I still wear them, in fact, I never stopped wearing them. I could never understand why anyone stopped. I wear what I like, not what other people like, and it has always worked well for me. Though, to the points in the video, I am a giant nerd, only wear pleats in the workplace, and am super in shape so don't have a problem with how they fit.
Same here. All of my suites have pleated pants. But I also grew up in the 80's and I still think those suites look good, lol. I'm definitely not a fan of flat front pants.
@@RoseNegrete Couldn’t agree more. Wide legged, pleated pants are so very comfortable in warmer weather. I love my light tan Canali trouser’s wide legs. The summer weight wool whafts against my legs and feels so wonderfully cool.
I firmly feel that pleated trousers are outstanding & those who believe in class can easily follow what l mean...The men in early 40s & 50s had a much better dress sense than we have today. They always looked adorable....
I wore pleated pants for years, but then I stopped wearing them in the early 1990’s for two reasons: 1) the flat front, non-pleated pants looked nice, trim and tailored and 2) because the pleated pants (especially if the pleats faced inwards) tended to balloon open and make me look larger/heavier than I was. And then there’s the pleated corduroy slacks … OMG … talk about ballooning and making someone look large! 😳
I have slimmer fitting trousers with double inward facing pleats- they just look way nicer than normal trousers. Slim cut will look Bad if youre just a little but overweight (imho), a more roomy fit Not so much
I’ve worn both flat front and pleated pants and what I REALLY miss are tailored suits with two pants. Once was all suits came with an extra set of pants.
I have always preferred pleated trousers and wear them almost exclusively over a flat front. Double pleats of course either forward or backwards depending on what I’m pairing them with. Many sartorial focused brands have pleated trousers in their line ups. My favorite trousers that I’ve worn most often here recently are ghurka trousers I purchased from Scavini. I will say that it’s a lot harder to find good pleated trousers. Most I own I’ve often had to resort to custom just because of my body, getting the right fit, which is harder to nail when involving pleats. My thighs and rear are bigger so pleats naturally help me with comfort as well as style.
I just order a pair of double-inward facing pleated pants from my tailor and he was also talking about how hard pleated pants are to find nowadays. He seemed pretty happy that I ordered some.
I love and always wear pleated high waisted mens trousers but the problem is it's hard to get a tailor who is perfect for the job. Pleated and perfectly tailored high waist trousers provide a vintage gentleman look.
Finding a good tailor or alteration store is an huge challenge. If you can't find a good tailor, you also have to know and convey to the alreration store how you like the pants to be hemmed and where the break is for the fit in how you wear your pants with the normal shoes you wear them with. Otherwise the challenge is real. I've had to explain many times finding a decent alteration store what kind of cuff i want and size as well where i want the trousers hemmed in measurement in the fitting with the break of the pants. So if you can't find a good tailor, you also have to be knowledgeable to advise them of the fit you want. Many these places have females and they don't know how classic mens trousers are to be fitted.
This video completely misses the point that modern fabrics are stretchier. Thus the original purpose of pleats, to make clothes roomier, is being achieved in a completely different way. We are more likely to see men move to lightweight knitted stretch fabrics, than heavier pleated ones. Until improvements in artificial intelligence and automation allow a return to bespoke tailoring, a significant move to well cut pleated clothes is unlikely!
Not necessarily, I have suits made by a tailor in HK 15 years ago during my travels. Although not close to being saville row, I didn't have to pay $3k or more for each suit either. And I had my suits tailored with an extra pair of trousers. I'm a bit ole school, so they were all outward pleated and cuffed.
I think they're elegant and classy. Although I will say I like a tapered look more than the "skinny" look as that fits my shape best. They may be out of fashion but that doesn't mean they can't be stylish. I recently ordered a custom pair of high waisted pleated wool trousers and can't wait to incorporate them into everyday wear!
In Argentina we got our 'cowboys' called Gauchos, still to this day is common to see them wear the old fashioned "bombachas" a very confortable pair of trousers that look pretty much like these 3:52 pair of 1811 pants, clearly they come from that period but they are still very very popular in my country as you go to the Pampas region. not only gauchos wear them, in the past decades they had a revival and its easy to find not so old people wearing our national pleated pants. you can google 'bombacha de campo' or 'bombacha de gaucho' .
While everything you said is true and accurate, the difference is that the gaucho wore and still wears bombachas as work pants whereas the pleated pants were for fashion. The bombachas were easy to make and designed to wear loose to have a lot of room due the physical labor the gauchos used to do. I still own a double-breasted, charcoal color, Christian Dior suit with pleated pants. I wore it last week with a white shirt and a light blue, solid tie. After a three-hour dinner with the president of a company, we left the restaurant and after we shook hands at the parking lot, he goes.......next time don't wear that suit....you look too good in it!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Can't help but feel that a lot was missed here. First and foremost, pleated trousers are part of a draped and tailored look. They require more attention to detail such as steam pressing or poping into a trouser press to keep them looking sharp. And sorry chaps but pleated trousers have to be the right length such that they integrate into the lines of your shoes and waist and not stop short. Pleated trousers need high rise fronts to work and todays trend is the opposite of this. They must be in fabric that takes a crease and keeps it. Most of the pleated trousers worn in this show looked as though they came out of a bag and not off a hanger. Today's looks are not draped so much as forced into shape by the shape of your body. Tight suits and shirts might look sexy to some but on an older man are simply uncomfortable and fail to hide the truths that come with maturity. And tight non stretch fabrics as found in formal shirts and suits are uncomfortable as they pull and gape. We seem to be heading into ridiculous territory now as mainstream UK gents clothes makers like Charles Tyrwhitt and Brooke Taverner sell clothes that simply look too small, too short and too tight to be comfortable. So my sense of where things will go next is back to draped clothing with pleats because tightness has got as tight as it can go. And from what I have seen, the Savill Row and other quality London tailors seem to agree.
Sir, you either did not watch the video or you missed or completely phased out when a number of your points were mentioned either directly or obliquely.
I have always worn pleats as it has an amazingly classy and retro classic look...However I also wear flat fronts for a cleaner look...if I'm wearing a sweater or overcoat that has a vintage look then definitely pleats are my choice...however if my ensemble for that day is more up to date then I go with the flat fronts...as you can see it all depends on the total ensemble for me...I change up accordingly...
