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Paper tape has more shear strength where it counts. Mesh tape will show thru the seems because the wood moves especially in new construction. Mesh tape for repairs, paper for installation.
Good job there kilted guy. I agree with your techniques and or determination and reasoning for paper and mesh tape differences and preferences demonstrated here. For the do it yourself home owner or and how to education, tape and mud theories. For those who are learning the trades great video to learn from. Just happen to see this video and thought I would comment, and give this man proper credit for expert knowledge. From a fellow experienced home improvement and repairman.
I gotta thank you, after explaining which is better from one to another i was like "i hope he does a demo" and certainly you did! I was like "oh my God, he heard me!"😂😂 But its always great to get a demo of an explanation. Thank you so much
I should note that I have seen paper tape crack many, many times. I fix them all the time, so it's not going to stop cracking, But I've also fixed some cracks that were done with mesh tape, so it's really a matter of proper application, but if the house moves too much, or the walls just expand and contract too much, it will all still crack. So my recommendation is, if you are fixing a small hole, you can use mesh tape and hot mud, but if doing a larger project, the paper tape is your best bet. Let me know if you've tried either and how it went for you.
I seem to have more trouble coating mesh tape. I agree it can be quicker, but seems like I have to coat it thicker to cover the tape. Then need to feather it more. That being said, I am no pro though I have done more than you average diy’er by far I assume. I am renovating a house I recently bought and can tell it had been a while since I have done much in this line of work. Paper had more sheer strength than mesh? I did not know that.
Hi Steve Lapointe, thank you for commenting! I truly appreciate you taking the time to say hi, thanks or ask questions. I hope to hear from you again! 😎🦶🏼
According to one of the manufacturers paper tape is actually stronger than the mesh tape. And they make both so it's not like they're plugging paper tape because it's all they make.
I have seen tapers put mesh tape on joints and mix in a bucket Lightweight All Purpose Joint Compound with hot mud (hot mud makes it stronger so no crack). Then apply this mixture over the mesh tape
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I subscribed today !!! Just because I like to support good channel content and information. I personally have done a fair bit of homeowner work and I have screwed it up so darn many times it’s insane. Although I have not tried any of the stuff I watched you do. I certainly had some oh yes moments that I saw some learning moments for me. Great videos great bloopers along the way. Thanks for taking the time to produce this stuff.
Just sanded a whole house job down to the Sheetrock. Mesh tape was used everywhere, flats butts and corners. “Drywaller” used regular joint compound every joint cracked, everywhere. They even tried to hold broken sheet corners/edges together with mud and mesh. I worked for a company in Atlanta and we used mesh on flats with easysand it failed also. They got sued. Long story short the mesh company said mesh can be used on flats only with Durabond first coat (bed coat) on metal studs in a commercial application only as wood studs would shrink and swell over time. No residential, period. So be careful out there. Paper is the best in my opinion. And always clean your butt seams and broken pieces out. A clean edge will rarely crack. I also prefilled my joints/corners with easysand. Takes more time at the start but the results…. 0 callbacks Mike, 33 years exp taping
what is the best Mud to use with fibatape for the first and last coats? you said something about hot mud. and what's the best mud for texturing a ceiling?
For Fibatape, (mesh tape), you really should use hot mud for the first coat, which is the fast setting joint compound. A lot of guys call it Durabond, which is a brand name. You can use hot mud for every coat, but the disadvantages are it's quite a bit more expensive, a pain to work with since you have to thoroughly clean tools, buckets, etc between coats, and it's much harder to sand, despite the 'easy sand' wording on the bags I use. So I prefer to just do the first coat over the mesh with hot much, then the final coats with regular lightweight all purpose. In my area I prefer the USG Plus 3 lightweight all purpose. By putting the first coat on of hot mud, it's much tougher, and the big thing is there's very little shrinkage, about 70% less than using regular all purpose. So you need fewer coats of regular mud, or at least much less of it. You can see me do all that in my video about repairing a large hole at: ua-cam.com/video/JoWWE7d7UU8/v-deo.html As for texturing the ceiling, I do ALL my texture, whether by hand or sprayed with the Plus 3 box mud. You just have to thin it down differently for different types of texture. I'll be doing videos explaining that soon as well. Hope that helps. I'll be releasing some 'how to finish drywall' videos soon, so look for those. But I'll probably do a separate video about coating mesh vs taping with paper tape and then coating with regular mud like we do on full size jobs.
Thank you. I know that I'm more skilled than most people doing drywall finish work, and wanted to be able to pass that knowledge on to others, in a clear manner, so I'm glad to hear it's working.
very informative video. I have an older manufactured home with 12' x 16" ceiling panels that are stapled together and glued to 1/8th" plywood that's nailed to the ceiling frame. There is a gap of approx, 1/8" between each panel. I want to texture the ceiling so that the gap is no longer visible and the ceiling looks uniform. I would appreciate it if you tell me which of the following procedures is best, if any, to prepare the ceiling to have a texture sprayed on. I have received different opinions. #1: apply mesh tape and apply a skim coat to the entire ceiling and then spray the texture. #2: put hot mud first then apply the mesh tape then apply a skim coat to the entire ceiling then texture. #3: apply mesh tape, put a coat of hot mud over the tape then a skim coat over the entire ceiling then texture. Thanks
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I first held a 6" knife in my hand 50 years ago, at the age of 8, when my dad put me on stilts so I could spot nails on an 8' wall, so I am best at using knives all the way. I can use a trowel, but I'm not quite as fast and I don't like the idea of switching back and forth between a pan and a knife since you can't do everything with a trowel. I feel they both work fine, but it's more about what feels and works best for you. For beginners, I recommend a pan and knife for simplicity.
As a DryWall repair business i like going into a job and seeing that the homeowner used mesh tape it always fails i then can make some money repairing it with Fibafuse and Proform brand mud
I did new construction for 15 years and then 15 years of nothing but repairs so I’ve seen my share also. But I can guarantee you that 99% of them fail because they use all purpose mud over mesh which is a no-no. I’ve gone back to many many of my jobs and my repairs have never failed because I do them properly with hot mud. many years ago I made the mistake of using all purpose over mesh tape and I got a lot of cracks so I learned the hard way.
I'm a general contractor in Maryland and DC but I also want to learn from the pros who specialize in one trade to give my clients the best results. What is the best tape to use inside of a garage that does not have insulation. Thanks, in advance
I'm putting out classes to teach all kinds of important tips and tricks like this at www.drywallacademy.com, but probably fibafuse and hot mud if you don't want to sign up
When you are doing a large ceiling repair where you put in a square and have the gap between the new sheet and the old with sticky mesh tape do you fill the gaps first, then tape or do you tape then just mud over it? Thanks.
