⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 3. Basic Mechanic Tool Set: amzn.to/2tEr6Ce 4. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 5. Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/2BQjj8A 6. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU 7. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️ Things used in this video: 1. Common Sense 2. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 3. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 4. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 5. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2uUZ3lo 🛠Check out the tools I use and highly recommend ► goo.gl/rwYt2y 🔥Scotty Shirts and Merch ► goo.gl/pTAeca Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► goo.gl/CFismN Scotty on Social: Facebook ► facebook.com/scottymechanic/ Instagram ► instagram.com/scotty_the_mechanic/ Twitter ► twitter.com/Scottymechanic?lang=en
Hey Scotty I am a name is Cody and I drive a 2016 jeep compass and I have it because it was cheap at a time and I need something to daily driver that’s good on gas mileage and I recently change the oil and I read the owners manual and to reset the oil life and I’ve done it at least 100,000 times and it still says I need to change my oil can you please help
Ah I remember Ron Toner's Auto Armature. It got bought by Kelly Aerospace. I think Chancey's Alternator is still out there where I live. I worked at Kelly Aerospace winding/rewinding armatures years ago, for all kinds of things. Greyhound Bus's (armature was like an ogre's club - HEAVY), then the helicopter armatures for starters (Apache). It's the same company that did the armature engineering design for Teledyne for Virgin's SpaceshipOne years back.
What's the best way to maintain a Toyota CVT transmission? I was told that if you were to flush out/ vacuum the transmission, this would damage the seals in the transmission and hence damaging it, what's the best recommended way to change cvt transmission oil?
I’m 35 and have been rebuilding alternators since I was 17! Still going strong up here in Massachusetts. Starters and Alternators! Make rebuilding great again!
I have zero clue how to fix the issue and all these places are telling me that I have to bring it to them. Just thought I’d ask someone that works on them.
Can I test directly on the alternator so I can eliminate a wiring issue. I don't want to replace alternator that is only a couple of years old. The original one lasted 22 years.
I remember years ago, I went into Checker(now O'Reiley's) to buy an alternator for my 81 Buick Century. They didn't have one, but the counterman whispered quietly, just fix the one you got, he said chances are the brushes are worn and need replacing. You have the brushes I asked and he nodded in the affirmative. I disassembled and replaced the brushes and re-assembled the alternator right in full view of everyone in the store at a cost of $2.85. The alternator worked fine for the remainder of the time I owned the car. I did learn later the man's supervisor was unhappy about it, but hell he was guilty of not restocking the alternator shelves in the back. The boss admitted it too, so it was all good.
I’m sorry, but O’Reillys sold me an alternator that left me stranded in a not-so-nice part of town. I only drove it 25 miles. Never again! OEM for me. 😡
Man I’m lucky to still have one of those old school alternator guys around. He bench-tests your old part on a hand crank gizmo he built himself about 30+ years ago! Bought at least 5 off him over the years, zero failures
Used to be a guy who rebuilt alternators and starters around the corner...they lasted the rest of the life of the cars. He definitely knew what he was doing....then he just vanished . Never could track him down again. Too bad there aren't any like them guys anymore!
I love where they put the alternator on that Toyota Celica. Great design. Even I can change that alternator. I am so tired of manufacturers putting parts under other parts that you can't get too with normal tools. If a part goes out every 60-80k miles, put it to where a guy can swap it out! Period.
In EU countries inc UK (regardless of Brexit) its all about climate change ratings on cars (vans trucks) and able to charge you emmissions and charge you for entering a road with a high emmissions rating. So computers have got bigger and more (VW and Audi have three ECUs per car), control more and worse reliabilty. Diesel cars are a no no as the tax is to high now. Reliabilty and mileage is now out the window.
I wouldn't even do that, just changing the brushes @ 50 cents each would fix it. Then suddenly, I couldn't find brushes anymore. What a bunch of crap hooey. Can anyone say "SCAM"?
My dad works at Bosch here in Chicago and he told me that Bosch North America parts are nearly ALL made in China, which a few being made (or remanufactured) in Malaysia. He said ONLY certain accessories are still made in Germany or Switzerland, but very few.
@RDLONG30 - I know exactly what you mean. When I was a kid, I remember shopping at Sears and products would *NOT ONLY* have the Made in USA logo displayed proudly, but *also* the American Flag above the words. I remember my dad buying Craftsman because he *KNEW* that tool would last longer than he would and he’d explain that it didn’t make sense to buy a Made in China tool knowing you’d have to buy it again in a few years once it broke. I remember him teaching me that it’s not just the money in having to purchase it a 2nd time but also the time in having to get it again (and perhaps, get again for the 3rd time a few years after the 2nd broke).
Thanks Scotty, my radio started freaking out and died a couple of times in addition to the weak headlights. Got way worse just before it died. Original alternator 240,00 miles. 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I stared at this alternator in amazement for awhile after pulling it and kinda didn't want to give it up for the core charge due to nostalgia.
My alternator quit working when it decided to catch fire while driving down the road. Fortunately, I had bought a fire extinguisher five minutes earlier. It took the entire 5 pound fire extinguisher to put the fire out. Saved the pickup.
@kcotte59 Not psychic, just lucky that day! My “day job” was a firefighter. If I had needed a 6 pound extinguisher that day my truck would have burned up. I was shaking the powder out when the fire finally went out.
Lee i bought 2 home size fire extinguisers for a my boss luxury home. Didn't know what to give to a rich fellow. He had a propane bar-b-q fire near the house 2 weeks later & I saved the day. Was hoping for a bigger raise then normal but nope.
Very informative video Scotty. I'm getting ready to replace the alternator in my 2008 F250 pickup this morning, 67,000 original miles. I noticed my truck was starting a little weird lately. Yesterday, l went to visit my parents and upon leaving, my truck wouldn't start. I jumped it and on the short drive home, my ABS light came on, the battery light followed, and my stereo cut out. I left it running when l got home. The meter showed 8.1 volts coming from the alternator. The battery was at 12.3 volts. I pulled the alternator, which was very hot, and had it tested at Auto Zone. It failed. Bought the remanunufactured Auto Zone alternator for just under $200 with core trade in. This is a pretty easy job. The hardest part being getting to the belt tensioner to take the belt off.
Love your videos, Scotty! And here’s some info to update you, that I discovered by accident today. The reason older Toyota cars’ brake trouble lights go on is the brake anti-lock sensor packages have over/under voltage sensors that throw a trouble code C1241 (that’s the code on a Yaris, at least).
Here in rural Tennessee, our starter/alternator/generator repair shop that was here for DECADES and was a father/son/grandson trade JUST shut down in the last 5 years or so. I think overall there just wasn't enough business to keep it open as most people don't even know things can be rebuilt. It's sad. I remember taking several parts there as a young man and feeling proud to get my same part back and it be better than ever and rebuilt by hand.
He got so much hate so he must be quite good. Guys like him are hard to find, I had one like him. same experience, told u if it was worth fixing or not. half price of most other place and even less and a guy u can trust. He had work for a month in advance but he can slip u in front for a quick fix till he had time. Told BMW and Mercedes owners to get rid of them and get a Lexus. But old age an back pain he had to close the shop.
Thanks Scotty, everything you're saying in this video is true, wish I would have found your video before buying an Orielly alternator because it was bad out the box, I just didnt know how to test it before buying, so I installed the alternator and had the same problem I had before, started troubleshooting other related components couldn't find the problem as later I finally took the vehicle to the shop where I found that that alternator destroyed my battery; O'Reilly replaced the bad alternator but refused to reimburse me for the labor and the battery. I stopped buying anything from O'Reilly as a result of this experience.
You can also have an issue like I did. The alternator starts making a whining sound. It still output a 13.8 to 14.4 idle charge but one of the diodes were failing so it was putting A/C ripple into the battery which destroyed the battery over time. So a simple voltage check won't work when testing an alternator. You really need to check ripple current. That'll kill your electronics as well
You mean vacuum, not air. All modern cars and most light trucks use VACUUM to boost brake pressure, and the others use hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump to boost that pressure.
Like you said about disconnecting the battery terminal on a modern car is spot on. I work at a big chain auto parts store and we install batteries for nothing. One day an employee was going to install the battery on a 2019 Toyota Highlander with tons of electrical systems. He left the car running. When he disconnected the battery the car shut down and wouldn't start again with the new battery. He even tried a jump pack with no luck. Another more experienced employee that used to be a mechanic told him that if you don't connect a battery maintainer to the OBD 2 port the car won't start because something about the computer needs to be reset. The customer was not happy because they had to have the car towed to a garage or the dealership to get the car back up and running. I had to change my battery in my 2018 Toyota Highlander XLE but before I disconnected it I used the OBD 2 maintainer. I had no problem with starting it. Oh the other point to make is don't just buy the cheapest battery you can find, most modern cars use an EFB ( enhanced flooded battery) or AGM ( absorbent glass mat) because of all the electrical systems and those batteries are designed for that.
My battery light is on. My alternator makes whining noise and reads 13.6 with load. I check the battery and it is fine. Will the whining create which lowers the voltage. Autozone says the voltages is fine, but I figured it's should be around 14 volts. New alternator?
Here's another great tip about testing your system for alternator and/or charging/electrical problems. If you notice your car acting funny, it may not be a bad idea to have your car electrical system tested by two different system testers. If both testers diagnose identical problems with your car, then chances are that is what is wrong with your car. I had this issue recently with my alternator. I took my car to two automotive parts store to have the battery and charging system tested. One place said that my charging system and battery was fine. Another stores system tester immediately told me that the voltage regulator on the alternator was bad. Scotty is absolutely right about failing alternators doing weird things in your car. When my alternator was going bad, I would notice that the battery light and a seatbelt warning light would flicker on and off when I was coming to a stop from driving any distance. Also, at nighttime, the headlights would periodically dim and brighten up. Finally, when the alternator got really bad, the CD player in the car stopped working and the car died in a parking lot. Thankfully, I called my dad and he was able to jumpstart the car and I was able to take the car home to get the alternator replaced.
