Finger Training You Can Do Every Day! Learn a "Protective Training" Protocol for Rock Climbers
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- Опубліковано 14 лют 2021
- ** This is a slightly revised version of a video I published here in 2019...describing a simple, but extremely beneficial 6-minute finger training "protective" protocol that you can do every day! **
LEARN MORE about the research and training/nutritional intervention details here: physivantage.com/blogs/news/a...
Climbing is hard on the finger flexor tendons and pulleys (A2 and such). If you climb and/or train frequently at a rigorous level, then there's a good chance you've experienced finger pain and perhaps even an overuse and acute injury. So, what can you do to reduce your risk of these pesky finger injuries?
New research has revealed a coupled training-nutritional intervention that can increase tendon strength and health. Based on this research, I have developed a simple 6-minute "protective" finger training protocol that will nourish and strengthen your finger flexor tendons and annular pulleys. Think of this brief training session as “prehab”-because it will enhance collagen synthesis in your tendons and ligaments…and, thus, improve the health and strength of these important structures.
Best of all, this is one climbing exercise that you can do almost daily! Of course, intensive hangboard training protocols must be limited to just a few days per week-they are hard on the muscles, nervous system, and connective tissues and, if you do too much, there’s a good chance you’ll end up injured. But this brief moderate-intensity protective protocol can be utilized daily, either as a rest day "prehab" session or as part of your warm-up routine before your main climbing/training of the day.
Skeptics and naysayers might not believe in scientific research (their loss!), but there's growing evidence that this coupled training-nutrition intervention WORKS, if you apply it correctly. Research has shown that pre-workout consumption of vitamin C-enriched hydrolyzed collagen is the lynchpin of this protective training...that leads to a doubling of collagen synthesis in connective tissues that you target with mechanical loading (~60 minutes after consuming the collagen peptides). The science is fascinating! You can learn more at: physivantage.com/blogs/news/a...
** Six-Minute Protective Protocol Details**
#1. 30 seconds of finger rolls (or squeeze donut) with a moderate load.
#2. 30 seconds of finger extensions with a Powerfingers (or similar)
#3. 1 minute of 10"/5" Repeaters (i.e. four 10-second hangs) on large to medium-sized holds using open hand, open crimp, or half-crimp (if uninjured) grip positions.
#4. Repeat Steps #1 through #3 two more times--this makes for an effective 6-minutes of non-fatiguing loading. (Do not let your finger exercise escalate into anything more stressful or voluminous than what's described here.)
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Thanks for Eric's awesome video, I started this protocol daily (almost) from March 2020 till now. Two years of time I had no finger injuries and my gym climbing level improved from V4 to V7. Sent my outdoor V5 project a few months earlier. The protocol definitely increased my finger recovery rate and endurance. I used to be able to climb a hard session(climb beyond my max. flash grade) twice a week only, and minimum of two days' rest was a must in order to recover after the session. 2-3 months after the protocol, I was able to climb every other day.
Wow, so inspiring! Glad i can help improve your game and keep having fun!
Eric watched Emil's video and was like "hey I did it first"
I literally started doing this because of emil, but i remembered that Dave Mcleod and Eric horst advised it first. Oh well.
Rght! :-) I began coaching these protective sessions in 2018...and I originally released this video in July 2019. But Emil is welcome to jump on the band wagon...because this protocol works! Let's get the word out to more climbers!
instablaster.
I highly recommend everyone to listen to his podcast episodes on Spotify. There's so much information we are all missing out.
Thanks for the endorsement! I try to make them the best they can be!
This is awesome, I can add this to my daily strength workout 👍
Absolutely!
My understanding from (re)reading up on this is that hangs/pulls of longer duration (30-40s/rep) at lower intensity build sinew elasticity which is best for tissue health and injury prevention. On the other hand, high intensity / low duration finger training builds tendon stiffness (not to mention muscle recruitment and neuromuscular adaptations) which is best for tissue performance. My question is how to best coordinate these distinct protocols when you don't have one big trip or season at the end of an 8-12wk training cycle (non-linear, conjugate, whatever). Are sinew elasticity and stiffness mutually exclusive characteristics and, if so, how easily and quickly can a climber toggle between advancing these two adaptations?