I want to know what is the best way to tape butt joints because I've used fibre tapes and used cgc sheet rock Durbabomd 90. And sad to say it cracked in my bathroom. I'm one spot.
Was the panels fastened so that there was no movement? Sometimes the framing or sheet rock isn't fastened properly so the movement will crack just about anything. When this occurs on repairs where I just can't add enough fasteners I'll v groove the crack out between 1/4in-1/2in . Prepack with an elastomeric compound and proceed as usually. Make sure to blow out the crack as the dust & debri can effect adhesion
I’ve had mesh tape crack before when I didn’t pre fill the butt joints, and I used a light weight easy sand joint compound. It was a Lowe’s brand. So I stopped using that brand for one. And two, I now pre fill all joints with hot mud. Then I apply my mesh tape and continue the process as Normal. I really do believe it was the brand and type of joint compound I was using. I remember being impressed with how easy it sanded, it was a soft joint compound once it was dry.
I 100 hundred percent believe that the problem is mostly that if you use any joint compound besides a fast setting joint compound over mesh tape, it is much more likely to crack. So I always suggest using hot mud over mesh tape for the first coat. And pre-filling bigger cracks is a good idea to. Thanks again for the comments. Guy
i did a repair my wall 2 mouth ago and use mesh tape and all purpose mud and it cracked all ready how do i fix it now do i remove old tape and mud ....and what hot mud do i need. thank you
Well if you can remove the mesh tape then do it. If it’s too difficult, Your best bet is to retape it right. If using mesh tape any hot mud will work. Try 45 minute, or 90 if doing a lot. This will create a hump you now have to float out about 24” wide like in my ceiling repair videos or my butt joint video
+Jim black, I honestly haven’t done new construction in nearly 20 years, as I've specialized in repairs and small jobs for a long time now. But anytime I do a larger remodel type job, I always use paper tape. And I am pretty positive that it is required by code in garages due to fire code. I would never attempt to fire tape with anything but paper tape. But here’s the thing, you really need to check with someone local because codes can vary in different geographical areas. Thanks for the question, and thanks for being part of the Kilted Guy community.
My pet peeve, at 7:39, you say that it "dries so fast and sets so hard". Setting and drying are 2 different things. Setting compounds will set fast, but still take time to dry out.
You’re right, they are different things. But at the same time, fast setting joint compound does dry a lot faster because of the chemical reaction. I basically showed how much faster it dries in this video - Which Joint Compound do you Need? Fast setting or All Purpose? I'll teach you all about them. ua-cam.com/video/vRKrSm2aHuQ/v-deo.html Thanks for pointing that out.
Thanks Peter. I've gone back to many of my jobs years after doing them, and never find any cracking or other issues. I can't even tell where I worked on them, other than by memory. So if used correctly, it works fine and can be a big time saver. Guy
He’s right mesh tape with hot mud can be stronger than regular tape , if you run your mud to thin using paper tape or wipe to much off from behind it , it does not hold very good , if you use paper tape right it very strong to . We do a lot of build outs that require demo ,new walls and drywall. We do all the work in house . We have demoed walls that where hot mud and mesh tape and the mesh taped held up good
There's not a whole lot you can do except to work faster, limit the airflow to the work area, and cool off the room. Thanks for the comment and I hope that helps.
When using paper tape, I've always gave it a coat with my 8" same day. Then 10 and 12" if need be. Walls came out nice. I almost bought that fiber one, glad I didn't.
Can mesh tape be used with regular all purpose joint compound (not hot mud)? If so, can i just tape and mud? Or do i have to do the 3-step mud, tape, mud? And if I can't use mesh tape, what would you recommend? Fiber tape? Paper? Also, I've been enjoying all your dry wall tutorials! Thanks a bunch!
Started a new finishing job 25 years experience, this new job all paper tape no mesh no Dura Bond on bead it's killing me. Nail on bead plus three ! Gonna crack. Movement equals crack ... old job meshed flats only now gotta wait for paper to dry and shrink slowing me down . Hatin
Great, thanks. Starting to love your videos. Not sharp or flashy, but just informative and educational, and that's why I'm here. So if you are fixing a large crack, you don't put any plaster in the crack first? You just tape and plaster over it, or are you skipping that to keep the video short? I thought the tape was only for the finish.
Thanks, glad to hear. As for repairing large cracks, I try to prefill those wider than about 1/8", but they often droop so you have to scrape them level once they set, (for hot mud) or sand level for regular drywall mud. You can see how I handle scraping hot mud on my video for repairing larger holes at: ua-cam.com/video/JoWWE7d7UU8/v-deo.html I plan on releasing a video on how to repair larger cracks specifically. This video was just to show the differences in paper tape vs mesh tape. I also have a video showing how to repair a small hole with mesh tape you might want to check out at: ua-cam.com/video/O4i3dfK0Gl0/v-deo.html (Note that plaster and drywall are really two different things, though similar, and I don't work on plaster). Hope that helps, and thanks for the question.
Here's a link to one online- bit.ly/2xv96hd If you have a lot to install, it really speeds things up. Using that link helps our channel with a small commission but costs you nothing more. Hope that helps.
I've heard guys say if you use hot mud with mesh tape it will crack do you know if this is true i've been taping for about 8 to 10 years i have never used mesh tape
Wayne Ermine i've probably installed 5 miles of mesh tape and have used hot mud 98% of the time. I feel it is stronger and more reliable than using regular joint compound. In about 15 years of doing nothing but patch and repair work, I've never had a call back over a crack, or really anything else for that matter. There's so much speculation out there and misinformation, so I hope that helps clear up one more thing. Thanks for stopping by.
I should also add that in the past year I've had to go back and do more work on jobs I worked on years ago, as the owner just had more projects. On one job I repaired over 100' of cracks as the house was terrible. NOT ONE of my repairs from years ago had re-cracked. I have had some crack, but only when I tried using all purpose in the past, and I learned my lesson. It works very well with hot mud, but terrible with all purpose. And again, I've fixed LOTS of cracked joints that had paper tape on them, so they all can crack with movement, etc, but done right, they are all good products.
Do you do your inside corners with mesh tape? I’m doing a job this week and I was going to just use the mesh for the inside corners but i bought paper tape Incase I change my mind. You have awesome vids btw.
