I don’t understand draining the block after you fill it with anti-freeze? I thought the point was to leave it full of anti-freeze during winter months?
Another general comment: The RV style antifreezes are rated by burst temp, not freeze temp. This means that they will start to get hard at a temp that is much higher than the burst temp. As in the -60 may get hard at +10*F. So I would use only the -100, or mix up a 50/50 batch of Sierra propylene glycol antifreeze that gives you freeze protection down to -26*F. You can go higher on the % of antifreeze and get up to -54* for extreme areas. Either the West Marine -100 or the Sierra PG/no tox are the best antifreezes to use in engine systems. The rest, are for toilets and the like!
The -100 has a freeze temp of about -54*F, I measured this myself. In my area we seldom get to zero *F so I use the Sierra mixed at 50/50 for -26*F freeze protection. I want my AF to stay liquid! Not get hard like the RV -50 or -60, that is fine for pipes but not for cast iron engines.
Good info in this. I have a 19 foot runabout. I am a pilot as well,was looking through your channel. Seems like we both chose the most ridiculously expensive hobbies we could find!
I have never ran mine before winterizing amd have never had a problem. There is no reason to. As long as you get all the drains amd physically see rv coolant come put youre fine
I use the same set up. But I have 4 gallons on antifreeze in the tank. I have the spark arrestor off the carburetor. I run fresh water until it totally warms up. Then I switch to the antifreeze tank and run it down until I see pure antifreeze coming out. Then I fog the carburetor down until it kills the engine. Then I'm done. I have never drained the block. I'm in north Texas area. But even with the hard freeze in 2021, I had no issues. I bought my boat new in 1997 and still looks and runs good.
@@warrenhardy 👍🏼 Mine is a 1997 Maxum 1750SR with the 3.0 LX. Interior looks good, but I do need to replace a small section of flooring. Getting a little soft where everyone enters the boat from the boat ladder area into the boat.
@@warrenhardy Here is a video if when we went to Lake Hamilton in Hot Springs Arkansas. You can see my boat at about 18 seconds into the video. ua-cam.com/video/1_nCdL5RZqI/v-deo.html
I drain the block then re-install the butterfly plastic plugs.. then with a five gallon bucket with a hose fitting connected to ear muffs and the bucket on a ladder. I pour 4 and a half gallons inside the bucket while running of - 75 rv antifreeze and once pink is coming out of the drive. I then drain the block again of the rv anti freeze. I leave the blue plugs out and placed in a ziplock bag secured to the steering wheel. I reinstall the plugs at the beginning of the season… Previous I was installing the blue plugs once drained and I had a blue plug blow out over the winter clearly I did not achieve a complete drain down. .. I started the engine at the beginning of the season and water was pouring out through the blown out plug
good idea about keeping the plugs out, and placing them by the steering wheel, I do that same with the main drain plug, keep it taped to the steering wheel, that way I don't loose it, or be that guy that forgets to put the drain plug in.
OK there is a better way to do it if you want to use AF. The problem with doing it this way, is either you have to drain the engine first, or remove the thermostat. On a cool fall day the thermostat may not open all the way and then the AF will go out the exhaust elbows, so the manifolds/elbows will be full of AF but the block may still have raw water in it due to the stat not opening. The stat must open for water to exit the block. Draining the AF after you are done defeats the purpose of putting it in in the first place. You drain to prevent freeze damage and use AF to reduce corrosion damage. The right way and the way Merc and OMC told you to do it in their shop manuals: Warm engine up, change the oil and filter. Run it again, check for leaks, and then fog it. Let it cool off before draining. Then remove every drain referenced in the manual and poke all drain holes with a pick or small screwdriver. Remove hoses as directed in the manual to drain the front circulating pump and p/s or fuel coolers. After all is drained, now your engine is freeze protected. If you want corrosion protection: Disconnect the large hose from the thermo housing to the front circulating pump on the top end. Put a funnel in it and fill the engine with -100 Marine AF, till AF comes out the neck of the themo housing. No need to remove stat. Re-connect that hose. Then disconnect each manifold feed hose (and elbow feed hose if your engine has separate ones) and fill with AF till it runs out the exhaust. Re-connect hoses. Now the engine and exhaust are full of AF. Lastly put the drive down and disconnect the hose going from the transom to the thermo housing (Alpha, Cobra) or impeller housing (Bravo, Volvo). Hole this hose up and fill with AF till it runs out the drive intakes. This pushes water out of the hoses going thru the transom mount and in the water passages in the drive. Reconnect that hose. If you have a Bravo or Volvo with an engine mounted impeller I would disconnect the hose that goes from the impeller housing to the thermo housing. Make sure the housing drains. Then reconnect it on the impeller housing, disconnect it at the thermo housing. Now fill the hose and housing with marine AF. Reconnect the hose. Now all the raw water is out, and everything is protected from freezing and corrosion. I would say, DO NOT use those winterizing kits unless you have a closed cooled engine with a heat exchange. If you don't drain the raw water first you could wind up with a cracked block, heads and intake come the spring. PS use the -100, the -50 or -60 starts to get hard at about zero F. Those ratings are burst temps not freeze temp. I measured the freeze temp of the -100 with a propylene glycol hydrometer and its about -45*F. More than good enough.