4:00 highly underrated comment. I replace my battery, alternator and starter because my car wouldn't start at time. The terminal and cables were nasty. Replaced the terminals and cleaned the cables. Right after that started right away and 1 year later still runs!
Growing up in the early/mid 70's I worked in a gas station where the owner would press in new bearings and replace the diodes. I learned a lot from him.
Scotty love the videos you made many good points with this one. One big thing you missed is belt slipping (squealing /screaching) and how that can ruin an alternator and is a big problem with low experience individuals diagnosing charging system problems. Keep up the great work
Ke4z Winz , mine makes this sound in the mornings but gradually goes away. Should I have my belt checked out or is this normal caused by moisture? Thanks
I had to have my alternator replaced on my 2006 Ford five hundred. After the first one, my charging light still was on, it worked, but the light stayed on. So, I took car to a different mechanic, he said the alternator was bad. So, I had him replace it. He said it took him three different alternators before one finally tested good for him to install it. My light wasbout, and it charged good. It goes to show, there is a difference in alternators.
Scotty, in colder states where salt is used on the roads for half the year, like Ohio, we have problems with chassis grounds corroding away. This was far more common in the '80s and '90s, but isn't unheard of today with trucks and SUV's. This will cause problems that look like the alternator dying, so if changing the alternator doesn't work, check the ground before swapping in another.
It's kinda freaky how in the last few days my battery light intermittently turns on and I'm worried that my alternator is going bad but I couldn't tell for sure... and Scotty comes along with this vid. Thanks Scotty!
I've recently replaced just the Voltage Regulator in 3 Bosch alternators in German cars. Simple job: 2 or 3 small bolts & OEM Regulators cost $20 - 30. The Regulator normally has worn brushes & can be replaced in some cars without removing the Alternator; example: Mercedes 190e. Saves an hour + of pulling the serpentine belt & fan clutch & adjusting belt tension.
This video is amazing . I've had many vehicles in my lifetime , 3 of them had alternator issues , wish I would've seen this video sooner. But better now than never! Answers alot of questions I've been sitting on . Thank you once again Scotty, you rock ! !
i long for the "good old days" my 71 chev van had a puny 37 amp alternator w/separate regulator that couldn't keep the battery charged when using lights heater etc at night. so i found an oldsmobile 62 amp alternator in the junk yard thats still with me after all these years. i also replaced my mechanical regulator w/a transistorized unit. GM was good that parts were interchangeable back then
Nice to see that you are up to date with the "new" alternators with LIN bus.Those alternators time to time, as you said, generates no voltage at all, so some people think that the alternator is broken, and is not, is running perfectly.Some car electricians take advantage of this to do their business, if you understand what I am talking about.
Hey Scotty, you left one "scenario" out. The alternator or battery light comes on when you shut off the car, but goes out when it is running. It's rare, but does happen. It is due to a shorted diode on the positive side of the "diode trio." The battery + voltage goes through the shorted diode and works its way back through the alternator electronics to the light bulb, and then onto the ignition circuit and finds its way to ground. That was in the old school alternators which had 3 sets of diodes: The output positive trio, the negative output trio, and an additional positive trio that was fed to the voltage regulator circuit to excite the field coil. Total of 9 diodes. Is there anyone else out there that is old enough to remember those systems? On a Chevy I used to own when I was in my teens, the regulator in the alternator shorted and fed full battery voltage to the field coil which boiled the battery and blew out a bunch of lamps, yet no battery light every lit up. LOL
Just going by what I've read online ,a remanufactured alternator is better than a rebuilt or refurbished alternator . Some people's budgets don't allow for a new OEM alternator . I had my 2010 Accord at a dealership service dept and it took them 2 days to figure out the alternator was bad .Wanted to charge me $763 for parts and labor . Got a reputable mom and pop garage to tow it to their place .Bought myself a $200 alternator at Autozone a $79 EverStart battery at Walmart and the owner of the garage is charging $104 to install
I used to rebuild Alternators back in the late 70s. Rebuilt can be okay if they are done right but many places reuse too much of the old parts. We put new brushes and bearings in all of them. The company I worked for used to cut corners on diode assemblies. Cheap diodes won't last either. We used to get batches where they wouldn't even make it off our test stand.
We had one when i was a kid. Had a vinyl sunroof that leaked buckets when it rained. I think it topped out around 40 mph going up altamont pass east of SF. Semis would brush us cuz they were pissed we were in their lanes. They traded it in on a new toyota corona in 69 or 70. Geek parents whattayagonnado.
I want to ask a question. I had my Nissan rogue select, after running fine the last 5 years, my alternator decided to go bad on me, the brake and battery light came on at the same time and when researched people said either bad voltage regulator or most likely bad alternator. So I went ahead, yes I did order a cheaper one online it was brand new and company supposedly had good reviews but wasn’t the OEM by Valeo. I got the new alternator in and replaced it. It started right up and when I put the voltage meter it showed 14.2 I drove it for about 15 or 20 minutes and then the brake light and battery light came on again and it started acting up and then when I shut it off and tried to restart it it wouldn’t start and so I jumpstarted it and it started up right away and when I put the voltage meter back on it only read 7.42. Could it be possible it’s not the regulator and i just got a faulty alternator since it did show correct voltage reading at first and then died and showed half the voltage shortly after?
Thanks Dr. Scotty! My granddaughter and I benefited from your lecture on the alternator/generator situation. Very helpful. However, last week you claimed to have cleaned your garage! But your credibility was stretched by the obvious lack of cleanliness in the background of the alternator/generator lecture. You have some explaining to do, because we are both English majors, and we remember stuff.
Funny enough a mate of mine thought his alternator was stuffed.. I said check your terminals and battery before you rule your alternator is stuffed.. his battery terminals were badly corroded. Once cleaned off and tighten it was allgood lol
I remember back in the day when my 80s general Motors alternator went bad, I could pick up a rebuild kit for $14. It included new brushes, diode trio, and usually a bearing. You could replace it in no time at all. Now you have to get an expensive refurbished alternator it seems.
Mario Monti Yeah those days are long gone. Even the smaller ones GM used in the late 80s were a big pain. That little bearing on the rear that failed. Then take it apart and the rectifier is soldered to the stator. Nothing simple anymore. Non serviceable is the way now.
You said it Scotty. Alternator and starter or "rewind" shops are almost long gone. Luckily, we have a shop near us that does just that, they can take an old unit and rebuild them with new parts inside, sandblast the case, test and then sell them. Or, the customer can ask to have their existing alternator to be rebuilt and specify only high grade USA made parts be used. They can also increase the output at the same time they rebuild them if the customer/car requires it.
I worked for the Big'O for 5 years and quit almost a year ago for various reasons. The alternators and starters come in three levels of quality: discount re-manufactured, standard re-manufactured and new. From the time I started to the time I left, the re-man parts were all done in Mexico and the new ones were from China.
Going from a DC generator to an alternator was one of the subtle changes made from the '64 and a half to the '65 model year Mustangs. I have an alternator on my '65 and get some drop off while stopped if I have everything running at once but it does quickly go back up once I start to move again.
My mechanic was kind enough to replace my alternator belt (for a standard fee of course) when it would squeal in the winter with the radio, heater, and phone charger all running at once. It warmed up a lot faster in the winter after that. Thanks, Mr. Kilmer for your videos!
My original alternator failed on my Toyota around 250K miles. The car made it home on the battery. I charged the battery and then replaced the alt with an Autozone reman unit. It had some bearing noises but charged well. A year or less later the batt light came on and the wipers were running very slow. I measured the running voltage at under 12V. I removed the alt and brought it back to Autozone. The testing machine was down so they gave me another one. This one had low charge at idle and made some noises with different loads. It failed with in a year. Again, the machine was down. I wanted to see it was bad but knew it was. So far the 3rd replacement is working, about 3 years now. It is real easy to replace on this car or it would be a disaster. I have a voltmeter in my Honda's power port and noticed the alt is not charging at the same rate all the time. I found the computer controls the charge as Scotty mentioned. It is 14.2V but drops to 12.5V under acceleration and idle, if there is a low load on it. This did not hurt battery life as I changed the original at 7 years knowing some cells were getting weak but it still started.
Brother Scotty and his superb instructional-videos have saved my butt on MANY occasions in the past. His GREAT pragmatic-approach to solving engine issues is the ONLY way to properly troubleshoot problems for sure!
LOL I remember when I was young and had more time than money taking off an alternator (when it was a 2 minute job) to just replace the $5 defective part (brushes, diode trio, bearing) vs swapping in a $70 rebuilt.
As I mentioned, the alternator is good and the battery is new, but the battery light is on on the dashboard. Could you please let me know what is wrong? Once again, both the alternator and the battery are good, but the battery light is on. It is a 2006 Ford Escape. Thanks.
Unfortunately cars now are built with mileage first. Then maybe safety. They are reliable enough to work well for the actual customer, the person who drives it off the new car lot. After their lease is up and they dump it, the next owner is inconsquential. After about 5-7 years then they start breaking and all the electrical problems become a nightmare. And the 8 feet of timing chains. And the 59 speed transmissions. And on and on...
the only true way for much better gas mileage are lighter smaller cars and / or go carts . all these extra so called "ecoboost, efficiency gd I , turbo ecoboost ", etc.....all b.s.. bologna.....unless it's a hybrid or diesel , modern "efficient" cars get very little if any better gas mileage than cars from 20 years ago......