I have used mesh tape on inside angles but, rarely as I don’t think it’s as strong that way. I would suggest using the paper tape or even the fibafuse. Thanks for your questions and all your previous comments.
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Glad you found it helpful. I'll be releasing a more in depth drywall taping video soon showing how to tape with mesh tape, paper tape, and a new product I really like called Fibafuse. Wait until you see that stuff, it's truly Cool Beans. And thanks for stopping by!
Damn, now Im confused; I could swear I have seen a bunch of these videos where guys will lay the mud down first, then put the paper in, then they will lay some more mud on top in the same day time. Yet in the video you say after putting the paper tape, to wait till the next day to mud over.
Hello, taping it and coating it at the same time won’t actually hurt anything, but it will shrink so much that you will gain very little. I’ve tried it at times and you still have to coat it the same number of times so it may not hurt, but it’s kind of a waste of time. Also, you should never put mud on really thick because much over 1/8 of an inch and it doesn’t dry properly. Plus it will take days to dry when it’s that thick. If you use fast setting joint compound, then you can coat multiple times because it chemically dries and doesn’t shrink much at all. I’m actually going to be doing a video real soon about how thick you can put mud on, and the advantages of hot mud so be sure and subscribe and you will see that comparison. Thanks, Guy
I've just found it to be mostly a waste of time to coat it immediately after taping it. Each coat needs to dry, and it will shrink each time. Coating right after taping, well it WILL shrink, and won't look very good at all after it dries, so it still requires 2 more coats. So it's time wasted imho. Guess I need to do a video demonstrating this some time. Plus, here's what USG says - "Should I wait for the taping coat to dry before applying the next coat? Yes. Each coat must be completely dry before applying the next." I believe the manufacturer knows a thing or two about their product, so over the years I've actually read boxes and bags of products to see what they say. Like using ONLY setting mud over mesh tape, I learned that by reading, and from making the mistake of not doing it that way, once...
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Using paper tape, I will embed it in hot mud then run a second coat on it the same day. I really, I can finish the third coat with regular mud the same day. I am doing some now and realize how long it had been since I have done any mudding. I am very slow! The mud I have bought seems harder to work with than I remember. Some very hard to sand.
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The problem with the mesh tape with any butt joints is when you put the tape first and then mud it you will not able to fill the joints properly ,By apply mud first and then the tape u able to seem the butt joints properly
Terrance, you can use it for inside angles, but it's a bit difficult. I do it all the time, but if you're not a journeyman what happens is it's kind of hard to get it square into the corner. And if you don't, it's really easy to cut through the mesh when coating it, rendering it ineffective. If you get it nice and square in the angle, and are careful, you can do it. Otherwise, stick with paper tape. I'll be releasing a video soon showing how to tape inside angles with mesh tape. Thanks for the question and let me know how it goes.
They have scientifically proven that paper tape is stronger than mesh. However that is the same scientific tests as the Auto Industry claims about their MPG, based on perfect weather conditions, ideal road surfaces and a professional driver behind the wheel. I've used both types of tape interchangeably with the exact same results. I generally use paper in the corners (as it is pre-creased) which makes it easier to install and mesh on the other joints. In the UK we coat the entire wall and all we use is mesh tape to reinforce the joints. I've even put the paper on "backwards", for the purists out there, without issue. Now some go with the method that if it is "wall to wall or floor to ceiling then use paper", again each to their own. If your house or wall is cracking then you have a bigger problem that which drywall tape you are using. Could be a prefilling, compound or even a structural issue.
Agreed. The MOST common reason I see for failures of mesh tape, and I've seen many, is the use of regular joint compound under mesh tape. Even happened to me once when I tried it, knowing I shouldn't. I can tell when I peel the tape off if it's hot mud or not. IF hot mud cracks then either you have an issue repairing won't fix, or it was done wrong. You also have to re-screw off the cracked drywall to strengthen it. I've sub contractors on here tell me they taped a repair and it re-cracked. I ask about the screws and often they failed to do that, or they used All purpose. I've had like 1 callback in 15 years of doing nothing but drywall repairs, so I know mesh tape is fine, if you use it right.
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Ok I have plenty of experience. I ran commercial sites, for a drywall/ framing company, like 50,000 sqft office buildings. I hated mesh tape. In corners, if your knife hit the mesh on other side it screwed up the work. If it gets sanded to much the threads pop. Try to cover that. Paper tape allows you to use less mud. Yes I would add another 10in coat first day. More mud is not better. He's doing one room, try a 150ft hallway. Mesh tape with more mud causes waves you can see. Butts will never be in the plane of the wall, so the less mud a nice feather and it's not really noticable. No mesh
I only use mesh on repairs, and never in angles, and always with hot mud. I've tried mesh on larger jobs and don't care for it, but had great results as I saw the owners a few years later and they were still happy. Technique, skill and experience matter though. Not all drywallers can use it right.
This guy says mesh tape is better, another guy says paper tape is better in every way, I don't know what to think. I already bought mesh tape so I guess I'm going to try that. Hope it works
I say they all work great. But novices often screwup paper tape so mesh tape could be easier although it requires using fast setting mud which can be a challenge for novices. If you want the simplest, use fibafuse and all purpose mud.
Fill voids with setting spakle……tape over ….then spakle again with setting spakle….finish with premix ….remember feather out from joint …….less is better when spakling …..practice …..be neat……
as a contractor, I find paper tape is better for install/new drywall, and mesh for patches, and repairs. Im actually say I "hate" mesh tape, but thats just cause so many people use it wrong.
I'm with you on all points. I like paper tape for new construction, remodels, etc, and mesh for repairs, but you do have to use it right. The advantage for amateurs is you can just stick the mesh tape on and never get a blister, but with paper tape, non pros almost always get blisters, bad wrinkles, etc. Thanks for the comment, Guy
You show embedding mesh tape into wet durabond in your video about repairing plaster cracks (starting at 12 minutes in). This seems to contradict your advice in this video which I intend to follow instead. Other good videos by the Toronto guys explaining plaster crack repair also skip the messy embedding process.
I disagree.... fiberglass tape will crack with out a bedding coat. gotta use a bedding coat for corners. either tape will work for flat or corners but it must be bedded in both cases. the advantage mesh tape is that if you have a helper they can cut and stick the mesh while you are mudding without a bazooka. Saves a huge amount of time if you don't have a bazooka, but you must bed mesh tape just like paper tape. sure it will last for a year or so with out bedding but eventually will cause problems, especial in a humid environment like a bath or laundry. I've been doing mudding for 40 years and can always tell when someone fails to properly bed tape, paper or mesh....put it to bed and it will sleep for a long time.... I like the hot mud too....Knife angle and float is just experience.
