I remember watching this video 2 years ago just b4 or buying my own Gen 2 clutch & feeling confident I could tune it myself let the clutch go & live to race again thanks! Yes I’ve watch it many times since that day
Great video, helped me understand the physics of what the dynamic springs and arm weights are doing, I'm running a VROD Destroyer with a similar MTC 5 arm multistage, speaking with a few local racers all running GEN2's on rice pointed me in the same directions as your talking about. Looks like I'll need to bit stiffer/longer dynamic springs under my arms, allow just the right amount of clutch slippage and reducing the bog on the hit.
Thanks for the video. I can’t wait to start dialing my clutch setup in on my busa. I have it set without dynamic springs in it and arms loaded for the street.
Good video. Im looking at a Kairos or MTC at the moment. My friend has run a stack of passes on a Hays T6 with no change in stack height so I dont know if the MTC is much differnet but I dont think you should be consuming clutches like you stated. He runs mid high 7's. that would influence my decision on which one to buy.
Losing. 003-.005 per pass is normal. I dont replace entire clutches at one time. I maintain stack height. Stack height is crucial to making the clutch act the same every pass. Another thing to consider is track prep. A good track will wear the clutch more if the bike is making power and digging. If you aren't losing stack height you're either locking the clutch up at lower power levels, or its spinning the tire.
@@tpsfab is just because at 1:42 you said you could run a different combination of weights on the arms, but I think I miss understood what you said. i though you are saying that you could run different weights on each arm
Depends on a few things.....how much static you set it up with and how you street ride it. Ideally these clutches are set up to maximize "throwing" the lever at launch. And that set up wont work well on the street. It will slide until the rpms are up high enough to start engaging the arms. With that said...if you ran more static pressure, with soft dynamic springs and more weight....it can work. Likely you will end up with 2 set ups....the clutch is easy to make changes to
The steels last pretty long and the fibers I just watch the overall wear. In roughly 3-4 passes it will lose .010 in stack height. So I go thru the clutch and replace the thinest fiber or fibers with thicker ones to gain the thickness back. I'd say I can make a set of steels last half a season and fibers are about 1 replaced every 4 passes. I keep 2 full clutches in the trailer and just swap things in as needed
This will be the 3rd season. I basically haven't had to a complete refresh since goin turbo. I had the cases apart to replace a bad piston mid last year from bad valve stem seal that lead to a HOT piston under boost... Everything else looked good! So I just keep up on inspection stuff
@@tpsfab damn someone else is awake besides me!!!! Thanks, I’m highly considering one but I still ride on the street occasionally and don’t want to have the bike a strip only set up! I don’t mind swapping springs and adjustments for street vs a track day, I only do a few per year but I have the extra coin for a clutch that I hid from the Mrs so….. Shhhhhh don’t tell her! 😂😂😂😂😂😳
You could try a few things depending on how close the clutch is to starting to grab when you are at launch rpm. If the clutch is starting to get close to engaging at launch rpm, try a touch more static pressure. That should grab the motor sooner and also make the clutch start acting a bit quicker. If it flashes RPM instantly, try a few softer dynamic springs OR add a little weight to a few of the dynamics you currently run. The clutch should let the rpms jump a little and grab the motor and TRY to pull it down, but not soo far it comes out of the power. Just a balance between slip and stick. I've had my best luck having about a 500rpm dip from when the clutch grabs the motor to where its pulls it down to. I'll leave at 8k, flash to 9300 , drop to 8800 and pull to 12,300
One of the best explanations of how a hand slider works on UA-cam!
I remember watching this video 2 years ago just b4 or buying my own Gen 2 clutch & feeling confident I could tune it myself let the clutch go & live to race again thanks! Yes I’ve watch it many times since that day
Awesome video. I just got my gen2 back yesterday for my 91 suzuki. Cant wait to test it. Mtc did it for me also.
Great video, helped me understand the physics of what the dynamic springs and arm weights are doing, I'm running a VROD Destroyer with a similar MTC 5 arm multistage, speaking with a few local racers all running GEN2's on rice pointed me in the same directions as your talking about. Looks like I'll need to bit stiffer/longer dynamic springs under my arms, allow just the right amount of clutch slippage and reducing the bog on the hit.