Well, there are 2 other choices...one is to get an I/O with closed cooling, they are easier to winterize, you could actually use the tank in the vid above, as long as you hooked up a live well pump to it to pressurize the flow... The other choice...just buy a boat with a modern outboard....you change the motor oil (4 stroke) and lower unit oil and put the engine down and you're done! Last solution, move south lol....
@@Luigi-pk8mk After many yeas with twin Penta's 5.7's This is my first season with twin Merc's 5.7's If YOU Luigi 1955 have a video please share it. I'm probably going to lay her up in the next few weeks.
Please read my entry above. These companies should be ashamed of themselves for selling these kits under the guise that they are safe to use on Raw Water cooled engines.
If you pay a marina to winterize your engine, and if their winterizing was to fail, they become responsible for the damage. Whereas if you use one of these kits, and if your winterizing was to fail..... it will be on your dime!
Once you get a system down, you can drain it yourself and adding AF is optional. I pull out the divider panels in my engine compartment, drain the exhaust manifolds, pull out both drain plugs, poke em, disconnect the bottom of the big hose on the front circ pump, and drain the raw water intake hose. Last time I did it a few days ago I timed myself, about 20 min in all. Do NOT use those kits on a raw water cooled engine!
What if you just pour marine antifreeze down both radiator hoses and fill them up? Is it still necessary to run the motor first to open up the thermostat?
george harris yea, I had opened it, a few turns. But after I took the cap right off I saw that I had to drop a hole in it. As it came completely sealed. Who knew lol.
I just ran this same technique this year, but now I have the thermostat gauge fixed and a hole in the tank to let air in, ran much smoother this year, with help from my son in the boat to run, and shut the motor off.
I can't be 100.000% sure, but it looks like you are using RV antifreeze which should be safe for potable water systems and therefore not poisonous. I still would not let my dog drink it but if they get a taste of it by accident I don't think it would be too harmful. You should not use regular automobile antifreeze, which is typically not pink. Pink RV antifreeze can be found in the camper area at Walmart. Also, would be cool if you could put a link to the tank/hose kit you are using. Thanks for the good quality video.
Sorry, missed the product reference towards the end of your demo. Here's a link for the kit on amazon: smile.amazon.com/Camco-65501-Yourself-Boat-Winterizer/dp/B0000AXQU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472819962&sr=8-1&keywords=camco+winterizer
430 Celsius is 806 F , Fresh water engines should run at 170-210 degrees. You were not reading the thermostat temp or the water would have turned to steam at 100C or 212F
what's the point of running antifreeze through it if you're gonna drain the block anyway? Drain the block first and fill it with antifreeze after and leave it in there. In the spring drain it and save it for the next time
Just acquired a '78 Wellcraft Airslot II with a Volvo Penta 350. Can't see any other information on it, e.i, litres, etc. Have no documentation. Anyway obviously sea-cooled, but beyond that we are clueless on how to winterize. It does have antifreeze, but not sure what else to do. Will this method cover this particular engine? First time boat owners. And we live in Alaska, down by Homer, so the winters aren't as severe as in the interior (Fairbanks, etc.)
