Finally a good explanation by a subject matter expert. Subscribed to your channel for this video alone. Not sure I’ll need to watch any other of your videos. But you definitely deserve the subscribe for being clear, concise and honest.
Great video! Currently in 2023, the highest Safe rating is TXTL 60x6 - 1 hour of tool, torch, and explosives protection on all six sides! The Israeli company ISM Safes offers safes with TXTL 60x6 Rating!
100% novice here. I thought a Sentry home "safe" was good enough, not knowing the different levels of safes existed. I'm so grateful you've taken the time to help open the eyes of people like myself. Now I've gotten enough information to make an informed decision or at least be aware of what I need to learn more about. Thanks for your effort and time!
Century safes to make a great decoy safes! 🤣Put some random stuff in it and lock it up and robbers will be messing with that instead of looking for your real safe. Your real safe should also be completely hidden if possible behind a fake wall, perhaps. 😗
i was given a trtl30x6 for the cost of the flatbed to bring it here 150 bucks. this thing is bigger than the refrigerator its parked next to,damn thing had to be pushed in the garage with the flat bed while on a hand truck dolly and still crushed the tiles under 1 inch plywood. what a beast. good to know i got a good one
I imagine many locksmiths can make safes even more secure - I like the idea of adding a Badger relocking device with the Phosgene gas option to keep everyday safecracker out. I wonder what the lead time is these days?
Hey Robert, thank you for your insight and really WELL done videos! Back in the day (about 5 years ago) when I needed to work on a security evaluation where it was also necessary to compare the German VDS certifications for safes with the American ones, your video would have really helped me to get into it! At least on a high level. However after months of digging into your certifications and standards I sort of came to the conclusion that only the UL ratings can be compared with the ones from the VDS even though they are still different. One correction however it is The TRTL-30 or TRTL-60 and TXTL 60. I actually have seen a TXTL 60 safe and it was a MONSTER! Those can only be compared with VDS KBX 6 rated safes or the older D20 and E1/E10 rated safes! Oh and funny that you have that little Burg Wächter in your store :P the right translation is "Castle Guard" by the way :) Best wishes and please keep em coming! Your Germany buddy, Adrian (PS: I really like Graffunder Safes, they are extremely well built, would you agree?)
Thanks for the good preview,you definitely know your safes. I've delivered probably a thousand gun safes in my day. I remember moving a safe with concrete in the walls also had tear gas ampules in the concrete. Last time I moved one of those,had the small hole in the top where the dial was. The guy actually gave it to me,he was going out of business. I took it to a thrift store didn't want to mess with it. I'm getting to old to mess with that heavy stuff anymore. You probably know what I mean.
I have a b rated safe that has 1/2 inch steel plate on body and doors, and the thing weighs over 320 pounds and I’m satisfied. The safes about 24” high, and about 16” wide and deep.
@@28_babyshark It's the burglary rating you want to keep in mind. Most manufactures sell low-end to high-end safes because not everyone can afford a high-end safe.
If you have no other info go by the weight. Steel is heavy composite concrete carbide tungsten amalgam is heavy. Salesman can talk up all kinds of features but weight is weight. A 18” safe that weighs over 400 lbs is a good indicator of decent quality. The one he was showing was even heavier.
You should explain that the 5 minute RSC rating is work time. That means the clock starts only when he is working on it. He can stop and go get other tools or do research. The 5 minute could take all day, or all week
Great video as always. Quick question.... I have noticed on the 500ish range, safes from Hollon and Steel water look identical. For example: Hollon HS310e and Steelwater 310. Is there a difference? Or they are the same company? Which one would you recommend?
Companies could use the same manufacturer and then customize it (add steel, lock type, bolt work, relockers, etc...). On the low end, there's very little that can be done besides paint. If it looks identical, it could be from the same factory.
Great information. In addition to break-in proof, I am concerned about the fire resistance of safes. I have seen important documents in a friend's safe get roasted into Egyptian parchment and guns turned into skeletons of rust. Can you go into that a little bit?
2 years late but the best thing you can do for documents is keep them inside a second small fire safe or fire bag inside of the bigger safe. It's really hard for a safe to protect documents in an fire since they are damaged at low temperatures.