I agree with you on this. The way i answer this is by saying that in my personal wardrobe I have quite a range of quality trousers. I'd say at least 70% of them are pleated trousers and of different basic shade in colors. The rest are flat front of the same trouser colors as much as possible. Thus If the dress style demands it i have the versality to go with a pleated trousers and which are all often of a high quality fabric weave or a flat front pants of similar or lesser quality blend. So year i can change things up accordingly with the options. I think it can be difficult to convey to others to have options with your clothing and how to do so.
I love my pleated trousers. I never stopped wearig them. I love the classical style pleated trousers and the quality drape of the pants. You stand out in an elegant way in style and visual interest in your pants much more than many around you. Good quality trousers are the anchor in my wardrobe and in a range of the basic colors. Most of my trousers are pleated and wool or a HQ blend fabric, properly hemmed and cuffed. Take personal attention and care with my trousers as they were all custom ordered online and then taken to a tailor. It's very hard to shop at a local store for the quality and trousers i want. Good menswear stores are very hard to find and with the range of sizes you personally need.
I hate that the mass market for menswear has eliminated pleated trousers from their stock. Some tailored shops offer a single pleat but this just looks half-assed and indecisive. I may have to go custom made if I really want to sport pleated trousers.
I mean, pleats only came to be because of fashion. And the reason why it's no longer really around is because that style went away and the fashion is more tight fitted and slim fit. So your hate for the mass market eliminating pleats is unwarranted as it is the mass market that brought it in the first place when it was in style
I never stopped wearing pleated pants; they have always been my preference for professional business wear. However, I am in my mid-50s and have old-school thinking and style. This video was a well-assembled informative review.
Hm- I am going to disagree a little on one point. Lightweight summer trousers can also have pleats. I don't think the two are mutually exclusive. The bad drape of modern pleats is more because the rise is too short. Those trousers between the 30s and 50s were up at the bellybutton or higher. When the trousers are up at the waist the pleats drape properly-when they are hanging off the hips they open in an unsightly way. I say this as someone who loves heavy fabrics.
You are correct on this observation. I personally wear a lot of quality trousers where many are pleated, yet some in the option of a flat front just for a different look with the same pants color. But all my pants i wear fit me and hang just below my belley button by 1-2 inches and fit and wear well. If they were just hanging off my hips then the fit would look terrible.
as someone who sews I agree with this and I think it's more the quality of the fabrics and also fit. Even in fabric stores there is a huge difference in how tight the weave is based on price and the tightness of the weave has a huge effect on how well it will crease.
One reason why pleats have gone out of fashion is that men have gotten significantly fatter than the early 1980s when the style became popular. When a man has a slim flat belly, pleats can look flattering, but when a man has a typical rounded protruding belly (as is so common these days) and then below his waist the pleats bulge out again, then the look is not so attractive. The double budge effect just draws attention to the fact that he is not slim.
The emphasis on skinny and slim styles in modern day says a lot about how un prosperous we are at textile and clothing industry, and how bad it is even though bolts of polyester demons are being woven every single second that make abundance of fabric, stills me with a disappointment in modern day clothing industry.
BINGO - you got it. its about saving fabric and saving production steps and in today's world of fast fashion prices - quite literally EVERY PENNY COUNTS I have a friend in the textile industry, one of the problems they have is the garment designer will provide the pattern cutting layout and the manufacturer will alter it to be more efficient in the fabric use, but to do so they will have to cut pieces slightly "off-grain" this is why the legs of your jeans twist, or your T Shirts/shirts miss shape after a few washings. But they can save 5cm of fabric - times that by 1,000,000 garments a year its 50,000m of fabric at $5 a metre - its 1/4 million $ pure profit. Turnups / cuffs on trousers use a HUGE amount of fabric, so they are no longer fashionable. Pleats, they are out. skinny legs - In. Anything that reduces the fabric in a garment is IN big style.
It's not really just profit , as much is is not communicating, fitting and matching art to need. Watch Rylance in "The Outfit". Excess profit is just value mismatch. If you have it done by algorithm/spreadsheet as opposed to face to face, it's what you get. It becomes easier to push an abstraction, a. form , on someone than match solutions to what and who they are. Choice needs to be in balance with decision. We have plenty of choices in fabric, just not good help in deciding how to fit them to the task at hand.
@@piccalillipit9211 you don't got it. Adding two or three inches of width doesn't cost them more. It takes up more space width-wise, which is almost always cut away as waste anyways. You simply cannot use excess width to squeeze in more pieces. They don't mind adding a few more inches. 50+ years family experience in tailoring and garment production.
@@substygram4357 - Its only cut off if it can be accommodated in the width otherwise the stagger for the legs has to be increased and that uses up more linear meterage. OK dude not going to argue. Leve it at that.
I never stopped wearing them. I hope they do not make a comeback yet, as I am able to purchase high quality second hand examples for next to nothing. Under my suit coat, they are unseen. I am happily and frugally well dressed.
I still wear them, men in India still wear them a lot, but one sad thing, the new generation do not even care to know about it. oh, sadly my pleats are not good as the pleats on good ones. Mine are shallow, good point, I will make my next 2 pairs of them deeper.
Like most aspects of classic men's fashion, pleated pants can most certainly be a part of any man's wardrobe but require attention to detail and an honest approach to one's body type so the right choices are made in pleat type, fabric, and cuff width and break. As exemplified by that parachute Preston is wearing, modern designs often get it wrong, particularly in fabric weight. Maybe a heavier-set gentleman would wear those trousers better, but doubtful.
@@eighteenin78 Yes, it does. Same as my husband. It's really hard to find proper clothing for 6'1" man who weighs 150 lbs. and has a 36-inch sleeve length. :(
1 of my 5 suits has pleaded pants. It was my first suit I purchased 7 years ago. Don't mind the pleats since it's a unique look along with the fact that it's a midnight blue suit and pleats are subtle. Being 6' 0 and athletic helps too.
I'm 64, so I've seen pleats, and flats come back around, and to be honest I'm currently a fan of both seeing that I love the Vintage, and the Retro styles with the exception of Skinny. I love them because they both remind men of when men dressed up, plus at my age sweats just doesn't look mature, also the right material will always be comfortable.
