Hello Sir; I want to thank you so very much! I live in a very old building built in the early 60's and the walls were brick and sand filled as mortal. I could not get any plastering to stick because of the sandy dry bits. However, because of your professional treatment prior to applying the wall plaster I was able to take a crumbling wall and rebuild it to a beautiful strong and smooth wall that looks brand new, well it is brand new. Sir, I owe you so much for this lesson you have my utmost respect as a craftsman. I asked so many people at Lowes and Home depute to help me and they kept telling me to buy things that I didn't even need. Oh by the way, I am a 55 year old woman 56 next month and because of your amazing directions I saved a bundle and now I have an ability that I didn't have before I found this video. If you ever wonder if you are helping anyone let me tell you YES!!!!!!! YOU ARE. I TRULY APPRECIATE YOU SIR.
Nice video. To all the plasterers knocking this at least there is no plaster on the ceiling, woodwork, beams, floor, window sill, down the sink and drain. The bloody mess plasterers make is unbelievable yet they have a go at a guy doing a tidy job. And let's face it you wouldn't come out and do this anyway, well not for any reasonable price and no price is worth the mess you guys make.
@@taichpaul this guy ain't a plasterers by the way. Never seen a patch this small being done so slow and the way he holds the hawk to the wall is amateur. He did a good job for someone who I think isn't a plasterers
I have and made it bloody hard work... doing it all wrong. LOL Just about to do some now. Thanks to this video, should be a lot easier this time and a better result.
As a multi skilled joiner I’ve done quite a bit of plastering and patchwork learning from plasterers I’ve worked with and for a painter and decorator he done a mighty fine job! 👍
Would you know if I should treat old gypsym wall with something before repair and rendering with new gypsym for proper adhesion? I heard some household chemical should be used, but forgot which... (Not drywall, the house is very old and built only from solid gypsum and natural rocks)
We had huge chunks of plaster fall off when we had an old sink and loo cistern removed. Thanks to your video I went out and bought the right tools and I gave it a go. It's not perfect by any means but I'm chuffed with the result!
Thanks for the great video...just the right length and speed of the tutorial throughout. Great job explaining all of the required steps and the reason for each step in the repair process. Well done! I have recently purchased a 200 year old home in Virginia, USA which needs quite a lot a plaster repair. I have subscribed and will refer to your channel regularly as I complete the repairs to Carter Hall. Thanks again!
I've watched a couple of your videos on how to plaster and I appreciate the time that you've taken 2 show these tricks you've learned. Thank you God bless
Good on you for knocking those old nails over. Surprising how many people just throw old timber with nails sticking out on the floor waiting for someone to stand on them !
I got to be honest, I live in an old Victorian house and every time I decorate I have to do similar jobs. My heart sinks every time I remove wallpaper. 🤪
Excellent, thank you for such a clear and informative video. I'm especially impressed that you completed it with tool cleaning advice at the end. I've seen "professionals" throwing plaster water down drains before. 🤦🏻♂️ Bravo Sir. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
That’s how they used to do it in the old days , nail it to wooden wedges in the brick , then skim up to it , same with architraves and skirtings and picture rails , no need for caulk , good job as it wasn’t invented.
ha ha haaa!!!!!!! finished 90% of my plastering ,thanks for this video,helped a lot...cost a tenner for a bag of multi finish?i used a no.3 spatula from the kitchen and an old enamel bowl i had lying around (i can hear all the plasterers having a hissy fit ) worked a treat....thanks again ...to the bloke who said the whole wall needs skimming,it's a fucking old house,if it's not falling off,leave well alone,,cheers lads p.s. it helps if you play a bit of tom waits
Good video to watch and the end resault was very good to be fair. Im guessing the walls were going to be wallpaped so in my opinon it didnt need a plasterer to come in and do this job when it could of been done by yourself. Good job
A lot of us decent decorator's would have probably made good plasterers, I couldn't count the amount of times where I've had to repair damaged walls sometimes full walls as well good job Sir as allways
Painting and Decorating no problem. It’s hard to find quality tradesmen that take pride in their work so was hoping you may be local. No problem though, completely understand. 👍🏻
Good video for anyone needing to do this at home who hasn't got another £200 for a plasterer. You should show people what happens when PVA isn't used at all, just to force home the message. :-)
@@suetheron4495 the existing wall will suck the water out of your new plaster. You'll come back later and see plaster powder, not hard plaster. Never skip thoroughly wetting the wall. Just follow what this guy does and you'll be OK
@@hpt08 hi HP Im applying this to my own 1927 house with clay bricks, and am skipping the PVA. The fact that the wall sucks the moisture out of the plaster, is part of what makes it stick, because it also sucks the lime compounds into its matrix. Im throughly spraying the wall before applying any lime plaster, and spraying lightly after application. So far so good, no cracking and strong as anything, not powdery. I have to admit, getting the right mix has been tricky (soaking hydrated lime, mixing with gymsum hard plaster, roughly 1:1 ratio by weight). This guy appears to be using a different product. I would like to emulate his ability to achieve a smooth blemish-free surface, but my patches are larger and more difficult to achieve this atm
He's done nothing wrong here personally. I'm a bit better with the trowel though... the trick to troweling is confidence. Get it on the wall and don't piss about
In this job you have turn your hand to loads of stuff. I’d love to see all the armchair plasterers start their own channels. Then you tell them how sh*t they are at painting. Bunch of muppets!
