Fluid Service on a 5th Gen 4Runner
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- Опубліковано 8 січ 2023
- This video is intended to help anyone who may be unsure about working on their own 4Runner. It shows how to change front and rear differential fluid, transfer case fluid, and oil on a 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner.
#toyoya #4runner #overlanding #valvoline #maintenance - Авто та транспорт
Just did my first ever oil change this morning. Later in the day, I've stumbled upon your video. Now I've got the confidence to do a full fluid service on my 4Runner. Thank you so much for such a concise, easy-to-follow tutorial. I really appreciate people like you sharing knowledge so we can take care of our own things.
You’re more than welcome! That’s exactly why I made the video, so I’m glad it helped.
Thanks for watching!
Super helpful. Got my 40k service today and Toyota said for all the fluids was gonna be over $900. Fuck that I’m doing it myself now lol
Thanks so much for watching!! I’m glad I could help. It really does pay to do the work yourself! Thanks again!
$900 for fluid service is Criminal... wow
I just picked up a baby 2023 T4R Limited with 3700 miles on it. When they told me the prices of the extended warranty, I told the Finance Manager that he was probably the only person that I know in my lifetime that made a car sale and lost a customer inside of an hour. I have a Service Garage a block from me. The owner is a super nice guy, he has about a dozen techs working for him, and he is just as busy as some of the neighborhood dealers, if not busier. He is going to get all my business. He is already helping our son keep his 1989 Pontiac Firebird running like new!!!!
There ya go, simple tasks a man should know 👍
great video. its amazing to see how clean a car can be without salt and sand all winter lol.
I appreciate you watching! I live in eastern North Carolina, so not much snow and ice around here. Plus, I always spray the undercarriage after off roading.
Take care of it
@@bluelineoffroadyou do it right
Weak axle
@@davevolz6138 Not really sure what you mean by a weak axle. It’s the axle that comes stock on the 4Runner, but thanks for watching!
Thank you sir! We appreciate you taking the time to film and post this.
You’re more than welcome!! I enjoy doing it, so hopefully it helps.
Thanks for watching!
Bill, your video is very well done and very informative. Thank you for your effort.
Thank you very much! I really appreciate your comments, and for watching!
You did a really nice job taking us through this pleasant chore. I have a new 4Runner on the way so you just ejucated me a great deal on these tasks. THANK YOU!
You’re more than welcome! I’m glad you liked the video, and hopefully it does help you when you go to do service on your 4Runner. I know that I made the work look easy, but it really is that easy.
Thanks for watching!
I really appreciate the clear video shots under the truck. Everything was really easy to see and identify.
I really appreciate your positive feedback. Thanks for watching!
Sir,
Thank you for this video. I am going to follow this and plan to walk through each of the fluid replacements. Again, thank you. Lots of $$$$ saved with doing it yourself. Thanks for talking the time to create the video
Thanks so much for your comments! I really hope it helps, and trust me when I say that it isn’t very hard. You WILL save a bunch of money!
Thanks for watching!
Best video I've seen on the internet regarding 5th gen fluid changes. TY You taught me plenty about my truck!!!!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate your positive feedback.
Thanks for watching!
My 2014 5th gen 4runner has 205,000 miles on it and I’ve done all my own maintenance including the transmission drain and fill - never had any issues and it still drives like when I got it - also Never used a crush washer or torque wrench just nice and tight will do it - always keep an eye out the day after though just to make sure there’s no drips 😂
Very nice! Some will argue about the crush washer, but like I mentioned in the video, they really aren’t necessary, and your experience is proof of that.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the simple, no-nonsense procedures. Well done, Brother.
I really appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks for watching!
This is one of the best videos and so well explained that i have seen on this subject. Thanks sir for putting it all together.
Thank you so much for the positive feedback! I’ve been working on cars for over 40 years, and I wish I had a resource like UA-cam when I was first learning. I’m glad you found it helpful.
Thanks for watching!
Great Job. Very knowledgeable, clear explanation, a real teacher. Bravo.
Thank you very much! I really appreciate the positive feedback.
Thanks for watching!
Watched it again. And I'll be watching a few times to catch all the details. Good stuff
I’m glad it’s helping. Follow it along as you do the service. That may help you even more.
Thanks for watching!
Just got a 4Runner SR5 Premium. This video helps immensely, thank you!
Congratulations on the new 4Runner. Take care of it and it will last you for many years! I’m glad this video helps. That’s exactly why I made it.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks! This was great info. Also that orange cat that walks around is so cute!❤
Thanks for watching! I think I mentioned the cat is named Peanut. He’s a pretty good cat.
Thanks again!
Very helpful Thank you for showing us , it is much appreciated
I dont feel intimidated about it like I was . Your the best man Thanks again
I appreciate the feedback. Thanks so much for watching!
The most useful video I've ever seen. Thank you SO much.
Thank you so much for the positive feedback! I made the video to be helpful for people, so I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for watching!
This is one of the most simplistic & straightforward tutorials for servicing the driveline for a 5th gen 4Runner! I'm going to eventually do my wife's '16 and it's got 56K on it, but I'm not worried about the wear or filth content since Toyota makes durable precision equipment; hers only sees light daily duty.
