius, we're bought used and I do not know how they were driven. Some have service records indicating that they have had transmission fluid flushes at proper intervals. Others have not. On those that did not have other reported transmission services, I actually drop the pan and replace the filter. That also gives me an opportunity to inspect and see if large chunks are in there showing possible damage. When I do that, I get about 50% of the fluid out. I think my RAV4, with a u760e transmission, the 5.5 quarts is a little over 50%. I learned about flushing early on when I trashed my Ford truck by doing a flush 10 years after the fluid had expired and 10,000 miles over its stated life. I really screwed that up and ended up selling it at a big loss.
My overflow plug fell off while driving and i lost a good amount of fluid but was only about 300 yrds away from home. I ordered a replacement plug and Toyota doesnʻt have that HEX bolt, they sold me a regular bolt that looks like the drain plug. It fits so would that matter?
Glad you were close to home when it happened! I can’t say for sure, but I’d be inclined to trust the Toyota dealer parts folks. Let me know how it goes!
I just recently did the flush and change to my truck and it started slipping as I got on the highway? I obviously did something wrong? Can you help me out
How many miles are on the vehicle? In any case, I’d start troubleshooting by carefully going through the temperature/fluid level procedure- often slipping is a result of too little (or even too much fluid). And these transmissions are super sensitive to fluid level. If that doesn’t address the slippage, I’d suggest getting it assessed by a reputable local transmission shop. Good luck!
Hi Charlie, thanks for the comments, especially the kind words! This is my first 4Runner too, I love that it’s still body-on-frame. The pump I use is a Motive: www.motiveproducts.com/products/powerfill-pro-1-gallon-tank
I haven’t worked on the 4th gen, but check out this thread for more authoritative info: www.4runners.com/threads/checking-sealed-transmission-fluid-level.1432/
@@fixityfix Thank You, I just used a thermal scanner underneath the pan to check the temperature around 75%. knowing that the temperature will go up. So far it seems to be holding within the recommended temperature.
@@fixityfix Oh my God, thank you for getting that. I don't know what it was maybe your voice or that you look kind of like him if you wore glasses, but I instantly thought of him. Again thank you for the informative video and for not getting offended.
WS isn't a terribly good fluid. Evidence from 3rd party testing shows poor thermal breakdown characteristics. This is a rare instance where a manufacturer's fluid is clearly inferior to others.
279,000 miles on a Lexus GX460, never changed Tranny fluid. Buddy has same truck, changed fluid every 45k. His tranny went out at 165k. When it comes to Toyota (Lexus) trannys, if its not broke, don't fix it.
That's awful advice. The trans fluid wears out just like engine oil, diff fluids, t-case fluid, coolant, etc. Do you share the same logic about changing engine oil? "If the engine hasn't thrown a rod don't worry about it".
Im too wealthy to do this one myself..my time and patience can be better spent doing other things… Why cant you just drain and fill…why does it gotta be 48 steps, 35 cycles…jumping obd…temperature measurement…. The differentials, transfer and oil take ten minutes…this is an all day job, need two people…no thanks, ill pay the $200
This is the best DIY video I have seen to date! Thanks so much for your calm demeanor, thorough instructions and clear video. BRAVO!
Hi Scott! I appreciate the wonderful feedback and thanks for watching!
Tremendously informative. Much more detailed than other drain and fill videos.
Thanks for the kind words, glad you found the video helpful!
Thank you David. This is a very detailed description of trans fluid flush. And what a hell of a great tip to measure by weight instead of volume for accuracy.
Thanks Ollie! In the end, I think weighing the temperature sensitive fluids ends up saving a little time in getting the levels just right.
It would be cool if people watching would be able to upvote videos like this. This video is the most comprehensive transmission flush video on UA-cam. Strong work brother!
Patrick, Thank You! Your kind words made my day!
I watched another video and yours is tops - props to the Little Woman for handing the production 👍
This video was hands down the best. I have been looking for this exact video for a little while. Excellent job!