.pva as a primer should never be applied at more than 3 parts water to 1 part pva. other wise you end up with a skin of pva that the plaster is sticking to rather than the surface of the substrate and that actually makes the bond weaker. pva is primer to reduce suction not a glue to stick the plaster to the wall. good job otherwise.
@@stethompson1403 You're talking out of your arse, try skimming a painted ceiling go back to it and when you've picked up all the plaster that has fallen off the ceiling try it again but PVA the ceiling first and you will see.
I had a similar repair done. But the plasterer first used a lime cement render to fill in and match the original wall, then a two-coat plaster with the finish being a white coat
I notice that you have put in quote a bit if plaster into a deep chase. On the instructions for the gypsum it says to only do about a centimetre and layer it up in a couple of goes. Do we have to do layers? or is it Ok to add 2 or 3 centimetres of plaster at a time? Dies anyone know?
How long between each action? From light pva to concentrated pva, then to first start work. How long till the second code and how long till it hardens so it can be scored? I think you mentioned 20 mins to harden a but more timings will help.
Using a plastering trowel and start at bottom in a corner, and work out. Keeping same depth across and hatching it before dry, for your finishing plaster. Thanks
Thanks mate, saves is the job of cutting plaster board out to fit the whole and then dot n dabbing it only to the have to Skim over like I originally planned lol
is thistle hardwall better than thistle bonding plaster on brick walls??? and is it better to PVA the bricks before laying on the bonding plaster??? or can u just wet the bricks down with water??? thanks.
What is the purpose of the PVA? I am asking it because I can't find it in my country. I have an old house, and I removed all the old and damaged lime plaster from the walls, exposing the brick. Will this PVA help the new cement plaster bond better?
Yes, plasterers use it to bond coats.... we dilute it so it soakes in sealing a surface ready for painting... carpenters glue, school glue.. as long as its not waterproof PVA...... thanks
I really wouldn’t remove that wood in the way you do as it will likely do more damage to surrounding plaster. Liked the idea of using a magnet though, which I’d never thought of. Once the screws are located, you could have used a saw to cut either side and in that way, you could remove most of the wood very easily as it would only be held there by the plaster. Alternatively, you can use a circular cutter around the nail which then leaves the rest of the wood detached and easily removed. Thanks for sharing and not having a go! None of us are perfect.
I live in an old flat, and have a corner area up by the ceiling which was flooded a year ago. It's dried out now, I've removed the top layer of old plaster to reveal really crumbly old render. The upper corner where the two walls and ceiling cornice meet has a hole the size of a fist in it now. The old render layer is about 15mm in thickness. 1) Should I chisel out all of the old render in sight back to the brick and just use the hard wall undercoat plaster to fill it after the PVA? . 2) If I chisel out all the old render, I'll be left with a 10mm gap running vertical where the two walls joined. Should I re-render both walls and rebuild the corner in render, then plaster? Or is this something that can be done in the undercoat plaster in layers? Hard to explain without a photo!
@@PaintingandDecorating thanks for the reply! So asides from the hole, there are two large patches of exposed wall. about 1m x 1m. The render here is old and crumbling, really dusty. Should I chisel this all out and re-render, or should I seal it with PVA and simply plaster over the top of it in hard wall undercoat plaster, then put a finishing coat on top?
