Great tips - subbed! One thing I do with my 4 stroke Yamaha outboard, is instead of filling the air with smoke during fogging, I simply remove all the plugs and spray the fogging oil directly into the cylinders, then crank a little bit with the ignition lanyard pulled, then clean, gap, and replace the plugs. This gets all the oil directly to the internal surfaces without the stink and smoke.
In Minnesota it’s a stiff fine (up to $350) if you get caught going down the road with your drain plug in. You must pull the plug before you leave the boat launch to prevent the spread of invasive critters or plants.
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Thank you Sean , my first boat was a 71 Sidewinder, I made the mistake of snow and after market nylon cover, it was in rough shape to begin with how ever grateful it was not our 2018 Supreme that we have now. Appreciate every thing you do for everyone. This is why I share back with you .
Great video. Would be nice to have a similar one for those of us who do not stop using our boats during the winter....basically I just drain all water and keep a heater in my engine bay when not using it. =)
I have a Evinrude e-tech 40. I go thru the winter shut down and my boat is garage stored. I had my hi pressure fuel pump go dry and locked up requiring a new pump $$. Now I drain vapor separator and oil my pump internally. Clean it out in the spring and gas it up. Fish on!
I drove by a dealership a few years back in the middle of the winter and no less than 5 boats were nose down. Due to: the tongue jack failing and heavy snow. We have a dedicated saw horse, tall enough to keep the nose high, that we use in conjunction with the tongue jack.
I have fishing boat with a removable fuel tank and one thing that I was taught when Winterizing was when you want to run all the fuel out of the system, disconnect the tank while its running so it literally pulls all the fuel from the lines and carb until it finally stalls. Of Course if you have fuel injection you probably don't want to do this.
We just moved our pontoon to a new Marina and they are storing it directly on cement cinder blocks. Is this ok or should there be wood on top of the cinders before the pontoon is put on top?
Great info! Thanks for the video. QUESTION: Do you agree that there's no sense running antifreeze through the cooling system--you just need to drain everything properly? I will say I have been successful buying oversized covers and putting small ladders in boat to create a very steep slope, cinching everything down well, and having it work even in moderate (but not extreme) snow. Granted it was a cheaper boat. I did this when shrink wrapping wasn't really an option for one reason or another. I did it on one boat successfully for about 4 seasons. Not the best maybe, but it worked. When I was a teenager I got a job helping a guy shrink wrap boats....it is a bit of an art form to do with and not overheat the plastic, etc.
It 100% depends on location. Most of these videos make no mention of geography, and that matters. Here in the Piedmont area of NC, it pretty much never snows anymore, and our winters are mild. Most people don’t fog their engines here, but some do. I’ve always removed the plugs from the block (I have always had inboard ski boats), let the water drain, but I don’t add antifreeze. My current boat is a’98 I bought new, and the plugs don’t like being removed and replaced so often, and they start going further into the block over the years. To remedy that, I’m now just warming the engine, pulling the hose that pulls the lake water through the hull, and putting that hose into a bucket of antifreeze and run the engine until I see antifreeze coming out the exhaust. This way, there’s antifreeze in the engine and exhaust system, but I don’t have to remove the plugs. It’s both easier and better for the engine.
An aluminum boat may freeze in the winter and condensation could occur in the fuel tank if empty or mostly empty - causing water to mix with fuel correct?
Boy I wish you guys were out here in Western Canada. I'm just starting to get serious about buying a boat. I have 2 in mind. a 1999 csx 23 with 168 hours and a 1980 Scimitar with unknown hours. I've binge watched a dozen or so of your videos today,, Dec 25, and it makes me wonder if they were winterized properly.
I keep my boat in my garage but one thing I do is to jack up the trailer and take the weight off the wheels and tires to keep the tires from flat spotting.
Have 3.0 I/o mercruiser. Can I just fill a huge pail with antifreeze and drop the lower unit in the pail that’s full of antifreeze and let it circulate. I can take the prop off. Let it run and fill up with antifreeze.
Should the outboard be stored up or down? If I leave it down the prop and lower unit are bound to be sitting covered in snow. I have a transom saver but what about the fluids?