All I do is hook it up to the water line with the muffs and start it up, make sure its running well, and top up the fuel before taking it to the boat launch, nothing like getting it in the water at the launch only to find the battery dead, or that it won't start. don't forget your drain plug!
I see a lot of diluted antifreeze coming out of your drain blocks? I think too much human error is possible in this scenario? How confident are you that your engine block is totally drained ? I once saw the marine anti freeze being stored outside at Lowe’s lumber, and it was all Slushy on a 10° day 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
So when you run the antifreeze through the engine and then open the blue plugs, you release all that antifreeze and possible water if trapped in the system, so do you leave the block/engine empty over the winter or fill it back up with antifreeze?
You can do either, its true air does not freeze but rust never sleeps. I add GOOD antifreeze (not -50 or -60) the -100 or I mix up a batch of Sierra no tox.
I realize this is an old video, but you mentioned OTHER steps, like carb fogging. You said it was in your other videos? Not seeing anything labeled that.
guess I should have been more specific, ua-cam.com/video/apCQRLHgsLo/v-deo.html Next year I should do an updated video cause this has worked for me for years and years and it’s not that complicated.
Personally I just drain it and leave all the plug open for the winter. This way I can confirm that only antifreeze is coming out. One year I didn’t wait long enough for the motor to warm up and when I drained one of the lines it has some water in it.
yes the power steering fluid cooler could be mounted where it does not drain completely. Any lake water remaining in the exhaust manifolds will CRACK them for sure. Water pipes around the front of the engine also capture liquid. So unless you live somewhere that it does not get below 20 for several days, you need to add RV antifreeze.
Yea, basically what Mark said, even after its warmed up and I run the RV antifreeze through the motor, I still drain it all out. incase any water is still trapped inside. can't hurt to be extra careful, don't need the extra expense and down time in the spring.
@@warrenhardy Hey sir I have a 5.7 also and new to this kinda boat and getting ready to do mine for the winter r season is over here. I have five of those blue drain plugs after i run my anti freeze though it do i just go ahead and remove them all and let it drain and be good. i usually take all of them out every time i leave the lake but im just making sure its ok to do so after i get the anti freeze in the motor to do the same for winter?
Anybody know if I can use the same system on my inboard ski boat? I have a boot that fits over the raw water intake on the hull bottom (some people call the boot a "fake-a-lake).
It is the same issue I explained above. If you do not drain the engine first, or remove the thermostat, if the stat does not open up all the way the raw water will remain in the engine and can crack the block. Simply drain the engine manifolds and hoses, poke all drain holes and drain p/s coolers too. I back fill the engine and manifolds through the hoses to keep out air and moisture and reduce corrosion. The suck up the AF kits can be used only on engines with closed cooling in my opinion. Risky with raw water cooling. Just drain it, the AF part is optional, but you have to do it the right way or else.
Helpful video thanks . Does the Rv Antifreeze have anti corrosion properties in the same way that engine coolant has? Is there a reason to not use engine coolant ?
I just used this system and totally failed. I can't figure out what happened. I shut off the water and opened the antifreeze valve. It started to flow fine then halfway down seemed to stop flowing. I figured it was vapor lock so I cleared the vent hole. Never did I see antifreeze coming from the exhaust port area. The motor started getting hot pretty quick so I shut it down. I put another gallon of antifreeze in the tank, punched a bigger vent hole in it, raised it even higher than the first time and tried again. It drained all the way but when I drained the block it looked like clear water, no antifreeze. What the hell? The boat is in perfect condition and everything was working fine while running on the hose. I ran it for 20 minutes before opening the antifreeze tank so it was plenty warm enough for the thermostat to be open. I don't get it. Any ideas? Thanks.
That’s puzzling, but that’s exactly why I drain the antifreeze after, to confirm there is no water in the system. Could it be possible that your thermostat is broken and locked closed? Has that happen to me on a sled.
@@warrenhardy I don't think that's possible. The boat runs fine. It ran for 17 minutes on the hose to warm up and never went above 155. Within 2 minutes of turning off the water and turning on the -50 marine antifreeze it stopped pouring out of the exhaust area (immediately) and the temp shot up to 200 and I quickly killed it. It's VERY perplexing. I've since seen videos from people who had the same problem and had to use a pump to make it work. Not enough pressure using gravity I guess? But I've seen videos of it working fine with gravity feed for lots of people. I don't get it. Unfortunately, I'm not willing to try again and will now have to pay to have it done even though I'm a lifelong diy'r. I don't want to risk damage or waste any more money. It's driving me nuts that I don't have an answer for why this failed though.