Hello again, as I mentioned I think your UA-cam is really helpful and after watching it I feel confident enough to do a small patch repair. I've bought a bag of Thistle bonding undercoat, Thistle Multi Finish, a hawk, small paint paddle for drill, a trowel and some PVA. The patch repair is on the corner of the wall above the door. I bought some mini angle bead, mesh to do the corner. I'm not sure how to do this so I was hoping you could give me a bit of advice? If you contact me on the email on my channel then I'll send you a couple of photos, so you can see what I don't understand. Thank you.
You need to attach the angle mesh to the corners, you can seal the brick and using a spirit level and some grab a adhesive fix the angles in place so they are horizontal or vertical. You can drill and screw or nail using non rusting fixings.
Hello again. I expect you know, but in case you don't.Instead of hacking plaster off with a bolster and hammer.Which will remove the plaster you want off but also the surrounding plaster can also crack up and work loose. Electricians use a small angle grinder with bag or I assume dust extraction port. It is called a chasing tool, has two adjustable blades on it. I assume can just use one, also can get a chasing tool which fits onto your electric drill.
You can but the filler is cheap and better to remove anything that is loose in a safe controlled manner . And if you're using anything mechanical make sure you know exact placement of wires or pipes.
do you have to use PVA? I thought it wasn't recommended for heritage buildings/ breathable lime wall systems as it's essentially a plastic layer. The lime in the plaster will 'suck' into the wall and bond instantly...
All the plasterers in the comments who think smearing paste on a wall and getting it smooth deserves a round of applause and is rocket science, get off your high horse, you’re only doing it cos you failed at school.
Good video. I've heard others say not to PVA hard wall, just use water, as it can cause problems with the bonding. Any thoughts? Have you ever used SBR?
Before the undercoat plaster is fully dry, you need to score it to give the finishing plaster something to key onto. In 2-3 days the stuff will be bone dry and will suck the life out of the skim coat so you'll need to PVA it first. You can do your undercoat plaster in the morning and skim it in the afternoon if it's only a patch repair.
Hi mate, I wonder if you can go help me?. I've fitted some rawl plug anchors (self screw metal plugs) and in both fittings I've fitted the plaster has crumbled . So I'm assuming I will need to pollyfilla the repair. My question is. Do I pollyfill and skim over with the anchor still left in the wall? Or take it out? If I take it and then Reinsert after I've pollfillered will I run the risk of it the plaster crumbling when the rawl plug self drive goes in again?
Self screw plugs? You don’t meant plasterboard screw plugs? In a solid wall you would use normal plugs and if the wall is crumbly, use a long enough plug to get to the brick. On a lathe and plaster wall you’ll need to find a stud. Also important to use a screw the correct dimensions for the plug. Too small and it won’t grip properly, too big and it will just break.
Hello Sir; I want to thank you so very much! I live in a very old building built in the early 60's and the walls were brick and sand filled as mortal. I could not get any plastering to stick because of the sandy dry bits. However, because of your professional treatment prior to applying the wall plaster I was able to take a crumbling wall and rebuild it to a beautiful strong and smooth wall that looks brand new, well it is brand new. Sir, I owe you so much for this lesson you have my utmost respect as a craftsman. I asked so many people at Lowes and Home depute to help me and they kept telling me to buy things that I didn't even need. Oh by the way, I am a 55 year old woman 56 next month and because of your amazing directions I saved a bundle and now I have an ability that I didn't have before I found this video. If you ever wonder if you are helping anyone let me tell you YES!!!!!!! YOU ARE. I TRULY APPRECIATE YOU SIR.
Thank you glad we can help... wonderful to hear you had a go and it was successful.
And now you too have inspired me
Nice video. To all the plasterers knocking this at least there is no plaster on the ceiling, woodwork, beams, floor, window sill, down the sink and drain. The bloody mess plasterers make is unbelievable yet they have a go at a guy doing a tidy job. And let's face it you wouldn't come out and do this anyway, well not for any reasonable price and no price is worth the mess you guys make.
@@taichpaul we aren't all messy mate. I take pride in being a clean plasterer
@@Trekz86 good.
Not all plasterers are like that...
@@taichpaul this guy ain't a plasterers by the way. Never seen a patch this small being done so slow and the way he holds the hawk to the wall is amateur. He did a good job for someone who I think isn't a plasterers
Thanks. I've never done any plastering before and this gave me the courage to have a go. And it turned out ok
Great news thank you glad we can help.
