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How To Replace Alternator On All Toyota 3.4l V6 (5VZ-FE)
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- Опубліковано 12 чер 2019
- Sorry, I apparently don't know the difference between a nut and bolt haha. Anyways, this is a tutorial on how to change your alternator on your Toyota 3.4l V6. Here is a list of vehicles this will work with:
1995-2004 Tacoma
2000-2004 Tundra
1995-1998 T-100
1996-2002 4Runner
Thanks for watching!
Songs Used: Joakim Karud- Spring Light
Fredji- Welcome Sunshine (Vlog No Copyright Music)
Great video. I went to the dealer and they were going to charge me $390 to replace the alternator. So I went and bought one for $180 and installed it myself after watching your video. I got it done in about an hour. Thank you for making this. I will say that I had a hard time take the wire connector off the back of the alternator when you said to do it. It is a lot easier to take the alternator out first and then take the wire connector out. But this was still a useful video. Great job.
Thanks for the feedback, glad the video helped some!
Thanks for the video. It's hard work to replace the alternator, that's why we need to hear cool music once we're finished !!!! Your friend from Puerto Rico , Edwin
thank you for the effort in the camera angles. made this a lot simpler and easier to understand
I have to replace my alternator in my mom truck i am borrowing from her. This video is a great help not knowing much about cars or trucks. I am sure after watching this video I will be able to do this.
Thanks for the feedback, I hope it goes well for you!
Awesome step by step video and very helpful!! Thanks for posting it!
One thing that did it make it overall easier for me was to go ahead and remove the battery completely. Had more access to the tension bolt that way.
I was lucky I didn't have to adjust the bushing, but getting it back in was tight. The tensioner can come off completely, seemed easier to manipulate the alternator with it off. The most important detail that needs experience insight was the amount of tension, everything else is pretty straight forward and intuitive. You actually mentioned it should give about 1/2 to 1 inch. After watching 5 videos, then watching them again a few weeks later, it took me about 45 min to replace.
My friend, a big ' THANK YOU ' from Puerto Rico !!!
You're welcome
Mate the “washer” is actually a bushing…you need to pull it away with a makeshift puller to obtain clearance for the alternator install. ie use a socket & nut/bolt to draw it forward a bit, install the new alternator then when you tighten it up it will draw the bushing against alternator tight again.
You left out the only part I was interested in. It's important to show how the wire plug in connector is removed because they are all different. I always try to show a close up of the connector on the new alternator on the bench so that it's clear how to unplug it easily without damaging it.
Thanks for the video it was awesome. I needed the tools size working outside in the cold
Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad it helped
Thanks young men for the nice video.
I had the stupid grommet problem too. Hit it with an angle grinder. Thanks!
I just used this advice today and the video was great!
Also, I ran into that same nightmare issue but found a quick solution from another video. Basically you use a bolt and nut that will fit through the spacer but the head of the bolt will not move through the spacer. Then on the other end of the bolt, place a socket that will fit AROUND the spacer and fit the nut on the end of the bolt. Secure down the nut and it will pull the spacer backwards through the actual frame.
I used method this today and it took 5minutes to move the spacer out of the way and I easily slid up my alternator.
video is here and important time event starts at 2:50
ua-cam.com/video/2v7YiHuvhIE/v-deo.html
Thanks for the feedback! Glad you found a good way to get the alternator in.
thanks for the trouble to comment on this and adding that link, it was very helpful
Wow great call thank you brother!
There is no reason to get under the vehicle. And take out the battery to give much needed access space.
I might need to do this soon too. I've saved this video for a later date. haha thanks again. Keep up these tutorial videos as they are very very useful.
Thanks, glad it is useful to you
Very helpful. Thanks a lot!
Heard a short squeal in the mornings, checked belts- no bottom “nut” and no tensioner bolt! Bought a nut and bolt but wondering just what is missing for tensioner. It wasn’t pictured, so have no clue what I’m looking for what’s missing. It’s dark. I’ll look in the daylight. Luckily I’ve still got good charge. Got a picture of the tensioner equipment?
I don't have a good pic of it and can't easily find it online, so if you go to about 4:00 in the video you can see the tensioner bolt from the side of the engine under the alternator. That is the longer side of it with the star looking head on it. The tensioner is shaped like a T. The other side facing the front of the engine is shorter and has the 12mm nut on it that I mention at about 1:05 in the video. At 1:23 if you pause the video, it shows you the best shot of the tensioner bracket. Right where the wire loom is on the right side of the screen is blocking the view of the longer bolt I mentioned at the beginning of the comment. Try searching around for a tensioner online, it might be the serpentine belt tensioner or alternator tensioner, I'm not 100% sure. Hopefully this helps, let me know if you can find it or not.
RCCR found one online. Thanks.
Thank you 😊
Ok so I’m not the only one having a problem with the washer, it just does not want to budge at all and it’s preventing me from finishing changing my alternator
Does the 14mm bolt have a nut on the back side? I see mine backing out
The one on the top of the alternator? That one is just a bolt by itself holding the whole unit in.
@@rccr23 yes that's the one I was talking about. I guess I just need to screw it back in. I thought a nut fell off the back where I couldn't see.
Can you say a little more about what was a nightmare and how you solved it? I need to replace the alternator (really its the voltage regulator inside) and dont often have an extra pair of hands around. thanks man very helpful
Well that little spacer thing i mentioned physically wouldnt allow the alternator to fit in the bracket, so we had to use a jack and a 2×4 and other stuff to try and push it into place. I wouldn't even mess with trying something like we did lol, so I would suggest taking the new alternator and grinding the spacer thing down with like an angle grinder or something similar until it will fit in the bracket. Hopefully that would work better.
@@rccr23 I found another video here that addressed that issue and I was able to fit in my new one within 5mins. It was crazy quick. Basically use a nut and bolt that will fit through the spacer and you can drive that spacer backwards and easily slide in the new alternator.
Video is here, the important spacer idea is at 2:48
ua-cam.com/video/2v7YiHuvhIE/v-deo.html
You got all kinds of arcing going on at the relay box, look at 6:50
Are you referring to 6:25ish?From what I see it's just some loose electrical tape flopping around in the wind...
RCCR maybe that’s what it is... glad it’s nothing serious
Here's the solution to your nightmare- ua-cam.com/video/2v7YiHuvhIE/v-deo.html
My solution to the stuck alternator ring area is to place it on top and mallot it down, took about 3-4 soft to medium blows.
When replacing my alternator, the harness for the 3-wire pigtail, was so tightly stuck that I was forced to cut those 3 wires. finally, once on the bench , I was able to get it out.