Thanks for the kind feedback and for watching! If you do the flush, please let me know how it goes.
Finally got it done on my 2014. 63000 miles. Used toyota genuine ws just because there is so much confusion about different brands. And the OBD jump #4&13 worked easier than expected.
Compared with an IR thermometer on pan for comparison. The hottest part of the pan is the front upper area, and the IR read 110-115 F when the 'D' light illuminated. Ran it quite a while longer just to see what would happen, and the flashing D came on. But there was plenty of time between solid D and flashing D to get the level check done.
Now we will do my son's 2007. Apparently the OBD jump works the same on 4th gen, with the exception of an 'A/T OIL TEMP" signal instead of the D. Thanks again.
Great video that explains & shows how to check atf temperature without the scan tool. Shows the dash display of 5th gen, TY
Wish I had a car lift like you have
you should have 20x more subs...waaaay better content than others with 1M plus subs.
Thanks for watching and for the kind words! You’ve made my day :-)
EXCELLENT video. Thank you for doing this, I'll use it as a go-by for my transmission fluid/filter change next weekend! And I'm glad T4R had the answer for you, that site is the sum of all human knowledge regarding 4Runners lol
Thanks for watching and the kind feedback! Good luck with your fluid change! Let me know how it goes!
Definitely the most in depth walk through that I have seen so far! I accidentally took out that same bolt on the shift selector as well haha. I had to go around 3 times until the pan bolts were all torqued correctly. Also the first time I've actually seen someone flush it correctly. I did 3 quart flush cycles, hopefully didn't cause any issues ;).
Thanks for the feedback! Glad you gave it a shot! I was tempted to do 3 quarts at a time. I bet it’ll be fine :-)
Gotta say, I feel a little better knowing I’m not the only one who loosened that selector bolt!
Awesome video sir! And solid advice on checking valve body bolt torque. I can't believe I have never thought to do so, cross channel pressure bleed is definitely an issue on aging units.
Thanks for the kind words! I’ve been tightening the valve body bolts ever since it made a huge difference on my very old Ranger!
Hi I have I have the Toyota 4runner 2013 can you please tell me do you do mechanical work at home or whatever you do it I like to do my transmission fluid change the right way and all the fluid in my truck thank you let me know please
Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to explain every step in detail.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching and commenting!
By weight! Brilliant!!
After watching this video I canceled an expensive dealer service. Dealer would only drain and fill transmission with no flush or filter. Most independent shops seemed to only want to do the same. To me it seems like a waste of time and money changing just 25% of the fluid. I want it done right like you did so I decided to perform the service myself. It seems my 2020 Model year no longer has a pin 13 on the OBD2. I ended up just buying a scanner that reads transmission temp. Anyways thank you!! Your video makes this project very easy.
Glad to hear the video was helpful! Please let me know how the process goes for you! Which code reader did you end up buying?
I just completed the service today. It took me a few dealers to get enough Toyota WS ATF (I wanted to stick with factory) down here in the Orlando area. One dealer said they have had it on back order for a while. Everything went smoothly. The only thing I did differently was the way I accessed the transmission cooler hose. I took off the skid plate and went through the front as I had my truck on 4 ramps and it would not have been easy to remove the wheel. It took me several hours because I am very meticulous with my projects…lol. I purchased the Foxwell NT604 scanner from Amazon. It seemed to work well. Thanks again. Your video was a great help!!
Thanks for the info! That's quite an involved procedure.
My pleasure, let me know how it goes if you do it!
Fantastic video. How cool and calm you talked through the entire video, would give people who are doing it for the first time some confidence! Liked and sub'ed!
Thanks for the kind feedback! And for watching and subscribing :-)
Hello David. Great instructions for transmission complete fluid/filter & flush! Just purchased 2023 4runner limited. Will be strictly on road with light duty 10k miles yearly if that. What do you recommend as far as maintenance for our vehicle, I'm not convinced dealership will be seeing our vehicle in for service as I have heard and experienced problems resulted from them. Thank you from your channels latest subscriber!