I change the oil ij the spring. My reason is condensation in the oil over winter. Also, i put plumbing antifreeze in the cooling system after draining just to make sure theres no water.
Any condensation that may accrue in your engine over the winter will happen regardless whether the oil is fresh or used, and will quickly evaporate once you run the engine up to operating temps in the spring. If you change your oil in the fall, it's one less thing you have to do in the spring, and with lube prices steadily increasing, it may even save you a couple of bucks.
How do you put the antifreeze in the motor. Fill a tank and run the motor in the tank 🤔. I guess you could then put what's left back in jugs for the next year
@@JamesWhite-tg4kw the easiest way is to run a few feet of hose from the muffs to a jug of rv/boat antifreeze. Make sure to vent the jug. There's a lot of videos on UA-cam that will show you how.
@@JamesWhite-tg4kwI have a 350 Mercruiser. I pull the hoses off the thermostat housing and dump antifreeze in each one. All I'm really doing is flushing it. Store it all winter with plugs removed. Figured if there's any residual water, it's diluted with antifreeze. Tip. Level your engine before draining.
Im confused on your theory about filling/not filling the tank. I struggle with this decision. Its a cost thing for me. Filling the tanks would be about $700. Why would you get more condensation at 1/2 or 3/4 full then you would empty? Thank you in advance
The larger the volume of air in the tank, the more ability to condensate. Filling the fuel displaces the air. This is a tricky one the arguments on both sides (full vs. Empty)
@@CaptainTodd It won't counteract it. It's a trade off. Do you want a lot of old gas with less condensation or a bit of condensation with a fresh tank of fuel. You will get arguments for both.
I think the concern about condensation in the tanks is way overblown. First of all, water vapor would only condense on the sides of the tank if the walls are much colder than the internal ambient temp of the tank. But for the most part, the tank walls and the internal air temp will remain fairly close unless the outside temperature drops dramatically and quickly. This can happen, but even so, the maximum amount of condensation that could result from, say, a 70 gallon tank at 100% relative humidity is about a tablespoon. This is negligible and easily contained by the fuel water separator. Now someone might argue that new humid air can be constantly entering the tank through the vent and provide continuous condensation. But the air does not circulate in and out of the tank because the vent only pulls air in as fuel is depleted (plus you can tape over the fuel vents if concerned about this). Given the conditions needed for large scale condensation and the minute amount of water involved, I just don't see how this is an issue.
So we'll get snow, and I have a cover, but no access to indoor storage or shrink wrapping... what to do? Is there a way I can tarp it or something? To make matters worse, I have to store it bow-down, as there's no way to get it in it's space the other direction.
Back in the days before shrink wrap we called that “bridge and cover”. Basically you build a big saw horse that goes from bow to stern and is tall enough to provide enough slope for the tarp.
What’s a good way to remove and prevent moss/mold from growing in marine carpet? I have an ongoing battle with some in the lower parts where the sides meet the floor.
I have heard that people put a light bulb hanging on the inside in the boat and let it stay on for the winter season. How you need to get this done is entirly up to you, such an extension cord or something.
Great advice. The only other thing to do for me is to clean and service the wheel bearings if on a trailer. Water in the bearings and hubs can cause damage when frozen.
@@boatinglessons I've done that. A spare trashcan in the helm and a couple of buckets in the bow seem to have done the trick to prevent/reduce water collection. Before, it was collecting rain pretty badly and I'd have to spend 20 mins with a large drink cup bailing water before I could uncover and work on said boat (which obviously was loading the cover, not good!).
I swear this winterizing and tucking your boat away until spring is a scam from the boating industry everyone just fear factors into believing. 50% of us keep using our boats through the winter-because it’s amazing! Fine by me, only the real ones will be out on the river fishing.
Pronunciation is completely dependent on location. I say potable not poatable. There’s practically an unlimited number of examples in English of these.
Close your eyes when listening to this. It’s like listening to the Mr. Rogers of winter boat storage.
Yes...I can see the sweater now...
Yea- your correct haha
Great tips - subbed!
One thing I do with my 4 stroke Yamaha outboard, is instead of filling the air with smoke during fogging, I simply remove all the plugs and spray the fogging oil directly into the cylinders, then crank a little bit with the ignition lanyard pulled, then clean, gap, and replace the plugs. This gets all the oil directly to the internal surfaces without the stink and smoke.