I decided on new washer asstmnt. just because I'm anal with possible leakage (I'm a Diesel mechanic so I do tons of routine maintenance). Try not to wear out your torque wrench to remove fasteners, but rather pick up some cheap breaker bars at HF, which is where your torque wrench came from!
With encouraging videos such as yours many newbies should take consideration to tackle these jobs themselves because labor rates never go down in price! Thanks man!!
I really appreciate the comments! I totally understand the issue with the torque wrench. I was really just being lazy and didn’t want to get my breaker bar from my toolbox. Again, I really appreciate the positive feedback, particularly from a mechanic. Thanks for watching!
@@bluelineoffroad Yeah, you’re right because I get lazy like that too & besides, those HF torque wrenches are cheap, but I learned to never drop one or it’ll be ruined. Thanks again!
Great job and thanks for the well documented video!!!
I really appreciate your comments. Thanks for watching!
I was nervous about doing this service myself. Not now. I do my oil changes myself so these other things look super easy. Nice video
Thanks so much for the positive feedback. That’s exactly why I did the video, so I’m glad it helped.
Thanks for watching!
What I do for Diff/Manual Trans oil changes is have both fill and drain plugs out and pump new oil in fill hole to push out a bit more of the old oil. I also don't mind using the pump since doing maintenance is like therapy. Something about it gives me a warm fuzzy feeling. Great video!
That’s actually not a bad idea, especially if it’s been a while since you’ve performed the service. It helps to get all of the old fluid out. As for the work being therapeutic, I totally agree!
Thanks for watching!
this was great ! you made this really simple to do.
Excellent! I’m glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Absolutely love this tutorial! Never worked on a car before, about to buy a used 4Runner with 50k miles and this will be the first thing I’m doing while watching this video!
I really appreciate the positive feedback. This is exactly why I made the video, so I’m glad it helped give you the confidence to do the work yourself.
Thanks for watching!
Great video!! Keep up the good content really was a good step by step video. Definitely going to be a god reference when I do the work !!
I really appreciate the positive comments. Thanks so much for watching!
New Sub after watching this super easy, detailed video! I now know I can replace all the fluids on my own and save a ton of 💰 🤑 💰
Glad to hear it. That’s exactly why I made the video, so I’m glad it helped.
Thanks for watching!
Finally! Someone that knows what he's doing!, Thank you sir! Suscribed!
Thank you very much. I really appreciate the positive feedback.
Thanks for subscribing, and for watching!
Great simple to follow video
Thank you so much for your comments. I appreciate you watching!
Super video! Very clear, thank you.
I appreciate the positive feedback! Thanks so much for watching!
You did an awesome job on showing us how to do maintenance on our Toyota's!! My I suggest the only thing you may want to consider next time when working on your vehicle is to always wear latex gloves and eye protection! Keep up the good work...
Thanks so much for the positive feedback! I usually use work gloves while working on my vehicles, and I actually tried to use them while filming this video, but I wasn’t able to work my phone and camera. The touchscreen simply wouldn’t work with with the gloves.
Thanks again!
Good job on the video. These engine oil dipsticks are notoriously difficult to read especially with clean oil. When you remove the dipstick it pulls some oil into dipstick tube skewing the reading. Multiple quick insertions just seem to make it worse. Good tip I learned on my 4Runner was leave the dipstick out for 5mins between insertions. Makes a world of difference reading the dipstick accurately. Also truck must be on level ground when changing fluids.
Yes, these dipsticks are difficult to read. In fact, most are difficult after an oil change, but you get better at it once you’ve done it for a while. Plus, it really helps when you know how much oil you’ve already added, so you’re only looking for the difference.
Thanks for watching!
Great job!! Thanks from Chile🇨🇱
Thank you very much! I appreciate you watching!
Very useful video man. Thank you a lot. Just trying to do my own stuff on my 4r now. I hate dealerships
I appreciate the positive feedback. That was exactly the reason why I made the video, so hopefully you’ll have good luck doing your own work.
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Just did all the fluid changes today based on your video. Appreciate it! Would love to see a full transmission flush video
Thanks so much for watching. I’m glad the video helped. I won’t be doing the transmission service until at least 60,000 miles, and when I do, it will probably only be a drain and fill, not a flush.
Thanks again!
@@bluelineoffroadonly drain and fill no flushes
@@bluelineoffroad Exactly what I’d like to see! Great video you did here on the diffs, would be great to see your instruction on a drain and fill for the transmission
@@damon323 Thanks for your comment. I won’t be doing any service on the transmission for another 20,000 miles or so. When I do, it will only be a drain and fill.
Thanks for watching!
Don’t flush, remove fill bolt, drain, remove the pan, remove the filter, replace the filter, clean the pan with brake cleaner, wipe well, lube the edge of pan, put drain plug back in pan, put new gasket on , carefully set all 20 pan screws, tighten slowly left to right and back and forth, once all are 90% tight go around clockwise and final set each bolt, refill WS automatic transmission fluid from Toyota, put fill plug back in, run the truck and go through all the gears for a few minutes to get the fluid up to temperature, the fluid expands with the heat, open the fill plug one more time, let the over fluid run out, replace the fill plug, do it again every 30k miles. Some say 60k. It’s up to you, fluid is cheaper than a new tranny. You do not get all of the fluid out. Takes 6 quarts or so. Tranny hold 11 plus quarts. Good luck!