In the past year I've had to go back and do more work on several jobs I worked on years ago, as the owner just had more projects. On one job I repaired over 100' of cracks over 1 1/2 years earlier as the house was terrible. NOT ONE of my repairs from years ago had re-cracked. I have had some crack, but only when I tried using all purpose in the past, and I learned my lesson. It works very well with hot mud, but terrible with all purpose. And again, I've fixed LOTS of cracked joints that had paper tape on them, so they all can crack with movement, etc, but done right, they are all good products.
+Thomas Reed , I would have to disagree. One advantage mesh tape has for beginners is there is no chance of a blister, where they either didn't put enough mud on to bed it properly, or they wiped it too tight forcing too much out. Both paper tape and mesh tape still require the same amount of skill to coat them. So I would recommend mesh tape for beginners actually. What reason what were you thinking of?
Hot mud is the best for sure. I have experimented with using regular all purpose and 99% of it did not crack, but there were several areas that did, so I agree that it's best to use hot mud, which is technically known as Fast setting joint compound. At 5 minutes into the video, I do mention this and show a picture of some hot mud. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for stopping by and checking out our channel.
steve beuchert wrong, I've done a tons of jobs with mesh without hotmud and never had any issues anywhere it's about the application not the type of mud
Hmm, channel name is That Kilted Guy, so you're obviously not smart enough to know what a kilt is. So pull you're diaper up son, and crawl back to your mommas bossum and come back when you grow up, lol. You're insults don't work on a real man, sorry kid. You'll grow up one day, maybe.
Quit messaging me for a date dude. I'm not into that stuff. I got your 10 emails telling me what you want to do to me, and I'm not into it. Sorry, I know you said that was just between you and me, but man, you're hard up.
You so clever. I so impressed, I think I go tell everyone how I have such an intellect putting me down on my channel, with 10,000 subscribers, and you have, oh wait, 5, oops, my bad. You're words tell everything about your lack of intellect. I'll be retired and making 50k a month by the end of the year, doing nothing but helping the other hard working good people learn these skills, and you? Oh yeah, you'll still be trash talking trying to build yourself up, lmnao. Keep replying with more good humor, as each comment builds my channel and makes me more successful. Thanks kid.
No but here’s one since you requested it. Did you hear the one about the UA-cam troll who walked into a channel and made rude comments? He didn’t mesh well with the intellectual guy with 30 years of experience teaching the video. 😂 😂 😂
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I totally understand the burdens & challenges life brings. Praying for you & your loved ones.
I’m a landlord and have to patch and paint a lot. I now use paper tape and hot mud. I’ll either add glue or use durabond to prefill and tape.
Paper tape has more shear strength where it counts. Mesh tape will show thru the seems because the wood moves especially in new construction. Mesh tape for repairs, paper for installation.
That only works in Vancouver. Prolly.
Good job there kilted guy. I agree with your techniques and or determination and reasoning for paper and mesh tape differences and preferences demonstrated here. For the do it yourself home owner or and how to education, tape and mud theories. For those who are learning the trades great video to learn from. Just happen to see this video and thought I would comment, and give this man proper credit for expert knowledge. From a fellow experienced home improvement and repairman.
Thanks for the comments!
I gotta thank you, after explaining which is better from one to another i was like "i hope he does a demo" and certainly you did! I was like "oh my God, he heard me!"😂😂
But its always great to get a demo of an explanation. Thank you so much
Awesome, I"m glad to hear that. Take care, Guy. 😎👣
Great info. I’m currently doing my own home repairs since we are still quarantined. This really helped me a lot.
Glad it helped
I should note that I have seen paper tape crack many, many times. I fix them all the time, so it's not going to stop cracking, But I've also fixed some cracks that were done with mesh tape, so it's really a matter of proper application, but if the house moves too much, or the walls just expand and contract too much, it will all still crack. So my recommendation is, if you are fixing a small hole, you can use mesh tape and hot mud, but if doing a larger project, the paper tape is your best bet. Let me know if you've tried either and how it went for you.
What do you mean hot mud thanks
@@adrianthomas2251 He says it a few times in the video - Hot mud = fast setting drywall compound
I seem to have more trouble coating mesh tape.
I agree it can be quicker, but seems like I have to coat it thicker to cover the tape. Then need to feather it more.
That being said, I am no pro though I have done more than you average diy’er by far I assume.
I am renovating a house I recently bought and can tell it had been a while since I have done much in this line of work.
Paper had more sheer strength than mesh?
I did not know that.
I agree i prefer using mesh over paper tape, thanks for video, i only use the mesh that is adhesive
Hi Steve Lapointe, thank you for commenting! I truly appreciate you taking the time to say hi, thanks or ask questions. I hope to hear from you again! 😎🦶🏼
So glad about this video because i had the fiber one in my menards cart. Now i will get the yellow tape and the wen sander through you.
According to one of the manufacturers paper tape is actually stronger than the mesh tape.
And they make both so it's not like they're plugging paper tape because it's all they make.
I have seen tapers put mesh tape on joints and mix in a bucket Lightweight All Purpose Joint Compound with hot mud (hot mud makes it stronger so no crack). Then apply this mixture over the mesh tape
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I subscribed today !!! Just because I like to support good channel content and information. I personally have done a fair bit of homeowner work and I have screwed it up so darn many times it’s insane. Although I have not tried any of the stuff I watched you do. I certainly had some oh yes moments that I saw some learning moments for me. Great videos great bloopers along the way. Thanks for taking the time to produce this stuff.
Thank you!
Man I love your videos. You do such a great job answering ALL my questions! Keep up the good work
Glad you like them! Thank you
Enjoy your videos!!!!!! What about end pieces near the trim.
I don't see how that would change anything. If you use paper, stick with paper, etc.
Just sanded a whole house job down to the Sheetrock. Mesh tape was used everywhere, flats butts and corners. “Drywaller” used regular joint compound every joint cracked, everywhere. They even tried to hold broken sheet corners/edges together with mud and mesh.
I worked for a company in Atlanta and we used mesh on flats with easysand it failed also. They got sued. Long story short the mesh company said mesh can be used on flats only with Durabond first coat (bed coat) on metal studs in a commercial application only as wood studs would shrink and swell over time. No residential, period. So be careful out there. Paper is the best in my opinion.