I have and made it bloody hard work... doing it all wrong. LOL
Just about to do some now.
Thanks to this video, should be a lot easier this time and a better result.
As a multi skilled joiner I’ve done quite a bit of plastering and patchwork learning from plasterers I’ve worked with and for a painter and decorator he done a mighty fine job! 👍
Would you know if I should treat old gypsym wall with something before repair and rendering with new gypsym for proper adhesion?
I heard some household chemical should be used, but forgot which...
(Not drywall, the house is very old and built only from solid gypsum and natural rocks)
you kidding me.... he looked like he never held a float before
We had huge chunks of plaster fall off when we had an old sink and loo cistern removed. Thanks to your video I went out and bought the right tools and I gave it a go. It's not perfect by any means but I'm chuffed with the result!
Very honest and straightfoward instruction. My thanks to you and your team. Many ahppy returns from the USA.
Looks good to me.... decorating myself 20+ years....I'd go through the process....thanks for the video
Cheers mate.
Thanks for the great video...just the right length and speed of the tutorial throughout. Great job explaining all of the required steps and the reason for each step in the repair process. Well done! I have recently purchased a 200 year old home in Virginia, USA which needs quite a lot a plaster repair. I have subscribed and will refer to your channel regularly as I complete the repairs to Carter Hall. Thanks again!
Thank you.
Hey, do and brew, how about a cross-pond exchange program? Share ideas, techniques and terminology?
I've watched a couple of your videos on how to plaster and I appreciate the time that you've taken 2 show these tricks you've learned. Thank you God bless
Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, will help me greatly with some patch work in my bathroom
Thank you sir--wonderful to see a modern pro knowledgeable of old techniques.
Thank you.
I think this UA-cam is really helpful, has made the process much clearer.
Thank you.
You've just given me the confidence to take on a similar job... Thank you very much, a great tutorial video 👏👏👏
Your welcome.
Tip....when using a crowbar, put a flat piece of wood against the wall first and lever against that....the crowbar doesn't then dig into the wall
Nah it can still dig in
@@tauntonlad if you don't know what your talking about, be humble and silent and learn from people.. Been a smart ass is not a trade
@@tauntonlad You two lovers crack on doing it wrong, don't involve others
@@tauntonlad Its your mummy calling me. Thanking me for a good time
@@tauntonlad byeeeee ❤
the way of holding the hawk to the wall is a great example, cheers for that ...
Good on you for knocking those old nails over. Surprising how many people just throw old timber with nails sticking out on the floor waiting for someone to stand on them !
Thanks always safety first.
I got to be honest, I live in an old Victorian house and every time I decorate I have to do similar jobs. My heart sinks every time I remove wallpaper. 🤪
It's worth spending the time and doing things right and it will last for years.
I have the same. I'll probably catch the plague from 114-year-old plaster dust...
any victorian messages written on the walls? I'd leave them on, and add my own, with date.
@@MrDaiseymay what like. He bled here...
@@MrDaiseymay DONT BLINK!
So... Procedure, patience, product and timing.
Excellent
Thanks.
Thanks for this. Gave me the confidence to have a go and it turned out ok.
Well I have my mask ready, just need to buy everything else for the job 😂
Excellent, thank you for such a clear and informative video. I'm especially impressed that you completed it with tool cleaning advice at the end.
I've seen "professionals" throwing plaster water down drains before. 🤦🏻♂️
Bravo Sir. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you, thanks for watching.
@@PaintingandDecorating this video has given me the knowledge and confidence to tackle a similar but larger "small job" at home. 👍
This is the exact damage i need to fix! Thank you
Wonderful! Always learning from you!
Thank you for sharing!
Great skill. I’ll give it ago but I think it’s going to end in tears.
By eck lad, tha knows how fix things to walls in them days. That coat hanger was built to last.😀
Great vid. All the Eddie the Experts who criticise... bollox to you.
Thank you.
No nonsense guy, first normal video about plaster this week.
Cheers
That’s how they used to do it in the old days , nail it to wooden wedges in the brick , then skim up to it , same with architraves and skirtings and picture rails , no need for caulk , good job as it wasn’t invented.
I consider buying a bucket trowel for loading your float. They're really good for getting plaster neatly out of bucketand less messy.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
New subscriber here from Philadelphia PA
Hi thanks for subscribing welcome to the channel....