@LocksmithRecommended ok.. non door protection is a big mystery in the industry then.. UL should go to all X6 ratings or nothing.. to include TL15x6 also.
It depends on your concerns. Once the safe is heavy enough so that a standard dolly won't handle the weight you're pretty safe it'll stay in place from an standard break-in / robbery attempt. But if you're a jewelry store or something, where someone would go in specifically targeting the safe, there are special dollies that can handle the weight, and it's best to bolt down.
I much prefer the British / EU manner of rating safes by how great a value an insurance company will cover. That is, a safe whose contents can be insured for $100,000 is a better safe than one that will be insured for only $20000. Theft is not the only risk. Fire is a separate risk. The safe is worthless if an ordinary house fire destroys the contents (such as currency and documents). Fire ratings are distinct and separate from the burglary ratings. Finally, a caution: many safes have only the lock certified. The safe itself has never been certified. Nor are “cast in place” safes - be they the money drop at the local store, or the vault at your bank. Such structures may have rated doors / hatches, but the structure itself relies upon the construction crew.
😂 You're the third person to ask me about that little safe. But for a little safe it is a bit spendy, especially after shipping. 1/4 inch steel body with 1/2 steel door. PM me on Facebook. facebook.com/AcmeLocksmith
I just did a channel search for "Baron" on your channel and there's no results? You should review this little guy!!!! A ton of people are looking for a safe that will hold a few watches, rings, and a hard drive.
@ACME Locksmith I have a question about the insurance/cash rating of safes. I have a collection of items that is probably not worth more than $50k, but it would be very difficult for me to replace them, even if my insurance company would cover them (which it won't). The cash rating system I've seen would have me using a C-rated container (I have an alarm system). However, the last time I called the police (emergency situation - someone got shot in front of my house), their response time was over 30 minutes, so I wouldn't think that anything less than a TL-30x6 would be able to provide assurance that my items are protected. However, this type of safe would cost me over 20% the value of its contents and the cash rating of $500k seems to suggest it would be overkill. Still, the peace of mind of an overbuilt safe is tempting. What would your instinct be in my situation?
Security cost money there's no doubt. If they are irreplaceable items get a good safe. A BIG TL 30x6 will be under $10k. If that's still too much then consider a standard TL 30.
We see them both fail. Check out our article discussing each at www.acmelocksmith.com/blog/digital-safe-locks-vs-mechanical-safe-lock/ . Still torn, get a duel lock that does both! :')
Hi, arent better the trezors with hardware/trezor key? Im affraid that those with electronics cant last more than 10 years and I also heard of many cases when the numbers got broken or were facing another problem with electronics. What do you think? Im thinking of buying some, but want something long term reliable (20 years).
Modern safe locks on high-end safes (not the cheapies) can have the faceplate replaced if the keypad fails. You just swap them out and you get right in. The access code is stored on a chip inside the safe.
No. For proofing is usually done with fire board or some other composite. The ones that use a cement slurry could slow some people down, but they don't market it that way so there's no data on it.
We'll ship one to you curbside at no cost. You'll find most online vendors will do the same. Installation charges will depend entirely on your area. But since my company is in Phoenix, I am only familiar with the rates in that area. Here's our website if interested. www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/90-minute-fire-rated-gun-safes.html
@@LocksmithRecommended much appreciated, but I do want it installed/bolted down. Back to my original question, how much is a reasonable price for the product, delivery and installation etc?
@@grapevinelover1 Using that link, you can see our prices for installation in the Phoenix area. Depending on COL where you're at, it may be more or less.
Get a great tl rated safe and is it not only as good as what you bolt it down with? I don’t care how much time it takes to breach if they pop it up and carry it away. Am I missing something?
Thanks for watching! A great TL safe is going to weigh well near 1,000 lbs for the small ones. It's extremely hard to move them because they are small and you can't use leverage. Bigger ones can weigh 3,000 lbs +. Nothing wrong with bolting them down though when the holes to do so are present.
Why do people love that guy? All he does is compromise your security by telling people how to bypass the locks you have protecting your home and property? I don't get it. Luckily, so far, people with the knowledge of how to open safes professionally are protecting that knowledge.