And always clean your butt seams and broken pieces out. A clean edge will rarely crack. I also prefilled my joints/corners with easysand. Takes more time at the start but the results…. 0 callbacks
Mike, 33 years exp taping
Excellent stuff - many thanks for sharing your expertise
Jeremy, thanks for watching my video and for your comment. Take care, Guy
Very informative thank you,I'll be patching a lot of holes in my rental homes.this time using mesh tape
Larry, be sure and watch my repair video too. It will help you a lot. ua-cam.com/video/eYo0Q4NggJ4/v-deo.html
what is the best Mud to use with fibatape for the first and last coats? you said something about hot mud. and what's the best mud for texturing a ceiling?
For Fibatape, (mesh tape), you really should use hot mud for the first coat, which is the fast setting joint compound. A lot of guys call it Durabond, which is a brand name. You can use hot mud for every coat, but the disadvantages are it's quite a bit more expensive, a pain to work with since you have to thoroughly clean tools, buckets, etc between coats, and it's much harder to sand, despite the 'easy sand' wording on the bags I use.
So I prefer to just do the first coat over the mesh with hot much, then the final coats with regular lightweight all purpose. In my area I prefer the USG Plus 3 lightweight all purpose. By putting the first coat on of hot mud, it's much tougher, and the big thing is there's very little shrinkage, about 70% less than using regular all purpose. So you need fewer coats of regular mud, or at least much less of it. You can see me do all that in my video about repairing a large hole at: ua-cam.com/video/JoWWE7d7UU8/v-deo.html
As for texturing the ceiling, I do ALL my texture, whether by hand or sprayed with the Plus 3 box mud. You just have to thin it down differently for different types of texture. I'll be doing videos explaining that soon as well.
Hope that helps. I'll be releasing some 'how to finish drywall' videos soon, so look for those. But I'll probably do a separate video about coating mesh vs taping with paper tape and then coating with regular mud like we do on full size jobs.
thank you kilted guy. I appreciate the info.you have been a big help.
Your videos are good, probably the most informative videos I have found on this type of work. Keep up the good work it's greatly appreciated.
Thank you. I know that I'm more skilled than most people doing drywall finish work, and wanted to be able to pass that knowledge on to others, in a clear manner, so I'm glad to hear it's working.
When do you treat bad soot damage
Can the yellow mesh be use in shower seams?
They actually make a special tape for those seams. I think it’s gray in color.
very informative video. I have an older manufactured home with 12' x 16" ceiling panels that are stapled together and glued to 1/8th" plywood that's nailed to the ceiling frame. There is a gap of approx, 1/8" between each panel. I want to texture the ceiling so that the gap is no longer visible and the ceiling looks uniform. I would appreciate it if you tell me which of the following procedures is best, if any, to prepare the ceiling to have a texture sprayed on. I have received different opinions. #1: apply mesh tape and apply a skim coat to the entire ceiling and then spray the texture. #2: put hot mud first then apply the mesh tape then apply a skim coat to the entire ceiling then texture. #3: apply mesh tape, put a coat of hot mud over the tape then a skim coat over the entire ceiling then texture. Thanks
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From Oamaru New Zealand thanks for the simple delivery of information. Now do you prefer tape knife or trowel for tape to final finish coats?.
I first held a 6" knife in my hand 50 years ago, at the age of 8, when my dad put me on stilts so I could spot nails on an 8' wall, so I am best at using knives all the way. I can use a trowel, but I'm not quite as fast and I don't like the idea of switching back and forth between a pan and a knife since you can't do everything with a trowel. I feel they both work fine, but it's more about what feels and works best for you. For beginners, I recommend a pan and knife for simplicity.
Mesh tape is for fast drying (quickset or durabond) materials. Joint tape can be used with ready mix or quickset.
As a DryWall repair business i like going into a job and seeing that the homeowner used mesh tape it always fails i then can make some money repairing it with Fibafuse and Proform brand mud
I did new construction for 15 years and then 15 years of nothing but repairs so I’ve seen my share also. But I can guarantee you that 99% of them fail because they use all purpose mud over mesh which is a no-no. I’ve gone back to many many of my jobs and my repairs have never failed because I do them properly with hot mud. many years ago I made the mistake of using all purpose over mesh tape and I got a lot of cracks so I learned the hard way.
Isn't fibafuse just a brand of mesh tape?
I'm a general contractor in Maryland and DC but I also want to learn from the pros who specialize in one trade to give my clients the best results. What is the best tape to use inside of a garage that does not have insulation. Thanks, in advance
I'm putting out classes to teach all kinds of important tips and tricks like this at www.drywallacademy.com, but probably fibafuse and hot mud if you don't want to sign up
When you are doing a large ceiling repair where you put in a square and have the gap between the new sheet and the old with sticky mesh tape do you fill the gaps first, then tape or do you tape then just mud over it?
Thanks.
You can prefill first, but I just force the mud through the mesh into the gap and get it done that way.
I want to know what is the best way to tape butt joints because I've used fibre tapes and used cgc sheet rock Durbabomd 90. And sad to say it cracked in my bathroom. I'm one spot.
Was the panels fastened so that there was no movement? Sometimes the framing or sheet rock isn't fastened properly so the movement will crack just about anything. When this occurs on repairs where I just can't add enough fasteners I'll v groove the crack out between 1/4in-1/2in . Prepack with an elastomeric compound and proceed as usually. Make sure to blow out the crack as the dust & debri can effect adhesion
I’ve had mesh tape crack before when I didn’t pre fill the butt joints, and I used a light weight easy sand joint compound. It was a Lowe’s brand. So I stopped using that brand for one. And two, I now pre fill all joints with hot mud. Then I apply my mesh tape and continue the process as Normal. I really do believe it was the brand and type of joint compound I was using. I remember being impressed with how easy it sanded, it was a soft joint compound once it was dry.
I 100 hundred percent believe that the problem is mostly that if you use any joint compound besides a fast setting joint compound over mesh tape, it is much more likely to crack. So I always suggest using hot mud over mesh tape for the first coat. And pre-filling bigger cracks is a good idea to. Thanks again for the comments. Guy
Never use mesh tape with premixed mud, mesh tape only mean to work with fast setting compond.
i did a repair my wall 2 mouth ago and use mesh tape and all purpose mud and it cracked all ready how do i fix
it now do i remove old tape and mud ....and what hot mud do i need. thank you
Well if you can remove the mesh tape then do it. If it’s too difficult, Your best bet is to retape it right. If using mesh tape any hot mud will work. Try 45 minute, or 90 if doing a lot. This will create a hump you now have to float out about 24” wide like in my ceiling repair videos or my butt joint video
Great vid. Is paper tape ever required by code? I was told that it is in garages in Washington state. Fiber was not allowed.