Really good video 👍makes it look like with some practise anyone can have a go
Thank you, yes totally just practice in a small area.
Mad technique with the hawk and trowel but great result and video 👌
a nice clean job looking forwad to the room when is finshed loved the video.
Thanks.
Pueopdjlyirot. Irx
ha ha haaa!!!!!!! finished 90% of my plastering ,thanks for this video,helped a lot...cost a tenner for a bag of multi finish?i used a no.3 spatula from the kitchen and an old enamel bowl i had lying around (i can hear all the plasterers having a hissy fit ) worked a treat....thanks again ...to the bloke who said the whole wall needs skimming,it's a fucking old house,if it's not falling off,leave well alone,,cheers lads p.s. it helps if you play a bit of tom waits
Good example for a noob like me about to try for the first time! Thanks
Thanks.
Good video to watch and the end resault was very good to be fair. Im guessing the walls were going to be wallpaped so in my opinon it didnt need a plasterer to come in and do this job when it could of been done by yourself. Good job
Thanks and yes walls got papered.
Thats good i was looking at them and thought your be filling ages or going to get them skimmed.
Really useful video for an mature like myself. Concise instruction. Thanks
Great job 👍
another great video please keep uploading 👍
Shades of Fred Dibner. Good gear
A lot of us decent decorator's would have probably made good plasterers, I couldn't count the amount of times where I've had to repair damaged walls sometimes full walls as well good job Sir as allways
Thank you.
Thanks man. Filling some chases. Found this really useful. Happy New Year.
Thank you... Happy New Year
Love your work mate 👍🏻
Thank you.
Painting and Decorating where are you based? That sounds like a northern accent of some kind.
@@wez9943 sorry no details.
Painting and Decorating no problem. It’s hard to find quality tradesmen that take pride in their work so was hoping you may be local.
No problem though, completely understand. 👍🏻
Good video for anyone needing to do this at home who hasn't got another £200 for a plasterer. You should show people what happens when PVA isn't used at all, just to force home the message. :-)
what happens??
@@suetheron4495 the existing wall will suck the water out of your new plaster. You'll come back later and see plaster powder, not hard plaster. Never skip thoroughly wetting the wall. Just follow what this guy does and you'll be OK
@@hpt08 hi HP Im applying this to my own 1927 house with clay bricks, and am skipping the PVA. The fact that the wall sucks the moisture out of the plaster, is part of what makes it stick, because it also sucks the lime compounds into its matrix. Im throughly spraying the wall before applying any lime plaster, and spraying lightly after application. So far so good, no cracking and strong as anything, not powdery. I have to admit, getting the right mix has been tricky (soaking hydrated lime, mixing with gymsum hard plaster, roughly 1:1 ratio by weight). This guy appears to be using a different product. I would like to emulate his ability to achieve a smooth blemish-free surface, but my patches are larger and more difficult to achieve this atm
Excellent work, very well explained.
Thank you
looks really nice good job
Thanks.
He's done nothing wrong here personally. I'm a bit better with the trowel though... the trick to troweling is confidence. Get it on the wall and don't piss about
You are amazing. Thank you for this.
In this job you have turn your hand to loads of stuff. I’d love to see all the armchair plasterers start their own channels. Then you tell them how sh*t they are at painting. Bunch of muppets!
Great video. Good work ethic. Thank you!
Thank you.
I think he did a fine job
me to
.pva as a primer should never be applied at more than 3 parts water to 1 part pva. other wise you end up with a skin of pva that the plaster is sticking to rather than the surface of the substrate and that actually makes the bond weaker. pva is primer to reduce suction not a glue to stick the plaster to the wall. good job otherwise.
Edd Jordan thank you nice Information and explaining 👍
Pva only stops it from drying quick....fucking amutures !!!!!
Ste Thompson if you think that your a noob
You could also just wet the bricks first, to slow down the drying of the plaster. Then you don't need ant bonding agent
@@stethompson1403 You're talking out of your arse, try skimming a painted ceiling go back to it and when you've picked up all the plaster that has fallen off the ceiling try it again but PVA the ceiling first and you will see.
can't believe the negative comments. for you, bare-arsed plasters had one of this chaps skills you would explode...
well said old boy,lets hope they all get another skill,i'm thinking maybe we should have a purge day on plasterers
Good job!