@@brentboswell1294 ...got a Scion xA (Toyota) with 251,000 miles. Drives like new...plus alternator never changed ( knock wood !). Running the Autool gauge pak and I see voltage during driving conditions and also when car has ignition "on" and not running.....still fine both ways.
Thank you for upload. I was unlucky enough to get a cam shaft sensor error code on my Ford. After changing the sensor, it came up again. Alternator has fixed the problem. I have a 20 yr old Ford, as time goes by and I strip it away to fix and maintain , China made comes up a lot. Most factories have moved there over cheap labor and silly contamination laws.
I love that you use the Opal as an example! Alternator went out on ours. My dad parked it in the driveway and some guy tried to steal the Opal. To his surprise it wouldn't start even though he let it roll down the driveway. What he didn't know was Dad had disconnected the battery too😉 The Opal was an ugly car but easy to fix 😂
@@WoodgemanX I wasn't paying attention so my autocorrect changed the E to an A.... but Thank you for bringing it to my attention. We had 1 of the 3 door Opel wagons😊
The idea of using a special tester for the Alternator is very good. However a cheaper method is to switch on the main beam lights, and rev the engine a little. If the lights get brighter the alternator is working. I used to work on radio equipment, and one of the best test pieces was a light bulb wired to the output. The bulb has a non-linear response so that a small change of voltage is very noticeable.. going from 12 to 13 volts almost doubles the apparent brightness.
There’s a guy in Bacliff, TX and he’s an OLD SCHOOL alternator & starter rebuilder. If you live between Houston & Galveston take your worn out stuff to him. (A-Alternator & Starter)
I have a 2000 tundra. The battery is 2.5 years old. 180k miles. The battery dies completely once, I jumped it then drove it in highway for an hour. It was fine for a few days. Then hesitated to start. The pedal felt dead for a few minutes then it died in the parking lot while driving. Alternator? Should I replace battery too if alternator is bad ?
Another thing I noticed too (also could be a bad battery) is if you have your headlights on, and you notice they dim briefly (even slightly) when you press on the brake pedal, that could indicate an alternator problem, battery problem, or some other issue (or all three). My suggestion: if you see the battery light come on, check it out as soon as possible and address it. I had a battery problem (which turned into an alternator problem later) that ultimately caused one of the trucks I was driving, to die on a country road in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere. So when you see the warning light come on, figure out what's causing it and address it, because you don't want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere or worse yet, have your car die on you while driving in the middle of the road on the freeway. Most alternators I've seen will go at least 100k but i would have it checked periodically for its health to see that it's still charging normally and not wearing out (same for the battery).
Scott I've been here since you had 10 subscribers. I've promoted you since your 5th video. Proud to see what your channel has become. God bless you brother.
I used to just check it with a voltmeter. 12.9 volts with the engine off after it had been sitting for a while generally meant the battery was fine. 14 volts with the engine running usually meant the alternator was ok.
That's how mine is. On a six year old rebuilt battery and an alternator I'm sure has never been replaced since it was made in 2000. Btw from a good shop rebuilt batteries can be much better AND cheaper than factory new.
@@TruAnRksT only one of my cars ever needed the alternator replaced, and that was because it kept getting oil from a leaky engine in it. Under normal circumstances I don't think alternators should ever wear out.
@@AlexandarHullRichter I have seen a situation where one bad diode does spoil the whole bunch. Where a car charged when it was running but slowly drained the batt when sitting. Since it charged when running this made it hard to find the problem. Completely stock.
That's too funny, I almost bought a Lexus instead but I wanted a manual transmission. The only Lexus that comes with a manual option is the IS250 but they are hard to find and I kind of love this BMW so that's what I got.
The last car I had with a generator was the 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer that I inherited. It did not have AC or power windows, so there was never a problem. It had four gauges (remember those?), so you always new what was going on with oil pressure and the electrical system.
@@garywilkerson6228 Total of 3 installed. Third one was rebuilt name brand and actually cost more than the brand new off'brands that were initially installed for the tune up. Shop owner said that they were made in Malaysia,and that when he had replaced one in his own car before a road trip,that he bought a second one to keep in his trunk in the box before he left home. I had the same thing happen 10 years earlier on a different car. The third time that I went back to Advance,they gave me the name brand at no additional cost over the store brand,for self installation.
@@thomassullins8690 I am now exactly having this problem as you. I bought an alternator.. and it was a bad one... My lights would be blinking all the time. One day it died on the road. I took it back because I had a lifetime warranty.. and got another one. Now after 3 weeks with the other new one.. it's dead also.!!! Am so mad because it's wasting my money paying the mechanic all the times.. plus more money for using a tow truck to tow the car. Autozone you can do better. Check with your manufacturer. This is so disappointing .
My 91 Volvo 740 Turbo sedan altinator died .Replaced with a rebuilt Bosch first one failed in 2 weeks was replaced for free. Next time so far lasted 9 + years! I paid $375
Made the mistake of buying the 1 year warranty alternator - lasted 14 months. Bought the lifetime warranty one to replace it - never had to touch it again.
Looking for advice. 2014 VW GLI. 170k miles (mostly highway). Should I pay the $400 for a new Bosch alternator (yes new, not refurb) or drive to Lomita here in LA and pay a guy $150 to rebuild.
@@pussinboots1145 He retired and went out of business. I don't know of any other alternator or generator shops still in existence. They're all gone, it seems. Like those upholstery shops that made so many shag carpet vans in the '70s.
I'm lucky in that there is still a shop that rebuilds things in the San Fernando Valley near Los Angeles. I never had issues with their rebuilds as they only used genuine parts. It's a shame so many shops close up because nobody wants to pick up the trade along with the fact that parts now are becoming more and more disposable. It's a sad state of affairs really.
Hi! I had a question. I would like to know what I should do. First, my 2001 Subaru Forester (S), would not pass smog. (I'm not aware of this history of my car since I purchased this car used during this pandemic time. I did take my car to a mechanic already. They were supposed to pin my splash plate up--but I can hear the a rubbing sound, so I know they must've done something wrong. I also told them that if I needed a tune up, they could do it. But they just replaced the headlights that were melted inside. (I cannot thoroughly explain that because I forgot exactly what they said.) So I'm driving the car one hundred miles afterward (@ over $5.00 a gallon), so the car can pass smog. I get to my house after the long drive, and suddenly, the check engine light comes on again. So, I make sure that I have an oil change the next day! They recommended there that I get a new battery because my battery was charging a little lower. Well, since I just spent a lot of money there, I decided to wait until I got paid until I purchased a new battery. I was driving my car yesterday to put another 100 miles on the car just in case I needed to before I had my car smogged! I never made it because while I was driving on the freeway, I began to lose power and so I made it over to the side of the road. I also had my mom with me on that trip. I'm 55 & my mom is 74--and so we are just sitting there. I know it's best to wait awhile and let my car cool down. It took hours and hours before we finally made it home as I could only drive the car in second gear. So I drove at apporx. 30 mph . . . until we got to AutoZone (miraculously)! They ran some tests and told me that my alternator is bad. I want to know if you think I should get a new battery first and then tow my Subaru to an Alternator shop? Or just tow the car & then let them either replace the alternator or rebuild it? And then get a battery afterward? I don't have a lot of money. I have a temporary sticker on the back of my car which is up on April 4th with the DMV. That bought me some time before I could get my car smogged! I so wish someone had told me that the cause of headlights dimming was because the alternator was going out. But, just so glad we made it home alive last night. I don't have very much money left now & what I did have, I had been saving. I appreciate your advice very much. I like your video's and have watched them before. Thank you.
My friend has a 2006 Toyota Sequoia. Their family was on the highway for a couple hours when the vehicle coasted dead to the side of the highway. Mechanic friend came out and said it was the alternator. Highly unusual. I do know the vehicle got stuck in mud at a horse stable two weeks prior, but issue with alternator issue not noticeable until the highway. The wife was gunning it extremely hard, spinning tires, until it got free. Could that have caused it?
Great video. Unfortunately, parts store reman alternators are very hit and miss (Advance-Carquest , Autozone-Duralast, Oreillys-Ultima). My limited experience has shown that the Carquest units are the best of theat bunch but they are not great. Even if you are lucky enough to get a good one the first time, it probably wont last more than a couple of years. Even though they have a lifetime replacement warranty with local stores , how much is your time worth to replace it, plus other costs involved if there is a breakdown ? I can't see how their "Professional" new alternators made in China, Malaysia etc could be much better. Are they worth buying ?
Howdy Scott! U're the best. I still need help to conclude on my alternator. My car is having a hard time starting but picks up each time i jump starts it. After running for miles and stopping, the car still won't start. I recently notice too recently the power window glass moves slowly even on idle. So i took a multimeter to test and realized the voltage from the alternator to the battery fluctuates from 12.7 to 12.88 to 13v to 9v then up and again. I just need ur expert opinion to confirm my conclusion.
Outstanding Scotty,I have to remind my friends to resist the temptation to disconnect one of the battery post while their cars/trucks are still running.
In some vehicles you have to maintain power to the computer while you are replacing the battery otherwise you're in trouble.That's what I was told anyway.
I am glad you mentioned other lights coming on cause of the alternator. I have seen diode trios go and lightly glow the charge light. but have seen the charge light not come on and seat belt lights, oil lights and even IP brake lights on. Not to mention false codes in modules. Another one was my mom's 79 Chevette with the 1.8 4cyl eng. Had an external ground wire cause they used a rubber pivot mount for vibration and the adjusting bolt got enough corrosion to. It had corroded from our salted roads. Get this the battery didn't go dead. But the floating ground raised hell with a lot of stuff on the car. And of course I wasn't a mechanic yet then. But my dad and I figured it out and got a good chuckle out of it. Along with a learning experience that really helped when I did become a professional mechanic later in life. Very goof video by the way.
