Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels. At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more. Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on UA-cam) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job. Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀 And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ua-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-.html ☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info ⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐ ☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark ☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE ⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐ ☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com 🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒 - - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - - ☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available) 🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo 🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6 🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U 🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx 🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj 🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH ☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools 🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander 🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper 🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife 🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq 🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement ☑ Miscellaneous Tools 🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder 🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase ☑ Miscellaneous supplies 🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
Yeah, and I knew that, but finally gave in a doubted myself when I tried all purpose, and sure enough, it bit me. But sometimes we learn more from a mistake than doing it right. Now I know without a doubt to NEVER use all purpose over mesh tape. Thanks for commenting, and I can't wait to see the testing results too.
This is an amazing video! Thank you for this. As a contractor and carpenter I have tested adhesives and other products in the darkness of my own back-room lab. This is so generous of you to share. Great work.
I don’t like to use mesh unless its a larger crack. Paper for small cracks. All purpose will crack over mesh! Also when you sand it if wasnt a heavy coat of compound the mesh will break off in the compound making an even bigger mess. Not worth it in my opinion. Hot mud on mesh at least for first coat.
I've got over 20 years experience in all facets of drywall drywall drywall repair incorporated drywall techniques to repair plaster 100 yr victorians blah blah blah nowhere close to you though sir. I've never had problems with mess tape because I've only used it a few times. But I'm one of those crazy hand finished guys that Prefill everything like some auto tool guys .... straight out of the Box all Purpose. Patches, always use Fixall...amazing stuff. Dig your vids. The Mosquito bits is the best advice anybody ever gave me!
Mesh seems to work ok with plaster/plasterboard. I have even used it in the corners and ceiling. I would guess hot mud composition has similarities to plaster.
I did a flat joint with heavyweight all purpose and mesh tape 3-4 years ago. No issues... Yet. All because you can, doesn't mean you should. Duly noted. Admittedly I was in a hurry and a little drunk... We've all been there. Joint looks flat though 😂
Actually I have never used regular mud with mesh tape. What I have found is to make sure the cracks are filled up when using the easy sand or it will crack.. I like using the mesh tape because I can apply the tape first and then mud the wall.
I use all purpose but mix in the hot mud in my pan for the first coat of mesh tape unless I am repairing really old dry wall ill layer a decent amount of hot mud over the area I am working on simply because the moisture from the all purpose loosens the dry wall paper only you won't notice the signs until after a couple days
What type of taping compound did you use? I want to see a video comparing different types of taping compound. Here in northern ca we have Hamilton/ westpac and us. I hate usg, it doesn't sand worth a shit. But I usually use westpac red dot for my taping and topping. But I prefer using true taping compound and then topping for the rest of the coats. But I am curious as to the strength of these different products. I have always heard that you shouldn't use hot mud with paper tape.
I used green label USG all purpose. I am interested in testing the different muds. So if you want to list all the different ones you would like to see tested, and how you would like to see me test it, I would appreciate that. I plan on doing a lot more testing videos here in the near future.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I had to think about it. It's the usg 20 minute mud that i hate. And i realize that thought has turned in to me not liking usg at. Here's what i mainly use. Westpac/hamiltons red dot all purpose. It's rated for taping and topping. It shrinks a good amount. But will work well for all stages of drywall work. I prefer westpacs blue dot for taping and then green dot for all other coats. Green dot builds up well and sands with ease. But blue dot is hard to find. What most nor California home depot customers use is red dot for everything or red dot for taping and green dot for topping. Blue/ green is my preferred. The blue dot is super sticky and requires a little bit of scrubbing to remove it from skin and clothing. It would be nice to see these things in a real life comparison. Westpac has a good comparison pdf. According to their chart the tnt lite would be the best all in 1. I used it a few jobs back and didn't care for the texture of it. It felt chalky. I see a lot of people at home depot with boxes of the usg plus 3. It's the only usg mud that home depot's in my area carry. Maybe i should give it a shot. Let me know www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.westpacmaterials.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Westpac-Comparison-Chart.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjfup_ggKziAhUTCjQIHZTHDOAQFjAAegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw2VyKHxAj1cjKiAQ-2hlVWk
Ok, that makes sense. ANY of the USG hot muds don't sand worth a hoot. I skim coated a ceiling with it once and even with my porter cable sander and 80 grit, and even with my ability to put it on smoothly, it still was a workout to sand even a little. The plus 3 sands like butter. You can sand it with your hand. Once in awhile it actually sands too easy, lol. But it's the only mud I use unless taping, and then I use the USG green label all purpose, but that is GOING TO CHANGE, after I started testing these drywall joint tapes like I've been referring too. You'll see why when I post the video. Thanks for the ideas, I'll use that when I go to do a mud test video. Take care, Guy
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Doing some drywall patches right now and thought of another test. Does the liquid acrylic admix help with bonding? I am doing a few patches where door knobs have punched holes through the wall. The walls are painted with latex paint. Usually I would prime them with killz etc. But today I am using 20 min mud mixed a mix 50/50 water/ acrylic. Problem for me is that I know it will bond for a year and I will never see it again. But what about long term. Another question. What about wetting paper tape first? I have seen vids of people doing this. Does this help the bond? I am fairly new to drywall, I don't do much that doesn't get covered with tile. But I flop notice that I am getting better and better. I actually kind of like the trade.
