Finger Care For Climbers
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- In this video we've got Ollie Torr taking us through one of his finger and forearm rehab/prehab routines. This is by no means an exhaustive list of exercises for you to do, but it is a great starting point for care of this part of the body - consistency of application is key here!
Main exercises covered:
1. Ball rolls
2. Finger & forearm stretches
3. Finger glides
4. Pen rolls
5. Rice buckets
Finally, if you are rehabbing an injury then try and keep a record of your process and progress! We really can't overstate how useful this is - whether it's for yourself or your coach. Many of you are great at keeping a diary, so make sure you keep it up even if you pick up an injury.
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I always bring my bucket of rice with me to the climbing gym. Really handy if I get hungry 👌
Sorry, did you say something? I was staring at Finn the whole time.
JK this was very helpful
Would be nice to make an other episode just concentrating on the skin itself. How treating to wet or to dry hands. To thin or to thick skin. How to remove extra skin. How to grow skin. How to treat the hands for a perfect grip before climbing.
This would be great.
Have you found any good videos on this in the meantime? I just started climbing last month and the skin on my fingertips is starting to go fast now haha
Not really. I have thick skin so seldom problems like that. Be carefull with slipping on slopers a lot. That eats you’re skin. And some manual labor jobs can make you’re skin thicker.
Nice video! I had to watch twice because once to watch your dog!
The timing of your guys' videos is kind of scary. It seems as if whatever is actually happening in my climbing, you guys make a video the next day about it. Had an A2 pulley tweak for the first time in my climbing life and then BAM - lattice has me covered. Thanks guys
Nice video! I've been dealing with a finger injury for a few months now, this was super informative
Boulder Bros no worries!
Very timely - I seem to have picked up a strain at the base of each middle finger. I suspect it is from beastmaker front 2 as the soreness is on the outside of the knuckle just where it contacts the edge of that particular pocket. Time to dial down the repeaters and go and buy a big bucket of rice :)
Excellent video!
thanks for the video!!
Sage advice from the Oracles at Lattice.
Great video! Thanks for all the great content! Really important question though - where did you get your haircut? 💇♂️
Good video!
Nice and insightful video, however when you say don't do this before climbing can you elaborate as to why?
Awesome video! Quick question, do you have any tips on Hyper Mobile Fingers or Double Jointed Fingers. I find my finger strength to be insanely weak compared to others, and my ability to do crimps while not hyper extending really hard (painful or uncomfortable). All I have found was some posts on Reddit and they aren't that helpful. Cheers!
gonna try that penrolling
Great Video - cheers guys! Is anything similar existing for shoulder rehab, either planned or already on air?
Biceps Mou not at the moment... rather a lot of things on our plate! 😁
That last one is straight out of a kung fu movie ☺
Thank you :)
You're very welcome :)
How do I construct the rice bucket? Basmati? Jasmine? Too many options here and I don't want to accidentally injure my fingers
Can you do tendon glides to warm up for climbing?
I had an A2 pulley injury ( partial tear I don't think it was a rupture) now after 1 year I restarted climbing and it started to feel bad again. My question is can I heal while climbing if all I do is open hand grips?
Do you do these exercices at all if you don't have any "niggle", or would you rather capitalize on the added strength brought by more rigidity? Although I almost always seem to have a little something in one the fingers lol.
Fin 💚
How many weeks does a typical recovery take, as you describe it? So a slight niggle that you recognize before an injury happens and you implement these programs?
How much rice do you need to fill a bucket? 10kg?
Anyone here ever had swelling and slight numbness in their thumbs or fingertips from climbing or really high repetition dumbbell exercises?
What do you do to recover from the problem?
Great video. I've been having some issues some my fingers. Whenever I use the finger board or climb I get trigger finger type symptoms. Is this something to be concerned about? It's been like that for well over a year now
you're pushing too hard ^^
I’ve developed trigger finger too and want to know what to do to heal and prevent it
@@skateboarddudekid If you have not seen it already, hoopers beta has a video on that subject!