Good video. Well made. Very clear. Thanks
I’m glad you enjoyed it, and I hope it helps you.
Thanks for watching!
Just bought a 2024 last year Gen 5 Toyota 4Runner. I decided to do my own oil changes (@5K) between the dealer service interval of 10K miles. Your video is very helpful and I am always open to any mechanical knowledge that I can learn about the Gen 5 4Runner. Thanks!
Thanks so much for your comments, and I’m very glad you found the video helpful. That’s exactly why I do these videos, so again, I’m glad it helped.
As for allowing the dealer to work on your new 4Runner, I’m not sure I would recommend that. I’m sure there are some good dealerships out there, but my experience hasn’t been all that positive. Your “free” oil changes will really only amount to two of them, so you’re really not getting much for free. Plus, what’s your time worth when you have to take your time and gas driving there, sitting in their waiting area, then your time and gas driving back? Contrary to what many might believe, dealer techs often over tighten oil filter housings, strip or lose skid pan bolts, or any number of other things that they might do to your brand new $50,000 4Runner. Again, you just might want to rethink the dealer for anything other than warranty work. Plus, you’re already doing the oil changes yourself, so you know how to do it. Just my thoughts.
Thanks again for watching!
Good stuff. This is exactly what I needed to learn Subbed
I really appreciate it. That’s exactly why I did the video, so I’m glad it helped.
Thanks for watching!
You did a good job Sir, hope to see a brake job service (brake rotors and pads, brake fluid flush). What a great video, by the way.
Thank you for your comment! I’ve already done a full brake job (did not replace the rotors), so I unfortunately won’t be doing a video of that anytime soon. I will say that it wasn’t difficult, and there are several good videos already on UA-cam that show how to do this service.
Thanks again for your comment and for watching!
Thank you nice and clear video learned a lot …thanks from California
I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for the positive feedback, and for watching!
great job -good explanation too.
I really appreciate the positive feedback.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, great video. 👍🏻
I really appreciate your comments. Thanks for watching!
Pretty good. I did front and rear diff and transfer case on my tundra a year or so back. Not too bad. I will definitely be buying a fluid transfer pump of some kind to fill them with next time lol. My arms and shoulders were so sore the next day lol. This way you can pour ALL the fluid in the pump. Pump it with pressure and fill each one pretty quick. Good video👍
Thanks for your comments. I’ve always used Valvoline gear oil, so I was happy when they started using the bags instead of the plastic bottles. The bags make it so much easier to get the fluid where you need it. Plus, there’s no clean up.
Thanks for watching!
@@bluelineoffroad I used mobil1 for mine lol. Did not have the cool squeeze bottle. Lesson learned hehe.
Great job brother.
Thank you so much! I appreciate the positive feedback, and thanks for watching!
Nice job calming voice helps 😊I was thinking to add new Fluid and let it flow out all the old fluid! Might be going to far! I do for oil pan just putting in 1/4 of quart! In our old x5 BMW 2010 with 239,000 miles on it actually my Daughter’s now! My wife drive 2020 x5 rocket 🚀 ship! I did all front end work on older one upper and lower control arms! After doing that I do most work on all of are vehicles! Just wanted to refresh my memory! Thanks
Thanks for the comments. I’ve also considered adding new fluid to flush out more of the old, but I ultimately decided that it wasn’t really worth it. I warm everything up before draining, so the old fluid drains very well.
I appreciate you doing your own work. It definitely pays, not just monetarily, but also knowing that the work was done correctly.
Thanks for watching!
Nice video thanks and cute cat.
Thanks so much for commenting. I’m glad it was helpful. I’ll tell our cat, Peanut, about your message.
Thanks for watching!
Congratulations!!!!!!!
Hey man, I just wanted to say thank you so freaking much man! As a long time car enthusiast and younger fella these videos really help give me confidence to tackle these sorts of jobs. I don't trust the dealers or even my long term mechanics to do the job right and decided I'd tackle my first time major fluid service (30k on the 4runner) myself. You're the best man, god bless and stay safe out there :)
Thank you so much for your comments! It really means alot that you took the time to write something so positive. I’m glad the video helped.
Thanks for watching!
Great video with good angles showing which bolts to loosen and where the fill plugs are. On your next video can show how to lubricate the propellor shaft?
Thanks for watching! I just lubed the propeller shafts, so it will be a year or so before I do it again. It’s actually very easy to do. There are three fittings on the front drive downs three on the rear.
great video and super impressed you keep your white shirt clean
I appreciate the positive feedback. It’s actually not a white shirt. It’s beige, and I have a bunch of them that I have leftover from work. They’re moisture wicking and great for working on cars and lawn work.
Thanks for watching!
Great video.
I had to laugh out loud when you said you always over tighten your engine oil drain plug, after watching you "sneak" about three to five extra ft lbs of torque on all the other bolts.
Funny, but you just made me laugh as well because you're the only one who has noticed that so far. It's kinda like a security blanket for me to push it a few more pounds. Plus, my torque wrench has some age on it, so I'm not sure it's totally accurate. I really need to invest in a new one to help ensure that I have torqued everything down correctly.
Thanks for watching!