@@LocksmithRecommended Because it's fun to watch what are marketed as supposedly impenetrable locks opened faster than you can with a key and it advances lock sport in the public eye as being legitimate rather than the purview of criminals and shady government organizations. It also educates the public on what is a bad versus a good lock; the average person has zero idea of what quality actually is and will buy something that is easily bypassed. His videos put pressure on lock companies to up their game and expose shoddily made locks that can be an extreme danger for the intended user. For example, many of the small lockers being sold as gun safes for around $200 are laughably easy to bypass, but the average person does not know this. They buy it and put their gun in it, thinking it is safe but the mechanism is bypassed in a robbery or by a friend of your teenage child and someone could be killed with that gun. The only thing gate keeping does is inhibit the education and advancement of the subject it pretends to "protect" and in today's age, that "protection" is very difficult to do. Science does not advance by one person holding onto the secrets; rather the rapid advance in technology is through a collaboration of ideas. I'd personally love to see a RSC-grade lock manipulated to see what makes a good safe lock good.
Those are garbage safes. A real safe is made of high quality materials and costs a pretty penny. 95% of ‘safes’ sold are trash. Do your research. This was a great video.
Stihl ts800 saw would make short work of getting one open. All a safe does is to buy the owner time to protect thier valuables. The more expensive the safe the more time you are buying.
That may be true, but who the hell has a thermic lance in their back pocket! Certainly not your run of the mill bad guy. Any safe can be broken in to with the right tools and an abundance of time.
@@jasonlommen4769 Yes and it also depends on what you're protecting, a thermic lance will destroy the contents unless they are extremely heat tolerant. Guns, money and documents, won't survive a thermal attack.
3:27 - I think the following point you make is too little known and not talked about enough. The best security still works even when an attacker knows EXACTLY how it works, and exactly what its weaknesses are and is able to attack them directly. Security through obscurity is no security at all.
My personal favorite: I think it was Prince's safe after he died, they had to break in. It had a pocket inside the locking mechanism of ball bearings that then you drilled into this pocket, they jam and grab and break the drill bit. Genius!
I always thought it would be a good idea to incorporate electronics as well as hardware in a safe. Like alarms, deterrents such as cs gas release and things of that nature. Maybe something like a intricate dynamic locking mechanism and reinforcement application apon detection of an attack.
I've asked a manufacturer to send a sample of a safe alarm kit. When placed inside the safe it will notify you on your phone when it is opened or shaken. Seems like it could be a nifty little product.
I understand all safe ratings except 1. B rating. It's seems to be a loosely used term. The safest safe in the world is going to be something like a TRTL 60x6. They are torch proof and you can store millions in jewelry which can be insured. It's virtually the closest thing to being impenetrable.
There used to be a real thing as a B-rated safe. But that term hasn't meant anything for years. Nowadays it's basically just when a manufacturer enhances their product with extra, beneficial security features. The "burglary safes" give manufacturers a chance to put out a more secure product without having to pay for a UL rating. There are some very good burglary safes out there.
@@WobblinGoblin1 That use to be the definition of it. And insurance companies will still refer to a "B-rated" safe as one that has the characteristics you mention. But it's not a UL rating. It's just a construction rating. The exact definition of it today is: Steel doors less than 1″ thick and steel body less than 1/2″ thick. Which is basically meaningless.
I’m still thinking about either the Burg watcher safe or the American security BF series BF1512 or maybe the BF 2116 I will bolt which ever one I buy either into the wooden floor or cut the wooden floor between the joists and pour some sack Crete and come up between the joists with cement and secure the safe that way,,,the bfs am sec safes look good,,, in fact they look really good they look great but they’re cheap price scares me a little,,,idk,,,looks like you get a lot for your money feature wise on the BFS including a half inch thick door and inner and outer walls of 11 gauge steel
Get yourself a 1 " or even an 1/2 ( half) inch plate steel all side box (safe), and bolt it down into commercial grade high psi concrete re-barred of course using (commercial-grade 8 bolts). Use 4 bolts if the safe is holed that way on its deck. Going with an 1" or 1/2 inch box will not warp even if trying to pry it off the floor unless the thief is using a fork lift, not even a a pallet jack can warp or pry open from the floor. Be sure the retractable bolts on the door are within at least 1/2" or more encasement to defeat prying attacks on the door, and have bolts on all 4 sides of the door. Go with the glass re-lockers on your locks, and you have to decide if want a traditional rotating combo lock (non electronic) or a various great electronic locks (if your using it frequently)which you can find some (EMP) - resistant locks like S & G or LP. If you come across a box that have a door with bolts on all 4 sides but the encasement that houses the bolts aren't as thick, you can always beef that area up with some welding more steel onto it or even welding some re-bar to it will work, and if you can't weld, most safe doors can come off once the door is opened from the safe box, just bring the box to a welding shop with the specs you want done to it. NYC area have a lot good safes for sale considering all the merchants of precious metals and jewelry in that city.
