The Science of Tendons and Climbing: Pt 1 with Eric Hörst
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- The health of our tendons is such an important part of climbing and at one point in your climbing experience, you’ll likely start feeling soreness on your fingers or your elbow or shoulder. At that point, you’re at a crossroad - one way is down a path of injury and the other path is recovery. This mini-series was created to help you go down the path of recovery so that you can keep climbing, injury-free.
Part 1 - the science of healthy tendons
Part 2 - exercise and physical training you can do to have healthy tendons
Part 3 - nutrition, which paired with healthy exercise, can help reduce tendon injury
Referenced Links:
Training for Climbing Blog: trainingforclimbing.com/
Training for Climbing book: physivantage.com/products/tra...
Training for Climbing YT Channel: / @training4climbing
Physivantage Collegen: physivantage.com/products/sup...
Awesome Training for Climbing Podcast: podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast...
0:00 when you recognize your tendons are sore, what should you do?
1:44 how tendons grow
2:37 when your tendons need extra recovery time
4:17 tendinosis and tendonitis
5:10 how soreness turns into an injury
CLIMBING BLOG: sendedition.com/
My recommended climbing gear here: sendedition.com/guide-for-cli...
What I use for filming these videos: sendedition.com/video-photo-s...
CLIMBING BLOG: sendedition.com/
My recommended climbing gear here: sendedition.com/guide-for-cli...
What I use for filming these videos: sendedition.com/video-photo-s... - Навчання та стиль
![ОРБАН приехал к ПУТИНУ и "отчитался" о поездке в Киев 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_0ukDovOWq8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this excellent series!! I really appreciate the effort that you take in sharing your knowledge and expertise 🙏🏽
Thanks so much for this information!!!
Not in a "I'm so good" way but it's good to see content like this coming out for climbers that have ascended the grades and are really trying to push themselves everyday and love it and want to be on the top level. It's good to have a lot of content for beginners, but there's not too many tips for people that have ascended beyond that
awesome vid, looking forward to the next 2 videos with Eric
Thank you! They will be coming out on Saturday and Sunday so stay tuned ;)
He just perfectly summarised what happened to my shoulder and has been bugging me for the last year.. if only I knew beforehand..
Thank you so much for this interview, I really like his work
I’m glad you enjoyed it - he really does a fantastic job with everything he does!
I am not a climber but I experienced this when I did heavy deadlifts with an overhand grip and a lot of extra exercises that involves grip in the week.
Thank you so much! It's a really helpful video.
You're very welcome!
Nice! Getting experts is the best thing you can do for your viewers.
I appreciate you covering this topic. I heard Alex Honnold talk about how you can out pace your tendons with muscle growth climbing but he did not mention how to avoid or help with this problem. Thumbs up for sure!
I’m so glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the thumbs up and for taking the time to comment!!
Very nice video! While being a percussionist (drummer, for the uneducated), i learn this was an extremly hot topic (how to detect and avoid tendinitis). I am slightly suprised about how little i have heard about this in the climbing community. I thought it would be a more spoken topic due to the seriouse impact tendinitis can have on a climber
I've been needing this series. The algorithm did something right for once by recommending this after watching your skincare videos.
I’m glad to hear it!
awesome, gonna subscribe and check out the rest of your videos
sweet! Thank you :)
You are amazing! I am just going through this xD Thank you so much
Sounds like once you get pain it’s too late and you may miss training days due to having to rest to mend the damaged tendons. I am praying for a way to test your body to see if you get to the “yellow zone” which would be slow down, or lessen the intensity, , but don’t stop. Would be great if science found a way to do this.
Great insights! Here's something also getting more common: you are an IT guy who never did sports and was overweight, then started running and climbing and lost a lot of weight. With that, the body also lost a ton of fat it got used to having. Suddenly your skin feels like paper - it tears from nothing, your nails are super brittle and break in awkward ways that make your fingers unusable. It's a combination of your skin trying to become hard for the first time in your life and also learning to be fatless. So it's double soar skin (and yeah, nails are part of the skin - for nail doctor you go to the skin doctor). I started using fatty creams on my hands and also might need to take additional fat supplements to my diet, because obviously my skin has been dying by the rapid fat loss. And skin is essential part of your climbing and a major "resource" that determines how much you can climb and how hard.