There are still alternator/starter shops still around. The often specialize in truck/bus/heavy equipment. The one I use doesn't have exchange alternators or starters. They will rebuild yours and can give a one or two day turn around if they can locate the parts ( a problem sometimes with obsure equipment that you can't find a replacement for anyway). Their rebuilds are real rebuilds... they don't want to see it again anytime soon, 'cause it's bad for their business reputation.
Wish I had gone this route!!! Wuda saved me 1000 easily. That includes tow bills and paying shops to install new pos(made the mistake of buying new made in China alternator). Got one free replacement but they (napa) wudn give me another. Found another locally owned parts store that only sells quality US made new & reman and so far haven't had any more issues.
Scotty, several years ago I worked in the aftermarket auto parts industry. From private owned to corporate as well as several franchises including the company that started out as an ACE Hardware, expanded to auto parts, planted stores all over Michigan Ohio and Illinois, went corporate and are now known as O'Reilly's. Anyhowz, unless everything has changed, Rebuilt parts typically carry the lowest warranty i.e. 30-90 day, 6 months up to 2 years however, Remanufactured parts are generally Lifetime Warranty but that's not the only difference. Rebuilt parts such as alternators are mass disassembled, parts sperated into bins, cleaned/degreased, and rusty or parts that still look dirty are painted. Maybe you've seen some pitted v-belt pulleys painted gold in the past. Some internals may be tested, but probably not until after it's reassembled then goes to a kinda sorta bench test. Go/NoGo/GoToLunch/GoHome etc etc... That's how you get home with a part that's DOA. For Most REPUTABLE Companies and Stores the Remanufacturing Process is something completely different. First off, the cores, if they happen to be one of theirs are usually tested for cause of failure especially if the company has found an OEM issue and corrected it. I'm sure you can recall GM's CS Series Alternator that mostly failed due to the rear bearings overheating, cooking the bearing grease then things really got hot til it gave up the ghost and Nuked itself. Brand New, OEM or rebuilt replacements made no difference as all of them would still have the same bearing thus same problem. At least if you replaced it with rebuilt the store/supplier would probably help you out not if but when it failed again. And no junkyard pickin' of course. Then came the Remanufactured Alternator with a Lifetime Warranty. Sandblasted cases with larger bearing housings bored to accommodate the larger higher quality bearings the GM denied being an issue, new pulleys, diode trios, electrical connections for the main battery post and voltage regulators, as well as bench tested by someone who actually understands how it should work, how to correctly use the test equipment and what to look for other than "Well, it kinda sorta spins?!?" The Remanufactured Unit is BETTER than the OEM factory part. How about Ford's I. A. R. Alternator? Y'know, the one that rather than having the old tried and true 3-4-ish wires attached to the back and an External Regulator on the firewall or fender or radiator support went internal. Some were originally manufactured to Ford's specs but others came from Nippon/Japan, as I recall but don't quote me on that. I do know it was either Nippon or Bosch. For some reason the imports didn't catch on fire when replaced like the Ford alternators did. Another bright idea. The Remanufacturer sent the replacements out with the main power pigtails locked in place. Yes you had to cut and splice you're harness. Take it up with Ford, period. LoL.
17 min. I'm old school. I still love seeing the other side of the world like this so soon. Like the old Internet the way it use to be. Big G'day and Howdy from Perth, Western Australia.
Hey Scotty, do me a favor, try to see if you can do a video standing completely still, no arm movement, no swaying side to side. Stand perfectly still and see if you can do one of your very informative video's.
I have this question 2006 Nissan Altima, I have a 2,400 wat amplifier with 5,000 wat subwoofers max. I'm planning to install a 2nd battery in the trunk. Will one alternator charge both battery fine?
Hey Scotty! Thanks for all these videos. Watching this one made me remember something that maybe you or the community can answer. Girlfriend's work car (2000 Honda Civic) battery light came on. I checked with my meter and alternator wasn't charging. Went to Autozone for a replacement and for some reason I asked them to check the old one (oem Honda). Surprisingly it passed. Went back to clean and check the wiring. Still nothing from the alternator (tested the alternator directly). Went back to have them check it and it still passed but I brought a new one. Installed and worked perfectly. Put back old one to check one more time and still nothing so I left the new one. Question is what could have caused that?
My Honda van is having similar issues. I replaced the alternator and battery. The problem persists. Based upon what I've read, ELD or Voltage Regulator may be at fault.
Well done. I have a 1990 Volvo 240. Just put a new Oreilly's alternator in and got stranded- the battery light and brake lights on-lol. As I was walking out the door, someone behind the counter said " see you tomorrow"...How did he know that? I 'm learning what to do next, since I traded in the core and don't have the old one (bench tested at 8). The 2023 new battery was drained to nothing last week when the boyfriend decided it was the alternator. This is after a PVC replacement, mass air flow , throttle position, fuel regulator, o2 sensor. It's never ending. I also hear a clunk when I start her up. It all started a few months ago with some sort of fuel issue with acceleration. It was lurching. Makes sense it's the alternator because it's an EFI. Either way, you make informative videos and I appreciate it.
I went through 4 alternators in less than a year from autozone. Yes they offer a warranty, but it is a huge inconvenience when your car breaks down while on the road.
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Hey Scotty I am a name is Cody and I drive a 2016 jeep compass and I have it because it was cheap at a time and I need something to daily driver that’s good on gas mileage and I recently change the oil and I read the owners manual and to reset the oil life and I’ve done it at least 100,000 times and it still says I need to change my oil can you please help
Ah I remember Ron Toner's Auto Armature. It got bought by Kelly Aerospace. I think Chancey's Alternator is still out there where I live. I worked at Kelly Aerospace winding/rewinding armatures years ago, for all kinds of things. Greyhound Bus's (armature was like an ogre's club - HEAVY), then the helicopter armatures for starters (Apache). It's the same company that did the armature engineering design for Teledyne for Virgin's SpaceshipOne years back.
Mr. Richter (2) common sense
What's the best way to maintain a Toyota CVT transmission? I was told that if you were to flush out/ vacuum the transmission, this would damage the seals in the transmission and hence damaging it, what's the best recommended way to change cvt transmission oil?
Dr. Gunter Zooloff was almost a genius , Scotty really is. Thanks.
I’m 35 and have been rebuilding alternators since I was 17! Still going strong up here in Massachusetts. Starters and Alternators! Make rebuilding great again!
From mass to go new England
@@bbtwownsunite4eve928 Absolutely! 👊🏻
I just installed an alternator on my girlfriends 2013 Jetta 2.5 se and it’s glowing like a light
I have zero clue how to fix the issue and all these places are telling me that I have to bring it to them. Just thought I’d ask someone that works on them.
Can I test directly on the alternator so I can eliminate a wiring issue. I don't want to replace alternator that is only a couple of years old. The original one lasted 22 years.
I remember years ago, I went into Checker(now O'Reiley's) to buy an alternator for my 81 Buick Century. They didn't have one, but the counterman whispered quietly, just fix the one you got, he said chances are the brushes are worn and need replacing. You have the brushes I asked and he nodded in the affirmative. I disassembled and replaced the brushes and re-assembled the alternator right in full view of everyone in the store at a cost of $2.85. The alternator worked fine for the remainder of the time I owned the car. I did learn later the man's supervisor was unhappy about it, but hell he was guilty of not restocking the alternator shelves in the back. The boss admitted it too, so it was all good.
Today you'd be beaten in full view of everyone, and then arrested for loitering haha..
OReilys is king of customer service. Why I go to them 95 percent of the time.
O'Reiley's is great. Won't step foot in an AutoZone
I’d make it a point to go to that guy directly no matter what parts shop he works at. That’s good customer service.
I’m sorry, but O’Reillys sold me an alternator that left me stranded in a not-so-nice part of town. I only drove it 25 miles. Never again! OEM for me. 😡
Man I’m lucky to still have one of those old school alternator guys around. He bench-tests your old part on a hand crank gizmo he built himself about 30+ years ago! Bought at least 5 off him over the years, zero failures
Used to be a guy who rebuilt alternators and starters around the corner...they lasted the rest of the life of the cars. He definitely knew what he was doing....then he just vanished . Never could track him down again. Too bad there aren't any like them guys anymore!
@@nevtay it’s definitely hard to find people who rebuild things these days.
The gov regulations make it harder and harder to get the parts and pieces to rebuild important car parts!
I love where they put the alternator on that Toyota Celica. Great design. Even I can change that alternator. I am so tired of manufacturers putting parts under other parts that you can't get too with normal tools. If a part goes out every 60-80k miles, put it to where a guy can swap it out! Period.
5 purchases would indicate they aren’t any good 😂😂 buy new.
Back in the day, I used to buy an alternator rebuild kit. I rebuilt my own alternators, never had one fail.
Somtimes changing a diode would fix it...
It must have failed to rebuild it.
In EU countries inc UK (regardless of Brexit) its all about climate change ratings on cars (vans trucks) and able to charge you emmissions and charge you for entering a road with a high emmissions rating. So computers have got bigger and more (VW and Audi have three ECUs per car), control more and worse reliabilty. Diesel cars are a no no as the tax is to high now. Reliabilty and mileage is now out the window.
I wouldn't even do that, just changing the brushes @ 50 cents each would fix it.
Then suddenly, I couldn't find brushes anymore. What a bunch of crap hooey. Can anyone say "SCAM"?