The 1st day I tried just putting my 2nd coat on like normal hoping it would fix it, but it didn't so I ended up sanding that coat back down, then putting a heavy bead of caulking on the cracks and flattening them out with my knife like a big bandage. After that dried I recoated it one more time and it fixed it. Saw the owners a year later and still no problems, so it worked. Thanks for the question, Guy. 😎👣
I just did 2 tennis-ball sized holes where the customer had a dog-fence-rod on the stairway, with mesh and blue-lid for a customer. Gave it a full couple days to dry, haven't sanded/painted yet, and no cracks yet. Are these sizes small enough to be ok? Should i cut 'em out and start over? Surely you could still use blue-lid with mesh on something as small as 1"x1"? These were probably 2-3" diameter. There was a third larger 4" one i did with a prepackaged circular sheetrock/paper-tape plug that i also coated with the blue-lid, i hope that one turns out ok too. The hardward store had other options, like a solid steel/aluminum 6:x6" patch, but i skipped that (wisely i hope).
All I can say is I’ve seen a lot of them fail down the road because of using the wrong product. I have put on probably 500 rolls of mesh tape and I never had a failure when I did it right. But the one time I did it wrong I did have a failure. And if you used taping mud on paper tape or any product like that it should be fine just not on mesh. As for the aluminum plates with mesh on them, I’ve had to peel them off of Customer’s jobs where they tried to use it and they failed. I do not recommend them. See my video on how I patch holes if you want to know the right way to do it.
@@immeohmyoh just remember to always use green lid taping mud when you’re taping with paper tape and fast setting mud when you use mesh tape and you’ll be fine.
@@immeohmyoh Look at it like this, general purpose mud shrinks a lot as it dries; most water based products shrink as they dry/release moisture such as latex paint and concrete. Hot mud doesn't shrink or shrinks a very small amount as they dry due to chemical reactions caused by adding water, not a release of moisture. Paper tape has a lot of strength when pushed or pulled in any direction. The mesh tape has a lot of strength when pulled away from its middle but none when pushed towards its middle. Try crumpling both tapes in a ball and you'll see what I mean. When tapes are put on they are under some tension. Tension is part of what creates reinforcement. That tension with mesh is lost as general purpose mud shrinks, imagine the mesh crumpling inward. No tension means no reinforcement. Hot mud doesn't shrink so the mesh will not loose its tension. Paper can resist that tendency to crumple inwards and it absorbs some of the water in the mud so it will expand and contract along with the mud as they dry. Also, I believe that the hot muds tend to be a little bit stronger too but, I have nothing to prove that. Just trust the Kilted guy on this one. I also learned from experience not to use mesh with general purpose mud. About 20 years ago we gutted all the walls at my dad's house, we used some mesh here and there with general purpose on flats and butts when we ran out of paper and about 70% of the joints failed within a few years. In the garage, all the joints failed except the corners which were done in paper. None of our paper joints failed. Just as a side note, the repairs you mentioned in your origional post are they perfect scenario for hot muds with mesh. For repairs like that I usually use Durabond 5 or 20 to fill/tape and 1st coat then sand or moist-sponge it smooth and use light weight to make it perfect. I've also used Plaster of Paris and mesh for such repairs but you gotta be quick. I've tried the metal patches a few times and really didn't like them, but that's a matter of opinion. Apologies for the really long response. ;)
Thanks for answer my question and providing this link. Do cracks normally show up fairly quickly or over time for those who use all purpose joint compound on mesh tape, and if you are covering the job up with popcorn ceiling would the cracks show up? Thanks!