You lost weight so fast your skin couldn’t keep up with it? Either you’ve got some insane metabolism or you’ve got some godly discipline and mental strength. Either way, wishing you the best in your journey.
@@Scott-ir5eg Wasn't fast. It was (as prescribed) just about 2kg per month, but for 2 and a half years, so yeah, a lot of weight difference in the end. I think if the skin is used to some fat ratio for many decades, it's hard to switch in just 2 years to a completely different fat ratio.
Any suggetion for tfcc injury also wrist click problem?
This video didnt have to call me out this way 😮😂
Thx for the advice
Have you seen Hooper's Beta, where he discusses Emil Abrahamson's 30 day program?
Any suppliment for tendon?
Can he elaborate ontop the distal bicep and slightly higher? It’s where I have all my discomfort/pain or does it work the same as he’s explained?
How long to heal
Where did you find that photo (of the hand-ligament model) for your thumbnail? I want to buy that model of the hand for education.
I made it… that’s actually my hand.
Interesting!
My tendons are all super stretchy!! 😂😂😂 they are like over stretched ruberbands!
...guess I figured out what’s wrong! My left arm from my shoulder to my wrist is screaming and it’s not muscles. Thank you!
I hope you get better soon! Good luck!
For a man like me, eating pork 3 times a day is not an intimidating task. I started eating pork two meals a day, including half a bag of pork rinds which are super high in collagen. I have not been climbing for long but damn I noticed a difference super quick i both my calluses healing and my tendons. Thanks for the info!! Real stuff
wait so what should i do if my tendons are sre? i never got an answer lol
I have never been climbing but I do have weird joints + tendons. I would say fix the diet. Eating grass fed meat + grass fed saturated fat keeps my joints + tendons feeling good. Even if my arm tendons are over stretched. But I am careful not to overwork my arms. Repetitive motions. But in my experience its all diet. I had to go grain free + I eat no highly processed foods (nothing from a box or can etc). I avoid all veggies too. I do try a little fruit (fresh). But I mainly live on grass fed beef + lamb.
Its quite amazing to have hEDS and yet be able to walk the distance that I do without any pain. But if I eat the wrong thing I get lots of joint pain. 😢 its the food!
Maybe check out Dr Berry???
I would like to try the climbing gym at least once.
Dude adam ondra had this happen recently lol
yeah so the a2 isnt a tendon... its a pully
Ligaments and tendons both are fibrous connective tissues. Ligaments generally go bone-to-bone, and tendons go muscle-to-bone. Is the A2 pulley connecting bone and bone, or bone and muscle? No. It attaches at both ends to bone (the same bone), making a loop, but what it's actually 'connecting', or holding together, is the finger flexor tendon, with its sheath, to the bone.
There, I tried to do what your comment didn't do, which is to be edifying where there might be some confusion. The negative statements are a bit childish, like saying 'you do know tomatoes aren't vegetables, right' without adding anything by way of clarification to actually edifying other minds
Also, it's "pulley", not pully, and it's something of a misnomer, or term of classification or designation which doesn't reveal much about what it does. Mechanical pulleys redirect force, whereas our finger pulleys act as fixed point of connection or distance constraint, themselves unmoving, but which allow the tendon underneath it (within the sheath) to slide. So I don't even think there's significant relative motion between pulley and sheath; I think the sheath doesn't slide relative to the pulley, but tendon rather slides within sheath
One more thing (new to me!) - some sources classify the finger pulleys as retinacula, which are fascia (a layer of connective tissue) that keep tendons in place. These terms are useful for keeping things straight, but they're most helpful when they elucidate qualities of the thing itself: shape, function, mechanical properties, etc.