Thanks for the kind comment! With no towing and light use, I’d simply swap out the fluid every 40-60k miles! Enjoy the 4Runner!
well done
Thanks for watching and for the kind comment!
Giving this one a shot today...great video.
Good luck with it! It’s been one of my favorite maintenance hacks so far on the 4Runner. The process has worked similarly well on our Mazda, Ranger, and my son’s Odyssey. One of these days, I want to try dropping a pickup hose into fresh fluid to see if the pump will just pull in new fluid as old fluid is pumped out. I’ve heard it works but haven’t tried it yet. Good luck!
@@fixityfix this worked like a charm. I ended up intercepting the cooler return right out of the cooler, easier than the wheel well, but I wasn’t filming either. Very straightforward process and the truck shifts like new again.
thanks Dave this is the best video Im glad I found you and will be a constant viewer thanks again
"Etch a sketch looking" 🤣🤣🤣🤣Love it, great comparison for us older guys.👍😎
Thanks for watching! Next video, I’ll have to work in a Lite-Brite somehow…
Thanks for the informed video. Just did on mine. An incident happened after bleeding the fluid, at some point, the refilled fluid was about one quart less than expected. I only noticed the short of fluid when I found no fluid came out after removing the level check plug, that's already after 10 minutes of ilding to bring the fluid temperature up. Hopefully that won't damage the transmission😅
Thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, the level check procedure is tricky!
This was my take on the procedure (fluid change only) - I bought 12qt of Toyota WS (through Amazon) and then drained the pan and measured it at 2.5qt. I then refilled with a bit more than that then started the flushing. I pulled about 8qt and by the last pull it was looking much better. I knew the pan held 2.5qt so I saved that much for my last fill. After that started it and shifted between R-N-D a few times and then put the E-brake on and left it in Drive for about 5min to get the temp up (with me behind the wheel of course!). After that put it in Neutral and used a jug to measure how much came from the overflow plug and it was about 1/2 cup - so I guess the measurements came out OK. Headed to the parts store to dump the fluid with it now and hopefully no issues. Also lube those U-joints while you're down there!
Nice job. Good presentation.
Thank you!
Very good video this is the right way to do it.
Thanks for watching and for the kind comment!
Thanks! First attempt on a 4Runner for me.
2 flash thoughts... I have always used new pan bolts on my other Toyotas because there's a dry thread lock. I would only use ATF-WS (0289).
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the helpful feedback!
Thank u so much
Got a 2018 Taco OR and Going to swap with MaxLife!
Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck and please let me know how it goes!
Thank you, clear and concise explanations.
unbelievable video!!!
Thank you very much for watching!
Great video- thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video! I have one question tho, If you have a scan gauge to use instead of the pin method what temperature should I be looking for after starting it up?
I look for 105F-120F when using a scan tool. Thanks for watching!
To clarify, if i was to use the lines from the top, I would use the line marked blue correct @ 16:56 ? I'm pretty sure that's what you said, just wanted to clarify. My confusion is there's a red mark that you placed on the hose you would access from the bottom, just didn't want to confuse the two, sorry for my ignorance
I have the Fox Shocks reservoir in the way on the bottom line.
Thanks for your time and patience
❤ thank you
Thanks for watching!
Thanks from Chile!! 🇨🇱
Thanks for the kind words!
The only thing i would say that is that you should use toyota ws fluid. A master tech for toyota said he's only fixed 2 4runner transmsions in the last 10 years. One of which was due to using the wrong fluid.
Toyota fluids are for people who absolutely cannot bother themselves to find the right information. Do you really need your fluid to say Toyota ATF not to ruin your car? Well youre an ignorant fool. You must work for a dealership. Thats how you get to talk to "master techs" as if that exists in the dealership space. LOL a dealership master tech. Damn i bet hes good. NOT lol
You can use valvoline max life in any newer Toyota transmission. WS is nothing special.
Gracias David... nice video. Chacaloso 👍
Thank you!