You've a really great salesman. I'll give you that. RSC rating "..one man using common tools you can get at any hardware store.." Now you've not telling the whole truth are you? What tools and is the attack only on the door? Viewers, do your research. He's a salesman and watcher, beware.
![[1584] Diebold 175-70 Safe Deposit Lock](/img/n.gif)
Finally a good explanation by a subject matter expert. Subscribed to your channel for this video alone. Not sure I’ll need to watch any other of your videos. But you definitely deserve the subscribe for being clear, concise and honest.
Thank you.
great video, i like whe you said, "Safes are like parachutes, you know you need one you don't want to go cheep!"
Thanks for watching!
I've jumped a LOT of cheap parachutes and they all work but not as fun to fly... :D
@@docrw interesting
Great video! Currently in 2023, the highest Safe rating is TXTL 60x6 - 1 hour of tool, torch, and explosives protection on all six sides!
The Israeli company ISM Safes offers safes with TXTL 60x6 Rating!
100% novice here. I thought a Sentry home "safe" was good enough, not knowing the different levels of safes existed. I'm so grateful you've taken the time to help open the eyes of people like myself. Now I've gotten enough information to make an informed decision or at least be aware of what I need to learn more about. Thanks for your effort and time!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
Century safes to make a great decoy safes! 🤣Put some random stuff in it and lock it up and robbers will be messing with that instead of looking for your real safe. Your real safe should also be completely hidden if possible behind a fake wall, perhaps. 😗
i was given a trtl30x6 for the cost of the flatbed to bring it here 150 bucks. this thing is bigger than the refrigerator its parked next to,damn thing had to be pushed in the garage with the flat bed while on a hand truck dolly and still crushed the tiles under 1 inch plywood. what a beast.
good to know i got a good one
You got a GREAT one!
I work as a locksmith thank you very much for the explanation of this
My pleasure!👍
I imagine many locksmiths can make safes even more secure - I like the idea of adding a Badger relocking device with the Phosgene gas option to keep everyday safecracker out. I wonder what the lead time is these days?
Superb video. Answered a lot of questions that I’ve had. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Robert, thank you for your insight and really WELL done videos! Back in the day (about 5 years ago) when I needed to work on a security evaluation where it was also necessary to compare the German VDS certifications for safes with the American ones, your video would have really helped me to get into it! At least on a high level. However after months of digging into your certifications and standards I sort of came to the conclusion that only the UL ratings can be compared with the ones from the VDS even though they are still different. One correction however it is The TRTL-30 or TRTL-60 and TXTL 60. I actually have seen a TXTL 60 safe and it was a MONSTER! Those can only be compared with VDS KBX 6 rated safes or the older D20 and E1/E10 rated safes! Oh and funny that you have that little Burg Wächter in your store :P the right translation is "Castle Guard" by the way :) Best wishes and please keep em coming! Your Germany buddy, Adrian (PS: I really like Graffunder Safes, they are extremely well built, would you agree?)
Great post! Thank you for the feedback!
Thanks for the good preview,you definitely know your safes. I've delivered probably a thousand gun safes in my day. I remember moving a safe with concrete in the walls also had tear gas ampules in the concrete. Last time I moved one of those,had the small hole in the top where the dial was. The guy actually gave it to me,he was going out of business. I took it to a thrift store didn't want to mess with it. I'm getting to old to mess with that heavy stuff anymore. You probably know what I mean.