@@liv4music ohh maybe the water pump impeller, is not running 100%. So it’s not sucking properly, but when the hose is on it the pressure is pushing water through the system. Something to figure out
No reason whatsoever to fog an injected motor. It does nothing. If you were going to let your car sit for 3-4 months, would you fog it? No, and it's the exact same thing. Put some stabilizer in the fuel, put the antifreeze in the engine and forget about it.
Tried this tank blew up and covered deck in sea brute camco says my fault cause I pressurized the tank ok how did I do that cause I followed this vid cost me 75 bucks for kit anti freeze and two hours clean up still don’t know how I failed maybe will vid a fail and post to UA-cam use caution cause this thing is delicate camco has no support they suck beware is my experience kaboom.
Likely, but it would require more work, you need to take apart the thermostat and blow out the water and fill with anti freeze, plus all the other steps of removing drain plugs.
John Pallies drain the water out of your Engine block and manifolds first. Then poor antifreeze down your hoses use about two gallons.. take out your thermostat.. you should change it every two years anyway..
Appears to be the wrong kind of antifreeze...that looks like waterline antifreeze which has ethyl alcohol in it...you need to use propylene glycol. Usually much more pink in color... The Prestone bottle says, "NOT FOR USE IN ENGINE BLOCKS".
I don’t understand draining the block after you fill it with anti-freeze? I thought the point was to leave it full of anti-freeze during winter months?
Another general comment: The RV style antifreezes are rated by burst temp, not freeze temp. This means that they will start to get hard at a temp that is much higher than the burst temp. As in the -60 may get hard at +10*F. So I would use only the -100, or mix up a 50/50 batch of Sierra propylene glycol antifreeze that gives you freeze protection down to -26*F. You can go higher on the % of antifreeze and get up to -54* for extreme areas. Either the West Marine -100 or the Sierra PG/no tox are the best antifreezes to use in engine systems. The rest, are for toilets and the like!
The -100 has a freeze temp of about -54*F, I measured this myself. In my area we seldom get to zero *F so I use the Sierra mixed at 50/50 for -26*F freeze protection. I want my AF to stay liquid! Not get hard like the RV -50 or -60, that is fine for pipes but not for cast iron engines.
thanks for the info
Good info in this. I have a 19 foot runabout. I am a pilot as well,was looking through your channel. Seems like we both chose the most ridiculously expensive hobbies we could find!
So true!!
Run the motor on raw water first up to temperature then drain your block And manifolds and sea pump. Then antifreeze. More peace of mind..
I have never ran mine before winterizing amd have never had a problem. There is no reason to. As long as you get all the drains amd physically see rv coolant come put youre fine
its that time of year again!
Some of those jugs are in in my garage - they came with the house - I may use them when I winterize my I/O next month
Just FYI (5 years later), plumbing antifreeze is completely non-toxic and biodegradable.
I use the same set up.
But I have 4 gallons on antifreeze in the tank. I have the spark arrestor off the carburetor.
I run fresh water until it totally warms up. Then I switch to the antifreeze tank and run it down until I see pure antifreeze coming out. Then I fog the carburetor down until it kills the engine. Then I'm done. I have never drained the block. I'm in north Texas area. But even with the hard freeze in 2021, I had no issues. I bought my boat new in 1997 and still looks and runs good.
Same year boat but soon needs new covers and seats. Still runs like a top. When I can afforded the gas
@@warrenhardy
👍🏼
Mine is a 1997 Maxum 1750SR with the 3.0 LX. Interior looks good, but I do need to replace a small section of flooring. Getting a little soft where everyone enters the boat from the boat ladder area into the boat.
@@warrenhardy
Here is a video if when we went to Lake Hamilton in Hot Springs Arkansas.
You can see my boat at about 18 seconds into the video.
ua-cam.com/video/1_nCdL5RZqI/v-deo.html
@@michaelcowan6254 for sure, always where the water collects. Ours is a crownline 5.7 with permanent carpet, but lucky on the floor so far.