I had a similar repair done. But the plasterer first used a lime cement render to fill in and match the original wall, then a two-coat plaster with the finish being a white coat
Superb video many thanks :)
I can tell you’re not a spread but you did a tidy job 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 well done
Cheers mate.
Good work mate
Tez Joe cheers mate.
Nice job
Thank you.
Oof that was a bit brutal with the crowbar, but still thanks for this video; thumbs up.
Thanks... best to get stuck in... whats coming off will come off anyway... best to remove loose get to a sound edge.
Not a bad job there mate 🙂
Thank you.
I notice that you have put in quote a bit if plaster into a deep chase. On the instructions for the gypsum it says to only do about a centimetre and layer it up in a couple of goes.
Do we have to do layers? or is it Ok to add 2 or 3 centimetres of plaster at a time?
Dies anyone know?
The small area is not too bad working like this. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating cheers
Wouldn't you need to tap around the patch to check for surrounding hollow render also and remove aswell? Nice job though, nice finish.
Hello from the future. Whilst there is a temptation to do this you can quickly end up with a hole much, much bigger than you started with.
@@gordonm2821 Wow, this was 4 years ago, I can’t remember even commenting on this 😂. I see what you mean tho, you could well be right 👍👍
Great stuff. Mending the stairs wall next week.
If you have a few days between hardwall (base coat) and the final coats, would you recommend pva the hardwall to reduce fast suction?
Yes but very diluted so it soaks in. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating 50/50 Mix?
Good video
How long between each action? From light pva to concentrated pva, then to first start work. How long till the second code and how long till it hardens so it can be scored? I think you mentioned 20 mins to harden a but more timings will help.
Looks good thanks
Thank you.
Good morning, How will you cover a large area with this undercoat plaster.
Using a plastering trowel and start at bottom in a corner, and work out. Keeping same depth across and hatching it before dry, for your finishing plaster. Thanks
Very helpful. Thanks!!
Cheers mate watching this has tipped me giving it a go , trying to help a friend out with jobs . Is it okay to tile on to plaster?
Yes, follow the instructions on your tile adhesive. Thanks
this bloke knows what he's doing.
Thank you.
lol no he doesn't, this was painful to watch
@@politicalmudpit6792 certainly not a plastering masterclass but he didn't claim it to be.
Really helpful, would you recommend any extra steps to do this in a bathroom?
If the repair that needs done is deeper than that, should I use 2 coats of bonding? Then put the Skim on top?
Yes or two top coats depends on your depth.. thanks
Thanks mate, saves is the job of cutting plaster board out to fit the whole and then dot n dabbing it only to the have to Skim over like I originally planned lol
is thistle hardwall better than thistle bonding plaster on brick walls???
and is it better to PVA the bricks before laying on the bonding plaster???
or can u just wet the bricks down with water???
thanks.
What is the purpose of the PVA? I am asking it because I can't find it in my country. I have an old house, and I removed all the old and damaged lime plaster from the walls, exposing the brick. Will this PVA help the new cement plaster bond better?
Yes, plasterers use it to bond coats.... we dilute it so it soakes in sealing a surface ready for painting... carpenters glue, school glue.. as long as its not waterproof PVA...... thanks
I really wouldn’t remove that wood in the way you do as it will likely do more damage to surrounding plaster. Liked the idea of using a magnet though, which I’d never thought of.
Once the screws are located, you could have used a saw to cut either side and in that way, you could remove most of the wood very easily as it would only be held there by the plaster. Alternatively, you can use a circular cutter around the nail which then leaves the rest of the wood detached and easily removed.
Thanks for sharing and not having a go! None of us are perfect.
No worries, times money and a little extra filling is nothing. Thanks
Thank you for this!!! Swriuosly!!! 😌🙏
Stick to the painting and decorating your trowel skills make me feel like smashing my head of every wall in my house
But at least you'll be able to repair them! 😊
@@valhollylee8422 what with ? motar ?
Really helpful cheers
Thanks.
I live in an old flat, and have a corner area up by the ceiling which was flooded a year ago. It's dried out now, I've removed the top layer of old plaster to reveal really crumbly old render. The upper corner where the two walls and ceiling cornice meet has a hole the size of a fist in it now. The old render layer is about 15mm in thickness. 1) Should I chisel out all of the old render in sight back to the brick and just use the hard wall undercoat plaster to fill it after the PVA? . 2) If I chisel out all the old render, I'll be left with a 10mm gap running vertical where the two walls joined. Should I re-render both walls and rebuild the corner in render, then plaster? Or is this something that can be done in the undercoat plaster in layers?
