I borrowed the tools to install the umbrella seals and ended up just installing them like you did. Also the tool to compress the ring when installing the pump was only partially helpful. So no need to wish that you had them
I thought rebuilding mine was coming shortly. I bought my 78 410 backhoe to clear part of my forest to build a pole barn. Day after I was done she would crank but not start. After a few months pulled the tank full of junk. Then had to weld up the pinhole leaks in the tank. So found the transfer pump was bad first. Then the starter went tits up. No fuel to the injectors ended up being the 12v fuel cut off solenoid. Barely audible when keyed on. She runs like a champ again! Oh the roosamaster was super clean inside, was happy to see that. Dig the channel! I will end up buying a jd350 or 450 for clearing around my lake and property. Brian in Oregon
Im glad you remember the buggy. I have 1 or 2 more things to wrap up in the shop then ill be hitting the buggy HARD this winter. Not riding it for a year has me very motivated to make it great.
Well done, some other UA-camrs have had lots of issues dismantling these pumps. With that said though your pump was in much better condition than their pump was.
Thanks. Some of these models have a vent wire that can tear up the case if disassembled in the wrong order. Thankfully this pump didn’t have that design but I did learn that watching other guys try
A quick note ,if you cant wait for the rubber ring for the cage and dont want to spend 100 .00 for a newer style, just align them where they need to be and tack weld them together and you have the newer style .The rings are hard to get on but can be heated in hot water. As for the brass bushing you can use a small brake hone and that should take out the wear spots that are ruining the cup seals ,the new seals should have no problem keeping the fuel from entering the engine oil , vasaline helps when installing them also. My question with mine a 2010 is where is the old ring gone. Im thinking towards the injectors or they liquified . I shall soon find out. It did run fine but the shaft seals and brass bushing was worn allowing fuel into the oil.
I considered welding. This machine is getting sold to a customer so I wanted to use new stuff. But on my own machine I would try tacking it. The ring disintegrates into the case/return side of the pump. It won’t go into the injectors as that circuit is fed direct from the vane pump. If yours has the glass check ball removed, it’s all likely in the fuel tank by now. No big deal the filter will catch it on the next time round. Mine was clogging the check ball every few minutes but ran with it removed.
I cant wait to start working on the buggy again. Should be just a few more weeks until it gets in the shop for a total makeover. I have a lot of changes I want to make to fix the CV geometry, increase suspension travel, and even add more power and comfort. I am really excited to get back to it
mgs4u.com its a radio component company called max-gain systems. The wrench is called 0.291" 6-flute spline tool. Heres a link mgs4u.com/product/0-291-6-flute-spline-tools/
I borrowed the tools to install the umbrella seals and ended up just installing them like you did. Also the tool to compress the ring when installing the pump was only partially helpful. So no need to wish that you had them
I thought rebuilding mine was coming shortly. I bought my 78 410 backhoe to clear part of my forest to build a pole barn. Day after I was done she would crank but not start. After a few months pulled the tank full of junk. Then had to weld up the pinhole leaks in the tank. So found the transfer pump was bad first. Then the starter went tits up. No fuel to the injectors ended up being the 12v fuel cut off solenoid. Barely audible when keyed on. She runs like a champ again! Oh the roosamaster was super clean inside, was happy to see that.
Dig the channel! I will end up buying a jd350 or 450 for clearing around my lake and property. Brian in Oregon
Good luck! These old machines are great but only if you don’t mind repairing often (sounds like your on a great path)
That's on my list of things to do one day...
You’re spitting out fairly accurate information
I try. I’m sure some is wrong but I’m learning every time
Ya you’re doing fine, post some videos of the buggy haven’t seen it in a while.
Im glad you remember the buggy. I have 1 or 2 more things to wrap up in the shop then ill be hitting the buggy HARD this winter. Not riding it for a year has me very motivated to make it great.
Can’t wait to watch this one afterwork! Thanks for the content!
Nice work
Well done, some other UA-camrs have had lots of issues dismantling these pumps. With that said though your pump was in much better condition than their pump was.
Thanks. Some of these models have a vent wire that can tear up the case if disassembled in the wrong order. Thankfully this pump didn’t have that design but I did learn that watching other guys try
I was just watching your video and I was wondering where you got that cam wrench from thank you
I hate that bottom nut on that pump, very hard to start the nut back on and get to even with the specially wrench for it that I borrowed
Just a tip on those umbrella seals, if you don’t have the proper tool you can use a small cable tie to compress the first seal.
Great tip I’ll try that next time. Thanks
A quick note ,if you cant wait for the rubber ring for the cage and dont want to spend 100 .00 for a newer style, just align them where they need to be and tack weld them together and you have the newer style .The rings are hard to get on but can be heated in hot water. As for the brass bushing you can use a small brake hone and that should take out the wear spots that are ruining the cup seals ,the new seals should have no problem keeping the fuel from entering the engine oil , vasaline helps when installing them also. My question with mine a 2010 is where is the old ring gone. Im thinking towards the injectors or they liquified . I shall soon find out. It did run fine but the shaft seals and brass bushing was worn allowing fuel into the oil.
I considered welding. This machine is getting sold to a customer so I wanted to use new stuff. But on my own machine I would try tacking it. The ring disintegrates into the case/return side of the pump. It won’t go into the injectors as that circuit is fed direct from the vane pump. If yours has the glass check ball removed, it’s all likely in the fuel tank by now. No big deal the filter will catch it on the next time round. Mine was clogging the check ball every few minutes but ran with it removed.
I’m ready for more updates on that buggy, is it still having CV shaft issues
I cant wait to start working on the buggy again. Should be just a few more weeks until it gets in the shop for a total makeover. I have a lot of changes I want to make to fix the CV geometry, increase suspension travel, and even add more power and comfort. I am really excited to get back to it
Where did you get the Bristol tool replacement from?
mgs4u.com its a radio component company called max-gain systems. The wrench is called 0.291" 6-flute spline tool. Heres a link mgs4u.com/product/0-291-6-flute-spline-tools/
Is that the same Area Diesel Service Schmoo?
Quite possibly!
42 minutes of spank, sign me up
What year is this dozer
I think it’s a 78 of if I remember right
Area diesel service is good shop !!!!!!
I was just watching your video and I was wondering where you got that cam wrench from thank you