@@warrenhardy
I see what you mean about gas with the 5.7.
I drain the block then re-install the butterfly plastic plugs.. then with a five gallon bucket with a hose fitting connected to ear muffs and the bucket on a ladder. I pour 4 and a half gallons inside the bucket while running of - 75 rv antifreeze and once pink is coming out of the drive.
I then drain the block again of the rv anti freeze. I leave the blue plugs out and placed in a ziplock bag secured to the steering wheel.
I reinstall the plugs at the beginning of the season…
Previous I was installing the blue plugs once drained and I had a blue plug blow out over the winter clearly I did not achieve a complete drain down. .. I started the engine at the beginning of the season and water was pouring out through the blown out plug
good idea about keeping the plugs out, and placing them by the steering wheel, I do that same with the main drain plug, keep it taped to the steering wheel, that way I don't loose it, or be that guy that forgets to put the drain plug in.
I thought part of the purpose of the antifreeze or propylene was to leave it inside for its rust inhibiting properties???
OK there is a better way to do it if you want to use AF. The problem with doing it this way, is either you have to drain the engine first, or remove the thermostat. On a cool fall day the thermostat may not open all the way and then the AF will go out the exhaust elbows, so the manifolds/elbows will be full of AF but the block may still have raw water in it due to the stat not opening. The stat must open for water to exit the block. Draining the AF after you are done defeats the purpose of putting it in in the first place. You drain to prevent freeze damage and use AF to reduce corrosion damage.
The right way and the way Merc and OMC told you to do it in their shop manuals:
Warm engine up, change the oil and filter. Run it again, check for leaks, and then fog it. Let it cool off before draining. Then remove every drain referenced in the manual and poke all drain holes with a pick or small screwdriver. Remove hoses as directed in the manual to drain the front circulating pump and p/s or fuel coolers. After all is drained, now your engine is freeze protected. If you want corrosion protection:
Disconnect the large hose from the thermo housing to the front circulating pump on the top end. Put a funnel in it and fill the engine with -100 Marine AF, till AF comes out the neck of the themo housing. No need to remove stat. Re-connect that hose. Then disconnect each manifold feed hose (and elbow feed hose if your engine has separate ones) and fill with AF till it runs out the exhaust. Re-connect hoses. Now the engine and exhaust are full of AF. Lastly put the drive down and disconnect the hose going from the transom to the thermo housing (Alpha, Cobra) or impeller housing (Bravo, Volvo). Hole this hose up and fill with AF till it runs out the drive intakes. This pushes water out of the hoses going thru the transom mount and in the water passages in the drive. Reconnect that hose. If you have a Bravo or Volvo with an engine mounted impeller I would disconnect the hose that goes from the impeller housing to the thermo housing. Make sure the housing drains. Then reconnect it on the impeller housing, disconnect it at the thermo housing. Now fill the hose and housing with marine AF. Reconnect the hose. Now all the raw water is out, and everything is protected from freezing and corrosion.
I would say, DO NOT use those winterizing kits unless you have a closed cooled engine with a heat exchange. If you don't drain the raw water first you could wind up with a cracked block, heads and intake come the spring.
PS use the -100, the -50 or -60 starts to get hard at about zero F. Those ratings are burst temps not freeze temp. I measured the freeze temp of the -100 with a propylene glycol hydrometer and its about -45*F. More than good enough.
What ever you do, drain again afterwards as to prevent antifreeze dilution.
No, Luigi pretty much spelled it out in crayon for you.
holy crap, If I had to do all that every fall, I would just sell the boat.
Well, there are 2 other choices...one is to get an I/O with closed cooling, they are easier to winterize, you could actually use the tank in the vid above, as long as you hooked up a live well pump to it to pressurize the flow...
The other choice...just buy a boat with a modern outboard....you change the motor oil (4 stroke) and lower unit oil and put the engine down and you're done!
Last solution, move south lol....
@@Luigi-pk8mk After many yeas with twin Penta's 5.7's This is my first season with twin Merc's 5.7's If YOU Luigi 1955 have a video please share it. I'm probably going to lay her up in the next few weeks.