Never have them fail yet you pluralize alternators? Cool story bro.
My dad works at Bosch here in Chicago and he told me that Bosch North America parts are nearly ALL made in China, which a few being made (or remanufactured) in Malaysia. He said ONLY certain accessories are still made in Germany or Switzerland, but very few.
Made in ChinAmerica
And that’s why Bosch parts fail
More recently now.
@RDLONG30 - I know exactly what you mean. When I was a kid, I remember shopping at Sears and products would *NOT ONLY* have the Made in USA logo displayed proudly, but *also* the American Flag above the words. I remember my dad buying Craftsman because he *KNEW* that tool would last longer than he would and he’d explain that it didn’t make sense to buy a Made in China tool knowing you’d have to buy it again in a few years once it broke. I remember him teaching me that it’s not just the money in having to purchase it a 2nd time but also the time in having to get it again (and perhaps, get again for the 3rd time a few years after the 2nd broke).
@RDLONG30 - Well said.
@Lassi Kinnunen well said
Thanks Scotty, my radio started freaking out and died a couple of times in addition to the weak headlights. Got way worse just before it died. Original alternator 240,00 miles. 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I stared at this alternator in amazement for awhile after pulling it and kinda didn't want to give it up for the core charge due to nostalgia.
I alternated between watching Scotty and reading all your comments during the video. (sorry, couldn't resist saying that...lol)
MrJoebiz24 me too lol
@@bambamsmash5406
Yep,
I switchback and forth.
😜
😂😂😂
My alternator quit working when it decided to catch fire while driving down the road. Fortunately, I had bought a fire extinguisher five minutes earlier. It took the entire 5 pound fire extinguisher to put the fire out. Saved the pickup.
@kcotte59 Not psychic, just lucky that day! My “day job” was a firefighter. If I had needed a 6 pound extinguisher that day my truck would have burned up. I was shaking the powder out when the fire finally went out.
Lee i bought 2 home size fire extinguisers for a my boss luxury home. Didn't know what to give to a rich fellow. He had a propane bar-b-q fire near the house 2 weeks later & I saved the day. Was hoping for a bigger raise then normal but nope.
@@dwaynejones1555that’s a sorry @$$ boss! What a jerk.
I entered all of Scottys video titles into a super computer and asked it what car I should get....it said “buy a horse”
Must be bad programming. It should have said "Celica"
It's a horse named "Celica".😁
A horse and a shovel, feed, meds, shelter barn, and etc. , etc.
A horse born in 1994.
Rev up your Mister Ed's
Very informative video Scotty. I'm getting ready to replace the alternator in my 2008 F250 pickup this morning, 67,000 original miles. I noticed my truck was starting a little weird lately. Yesterday, l went to visit my parents and upon leaving, my truck wouldn't start. I jumped it and on the short drive home, my ABS light came on, the battery light followed, and my stereo cut out. I left it running when l got home. The meter showed 8.1 volts coming from the alternator. The battery was at 12.3 volts. I pulled the alternator, which was very hot, and had it tested at Auto Zone. It failed. Bought the remanunufactured Auto Zone alternator for just under $200 with core trade in. This is a pretty easy job. The hardest part being getting to the belt tensioner to take the belt off.
Love your videos, Scotty! And here’s some info to update you, that I discovered by accident today. The reason older Toyota cars’ brake trouble lights go on is the brake anti-lock sensor packages have over/under voltage sensors that throw a trouble code C1241 (that’s the code on a Yaris, at least).
Here in rural Tennessee, our starter/alternator/generator repair shop that was here for DECADES and was a father/son/grandson trade JUST shut down in the last 5 years or so. I think overall there just wasn't enough business to keep it open as most people don't even know things can be rebuilt. It's sad. I remember taking several parts there as a young man and feeling proud to get my same part back and it be better than ever and rebuilt by hand.
You're a global treasure. Thanks for the video Mr Kilmer
He got so much hate so he must be quite good. Guys like him are hard to find, I had one like him. same experience, told u if it was worth fixing or not. half price of most other place and even less and a guy u can trust. He had work for a month in advance but he can slip u in front for a quick fix till he had time. Told BMW and Mercedes owners to get rid of them and get a Lexus. But old age an back pain he had to close the shop.
@@TeeKoon good at nothing, seek rehab
Thanks Scotty, everything you're saying in this video is true, wish I would have found your video before buying an Orielly alternator because it was bad out the box, I just didnt know how to test it before buying, so I installed the alternator and had the same problem I had before, started troubleshooting other related components couldn't find the problem as later I finally took the vehicle to the shop where I found that that alternator destroyed my battery; O'Reilly replaced the bad alternator but refused to reimburse me for the labor and the battery. I stopped buying anything from O'Reilly as a result of this experience.
You can also have an issue like I did. The alternator starts making a whining sound. It still output a 13.8 to 14.4 idle charge but one of the diodes were failing so it was putting A/C ripple into the battery which destroyed the battery over time. So a simple voltage check won't work when testing an alternator. You really need to check ripple current. That'll kill your electronics as well
Toyota uses the alternator to pump air to assist with 'soft' brakes. That's why the brake light turns on if there are problems with the alternator.
You mean vacuum, not air. All modern cars and most light trucks use VACUUM to boost brake pressure, and the others use hydraulic pressure from the power steering pump to boost that pressure.
Like you said about disconnecting the battery terminal on a modern car is spot on. I work at a big chain auto parts store and we install batteries for nothing. One day an employee was going to install the battery on a 2019 Toyota Highlander with tons of electrical systems. He left the car running. When he disconnected the battery the car shut down and wouldn't start again with the new battery. He even tried a jump pack with no luck. Another more experienced employee that used to be a mechanic told him that if you don't connect a battery maintainer to the OBD 2 port the car won't start because something about the computer needs to be reset. The customer was not happy because they had to have the car towed to a garage or the dealership to get the car back up and running. I had to change my battery in my 2018 Toyota Highlander XLE but before I disconnected it I used the OBD 2 maintainer. I had no problem with starting it. Oh the other point to make is don't just buy the cheapest battery you can find, most modern cars use an EFB ( enhanced flooded battery) or AGM ( absorbent glass mat) because of all the electrical systems and those batteries are designed for that.
My battery light is on. My alternator makes whining noise and reads 13.6 with load. I check the battery and it is fine. Will the whining create which lowers the voltage. Autozone says the voltages is fine, but I figured it's should be around 14 volts. New alternator?
Here's another great tip about testing your system for alternator and/or charging/electrical problems. If you notice your car acting funny, it may not be a bad idea to have your car electrical system tested by two different system testers. If both testers diagnose identical problems with your car, then chances are that is what is wrong with your car. I had this issue recently with my alternator. I took my car to two automotive parts store to have the battery and charging system tested. One place said that my charging system and battery was fine. Another stores system tester immediately told me that the voltage regulator on the alternator was bad. Scotty is absolutely right about failing alternators doing weird things in your car. When my alternator was going bad, I would notice that the battery light and a seatbelt warning light would flicker on and off when I was coming to a stop from driving any distance. Also, at nighttime, the headlights would periodically dim and brighten up. Finally, when the alternator got really bad, the CD player in the car stopped working and the car died in a parking lot. Thankfully, I called my dad and he was able to jumpstart the car and I was able to take the car home to get the alternator replaced.
Are O'Reilly alternators bad? OrAutoZone or NAPA?
Every day learn something new 😁
Thanx Scotty !
Best teacher I've ever seen & those pics are dead on to explain cars
Re-watch, STILL Learn more. there's so much or _i'm slow_ = ]
4:00 highly underrated comment. I replace my battery, alternator and starter because my car wouldn't start at time. The terminal and cables were nasty. Replaced the terminals and cleaned the cables. Right after that started right away and 1 year later still runs!
Growing up in the early/mid 70's I worked in a gas station where the owner would press in new bearings and replace the diodes. I learned a lot from him.
wish I had a fin spot for every one of those that I fixed in my 40 years as a mechanic.
Back in the day we had mechanics that repaired things vs being just component changers.
Scotty love the videos you made many good points with this one. One big thing you missed is belt slipping (squealing /screaching) and how that can ruin an alternator and is a big problem with low experience individuals diagnosing charging system problems. Keep up the great work
Ke4z Winz , mine makes this sound in the mornings but gradually goes away. Should I have my belt checked out or is this normal caused by moisture? Thanks
I had to have my alternator replaced on my 2006 Ford five hundred. After the first one, my charging light still was on, it worked, but the light stayed on. So, I took car to a different mechanic, he said the alternator was bad. So, I had him replace it. He said it took him three different alternators before one finally tested good for him to install it. My light wasbout, and it charged good. It goes to show, there is a difference in alternators.
Scotty, in colder states where salt is used on the roads for half the year, like Ohio, we have problems with chassis grounds corroding away. This was far more common in the '80s and '90s, but isn't unheard of today with trucks and SUV's. This will cause problems that look like the alternator dying, so if changing the alternator doesn't work, check the ground before swapping in another.
It's kinda freaky how in the last few days my battery light intermittently turns on and I'm worried that my alternator is going bad but I couldn't tell for sure... and Scotty comes along with this vid. Thanks Scotty!
Have you ever found the problem to that?
I've recently replaced just the Voltage Regulator in 3 Bosch alternators in German cars. Simple job: 2 or 3 small bolts & OEM Regulators cost $20 - 30. The Regulator normally has worn brushes & can be replaced in some cars without removing the Alternator; example: Mercedes 190e. Saves an hour + of pulling the serpentine belt & fan clutch & adjusting belt tension.