I've been doing these for years and have been lucky enough to not have any problems. Great video to remind or inform the proper storage techniques
We appreciate your kind words. Sounds like you know what you are doing :). Where do you boat?
Great video. Really easy to forget all these little but very important things
Thank you!
In Minnesota it’s a stiff fine (up to $350) if you get caught going down the road with your drain plug in. You must pull the plug before you leave the boat launch to prevent the spread of invasive critters or plants.
So critters and plants are going to come out the 1” or less hole created by removing the bilge plug? Gotcha
@@ffhd1clt I think it's more about ensuring there is no standing water in the boat that invasive critters thrive in.
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 Thank you Sean , my first boat was a 71 Sidewinder, I made the mistake of snow and after market nylon cover, it was in rough shape to begin with how ever grateful it was not our 2018 Supreme that we have now. Appreciate every thing you do for everyone. This is why I share back with you .
Your first boat is always (almost) such a great memory. Thank you for your kind words :)
Especially like the tip on filling the tank if unable to drain it down at the end of the season. Thks.
so fabulous Lens Cove does these videos. I agree with all 7 of the items in this video👍. I just might have to choose you guys for my boating needs 😊
So nice of you to say, thank you! Do you boat in our area? 😊
Lake Ontario, but retiring soon and hopefully moving to small water 😊
@@machone35 we are happy to help whenever you need it, before or after retirement 😊
Great video, thank you for taking the time to make it!!
Our pleasure!
Great video. Would be nice to have a similar one for those of us who do not stop using our boats during the winter....basically I just drain all water and keep a heater in my engine bay when not using it. =)
Good for you! That is something g we rarely see this far North. Where are you located?
Vancouver Canada...it's beautiful in the winter...in a different way.@@boatinglessons
@@TMsite12 I bet! I lived there one winter through early spring...many....many years ago 🙂
I have a Evinrude e-tech 40. I go thru the winter shut down and my boat is garage stored. I had my hi pressure fuel pump go dry and locked up requiring a new pump $$.
Now I drain vapor separator and oil my pump internally. Clean it out in the spring and gas it up. Fish on!
Thank you! 👍
Our pleasure!
I drove by a dealership a few years back in the middle of the winter and no less than 5 boats were nose down. Due to: the tongue jack failing and heavy snow. We have a dedicated saw horse, tall enough to keep the nose high, that we use in conjunction with the tongue jack.
I have fishing boat with a removable fuel tank and one thing that I was taught when Winterizing was when you want to run all the fuel out of the system, disconnect the tank while its running so it literally pulls all the fuel from the lines and carb until it finally stalls. Of Course if you have fuel injection you probably don't want to do this.
Another great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you sir 🇺🇸
We just moved our pontoon to a new Marina and they are storing it directly on cement cinder blocks. Is this ok or should there be wood on top of the cinders before the pontoon is put on top?
Great info! Thanks for the video. QUESTION: Do you agree that there's no sense running antifreeze through the cooling system--you just need to drain everything properly?
I will say I have been successful buying oversized covers and putting small ladders in boat to create a very steep slope, cinching everything down well, and having it work even in moderate (but not extreme) snow. Granted it was a cheaper boat. I did this when shrink wrapping wasn't really an option for one reason or another. I did it on one boat successfully for about 4 seasons. Not the best maybe, but it worked.
When I was a teenager I got a job helping a guy shrink wrap boats....it is a bit of an art form to do with and not overheat the plastic, etc.
It 100% depends on location. Most of these videos make no mention of geography, and that matters. Here in the Piedmont area of NC, it pretty much never snows anymore, and our winters are mild. Most people don’t fog their engines here, but some do. I’ve always removed the plugs from the block (I have always had inboard ski boats), let the water drain, but I don’t add antifreeze. My current boat is a’98 I bought new, and the plugs don’t like being removed and replaced so often, and they start going further into the block over the years. To remedy that, I’m now just warming the engine, pulling the hose that pulls the lake water through the hull, and putting that hose into a bucket of antifreeze and run the engine until I see antifreeze coming out the exhaust. This way, there’s antifreeze in the engine and exhaust system, but I don’t have to remove the plugs. It’s both easier and better for the engine.