Torque for oil filter ..please.. 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Good luck 👍
Does the OBD jump method (pins # 4 & 13) for temperature check also work on 4th gen?
I've watched about 6 of these different approaches to 4runner trans flush, and this is by far the best; right amount of detail without unnecessary inclusion.
Ready now to give it a shot. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and the kind words! I don’t have personal experience with the 4th gen, but have a look at this forum discussion, looks like it might: www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/142830-jump-dcm-transmission-fluid-level-check.html
Yes it works. I had a 2009 4Runner and the jump method works. Works on 2nd gen Tacoma as well.
@4WDExplorer whats the point of this step?
Having the fluid at the right temperature ensures the right amount, by volume, is added. This is because transmission fluid volume changes based on temperature.
@@kdworak4754
Ya know. They make a big deal about getting the temp just right. And I did it per instructions.
But I took 5 gal of the drained fluid in a 5 gal clear container and let it set overnight to 50 degrees, and marked the level at dawn.
The let it set in the sun and gradually heat to 80 degrees.
The level didn't change noticably at all.
Do you know the sequence for tightening the transmission pan bolts Toyota 4runner 2016?
Hey! Thanks for watching! I just used a criss-cross pattern, half torque to all, then around again to full torque. Here is a reference to a helpful discussion: www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/186529-transmission-pan-bolt-torque-specs.html
I just did this on a 2018 4runner. It had 55k miles so I did not drop the pan. 3 1/4 quarts came out. So I did roughly 4 cycles. Not sure why you said 6 cycles you can drain 3 1/4 quarts no problem each time not 2 quarts like you mention.
How were you getting 3.25 qts? Running till the pump pushed no more out? If so, that likely sucked air. Not ideal.
@@TheRayDog when you initially drain the pan you will drain 3 1/4 quarts. So you put 3 1/4 quarts back in. But actually you should put little more fluid back in since when you do the trans fluid check you want excess fluid to come out through the fluid check plug at the very end. I did this in 3 trucks. 2 4Runners and 1 Tacoma. Never 2 quarts came out when doing the first I tail drain. Always 3 ish initially. No air sucked in since I put more in than came out each time.
@@Tacoexplorer Ah, got it. You're talking pan drain. The 2 qts he's talking about come from running the trans with the return line from the rad disconnected.
@@TheRayDog its like he didnt watch the video...
Hi Sir I like to ask a question do you do any sides work I like to change my oil on my transmission Toyota 4Runner2013 limeted please let me know thank you Sir waiting for your answer
Indeed a great video
Thank you!
well done Subbed/shared
Thanks for watching, and for sharing!
Any down sides to using the Maxlife Fluid. Thinking about using the Lucas Oil AtF, over the OEM dealership fluid.
I haven’t noticed any downsides to MaxLife in any of our cars. It’s been in the 4Runner for 60k and counting and been flawless. One theoretical downside is that Toyota uses very specific fluids. I have found Toyota engine oil makes a big difference, but, so far, MaxLife ATF has been fine. I just posted a video on 4Runner engine oil and talk about Toyota’s oil. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the walkthrough. Very helpful. Wondering if you chose 80 inch lbs over 84 inch lbs intentionally to avoid over tightening?
That was my thinking!
Wouldn’t the metal shavings in the dirty oil make it weigh more than the clean oil?
Interesting point! Would be interesting to save some and check against new fluid by volume and weight at the same temperature.
Same here .it is clear that I would take my car to a Toyota technician than expose my transmission to a failure and end costing me 7000 in a new transmission.
@@eliazarmarcano5616 You can do it! You may want to check out the UA-cam channel "A Car Care Nut," as he is a master diagnostic technician and doesn't get quite as deep on the change of filters. I think he has said he's only seen one car, at about 300,000 miles, have any significant debris in the filter. I personally have done three drain and fills, including one where I dropped the pan and changed the transmission filter. The Toyotas, at least, can put up with a lot of abuse and neglect. So, if you can just do a drain & fill at 60,000 mile increments, you will get quite a bit of positive effect out of it. On the RAV4s that I did before, I got over five quarts out by letting them drain for extended amounts of time. I would drain for a half hour, close up the drain and go back and drain a half hour later. I would do that a couple of more times and I got a lot out.