This video is amazing . I've had many vehicles in my lifetime , 3 of them had alternator issues , wish I would've seen this video sooner. But better now than never! Answers alot of questions I've been sitting on . Thank you once again Scotty, you rock ! !
When the alternator in the thumb nail looks exactly like the one you just installed 🤦🏿♂️
🤭
There arrent too many makes of alternators out there.
Probably no more than 5 or 6.
Not a very widespread product.
Fist
It looks exactly like the one I put in my car.
Literally😂
Tell me it's gonna be okay Scotty
Originally cars used magnetos : magneto from X-men pops up 😂😂😂. THX Scotty
Ghh Sen lmao
Aircraft piston engines use twin magnetos.
Drag cars still do. Top fuel anyway.
Also almost all small engines
That's right some cars , sow ing machines and some motocycles !! :-)
i long for the "good old days" my 71 chev van had a puny 37 amp alternator w/separate regulator that couldn't keep the battery charged when using lights heater etc at night. so i found an oldsmobile 62 amp alternator in the junk yard thats still with me after all these years. i also replaced my mechanical regulator w/a transistorized unit. GM was good that parts were interchangeable back then
Nice to see that you are up to date with the "new" alternators with LIN bus.Those alternators time to time, as you said, generates no voltage at all, so some people think that the alternator is broken, and is not, is running perfectly.Some car electricians take advantage of this to do their business, if you understand what I am talking about.
Used to be the manufacturer did the quality control, now it's the customers doing the QC, it's cheaper to just keep track of the number of returns.
Great info Scotty, but where does the "destroy your car" come into this?
What’s the difference between rebuild or remanufacture?
Hey Scotty, you left one "scenario" out. The alternator or battery light comes on when you shut off the car, but goes out when it is running. It's rare, but does happen. It is due to a shorted diode on the positive side of the "diode trio." The battery + voltage goes through the shorted diode and works its way back through the alternator electronics to the light bulb, and then onto the ignition circuit and finds its way to ground. That was in the old school alternators which had 3 sets of diodes: The output positive trio, the negative output trio, and an additional positive trio that was fed to the voltage regulator circuit to excite the field coil. Total of 9 diodes. Is there anyone else out there that is old enough to remember those systems? On a Chevy I used to own when I was in my teens, the regulator in the alternator shorted and fed full battery voltage to the field coil which boiled the battery and blew out a bunch of lamps, yet no battery light every lit up. LOL
Just going by what I've read online ,a remanufactured alternator is better than a rebuilt or refurbished alternator .
Some people's budgets don't allow for a new OEM alternator .
I had my 2010 Accord at a dealership service dept and it took them 2 days to figure out the alternator was bad .Wanted to charge me $763 for parts and labor .
Got a reputable mom and pop garage to tow it to their place .Bought myself a $200 alternator at Autozone a $79 EverStart battery at Walmart and the owner of the garage is charging $104 to install
Yes, sounds like the dealership was trying to sun dry you. The long wait can make some people feel like the excessive cost is justified.
Scotty you the man. Best UA-camr describing mechanic work with best info. Thank you Scotty Kilmer.
I used to rebuild Alternators back in the late 70s. Rebuilt can be okay if they are done right but many places reuse too much of the old parts. We put new brushes and bearings in all of them. The company I worked for used to cut corners on diode assemblies. Cheap diodes won't last either. We used to get batches where they wouldn't even make it off our test stand.
Just picturing Scotty driving a damn Opel Kadett just made me giggle hysterically.
We had one when i was a kid. Had a vinyl sunroof that leaked buckets when it rained. I think it topped out around 40 mph going up altamont pass east of SF. Semis would brush us cuz they were pissed we were in their lanes.
They traded it in on a new toyota corona in 69 or 70. Geek parents whattayagonnado.
I've always had good experiences with Auto Zones Lifetime Guaranteed Alts. We use them in our shop & install them with confidence 👍
Thanks Scotty, my truck has been has been shaking when idle and also when I use a power window switch. this really helped me a lot
My dad explained the differences between generators and alternators to me years ago. Thanks for reminding me of Dad.Your great Scotty!!!!
Scotty has officially became The National Master Mechanic of the USA....congratulations
Scotty 2020
I want to ask a question. I had my Nissan rogue select, after running fine the last 5 years, my alternator decided to go bad on me, the brake and battery light came on at the same time and when researched people said either bad voltage regulator or most likely bad alternator. So I went ahead, yes I did order a cheaper one online it was brand new and company supposedly had good reviews but wasn’t the OEM by Valeo. I got the new alternator in and replaced it. It started right up and when I put the voltage meter it showed 14.2 I drove it for about 15 or 20 minutes and then the brake light and battery light came on again and it started acting up and then when I shut it off and tried to restart it it wouldn’t start and so I jumpstarted it and it started up right away and when I put the voltage meter back on it only read 7.42. Could it be possible it’s not the regulator and i just got a faulty alternator since it did show correct voltage reading at first and then died and showed half the voltage shortly after?
Thanks Dr. Scotty! My granddaughter and I benefited from your lecture on the alternator/generator situation. Very helpful. However, last week you claimed to have cleaned your garage! But your credibility was stretched by the obvious lack of cleanliness in the background of the alternator/generator lecture. You have some explaining to do, because we are both English majors, and we remember stuff.
My 1995 Suzuki Swift HB 4cyl 1.3 sohc 5pd nearly 208,000 km altonator lasted 27 years! Just replaced last year! Was $450.
I just replaced my 1st gen scion xb alternator last week 😤 thanks for giving me confidence on working on my car Scotty!
Funny enough a mate of mine thought his alternator was stuffed.. I said check your terminals and battery before you rule your alternator is stuffed.. his battery terminals were badly corroded. Once cleaned off and tighten it was allgood lol
I remember back in the day when my 80s general Motors alternator went bad, I could pick up a rebuild kit for $14. It included new brushes, diode trio, and usually a bearing. You could replace it in no time at all. Now you have to get an expensive refurbished alternator it seems.
Mario Monti Yeah those days are long gone. Even the smaller ones GM used in the late 80s were a big pain. That little bearing on the rear that failed. Then take it apart and the rectifier is soldered to the stator. Nothing simple anymore. Non serviceable is the way now.
@@rexcars1835 I think the last one I ever rebuilt like I was mentioning, was in 84 and 85.
You said it Scotty. Alternator and starter or "rewind" shops are almost long gone. Luckily, we have a shop near us that does just that, they can take an old unit and rebuild them with new parts inside, sandblast the case, test and then sell them. Or, the customer can ask to have their existing alternator to be rebuilt and specify only high grade USA made parts be used. They can also increase the output at the same time they rebuild them if the customer/car requires it.
I literally need that I'm in Cali though
@@TheVamxie The shop is in Azusa, CA. Pro Auto Truck Electric Inc
He said it alright. I appreciate the sign language he does too. Bet good ole Scotty couldn’t make a video if he had to stand still 😂
I worked for the Big'O for 5 years and quit almost a year ago for various reasons. The alternators and starters come in three levels of quality: discount re-manufactured, standard re-manufactured and new. From the time I started to the time I left, the re-man parts were all done in Mexico and the new ones were from China.
Going from a DC generator to an alternator was one of the subtle changes made from the '64 and a half to the '65 model year Mustangs. I have an alternator on my '65 and get some drop off while stopped if I have everything running at once but it does quickly go back up once I start to move again.
You're going to have to tell us who does your landscaping. I really like that fan in the yard.
My mechanic was kind enough to replace my alternator belt (for a standard fee of course) when it would squeal in the winter with the radio, heater, and phone charger all running at once. It warmed up a lot faster in the winter after that. Thanks, Mr. Kilmer for your videos!
My original alternator failed on my Toyota around 250K miles. The car made it home on the battery. I charged the battery and then replaced the alt with an Autozone reman unit. It had some bearing noises but charged well. A year or less later the batt light came on and the wipers were running very slow. I measured the running voltage at under 12V. I removed the alt and brought it back to Autozone. The testing machine was down so they gave me another one. This one had low charge at idle and made some noises with different loads. It failed with in a year. Again, the machine was down. I wanted to see it was bad but knew it was. So far the 3rd replacement is working, about 3 years now. It is real easy to replace on this car or it would be a disaster.
I have a voltmeter in my Honda's power port and noticed the alt is not charging at the same rate all the time. I found the computer controls the charge as Scotty mentioned. It is 14.2V but drops to 12.5V under acceleration and idle, if there is a low load on it. This did not hurt battery life as I changed the original at 7 years knowing some cells were getting weak but it still started.
Brother Scotty and his superb instructional-videos have saved my butt on MANY occasions in the past. His GREAT pragmatic-approach to solving engine issues is the ONLY way to properly troubleshoot problems for sure!
I want to see him do it without talking with his hands, arms, whole body. Bet he couldn’t standing still 😂. Cracks me up.
I remember the days when you could buy kits to rebuilt your alternator and starters at home.
LOL I remember when I was young and had more time than money taking off an alternator (when it was a 2 minute job) to just replace the $5 defective part (brushes, diode trio, bearing) vs swapping in a $70 rebuilt.
I remember the days when cars cost a whole heypenny
@@buddymorrissey Sadly the alt/starter shops where I could buy parts from aren't around anymore.
@Roald Shakleton Nowadays, stuff is just thrown out. It's a disposable market place.
i still do
As I mentioned, the alternator is good and the battery is new, but the battery light is on on the dashboard. Could you please let me know what is wrong? Once again, both the alternator and the battery are good, but the battery light is on. It is a 2006 Ford Escape. Thanks.