I took up pleated plants simultaneously with putting down jeans (forever.) That was in the later 1970s when Patagonia first started making climbing pants. My first pair of pleated pants were canvas, from Patagonia. I continued to buy them until that style went out of production, then switched to regular chinos (khakis) that were pleated. In the late 1990s I switched to BDUs, with some detours into "tactical" pants, and have never looked back. The colors are all there, the seasonal fabric choices are more numerous, and production is stable. Not exactly couture, but I have a light gray pair and you can dress them up. I can, I'm a scientist... and I'm addicted to the cargo pockets.
I have had a couple of lovely pleated trousers (girl here.) One made for women and one made for men. (The designer men's pair was superior in every way.) The fabric is key.
I love wearing pleated pants, ( most of my pants are). However, if someone is looking for single pleat pants. Hart Schaffner & Marx make an awesome fitting pair. Also Oxxford pleated pants.
I spent my teenage years during the eighties, it was all about pleated trousers and shoulder pads. I was fairly thin and that style of fashion was brilliant, bring it back please
I will never stop wearing them. Those are the most comfortable type. They do make me look older for my age(I am 21!). But I don't care what others think. I want my comfort and I insist my tailor to always make pants with pleats.
I know, right? You're lucky. My tailor REFUSES to make me pleated pants these days. As he says, " Sir, you certainly will be thanking me profusely even now and in the future because you will certainly look as though you are stuck in the 80's if I continue to make you pleated trousers." What a character.....
I went back to pleated pants couple of years back. Even my tailor asked me several time whether I'm sure that I want them. But the shear comfort of wearing them surpassed anything.
I recently went thrifting and found a pair of trousers with side adjusters, they fit really well but had they been pleated they would've been just perfect. Very often wider thighs make shopping for well-fitting pants a darn nightmare.
Hated Dockers. The squares at the office wore them constantly. Now we enjoy a well made flat front Chino, as they're much cleaner. The only pleated trousers I have are part of an Armani double breasted dark blue wool suit. It's my go to formal suit.
I was the boss of a service company in Florida often outdoors, so no jacket just Van Heusen white long sleeve shirt always pressed. I always wore pleated pants to work to separate me from my employees (dressed casual) soit was about the business look, I don't know about nerdy? Because I got a lot of compliments from women : )
You have a very good channel. A smart and confident "Nerdy" role model doesn't exist in the main stream. I like history and fashion. Great video. Very Educational.
I have never stopped wearing them. I despise the flat front pants of today. They are not comfortable and I don't like the way that they look either. I don't care what the current style is. For me, pleated and cuffed pants are classic and timeless and I will wear them all the way to the grave.
@@seanswinton6242 Exactly, though I prefer my pants to have cuffs so while I have some that are not, I tend to wear cuffs more often. I also wear wing tips of one form or another the majority of the time and they are best mates with cuffs as far as I'm concerned.
There's just something about that single pleated grey slack at 1:33 that really got me excited! That clean pressed look, but still slim like a flat front, while providing the room in the sitting area, & the line for ironing/pressing. I'm thinking I may do that to future custom suits!
I only wear pleated pants. Period. The stores have stopped carrying them, so now I order them online, and I do not believe that, somehow or other, me just stopped wearing them. Really, just bring 'em back!
In the past fashion trends were set by the dress of mature men, youths wanted to look older, like Fred Astaire, or James Bond etc. Now fashion is set by young men who favour a more casual and relaxed look. Compare the adverts of then and now.
In theory, I really like the idea of pleats and that timeless good look that transcends fashion trends, but in practice, I always felt like I had this bubble ballooning out around my waist and hips when wearing pleated pants.
It's just a case of bad tailoring. Just get a pattern drafted from a good bespoke tailor. Ask around. In that case you won't have to pay for the expensive tailoring and materials, just the good cut. Then bring the pattern to any common tailor, as they can make it for cheaper.
Pleats can look great when done well; but they are also easier to mess up. Flat fronts are less interesting and elegant, but they are less complicated to get right.
I wish you guys had focused a little more on how to 'get into' pleated pants, on a budget. In the past I have heard that basically the only way to get them is to have them tailored for you, which is outside my budget (I'm also looking at you French-Cuffs). I would have liked a list of places to shop, or a little bit about finding pleated pants second hand. Great video!
We've covered the topic of getting into pleated pants before, and you can apply our secret process to find your menswear purchases on a budget: www.gentlemansgazette.com/get-80-percent-off/?
Pleats are back in style and have been for a while. Literally all the fast fashion brands sell them now. Jcrew, BR, Zara, ASOS, everything. They might not be necessarily done well, but they're there.
I like to wear pleated pants more than a flat front style, but pleated pants have become hard to find. Unfortunately for the consumer, we can only buy what is made available to us.
Pleated and flat front both have their place in a man’s (and woman’s ) wardrobe. I like pleated worsted wool for work because I sit most of the day and then are still comfortable when damp from sweat. Flat when I’m more active (lighter fabric and colors usually).
I cycle everyday to work and there's no way I would wear a slim fit. I had bought a few "Straight Fit"s a few years back and even they are too tight when I'm on a 2 degree climb, reducing my blood flow and constricting my thighs. Nowadays, I'm just wearing my 10 year old school trousers which were tailored and of a high enough quality to remain intact all these years. Kudos to the tailor for keeping 4 extra inches for lengthening.
Modern mens clothing has been a catastrophe for the last two decades nearly. Here is hoping for a return to a classic look pleats and a higher waist cut. Great video btw.
I agree these skinny jeans, or low waist pants are terrible . The other thing is not everyone is 18 or 24. Second , mens clothing today is somewhat unisex , saw that listed on several clothing sites which doesn't flatter me at all.
Ive torn many a pair of RTW suit trousers. I workout (never skip leg day...) And martial arts, so have large legs. Therefore all MTM suit now have pleated trousers. It just makes sense. We need more fabric when we sit and pleats facilitate this.
Did we stop? I think all my dress trousers have pleats (except the very few i have for "business casual". I look for them specifically when buying as I hate flat front trousers.
