Reassembling a Volvo Penta SX-M Outdrive Transom Assembly
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- Опубліковано 12 бер 2019
- In this video I reassemble the Volvo Penta SX-M Outdrive Transom assembly from my boat after stripping down and repainting.
Here's the parts I bought for this video:
transom shield parts
cooling hose 3807890
decal 3857652
Sealing kit 3858631
Pistons
cap 3857522
Port cylinder line 1 3857523
port cylinder line 2 3853857
stbd line 1 3857524
stbd line 2 3853855
Gimbal Ring and pivot housing
gimbal bearing bellows 23075752
Trim pump
oil line 3853825 - Навчання та стиль
Without adulating excellent well explained how Volvo Penta transmission acts and works.
Outstanding video, assembly and camera angle simultaneous.
Boy, outstanding detail on the what and why you did what you did! Really appreciate that!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks Chris,
This might be the best Volvo Penta Outdrive video I have seen. Very helpful, motivating me to make a start on my outdrive.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Chris, this is a perfect video to prepare for the job!
Great Video. I need to do my lower steering busing on mine. Hopefully I can pull that lower pin bracket underneath and then pull the bushing and then press a new one and refit the pin without having to remove the entire unit...
Thanks for the excellent video. Now i just need to find a puller that will work with it on the boat.
Very Detailed, good job.
Thank you for doing this video, very informative, logical, and detailed.
Glad it was helpful!
Very nice video. It looks like you had to deal with a lot of the same issues I’m dealing with as far as corrosion goes. I didn’t have access to a bead blaster, though I now that I’m finished, I wish I had just paid someone to blast it!
Just a couple of suggestions...to keep bolts on an outdrive from seizing, you can coat the threads with OMC/Evinrude gasket sealer or Merc Perfect seal (same product) this will seal the threads so corrosion does not cause seizing. I've done this with an outdrive that has been moored in salt water and it really works.
The other suggestion is to use a flare wrench like you use on brake lines for the trim ram fittings.
Excellent explanation of how to re-do the Volvo SX transom mount!
I use medium (blue) Loctite for both corrosion resistance and vibration protection. Something I adopted from BRP manuals.
hey man great job. very interesting content to see where i messed up.
Благодарю!!! Очень позновательно.
Большое спасибо!!! Из Якутии
My pleasure!
Thank you for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
hi Chris.When you installed the upper suspension fork bushing you flushed it up to the underside of the gimbal housing @ 7:40 in the video.I think you had to press it further upward so the top of the bushing protrudes above the gimbal housing the thickness of the washer that lies underneath the spindle arm.the o ring sits inside the housing just under the bushing so it doesnt get pinched by the suspension fork and the washer under the spindle arm is centered making the spindle arm install easy.
Good catch. In fact, the way the service manual (which I didn't have when I did this job) describes installing the bushing is to actually use the steering arm with the washer as a press from the top. (page 66 of VPA 7743008) That would have definitely made it easier later when I was installing the washer!
I have started to use titanium circlips which don’t corrode they are expensive but don’t need link cables etc.
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for the vid not much in depth help on UA-cam for Volvo outdrives
Great to find some helpful info on the sx drive at last.
Any special tools required for the rebuild.
My steering has a lot of play requiring some winter attention.
Only the tools you saw me use. There's a special hex adapter for the pivot shoulder screws.. other than that nothing too special unless you need the press and torch.
Hi where i can get that replacement kit exchanged? Great video. And my steering arm is 5 bolts?
Thank for this video. What tool did you use to remove the upper stearing swivel shaft ? I can not find any press to remove it.
great video do you know any videos that cover installing the transom to the hull of the boat
I probably should have recorded installing this onto the boat, but it was pretty straightforward. use new gaskets and torque everything in the correct order to the correct specs and you should be all set.
Hi, congratulations for the video. What code does the anti-corrosion cable that you insert before the trim sensors have? I can't find it, in the drawing it only shows the cap code.
Thanks.
Were did you get the volvo penta rebuild kit at.