Those intervals and the level of effort also is dependent on whether you are towing, off-roading, driving in heavy traffic. The fluid in those cases needs to be done earlier and more thoroughly.
As an aside, try pricing out OEM fluids, filters and gaskets using Toyota's official parts website. Free shipping over $75 AND many dealerships offer incredible pricing. (My 2014 4Runner transmission filter cost under $50 with the OEM gasket (priced separately). $7.20 per quart of OEM transmission fluid. Shop around!
question .if you measured .why so much fluid out of the measure hole after temp chek .seems odd . thought it would trickle out
Hi David-Good question!
There are three reasons I can think of. 1) The most obvious is I added several extra ounces because I didn’t want to risk having too little fluid. 2) I didn’t just do a drain and fill, I did a flush. The flush introduces a lot of room for mis-measurement (another reasons to err on a few ounces too much). 3) I switched from Toyota WS fluid to Valvoline Maxlife. Since I wasn’t sure the two fluids had the same thermal expansion rates, I erred on the full side. The trickle during the level check is the unambiguous marker the fluid volume is correct. I’d rather waste a little and do it once than have to keep topping it up. Thanks for watching and for the question!
You got me confuse. At 17:01 you saying blue line is return from cooler to transmission, and we have to use this line to flush.
Then at 18:05 you showing red marked hose and saying that this is return line and we have to connect here to flush. (???????)
I can see where that might be confusing! It is the same line. You can use either place to tap onto it. The top access point (17:01) keeps you from having to remove the wheel. I tapped in on the bottom part (shown at 18:05), since I had the wheel off anyway. Good luck!
Why did you do a flush instead of a drain/fill? I always hear people say not to flush. Is it a myth that flushing is bad?
Thanks for watching and commenting! Sorry it took me awhile to reply! I see the process in this video as a middle ground, between drain and fill vs a shop flush. By shop flush, I mean the kind where a shop uses a high pressure machine to push old fluid out and new fluid in. This video just uses the built in transmission pump to push out a little at a time, using the transmission's own pump that is always running when the engine is on. So the pressures used are normal and, at least theoretically less likely to cause damage. The main risk is still, that if the transmission is old and has not been well maintained, it might only be the friction materials floating in the old fluid that are causing the clutch discs to grab. I am curious to know what you end up deciding and how it goes!
question Dave I bought a 2013 last november and am having shudder and slip issues on low accelerationt he toyota dealership was surposed to change all flids before delivery but Im not convinced that was done, just the reality of mistrust with dealers, so I watched the flush video and thought that would be the cure Id apreciate your thoughts, thanks Dave, please continue to make more videos your the best educator
They do that on purpose. Anyone who works for a dealership in either the service or service sales positions are true scum of the earth.
Drain and fill only
Wasn't that transmission fluid dirty I thought it is to be red
It certainly was dirty! Part of why I chose to change it all. Thanks for watching!
Very helpfull information. Thank you sir. Do you think flush would help getting rid of transmission shudder 1st to 2nd gear? My car has that problem 2011 T4R trail edition at 103k now.
Thank you for the kind words! It is certainly possible the shudder could be related to low or old fluid. While I didn’t have a shudder shifting was sluggish and the ‘flush’ really improved shifting on my 4Runner, even at 70K miles. A similar procedure on my old Ranger got rid of the 1 - 2 shudder, but I think that had more to do with the fluid level being low to begin with. Good luck!