@@bjrn6379 checked it out. Thanks! It’s gotten better but not at 100% yet
Hey bro I'm from the US. Is there any synonym for the word you were using to refer to finger tweak? I don't think I can safely use that term where I live :P
I usually always do the stretch at 4:46 before climbing as a warm up and sometimes during a session, what is the reason not to do that?
I believe it's because static stretches can make your tendons/ligaments less elastic in the short term so you increase risk of injury during a session. Which is why dynamic body stretches are always recommend before exercise rather than static, which are good to do after
Anything for skin on the fingers? Rest is what I mainly hear, and maybe some waxy product like Climb-On. I've had skin issues for like 6 months and I get maybe 40 minutes of climbing before the skin is too bad to climb on again. Rest a day or two, go back to the gym, and another 40 min before the skin is gone again. Its the top pad of the fingers, all fingers on my hands, like if I slapped my hand on a volume and dragged it down repeatedly. I mainly boulder and lean towards those comp style problems, so there is a lot of dragging my hands on volumes and large holds. But even after taking 2-3 months off of climbing entirely during quarantines, I came back and had 1 good day before the skin was back to terrible.
I've tried Climb-On, Climb Skin, Rhino, and Joshua Tree. I have my preferences, but non were particularly amazing.
Does anyone have something they've tried that works? This has seriously been hindering my climbing and its frustrating.
I had a similar problem, and i fixed it by using a bit of antihydral, because when the skin is dry it doesn't scrape off that much on volumes and such.
I can't know if this is an ongoing issue, but my skin has gotten pretty gnarly every year even before I started climbing, and I've found that I need to file any hard spots down and apply a liberal coating of hand cream overnight after any wear. Any generic hand cream will do I usually protect them with cotton gloves aswell so they don't just dry back down during the night. My skin is usually really dry naturally so I've had to do this for a long time and I have no idea if this works as well on hands that have a tendency to sweat or skin that is naturally more moisturized. Feel free to give this a go though.
For sweaty hands there are a couple of tricks to dry them out for climbing. But the issue may be thin skin. Training on wooden holds can preserve the skin. When I was young I played a local ball sport which made my hands skin very thick. You had to hit a ball really hard with you’re bare hand and that grow me some real thick skin. Don’t know how to incorporate such a thing in you’re training.
A great finger mobility exercise is rolling a pen or penny between your fingers.
I got this problem in 1 week my gym will open again. The only thing i right now want to do is just climb what ever route i can go on. I don't care about the grade or anything i just want feel my body on the wall again. But i also know that 30-60 min in i will wonder about my grip sttrength and it will be very hard to not test those tiny grip routes just to see if i can still climb or even hold those things.
Realy hope i can hold myself back which will be hard even tho i know i will risk getting injured
Reminder to you: don't.
Had the same issue, the thing though is that your body remembers a lot. Start slow and then go smaller, but listen to your hands. Once they feel uncomfortable stop climbing on crimps.
Anyone picked up on why we not suppose to do the stretches and exercise before climbing sessions? I think I have missed it if he had mentioned.
feel like good warm up routines to me. cheers!
Oh doggo 😂 eat that foot!
I love my distraction. .. hahaha. cute doog
jajajajjajaja the dog
is it ok for climbers to crack knuckles
Good question! I'd also like to know this.
I've also juggled this question for a couple of years. Several times I've ended up damaging my tendons a little from twisting my fingers just to reach the crack. Back then I had finger injuries all the time, but just half a year ago I´ve completely restrained myself from twisting them and now only crack by pushing my fingers UP or DOWN with the other hand and this has made a huge difference for me. Not that I denounce myself as an expert, but I feel that I've done all the online research possible and I now think that as long as you don't feel any pain afterwards, you can keep on cracking:) (Just my belief)
I believe someone won a Nobel prize for cracking their knuckles on one hand for thirty years to show it didn’t cause arthritis, you’ll be fine
@@lewisallison3544 No... he received an Ig Nobel prize, which is a satire award.
@@jfireclimbing brilliant ha, there's a lot of research that shows no correlation with inflammation
I use pallets of a BB gun which is just as effective and way easier to clean ;D
I know you mean the little balls but here I am imagining you putting a pallet of bbguns on your hands to make them better somehow.
Plot twist: This is a rice ad
This guy spent half the video talking before he showed anything