VERY interesting. Clear and understandable...thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I have a b rated safe that has 1/2 inch steel plate on body and doors, and the thing weighs over 320 pounds and I’m satisfied. The safes about 24” high, and about 16” wide and deep.
Your videos are fabulous. I've learned immeasurably from you, Sir.
The TXTL-60X6 is technically the highest rated UL safe. ISM makes it and it’s called the Super Diamond!
Thanks!
Thanks for this video, and simplifying the difference in the ratings.
Glad it was helpful!
@@LocksmithRecommended May you do a video on different brands that will most likely defeat any house breaking?
@@28_babyshark It's the burglary rating you want to keep in mind. Most manufactures sell low-end to high-end safes because not everyone can afford a high-end safe.
Excellent video and thank you !
Thanks! 🙂
If you have no other info go by the weight. Steel is heavy composite concrete carbide tungsten amalgam is heavy. Salesman can talk up all kinds of features but weight is weight. A 18” safe that weighs over 400 lbs is a good indicator of decent quality. The one he was showing was even heavier.
Agreed. Have you seen our video on Top Features of Safes? ua-cam.com/video/1X85oZ38NOw/v-deo.html
You should explain that the 5 minute RSC rating is work time. That means the clock starts only when he is working on it. He can stop and go get other tools or do research. The 5 minute could take all day, or all week
Very true. I thought I hit that. Sorry.
Brilliant video, I just bought a medium/ large safe for my bedroom, I need to sort a cover out for it as its on show though
So all I need to open the first safe is a 31 feet ladder?
Thank you. It does get confusing
Great video as always. Quick question.... I have noticed on the 500ish range, safes from Hollon and Steel water look identical. For example: Hollon HS310e and Steelwater 310. Is there a difference? Or they are the same company? Which one would you recommend?
Companies could use the same manufacturer and then customize it (add steel, lock type, bolt work, relockers, etc...). On the low end, there's very little that can be done besides paint. If it looks identical, it could be from the same factory.
Excellent video. Very few safes out there are TL15. You have any links to them? Box stores barely meet any standards.
Here's everything on our site RSC2 and better.
www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/everything.html?burglar_rating=5443%2C5444%2C5445
@@LocksmithRecommended thank you sir. I appreciate your time and video.
Great video. Very informative and interesting. New subscriber
So informative! Now I just wish I had something to put in one of these bad boys to justify the purchase lol
Thanks!
Great information. In addition to break-in proof, I am concerned about the fire resistance of safes. I have seen important documents in a friend's safe get roasted into Egyptian parchment and guns turned into skeletons of rust. Can you go into that a little bit?
We are going to create a video on that soon.
2 years late but the best thing you can do for documents is keep them inside a second small fire safe or fire bag inside of the bigger safe. It's really hard for a safe to protect documents in an fire since they are damaged at low temperatures.
Very good info. Thank you
Very welcome
Do TL30 (non x6) safes have like TL15 sides or what?
All safe ratings are achieved through the door. There are no side ratings until you get to the X6.
@LocksmithRecommended ok.. non door protection is a big mystery in the industry then.. UL should go to all X6 ratings or nothing.. to include TL15x6 also.
What do you think of the Gardall H2 -G-C safe?
We don't sell them, so I can't really say. When in doubt look at two of the same size safes, the heavier one wins.
For these highly rated safes even when they weigh a thousand pounds, do they still need to be screwed into the wall or floor?
It depends on your concerns. Once the safe is heavy enough so that a standard dolly won't handle the weight you're pretty safe it'll stay in place from an standard break-in / robbery attempt. But if you're a jewelry store or something, where someone would go in specifically targeting the safe, there are special dollies that can handle the weight, and it's best to bolt down.
What aboutthe silly neodymium magnet openable safes, have they been recalled?
The better question is how many safes can be opened with that magnet can a stealth safe be open with a magnet or a Burg?or a Hollon?
I much prefer the British / EU manner of rating safes by how great a value an insurance company will cover. That is, a safe whose contents can be insured for $100,000 is a better safe than one that will be insured for only $20000.
Theft is not the only risk. Fire is a separate risk. The safe is worthless if an ordinary house fire destroys the contents (such as currency and documents). Fire ratings are distinct and separate from the burglary ratings.