I really do not hate flat front trousers, Like I have a high waisted flat front, they are terribly great. But for the flat front low waisted and skinny ones, oh god I suffocate while seeing them.
As someone who lives in a very warm climate, I feel generally that when I wear pleated pants they provide more room to breathe and don't hug your legs in the middle of summer as you do with modern slim fitting pans. For that reason I love wearing them when its hot outside and feel like they do need a comeback.
I'm 175lb with a 300lb squat. Pleats are kind of necessary for my thighs and trunk. Flat front doesn't leave much room even if my tailor brings the seat out
My school pants used to pleaded half pants design. Still my dad uses it and gets it stitched from a tailor. Advantage of it is can be resized pleads when child grows super fast.
@@Boselaphus well that won't happen, as we observe the behavioral problems of this generation. I would say that you should just ignore these trends and start creating your own style.
@@nitrorush3954 Haha, the behavior of my generation is completely subjective, but objectively you are true, very much spoilt. (I am also because of comfort zone). On creating our own style, it should be economical and not synthetic in fibre, that is the motto for me.
I love this video i only buy pants if they're pleated nowadays. and as always since I'm leaving a comment on this channel, my favorite channel on youtube, i must say get a new intro it just brings back Sven in his basement vibes.
I find pleated pants are likable in a suit with a vest... but depends very much on the figure of the man. If not slim&tall with a bigger head the man looks automatically chubby and short..... Richard Gere is a perfect example who can wear this, also Fred Astaire.... Danny DeVito NOT! 😁 As to see in the old photos most of them look very outdated and unfavorable
I stopped wearing them simply because I found more comfortable pants. Comfort stretch waistbands and stretchable fabrics have come a long way. Also, fabrics that don't have to be ironed are quite nice as well. Pleated pants are generally made out of stiffer fabrics that wrinkle as well.
This is true. I am almost 60 years old and get comments from strangers when I wear age-appropriate clothing. Many men my age wear sweats, shorts, flip-flops, etc. everywhere.
i never stopped. in fact - my local mens wear store didnt have them - so i went online and ordered 4 suits with pleated pants and had a tailor adjust them
I’m 50, and I grew up wearing pleated pants. I started noticing pleated pants being harder to find in the mid-1990s, and I have been waiting for them to come back into style for 25 years. I finally gave in and purchased my first set of flat-front trousers two years ago. Of course, as one would expect, I’m now seeing a resurgence in pleated pants. One of the benefits I like about pleats is that they mask a man’s natural bulge. Some flat front pants can be downright obscene.
Pleated pants are better for holding a crease. They're also good if you have large legs. Also helped me learn how to iron dress pants properly too thanks to the pleat being an indicator on where to iron
1) They will come back when the fashion changes 2) Flat front pants effectively shifts the leg part of the pants towards the rear compared to the belt part of the pants. If you have a muscular physique flat fronts do not have enough room - they tend to pull on the front of your legs. Therefore the kind of physique that can wear flat fronts are men with very skinny legs, or slightly overweight men where the belt needs to expand towards the front. 3) You can make very elegant and slim fitting pants with pleats.
I actaully bought some lightweight pleated pants earlier this summer and I wore them almost dialy. I was only 18 at the time but I like dressing buisness casaul and more elegent. I think its also unique to see since no one really wears them anymore. So I will continue to use them and I will continue to enjoy it.
The only difference between then and now is, nowadays pleated pants are harder to find. I've never stopped wearing them and never will. In the interests of tact and decorum I won't say what I think of the "other style"
I still wear them, in fact, I never stopped wearing them. I could never understand why anyone stopped. I wear what I like, not what other people like, and it has always worked well for me. Though, to the points in the video, I am a giant nerd, only wear pleats in the workplace, and am super in shape so don't have a problem with how they fit.
Same here. All of my suites have pleated pants. But I also grew up in the 80's and I still think those suites look good, lol.
I'm definitely not a fan of flat front pants.
Same here, but i wear both pleated and non pleated. Just hate the low rises in most pants these days.
What would Crockett have done in hot Miami without his cool pleated and wide leg trousers in the 80's!
Same here . Have mine done custom made Executive Fit at Men's Wearhouse. Effeminate tight pants narrow legs is a absolute no go for me.
@@RoseNegrete
Couldn’t agree more. Wide legged, pleated pants are so very comfortable in warmer weather. I love my light tan Canali trouser’s wide legs. The summer weight wool whafts against my legs and feels so wonderfully cool.
I firmly feel that pleated trousers are outstanding & those who believe in class can easily follow what l mean...The men in early 40s & 50s had a much better dress sense than we have today. They always looked adorable....
What's wrong with 60s flat front clean look? Pleats looked fine 70 years ago but so did Bobby socks 80 years ago 😅
I wore pleated pants for years, but then I stopped wearing them in the early 1990’s for two reasons: 1) the flat front, non-pleated pants looked nice, trim and tailored and 2) because the pleated pants (especially if the pleats faced inwards) tended to balloon open and make me look larger/heavier than I was. And then there’s the pleated corduroy slacks … OMG … talk about ballooning and making someone look large! 😳
That’s exactly what happened. Mens style changed.
Exactly. My wife forbade me from wearing them for these reasons lol
Next time you’re at a place trying on clothing, try on a pair of slimmer fitting pleated pants. They look great.
I have slimmer fitting trousers with double inward facing pleats- they just look way nicer than normal trousers.
Slim cut will look Bad if youre just a little but overweight (imho), a more roomy fit Not so much
Pleated, curdory pants looks like a child's pyjamas. Great if you don't want to attract women.
*sees the notification for this video as I’m putting on a pair of pleated pants*
I’ve worn both flat front and pleated pants and what I REALLY miss are tailored suits with two pants. Once was all suits came with an extra set of pants.
I have always preferred pleated trousers and wear them almost exclusively over a flat front. Double pleats of course either forward or backwards depending on what I’m pairing them with. Many sartorial focused brands have pleated trousers in their line ups. My favorite trousers that I’ve worn most often here recently are ghurka trousers I purchased from Scavini. I will say that it’s a lot harder to find good pleated trousers. Most I own I’ve often had to resort to custom just because of my body, getting the right fit, which is harder to nail when involving pleats. My thighs and rear are bigger so pleats naturally help me with comfort as well as style.
