Pocket Square Details, Fabrics & Handrolled Edges vs. Machine Hem
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- Опубліковано 9 чер 2019
- Pocket Squares 101: gentl.mn/hand-rolled-vs-machi...
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SHOP THE VIDEO:
1. Orange Exotic Caribbean Boutonniere - gentl.mn/2WbZ41G
2. Ivory Silk-Wool Pocket Square with Hunting Motifs - gentl.mn/2HDlfVt
Something to keep in mind though is that not all pocket squares are created equal; there are definitely squares out there that are made from lower quality materials and with lower qualities of construction and the discerning gentlemen will be able to notice these details easily.
What factors should you be looking for in choosing a quality pocket square then?
Well, there are basically three big ones; the material used, the size of the pocket square, and how the edges are stitched. Before we get into the fine details of edges though, let's first go over the pocket square construction materials.
We will start with silk which is a versatile classic. Silk squares are often going to be particularly compact in your pocket and they're good for unstructured folds like a puff fold, for example. Linen pocket squares are also extremely versatile. Often, they'll have more structured edges but soft and supple centers so they'll be easy to fold. Woollen pocket squares are truly for the connoisseur.They can look particularly smart when worn with other heavier and warmer fabrics in the cold months. Cotton pocket squares are available as well but overall, they're a less refined option. Finally here, polyester pocket squares are inexpensive, lightweight, and durable but they are best avoided. They often look overly shiny in their finish and are almost always machine stitched. Additionally, you can also find blends of multiple types of fabrics that will carry the characteristics of each type.
Pocket Square Edges:
Also called a rolled edge, rolled hem, or rollover stitch, the most refined pocket squares are going to feature edges that are hand rolled into a tight and tubular edge and then also stitched by hand. Typically, you'll see about five to six stitches to an inch or a stitch every half centimeter or so though this can vary depending on the
square. As you might imagine, squares with a higher stitch density are going to take longer to produce than those with a lower stitch density and the lower the number of overall stitches, the looser the edge is going to be. Given that it is handmade, the stitch will be slightly uneven but this is a plus, it gives it a unique and artisanal finish. Hand stitching can also be done in a variety of styles, of course, including a straight stitch or an X stitch as well as many others. In the particular example of X stitching, you won't see it very often as even X stitching done by hand is relatively difficult to achieve and takes quite a bit of time. At Fort Belvedere, however, we pride ourselves in the fact that you can find some of the highest quality hand X stitched pocket squares on the market
today. One additional distinction to note with hand rolled pocket square edges, if the edge is rolled on to the front side of a pocket square, which is to say, the sign that has the pattern printed or woven onto it, this is known as a French rolled hem. However, if the edges rolled to the back side of the pocket square, this is known as an Italian rolled hem. Whichever style of rolling you prefer is simply a personal preference and one isn't any more formal than the other. In the case of the French rolled hem, it's a particular style of many scarves and other garments made by Hermes. And it's worth noting that the precision and craftsmanship involved in a hand rolled
pocket square edge will probably mean that the resulting square has a bit of a higher price tag but as with most things, you get what you pay for.
Meanwhile, mass-market retailers often aren't going to want to pay for the additional labor that goes into hand stitching pocket square edges. As such, most mass-produced squares that you'll find on the market today have machine stitched edges. There are a number of different types of machined edges as well. Simplest of these is the parallel edge which is flat and simple with only one line of stitching and doesn't contain much character or dimension in the pocket square's edge and while the so called Z shaped edge features a bit more character and interest in its stitching, the edges of the fabric itself are still going to be relatively flat and lifeless. - Навчання та стиль
So Preston does videos on Monday?
It's generally the case (at the time of this video's original post date) that my videos will post on Mondays, and that Raphael's will post on Fridays. There will always be occasional exceptions, of course, and we're planning new and exciting things all the time--so stay tuned! :)
- Preston
I gave my friend a white cotton pocket square for his wedding. He never wears a pocket square ordinarily. During the vows he used the pocket square as a prop gag and wiped his brow with it. Then he carelessly popped it back into his pocket and it looked perfect. I was happy to see the pocket square perform so well!