I know this is really late. I'd never flush at 103k for a first ATF procedure. Drain and fill only. Should be changed at 60k unless driven off-road, towing or in heavy traffic (then sooner). Lifetime or 100k advice by Toyota is just crazy late
@@kimbuck-2 I will address two things here, coolant and transmission fluid because both often get flushed. Doing a flush involves pushing or sucking fluid through. Whenever you're dealing with something that is over its recommended change cycle, you could be dealing with additives that have expired and no longer prevent build up, corrosion/sludge, protecting the seals and gaskets of a component, rubber and metal lines, etc. So, in theory, without those additives protecting the internals of a device, suddenly pushing through new fluid can also break loose sludge/crud, breakthrough seals, clog up solenoids/thermostats that help route the fluid.
At that point, a drain and fill will restore additives into the system, albeit at a lower percentage but it will help keep things alive without screwing up any components. Most manufacturers recommend a 7 to 9 year cycle at 100 or 150,000 miles for coolant... On its initial OEM factory installed fluid. Those cycles are cut in half for the second phase coolant fill. So, instead of 100,000 miles, most manufacturers will say 50,000 miles. I believe that is to take into account that the longer an engine runs, the corrosion rate increases but I would also imagine that they are taking into account that most people are draining and filling and leaving some of the older fluid behind. With my coolant drain and fill experience, I also opened up the engine block drain and got a literal 50% of the fluid out.
For transmissions, follow what the manufacturer is recommend without recommending it overtly. If they warranty their vehicles transmission for 5 years or 60,000 miles, do your fluid changes at 60,000 miles. Probably the most neglected of regular service items, some people will do a drain and fill repeatedly over time. That is preferable to a traditional flush. The concern is how far over the recommended cycle has that fluid gone and how much wear and tear to the internal components has occurred. If too much where has occurred, some of the clutch materials may be floating loose in the transmission fluid and is actually needed for the clutches to grab each other to change gears. Doing a complete fluid flush could then expose new problems. Mechanics will sometimes, if working on a transmission that hasn't been maintained properly, actually save the transmission fluid and refill it once the work is done. This puts those particulates back into the system so the clutch will grab.
What I've chosen to do is a drain and fill as close to 60,000 miles as possible and then go on a 30,000 mile interval with drain and fills. The exceptions for me are my prius, I will do those at 50,000 mile intervals. With that said, all of my family's Toyotas, minus the Prius, we're bought used and I do not know how they were driven. Some have service records indicating that they have had transmission fluid flushes at proper intervals. Others have not. On those that did not have other reported transmission services, I actually drop the pan and replace the filter. That also gives me an opportunity to inspect and see if large chunks are in there showing possible damage. When I do that, I get about 50% of the fluid out. I think my RAV4, with a u760e transmission, the 5.5 quarts is a little over 50%.
I learned about flushing early on when I trashed my Ford truck by doing a flush 10 years after the fluid had expired and 10,000 miles over its stated life. I really screwed that up and ended up selling it at a big loss.
Was thinking maybe bring it to the dealer to deal with, then watching this, na, this is simple.
I would follow the manual about how many quarts needed
FANTASTIC video! +1 Subscriber
Thanks for the feedback, and for subscribing!!
Excuse me if you already mentioned it, how many quarts did you use for the return line clear hose start to show the new fluid?
I used a total of 13 quarts for the whole process, if memory serves. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment!
@@fixityfix thank you
How much oil does the transmission use? greetings from Chile 🇨🇱
7:50 Transmission fluid eats paint.😂
My overflow plug fell off while driving and i lost a good amount of fluid but was only about 300 yrds away from home. I ordered a replacement plug and Toyota doesnʻt have that HEX bolt, they sold me a regular bolt that looks like the drain plug. It fits so would that matter?
Glad you were close to home when it happened! I can’t say for sure, but I’d be inclined to trust the Toyota dealer parts folks. Let me know how it goes!
@@fixityfix so far so good. Fitted good and no leaks 👍🏾
How often do you do this?
Thanks for watching! Every 40-60k for the flush.