Instead of worrying about gas mileage for everything. Maybe they should think about reliability again
kenneth gazella But, but, gLObAL WArmiNg
Unfortunately cars now are built with mileage first. Then maybe safety. They are reliable enough to work well for the actual customer, the person who drives it off the new car lot. After their lease is up and they dump it, the next owner is inconsquential. After about 5-7 years then they start breaking and all the electrical problems become a nightmare. And the 8 feet of timing chains. And the 59 speed transmissions. And on and on...
If car makers made reliable cars they also need to sell spare parts how is that going to happen if the car never breakdown
the only true way for much better gas mileage are lighter smaller cars and / or go carts . all these extra so called "ecoboost, efficiency gd I , turbo ecoboost ", etc.....all b.s.. bologna.....unless it's a hybrid or diesel , modern "efficient" cars get very little if any better gas mileage than cars from 20 years ago......
Psychedelic one either the parts or hey a new car! Don't you just love planned obselesence
A new alternator starter rebuild store just opened here in Alaska we bring our plow motors there. They do good work 👍
My 1998 Celica with 230k miles still has the original alternator. Works like a charm.
Consider yourself lucky then. That's an unnaturally long life for one! I wouldn't be surprised if the voltage output is weak at that age...
@@brentboswell1294 ...got a Scion xA (Toyota) with 251,000 miles. Drives like new...plus alternator never changed ( knock wood !). Running the Autool gauge pak and I see voltage during driving conditions and also when car has ignition "on" and not running.....still fine both ways.
Thank you for upload. I was unlucky enough to get a cam shaft sensor error code on my Ford. After changing the sensor, it came up again. Alternator has fixed the problem. I have a 20 yr old Ford, as time goes by and I strip it away to fix and maintain , China made comes up a lot. Most factories have moved there over cheap labor and silly contamination laws.
I love that you use the Opal as an example! Alternator went out on ours. My dad parked it in the driveway and some guy tried to steal the Opal. To his surprise it wouldn't start even though he let it roll down the driveway. What he didn't know was Dad had disconnected the battery too😉 The Opal was an ugly car but easy to fix 😂
Opel!
@@WoodgemanX I wasn't paying attention so my autocorrect changed the E to an A.... but Thank you for bringing it to my attention.
We had 1 of the 3 door Opel wagons😊
I learned to drive in a manual Opel station wagon
The idea of using a special tester for the Alternator is very good. However a cheaper method is to switch on the main beam lights, and rev the engine a little. If the lights get brighter the alternator is working. I used to work on radio equipment, and one of the best test pieces was a light bulb wired to the output. The bulb has a non-linear response so that a small change of voltage is very noticeable.. going from 12 to 13 volts almost doubles the apparent brightness.
Genius
There’s a guy in Bacliff, TX and he’s an OLD SCHOOL alternator & starter rebuilder. If you live between Houston & Galveston take your worn out stuff to him. (A-Alternator & Starter)
I have a 2000 tundra. The battery is 2.5 years old. 180k miles. The battery dies completely once, I jumped it then drove it in highway for an hour. It was fine for a few days. Then hesitated to start. The pedal felt dead for a few minutes then it died in the parking lot while driving. Alternator? Should I replace battery too if alternator is bad ?
Another thing I noticed too (also could be a bad battery) is if you have your headlights on, and you notice they dim briefly (even slightly) when you press on the brake pedal, that could indicate an alternator problem, battery problem, or some other issue (or all three).
My suggestion: if you see the battery light come on, check it out as soon as possible and address it. I had a battery problem (which turned into an alternator problem later) that ultimately caused one of the trucks I was driving, to die on a country road in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere. So when you see the warning light come on, figure out what's causing it and address it, because you don't want to be stranded in the middle of nowhere or worse yet, have your car die on you while driving in the middle of the road on the freeway. Most alternators I've seen will go at least 100k but i would have it checked periodically for its health to see that it's still charging normally and not wearing out (same for the battery).
Scott I've been here since you had 10 subscribers. I've promoted you since your 5th video. Proud to see what your channel has become. God bless you brother.
I really enjoy watching your videos a lot of information to know from you
Hey Scotty what if the remanufactured alternator has lifetime warranty? Would you still avoid the remanufactured?
I used to just check it with a voltmeter. 12.9 volts with the engine off after it had been sitting for a while generally meant the battery was fine. 14 volts with the engine running usually meant the alternator was ok.
That's how mine is. On a six year old rebuilt battery and an alternator I'm sure has never been replaced since it was made in 2000.
Btw from a good shop rebuilt batteries can be much better AND cheaper than factory new.
@@TruAnRksT only one of my cars ever needed the alternator replaced, and that was because it kept getting oil from a leaky engine in it. Under normal circumstances I don't think alternators should ever wear out.
@@AlexandarHullRichter They deal with a lot of power and often the diodes do go bad. That's about it. Well maybe the bearings might go bad.
@@TruAnRksT Is it usually when there is a lot of extra aftermarket electrical equipment, that that happens?
@@AlexandarHullRichter I have seen a situation where one bad diode does spoil the whole bunch. Where a car charged when it was running but slowly drained the batt when sitting. Since it charged when running this made it hard to find the problem. Completely stock.
Hay Scotty, 69 years old and still running my starter, generator and alternator rebuilding shop.
This man has infinite knowledge. Thanks Scotty!!! 👍🏻
And I see by your user image that you don't pay attention to any of it. Lol, I'm just kidding, I just bought a 2008 328xi.
Sagan Worshipper I don't have a BMW anymore, I need to update it 😂
What do you have now and what did you have before?
I used to have a 2015 M4, but now I have a (boring) Lexus of the same year 👍🏻
That's too funny, I almost bought a Lexus instead but I wanted a manual transmission. The only Lexus that comes with a manual option is the IS250 but they are hard to find and I kind of love this BMW so that's what I got.
The last car I had with a generator was the 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer that I inherited. It did not have AC or power windows, so there was never a problem. It had four gauges (remember those?), so you always new what was going on with oil pressure and the electrical system.
Another sign of alternator problem...headlights pulse at idle. Voltage regulator has one or two bad diodes in its bridge.
I had this happen to me 3 years ago with a new alternator and battery. Garage replaced the new one:same thing. Had to try a THIRD one.
Battery light too..whether solid or coming and going.
@@thomassullins8690 You bought two new alternators which both had bad voltage regulators?
@@garywilkerson6228 Total of 3 installed. Third one was rebuilt name brand and actually cost more than the brand new off'brands that were initially installed for the tune up. Shop owner said that they were made in Malaysia,and that when he had replaced one in his own car before a road trip,that he bought a second one to keep in his trunk in the box before he left home.
I had the same thing happen 10 years earlier on a different car. The third time that I went back to Advance,they gave me the name brand at no additional cost over the store brand,for self installation.
@@thomassullins8690 I am now exactly having this problem as you. I bought an alternator.. and it was a bad one... My lights would be blinking all the time. One day it died on the road. I took it back because I had a lifetime warranty.. and got another one. Now after 3 weeks with the other new one.. it's dead also.!!!
Am so mad because it's wasting my money paying the mechanic all the times.. plus more money for using a tow truck to tow the car. Autozone you can do better. Check with your manufacturer. This is so disappointing .
My 91 Volvo 740 Turbo sedan altinator died .Replaced with a rebuilt Bosch first one failed in 2 weeks was replaced for free. Next time so far lasted 9 + years! I paid $375
Made the mistake of buying the 1 year warranty alternator - lasted 14 months. Bought the lifetime warranty one to replace it - never had to touch it again.
Looking for advice. 2014 VW GLI. 170k miles (mostly highway). Should I pay the $400 for a new Bosch alternator (yes new, not refurb) or drive to Lomita here in LA and pay a guy $150 to rebuild.
3 years ago I had a generator rebuilt by a very old mechanic who informed me I would be his last customer. He wasn't kidding.
Did he die?
He switched to selling coffee. He's a barista now.
Ruben Lensvelt haha
@@pussinboots1145 He retired and went out of business. I don't know of any other alternator or generator shops still in existence. They're all gone, it seems. Like those upholstery shops that made so many shag carpet vans in the '70s.
I'm lucky in that there is still a shop that rebuilds things in the San Fernando Valley near Los Angeles. I never had issues with their rebuilds as they only used genuine parts. It's a shame so many shops close up because nobody wants to pick up the trade along with the fact that parts now are becoming more and more disposable. It's a sad state of affairs really.
Hi! I had a question. I would like to know what I should do. First, my 2001 Subaru Forester (S), would not pass smog. (I'm not aware of this history of my car since I purchased this car used during this pandemic time. I did take my car to a mechanic already. They were supposed to pin my splash plate up--but I can hear the a rubbing sound, so I know they must've done something wrong. I also told them that if I needed a tune up, they could do it. But they just replaced the headlights that were melted inside. (I cannot thoroughly explain that because I forgot exactly what they said.) So I'm driving the car one hundred miles afterward (@ over $5.00 a gallon), so the car can pass smog. I get to my house after the long drive, and suddenly, the check engine light comes on again. So, I make sure that I have an oil change the next day! They recommended there that I get a new battery because my battery was charging a little lower. Well, since I just spent a lot of money there, I decided to wait until I got paid until I purchased a new battery. I was driving my car yesterday to put another 100 miles on the car just in case I needed to before I had my car smogged! I never made it because while I was driving on the freeway, I began to lose power and so I made it over to the side of the road. I also had my mom with me on that trip. I'm 55 & my mom is 74--and so we are just sitting there. I know it's best to wait awhile and let my car cool down. It took hours and hours before we finally made it home as I could only drive the car in second gear. So I drove at apporx. 30 mph . . . until we got to AutoZone (miraculously)! They ran some tests and told me that my alternator is bad. I want to know if you think I should get a new battery first and then tow my Subaru to an Alternator shop? Or just tow the car & then let them either replace the alternator or rebuild it? And then get a battery afterward? I don't have a lot of money. I have a temporary sticker on the back of my car which is up on April 4th with the DMV. That bought me some time before I could get my car smogged! I so wish someone had told me that the cause of headlights dimming was because the alternator was going out. But, just so glad we made it home alive last night. I don't have very much money left now & what I did have, I had been saving. I appreciate your advice very much. I like your video's and have watched them before. Thank you.
