Geez. Makes me feel like I'm cutting corners. Lol.. Great video, very thorough. Above and beyond what most do. Although Minnesota gets cold. I just do oil, fuel filter, outdrive gear oil, drain block and fill with coolant, then throw some fuel stabilizer in the tank. Thanks for the video..
Yeah, my wife points out that I sometimes overdo it! With all the cracked block stories I’ve heard, I get really nervous about messing up the boat. I’d hate to wreck it!
Dude, you see that threaded piece of brass just below your oil dipstick ? It looks kinda like the coarse threads for a water hose. There's a pump that screws on to that and has a long straw attached to it. The straw goes down in to the oil pan, and the oil can easily be sucked right out of the dipstick hole with just a few minutes of pumping by hand. That's how I do it every year, and it's super easy.
Thanks for the tip! When I made the video I didnt have a pump, so I just waited the 1.5 hours. I actually bought a pump recently for jet ski oil changes, so I’ll try that.
Hi J Fike- I drained the block the first time because the temperatures where I live we’re going to be in the 20’s. I removed that step from the final checklist shown at the end of the video. Thanks for watching!
Oh my... Respectfully, stop thinking these thermostats are open enough to pass antifreeze while the engine is at idle. The antifreeze you see being discharging out the back of the boat while inducing through the ear muffs has taken the path of least resistance through the exhaust manifold's only. The thermostat is only burping small amounts of water while the engine is at idle in your driveway. The only way to correctly be sure all freshwater has been eliminated from the engine is to remove the blue plugs, poke the drain openings with a small screwdriver, allow all water to drain, replace the blue plugs, then fill the engine block and manifold(s) with OEM -50 or -100 non toxic antifreeze that contains a corrosion inhibitor! To fill the engine and manifolds with antifreeze, simply disconnect 2 manifold hoses from the thermostat housing and pour 1/2 gal of antifreeze into each, disconnect the top of the circulator pump elbow hose and por 2 gals into it. Obviously some applications will vary ...
Hi @Christopher Kiely- thanks for your informed comments. I do make sure the engine is being held at operating temp by the thermostat before I introduce the antifreeze. I also certainly poke a wire up the holes when I remove blue plugs. While the method you describe sounds great and by-the-book, the method I’m showing seems to work down to -40F. This boat is a 2006 and runs like new. The previous owner used this same method of winterizing, but perhaps we’re getting lucky. I do hope viewers read the comments and weigh the options and risks. I certainly did before trying to winterize on my own. I appreciate your perspective on this.
Did you drain the water after you warmed the motor enough for the thermostat to open and before you ran the anti-freeze through? I'm getting ready to do mine and was thinking I could just run the muffs with water to warm the engine and then run 5 gallons of anti freeze through and then all the engine plugs to drain.
If you are storing your boat where you can see it I'd say leave your SS prop on but otherwise they hot items and wouldn't store it on the boat over the winter. Everyone uses the pink antifreeze which is environmentally safe but it turns to slush inside the engine block and could possibly crack it. I'm a firm believer in the green antifreeze which we used in our 1986 Celebrity boat and never had any problems what so ever. I've seen too many boats with cracked engine blocks with people using the pink antifreeze. Not a fan of the stuff! Its meant for winterizing cottages and that's it.
Hi Paul Mazzola - good point on the prop! It came on this boat, but I looked it up and yeah-not cheap! Fortunately I can finally store the boat in our new garage this winter. (First time ever!) I did notice a bottle of pink antifreeze in my garage turned to slush last winter. I don’t recall if it bulged there bottle at all though. I guess it’s good that I drained out the antifreeze after flushing it. Regarding the green stuff, are you talking about the hazardous old green antifreeze? (The stuff they say will kill your neighbors dog.) I end up with about 4 gallons of the pink stuff on the ground, so I wouldn’t want to be so haphazard with the more toxic stuff. Thanks for commenting!
I agree, we dont use that pink stuff only in the spray hoses where we have drinking water... the engine gets real antifreeze like you would use in a car engine.