+Jim black, I honestly haven’t done new construction in nearly 20 years, as I've specialized in repairs and small jobs for a long time now. But anytime I do a larger remodel type job, I always use paper tape. And I am pretty positive that it is required by code in garages due to fire code. I would never attempt to fire tape with anything but paper tape. But here’s the thing, you really need to check with someone local because codes can vary in different geographical areas.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for being part of the Kilted Guy community.
So let me know if you find out anything different. Did you go ahead and use the paper tape?
My pet peeve, at 7:39, you say that it "dries so fast and sets so hard". Setting and drying are 2 different things. Setting compounds will set fast, but still take time to dry out.
You’re right, they are different things. But at the same time, fast setting joint compound does dry a lot faster because of the chemical reaction. I basically showed how much faster it dries in this video - Which Joint Compound do you Need? Fast setting or All Purpose? I'll teach you all about them. ua-cam.com/video/vRKrSm2aHuQ/v-deo.html
Thanks for pointing that out.
New subscriber here! I love how you explain how to do this!
Thanks for subbing!
Fiba Fuse is best for crack repair excellent
I like it.
@thatkiltedguy awesome video! Glad you use mesh! I do to alone with easy sand. It's so much easier
Thanks Peter. I've gone back to many of my jobs years after doing them, and never find any cracking or other issues. I can't even tell where I worked on them, other than by memory. So if used correctly, it works fine and can be a big time saver. Guy
He’s right mesh tape with hot mud can be stronger than regular tape , if you run your mud to thin using paper tape or wipe to much off from behind it , it does not hold very good , if you use paper tape right it very strong to .
We do a lot of build outs that require demo ,new walls and drywall. We do all the work in house .
We have demoed walls that where hot mud and mesh tape and the mesh taped held up good
Thanks for sharing your insight. Guy
what do ya do when Mudd is drying too fast clumping up???
There's not a whole lot you can do except to work faster, limit the airflow to the work area, and cool off the room. Thanks for the comment and I hope that helps.
This tape dispenser can be used to pack product? Can be used as portable Tape Gun Dispenser Packing Sealing Cutter?
No, this is just for drywall mesh tape.
Thank you my friend!
When using paper tape, I've always gave it a coat with my 8" same day. Then 10 and 12" if need be. Walls came out nice. I almost bought that fiber one, glad I didn't.
Did you wait till you put the 8"
Can mesh tape be used with regular all purpose joint compound (not hot mud)?
If so, can i just tape and mud? Or do i have to do the 3-step mud, tape, mud?
And if I can't use mesh tape, what would you recommend? Fiber tape? Paper?
Also, I've been enjoying all your dry wall tutorials! Thanks a bunch!
Kind of a long question, have you considered joining my UA-cam membership?
What about perforated paper?
A lot of paper tape is perforated in varying degrees
WOW. WOW. WOW. I. TRUELY. DID. LEARN SO. MUCH
I SURE. WISH. I HAD.
Started a new finishing job 25 years experience, this new job all paper tape no mesh no Dura Bond on bead it's killing me. Nail on bead plus three ! Gonna crack. Movement equals crack ... old job meshed flats only now gotta wait for paper to dry and shrink slowing me down . Hatin
Great, thanks. Starting to love your videos. Not sharp or flashy, but just informative and educational, and that's why I'm here.
So if you are fixing a large crack, you don't put any plaster in the crack first? You just tape and plaster over it, or are you skipping that to keep the video short? I thought the tape was only for the finish.
Thanks, glad to hear. As for repairing large cracks, I try to prefill those wider than about 1/8", but they often droop so you have to scrape them level once they set, (for hot mud) or sand level for regular drywall mud. You can see how I handle scraping hot mud on my video for repairing larger holes at: ua-cam.com/video/JoWWE7d7UU8/v-deo.html
I plan on releasing a video on how to repair larger cracks specifically. This video was just to show the differences in paper tape vs mesh tape. I also have a video showing how to repair a small hole with mesh tape you might want to check out at: ua-cam.com/video/O4i3dfK0Gl0/v-deo.html
(Note that plaster and drywall are really two different things, though similar, and I don't work on plaster). Hope that helps, and thanks for the question.
Where did you get the mesh tape gun that cuts the tape?
Here's a link to one online- bit.ly/2xv96hd If you have a lot to install, it really speeds things up. Using that link helps our channel with a small commission but costs you nothing more. Hope that helps.
I've heard guys say if you use hot mud with mesh tape it will crack do you know if this is true i've been taping for about 8 to 10 years i have never used mesh tape
Wayne Ermine i've probably installed 5 miles of mesh tape and have used hot mud 98% of the time. I feel it is stronger and more reliable than using regular joint compound. In about 15 years of doing nothing but patch and repair work, I've never had a call back over a crack, or really anything else for that matter.
There's so much speculation out there and misinformation, so I hope that helps clear up one more thing. Thanks for stopping by.
do you regularly use it for taping or just patching holes in drywall
98% of the time I use it for patching small repairs. But I have used it to tape entire rooms with it.
I should also add that in the past year I've had to go back and do more work on jobs I worked on years ago, as the owner just had more projects. On one job I repaired over 100' of cracks as the house was terrible. NOT ONE of my repairs from years ago had re-cracked. I have had some crack, but only when I tried using all purpose in the past, and I learned my lesson. It works very well with hot mud, but terrible with all purpose. And again, I've fixed LOTS of cracked joints that had paper tape on them, so they all can crack with movement, etc, but done right, they are all good products.
looking forward to a mud comparison.
Do you do your inside corners with mesh tape? I’m doing a job this week and I was going to just use the mesh for the inside corners but i bought paper tape Incase I change my mind.
You have awesome vids btw.
I have used mesh tape on inside angles but, rarely as I don’t think it’s as strong that way. I would suggest using the paper tape or even the fibafuse. Thanks for your questions and all your previous comments.
I find paper tape is best for corners. I use mesh everywhere else. Paper tape is easier to fold in corners than mesh.
Mesh joints are cracked joints
Great video.
Your videos are great! So very informative! Thank you so much!