Finally, a caution: many safes have only the lock certified. The safe itself has never been certified. Nor are “cast in place” safes - be they the money drop at the local store, or the vault at your bank. Such structures may have rated doors / hatches, but the structure itself relies upon the construction crew.
Can rare earth magnets be used to access these safes?
“I’m Robert with ACME Locksmith, and you’re watching Disney Channel.”
Great video btw haha
🤷♂️🙂
They make TLTR and TXTR-60x6 safes
Is the am sec bf 1512 a rsc 2 rated safe
It's the standard RSC. www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/bf1512.html
Great video! My biggest thing is are they cut proof? They will cut in the top and side.
To the extent of the burglary rating, yes.
Can you put the lock picking layer in front of the safe
Does the burg watcher safes have 10 gauge steel walls inner and outer walls of 10 gauge steel and a half inch thick steel plate?
I am not sure the gauge of their steel. But it is the equivalent to a US RSC rating.
I want to buy the little safe on top of the big one for my truck. How do I do that.
😂 You're the third person to ask me about that little safe. But for a little safe it is a bit spendy, especially after shipping. 1/4 inch steel body with 1/2 steel door. PM me on Facebook. facebook.com/AcmeLocksmith
I just did a channel search for "Baron" on your channel and there's no results?
You should review this little guy!!!! A ton of people are looking for a safe that will hold a few watches, rings, and a hard drive.
@@DJNuckChorris I like the way you're thinking and appreciate it! Sadly, they went out of business. That's the last of our inventory.
@ACME Locksmith I have a question about the insurance/cash rating of safes. I have a collection of items that is probably not worth more than $50k, but it would be very difficult for me to replace them, even if my insurance company would cover them (which it won't). The cash rating system I've seen would have me using a C-rated container (I have an alarm system). However, the last time I called the police (emergency situation - someone got shot in front of my house), their response time was over 30 minutes, so I wouldn't think that anything less than a TL-30x6 would be able to provide assurance that my items are protected. However, this type of safe would cost me over 20% the value of its contents and the cash rating of $500k seems to suggest it would be overkill. Still, the peace of mind of an overbuilt safe is tempting. What would your instinct be in my situation?
Security cost money there's no doubt. If they are irreplaceable items get a good safe. A BIG TL 30x6 will be under $10k. If that's still too much then consider a standard TL 30.
When seconds count the police are only minutes away.
I have a question about the cement filled safes. How thick is the steel on the outside of those?
Depends on which one you're looking at. They vary. From 11 gauge to about 1/4 inch.
What lock would you recommend a really high-end mechanical or a high-end electronic lock?
We see them both fail. Check out our article discussing each at www.acmelocksmith.com/blog/digital-safe-locks-vs-mechanical-safe-lock/ . Still torn, get a duel lock that does both! :')
Hi, arent better the trezors with hardware/trezor key? Im affraid that those with electronics cant last more than 10 years and I also heard of many cases when the numbers got broken or were facing another problem with electronics. What do you think?
Im thinking of buying some, but want something long term reliable (20 years).
Modern safe locks on high-end safes (not the cheapies) can have the faceplate replaced if the keypad fails. You just swap them out and you get right in. The access code is stored on a chip inside the safe.
Are fireproof safes harder to cut into?
No. For proofing is usually done with fire board or some other composite. The ones that use a cement slurry could slow some people down, but they don't market it that way so there's no data on it.
Is a liberty d 20, a good gun safe?
At equivalent price points I think you get more from Hollon.
acme-safes-for-sale.com/
Liberty D20 is 12 gauge steel ; Hollon is 10 gauge steel … much stronger
Great information
Glad it was helpful!
"ACME Locksmith"??? Is your name Wiley?
If I purchase a Hollon BHS 16 or 22 locally, how much is a reasonable price for the product, shipped and installed?
We'll ship one to you curbside at no cost. You'll find most online vendors will do the same. Installation charges will depend entirely on your area. But since my company is in Phoenix, I am only familiar with the rates in that area. Here's our website if interested. www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/90-minute-fire-rated-gun-safes.html
@@LocksmithRecommended much appreciated, but I do want it installed/bolted down. Back to my original question, how much is a reasonable price for the product, delivery and installation etc?