Hello, Master! Is there any water in the engine? In order to prevent freezing in winter, how to drain the engine and other facilities? thank you very much!
I was taught to use an anti-freeze that has corrosion inhibitors and helps prevent rust from forming inside the engine (not the cheaper RV anti-freeze, which is not intended for engine blocks). Furthermore, I was taught to leave the anti-freeze in the block to help protect the engine from forming rust internally while in storage. It makes no sense to re-drain the block when the anti-freeze will coat the engine and help prevent corrosion internally. Otherwise, why would you bother to pay more for the more expensive anti-freeze.
Hi Kenneth Cooper- yes I see your point and considered keeping the antifreeze in. Based on a local dealers procedure, I decided to drain it. Regarding corrosion inhibitors, there are some good looking options out there (Star Brite), but for me the cost puts me up to a point where I might just pay someone else to winterize for me. I hope viewers read the comments and weigh the options and risks to decide what they are comfortable with. This method keeps my 2006 boat running like new, so I’m comfortable with what I do. Thanks for your perspective on this.
You’re the second person to make that comment. I asked the first person why they thought that and never got a reply. Maybe you can tell me. Exhaust and water are supposed to be discharged through the exhaust ports on the transom ring, with some coming from the prop. Is there something I’m missing?
Thanks for the video, question. Why did you first show all 5 drain plugs, drain them then start the motor again to add the antifreeze? Seems like you got all the water out then put more in with the antifreeze. Thanks
Hi Stillman Parker - I was winterizing pretty late in the fall. I had to drain the block earlier because we were expecting a good freeze the next couple nights. You wouldn’t normally need to do that. Thanks for the question!
Hi Bob- I did not ask them about the reasoning, but it would be interesting to know. I think things would be ok either way, honestly. Thanks for watching!
If I were a betting man, it’s probably because they winterize several boats with that antifreeze so it’s more profitable and there’s probably no benefit of leaving antifreeze in it.
Old thread but, my thought process is that the pink stuff still freezes. It's just not supposed to expand enough to damage anything. Removing as much as possible reduces that risk even further.
Steve, Just winterizing my 2006 Crowline 21' Classic I just bought --- great instructions. Thanks. Question, how do you remove the front part of the engine compartment that the back seats lean up against - looks like maybe 2 bolts on each side? Thanks if you can help on this.
Hi Roger- I’m not sure on yours. The top half of my back seats lift up with the sundeck when I open the engine compartment. Then I just have a circular hole in the storage area below the back seats where I can access the front of the engine. My boat is still covered up from the winter, so I can’t look more closely right now. If there’s something I can check for you when I unwrap it, just let me know. I’m excited to get it out for the season. Thanks!
Hi Steve- What do you do when summer rolls around and it is time to start your boat up for the first time? Do you refill the coolant system prior to starting the boat? If so, how do you do that?
Hi @David Venne - i reinstall the battery first. Then I hook up a garden hose to a set of muffs that seat over the lower unit water intake. Turn on the water, then fire up the boat. Once it’s up to temp i shut off the engine and turn off the water. After that, the boat is ready for the lake. Thanks for watching and commenting!
there two large hoses and two smaller hoses in the front, you can disconnect to fill anti-freeze. You don't need 5 gallons, less then 2. No need to drain! I have been using Quicksilver 25W-40 Marine Engine Oil wouldn't 20W-50 be suitable for motorcycle engines?
So you opened all the blue plugs and drained the water, then you put the muffs on and ran it till warm using tap water? That would fill the motor again. If you ran it with no water it would warm up fast just before you opened the pail of antifreeze.
Hi @Murray D- I didn’t explain it well, but I had to drain the block early because there was some 20 degree weather coming. I eliminated that step and only pull the plugs at the end after antifreeze is in the block. Never run it dry. The impeller for your water pump can get hot or stick causing some form of damage. Good luck!
Hi Steve,great video! Thank you very much! I have a question: in the final checklist why did you “pull all 5 water drain plugs” in the end? In my area usually leave antifreeze in the blocks.