Hi Manifestcovarience, thank you for commenting! I truly appreciate you taking the time to say hi, thanks or ask questions. I hope to hear from you again! 😎🦶🏼
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Excellent thanks
I want glass fiber pepar 3 micron detail
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Cool beans....was wondering how that was done! Thanks! (y)
Glad you found it helpful. I'll be releasing a more in depth drywall taping video soon showing how to tape with mesh tape, paper tape, and a new product I really like called Fibafuse. Wait until you see that stuff, it's truly Cool Beans. And thanks for stopping by!
Thank you for your nice details video
+chanhduc phung , thank you for your comment and for stopping by. I appreciate all of my viewers.
This guy is a master taper thats phenomenal
Thanks Thomas & welcome to the Kilted Guy community.
I wet done paper tape before embedding bonds better
I know some novices who do that, but never seen a pro wet tape down in 35 years of doing drywall, but it certainly won't hurt.
Great vid
Damn, now Im confused; I could swear I have seen a bunch of these videos where guys will lay the mud down first, then put the paper in, then they will lay some more mud on top in the same day time. Yet in the video you say after putting the paper tape, to wait till the next day to mud over.
Hello, taping it and coating it at the same time won’t actually hurt anything, but it will shrink so much that you will gain very little. I’ve tried it at times and you still have to coat it the same number of times so it may not hurt, but it’s kind of a waste of time.
Also, you should never put mud on really thick because much over 1/8 of an inch and it doesn’t dry properly. Plus it will take days to dry when it’s that thick.
If you use fast setting joint compound, then you can coat multiple times because it chemically dries and doesn’t shrink much at all. I’m actually going to be doing a video real soon about how thick you can put mud on, and the advantages of hot mud so be sure and subscribe and you will see that comparison.
Thanks, Guy
I've just found it to be mostly a waste of time to coat it immediately after taping it. Each coat needs to dry, and it will shrink each time. Coating right after taping, well it WILL shrink, and won't look very good at all after it dries, so it still requires 2 more coats. So it's time wasted imho. Guess I need to do a video demonstrating this some time.
Plus, here's what USG says -
"Should I wait for the taping coat to dry before applying the next coat?
Yes. Each coat must be completely dry before applying the next."
I believe the manufacturer knows a thing or two about their product, so over the years I've actually read boxes and bags of products to see what they say. Like using ONLY setting mud over mesh tape, I learned that by reading, and from making the mistake of not doing it that way, once...
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Using paper tape, I will embed it in hot mud then run a second coat on it the same day. I really, I can finish the third coat with regular mud the same day.
I am doing some now and realize how long it had been since I have done any mudding.
I am very slow!
The mud I have bought seems harder to work with than I remember. Some very hard to sand.
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Awesome video man!
I'll check it out on amazon.thank you.
The problem with the mesh tape with any butt joints is when you put the tape first and then mud it you will not able to fill the joints properly ,By apply mud first and then the tape u able to seem the butt joints properly
is mesh tape recommeded for inside corners?
Terrance, you can use it for inside angles, but it's a bit difficult. I do it all the time, but if you're not a journeyman what happens is it's kind of hard to get it square into the corner. And if you don't, it's really easy to cut through the mesh when coating it, rendering it ineffective. If you get it nice and square in the angle, and are careful, you can do it. Otherwise, stick with paper tape. I'll be releasing a video soon showing how to tape inside angles with mesh tape. Thanks for the question and let me know how it goes.
That Kilted Guy How Toi Videos
That Kilted Guy How To Videos taping inside corners with mesh tape
NOO
They have scientifically proven that paper tape is stronger than mesh. However that is the same scientific tests as the Auto Industry claims about their MPG, based on perfect weather conditions, ideal road surfaces and a professional driver behind the wheel. I've used both types of tape interchangeably with the exact same results. I generally use paper in the corners (as it is pre-creased) which makes it easier to install and mesh on the other joints. In the UK we coat the entire wall and all we use is mesh tape to reinforce the joints. I've even put the paper on "backwards", for the purists out there, without issue. Now some go with the method that if it is "wall to wall or floor to ceiling then use paper", again each to their own.
If your house or wall is cracking then you have a bigger problem that which drywall tape you are using. Could be a prefilling, compound or even a structural issue.
Agreed. The MOST common reason I see for failures of mesh tape, and I've seen many, is the use of regular joint compound under mesh tape. Even happened to me once when I tried it, knowing I shouldn't. I can tell when I peel the tape off if it's hot mud or not. IF hot mud cracks then either you have an issue repairing won't fix, or it was done wrong. You also have to re-screw off the cracked drywall to strengthen it. I've sub contractors on here tell me they taped a repair and it re-cracked. I ask about the screws and often they failed to do that, or they used All purpose. I've had like 1 callback in 15 years of doing nothing but drywall repairs, so I know mesh tape is fine, if you use it right.
BAD NEWS- Hey everyone, as of 9/21/20 we have some bad news. We are suddenly being kicked out of our rental due to the sale of the home, (we were planning on buying next summer) and I'm having some tough medical issues such as Prostate Cancer, Permanent Vertigo, Restless Legs, Neuropathy (nerve damage) etc. So we put out a video explaining this and many of you asked us to create a Gofundme so you could say thanks for all the help I've given you on these videos, my comments, etc. I really hesitated, as I hate asking for donations, but then you said it wasn't a donation, it was a way for you to say thanks. So if you want to know more here's the video explaining what all has been going on (moved 9 times in 12 years, my wifes 3 knee replacements, and much more). ua-cam.com/video/aRMwK_LTQQs/v-deo.html
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Ok I have plenty of experience. I ran commercial sites, for a drywall/ framing company, like 50,000 sqft office buildings. I hated mesh tape. In corners, if your knife hit the mesh on other side it screwed up the work. If it gets sanded to much the threads pop. Try to cover that. Paper tape allows you to use less mud. Yes I would add another 10in coat first day. More mud is not better. He's doing one room, try a 150ft hallway. Mesh tape with more mud causes waves you can see. Butts will never be in the plane of the wall, so the less mud a nice feather and it's not really noticable. No mesh
I only use mesh on repairs, and never in angles, and always with hot mud. I've tried mesh on larger jobs and don't care for it, but had great results as I saw the owners a few years later and they were still happy. Technique, skill and experience matter though. Not all drywallers can use it right.