@@bluelineoffroad Just watched the video and noticed this as well. Since it's your machine, it's your right to tighten as much as you want and will likely never cause damage. For you audience though, stopping the moment the wrench clicks is correct.
Just got a 4Runner and looking forward to doing that to mine.
Thanks for the comments. What year is your 4Runner and what is the mileage?
2017 trd off road 80,000. Miles in great shape.
@@pgoncalves007 Excellent! I would also recommend doing a drain and fill on your transmission. It’s a little different than most because there is no dipstick, but look up The Car Care Nut on UA-cam. He has a video that shows exactly how to do it.
Thanks for watching!
LOL screw the crush washers, I was shocked by the 12pt socket on 6 pt fasteners... no not really. just had to comment to pull your leg. Damn good video. showing just how simple fluid services can be. with minimal tools needed!
Thanks for watching! I hear you about the crush washers. They’re recommended, but certainly not required. I appreciate you watching and the positive feedback!
New sub here based on these important T4R maintainance video. How to see more tips on the future👍🏽
Thanks for your comments. I have other videos on the way, many of which are not necessarily maintenance related, but rather product reviews which may also be very helpful.
Stay tuned and thanks for watching!
Great video. I did my driveline, minus the transmission, back in October on my 2021 4Runner TRD ORP. I also used Valvoline Full Synthetic 75W90 SynPower GL5 in both my front/rear differential’s as well as in my transfer case. Most dealers don’t even use the Toyota 75W gear oil due to cost and availability. 75W90 is more than good for all three as long as they meet GL5 Specs, which this oil does. Mine were done at 41,862 miles and weren’t that bad either. My rear diff had some fine shavings on the plug, but the others had a lot less- very minimal & all not too dirty and have never been done prior. I’m taking my truck into Toyota to do the tranny fluid in the next couple of months because I don’t have a way to check fluid temps and with the cost of the Toyota WS ATF these days, my dealer charges $320 for the service. Not bad honestly. If I had a way to check the temp myself I’d do it myself, but one day I’ll buy a Toyota specific scanner so that I can. Appreciate the video.
God bless~
Edit: PS yes, every 5K miles on the 0W20 oil. Even dealers are now recommending 5k even though Toyota, at one point, said 10k and “lifetime tranny fluid” lol which I believe is 50k/60k hard use/daily driver mileage recs.
Thanks so much for your comments! I’ll be doing my transmission pretty soon as I’m getting close to 60,000 miles. It’s really not that difficult to do yourself, and you can find a scanner to do the job for around $100. Not only do I not trust dealers very much, it also gives me the peace of mind knowing that it was done right.
Thanks again for your comments, and for watching!
God bless you as well!
@@bluelineoffroad yeah I’m hoping you do a video on that as well. We’ve all seen car care nut do it, but would love to see your video of it too.
Appreciate it!
Great job 👏
Thanks so much for your comment. I really appreciate it.
Thanks for watching!
great video
I really appreciate it! I should have more videos coming soon, mostly product reviews, so keep watching. Thanks again!
Nice video ,bI really enjoy it even if I don't have this vehicle !
Thanks for the comments. Even though you may not have this particular vehicle, it’s basically the same regardless of what vehicle you may have. These components are simply drain and fill, so it’s a very simple process.
Thanks for watching!
@@bluelineoffroad thank you for your encouragement . Keep up with more videos
Thanks for making the video!
One thing about the torque wrench, you should release it right after the click instead of keep pulling it further, because otherwise it'll be slightly over torqued by about a hair.
Thanks for tour feedback, and I totally understand how a torque wrench works. I’ve always added a little “extra” when tightening things just for my peace of mind.
Thanks for watching!
Nice educational video. New sub
I appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks for watching!
Great video. You should get the oil pan drain plug from fumoto. Never have to un thread a drain plug and make a mess ever again. Just flip a lever and let the oil drain. I’ve used them for years now
Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I’ve actually thought about getting one, but just never have. I haven’t found that it would really save me much time since it’s just one bolt, and I have to remove others just to access the area. But, I may look into it.
Thanks for watching!
Check engine light?
@@seanpeacock6848 nope. Just a better drain plug. It simply turns a messy drain bolt into a petcock that is mess free. Simply flip a lever, and no more oil on your hands or tools ever again. Also my favorite benefit is if you take it anywhere for an oil change, no more worrying if someone used an impact wrench putting your drain plug back in, or ruining the threads on the oil pan
Check engine light for what?
Hope it's not an expensive torque wrench.. as loosening bolts with it isn't good for it. Just put a short pipe on the smaller ratchet if you dont have a larger ratchet or breaker.Great to DIY ! Save lots of money for sure. Nice that you filmed it for the audience . I did not know the transfer and front took such a small amount. Totally agree on the 5K interval.
Thanks for watching. No, the torque wrench wasn’t expensive, so I’m not real worried about it. I don’t have pipes lying around, and I was honestly too lazy to go get my breaker bar. The torque wrench is what I had available, so that’s what I used.
Thanks again for watching!
@@bluelineoffroad You may actually want to use Oem Products for the Toyota fluids.
@@bigfootswatching9986 Thanks for the suggestion, but it’s totally not necessary. The OEM 75W fluid is incredibly expensive, and also extremely difficult to find. I contacted a certified Toyota technician who told me that 75W-90 was not only acceptable to use, it was actually widely used for the differentials and transfer case. Further, I don’t know anyone who actually uses OEM motor oil for routine oil changes, but there are many who use Toyota oil filters. The only area where I will use OEM fluids is the transmission.