Great kit and saves you from getting ripped off at the marina,lol
I agree 100% pays for its self in the first season.
Please read my entry above.
These companies should be ashamed of themselves for selling these kits under the guise that they are safe to use on Raw Water cooled engines.
If you pay a marina to winterize your engine, and if their winterizing was to fail, they become responsible for the damage.
Whereas if you use one of these kits, and if your winterizing was to fail..... it will be on your dime!
That's true
Here on seattle cost
$420 to do that
😠😡
Once you get a system down, you can drain it yourself and adding AF is optional. I pull out the divider panels in my engine compartment, drain the exhaust manifolds, pull out both drain plugs, poke em, disconnect the bottom of the big hose on the front circ pump, and drain the raw water intake hose. Last time I did it a few days ago I timed myself, about 20 min in all. Do NOT use those kits on a raw water cooled engine!
the most important part is to wait for the motor to warm up so that the thermo opens to introduce antifreeze to the entire system.
False Positive! Please take a minute or two and read my write-up.
www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR?ref=pf_vv_at_pdctrvw_srp
Exactly
What if you just pour marine antifreeze down both radiator hoses and fill them up? Is it still necessary to run the motor first to open up the thermostat?
@@robertdean6222 I would say you still need to warm it, if you don’t get that thermostat open you might end up with water in your block.
If I may ask, why did you drain the antifreeze and not just leave it in there for winterization?
I think the reason your tank started to get crushed is you have to open the air inlet at the top of the tank.
george harris yea, I had opened it, a few turns. But after I took the cap right off I saw that I had to drop a hole in it. As it came completely sealed. Who knew lol.
I had some problems with mine, I will check that!
I just ran this same technique this year, but now I have the thermostat gauge fixed and a hole in the tank to let air in, ran much smoother this year, with help from my son in the boat to run, and shut the motor off.
I checked my vent, it was partially blocked with plastic casting!
I can't be 100.000% sure, but it looks like you are using RV antifreeze which should be safe for potable water systems and therefore not poisonous. I still would not let my dog drink it but if they get a taste of it by accident I don't think it would be too harmful. You should not use regular automobile antifreeze, which is typically not pink. Pink RV antifreeze can be found in the camper area at Walmart. Also, would be cool if you could put a link to the tank/hose kit you are using. Thanks for the good quality video.
Sorry, missed the product reference towards the end of your demo. Here's a link for the kit on amazon: smile.amazon.com/Camco-65501-Yourself-Boat-Winterizer/dp/B0000AXQU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472819962&sr=8-1&keywords=camco+winterizer
yes to the RV antifreeze
430 Celsius is 806 F , Fresh water engines should run at 170-210 degrees. You were not reading the thermostat temp or the water would have turned to steam at 100C or 212F
It wad 43.0
is there a link to the carb fogging winterize portion?
what's the point of running antifreeze through it if you're gonna drain the block anyway? Drain the block first and fill it with antifreeze after and leave it in there. In the spring drain it and save it for the next time
Very good video. Thank you.
great if you run in a lake, but you don't ever want to drain the block down if your in salt water.
Why? Sorry, I'm new to this.
Just acquired a '78 Wellcraft Airslot II with a Volvo Penta 350. Can't see any other information on it, e.i, litres, etc. Have no documentation. Anyway obviously sea-cooled, but beyond that we are clueless on how to winterize. It does have antifreeze, but not sure what else to do. Will this method cover this particular engine? First time boat owners. And we live in Alaska, down by Homer, so the winters aren't as severe as in the interior (Fairbanks, etc.)
Do you need to remove the water engine plugs? Or does this kit pretty much takes care of thst srep since antifreeze is flowing through out the system?
I still do so I cab confirm it worked.
May be a stupid question but do you have to “dewinterize” your boat whenever warm weather rolls around again and you go to use it?
All I do is hook it up to the water line with the muffs and start it up, make sure its running well, and top up the fuel before taking it to the boat launch, nothing like getting it in the water at the launch only to find the battery dead, or that it won't start. don't forget your drain plug!
@@warrenhardy Much appreciated brother! Take care
Once motor warm up. Faster to drain water out of block. Switch over to antifreeze. Then open drain to see it.