@@grapevinelover1 Using that link, you can see our prices for installation in the Phoenix area. Depending on COL where you're at, it may be more or less.
@@LocksmithRecommended I’m not locally, but I did view your pricing for those services locally. I’m in Central Florida by the way.
I’m trying to find that small Baron safe...
Closest they make to it now.
www.acmelocksmith.com/buy-safes-online/small-cash-box-drop-safe-hd-03c.html
Get a great tl rated safe and is it not only as good as what you bolt it down with? I don’t care how much time it takes to breach if they pop it up and carry it away. Am I missing something?
Thanks for watching! A great TL safe is going to weigh well near 1,000 lbs for the small ones. It's extremely hard to move them because they are small and you can't use leverage. Bigger ones can weigh 3,000 lbs +. Nothing wrong with bolting them down though when the holes to do so are present.
I have a feeling that if they used lockpickinglawyer as the UL tester a lot of safes would be RSCs :D
Why do people love that guy? All he does is compromise your security by telling people how to bypass the locks you have protecting your home and property? I don't get it. Luckily, so far, people with the knowledge of how to open safes professionally are protecting that knowledge.
@@LocksmithRecommended Because it's fun to watch what are marketed as supposedly impenetrable locks opened faster than you can with a key and it advances lock sport in the public eye as being legitimate rather than the purview of criminals and shady government organizations. It also educates the public on what is a bad versus a good lock; the average person has zero idea of what quality actually is and will buy something that is easily bypassed. His videos put pressure on lock companies to up their game and expose shoddily made locks that can be an extreme danger for the intended user. For example, many of the small lockers being sold as gun safes for around $200 are laughably easy to bypass, but the average person does not know this. They buy it and put their gun in it, thinking it is safe but the mechanism is bypassed in a robbery or by a friend of your teenage child and someone could be killed with that gun. The only thing gate keeping does is inhibit the education and advancement of the subject it pretends to "protect" and in today's age, that "protection" is very difficult to do. Science does not advance by one person holding onto the secrets; rather the rapid advance in technology is through a collaboration of ideas. I'd personally love to see a RSC-grade lock manipulated to see what makes a good safe lock good.
I have been watching other videos, and some safe's can simply be open with a magnet? Has this brand been tested for this issue?
Safes that can be open with magnets are the worst of the worst safes. You should not see that with a burglary rated safe.
Those are garbage safes. A real safe is made of high quality materials and costs a pretty penny. 95% of ‘safes’ sold are trash. Do your research. This was a great video.
Stihl ts800 saw would make short work of getting one open. All a safe does is to buy the owner time to protect thier valuables. The more expensive the safe the more time you are buying.
Yes, so layered security is best. Motion detectors, cameras and maybe an alarm would be sufficient with just a Residential Security Container.
TXTL 60X6 are the highest UL rating. Chubb Sovereign and SLS Gem are a couple examples that withstand thermic lance which make short work of TL safes.
That may be true, but who the hell has a thermic lance in their back pocket! Certainly not your run of the mill bad guy. Any safe can be broken in to with the right tools and an abundance of time.
@@jasonlommen4769 Yes and it also depends on what you're protecting, a thermic lance will destroy the contents unless they are extremely heat tolerant. Guns, money and documents, won't survive a thermal attack.
International Shipping ?
Sorry. We don't.
3:27 - I think the following point you make is too little known and not talked about enough. The best security still works even when an attacker knows EXACTLY how it works, and exactly what its weaknesses are and is able to attack them directly. Security through obscurity is no security at all.
My personal favorite: I think it was Prince's safe after he died, they had to break in. It had a pocket inside the locking mechanism of ball bearings that then you drilled into this pocket, they jam and grab and break the drill bit. Genius!
I always thought it would be a good idea to incorporate electronics as well as hardware in a safe. Like alarms, deterrents such as cs gas release and things of that nature. Maybe something like a intricate dynamic locking mechanism and reinforcement application apon detection of an attack.
I've asked a manufacturer to send a sample of a safe alarm kit. When placed inside the safe it will notify you on your phone when it is opened or shaken. Seems like it could be a nifty little product.