Hi @Minecraft & roblox - You could probably leave the plugs in and be just fine. A boat service shop by me said they always pull the plugs to drain it. I think the theory is that if there is any small bit of water anywhere in the block, it will have room to expand without damaging anything. The chances of that seem very small, so you’re probably good. Any water stuck in a nook of the block would get mixed with antifreeze, so expansion shouldn’t be an issue. Good question! Thanks!
Thanks Steve! I have also heard a statement about rust prevention, if the antifreeze is not drained!My engine used to be winterized at the store before, and the first time I used it the next year, if I open the plug, antifreeze would flow out. I am in Canada and the extreme outside temperature in winter is around -40 degree. For reference.
Hi again- that’s interesting to hear. I guess I’m not confident enough to weigh in on the rust prevention question. We bottom out around -40 (C and F!) as well. I did get another comment recently pointing out that the pink antifreeze does turn to slush in the cold, which i have experienced in my garage in the bottles. I’m not sure if it expands like straight water, but it might be worth a web search, or better yet an at-home trial!
In the video I had to pull the plugs early due to freezing temps that night. My sequence is warm it up on water, run it with the antifreeze hose, stop it and pull the plugs. The checklist sequence is good. I also have a vid of the checklist only if you need it. Thanks!
@@NashwaukSteve hey, thanks for the reply. I have a 1996 mastercraft with Indmar 350 EFI 275hp , i cant seem to get indmar to reply. im ok with the 2 block drains and the two manifold drains, im seeking help on what other parts i need to drain for winterization. DO you know where I can get help on this specific engine ?
Hi there! You can drain the antifreeze immediately if you wish. Once it’s gotten into all the nooks and crannies, you can drain the rest out. The only reason I wait is so I don’t burn my hands when I pull the blue plugs out! Good luck!
don't drain it out. its always better to have a lubricant in your engine then just air. There is not reason to drain it out unless your going to take it right to the marina and not test tire at home.
Hi JW Shaw- Thanks for the comment! Ive had others request the checklist too. Is there a way to post it somewhere on the web? I’d be happy to share it, but want to avoid folks having to post their email addresses in comments.
Hi Nigel! Thanks for watching. I don’t really have a way to send it, but I did show a still shot of it at the end of the vid, so you can copy it. I hope it is helpful! I just went through my second winterizing a few weeks ago!
Oh my God, I would never buy an inboard engine. My 4 stroke merc outboard......all you do is tilt the engine down and your done, all the water drains, change the oil and foot oil, put the Batts on a trickle charger and your done. So much better and you can fully tilt up in shallow water and loading into the water, sorry guys don't see 1 advantage to an inboard.......?........
This video is a lot of valuable info. Thank you so much!
You're so welcome! I refer back to it every year myself
Geez. Makes me feel like I'm cutting corners. Lol.. Great video, very thorough. Above and beyond what most do. Although Minnesota gets cold. I just do oil, fuel filter, outdrive gear oil, drain block and fill with coolant, then throw some fuel stabilizer in the tank. Thanks for the video..
Yeah, my wife points out that I sometimes overdo it! With all the cracked block stories I’ve heard, I get really nervous about messing up the boat. I’d hate to wreck it!
Dude, you see that threaded piece of brass just below your oil dipstick ? It looks kinda like the coarse threads for a water hose. There's a pump that screws on to that and has a long straw attached to it. The straw goes down in to the oil pan, and the oil can easily be sucked right out of the dipstick hole with just a few minutes of pumping by hand. That's how I do it every year, and it's super easy.
Thanks for the tip! When I made the video I didnt have a pump, so I just waited the 1.5 hours. I actually bought a pump recently for jet ski oil changes, so I’ll try that.
you drained the block then ran with water to warm up? make no sense to me
Hi J Fike- I drained the block the first time because the temperatures where I live we’re going to be in the 20’s. I removed that step from the final checklist shown at the end of the video. Thanks for watching!