If you can't find something - it's out of style, and you ought to stop looking.
You're obviously a True Gentleman.
I haven't stopped wearing them. They're a LOT more comfortable than flat front pants.
This is a fact!
I just order a pair of double-inward facing pleated pants from my tailor and he was also talking about how hard pleated pants are to find nowadays. He seemed pretty happy that I ordered some.
I love and always wear pleated high waisted mens trousers but the problem is it's hard to get a tailor who is perfect for the job. Pleated and perfectly tailored high waist trousers provide a vintage gentleman look.
Finding a good tailor or alteration store is an huge challenge. If you can't find a good tailor, you also have to know and convey to the alreration store how you like the pants to be hemmed and where the break is for the fit in how you wear your pants with the normal shoes you wear them with. Otherwise the challenge is real. I've had to explain many times finding a decent alteration store what kind of cuff i want and size as well where i want the trousers hemmed in measurement in the fitting with the break of the pants. So if you can't find a good tailor, you also have to be knowledgeable to advise them of the fit you want. Many these places have females and they don't know how classic mens trousers are to be fitted.
It really helps if you have pics of what you like, especially pics of the inside of the seam.
This video completely misses the point that modern fabrics are stretchier. Thus the original purpose of pleats, to make clothes roomier, is being achieved in a completely different way. We are more likely to see men move to lightweight knitted stretch fabrics, than heavier pleated ones. Until improvements in artificial intelligence and automation allow a return to bespoke tailoring, a significant move to well cut pleated clothes is unlikely!
18:12
I buy them all the time.
Stretch is utilitarian, otherwise pleats are ornamental aesthetic.
Not necessarily, I have suits made by a tailor in HK 15 years ago during my travels. Although not close to being saville row, I didn't have to pay $3k or more for each suit either. And I had my suits tailored with an extra pair of trousers. I'm a bit ole school, so they were all outward pleated and cuffed.
Their thesis was that the pleats were to preserve the crease
I think they're elegant and classy. Although I will say I like a tapered look more than the "skinny" look as that fits my shape best. They may be out of fashion but that doesn't mean they can't be stylish. I recently ordered a custom pair of high waisted pleated wool trousers and can't wait to incorporate them into everyday wear!
Nice hat.
In Argentina we got our 'cowboys' called Gauchos, still to this day is common to see them wear the old fashioned "bombachas" a very confortable pair of trousers that look pretty much like these 3:52 pair of 1811 pants, clearly they come from that period but they are still very very popular in my country as you go to the Pampas region. not only gauchos wear them, in the past decades they had a revival and its easy to find not so old people wearing our national pleated pants. you can google 'bombacha de campo' or 'bombacha de gaucho' .
While everything you said is true and accurate, the difference is that the gaucho wore and still wears bombachas as work pants whereas the pleated pants were for fashion. The bombachas were easy to make and designed to wear loose to have a lot of room due the physical labor the gauchos used to do.
I still own a double-breasted, charcoal color, Christian Dior suit with pleated pants. I wore it last week with a white shirt and a light blue, solid tie. After a three-hour dinner with the president of a company, we left the restaurant and after we shook hands at the parking lot, he goes.......next time don't wear that suit....you look too good in it!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Pleated trousers are essential for dancing Argentine Tango
I wear them, never stopped. I really dislike the " Skinny pants or low waist" they don't look well on middle aged men.
Thank You. I thought I'm the only one
Why am I staying up to watch a 20 minute plus video on pleated pants? I don't know it just am glad I did! Very impressive research and analysis!
Can't help but feel that a lot was missed here. First and foremost, pleated trousers are part of a draped and tailored look. They require more attention to detail such as steam pressing or poping into a trouser press to keep them looking sharp. And sorry chaps but pleated trousers have to be the right length such that they integrate into the lines of your shoes and waist and not stop short. Pleated trousers need high rise fronts to work and todays trend is the opposite of this. They must be in fabric that takes a crease and keeps it. Most of the pleated trousers worn in this show looked as though they came out of a bag and not off a hanger. Today's looks are not draped so much as forced into shape by the shape of your body. Tight suits and shirts might look sexy to some but on an older man are simply uncomfortable and fail to hide the truths that come with maturity. And tight non stretch fabrics as found in formal shirts and suits are uncomfortable as they pull and gape. We seem to be heading into ridiculous territory now as mainstream UK gents clothes makers like Charles Tyrwhitt and Brooke Taverner sell clothes that simply look too small, too short and too tight to be comfortable. So my sense of where things will go next is back to draped clothing with pleats because tightness has got as tight as it can go. And from what I have seen, the Savill Row and other quality London tailors seem to agree.
Sir, you either did not watch the video or you missed or completely phased out when a number of your points were mentioned either directly or obliquely.
Agree
Are padded shoulder suits coming back? Not sure what to do with my old suits. Throw away or not.
I have always worn pleats as it has an amazingly classy and retro classic look...However I also wear flat fronts for a cleaner look...if I'm wearing a sweater or overcoat that has a vintage look then definitely pleats are my choice...however if my ensemble for that day is more up to date then I go with the flat fronts...as you can see it all depends on the total ensemble for me...I change up accordingly...
I agree with you on this. The way i answer this is by saying that in my personal wardrobe I have quite a range of quality trousers. I'd say at least 70% of them are pleated trousers and of different basic shade in colors. The rest are flat front of the same trouser colors as much as possible. Thus If the dress style demands it i have the versality to go with a pleated trousers and which are all often of a high quality fabric weave or a flat front pants of similar or lesser quality blend. So year i can change things up accordingly with the options. I think it can be difficult to convey to others to have options with your clothing and how to do so.
I love my pleated trousers. I never stopped wearig them. I love the classical style pleated trousers and the quality drape of the pants. You stand out in an elegant way in style and visual interest in your pants much more than many around you. Good quality trousers are the anchor in my wardrobe and in a range of the basic colors. Most of my trousers are pleated and wool or a HQ blend fabric, properly hemmed and cuffed. Take personal attention and care with my trousers as they were all custom ordered online and then taken to a tailor. It's very hard to shop at a local store for the quality and trousers i want. Good menswear stores are very hard to find and with the range of sizes you personally need.