An aluminum boat may freeze in the winter and condensation could occur in the fuel tank if empty or mostly empty - causing water to mix with fuel correct?
Boy I wish you guys were out here in Western Canada. I'm just starting to get serious about buying a boat. I have 2 in mind. a 1999 csx 23 with 168 hours and a 1980 Scimitar with unknown hours. I've binge watched a dozen or so of your videos today,, Dec 25, and it makes me wonder if they were winterized properly.
Good luck in your search and I am glad the videos may have helped in some way. Feel free to contact me if you need any help.
I keep my boat in my garage but one thing I do is to jack up the trailer and take the weight off the wheels and tires to keep the tires from flat spotting.
I do exactly that. I then include a sign that I place on the hitch part of the trailer to remind me to remove the jacks before hooking/towing.
I have seen others do that also. We store 100s of boats on their trailers with the tires on the ground/weight bearing.
Have 3.0 I/o mercruiser. Can I just fill a huge pail with antifreeze and drop the lower unit in the pail that’s full of antifreeze and let it circulate. I can take the prop off. Let it run and fill up with antifreeze.
Do you have to do the same steps if you keep your boat in the garage?
Should the outboard be stored up or down? If I leave it down the prop and lower unit are bound to be sitting covered in snow. I have a transom saver but what about the fluids?
Ideally, they are stored down so they drain properly. The lower unit getting a bit of snow around it won’t hurt anything.
I took the single point drain system off my boat - I like to pull the plugs and poke wire up each hole.
I change the oil ij the spring. My reason is condensation in the oil over winter. Also, i put plumbing antifreeze in the cooling system after draining just to make sure theres no water.
Any condensation that may accrue in your engine over the winter will happen regardless whether the oil is fresh or used, and will quickly evaporate once you run the engine up to operating temps in the spring. If you change your oil in the fall, it's one less thing you have to do in the spring, and with lube prices steadily increasing, it may even save you a couple of bucks.
@nephewbob7264 more likely foam than evaporate, but I'm sure it doesn't make much difference either way.
How do you put the antifreeze in the motor. Fill a tank and run the motor in the tank 🤔. I guess you could then put what's left back in jugs for the next year
@@JamesWhite-tg4kw the easiest way is to run a few feet of hose from the muffs to a jug of rv/boat antifreeze. Make sure to vent the jug. There's a lot of videos on UA-cam that will show you how.
@@JamesWhite-tg4kwI have a 350 Mercruiser. I pull the hoses off the thermostat housing and dump antifreeze in each one. All I'm really doing is flushing it. Store it all winter with plugs removed. Figured if there's any residual water, it's diluted with antifreeze.
Tip. Level your engine before draining.
What about fogging oil?
How long is a long storage? If you use it in winter? For fishing here in the south.
this video is wicked
I have a 2023 200hp xs mercury outboard when winterizing engine is it important to fog engine
In our opinion, no - that is not important and can lead to other issues (clogged injectors, etc.)
Im confused on your theory about filling/not filling the tank. I struggle with this decision. Its a cost thing for me. Filling the tanks would be about $700. Why would you get more condensation at 1/2 or 3/4 full then you would empty? Thank you in advance
The larger the volume of air in the tank, the more ability to condensate. Filling the fuel displaces the air. This is a tricky one the arguments on both sides (full vs. Empty)
@boatinglessons With that being said is the idea leave it empty and in the spring all the fresh gas will counteract the condensation that built up?
@@CaptainTodd It won't counteract it. It's a trade off. Do you want a lot of old gas with less condensation or a bit of condensation with a fresh tank of fuel. You will get arguments for both.
@@boatinglessons I get it now. Thanks for the replies. I'm going with fresh gas in the spring!!