Freeze your gimbal bearing in the fridge,, apply heat with a heat gun to housing, Gimbal bearing will drop right in
hi very informative video. I have a similar set up and i got a 1/4" pvc line coming in from the outboard and is caped off. it was rubbing on toe the drive shaft and brock off. now i have salt water coming in from it in to the boat . would you know the purpose of this line? i cant find any info on it. thanks
There aren't any 1/4" pvc lines associated with the outdrive.. it's possible it is connected to your Pitot tube and someone routed it incorrectly. Does your speedometer still work?
i stumbled on a great find of a video.. the trim sending unit is in board or outboard on the lower unit?
Trim sender is outboard - mounted between the housing and gimbal ring. I have another video of replacing it.
ua-cam.com/video/q47pa3uvvfo/v-deo.html
Im having trouble taking the steering arm apart from the Suspension fork. Did you have to heat it up to losing it up, or press it out ?
Yes and Yes. Heat + press.
hey Chris, Quick question; when you installed the hinge pins what tool did you use. I am currently taking mine apart and was curious if it is just the standard merc oem tool.
I believe I did use the Mercruiser tool from my old Alpha outdrive.
Thanks for the video. Can you replace the trim manifold block without removing the outdrive? Mine is corroded and leaking....
You could certainly try. However, it's a really tight spot and if it is corroded, I'm afraid you are going to have a tough time with those tubing fittings. It's going to be tough, but if the threads all come out OK, you might be able to pull it off if your hands are small enough. Good luck.
Chris, great video! What size and thread bolt did you use to get the upper gimbal ring fork to come out of the transom bracket where tge steering pivot arm attaches? Thanks
I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. Are you asking how to take the pivot housing out of the gimbal ring? That requires removing the special pivot shoulder screws which requires a special tool - a star shaped tool. Search for "Mercruiser Hinge Pin tool" on Amazon.
This is a great video!! Thank you for posting, it has helped me tremendously....I have the exact setup and am doing all, except the actual ring. Question--- did you have difficulty getting the top cap off during removal? I've taken the 4 bolts out, and I can't seem to get it to budge. Are there bolts on the backside? All the schematics I've seen indicate it should just come off after the 4 bolts are removed. By top cap...I'm talking about what is seen at 31:36.
Yes, 2 bolts from inside the hull. Good luck!
@@SlideruleRacingProducts Thanks! I'm glad I didn't beat on it to hard.
Hi mr. Bruno what driver is used for the shoulder bolts? Also where did you buy your repair/gasket set from?
Thanks
www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGNTOR8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_jkn9Fb3A433Z8
Although it says Mercruiser, it fits Volvo as well.
Is there a way to take out the upper direction bushing without removing it from the boat? I'm struggling on it actually.
My steering shaft was seized from corrosion so badly that there is no way I would have been able to get it off without taking the whole thing out of the boat.. After that, you would need to turn some custom dies for a ball joint press type tool to try to press out that bushing while the assembly was still mounted to the transom.
@28:48 I see you put a second O-Ring there. The second one doesn´t belong there as it is blocking the hole in that piece you mentioned earlier and it is not shown in the Volvo drawing.
Hi from germany. Du you know the size of the o Ring? For What is the hole in the second gap?
Please could you mention the parts numbers on your projects....example what are the part numbers for the hydraulic hose all 4 of them trim supply hoses
3857523,3853857,3857524,3853855,3853825
I found all the p/n for the outdrive parts here: www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-cat-7746050.aspx
Thanks! I have a Volvo DP that's has a leaky coolant pickup in the outdrive. Some people are installing a thru-hull pickup to avoid the hassle. In your opinion, does the water cool the outdrive oil enough that stopping all flow would be harmful? From your video I can't quite see how it all flows before the plastic fitting that feeds the upper hose.
Boy, drilling a thru-hull pickup because you don't want to properly fix the drive seems like a terrible hack. The water runs through the pickups in the lower right alongside the oil, through a seal between the lower and upper, right along the oil, and then out the upper through the pickup opening shown in this video. It's quite likely that there is significant cooling between the water and the oil. I would fix the water pickup properly.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts Thanks. So it's just open space in the lower part, with water swirling around the section filled with oil? That leads me to wonder how much swirl you still get without water leaving at the top of that compartment, and how much heat is generated in that oil. I've seen on some forum threads where dealerships have installed the through-hull, which is why I'm considering it.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts As I'm looking at it, the bulging lower section has the bevel gear and oil bath. That's surrounded by seawater. The upper gears are where the cooling water is in the pickup hose, not doing any actual cooling there. I think I'll risk it. But thanks!