Oh my... Respectfully, stop thinking these thermostats are open enough to pass antifreeze while the engine is at idle. The antifreeze you see being discharging out the back of the boat while inducing through the ear muffs has taken the path of least resistance through the exhaust manifold's only. The thermostat is only burping small amounts of water while the engine is at idle in your driveway. The only way to correctly be sure all freshwater has been eliminated from the engine is to remove the blue plugs, poke the drain openings with a small screwdriver, allow all water to drain, replace the blue plugs, then fill the engine block and manifold(s) with OEM -50 or -100 non toxic antifreeze that contains a corrosion inhibitor! To fill the engine and manifolds with antifreeze, simply disconnect 2 manifold hoses from the thermostat housing and pour 1/2 gal of antifreeze into each, disconnect the top of the circulator pump elbow hose and por 2 gals into it. Obviously some applications will vary ...
Hi @Christopher Kiely- thanks for your informed comments. I do make sure the engine is being held at operating temp by the thermostat before I introduce the antifreeze. I also certainly poke a wire up the holes when I remove blue plugs. While the method you describe sounds great and by-the-book, the method I’m showing seems to work down to -40F. This boat is a 2006 and runs like new. The previous owner used this same method of winterizing, but perhaps we’re getting lucky.
I do hope viewers read the comments and weigh the options and risks. I certainly did before trying to winterize on my own.
I appreciate your perspective on this.
Did you drain the water after you warmed the motor enough for the thermostat to open and before you ran the anti-freeze through? I'm getting ready to do mine and was thinking I could just run the muffs with water to warm the engine and then run 5 gallons of anti freeze through and then all the engine plugs to drain.
If you are storing your boat where you can see it I'd say leave your SS prop on but otherwise they hot items and wouldn't store it on the boat over the winter. Everyone uses the pink antifreeze which is environmentally safe but it turns to slush inside the engine block and could possibly crack it. I'm a firm believer in the green antifreeze which we used in our 1986 Celebrity boat and never had any problems what so ever. I've seen too many boats with cracked engine blocks with people using the pink antifreeze. Not a fan of the stuff! Its meant for winterizing cottages and that's it.
Hi Paul Mazzola - good point on the prop! It came on this boat, but I looked it up and yeah-not cheap! Fortunately I can finally store the boat in our new garage this winter. (First time ever!)
I did notice a bottle of pink antifreeze in my garage turned to slush last winter. I don’t recall if it bulged there bottle at all though. I guess it’s good that I drained out the antifreeze after flushing it.
Regarding the green stuff, are you talking about the hazardous old green antifreeze? (The stuff they say will kill your neighbors dog.) I end up with about 4 gallons of the pink stuff on the ground, so I wouldn’t want to be so haphazard with the more toxic stuff.
Thanks for commenting!
I agree, we dont use that pink stuff only in the spray hoses where we have drinking water... the engine gets real antifreeze like you would use in a car engine.
Great video! Thanks.
Hello, Master! Is there any water in the engine? In order to prevent freezing in winter, how to drain the engine and other facilities? thank you very much!
Love the Bison jacket
Class of ‘04!
Class of 1979! Watching Bison take it to Valpo this afternoon
Same here! Time to make up for last season!
I was taught to use an anti-freeze that has corrosion inhibitors and helps prevent rust from forming inside the engine (not the cheaper RV anti-freeze, which is not intended for engine blocks). Furthermore, I was taught to leave the anti-freeze in the block to help protect the engine from forming rust internally while in storage. It makes no sense to re-drain the block when the anti-freeze will coat the engine and help prevent corrosion internally. Otherwise, why would you bother to pay more for the more expensive anti-freeze.
Hi Kenneth Cooper- yes I see your point and considered keeping the antifreeze in. Based on a local dealers procedure, I decided to drain it. Regarding corrosion inhibitors, there are some good looking options out there (Star Brite), but for me the cost puts me up to a point where I might just pay someone else to winterize for me.
I hope viewers read the comments and weigh the options and risks to decide what they are comfortable with. This method keeps my 2006 boat running like new, so I’m comfortable with what I do.