These are great questions! I have covered many in my Training for climbing podcast and on my website. But briefly, the stiffness of tendons is altered by the type of workout you do. This process is not quick and will take weeks to build up. To transition between stiffer and less stiff fingers when aiming build muscle strength, you will have to have workout phases that span the period of weeks.
Hey Eric, what about Lysine? Should we be incorporating that as well, if we're buying the amino acid supplements separately? What are your thoughts on lysine?
Great video! Excelente quality. I would like to know how often can this collagen supplement be taken. Every time i train? Thanks dude
The research shows it is most effective 30 minutes before loading!
A question about collagen supplementation during longer and/or higher intensity sessions than the one outlined here. You mention waiting 30-60min after supplementation to load tendons, but does this mean any loading (i.e. warm up) or aligning the 30-60mins with maximal loading? And do we know what is the back end of this window during which the exogenous collagen is bioavailable?
That is correct. Any loading will promote the collagen to travel to the area worked. When the fingers are loaded whether that be lightly or more intensely, the collagen is in the synovial fluid regardless. But this specific protocol is easier because it works as a purely protective workout rather than trying to build strength.
Always a good video, although it is hard to spot the difference on this latest version? Could do with more explanation on the level of intensity? e.g.. % of max hangs, feet on the ground etc. Cheers
Thanks for the recommendation!
Awesome! Thank you for this video! ;)
Glad you liked it!
They cite the research on the site, thats fair game
Yes we do. Everything is science backed and fully legitimate.
I had been planning to stop by next Cafe and you ask about this topic as I watch something with Emil Abrahamsson referencing a Keith Baar study and that Emil has been doing an extreme lightweight hang board session 10 minutes twice a day and said he was happy with results. Do you feel there is also any potential movement adaptions from these types of daily light routines beyond just active recovery? I find this idea very interesting both it applies to climbing and also general strength as these higher frequency lower impact workouts are showing more and more promising results in studies. In a way it is so counterintuitive it is almost harder to put in routine than just trying harder(er) all the time.
Low-load training (30%-50%) can be useful for targeting slow-twitch fibers...so doing longer low-load sessions can have some use. However, such training is very hard for climbers to stick to...because it's our nature (when training) to want to "go harder" and get pumped! And so such low-load training can easily devolve into a harder workout. But of course, the -minute protocol in the video is easy to follow, time out, and then conclude without escalating into something more than a protective training session.
Thank you for this extremely helpful video! I have a question regarding the weight-bearing aspect of the exercise. Is the intent to hang with the entire body weight, or is it acceptable to start with partial weight, perhaps with feet lightly touching the ground, as a way to ease into the protocol and reduce initial stress on the fingers? Could this be a viable approach for the first few weeks, gradually increasing the body weight supported by the fingers over time?
It depends. The main priority is indeed weight bearing so if you are unable to do this protocol with full bodyweight then significantly enough body weight with feet on ground would do fine. However, on a large enough hold if body weight is doable, but not too tough, that is an option as well. If your fingers are very acutely injured, I would recommend taking some time off from doing anything, but only for the initial period after the injury. Hope this helps.
Hi! I think am experiencing soreness at my A2 pulley (ring finger) from climbing ytd. I find it hard to straighten and bend my ring finger today. :( Thankful to have come across your video.
Should i start this regimen today?
How long should i wait to start this?
& What would be the indication for me to go back and climb? i am preparing to climb outdoors soon.
Thanks!
A little but of rest immediately following the injury is key. But make sure to not make that too long and get back to light loading after a few days to a week.
why did you re-release this video? It's great content, apart from the product advertising, I appreciate the science based explanation of low intensity exercises for finger tendons
To add the flavored collagen mention...and more importantly to bump it to the top of my video feed! :-)
Hi,
I was doing a more in depth research on collagen. I found that hydrolised collagen contain mainly type 1 & 3 collagen, which gives you strong nails and bones. Type 2 gives you stronger ligaments in general, but this isn't found in hydrolised collagen. As a climber, should I be taking type 2 instead of 1 & 3?
yes 2. 1 and 3 is useless.