I see a lot of diluted antifreeze coming out of your drain blocks? I think too much human error is possible in this scenario?
How confident are you that your engine block is totally drained ?
I once saw the marine anti freeze being stored outside at Lowe’s lumber, and it was all Slushy on a 10° day
🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
So when you run the antifreeze through the engine and then open the blue plugs, you release all that antifreeze and possible water if trapped in the system, so do you leave the block/engine empty over the winter or fill it back up with antifreeze?
Leave the block, heads and exhaust system empty. AIR will not freeze expand and ruin your expensive cast iron components.
Omg mate.. yes not to freeze but iron parts rust when left to breathe in air.
You can do either, its true air does not freeze but rust never sleeps. I add GOOD antifreeze (not -50 or -60) the -100 or I mix up a batch of Sierra no tox.
Why drain the antifreeze once in ???
Thanks
Great video
thx
I realize this is an old video, but you mentioned OTHER steps, like carb fogging. You said it was in your other videos? Not seeing anything labeled that.
guess I should have been more specific, ua-cam.com/video/apCQRLHgsLo/v-deo.html
Next year I should do an updated video cause this has worked for me for years and years and it’s not that complicated.
Friends boat but same idea
how much antifreeze did you use ?,,I have 3.0.
I use 4L. Not all of it gets used.
Is it better to just keep the antifreeze in your system or drain it through the frost plugs?
Personally I just drain it and leave all the plug open for the winter. This way I can confirm that only antifreeze is coming out. One year I didn’t wait long enough for the motor to warm up and when I drained one of the lines it has some water in it.
Why infuse the motor with anti freeze just to drain it? Seems like a waste to me.
because some water can remain trapped in pockets and freeze and crack things
yes the power steering fluid cooler could be mounted where it does not drain completely. Any lake water remaining in the exhaust manifolds will CRACK them for sure. Water pipes around the front of the engine also capture liquid. So unless you live somewhere that it does not get below 20 for several days, you need to add RV antifreeze.
Yea, basically what Mark said, even after its warmed up and I run the RV antifreeze through the motor, I still drain it all out. incase any water is still trapped inside. can't hurt to be extra careful, don't need the extra expense and down time in the spring.
@@warrenhardy Hey sir I have a 5.7 also and new to this kinda boat and getting ready to do mine for the winter r season is over here. I have five of those blue drain plugs after i run my anti freeze though it do i just go ahead and remove them all and let it drain and be good. i usually take all of them out every time i leave the lake but im just making sure its ok to do so after i get the anti freeze in the motor to do the same for winter?
@@JamesRay00 personally I do drain them after running the antifreeze, but I don't think its necessary.
You need to open the vent at the top of the handle!
You are correct, I actually had, but turned out there was no hole under the vent cap, I had to drill one in.
Anybody know if I can use the same system on my inboard ski boat? I have a boot that fits over the raw water intake on the hull bottom (some people call the boot a "fake-a-lake).
Please read my entry above.
It is the same issue I explained above. If you do not drain the engine first, or remove the thermostat, if the stat does not open up all the way the raw water will remain in the engine and can crack the block. Simply drain the engine manifolds and hoses, poke all drain holes and drain p/s coolers too. I back fill the engine and manifolds through the hoses to keep out air and moisture and reduce corrosion. The suck up the AF kits can be used only on engines with closed cooling in my opinion. Risky with raw water cooling. Just drain it, the AF part is optional, but you have to do it the right way or else.
And FYI RV antifreeze is NON toxic. However that being said I would still not want a human or pet to consume it.
Agreed
Why? It's booze with color and terrible (but safe) flavor added.
Helpful video thanks . Does the Rv Antifreeze have anti corrosion properties in the same way that engine coolant has? Is there a reason to not use engine coolant ?