Could be fast or slow. Could show through popcorn but I don’t know for sure. I know it’s a bad idea to use mesh and all purpose. All purpose And paper tape or fibafuse is fine.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I started in drywall at 13, working holidays and summers installing . After high school I went full time for 12 years until chronic bursitis in my shoulders and a back injury pretty much ended my productivity. After some years pursuing different careers I returned to construction for my eldest sons commercial construction company and you guessed it, did the hanging and finishing. I am now retired from full time employment( I am 68) but still do repairs for my other sons painting and renovation as well as finishing some larger projects. I will do this until I am no longer able. Why waste the skills that I have spent decades learning . I also enjoy sharing techniques and proper use of materials. I thought that I knew everything but just when you thought that you did you find out something new, thank you! My father was the best finisher that I have ever seen, he was a very humble man and used a trowel and hawk. I have always used blades and never a machine of any kind, not even a bazooka. Keep up the great videos!
Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels.
At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more.
Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on UA-cam) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job.
Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀
And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall
Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg
Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com
Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ua-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-.html
☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info
⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐
☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark
☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE
⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐
☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com
🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒
- - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - -
☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available)
🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo
🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6
🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U
🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx
🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj
🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH
☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools
🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander
🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper
🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife
🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq
🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement
☑ Miscellaneous Tools
🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder
🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase
☑ Miscellaneous supplies
🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz
DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
Yes, only hot mud on the first coat with mesh! Been preaching that for years!👍🏻 Can’t wait to see the test results Guy!🔥😎
Yeah, and I knew that, but finally gave in a doubted myself when I tried all purpose, and sure enough, it bit me. But sometimes we learn more from a mistake than doing it right. Now I know without a doubt to NEVER use all purpose over mesh tape. Thanks for commenting, and I can't wait to see the testing results too.
This is an amazing video! Thank you for this. As a contractor and carpenter I have tested adhesives and other products in the darkness of my own back-room lab. This is so generous of you to share. Great work.
Glad it was helpful! And thanks for joining my community here as a subscriber. Guy
Thank you for your service and your knowledge
Thank you for your service Sir! God bless you.
Thanks Scotty.
I don’t like to use mesh unless its a larger crack. Paper for small cracks. All purpose will crack over mesh! Also when you sand it if wasnt a heavy coat of compound the mesh will break off in the compound making an even bigger mess. Not worth it in my opinion. Hot mud on mesh at least for first coat.
Thanks so much commenting. I appreciate it and thanks for your service!
I've got over 20 years experience in all facets of drywall drywall drywall repair incorporated drywall techniques to repair plaster 100 yr victorians blah blah blah nowhere close to you though sir. I've never had problems with mess tape because I've only used it a few times. But I'm one of those crazy hand finished guys that Prefill everything like some auto tool guys .... straight out of the Box all Purpose. Patches, always use Fixall...amazing stuff. Dig your vids. The Mosquito bits is the best advice anybody ever gave me!
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Mesh seems to work ok with plaster/plasterboard. I have even used it in the corners and ceiling. I would guess hot mud composition has similarities to plaster.
Carl I would suspect so. It's much harder and sticks better.
I did a flat joint with heavyweight all purpose and mesh tape 3-4 years ago. No issues... Yet.
All because you can, doesn't mean you should. Duly noted.
Admittedly I was in a hurry and a little drunk... We've all been there. Joint looks flat though 😂
Actually I have never used regular mud with mesh tape. What I have found is to make sure the cracks are filled up when using the easy sand or it will crack..
I like using the mesh tape because I can apply the tape first and then mud the wall.
I use all purpose but mix in the hot mud in my pan for the first coat of mesh tape unless I am repairing really old dry wall ill layer a decent amount of hot mud over the area I am working on simply because the moisture from the all purpose loosens the dry wall paper only you won't notice the signs until after a couple days
I use Knauf taping mud with mesh. If it is all straight lines: MP75. The more it gets complicated the better Uniflot is (but more expensive).