There's hydrolized collagen with type 2 as well.
Where can be found that thoose aminoacids really increase synstesis of tendos and connective tissues rather than chincken breast, for example? Can you release some articles? Thanks a lot
Look at Physivantage.com . All of the research that supports this information is there. Also look for articles i have written on Trainingforclimbing.
If you consume the collagen in the morning and then go for a 30-45 minute run before doing this daily hangboard protocol would it be affective or would the additional exercise interfere? I'm super excited to try this out!
This would not be ideal...unless you want to direct the collagen-specific amino acids to the tendons/ligaments of the legs. Remember, the tendon loading is what drives the diffusion of nutrients---so whatever body part you load 30 to 60 minutes after drinking the collagen will preferentially benefit from the spike of collagen-specific aminos in your system.
@@training4climbing Makes sense. Thanks so much for all the tips!
I don’t have a hang board yet. Can I use my pull-up bar in the mean time or would that not be working the fingers quite right?
Because of how your hand wraps around it it would work a different part. But if you do not have access to a hangboard you could mount a 2x4 and grab onto that with few pads. Hope this helps!
I'm adding this into my mobility/stretching routine ... or more accurately, the routine that I will be initiating... I've been bad at prioritizing this. 😆
You got this!
Hi Eric! I'm a big fan of your channel. Is the supercharged Collagen available for European purchases? Thanks
Unfortunately not yet... But we are working on getting it to you guys ASAP. Stay tuned!
In the meantime it is available through the EpicTvShop.
Hey I am a youth climber that has nagging growth plate pain that’s sort of on and off would this protocol be good for that if I’m also using your guys supercharged collagen??
Hey Isaac, growth plate issues are not ones to be taken lightly. Both of my sons had to go through this period and I understand it can be frustrating to have to significantly cut back your training. However, this needs to be done. Since your pain is persistent I would be careful doing any campus training or weighted crimp edge training since these are key sources of growth plate injury. That being said, this protective finger protocol can be done with an open hand grip and in ways that are not increasing risk to your fingers. Additionally, the collagen can be key to your recovery is supplemented properly and taken consistently. Hope this helps and you get through this frustrating period.
i get slightly pumped from this protocol 😅
is it what i should aim for or is the intensity too high?
thanks for all your work by the way! ✌
As long as it is not an extreme pump that is fine. Just want to get the blood flowing and not over work the body.
Hi sir, do you think it would be a good idea to do this protocol whitout taking any collagen peptides ?
I don't have the money for it :/
Anyway great video straight to the point !
This is a solid protocol regardless of the collagen. However, for optimal finger protection the collagen combined with this workout is ideal.
Could this double as a finger warm-up routine for a bouldering/fingerboard/campus session?
Totally!
Hi! Can I use this protocol for tendinitis or pulley sprain?
Yes!
It’s hard to find any real science like doing the same training protocoll with collagen, with a placebo and with any other supplement containing protein. The science out there that i have found is actually saying that if you eat collagen it will be broken down in to aminoacids and rebuilt to whatever the body needs of protein. If Anyone has any medicalstudies and science saying otherwise please post a link to the article.
Check out Physivantage.com , there is linked research there behind the products and other study data can be found by research done by Keith Baar out in California. Hope this helps!
I do not have access to a hangboard or a pull-up bar where I live. Is there anything else I can use? Or a replacement exercise?
You can do finger weighting activities with dumbells or weighted objects of some sort. Or if you are strong enough, finding a door frame!
Would you advise against doing yoga during the 30 minute period before the protocol?
It depends what you are trying to target. If your main goal is to target the fingers then I would advice doing the protective protocol first. However, if yoga beforehand is equally as valued to you then it is fine to throw in before hand since the protocol works regardless. Hope this helps!