Amazing video thumps up 👍
Thank you 👍
This guy says mesh tape is better, another guy says paper tape is better in every way, I don't know what to think. I already bought mesh tape so I guess I'm going to try that. Hope it works
I say they all work great. But novices often screwup paper tape so mesh tape could be easier although it requires using fast setting mud which can be a challenge for novices. If you want the simplest, use fibafuse and all purpose mud.
Fill voids with setting spakle……tape over ….then spakle again with setting spakle….finish with premix ….remember feather out from joint …….less is better when spakling …..practice …..be neat……
great video, thanks a lot!
Your're welcome, and thanks for stopping by. Be sure to subscribe and click the bell icon. Thanks, Guy
as a contractor, I find paper tape is better for install/new drywall, and mesh for patches, and repairs. Im actually say I "hate" mesh tape, but thats just cause so many people use it wrong.
I'm with you on all points. I like paper tape for new construction, remodels, etc, and mesh for repairs, but you do have to use it right. The advantage for amateurs is you can just stick the mesh tape on and never get a blister, but with paper tape, non pros almost always get blisters, bad wrinkles, etc. Thanks for the comment, Guy
Mesh will crack if you don't use hot mud for at least the first coat on it.
Don't use mesh tape with regular mud
I try to always point that out, but it can't be said enough, so thanks for pointing that out.
dangit
You are truly a master! AWESOME!
Thank you! I am a perfectionist and glad it shows.
Hi!
Hello. Thanks for commenting!
You are GOOD
Thank you!
Thought I was seeing things but your wearing a kilt dude.
And, that's why I call my channel, That Kilted Guy
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY He probably thought you got deaded
I have seen more issues with paper tape over the years mostly delamination…
Great videos. Thanks for waiting until after the video to bend over and pick up that tape!
Lol, ok then
You show embedding mesh tape into wet durabond in your video about repairing plaster cracks (starting at 12 minutes in). This seems to contradict your advice in this video which I intend to follow instead. Other good videos by the Toronto guys explaining plaster crack repair also skip the messy embedding process.
It’s overkill but I sometimes work that way
I think, the name of this video, it should be, WHEN PAPER, AND WHEN MESH.
Christ can I watch 5 minutes of the video without a damn ad! You Tube is getting greedy, 80 Billion isnt enough
Gary, I looked and youtube had auto ads placed, and too many. I narrowed it down to one in the middle. Thanks for pointing that out.
Dam good video
Glad you enjoyed
thanks yeah need air conditioner on and close doors and maybe work earlier hours
I wouldn't go on the job site dressed like that, someone might get an upskirt shot
Lol, everyones a comedian. Be sure and subscribe and you can find more videos to laugh at, lol.
hello guy
Hello. How are you doing?
This dude is gunna croak on camera one of of these times
Ribbit
Who needs a zipper anyways.
😇💪🏽😇💯💯💯💯
I disagree.... fiberglass tape will crack with out a bedding coat. gotta use a bedding coat for corners. either tape will work for flat or corners but it must be bedded in both cases. the advantage mesh tape is that if you have a helper they can cut and stick the mesh while you are mudding without a bazooka. Saves a huge amount of time if you don't have a bazooka, but you must bed mesh tape just like paper tape. sure it will last for a year or so with out bedding but eventually will cause problems, especial in a humid environment like a bath or laundry. I've been doing mudding for 40 years and can always tell when someone fails to properly bed tape, paper or mesh....put it to bed and it will sleep for a long time.... I like the hot mud too....Knife angle and float is just experience.
In the past year I've had to go back and do more work on several jobs I worked on years ago, as the owner just had more projects. On one job I repaired over 100' of cracks over 1 1/2 years earlier as the house was terrible. NOT ONE of my repairs from years ago had re-cracked. I have had some crack, but only when I tried using all purpose in the past, and I learned my lesson. It works very well with hot mud, but terrible with all purpose. And again, I've fixed LOTS of cracked joints that had paper tape on them, so they all can crack with movement, etc, but done right, they are all good products.
The mesh tap is not for the beginners.
+Thomas Reed , I would have to disagree. One advantage mesh tape has for beginners is there is no chance of a blister, where they either didn't put enough mud on to bed it properly, or they wiped it too tight forcing too much out.
Both paper tape and mesh tape still require the same amount of skill to coat them. So I would recommend mesh tape for beginners actually.
What reason what were you thinking of?
Mesh Tape Is The Best and it Is 15 Dollars and Paper Tape is 2 Dollar,
That Is Why These People Uses All Of Them Paper Tape Cheap Busters.
You must use "hot" mud with mesh tape or it will crack
Hot mud is the best for sure. I have experimented with using regular all purpose and 99% of it did not crack, but there were several areas that did, so I agree that it's best to use hot mud, which is technically known as Fast setting joint compound. At 5 minutes into the video, I do mention this and show a picture of some hot mud. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for stopping by and checking out our channel.
steve beuchert wrong, I've done a tons of jobs with mesh without hotmud and never had any issues anywhere it's about the application not the type of mud
Why r u wearing a skirt
Because I can’t do these videos naked, lol.
Or, it’s not a skirt...
Those earrings are cute. Probably dresses up as a lady-boy at night 😂
Already wearing a dress n shit lmao
Hmm, channel name is That Kilted Guy, so you're obviously not smart enough to know what a kilt is. So pull you're diaper up son, and crawl back to your mommas bossum and come back when you grow up, lol. You're insults don't work on a real man, sorry kid. You'll grow up one day, maybe.
Quit messaging me for a date dude. I'm not into that stuff. I got your 10 emails telling me what you want to do to me, and I'm not into it. Sorry, I know you said that was just between you and me, but man, you're hard up.
Get that banjo tf outta here pawpaw! Get a Zooka broke boy!
You so clever. I so impressed, I think I go tell everyone how I have such an intellect putting me down on my channel, with 10,000 subscribers, and you have, oh wait, 5, oops, my bad. You're words tell everything about your lack of intellect. I'll be retired and making 50k a month by the end of the year, doing nothing but helping the other hard working good people learn these skills, and you? Oh yeah, you'll still be trash talking trying to build yourself up, lmnao. Keep replying with more good humor, as each comment builds my channel and makes me more successful. Thanks kid.
only a idiot mess tapes inside corners. big no no
Explain why it’s a no no.
andy moser What are you talking about
What a joke!
No but here’s one since you requested it. Did you hear the one about the UA-cam troll who walked into a channel and made rude comments? He didn’t mesh well with the intellectual guy with 30 years of experience teaching the video. 😂 😂 😂
Ok, did you hear the one about the troll who walked into a youtube comment section? He was never seen again. bye