Thanks again for your comments.
@@bluelineoffroadhey Bigfoot, often times OEM fluids are manufactured by companies like Valvoline
Good video!
Thanks alot. I really appreciate the positive feedback.
Thanks for watching!
I learned the hard way to let the lube stop dripping after filling, in my case the right rear axle seal, I only put the plug back before it was done and that's all it takes
Wow, I’ve never heard of that! I would understand if it were a lot of fluid, but just because it was still dripping a little? That’s good to know.
Thanks for watching!
Good video .
Thanks so much for the positive feedback, and for watching!
Great stuff!
Thanks so much! I really appreciate you watching!
@@bluelineoffroad absolutely! Just changed brakes and rotors this past Wednesday. I get a shimmy in my steering wheel at about 60-65 mph. I’ve had tires balanced and rebalanced, and I read somewhere it could have been a warped rotor, but it still shimmies. I’m guessing wheel bearing or control arms.
I’ll probably do the service on your bud the next time I’m due an oil change. The Oil change place stripped out my front skid plate nuts last time I had it done. Can you access the filter without taking it off?
@@adamcordell7750 Well, about the shimmy, the problem may be the needle bearing. Look it up on UA-cam and you’ll see that it’s one of those nagging things about the 4Runner
Now, about the skid plate, there is an access panel for the drain plug, but you need to remove the skid plate in order to access the filter. If the bolts are truly stripped, maybe get a dye set and retap the holes to a slightly larger size. You can then just use larger bolts.
Yet one more reason to do the work yourself! Thanks again for your comments, and for watching!
Great video and thanks for sharing! I was nervous to work on my own 4Runner but seeing your video and others give me the confidence to give it a shot next weekend. What brand of torque wrench do you have?
Thanks for watching! I’m glad to hear that you’re going to tackle this yourself. As I said, it really isn’t that hard, and you’ll get the satisfaction of doing the work yourself. As for my torque wrench, I purchased it at Harbor Freight several years ago. It’s worked well for me, and it didn’t cost as much as many of the others.
Thanks again for watching.
You mentioned the crush washers. I’ve never changed on…oil pan or otherwise in my life. Never had an issue.
Yep, I usually don’t with oil, but I change it every 5,000 miles. I would typically use them with things like differentials and the transfer case, but I didn’t this time, and haven’t had any issues.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the vid. It would have been good to show the oil/fluid type (from the bags you used) used for the rear differential and transfer case.
I appreciate the comments, but I used the same fluid (Valvoline 75W-90) for both differentials as well as the transfer case. It’s shown at the beginning of the video as well as when I was using the bags.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. I now feel completely capable of doing this myself on my 4th Gen. What should I look for in a power ratchet and what drive 10mm hex should I buy? Thanks.
Thanks for your positive feedback. There are so many options for tools on the market, it’s hard for me to suggest any particular manufacturer. The power ratchet that I use is really just for convenience and saving time. It’s a cheap Chinese knockoff that I bought on line, but it does what I bought it to do.
As for the particular 10 mm hex, I would be a little more particular about those types of tools. My hex heads are made by Kobalt (bought at Lowe’s) and have worked well so far. However, I would recommend any reputable manufacturer which offers a lifetime warranty. I know those are typically more expensive, but they end up being cheaper since you only buy them once. I’m actually still using some tools that I bought decades ago. I have a good friend who races cars and has a full auto shop in his detached garage, and he shares my opinion about those types of tools.
Thanks so much for watching!
I like to fill the filter housing with oil before installing it. Builds up oil pressure much faster on the first engine start after an oil change.
That’s actually a very good idea. I have an oil change coming up soon, so I may try that.
Thanks for watching!
Does Pre-FILLING The Oil FILTER Cause Engine DAMAGE?
ua-cam.com/video/939WTeorBnQ/v-deo.htmlsi=6e6cQZ5na2OVXfCI
PROTECT THIS MAN AT ALL COST
I appreciate that!! I’ll actually be releasing another video in a week or two of a drain and fill on the transmission, so keep an eye out if you’re looking to do that service soon.
Thanks for watching!
Don’t forget the vent cap. Make sure the top turns freely. It’s on top of axle housing.
You know, you’re exactly right. I neglected to include that in the video. My 4Runner only had 40,000 miles on it at the time of the video, so I didn’t even think about it, but should have checked it anyway.
Thanks for watching!
You can add a short length of clear tubing to the tip to make it easier to fill the front Diff.
I appreciate the suggestion, but it’s very easy to fill both differentials and transfer case using the bags from Valvoline. It’s a very easy service to perform on the 5th Gen 4Runner
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for showing! I do my oil changes on my '07, but was nervous about "the fluids". My mechanic wanted to charge me: $80 for the Rear Diff. and $180 for the Trans fluid with replacing the pan gasket. You have saved me a ton of money Sir! Are you able to post the links for your tools?
Thank you so much for your positive feedback! I really do appreciate your support, and also for taking the time to send this message. That’s exactly why I do these videos, to help others get the confidence to do the work yourself. It really isn’t that difficult, and you’ll get the satisfaction of doing the work yourself.
