Exercises for Healthy Finger Tendons for Climbing: Pt 2 with Eric Hörst
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- The health of our tendons is such an important part of climbing and at one point in your climbing experience, you’ll likely start feeling soreness on your fingers or your elbow or shoulder. At that point, you’re at a crossroad - one way is down a path of injury and the other path is recovery. This mini-series was created to help you go down the path of recovery so that you can keep climbing, injury-free.
Part 1 - the science of healthy tendons
Part 2 - exercise and physical training you can do to have healthy tendons
Part 3 - nutrition, which paired with healthy exercise, can help reduce tendon injury
Referenced Links:
Training for Climbing Blog: trainingforclimbing.com/
Training for Climbing book: physivantage.com/products/tra...
Training for Climbing YT Channel: / @training4climbing
Physivantage Collegen: physivantage.com/products/sup...
Awesome Training for Climbing Podcast: podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast...
0:00 when you recognize your tendons are sore, what should you do?
1:01 how to get the most out of training on sore tendons
1:22 training regimen for safe progression
2:37 training tendons off the wall
CLIMBING BLOG: sendedition.com/
My recommended climbing gear here: sendedition.com/guide-for-cli...
What I use for filming these videos: sendedition.com/video-photo-s... - Навчання та стиль
Amazing Part 2! Thank you, again, so much :)
This is just what I needed! Thanks for sharing a great interview!
These videos are amazing! Thank you so much, it’s really helpful.
Love it, thank you !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video perfect explanation beautifully concise :)
This is so helpful, thank you for having this conversation! I've only been climbing for about 6 months and have been doing research about how to avoid injury (as someone who always over does it when It comes to physical activity) and this is some of the best advice I've found so far.
I’m glad you enjoyed the video - thank you for your kind comment! It sounds like you’re ahead of the game compared to most climbers that look for preventing injury after an injury has already occurred - good luck :)
This is extremely good information. We use the same principles in competitive armwrestling; another tendon-based sport. 💪👌
This is a really good video. Thank you so much and keep up the good work.
I’m glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
Just started climbing a little over a month ago and last week had such sore fingers! I'm so happy I found your channel and ESPECIALLY this video!
Great to hear it was helpful! I hope your fingers heal up quickly and you're able to climb more :)
I've come back to climbing after a 10 year break, and the day after my third session, where I think I really overdid it anyways, I spent pretty much all day reading a really long ebook on my phone. Now the tendon in my thumb and forefinger has been sore for a few days, and I'm sure it's the combo of both, plus working on the computer, that caused it X) It's a pretty silly issue to be having! Anyways I'm glad to see this video series, which has been really helpful. I've really mistreated my tendons a lot in my other sport of choice (hiking/backpacking) so this is really good advice all round! Thanks!
Great video - identified the important talk points and let the speaker express his thoughts clearly without interrupting (something many youtubers need to learn from). Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wow! This is amazing! I’m just coming off of about 3 months hardcore training, off a month and back on till this past late June. And yes, my tendons are just NOW finally getting back to pre-training shape. Wish I’d seen these videos sooner, LOL! I got his book and am reading it now. Very good info! Thanks for posting these!
I'm glad your tendons are starting to feel better! He has some great books so I'm glad you're enjoying it :)
Thank you for the sponge analogy. The visual is very helpful in understanding how my connective tissues receive nutrients.
Glad it was helpful!
This include principiants?
Any suggetion for tfcc injury also wrist click problem?
Sending this to my homie who knows he should rest but then shows up at the gym anyway 🙃
There are not nearly enough videos on this. Between climbing and BJJ there has to be far more people that need this information. I'm a BJJ guy and hope this helps.
@@uberjackkde benefits to both.
Why is it that I can watch tons of videos about Ehlers Danlos Syndrome (which is a genetic condition that affects the connective tissue) and they never say any of this stuff --- but I find it here on a climbing video?
Yes I have hEDS (hypermobile ehlers danlos syndrome).. All of my joints are very hypermobile. But I am careful what I eat + do. I do ride horses + I can walk 14 miles and I do safe yoga too.
I would like to try some light ckimbing at a gym. To see if it would be a safe exercise for my arms. I mean it looks fun? But I would have no intention of doing those "hard" routes. That would not be my goal. But I would like to learn how to fall safely. And how to feel "safe" with falling.
I have learned the emergency dismount from a tall horse. Yet I am scared to just let myself fall backwards onto the grass, etc, while standing on the grass. My brain thinks it is "dangerous". 😐 so i think some very simple climbing may help with this anxiety i have.
And often I think 1 foot off the ground is "high". 😂 even if my horse is way taller than that! Yeah I am riding the tallest horse at the ranch!
Did I mention I have autism?? 😊
Hi! I think am experiencing soreness at my A2 pulley (ring finger) from climbing ytd. I find it hard to straighten and bend my ring finger today. :( Thankful to have come across your video.
Should i start this regimen today? How long should i wait to start this? & What would be the indication for me to go back and climb? i am preparing to climb outdoors soon.
Thanks!
Bending and straightening your fingers is a good indication that you may have an injured finger :( I’m a little late to seeing this so I hope everything is ok! Did you already start climbing again and how are your fingers now?
Hey joyce!
Maybe that answer is a little late, but maybe it still helps you out!
For how long you've been climbing?
How many times a week do you go?
How does your nutrition look like?
If you are a beginner, your tendons need alot of time to develop, don't do dynos on small crimps, or campusing on small crimps, work your way up, from jugs to pinches etc. And don't try to jump 3 grades just because you're psyched, that's for sure a big reason why people get injured when they climb. What also helps is to put your fingers in cold water from time to time, the bllod flow will be afterwards a little better and always listen to your body, especially your fingers, hope i could help you a little bit out.
Outstanding information. My sport is armwrestling and having all this information I learned be reinforced by such knowledgeable people is majorly motivating. Tendons - I feel like they're the key to take humans to the next level of sport performance - we just have to keep researching, learning, evolving, growing, etc. Thank you for the content! On to video 3 xD 💪🦾