Thanks for your perspective on this.
Exhaust Bellows is BLOWN OUT !!
You’re the second person to make that comment. I asked the first person why they thought that and never got a reply. Maybe you can tell me. Exhaust and water are supposed to be discharged through the exhaust ports on the transom ring, with some coming from the prop. Is there something I’m missing?
Thanks for the video, question. Why did you first show all 5 drain plugs, drain them then start the motor again to add the antifreeze? Seems like you got all the water out then put more in with the antifreeze. Thanks
Hi Stillman Parker - I was winterizing pretty late in the fall. I had to drain the block earlier because we were expecting a good freeze the next couple nights. You wouldn’t normally need to do that. Thanks for the question!
Hey Steve. Did you ask your contact why they suggest to drain the antifreeze after? Thanks for this excellent video. Happy boating!
Hi Bob- I did not ask them about the reasoning, but it would be interesting to know. I think things would be ok either way, honestly. Thanks for watching!
If I were a betting man, it’s probably because they winterize several boats with that antifreeze so it’s more profitable and there’s probably no benefit of leaving antifreeze in it.
Old thread but, my thought process is that the pink stuff still freezes. It's just not supposed to expand enough to damage anything. Removing as much as possible reduces that risk even further.
Steve,
Just winterizing my 2006 Crowline 21' Classic I just bought --- great instructions. Thanks. Question, how do you remove the front part of the engine compartment that the back seats lean up against - looks like maybe 2 bolts on each side? Thanks if you can help on this.
Hi Roger- I’m not sure on yours. The top half of my back seats lift up with the sundeck when I open the engine compartment. Then I just have a circular hole in the storage area below the back seats where I can access the front of the engine.
My boat is still covered up from the winter, so I can’t look more closely right now. If there’s something I can check for you when I unwrap it, just let me know. I’m excited to get it out for the season. Thanks!
Hi Steve-
What do you do when summer rolls around and it is time to start your boat up for the first time? Do you refill the coolant system prior to starting the boat? If so, how do you do that?
Hi @David Venne - i reinstall the battery first. Then I hook up a garden hose to a set of muffs that seat over the lower unit water intake. Turn on the water, then fire up the boat. Once it’s up to temp i shut off the engine and turn off the water. After that, the boat is ready for the lake. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the info! Your videos are great. Please keep them coming!
there two large hoses and two smaller hoses in the front, you can disconnect to fill anti-freeze. You don't need 5 gallons, less then 2. No need to drain!
I have been using Quicksilver 25W-40 Marine Engine Oil wouldn't 20W-50 be suitable for motorcycle engines?
Thanks for your comment.
So you opened all the blue plugs and drained the water, then you put the muffs on and ran it till warm using tap water? That would fill the motor again. If you ran it with no water it would warm up fast just before you opened the pail of antifreeze.
Hi @Murray D- I didn’t explain it well, but I had to drain the block early because there was some 20 degree weather coming. I eliminated that step and only pull the plugs at the end after antifreeze is in the block. Never run it dry. The impeller for your water pump can get hot or stick causing some form of damage. Good luck!
@@NashwaukSteve - Ah okay.
Hi Steve,great video! Thank you very much!
I have a question: in the final checklist why did you “pull all 5 water drain plugs” in the end? In my area usually leave antifreeze in the blocks.
Hi @Minecraft & roblox - You could probably leave the plugs in and be just fine. A boat service shop by me said they always pull the plugs to drain it. I think the theory is that if there is any small bit of water anywhere in the block, it will have room to expand without damaging anything. The chances of that seem very small, so you’re probably good. Any water stuck in a nook of the block would get mixed with antifreeze, so expansion shouldn’t be an issue. Good question! Thanks!
Thanks Steve! I have also heard a statement about rust prevention, if the antifreeze is not drained!My engine used to be winterized at the store before, and the first time I used it the next year, if I open the plug, antifreeze would flow out. I am in Canada and the extreme outside temperature in winter is around -40 degree. For reference.