You said that you’re working on your own 2007 4Runner, so I’m glad you’re doing it. However, I’m not familiar with the 4th Gen models, so I don’t know how different they might be from the 5th Gen. You might want to do a little more research on your particular model to make sure you’re doing everything correctly.
My tools? Well, I wish I could provide links, but I really can’t. It’s a hodgepodge of tools from various companies, so I really can’t remember where I bought them. I know that many of my socket tools were from one of the big box stores (Lowe’s, Home Depot), and some tools were even from Harbor Freight. I know that many tend to shy away from Harbor Freight, but they’ve always worked well for my needs. I don’t know that I would buy their products if I were a professional mechanic, but again, they work well for what I need.
Thanks again for your positive feedback. I really do appreciate it. Thanks for watching!
Reusing the aluminum flat type crush washer is perfectly OK. As an engine Machinist and Builder of 28 years, I do recommend the following before reusing the washer. Inspect the washer. You will see marks where the washer crushed and did not crush. This were you should recondition both sides of the washer by lightly sanding or lightly filing until you achieve an uniform surface. Maker sure to apply uniform pressure during this procedure. Occasionally turning and hold down at different points on the washer in between passes across the sandpaper or file is an adequate way to achieve a new surface.
Thanks 🙏 sir
Thanks so much for taking the time to comment. I really appreciate it.
Liked and subscribed
Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching!
@@bluelineoffroad Thank you for making this video. I just bought a 2023 and thinking of working on it myself.
Please do your own maintenance. No one cares for your vehicle like you do, especially dealers! It really isn’t that hard, and you’ll not only save a ton of money, but you’ll know that the job was done right!
@@bluelineoffroad Roger! Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the excellent tutorial! Do you have a recommendation of how often to change the differential & transfer case fluid? I have a 2022 4Runner Limited with 10K miles. Also, I just did my first oil change on the 4Runner but the drain plug washer is stuck on the oil pan. This is the first oil change since new and I'm not sure why it is stuck. Since I can't get the washer off, I'm re-using it. Hopefully nothing leaks.
Thanks so much for watching! My recommendation for changing the fluid in both differentials and transfer case is around every 30,000-40,000 miles. I know that the owners manual doesn’t recommend that it be done that regularly, but I actually use my four wheel drive system. So, my opinion is that it’s pretty cheap insurance policy to help protect major driveline components.
About your stuck crush washer, I know that can be frustrating. You should be able to get it off by “gently” using a broad flat head screwdriver. Don’t be too aggressive with it as you may dent your oil pan. The broader the screwdriver, the better! I’ve changed my oil several times without using new crush washers, so you should be fine. However, I do plan to replace the washers at my next oil change.
Thanks again!
@@bluelineoffroad Thanks for the info. Looks like I still have quite a few ways to go before the differential oil change.
I'll try the flat screw driver tapping method next time when doing the oil change. I feel better now that you mentioned you have used the old washer several times without any issues. Thanks again.
I give the cat all the credit. 🐈
I appreciate that. Peanut is a huge help! I couldn’t do it without him!
Thanks for watching!
A lot of diffs don’t have a drain plug,you have to take the cover off and then clean prep the sealing surface and reseal with rtv or a new gasket. Drain plug is much easier but but you don’t get to visually check your gears.
You’re exactly right. I had a F-150 that did not have a drain plug, so I had to remove the cover to drain the fluid. Plugs do make it so much easier, but as you said, you don’t really have the opportunity to visually check your gears for potential problems. However, examining the fluid for chunks of metal should give you clues as to whether or not your gears are damaged.
Thanks for watching!
Tip for future videos. Move your hand so people can get an idea of and see the condition of the fluid when you drain it.
Not a bad idea. I’ll try to remember next time.
Thanks for watching!
What a great show! Hello Bill, I am a new 4R owner and wondering the following:
1. You briefly mentioned crush washers, but when changing the rear diff, transfer case, and the front diff, am I supposed to use new crush washers? Or the 4R is designed in such a way that there is not crush washers? (I previously own a Honda and I do my fluid change, I changed the above-noted three with new washers).
2. Lots of people change the oil filter housing to a metal one thinking the plastic isn’t good and prone to leaking. In your opinion, should I also change it or the one comes from factory is the best - I live in Canada and there are some harsh winters.
Thanks again!
Thanks very much for your positive feedback! It is greatly appreciated! To answer your questions, first about the crush washers, both differentials and transfer case use crush washers on both the drain plugs and fill plugs, but I didn’t replace any of them. In my opinion, it’s really not necessary every single time, but I wouldn’t push it beyond a second service for fear of potential leaks. However, I did change the crush washer on the oil pan drain plug. Crush washers have apparently become very common for these types of services, and they’re inexpensive, so to be safe, changing them is probably recommended.
About the oil filter housing, this is a topic of debate among many 4Runner owners. Personally, I see no reason to change the plastic housing for a metal one. There are several reasons why I don’t, one of which is that there is no specific one for the 4Runner. You need to get one made for another Toyota vehicle, then you need to exchange the inner tube from your old housing and place it inside your new one. Although this may seem like an easy process, and it is, problems often result due to the way you must bend the tabs in order to exchange the inner tube. Bending those tabs can make them weaker, possibly resulting in issues with the housing itself. The filter requires tension within the housing, and weakening these tabs and spring can possibly lessen the amount of tension resulting in your filter possibly not working as it should. I hope that makes sense, but my feeling is that if a metal one was really necessary, Toyota would have used one from the factory.