Thank you for making this video Scotty!!! My dad owns an alternator shop and I work there too, this is the video I needed!!
Small family owned shops are the t
Whose parts do you put in?
@@williamsinger4124 tea boutique?
@@johnpossum556 La Colombe Coffee roasters beans. ...lol.
@@mael-strom9707 meant that small family owned shops are the best lol
My friend has a 2006 Toyota Sequoia. Their family was on the highway for a couple hours when the vehicle coasted dead to the side of the highway. Mechanic friend came out and said it was the alternator. Highly unusual. I do know the vehicle got stuck in mud at a horse stable two weeks prior, but issue with alternator issue not noticeable until the highway. The wife was gunning it extremely hard, spinning tires, until it got free. Could that have caused it?
Great video. Unfortunately, parts store reman alternators are very hit and miss (Advance-Carquest , Autozone-Duralast, Oreillys-Ultima). My limited experience has shown that the Carquest units are the best of theat bunch but they are not great. Even if you are lucky enough to get a good one the first time, it probably wont last more than a couple of years. Even though they have a lifetime replacement warranty with local stores , how much is your time worth to replace it, plus other costs involved if there is a breakdown ? I can't see how their "Professional" new alternators made in China, Malaysia etc could be much better. Are they worth buying ?
Howdy Scott! U're the best. I still need help to conclude on my alternator. My car is having a hard time starting but picks up each time i jump starts it. After running for miles and stopping, the car still won't start. I recently notice too recently the power window glass moves slowly even on idle. So i took a multimeter to test and realized the voltage from the alternator to the battery fluctuates from 12.7 to 12.88 to 13v to 9v then up and again. I just need ur expert opinion to confirm my conclusion.
Outstanding Scotty,I have to remind my friends to resist the temptation to disconnect one of the battery post while their cars/trucks are still running.
Or arc your jumper cables.
@@stuartcote4915 That's bad too.
In some vehicles you have to maintain power to the computer while you are replacing the battery otherwise you're in trouble.That's what I was told anyway.
@@tolrem That would be on Cadillac,those are known for this issue.
@mharris1270 I can tell this is way before your time,it was common practice to check your alternator by disconnecting your🔋⬅battery.
I am glad you mentioned other lights coming on cause of the alternator. I have seen diode trios go and lightly glow the charge light. but have seen the charge light not come on and seat belt lights, oil lights and even IP brake lights on. Not to mention false codes in modules. Another one was my mom's 79 Chevette with the 1.8 4cyl eng. Had an external ground wire cause they used a rubber pivot mount for vibration and the adjusting bolt got enough corrosion to. It had corroded from our salted roads. Get this the battery didn't go dead. But the floating ground raised hell with a lot of stuff on the car. And of course I wasn't a mechanic yet then. But my dad and I figured it out and got a good chuckle out of it. Along with a learning experience that really helped when I did become a professional mechanic later in life. Very goof video by the way.
There are still alternator/starter shops still around. The often specialize in truck/bus/heavy equipment. The one I use doesn't have exchange alternators or starters. They will rebuild yours and can give a one or two day turn around if they can locate the parts ( a problem sometimes with obsure equipment that you can't find a replacement for anyway). Their rebuilds are real rebuilds... they don't want to see it again anytime soon, 'cause it's bad for their business reputation.
Wish I had gone this route!!! Wuda saved me 1000 easily. That includes tow bills and paying shops to install new pos(made the mistake of buying new made in China alternator). Got one free replacement but they (napa) wudn give me another. Found another locally owned parts store that only sells quality US made new & reman and so far haven't had any more issues.
Just go to the junkyard and get an OEM one with low miles for $40. Well, that's what I do for my Jeep anyways.
If you got good quality service, give them a name check. Need to keep these guys going!
@@nickjames9555 That would be Dean's Alternator & Starter, Mauldin, South Carolina. 864-228-2842
They have a FB page too.
@@aceroadholder2185 I'm sure somebody will be pointed at Dean's rather than Cheap-Jack-Spares Inc - saved somebody some $$$ and pain:-)
Scotty, several years ago I worked in the aftermarket auto parts industry. From private owned to corporate as well as several franchises including the company that started out as an ACE Hardware, expanded to auto parts, planted stores all over Michigan Ohio and Illinois, went corporate and are now known as O'Reilly's. Anyhowz, unless everything has changed, Rebuilt parts typically carry the lowest warranty i.e. 30-90 day, 6 months up to 2 years however, Remanufactured parts are generally Lifetime Warranty but that's not the only difference. Rebuilt parts such as alternators are mass disassembled, parts sperated into bins, cleaned/degreased, and rusty or parts that still look dirty are painted. Maybe you've seen some pitted v-belt pulleys painted gold in the past. Some internals may be tested, but probably not until after it's reassembled then goes to a kinda sorta bench test. Go/NoGo/GoToLunch/GoHome etc etc... That's how you get home with a part that's DOA.
For Most REPUTABLE Companies and Stores the Remanufacturing Process is something completely different. First off, the cores, if they happen to be one of theirs are usually tested for cause of failure especially if the company has found an OEM issue and corrected it. I'm sure you can recall GM's CS Series Alternator that mostly failed due to the rear bearings overheating, cooking the bearing grease then things really got hot til it gave up the ghost and Nuked itself. Brand New, OEM or rebuilt replacements made no difference as all of them would still have the same bearing thus same problem. At least if you replaced it with rebuilt the store/supplier would probably help you out not if but when it failed again. And no junkyard pickin' of course.
Then came the Remanufactured Alternator with a Lifetime Warranty. Sandblasted cases with larger bearing housings bored to accommodate the larger higher quality bearings the GM denied being an issue, new pulleys, diode trios, electrical connections for the main battery post and voltage regulators, as well as bench tested by someone who actually understands how it should work, how to correctly use the test equipment and what to look for other than "Well, it kinda sorta spins?!?"
The Remanufactured Unit is BETTER than the OEM factory part.
How about Ford's I. A. R. Alternator? Y'know, the one that rather than having the old tried and true 3-4-ish wires attached to the back and an External Regulator on the firewall or fender or radiator support went internal. Some were originally manufactured to Ford's specs but others came from Nippon/Japan, as I recall but don't quote me on that. I do know it was either Nippon or Bosch. For some reason the imports didn't catch on fire when replaced like the Ford alternators did. Another bright idea. The Remanufacturer sent the replacements out with the main power pigtails locked in place. Yes you had to cut and splice you're harness. Take it up with Ford, period. LoL.
17 min.
I'm old school. I still love seeing the other side of the world like this so soon. Like the old Internet the way it use to be.
Big G'day and Howdy from Perth, Western Australia.
stefanavic howdy from Texas !
Gday from melbourne Victoria
Good afternoon from London in England.
My remanufactured alternator I bought from Toyota company....did I make the right move??
Hey Scotty, do me a favor, try to see if you can do a video standing completely still, no arm movement, no swaying side to side. Stand perfectly still and see if you can do one of your very informative video's.
He has to keep moving like a shark...lol
I have this question 2006 Nissan Altima, I have a 2,400 wat amplifier with 5,000 wat subwoofers max. I'm planning to install a 2nd battery in the trunk. Will one alternator charge both battery fine?
Hey Scotty! Thanks for all these videos. Watching this one made me remember something that maybe you or the community can answer. Girlfriend's work car (2000 Honda Civic) battery light came on. I checked with my meter and alternator wasn't charging. Went to Autozone for a replacement and for some reason I asked them to check the old one (oem Honda). Surprisingly it passed. Went back to clean and check the wiring. Still nothing from the alternator (tested the alternator directly). Went back to have them check it and it still passed but I brought a new one. Installed and worked perfectly. Put back old one to check one more time and still nothing so I left the new one. Question is what could have caused that?
My Honda van is having similar issues. I replaced the alternator and battery. The problem persists. Based upon what I've read, ELD or Voltage Regulator may be at fault.
Best alt. ? How long do they last ? Have one 14yrs now.
Lmaooo 8:25 "a lot of them coming from China and Mexico" the thumbnail to the right 😂
.. I though it was a guy breaking out of jail ... so I’m like THEY MAKE CAR PARTS IN PRISON!!!🧐🧐
Well done. I have a 1990 Volvo 240. Just put a new Oreilly's alternator in and got stranded- the battery light and brake lights on-lol. As I was walking out the door, someone behind the counter said " see you tomorrow"...How did he know that? I 'm learning what to do next, since I traded in the core and don't have the old one (bench tested at 8). The 2023 new battery was drained to nothing last week when the boyfriend decided it was the alternator. This is after a PVC replacement, mass air flow , throttle position, fuel regulator, o2 sensor. It's never ending. I also hear a clunk when I start her up. It all started a few months ago with some sort of fuel issue with acceleration. It was lurching. Makes sense it's the alternator because it's an EFI. Either way, you make informative videos and I appreciate it.
I went through 4 alternators in less than a year from autozone. Yes they offer a warranty, but it is a huge inconvenience when your car breaks down while on the road.
It took you 4 alternators to go somewhere else eh
Where'd you go
@@myalt1204 did you get dealer ship.or buy one online
@@jaredgarcia9055 wrong