I hate that the mass market for menswear has eliminated pleated trousers from their stock. Some tailored shops offer a single pleat but this just looks half-assed and indecisive. I may have to go custom made if I really want to sport pleated trousers.
And then there are people who would come up with arguments like that this fashion does not work in this age.
I mean, pleats only came to be because of fashion. And the reason why it's no longer really around is because that style went away and the fashion is more tight fitted and slim fit.
So your hate for the mass market eliminating pleats is unwarranted as it is the mass market that brought it in the first place when it was in style
@@pepperdeez if you are fit and slender - great, waist 36 and up, slim fit is not at all complementary.
@@pepperdeez Actually, I've never had a problem finding pleated pants. In fact, I just picked up pair a few months ago.
I never stopped wearing pleated pants; they have always been my preference for professional business wear. However, I am in my mid-50s and have old-school thinking and style. This video was a well-assembled informative review.
Hm- I am going to disagree a little on one point. Lightweight summer trousers can also have pleats. I don't think the two are mutually exclusive. The bad drape of modern pleats is more because the rise is too short. Those trousers between the 30s and 50s were up at the bellybutton or higher. When the trousers are up at the waist the pleats drape properly-when they are hanging off the hips they open in an unsightly way. I say this as someone who loves heavy fabrics.
very well said.
You are correct on this observation. I personally wear a lot of quality trousers where many are pleated, yet some in the option of a flat front just for a different look with the same pants color. But all my pants i wear fit me and hang just below my belley button by 1-2 inches and fit and wear well. If they were just hanging off my hips then the fit would look terrible.
as someone who sews I agree with this and I think it's more the quality of the fabrics and also fit. Even in fabric stores there is a huge difference in how tight the weave is based on price and the tightness of the weave has a huge effect on how well it will crease.
Very good point
You nailed it 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
One reason why pleats have gone out of fashion is that men have gotten significantly fatter than the early 1980s when the style became popular. When a man has a slim flat belly, pleats can look flattering, but when a man has a typical rounded protruding belly (as is so common these days) and then below his waist the pleats bulge out again, then the look is not so attractive. The double budge effect just draws attention to the fact that he is not slim.
Always wear pleats! Very rare if I don't! Somethings never go out of style...pleats and cuffs! But that's just me! Love both!
I loved pleated trousers!! My preference was no more than two pleats per leg, any more looked affected and just wrong!
The emphasis on skinny and slim styles in modern day says a lot about how un prosperous we are at textile and clothing industry, and how bad it is even though bolts of polyester demons are being woven every single second that make abundance of fabric, stills me with a disappointment in modern day clothing industry.
BINGO - you got it. its about saving fabric and saving production steps and in today's world of fast fashion prices - quite literally EVERY PENNY COUNTS
I have a friend in the textile industry, one of the problems they have is the garment designer will provide the pattern cutting layout and the manufacturer will alter it to be more efficient in the fabric use, but to do so they will have to cut pieces slightly "off-grain" this is why the legs of your jeans twist, or your T Shirts/shirts miss shape after a few washings.
But they can save 5cm of fabric - times that by 1,000,000 garments a year its 50,000m of fabric at $5 a metre - its 1/4 million $ pure profit.
Turnups / cuffs on trousers use a HUGE amount of fabric, so they are no longer fashionable. Pleats, they are out. skinny legs - In. Anything that reduces the fabric in a garment is IN big style.
@@piccalillipit9211 So, only the profit of those business men decides our fashion. How evil it is lol. That is why I switched to tailoring my clothes.
It's not really just profit , as much is is not communicating, fitting and matching art to need.
Watch Rylance in "The Outfit". Excess profit is just value mismatch.
If you have it done by algorithm/spreadsheet as opposed to face to face, it's what you get.
It becomes easier to push an abstraction, a. form , on someone than match solutions to what and who they are.
Choice needs to be in balance with decision. We have plenty of choices in fabric, just not good help in deciding how to fit them to the task at hand.
@@piccalillipit9211 you don't got it. Adding two or three inches of width doesn't cost them more. It takes up more space width-wise, which is almost always cut away as waste anyways. You simply cannot use excess width to squeeze in more pieces. They don't mind adding a few more inches. 50+ years family experience in tailoring and garment production.
@@substygram4357 - Its only cut off if it can be accommodated in the width otherwise the stagger for the legs has to be increased and that uses up more linear meterage. OK dude not going to argue. Leve it at that.
I never stopped wearing them. I hope they do not make a comeback yet, as I am able to purchase high quality second hand examples for next to nothing. Under my suit coat, they are unseen. I am happily and frugally well dressed.
I still wear them, men in India still wear them a lot, but one sad thing, the new generation do not even care to know about it.
oh, sadly my pleats are not good as the pleats on good ones. Mine are shallow, good point, I will make my next 2 pairs of them deeper.
I did not stop wearing pleated pants, its just that most stores stopped selling them unfortunately
Like most aspects of classic men's fashion, pleated pants can most certainly be a part of any man's wardrobe but require attention to detail and an honest approach to one's body type so the right choices are made in pleat type, fabric, and cuff width and break. As exemplified by that parachute Preston is wearing, modern designs often get it wrong, particularly in fabric weight. Maybe a heavier-set gentleman would wear those trousers better, but doubtful.
Everything billows on Preston.
@@eighteenin78 Yes, it does. Same as my husband. It's really hard to find proper clothing for 6'1" man who weighs 150 lbs. and has a 36-inch sleeve length. :(
1 of my 5 suits has pleaded pants. It was my first suit I purchased 7 years ago. Don't mind the pleats since it's a unique look along with the fact that it's a midnight blue suit and pleats are subtle. Being 6' 0 and athletic helps too.
Your down to earth channel is a breath of fresh air.
I'm 64, so I've seen pleats, and flats come back around, and to be honest I'm currently a fan of both seeing that I love the Vintage, and the Retro styles with the exception of Skinny. I love them because they both remind men of when men dressed up, plus at my age sweats just doesn't look mature, also the right material will always be comfortable.