Many of the issues people have with the plastic housing are caused by either using the incorrect tool, or by over tightening the housing. Getting the proper tool is vital as it allows you to get a good grip on the housing to avoid stripping the outer tabs. Secondly, the housing really doesn’t need to be tight at all because the housing isn’t what’s really creating the seal, it’s the O rings. Get them snug by hand, then slightly more with a wrench and you should be good. I’m sure there is a torque setting for the housing, but I tend to follow what I’ve always done.
I hope I’ve made sense, but if not, please don’t hesitate to ask and I’ll do what I can to help. I’m not a mechanic, but rather a guy who’s been working on his own vehicles for well over 40 years. If I can help someone do their own work, then I’m glad to do it.
Thanks again for your positive feedback, and thanks for watching!
Great video - used it to change mine. Question: I found 2-3 very small black bits smaller than a grain of rice in my rear diff - big enough to feel with your finger and see clearly. This was my first diff oil change at 83,000 mi. Should I be concerned? Haven't heard any noises or noticed anything weird. Also, I noticed you just filled to the hole and let it drain - is it possible to overfill using this method (I did this and am wondering) -- thanks again for the excellent video.
Thanks so much for your comments! It’s hard to know whether you should be worried since I can’t see the bits, but from your description, I wouldn’t worry too much right now. You’re not experiencing any problems, and these pieces were few and small. Again, I wouldn’t worry about the bits. However, I would recommend that you do the service on the rear again after about 30,000 miles and see how it looks. If there are any larger particles, that may be cause for some concern. Even still, if you’re not having any problems, I wouldn’t perform any repairs.
As for filling to the bottom of the hole, that is the fill hole which is specifically designed not to allow any overfill. The differential is full if you only receive a few drops or a very small stream. It would be extremely difficult to actually overfill your differential enough to make any real difference.
Thanks again for watching!
Thanks for the video, how often do you replace the TCase and Diff fluids?
I change mine every 40,000 miles, but others go a little longer. It’s so easy to do, and is a simple insurance policy for those major driveline components. I’m currently at 53,000 miles and will be doing the transmission at 60,000 miles.
Thanks for watching.
Nice video man. Curious, where did you find out how much to torque the various bolts? Is there some kind of service manual you use?
Thanks for the positive feedback! I found the torque settings online. I can’t remember where, but a simple search yielded torque settings for more than I needed for the project.
Thanks for watching!
Nice video. Does the Toyota 4 runner require any special additives for the front or rear differentials? I seem to remember that my older Silverado required an additive for the limited slip. Also very wise to change your oil every 5K instead of 10K. I shake my head every time I hear someone letting their vehicle go the recommended service interval for crankcase oil. I'll go without food before I ever let my oil and filter go 10K miles.
That’s a very good question. The answer would depend on the fluid you use. Most, if not all, synthetic gear oils already contain the appropriate amount of friction modifier, so there would be no need to add it. However, standard oils typically do not, so you would have to add the correct amount of friction modifier when changing the fluid.
Thanks for watching!
Up your fluid game with bg products or amsoil products. Worth the added protection.and some latex gloves..
Thanks for the comments. I usually use work gloves, but I wasn’t able to work the camera while wearing them. As for the products, I’ll stick with Valvoline.
Thanks for watching.
Like your videos…. What are your thoughts on using 5-30. Full synthetic. Reason I ask have a couple vehicles that use 0-20. And two things one was using a bit between 4-5000 km. Not miles, the other started seeing a bit of fuel carry over to the oil. Both issues went away when I switched to 5-30 in spring to fall. Winter I go back to the 0-20. Same issue every time I switched…… was thinking I would switch my 23 Toyota 4 runner over this next oil change.
Thanks for your support! There is a long standing debate about 0W-20 oil and whether it actually provides adequate protection. It’s widely believed that 0W-20 oil is mainly used to help meet the government mandated CAFE standards for fuel economy. The 4 liter used in the 5th Gen had been in use for many years, and in many other countries with various oil recommendations. In fact, depending on your model year, the owners manual may give you a range of oil weights to use depending on your ambient temperature.
When I made this video, I was using 0W-20 oil, per the manual. However, I have since switched to 5W-20 mainly in an effort to help quiet the common “tick”‘produced by these engines, but also because of the studies which indicate that 0W-20 oil “may” not provide adequate protection long term. I live in eastern North Carolina, so it doesn’t get very cold here. Because of that, I don’t really have much of a concern about switching back and forth during the colder months.
Regarding you burning oil and fuel carry over, that sounds like the rings and/or valves may be worn. My guess is that it’s a high mileage vehicle? In that case, using a slightly thicker oil shouldn’t be a problem since the wear has actually created larger tolerances within your engine, and the thicker oil helps to fill those tolerances.
Basically, I think you’re fine with using slightly thicker oil, even in your 2023 4Runner. I’m a little skeptical of going with a 5W-30 oil, which is why I’m using 5W-20 instead.
Thanks again for your support! I really appreciate it!