Sir i have a 4runner with a 2TR FE engine , can you let me know how much transmission fluid it takes in litters? Thank you
I just recently did the flush and change to my truck and it started slipping as I got on the highway? I obviously did something wrong? Can you help me out
How many miles are on the vehicle? In any case, I’d start troubleshooting by carefully going through the temperature/fluid level procedure- often slipping is a result of too little (or even too much fluid). And these transmissions are super sensitive to fluid level. If that doesn’t address the slippage, I’d suggest getting it assessed by a reputable local transmission shop. Good luck!
You have to drive when the desh is blinking you said you drive for little wile??
Thanks for watching! I don’t drive it when *in* temperature check mode. I sometimes drive before to accelerate the warm up process.
@@fixityfix hay I got it it worked good but I had to add more fluid I don't know but my car took like 13 and half I don't get it it's limited
“That will do pig”. Lol
How many miles did you have on your Toyota before you did that
Around 70,000 miles.
Do you run an auxiliary trans cooler?
I don’t use an auxiliary transmission cooler. If we did more towing I’d consider one. Are you running one?
What brand of fluid pump are you using?
Hi Charlie, thanks for the comments, especially the kind words! This is my first 4Runner too, I love that it’s still body-on-frame. The pump I use is a Motive: www.motiveproducts.com/products/powerfill-pro-1-gallon-tank
@@fixityfix Awesome, I just ordered one for myself! Thanks again
Can you jump the pins in OBD ports 4 and thirteen, on 4th generation 4Runners?
I haven’t worked on the 4th gen, but check out this thread for more authoritative info: www.4runners.com/threads/checking-sealed-transmission-fluid-level.1432/
@@fixityfix Thank You,
I just used a thermal scanner underneath the pan to check the temperature around 75%.
knowing that the temperature will go up. So far it seems to be holding within the recommended temperature.
10 THUMBS UP !!!
So when can I drop my 5th gen for service? LoL
If you find yourself in Roanoke, VA, come on by and we can geek out on 5th gen trivia!
@@fixityfix I was hoping you would say Roanoke, TX. If i was close by I def would come by!
Thank you Colin Robinson. Lol. But for real thank you.
Hahaha! Don’t get me started on the nutritional value of cyber-draining! 🧛♂️
@@fixityfix Oh my God, thank you for getting that. I don't know what it was maybe your voice or that you look kind of like him if you wore glasses, but I instantly thought of him. Again thank you for the informative video and for not getting offended.
love the video, but always use toyota ws fluid ONLY.
WS isn't a terribly good fluid. Evidence from 3rd party testing shows poor thermal breakdown characteristics. This is a rare instance where a manufacturer's fluid is clearly inferior to others.
If you change it regularly you will never have any issues with WS. Don’t try to sell me on Amsoil superiority.
Wrong line to add, need to go through the red line.
Hi Sir, If you love your eyes you wear safety glasses all the time. Now to torque those bolts, you lose them and torque again. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the torque tip and the important safety reminder!
@@fixityfix my pleasure... keep it safe.
You could have a nice revenue stream just doing two of these jobs a day.
LOL, yes! It goes much more quickly the second time ;-)
Good Idea. So many damn 4runners out there.
I would never flush the transmission. You’ll remove all the metal shavings.
279,000 miles on a Lexus GX460, never changed Tranny fluid. Buddy has same truck, changed fluid every 45k. His tranny went out at 165k. When it comes to Toyota (Lexus) trannys, if its not broke, don't fix it.
Do you know if he used Toyota WS fluid or aftermarket?
That's awful advice. The trans fluid wears out just like engine oil, diff fluids, t-case fluid, coolant, etc.
Do you share the same logic about changing engine oil?
"If the engine hasn't thrown a rod don't worry about it".
@@MrCherrygrovedude classic response and spot on l
Im too wealthy to do this one myself..my time and patience can be better spent doing other things…
Why cant you just drain and fill…why does it gotta be 48 steps, 35 cycles…jumping obd…temperature measurement….
The differentials, transfer and oil take ten minutes…this is an all day job, need two people…no thanks, ill pay the $200
Lol. I do miss the simpler old school systems.