I can’t believe I sat through a pocket square UA-cam video....Well done and kudos! Thank you for sharing and enlightening me on this topic.
This is a long video. I bet Raphael broke a sweat while playing the smooth jazz in the background of this one. 🥁🎼🎷
Cheers Preston for some great tips & great vids 🤘🏼😎👍🏼
Really useful video. Quick question: what is your favourite knot for a tie? Thanks
Very talented. Thank you for such an instructional video.
Great Video ♥ Mr.Preston.
Thanks for this video! It would be helpful to teach customers of my bespoke studio :) Your pocket squares are great! If you will someday be searching for person, who knows how to roll edges, please drop me a line. It would be a pleasure to make pocket squares for you guys!
I'm trying to find this information and to no avail but perhaps you know. Must you do. Rolled hem first before x stitching or is it just the x? I believe he answered it in the video claiming all ft belvedere pocket squares were hand rolled. Alas even that is not definitive because to him and x stitch could very well be a hand rolled edg
The best pocket square breakdown I ever seen. Please do the same for bow ties, as it's not frequently discussed in the Internet. Many cotton and linen bow ties can be found at the market, but are they appropriate to wear?
Nice video Preston. I enjoy pocket squares in my jackets and my preference is the presidential fold.
Fascinating - I wear pocket squares with my suits and blazers; most of mine are imports from China, in very strong colours; but so many of them are too small to fit a top pocket properly. If I can import from Fort Belvedere, I shall.
I think they ship worldwide. Shipping and extra taxes makes it extra expensive though.
A tip I got from a Savile Row tailor to stop a small pocket square dropping inside the pocket. Fold some tissues and pop them into the bottom of the pocket, before inserting the square. Works a treat.
@Gentleman's Gazette , I was thinking about pants the other day and realized that I don't know what the praxis is for belt-loops, side-adjusters,suspender-buttons, button(s? one or two?)-fly or hook closure. Are there any guidelines for when to use what, and in what combination?
Could you use a bandana for a pocket square to be less formal?
1:24... whoa! Throwing shade at an MI attendee. :)
Who was it
@@michaelbell3952 I don't know... but his comment just reinforces why I'd be petrified to go to that conference as tempting as it is to learn stuff... cuz everybody is probably so catty and scrutinizing everything you're wearing.
I'm sure the guy with the sewn-in pocket square was just a guy trying to look better and learn from peers, and he didn't know. Or maybe didn't have the money to afford something fancy. I actually feel bad for the guy being dissed in this video. Ultimately, it gives this video a vibe of pretentiousness... but maybe that's what they're going for here. It's like "how could someone not be as cool and smart and knowledgable as us??"
@@TheFujiwuji If you think THAT'S "catty" just wait until you meet women
Good in details
Hello Sir. How about using satin fabric as a pocket square?
Does fort Belvedere deliver in Europe ?
I'm looking to buy some pocket squares, I love the look of them. The thing is that I'm kind of broke, I can't afford anything close to Fort Belvedere prices. Can someone recomend a brand to get me started?
When will you please, produce another video on Navy Blazer?
I wonder: from where does the pocket square comes from? Also: from which point in time?
Sum good stuff here thanks for the advice 👌🏾👌🏾
Hi i have a darkblue suit with a white shirt with flowers im thinking about a pink pocket square?
Magnets…….material really doesn’t matter for holding folds when using them 👍🏾
Doesn’t damage. Doesn’t pucker. Doesn’t slip. Sizing also becomes much less of an issue…
Surprised you didn’t mention them 🤔
Thoughts?
so greatful ! like
How could i send you fan mail or a drawing?
Are linen pocket squares more, less, or the same formality as silk ones?