Hi, thaks for the video, very helpful. My question is: Does the transfer case drain plug have a magnet? You did not mention anything about it.
Thanks for the comments. About the transfer case drain plug, I don’t believe it does, but you can buy an aftermarket replacement that is magnetized.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this! Could you provide a list of the oils/filters/washers used? Where did you get the filter wrench? :)
I appreciate the comments. I always purchase oils and fluids at Walmart since they have the best prices. They used to carry the K&N filters, but they don’t seem to any longer, so I purchase those on Amazon. I also purchased the filter wrench on Amazon. Be careful to get the correct one. There are some that are better than others. I think the best one is made by Motivx, which is also available on Amazon.
Thanks for watching!
really helpful video!!
so
rear differential 3
transfer case 2
fromt differential 2
engine 6 qrts
is that correct?
Thanks for the comments. The capacities for each are:
Rear differential - 2.6 qts
Front differential - 1.2 qts
Transfer case - 1.1 qts
Engine - 6.6 qts
I hope this helps.
Thanks for watching!
Those vavloline bags seem to make it look way easier. However,
do those Valvoline bags meet GL-5 and other specs?
Some of the other UA-cam videos I’ve seen used the Redline brand 75W-85 GL5 for the diffs and Redline MT LV 70W/75W GL4 for the transfer case.
The OEM Toyota stuff costs an arm and a leg
Thoughts?
I’ll be doing mine on a 4Runner with 75K that’s never had any of that done.
Thanks for the question. Yes, the Valvoline 75W-90 gear oil meets the GL-5 specs, per the Valvoline website. I’ve used Valvoline products for years and have always had great results. They make quality products at an affordable price.
Thanks for watching!
I buy drain plugs and use them for fill plugs in diffs and TC then every time I change engine oil I take em out and clean em off , this keeps the lower magnet from reaching its metal holding saturation point as fast and keeps the oil cleaner . and give ya excuse to check oil levels , I always used same washers been doing it on Toyota axles for 30 years never had a leak .
That’s actually a very good idea! I’ve never thought of it, but I may actually exchange mine for drain plugs as well. Again, great idea!
Thanks for watching!
Pretty good tutorial, the only thing this was missing was the transmission oil replacement(drain/fill) and it would be complete "lube" job 😂.
Yep, that’s missing, but I only had 40,000 miles, so it wasn’t due. However, I just did a drain and fill last week, so I’ll have a video of that in the next couple of weeks.
Thanks for watching!
Solid work! Are you planning to grease the driveshaft?
Thanks so much for your comments. I lube the driveshafts about once a year, or about every 15,000 miles. I didn’t include that in this video since it’s a different type of service. There are already several really good videos on UA-cam which demonstrate how to do it, and also just how easy it is.
Thanks again for your comments, and for watching!
Excellent video, but 6.6 quarts should show about half way up the stick when cold, don't add any more will be over full when hot.
Thanks so much for watching. Yes, oil does expand slightly when warm, like other oil based fluids. However, the expansion amount is nominal and relatively insignificant. The capacity amounts from Toyota state 6.6 quarts for an oil change (including filter), but Toyota doesn’t specify whether or not that amount is determined under warm conditions. The reason for that is because the difference is negligible.
Thanks again for watching.
Hope you know that the first time the torque wrench clicks that is the full torque value. When you click it twice the bolt is over-torqued. Not to be a smart-ass, but I worked in Aircraft Maintenance so hopefully I know what I am talking about.
Actually, I do know that, but I appreciate you sharing your extensive knowledge and experience.
Thanks for watching!
Now we need the Transmission Fluid, which seems to be a little more complicated? and the lubrication of the propeller shaft and retorque. and the Brakes;-)
Thanks for the suggestions. I should actually be doing a transmission drain and fill soon, so I may do a video of that service. Lubing the driveshafts is such an easy job, but I may do a video of that as well. I replaced my brake pads over the summer, so I won’t need to do that for a while, but what are you referring to by “retorque?”
Thanks for watching!
@@bluelineoffroadI think he means where the manual states to “re-torque the prop shaft every __ miles”
Like to see bleeding brake fluid for 4Runner or change brake fluid thanks again sir
I appreciate your suggestion. Unfortunately, I just replaced the brakes recently, so I doubt that I will be doing that service anytime soon. However, I will probably be releasing a video of a transmission service that I promise will be different from all the others on UA-cam. Subscribe to my channel and you’ll be notified when it’s available.
Thanks for watching!
How often do you change this? I've seen on the forums they recommend to change the rear fluid at the first oil change? Would changing these out at 30k to 40k for the first time be fine?
That’s a very good question. My answer would depend on how you use your 4Runner. I haven’t heard about those who change the rear differential fluid at the first oil change, but I can understand why they would suggest that. Personally, I don’t think it’s worth it to do so early, but it certainly won’t hurt anything.
Specifically, as for the mileage, I did it at 40,000 miles, but I’ve heard recommendations at 30,000, but also recommendations at 60,000 miles. My opinion is that performing service on major driveline components is easy and relatively inexpensive to do, so why not do the service in an effort to make those components last? It’s a lot cheaper than performing repairs on those components. That’s my viewpoint, and I’ve been working on my own vehicles since before I could legally drive.
Thanks so much for watching!