Not sure. I know it’s like a 1/4 the price
DO NOT use auto antifreeze, it is highly poisonous, the only kind to use is Sierra no tox mixed 50/50 or the west marine -100
lots of hands on know how from smart people
Can’t you just leave the antifreeze in the line over winter?
you totally can
I just used this system and totally failed. I can't figure out what happened. I shut off the water and opened the antifreeze valve. It started to flow fine then halfway down seemed to stop flowing. I figured it was vapor lock so I cleared the vent hole. Never did I see antifreeze coming from the exhaust port area. The motor started getting hot pretty quick so I shut it down. I put another gallon of antifreeze in the tank, punched a bigger vent hole in it, raised it even higher than the first time and tried again. It drained all the way but when I drained the block it looked like clear water, no antifreeze. What the hell? The boat is in perfect condition and everything was working fine while running on the hose. I ran it for 20 minutes before opening the antifreeze tank so it was plenty warm enough for the thermostat to be open. I don't get it. Any ideas? Thanks.
That’s puzzling, but that’s exactly why I drain the antifreeze after, to confirm there is no water in the system. Could it be possible that your thermostat is broken and locked closed? Has that happen to me on a sled.
@@warrenhardy I don't think that's possible. The boat runs fine. It ran for 17 minutes on the hose to warm up and never went above 155. Within 2 minutes of turning off the water and turning on the -50 marine antifreeze it stopped pouring out of the exhaust area (immediately) and the temp shot up to 200 and I quickly killed it. It's VERY perplexing. I've since seen videos from people who had the same problem and had to use a pump to make it work. Not enough pressure using gravity I guess? But I've seen videos of it working fine with gravity feed for lots of people. I don't get it. Unfortunately, I'm not willing to try again and will now have to pay to have it done even though I'm a lifelong diy'r. I don't want to risk damage or waste any more money. It's driving me nuts that I don't have an answer for why this failed though.
@@liv4music ohh maybe the water pump impeller, is not running 100%. So it’s not sucking properly, but when the hose is on it the pressure is pushing water through the system. Something to figure out
@@warrenhardy Thanks for taking the time to help.
@@warrenhardy That is a brilliant deduction. Very likely the impeller is not functioning properly.
No reason whatsoever to fog an injected motor. It does nothing. If you were going to let your car sit for 3-4 months, would you fog it? No, and it's the exact same thing. Put some stabilizer in the fuel, put the antifreeze in the engine and forget about it.
why don't just leave antifreeze in there? How many gallons did it take ?
I use about 2.5 gallons, and I could leave it in, i just prefer to drain it. thanks
Where can I buy this kit? Canadian Tire?
ADV Rider not sure they have it. I got mine at www.westmarine.com/buy/camco--inboard-outboard-winterizing-kit--4754859?recordNum=1
Th would be easy to make Dave
Did put plugs back in or leave them out?
Personally, yes I do. If I didn’t I would forget they are out in the spring and flood my boat. lol
I would hope it would have a long block in it or it would never run lol
Tried this tank blew up and covered deck in sea brute camco says my fault cause I pressurized the tank ok how did I do that cause I followed this vid cost me 75 bucks for kit anti freeze and two hours clean up still don’t know how I failed maybe will vid a fail and post to UA-cam use caution cause this thing is delicate camco has no support they suck beware is my experience kaboom.
What? Lol
Rv antifreeze is not poisonous.
How many gal did used? Hold up to 5.
I think 4L, getting ready to do mine again soon.
Is there a way to winterize without engine running
Likely, but it would require more work, you need to take apart the thermostat and blow out the water and fill with anti freeze, plus all the other steps of removing drain plugs.
John Pallies drain the water out of your Engine block and manifolds first. Then poor antifreeze down your hoses use about two gallons.. take out your thermostat.. you should change it every two years anyway..
Poke a hole in that supply tank!
Yea, the relief valve was blocked.
I just pull thermostat out
Appears to be the wrong kind of antifreeze...that looks like waterline antifreeze which has ethyl alcohol in it...you need to use propylene glycol. Usually much more pink in color...
The Prestone bottle says, "NOT FOR USE IN ENGINE BLOCKS".
I look into this, thanks
Not sure the point of winterizing if you’re just going to drain it. Unless you’re living in extremely cold climate.
I drain it, just to confirm that no water comes out anywhere. That there’s no pockets of water that I missed.
Been doing it this way for over 10 years and never an issue in the spring
$40 for a new thermostat meter 3 wires ..take 20 minutes to replace..
That's not the rait way to do it
Your water looks very diluted
Don’t put video up when you have current problems with your engine that have not been corrected and or addressed
What a mess lmao