Hi again- that’s interesting to hear. I guess I’m not confident enough to weigh in on the rust prevention question. We bottom out around -40 (C and F!) as well.
I did get another comment recently pointing out that the pink antifreeze does turn to slush in the cold, which i have experienced in my garage in the bottles. I’m not sure if it expands like straight water, but it might be worth a web search, or better yet an at-home trial!
@@NashwaukSteve Everything I read says it will get slushy but not expand.
Hi Cheap Me- yeah that makes sense. The bottle says good to -50F undiluted. And I’ve seen it look slushy in the -20 range.
Hi friend do you know what size cable stilling wheels please let me know thank you
Are you from Nashwauk, MN? Hibbing here.
Hi there! Yes indeed I’m from Nashwauk. Well Nashwauk Township, technically. Only a few local folks have found my alter ego on UA-cam!
What about the power steering cooler? I thought there was something to drain there too.
Hi LostUpNorth- good question! Mine does not have power steering, so I can’t tell you about that. I hope you can find a good answer somewhere!
Steve, would you be willing to share that checklist that I saw in the video?
Here’s the best I could do: ua-cam.com/video/Qs4vjAbXWyU/v-deo.html
Hi. Bit confused. Did you warm engine up with water , then pull drain plugs , then run engine with anti freeze ?
In the video I had to pull the plugs early due to freezing temps that night. My sequence is warm it up on water, run it with the antifreeze hose, stop it and pull the plugs. The checklist sequence is good. I also have a vid of the checklist only if you need it. Thanks!
@@NashwaukSteve hey, thanks for the reply. I have a 1996 mastercraft with Indmar 350 EFI 275hp , i cant seem to get indmar to reply. im ok with the 2 block drains and the two manifold drains, im seeking help on what other parts i need to drain for winterization. DO you know where I can get help on this specific engine ?
How long does antifreeze need to sit in the motor before you drain the blocks?
Hi there! You can drain the antifreeze immediately if you wish. Once it’s gotten into all the nooks and crannies, you can drain the rest out. The only reason I wait is so I don’t burn my hands when I pull the blue plugs out! Good luck!
don't drain it out. its always better to have a lubricant in your engine then just air. There is not reason to drain it out unless your going to take it right to the marina and not test tire at home.
Was that drain hose already attached kr did you buy the kit
The hose was already attached when I got the boat. It certainly makes oil changes clean, but very slow!
hello, could you please post link or file of checklist, nicely done.
Hi JW Shaw- Thanks for the comment! Ive had others request the checklist too. Is there a way to post it somewhere on the web? I’d be happy to share it, but want to avoid folks having to post their email addresses in comments.
Really good video, thanks Steve! Make another video to show the checklist will be intuitive.
Here’s the checklist for your use!
ua-cam.com/video/Qs4vjAbXWyU/v-deo.html
your exhaust bellows is off on your outdrive
Hi Jerad Louzy- what makes you think that? I’ll certainly take a close look when I get the boat out in the spring. Thanks!
Do you have the checklist to winterize the engine for me? Maybe you can send?
Hi Nigel! Thanks for watching. I don’t really have a way to send it, but I did show a still shot of it at the end of the vid, so you can copy it. I hope it is helpful! I just went through my second winterizing a few weeks ago!
I finally got the mercruiser checklist posted. Here you go!
ua-cam.com/video/Qs4vjAbXWyU/v-deo.html
Best to suck the oil out.
Oh my God, I would never buy an inboard engine. My 4 stroke merc outboard......all you do is tilt the engine down and your done, all the water drains, change the oil and foot oil, put the Batts on a trickle charger and your done. So much better and you can fully tilt up in shallow water and loading into the water, sorry guys don't see 1 advantage to an inboard.......?........
Power, ease of maintenance on the motor, cheaper. A 5.0L outboard is very expensive
Because a v-8 engine is way cooler. 😁 To each their own. 👍🏼
Because.... V8. Enough said. Did you hear it running? More than enough said.