Hi Chris, this is odd; i was following you on the t56 rebuild and find you again on the penta outer drive; seems we are walking on parallel trails..
Did you pull the engine or transmission to get the transom assembly off of the boat?
Yes - the engine was already out when I pulled this out of the boat.
Nice work!
Could you please add the parts list for the whole rebuild?
I added them to the description.
Como cambiar los cilindros de de bajar o subir la pata del Volvo Penta
Awesome video Chris!! How did you successfully un-seize the rear trim pin?? I’ve heated and tried a pickle fork to no avail...
Heat + Aerokroil + deadblow hammer + careful fixturing in my press. It was a struggle, for sure, but patience is really important.
I have had excellent luck using dry ice to shrink the metal bushings before pressing in.
Hi Chris, I have water entering the bilge through the o-ring that sits under the steering arm on the gimbal assembly shaft. I'm having difficulty removing the steering arm from the shaft on the gimbal assembly. My gimbal housing assembly is still attached to the transom as I am trying to do this without removing the engine. Any advice on popping the steering arm off that shaft? Thank you, Steve
Oh I wish I could confidently give you good news. That steering arms was extremely badly stuck on mine from years of exposure in the Chesapeake. I know it ended requiring some combination of heat and usage of my press. I was already planning to replace all of the bushings, so I wasn't super worried about damaging them. Try using some torch work on the arm itself and cyling between heat and aerokroil. You may be able to eventually work it off if you're patient. Good luck!
Chris Bruno u
the reason your y pipe was a little different than the diagram is becuase you actually have a sx-mHP transom, because your motor must be an 8.1. dealing with that now myself
Hey nice video I have one question what kind of tool I need for the screw 30:33?
www.amazon.com/dp/B085ZMC4WS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_.lM4FbNTJ8T8R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck!
Good video. Thank you. How much did the rebuild kit cost?
Just checked my spreadsheet - it was about $650. Largest costs were all the hydraulic lines that I had to cut out and replace because they were seized into the cylinders too much for any flare wrench to get them off. I cut them so I could still use a socket on them before I rounded over the nuts.
Chris Bruno would you be willing to share your spreadsheet?
Did you need to use any kind of sealant for the new bellows?
I have used the sealant in the past for Merc drives, but the manual does not call out sealant for this Volvo drive, so I did not use it. When you get it aligned right, you can tell that you wouldn't need it. Keep in mind that I cleaned all the corrosion off my drive and re-painted everything, so the surface was super clean... If your bellows surface is pitted with flaking paint, you may want to modify the OEM instructions to accommodate..
@@SlideruleRacingProducts Did it leak? I have never not seen anyone use sealant...
What goes in those two holes at 32:05? water is seeping through those two holes and through the steering arm cavity and I am going crazy..Thanks for the very informative video.
There are supposed to be gaskets between the cover and your hull at those two holes. Those gaskets may have shrunk or pulled away from the hull. if water is seeping in between those holes and the steering arm opening, then the gasket between that cover and the drive is bad, so you'll need to remove the cover and replace all of those gaskets.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts Thanks Chris!
Hello Chris, super helpful video, by any chance do you have the list of parts you bought for this reassembly.
Thanks
I did somewhere in an excel file but I'm not sure where it is.. let me see if I can find it and how I could safely share it.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts hello Chris any luck on the list?
Thanks
Here's the parts I bought for this video:
transom shield parts
cooling hose 3807890
decal 3857652
Sealing kit 3858631
Pistons
cap 3857522
Port cylinder line 1 3857523
port cylinder line 2 3853857
stbd line 1 3857524
stbd line 2 3853855
Gimbal Ring and pivot housing
gimbal bearing bellows 23075752
Trim pump
oil line 3853825
Lol so the grease line is just pressed in? I always wondered how it went in. I thought it would screwed in with tapered threads . I have volvo and hate their junk
Now I know the grease line is just pressed in.