If we are doing this 5 to 7 times per week then does that mean some days we will also be doing our normal training regimes as well?
Yes! This is a quick supplemental workout that can be done to enhance your fingers, not train them completely.
Yo so I don't do climbing,I just got my gym but I'm trying to strengthen my grip should I be doing ur training protocol?
Ofcource you should
start slowly, then gradually build! Good luck!
Is there a version of this for elbows and shoulders?
You can definitely modify this protocol for your elbows! 30 to 60 minutes after consuming the vitamin-C enriched collagen, you'd want to do a variety of elbow rehab exercises--pronator/supinator, wrist flexor/extensor, and if able some isometric pull-up (elbows bent ~90 degrees) with neutral hand position...hold for 30 seconds.
@@training4climbing thanks so much! I have a friend who has some sore tendons in his elbows and has been looking for ways to help them heal. I’ll send him this video. Thanks also for all your hard work, I love watching your videos and have most of your books
Can this be done in conjunction with a Max hang protocol?
Yes, but they have different objectives so I would recommend spreading them out at different times throughout the day since this protocol is brief.
@@training4climbing Awesome. Thanks for the reply!
4:45 "Do this 5-7 days per week ideally first thing in the morning."
Why would first thing in the morning be any better than another moment of the day? Is there research backing this?
One benefit would be that since this is a brief workout you could do this in the AM and a more serious workout in the afternoon.
So you can mix in SuperCollagen9000 in your coffee, of course. Revolutionary synergy synthesis. Don't believe me? Just ask me!
so it's just 10s on 5s off for 1 minute for the hangs?
Correct! the 10-5 protocol is great!
the company producing the collagen is yours isnt it? At least that's what i heard you say in an interview. So is the research done by your compay too or is it proven to be true by objective bystanders?
It is true that Physivantage is my company, however, all of the research is done by completely unaffiliated companies and separate from Physivantage. All of the referenced research is legitimate and uninfluenced by my company. This maintains the integrity of the products and rigorous application of the science.
Instead of finger curls with weights and the extensions with the bands, is it okay to use a rice bucket?
Rice bucket could definitely work. But it will be less defined and involve other areas too. Finger curls and hangs are specific to finger loading.
@@training4climbing thank you!
Wish you could add this regimen to the Grippy app
Thanks for the input!
You can add it manually... I added Emil's workout.
The study "Vitamin C-enriched gelatin supplementation before intermittent activity augments collagen synthesis" compares people who have *fasted* prior to exercise, with those given gelatin.
I can't see how that's relevant to the real world. In practise, climbers would have eaten at least *some* food prior to hangboarding. And the question is if the amino acids in regular food has the same effect as your collagen powder.
Hello! This video describes doing this protective protocol in the morning with the collagen consumed first thing (empty stomach). As for the food, there is no food with such high amounts of collagen-specific amino acids (glycine & proline)--consuming 10-15gm of gelatin/collagen peptides has been shown in research to spike glycine and proline in serum within one hour--the perfect time to load your tendons! Happy training!
@@training4climbing any study to suport this?
Can you still climb 5.14?
I have actually never climbed 5.14... that is one of my goals even in my older ages! I just did my first 13c this year!
@@training4climbing I bet with your finger strength you could do God's Own Stone at the Red.
Where can I get scientific data that this really happens?
I'd also like to see the science for this. I like his climbing books but don't understand why he's gone with the collagen bandwagon hype. We can't digest collagen well and when it does it's broken down into amino acids for the body to use, better off having a couple boiled eggs in my opinion
The data is on the website physivantage.com. This is new research that has only just gotten through the tip of the iceburg. Which is likely why you haven't heard much of it.
The collagen is what makes up the tendons and ligaments in the body. So supplementation of it, combined with protocols to focus the collagen to desired areas allows those areas to increase uptake of collagen and promote collagen synthesis.
Where is the science for the collagen? Some promising case studies with no control group is not scientific proven evidence. Anecdotal evidence at best. But keep on pedaling....people will buy
the collagen in the coffee is pretty fuckin nasty