@@LocksmithRecommended that's a great start to combining the two👍🏻
Most people tie a security system into a safe… there are vibration sensors, door contacts, cameras in the room, inside the safe, etc…
I put a little safe inside a big safe. Now I’ll never get my stuff.
If you bolted that down that would really piss off the thieves when they opened it😂. They would probably set your house of fire out of spite😢
Actually there is a TL TR 60
Makes me want to hide the safe if they are that easy to get into.
Have you seen our video on where to hide safes?
1,000 lbs dear god I'll have to reinforce my floors for that little boy.
I understand all safe ratings except 1. B rating. It's seems to be a loosely used term. The safest safe in the world is going to be something like a TRTL 60x6. They are torch proof and you can store millions in jewelry which can be insured. It's virtually the closest thing to being impenetrable.
There used to be a real thing as a B-rated safe. But that term hasn't meant anything for years. Nowadays it's basically just when a manufacturer enhances their product with extra, beneficial security features. The "burglary safes" give manufacturers a chance to put out a more secure product without having to pay for a UL rating. There are some very good burglary safes out there.
@@LocksmithRecommended I thought a B rated safe required 1/4" steel in the body and 1/2" plate in the door.
@@WobblinGoblin1 That use to be the definition of it. And insurance companies will still refer to a "B-rated" safe as one that has the characteristics you mention. But it's not a UL rating. It's just a construction rating. The exact definition of it today is: Steel doors less than 1″ thick and steel body less than 1/2″ thick. Which is basically meaningless.
Concrete saw your in 100%
I’m still thinking about either the Burg watcher safe or the American security BF series BF1512 or maybe the BF 2116 I will bolt which ever one I buy either into the wooden floor or cut the wooden floor between the joists and pour some sack Crete and come up between the joists with cement and secure the safe that way,,,the bfs am sec safes look good,,, in fact they look really good they look great but they’re cheap price scares me a little,,,idk,,,looks like you get a lot for your money feature wise on the BFS including a half inch thick door and inner and outer walls of 11 gauge steel
Get yourself a 1 " or even an 1/2 ( half) inch plate steel all side box (safe), and bolt it down into commercial grade high psi concrete re-barred of course using (commercial-grade 8 bolts). Use 4 bolts if the safe is holed that way on its deck. Going with an 1" or 1/2 inch box will not warp even if trying to pry it off the floor unless the thief is using a fork lift, not even a a pallet jack can warp or pry open from the floor. Be sure the retractable bolts on the door are within at least 1/2" or more encasement to defeat prying attacks on the door, and have bolts on all 4 sides of the door. Go with the glass re-lockers on your locks, and you have to decide if want a traditional rotating combo lock (non electronic) or a various great electronic locks (if your using it frequently)which you can find some (EMP) - resistant locks like S & G or LP. If you come across a box that have a door with bolts on all 4 sides but the encasement that houses the bolts aren't as thick, you can always beef that area up with some welding more steel onto it or even welding some re-bar to it will work, and if you can't weld, most safe doors can come off once the door is opened from the safe box, just bring the box to a welding shop with the specs you want done to it. NYC area have a lot good safes for sale considering all the merchants of precious metals and jewelry in that city.
Yah any safe from a big box store is garbage 🗑️
With liberty the rating means nothing as the company just hands out the codes o the government and who else wants it
Just shot a video on that.
ua-cam.com/video/CKh28se73J4/v-deo.html
Where is SentySafe in this list? Answer: Nowhere.
Yep. Sentry safes offer great fire protection. Not burglary protection. Thanks for the comment! ✌
I have documents in my Sentry. I took the ammo out because it's now too valuable to be kept in a Sentry.
Hello. We are interested in a safe. May we speak to a sales rep? Or can you provide an email?
Safesales@acmelocksmith.com
You've a really great salesman. I'll give you that. RSC rating "..one man using common tools you can get at any hardware store.." Now you've not telling the whole truth are you? What tools and is the attack only on the door? Viewers, do your research. He's a salesman and watcher, beware.
Any commonly found tools. Attack is on the door. Attack is actual tool-touching-safe time.
No such thing as a safe thieves cant get into. Just different levels of difficulty
Meredith Course
Hollon > Liberty
ROTFL 5 min attack? That's a joke
You should here about Sentry safes....