I took up pleated plants simultaneously with putting down jeans (forever.) That was in the later 1970s when Patagonia first started making climbing pants. My first pair of pleated pants were canvas, from Patagonia. I continued to buy them until that style went out of production, then switched to regular chinos (khakis) that were pleated. In the late 1990s I switched to BDUs, with some detours into "tactical" pants, and have never looked back. The colors are all there, the seasonal fabric choices are more numerous, and production is stable. Not exactly couture, but I have a light gray pair and you can dress them up. I can, I'm a scientist... and I'm addicted to the cargo pockets.
See rockabilly, better dress guys! Wear pleated pants! So cool, thanks for bringing these wears up!
I ended up doing a tailors course. I now sew all my clothes. Pleets i always put in including the lip at the bottom of the trousers
Real 40s look .
I have had a couple of lovely pleated trousers (girl here.) One made for women and one made for men. (The designer men's pair was superior in every way.) The fabric is key.
I have a pair of pleated pants too! I like to wear them with a more slim fitting top to balance the larger pants.
I love wearing pleated pants, ( most of my pants are). However, if someone is looking for single pleat pants. Hart Schaffner & Marx make an awesome fitting pair. Also Oxxford pleated pants.
Some of my torusers are pleated, its so comfortable.
I spent my teenage years during the eighties, it was all about pleated trousers and shoulder pads. I was fairly thin and that style of fashion was brilliant, bring it back please
Just started wearing them a year ago! Preference is t shirt tucked or button up with 2-3 buttons open
The fact that your team records so much of your own B-Roll is just fantastic. New to the channel, but I love it!
I will never stop wearing them. Those are the most comfortable type. They do make me look older for my age(I am 21!). But I don't care what others think. I want my comfort and I insist my tailor to always make pants with pleats.
I know, right? You're lucky. My tailor REFUSES to make me pleated pants these days. As he says, " Sir, you certainly will be thanking me profusely even now and in the future because you will certainly look as though you are stuck in the 80's if I continue to make you pleated trousers." What a character.....
I went back to pleated pants couple of years back. Even my tailor asked me several time whether I'm sure that I want them. But the shear comfort of wearing them surpassed anything.
I recently went thrifting and found a pair of trousers with side adjusters, they fit really well but had they been pleated they would've been just perfect. Very often wider thighs make shopping for well-fitting pants a darn nightmare.
YEP - I had the exact same problem - so I started making my own. Its easier than you thin actually.
Hated Dockers. The squares at the office wore them constantly. Now we enjoy a well made flat front Chino, as they're much cleaner.
The only pleated trousers I have are part of an Armani double breasted dark blue wool suit. It's my go to formal suit.
I was the boss of a service company in Florida often outdoors, so no jacket just Van Heusen white long sleeve shirt always pressed. I always wore pleated pants to work to separate me from my employees (dressed casual) soit was about the business look, I don't know about nerdy? Because I got a lot of compliments from women : )
This is literally my favorite new channel
Me and my two spare tyres love pleated pants, and wear them whenever we can get them in a suitable colour fabric and length.
whats a spare tyre?
@@burritodog3634 The rings of flab above and below the belt. It's a British term, so far as I know.
You have a very good channel. A smart and confident "Nerdy" role model doesn't exist in the main stream. I like history and fashion. Great video. Very Educational.
I have never stopped wearing them. I despise the flat front pants of today. They are not comfortable and I don't like the way that they look either. I don't care what the current style is. For me, pleated and cuffed pants are classic and timeless and I will wear them all the way to the grave.
I agree. I'm not skinny so pleats are best. As for cuffs I go back and forth. It generally depends on the shoes.
@@seanswinton6242 Exactly, though I prefer my pants to have cuffs so while I have some that are not, I tend to wear cuffs more often. I also wear wing tips of one form or another the majority of the time and they are best mates with cuffs as far as I'm concerned.
There's just something about that single pleated grey slack at 1:33 that really got me excited! That clean pressed look, but still slim like a flat front, while providing the room in the sitting area, & the line for ironing/pressing. I'm thinking I may do that to future custom suits!
I only wear pleated pants. Period. The stores have stopped carrying them, so now I order them online, and I do not believe that, somehow or other, me just stopped wearing them. Really, just bring 'em back!
I LOVE that you guys used the sunny reference from the gang cracks the liberty bell 😂😂
In the past fashion trends were set by the dress of mature men, youths wanted to look older, like Fred Astaire, or James Bond etc. Now fashion is set by young men who favour a more casual and relaxed look. Compare the adverts of then and now.
Very informative and smooth flowing delivery style.
"We think you'd be hard-pressed..."! 😂
Recent innovations in stretch fabric has made the necessity for roomy pleated pants obsolete.
In theory, I really like the idea of pleats and that timeless good look that transcends fashion trends, but in practice, I always felt like I had this bubble ballooning out around my waist and hips when wearing pleated pants.
Maybe you need a tailor
It's just a case of bad tailoring. Just get a pattern drafted from a good bespoke tailor. Ask around. In that case you won't have to pay for the expensive tailoring and materials, just the good cut. Then bring the pattern to any common tailor, as they can make it for cheaper.
Pleats can look great when done well; but they are also easier to mess up. Flat fronts are less interesting and elegant, but they are less complicated to get right.
I wish you guys had focused a little more on how to 'get into' pleated pants, on a budget. In the past I have heard that basically the only way to get them is to have them tailored for you, which is outside my budget (I'm also looking at you French-Cuffs). I would have liked a list of places to shop, or a little bit about finding pleated pants second hand. Great video!
We've covered the topic of getting into pleated pants before, and you can apply our secret process to find your menswear purchases on a budget: www.gentlemansgazette.com/get-80-percent-off/?
Pleats are back in style and have been for a while. Literally all the fast fashion brands sell them now. Jcrew, BR, Zara, ASOS, everything. They might not be necessarily done well, but they're there.
I like to wear pleated pants more than a flat front style, but pleated pants have become hard to find. Unfortunately for the consumer, we can only buy what is made available to us.
You can always have them made.
Pleated and flat front both have their place in a man’s (and woman’s ) wardrobe. I like pleated worsted wool for work because I sit most of the day and then are still comfortable when damp from sweat. Flat when I’m more active (lighter fabric and colors usually).
Pleated trousers 👖 with cuffs; Classic!! In my opinion. There's nothing better. I've never followed trends.