I only use hot mud on first coat of mesh tape and never had a problem in however many years it's been since its release 👍
That's the secret right there. You only need it on the first bedding coat. Thanks for commenting.
You're not Only a very Hot Plasterer! .. You're a Good Man!... Thanks for your helpful Help! ;)
You're welcome.
What type of taping compound did you use? I want to see a video comparing different types of taping compound.
Here in northern ca we have Hamilton/ westpac and us. I hate usg, it doesn't sand worth a shit.
But I usually use westpac red dot for my taping and topping. But I prefer using true taping compound and then topping for the rest of the coats.
But I am curious as to the strength of these different products.
I have always heard that you shouldn't use hot mud with paper tape.
I used green label USG all purpose. I am interested in testing the different muds. So if you want to list all the different ones you would like to see tested, and how you would like to see me test it, I would appreciate that. I plan on doing a lot more testing videos here in the near future.
I would also add that I mostly use USG Plus 3 and it sands super easy. What USG mud are you saying sands so hard?
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I had to think about it. It's the usg 20 minute mud that i hate. And i realize that thought has turned in to me not liking usg at.
Here's what i mainly use. Westpac/hamiltons red dot all purpose. It's rated for taping and topping. It shrinks a good amount. But will work well for all stages of drywall work. I prefer westpacs blue dot for taping and then green dot for all other coats. Green dot builds up well and sands with ease. But blue dot is hard to find. What most nor California home depot customers use is red dot for everything or red dot for taping and green dot for topping. Blue/ green is my preferred. The blue dot is super sticky and requires a little bit of scrubbing to remove it from skin and clothing. It would be nice to see these things in a real life comparison.
Westpac has a good comparison pdf.
According to their chart the tnt lite would be the best all in 1. I used it a few jobs back and didn't care for the texture of it. It felt chalky.
I see a lot of people at home depot with boxes of the usg plus 3. It's the only usg mud that home depot's in my area carry. Maybe i should give it a shot.
Let me know www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.westpacmaterials.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Westpac-Comparison-Chart.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjfup_ggKziAhUTCjQIHZTHDOAQFjAAegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw2VyKHxAj1cjKiAQ-2hlVWk
Ok, that makes sense. ANY of the USG hot muds don't sand worth a hoot. I skim coated a ceiling with it once and even with my porter cable sander and 80 grit, and even with my ability to put it on smoothly, it still was a workout to sand even a little. The plus 3 sands like butter. You can sand it with your hand. Once in awhile it actually sands too easy, lol. But it's the only mud I use unless taping, and then I use the USG green label all purpose, but that is GOING TO CHANGE, after I started testing these drywall joint tapes like I've been referring too. You'll see why when I post the video.
Thanks for the ideas, I'll use that when I go to do a mud test video. Take care, Guy
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Doing some drywall patches right now and thought of another test. Does the liquid acrylic admix help with bonding? I am doing a few patches where door knobs have punched holes through the wall. The walls are painted with latex paint. Usually I would prime them with killz etc. But today I am using 20 min mud mixed a mix 50/50 water/ acrylic.
Problem for me is that I know it will bond for a year and I will never see it again. But what about long term.
Another question. What about wetting paper tape first? I have seen vids of people doing this. Does this help the bond?
I am fairly new to drywall, I don't do much that doesn't get covered with tile. But I flop notice that I am getting better and better. I actually kind of like the trade.
Thanks for the info.
So how did you fix the cracks you mentioned at the end of the video???
The 1st day I tried just putting my 2nd coat on like normal hoping it would fix it, but it didn't so I ended up sanding that coat back down, then putting a heavy bead of caulking on the cracks and flattening them out with my knife like a big bandage. After that dried I recoated it one more time and it fixed it. Saw the owners a year later and still no problems, so it worked. Thanks for the question, Guy. 😎👣
Would you be able to just coat over the top with setting type conpound to fix it?
No
I just did 2 tennis-ball sized holes where the customer had a dog-fence-rod on the stairway, with mesh and blue-lid for a customer. Gave it a full couple days to dry, haven't sanded/painted yet, and no cracks yet. Are these sizes small enough to be ok? Should i cut 'em out and start over? Surely you could still use blue-lid with mesh on something as small as 1"x1"? These were probably 2-3" diameter. There was a third larger 4" one i did with a prepackaged circular sheetrock/paper-tape plug that i also coated with the blue-lid, i hope that one turns out ok too. The hardward store had other options, like a solid steel/aluminum 6:x6" patch, but i skipped that (wisely i hope).