But he omit the important part I search for.ie the o rings at the block port for the cylinder line.my mechanic missed I know on mines that's why I'm leaking gas dogged... all the work nd he didn't put it in?.only at the cylinder ends of course this end didn't leak.....do this ends need o rings?.I'd think nd believe so.....for compression seal
@@rodbasden8298 I know there is orings that go to the cylinders, but I'm not sure in the block port. If I had to guess I'd say most likely yes. Google , volvo penta sx or sx-m transom shield parts, and look at parts diagram.
God it looks good painted. What type of paint was it ?
I used a multistep painting process... after cleaning the aluminum as best I could from corrosion in my cheapo beadblast box, I used the AlumaPrep 33, then Alodine, then Zinc Chromate Primer (green), then the Volvo Penta Duraplus Grey enamel, then Duplicolor "Ceramic" Clear coat. 1 year later and it still looks great.
Very nice job
@@SlideruleRacingProducts holy crap dude, you went all out! You must dabble in aviation...
Where did you find the new trim cylinder hoses? I need these exact ones
Ebay was my friend! Having the part numbers helped.
@@SlideruleRacingProducts mine are so warn i cannot find part numbers and theyre pretty expensive so i dodnt want to chance it on the wrong ones
@@tyleranderson4608 you can get all the part numbers here:www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746050-44-8913.aspx
@@SlideruleRacingProducts thanks for all the help! Happy boating
What year was your lower unit.
2004
Would you consider rebuilding my Volvo 280 DP
Sorry Phil, I'm afraid my plate is pretty full right now.
So you don't share no link with any of the parts you used?
I order most of my stuff from Ebay. The links don't persist over time. If you actually watched the video, you'll see that I *DO* share all the part numbers. But you gotta watch! ua-cam.com/video/y83ud7V8kDM/v-deo.html
@@SlideruleRacingProducts I'm looking for the trim cylinder hose
@@eagle5720 I used to use www.marinepartseurope.com/ to identify all of the part numbers I needed in the drive. But that site appears to be having issues right now.
@@eagle5720 Here's another site with illustrations. Better make sure your application is exactly the same as mine. www.volvopentastore.com/Trim-Cylinders/dm/cart_id.534435120--session_id.021194025--store_id.366--view_id.783188
@@SlideruleRacingProducts thanks but those oil lines are so expensive though, I think I need all four of them cause mines have a bunch of weather crack in them
At 9:08 minutes into you skip a definitely section I want to view.the o rings on replacement lines.
Most package come with 4 orings.
I have 4 lines x 2 opening. That's 8 orings to avoid leak right?
Exactly where o rings missing is where leaks at most complicated area.mechainc is fired
Please enlighten me here thanks good video..educational
The manifold has 4 ports on one side (the drive side) and only 2 ports on the engine side. Each port/fitting only uses 1 o-ring. It is very straightforward when you disassemble/assemble. The only problem when you are doing a complete overhaul as I did is making sure that both UP hoses on the outboard side are connected to the single UP hose on the engine side. That's why it is important to mark the manifold when you are disassembling.
I hate to throw cold water on this, I truly mean it, but man! I’m watching that Volvo Penta assembly and thinking, wow, that stinker is so complicated, and when you had it all apart you could have so easily converted to Mercruiser if you were determined to keep an I/O layout on this boat. I truly wish you well and hope this turns out awesome for you, but for me, I’m pretty sure I’d have closed that transom, hung a bracket on the back and gone and got me a new Suzuki four stroke outboard. Great video series either way though, I’m really enjoying it. Thanks!
fitting wrench would have been cheaper ...
Huh? Do you mean *flare* wrench? Flare wrenches are all 6 pt. and don't have enough fine engagement points to deal with the limited travel access for the hydraulic line nuts especially with the bulk of the web around the socket. If you don't believe me, try it yourself on your own drive - you'll see.
Warum redet der Mann so viel, er sollte viel mehr machen, nicht reden.....
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