I cycle everyday to work and there's no way I would wear a slim fit. I had bought a few "Straight Fit"s a few years back and even they are too tight when I'm on a 2 degree climb, reducing my blood flow and constricting my thighs. Nowadays, I'm just wearing my 10 year old school trousers which were tailored and of a high enough quality to remain intact all these years. Kudos to the tailor for keeping 4 extra inches for lengthening.
Modern mens clothing has been a catastrophe for the last two decades nearly. Here is hoping for a return to a classic look pleats and a higher waist cut. Great video btw.
I agree these skinny jeans, or low waist pants are terrible . The other thing is not everyone is 18 or 24. Second , mens clothing today is somewhat unisex , saw that listed on several clothing sites which doesn't flatter me at all.
Ive torn many a pair of RTW suit trousers. I workout (never skip leg day...) And martial arts, so have large legs.
Therefore all MTM suit now have pleated trousers. It just makes sense. We need more fabric when we sit and pleats facilitate this.
Did we stop? I think all my dress trousers have pleats (except the very few i have for "business casual". I look for them specifically when buying as I hate flat front trousers.
I really do not hate flat front trousers, Like I have a high waisted flat front, they are terribly great. But for the flat front low waisted and skinny ones, oh god I suffocate while seeing them.
Where do you get them brotha
As someone who lives in a very warm climate, I feel generally that when I wear pleated pants they provide more room to breathe and don't hug your legs in the middle of summer as you do with modern slim fitting pans. For that reason I love wearing them when its hot outside and feel like they do need a comeback.
i still wear them. even as a smart casual with a polo
Another reason is that the prevalence of stretch fabrics reduces the functional benefit of pleats in the menswear choices of the mainstream
Pleated will never be defeated
Great as always. Very informative.
I rarely wear flat fronted trousers now, I mostly wear pleats.
Preston has come a long way. I truly enjoy his videos.
I never stopped.
And never stop, they are comfortable.
I'm 175lb with a 300lb squat. Pleats are kind of necessary for my thighs and trunk. Flat front doesn't leave much room even if my tailor brings the seat out
These trousers are inCREASINGLY rare, then. ;) Sorry, couldn't resist...
Extra points for explaining "plus fours", and also, "Hollywood waist".
Wait a minute, people don’t use them?
Most of my pants have pleats
My school pants used to pleaded half pants design. Still my dad uses it and gets it stitched from a tailor. Advantage of it is can be resized pleads when child grows super fast.
Because everyone started following impactrical trends, and starting ridiculing the very trend they wore, without any acknowledgement.
Trends, I hope they become subtle and sartorial, instead of changing the whole method and silhouette of clothing.
@@Boselaphus well that won't happen, as we observe the behavioral problems of this generation.
I would say that you should just ignore these trends and start creating your own style.
@@nitrorush3954 Haha, the behavior of my generation is completely subjective, but objectively you are true, very much spoilt. (I am also because of comfort zone).
On creating our own style, it should be economical and not synthetic in fibre, that is the motto for me.
I love this video i only buy pants if they're pleated nowadays. and as always since I'm leaving a comment on this channel, my favorite channel on youtube, i must say get a new intro it just brings back Sven in his basement vibes.
I think people have lost taste and respect, is why they dress less stylish and classy
Wonderful content along with equally excellent presentation, thank you.
I ordered a custom suit with pleats.
This was a fascinating commentary on the subject I had never considered. Thank you for the history lesson, sir!
I find pleated pants are likable in a suit with a vest... but depends very much on the figure of the man. If not slim&tall with a bigger head the man looks automatically chubby and short.....
Richard Gere is a perfect example who can wear this, also Fred Astaire.... Danny DeVito NOT! 😁
As to see in the old photos most of them look very outdated and unfavorable
You can be a perfect example for pleated pants if you rock them well.
@Clifford V haha, yes
They question is...what would Danny DeVito look GOOD in?!? Good thing he can act!!! He will never be a fashion plate.
I stopped wearing them simply because I found more comfortable pants. Comfort stretch waistbands and stretchable fabrics have come a long way. Also, fabrics that don't have to be ironed are quite nice as well. Pleated pants are generally made out of stiffer fabrics that wrinkle as well.
Also there is the infantilization of menswear as well casualization.
This is true. I am almost 60 years old and get comments from strangers when I wear age-appropriate clothing. Many men my age wear sweats, shorts, flip-flops, etc. everywhere.
i never stopped. in fact - my local mens wear store didnt have them - so i went online and ordered 4 suits with pleated pants and had a tailor adjust them
I’m 50, and I grew up wearing pleated pants. I started noticing pleated pants being harder to find in the mid-1990s, and I have been waiting for them to come back into style for 25 years. I finally gave in and purchased my first set of flat-front trousers two years ago. Of course, as one would expect, I’m now seeing a resurgence in pleated pants.
One of the benefits I like about pleats is that they mask a man’s natural bulge. Some flat front pants can be downright obscene.
You said it. 😂
Love the pleated pants. Nicely done with the explanation. You are wonderful !
I never stopped. Muscular thighs and man junk need pleats.
Obscuring one's junk is a big deal in some societies.
Pleated pants are better for holding a crease. They're also good if you have large legs. Also helped me learn how to iron dress pants properly too thanks to the pleat being an indicator on where to iron
Flat fronted trousers are hideous
1) They will come back when the fashion changes
2) Flat front pants effectively shifts the leg part of the pants towards the rear compared to the belt part of the pants. If you have a muscular physique flat fronts do not have enough room - they tend to pull on the front of your legs. Therefore the kind of physique that can wear flat fronts are men with very skinny legs, or slightly overweight men where the belt needs to expand towards the front.
3) You can make very elegant and slim fitting pants with pleats.
thanks for posting
I actaully bought some lightweight pleated pants earlier this summer and I wore them almost dialy. I was only 18 at the time but I like dressing buisness casaul and more elegent. I think its also unique to see since no one really wears them anymore. So I will continue to use them and I will continue to enjoy it.
I haven't stopped (except for jeans)... I still wear them. I prefer pleated. Classic, traditionally-stylish and much more comfortable.
The only difference between then and now is, nowadays pleated pants are harder to find. I've never stopped wearing them and never will. In the interests of tact and decorum I won't say what I think of the "other style"