All I can say is I’ve seen a lot of them fail down the road because of using the wrong product. I have put on probably 500 rolls of mesh tape and I never had a failure when I did it right. But the one time I did it wrong I did have a failure.
And if you used taping mud on paper tape or any product like that it should be fine just not on mesh.
As for the aluminum plates with mesh on them, I’ve had to peel them off of Customer’s jobs where they tried to use it and they failed. I do not recommend them. See my video on how I patch holes if you want to know the right way to do it.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thank you so much for your timely reply. Keep on kiltin'.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Just checked, one of them actually failed! I'm stunned! What's so special about lousy paper vs hard-core mesh! It's a mystery!
@@immeohmyoh just remember to always use green lid taping mud when you’re taping with paper tape and fast setting mud when you use mesh tape and you’ll be fine.
@@immeohmyoh Look at it like this, general purpose mud shrinks a lot as it dries; most water based products shrink as they dry/release moisture such as latex paint and concrete. Hot mud doesn't shrink or shrinks a very small amount as they dry due to chemical reactions caused by adding water, not a release of moisture. Paper tape has a lot of strength when pushed or pulled in any direction. The mesh tape has a lot of strength when pulled away from its middle but none when pushed towards its middle. Try crumpling both tapes in a ball and you'll see what I mean. When tapes are put on they are under some tension. Tension is part of what creates reinforcement. That tension with mesh is lost as general purpose mud shrinks, imagine the mesh crumpling inward. No tension means no reinforcement. Hot mud doesn't shrink so the mesh will not loose its tension. Paper can resist that tendency to crumple inwards and it absorbs some of the water in the mud so it will expand and contract along with the mud as they dry. Also, I believe that the hot muds tend to be a little bit stronger too but, I have nothing to prove that.
Just trust the Kilted guy on this one. I also learned from experience not to use mesh with general purpose mud. About 20 years ago we gutted all the walls at my dad's house, we used some mesh here and there with general purpose on flats and butts when we ran out of paper and about 70% of the joints failed within a few years. In the garage, all the joints failed except the corners which were done in paper. None of our paper joints failed.
Just as a side note, the repairs you mentioned in your origional post are they perfect scenario for hot muds with mesh. For repairs like that I usually use Durabond 5 or 20 to fill/tape and 1st coat then sand or moist-sponge it smooth and use light weight to make it perfect. I've also used Plaster of Paris and mesh for such repairs but you gotta be quick. I've tried the metal patches a few times and really didn't like them, but that's a matter of opinion. Apologies for the really long response. ;)
Thanks for answer my question and providing this link. Do cracks normally show up fairly quickly or over time for those who use all purpose joint compound on mesh tape, and if you are covering the job up with popcorn ceiling would the cracks show up? Thanks!
Could be fast or slow. Could show through popcorn but I don’t know for sure. I know it’s a bad idea to use mesh and all purpose. All purpose And paper tape or fibafuse is fine.
Have you ever tried finishing drywall without tape?
No. I’m going to try your product soon. Just too busy right now.
That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement
Just let me know whenever you have time. I can send you some samples for free. Thanks
👍
My story is very similar to yours! By the way my name isn’t “ Nancy” , she is my wife!
Cool. How is it similar
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I started in drywall at 13, working holidays and summers installing . After high school I went full time for 12 years until chronic bursitis in my
shoulders and a back injury pretty much ended my productivity. After some years pursuing different careers I returned to construction for my eldest sons commercial construction company and you guessed it, did the hanging and finishing. I am now retired from
full time employment( I am 68) but still do repairs for my other sons painting and renovation as well as finishing some larger projects. I will do this until I am no longer able. Why waste the skills that I have spent decades learning . I also enjoy sharing techniques and proper use of materials. I thought that I knew everything but just when you thought that you did you find out something new, thank you! My father was the best finisher that I have ever seen, he was a very humble man and used a trowel and hawk. I have always used blades and never a machine of any kind, not even a bazooka. Keep up the great videos!
Cool, thanks