I think the concern about condensation in the tanks is way overblown. First of all, water vapor would only condense on the sides of the tank if the walls are much colder than the internal ambient temp of the tank. But for the most part, the tank walls and the internal air temp will remain fairly close unless the outside temperature drops dramatically and quickly. This can happen, but even so, the maximum amount of condensation that could result from, say, a 70 gallon tank at 100% relative humidity is about a tablespoon. This is negligible and easily contained by the fuel water separator. Now someone might argue that new humid air can be constantly entering the tank through the vent and provide continuous condensation. But the air does not circulate in and out of the tank because the vent only pulls air in as fuel is depleted (plus you can tape over the fuel vents if concerned about this). Given the conditions needed for large scale condensation and the minute amount of water involved, I just don't see how this is an issue.
Don't agree with his fuel tip, keep it full fuel does not go bad in 3 months, but it will condensate moisture, just put a stabilizer in.
Agreed fill the tank to keep out moisture. Add a stabilizer and your good to go
So we'll get snow, and I have a cover, but no access to indoor storage or shrink wrapping... what to do? Is there a way I can tarp it or something? To make matters worse, I have to store it bow-down, as there's no way to get it in it's space the other direction.
Back in the days before shrink wrap we called that “bridge and cover”. Basically you build a big saw horse that goes from bow to stern and is tall enough to provide enough slope for the tarp.
Yes, that works too (old school and yet effective)
What’s a good way to remove and prevent moss/mold from growing in marine carpet? I have an ongoing battle with some in the lower parts where the sides meet the floor.
To be honest, I do not know anyway to truly prevent it. The combination of moisture, shade, and pollen spores in the air make it tough
I have heard that people put a light bulb hanging on the inside in the boat and let it stay on for the winter season. How you need to get this done is entirly up to you, such an extension cord or something.
Great advice. The only other thing to do for me is to clean and service the wheel bearings if on a trailer. Water in the bearings and hubs can cause damage when frozen.
Great advice on the wheel bearings, thanks!
Dry it as much as possible and spray diluted vinegar to prevent mold.
What if you periodically charge the batteries through the winter?
Yes, some people do that.
Supposedly the cover I bought for my boat (1976 Starcraft Montego 18) is snow rated. And I live in a relatively light snow area...
Make sure it is well supported at least 🤞🏻
@@boatinglessons I've done that. A spare trashcan in the helm and a couple of buckets in the bow seem to have done the trick to prevent/reduce water collection. Before, it was collecting rain pretty badly and I'd have to spend 20 mins with a large drink cup bailing water before I could uncover and work on said boat (which obviously was loading the cover, not good!).
Worst time of year…… followed by the best in the spring!! Nice video with useless tips for sure!!
Mild and moldew. That's gonna ruin my brain for weeks 😂
what if i wanna use my boat all winter tho damn....
Mild and moldew
😂
Yep - should have caught that in editing:)
Regarding tip number one ..... where in Ontario where I believe you are located are you able to buy ethanol free gasoline?
We have it in eastern Ontario, provided by Stinson fuels
Ethanol free gas is available in the wahta territory near bala. 👍
@@joelbarden2454 Have you checked with Bala Cove Marina?
@@boatinglessons Thanks for the reply . I didn't realize it was still available anywhere in Canada.
@@joelbarden2454 Thank you for the reply
Ethanol has its issues with water but the real cause of water in fuel is condensation
You are not wrong, they are both to blame. Ethanol is a hydrophilic compound, which means it naturally attracts water
water causes the ethanol to gel up.
Mild and Moldew
WTF is Mild & Moldew?
We should have caught that in editing 🤣
I swear this winterizing and tucking your boat away until spring is a scam from the boating industry everyone just fear factors into believing. 50% of us keep using our boats through the winter-because it’s amazing! Fine by me, only the real ones will be out on the river fishing.
Guess you’re not in Canada!
Or Michigan.
Always heard it pronounced Potable but really who cares 😂
Did I miss say it? Totally possible! I get nervous 😉
good video, but potable is not pronounced "pot-able" - its pronounced "poat-able" - poat like boat
Pronunciation is completely dependent on location. I say potable not poatable. There’s practically an unlimited number of examples in English of these.
Not in any dictionary I use but if you say so….
@@StaceGordon-qn5se yeah I say so as well as hundreds of millions of English speakers around the world. They’re called accents.
Just no UK or US dictionaries agree with you. But you must be a linguistic expert. Agree to disagree - I’m out.
Glad to have sparked such healthy debate ;)
Mild and moldew