Same,even more formal because yoi can wear them with tails and cutaways so more formal might be right(if in white of course)dont know other colours maybe at the same formality as the silk
Nice jacket.
Y'all lit
Can you make a video on what each pocket on a suit is for?
Keys
Great video! I have a video suggestion! Since there is a video on how a watch works, I believe that there should be a video on how a camera works. This video could be focused on how a vintage camera works such as a Kodak six 16, or a modern camera. Anyway, awesome video on pocket squares! Keep up the good work!
Well that's why photography channels exist 🤔 but Sven may be the one who does it because he knows.
djfishwigy that’s why I mentioned it.
Monstervision
I like these details on folding pocket squares quite often to think my way in my knowledge. I learn a new keys ways to fold a pocket square.👔◼️❤️😊👍✔️
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Can't help it, but I'dike to see him make a guide on what cars a gentleman might drive. Cause I can hardly imagine him folding into a 2004 Miata with tuned suspension, black wheelcaps and a V6 engine swap 😂
Saltiest Salt if that’s the actual Miata you drive you have, that’s sick. I just got an NA and couldn’t be happier about it
@@spencercline3476 it is :D and yes, miatas are just happy little cars
i always thought they were handkerchiefs. Im so classless :)
In all honesty and with all due respect, I can understand the intention of pointing out that a speaker at Menfluential had a cheap pocket square, but it seems a little arrogant. As it is somewhat uncommon nowadays, I give credit to men who wear pocket squares, even if it may be cheap.
He wasn't wearing a pocket square though. That's the point.
It's a bit late for a comment, but I understand where Preston was coming here from. The thing is, if this were a man on the streets, I wouldn't care. But these are major, wealthy social media presences, and thus I feel they should be held to higher standards, especially for a major online event and not an office job. Most men don't wear pocket squares, but these aren't most men, and major politicians would (and should) be similarly criticized.
If you know how to fold it, any sloppy stitching will be hidden on a pocket square and you'll still be gentleman. I make my own from linen and prefer solid colours. Ain't no way I'm paying $20 for that little bit of flair.
Are pocket squares always made out of woven fabrics?
To me it is not obvious why woven cloth should be superior to lets say knitted material, since woven garments have the necessity to stitch the edges because the square is cut from a larger piece of fabric while knitted pocket squares could be made in a way that the method of creating the fabric creates the edge itself and thus making it unnecessary to even do anything with the edge.
Being a total dilettante it is just a matter of my personal interest.
Sorry by the way for my bad english. I am a native german speaker and have difficulties expressing my thoughts in english.
Greatings from Germany
Luca
Although no names were called, I don't think it was very gentlemanly to mention the sewed on pocket square as "cheap".
I agree
It is cheap though. Are you saying gentlemen lie?
@@SundownTE No but there is no need to out someone in public like that even if it was somewhat anonymous.
@@SundownTE this has nothing to do with lying...
@@christopherlagasse5363 yes it does. If it's cheap call it cheap.
Lol I watched this and disagree with the machine views. A machine is just fine
Great video, but it isn't gentlemanly to point the finger at other people's poor attire choices, even if you aren't naming names and regardless of who they are.
What makes you the arbiter of what's gentlemanly and what isn't? 🤔
@@SundownTE The same thing that makes you the arbiter of what I can or can't say ;)
🙄
It's gone too far, hahaha !
mmm pocket squares have no gender :) nice video though
It's a glorified hanky... I love this channel but pocket squares imo are just not that big of a deal. Use one, sure, but fussing over the materials and stuff is just superfluous. No offense to those who really care about them. I am just never going to understand it.
I get it because I don't like wearing man made fibers. I love beautiful, handmade things as well in wool, silk and cotton.
That's what separates a dabbler from an aficionado; a dabbler thinks only the big things matter, an aficionado knows that big AND small things matter
I agree wholeheartedly, but of course this is personal preference accessory more than anything else and I everyone has their opinion and tastes with respect to the preference and use of pocket squares.