Hard to explain without a photo!
You can use expanding foam to fill the gaps first.. this can be plastered over.. and also helps with insulation... Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating thanks for the reply! So asides from the hole, there are two large patches of exposed wall. about 1m x 1m. The render here is old and crumbling, really dusty. Should I chisel this all out and re-render, or should I seal it with PVA and simply plaster over the top of it in hard wall undercoat plaster, then put a finishing coat on top?
Hello again, as I mentioned I think your UA-cam is really helpful and after watching it I feel confident enough to do a small patch repair. I've bought a bag of Thistle bonding undercoat, Thistle Multi Finish, a hawk, small paint paddle for drill, a trowel and some PVA. The patch repair is on the corner of the wall above the door. I bought some mini angle bead, mesh to do the corner. I'm not sure how to do this so I was hoping you could give me a bit of advice? If you contact me on the email on my channel then I'll send you a couple of photos, so you can see what I don't understand.
Thank you.
You need to attach the angle mesh to the corners, you can seal the brick and using a spirit level and some grab a adhesive fix the angles in place so they are horizontal or vertical. You can drill and screw or nail using non rusting fixings.
Hello again.
I expect you know, but in case you don't.Instead of hacking plaster off with a bolster and hammer.Which will remove the plaster you want off but also the surrounding plaster can also crack up and work loose. Electricians use a small angle grinder with bag or I assume dust extraction port. It is called a chasing tool, has two adjustable blades on it. I assume can just use one, also can get a chasing tool which fits onto your electric drill.
You can but the filler is cheap and better to remove anything that is loose in a safe controlled manner . And if you're using anything mechanical make sure you know exact placement of wires or pipes.
do you have to use PVA? I thought it wasn't recommended for heritage buildings/ breathable lime wall systems as it's essentially a plastic layer. The lime in the plaster will 'suck' into the wall and bond instantly...
It's not heritage is just brick that needs plastering. Look up what plasters use to bond before applying undercoat plaster. PVA is not plastic.
All the plasterers in the comments who think smearing paste on a wall and getting it smooth deserves a round of applause and is rocket science, get off your high horse, you’re only doing it cos you failed at school.
You've gave me the biggest laughter in a long while 🤣
I think I would have skimmed the whole wall looking at the state of it!
great job man
Thanks.
nice
Good video. I've heard others say not to PVA hard wall, just use water, as it can cause problems with the bonding. Any thoughts? Have you ever used SBR?
so if a patch is too deep I need to score before applying a finnish coat? Allowing the excess at the back to dry proper?
Before the undercoat plaster is fully dry, you need to score it to give the finishing plaster something to key onto. In 2-3 days the stuff will be bone dry and will suck the life out of the skim coat so you'll need to PVA it first. You can do your undercoat plaster in the morning and skim it in the afternoon if it's only a patch repair.
Use a magnet to find nails.
So if you have a spot we’re there is nothing left in a corner , you just fill it with plaster and then do a skim coat to make it perfect at the end?
Good Job
"Bit of filling to do" as he removed the entire wall with dusting brush 🤣
🤣🤣🤣
I see you put foam in some of the gaps
Good tips. Thanks.
thanks
Well done sir, I have a slight larger area to cover but will use this principal 👍🏼
Thank you.
Hi mate, I wonder if you can go help me?. I've fitted some rawl plug anchors (self screw metal plugs) and in both fittings I've fitted the plaster has crumbled . So I'm assuming I will need to pollyfilla the repair. My question is. Do I pollyfill and skim over with the anchor still left in the wall? Or take it out? If I take it and then Reinsert after I've pollfillered will I run the risk of it the plaster crumbling when the rawl plug self drive goes in again?
Hi hopefully this video will help ua-cam.com/video/u_uG-yjzQjw/v-deo.html
Self screw plugs? You don’t meant plasterboard screw plugs? In a solid wall you would use normal plugs and if the wall is crumbly, use a long enough plug to get to the brick. On a lathe and plaster wall you’ll need to find a stud. Also important to use a screw the correct dimensions for the plug. Too small and it won’t grip properly, too big and it will just break.
thanks for sharing pal!