Thanks for the video. I can’t wait to start dialing my clutch setup in on my busa. I have it set without dynamic springs in it and arms loaded for the street.
Thanks for the video mate. Great visual description and knowledge. Have an MTC Lockup on the way and this will definitely help in sorting it sooner.
This video is GREAT!! Thanks for the clarity.
Thanks for the video
I picked up the gen2 today it’s still in the box now
great thanks showing how them clutchs work
Great video, thank you! Very thorough.
Awesome video man! Can I email you a pic of my rpm log see what ya think haha
Good video. Im looking at a Kairos or MTC at the moment. My friend has run a stack of passes on a Hays T6 with no change in stack height so I dont know if the MTC is much differnet but I dont think you should be consuming clutches like you stated. He runs mid high 7's. that would influence my decision on which one to buy.
Losing. 003-.005 per pass is normal. I dont replace entire clutches at one time. I maintain stack height. Stack height is crucial to making the clutch act the same every pass. Another thing to consider is track prep. A good track will wear the clutch more if the bike is making power and digging. If you aren't losing stack height you're either locking the clutch up at lower power levels, or its spinning the tire.
Are you sure you can use different weights on each arm? Because I don’t think so, the manual says to use the same weight
I have the same weight on each arm
@@tpsfab is just because at 1:42 you said you could run a different combination of weights on the arms, but I think I miss understood what you said. i though you are saying that you could run different weights on each arm
You can run different weights, Ive tried it in testing for small changes to 1 stage....minimal change that just added complication
Can a stock motor (Zx14r) still ride on the street with the Gen2
Depends on a few things.....how much static you set it up with and how you street ride it. Ideally these clutches are set up to maximize "throwing" the lever at launch. And that set up wont work well on the street. It will slide until the rpms are up high enough to start engaging the arms. With that said...if you ran more static pressure, with soft dynamic springs and more weight....it can work. Likely you will end up with 2 set ups....the clutch is easy to make changes to
How long does your clutch disks and plates last?
The steels last pretty long and the fibers I just watch the overall wear. In roughly 3-4 passes it will lose .010 in stack height. So I go thru the clutch and replace the thinest fiber or fibers with thicker ones to gain the thickness back. I'd say I can make a set of steels last half a season and fibers are about 1 replaced every 4 passes. I keep 2 full clutches in the trailer and just swap things in as needed
How many seasons you get on your engine @400 or so HP?
This will be the 3rd season. I basically haven't had to a complete refresh since goin turbo. I had the cases apart to replace a bad piston mid last year from bad valve stem seal that lead to a HOT piston under boost... Everything else looked good! So I just keep up on inspection stuff
@@tpsfab yea. I’m looking to do the same and was wondering. I didn’t want to have to do a tear down every year. That would get to expensive.
Can you use this clutch on the street for everyday riding?
Little different tune and you can! Wont be maximized for the track , but you can have 2 separate tunes for it
@@tpsfab damn someone else is awake besides me!!!! Thanks, I’m highly considering one but I still ride on the street occasionally and don’t want to have the bike a strip only set up!
I don’t mind swapping springs and adjustments for street vs a track day, I only do a few per year but I have the extra coin for a clutch that I hid from the Mrs so…..
Shhhhhh don’t tell her! 😂😂😂😂😂😳
Where from Wisconsin are you from
Hello my clutch flashes up to 8k and stays there for about 1.5 second then start to pull. How do I reduce the flash time does to maybe 1 second.
You could try a few things depending on how close the clutch is to starting to grab when you are at launch rpm. If the clutch is starting to get close to engaging at launch rpm, try a touch more static pressure. That should grab the motor sooner and also make the clutch start acting a bit quicker. If it flashes RPM instantly, try a few softer dynamic springs OR add a little weight to a few of the dynamics you currently run. The clutch should let the rpms jump a little and grab the motor and TRY to pull it down, but not soo far it comes out of the power. Just a balance between slip and stick. I've had my best luck having about a 500rpm dip from when the clutch grabs the motor to where its pulls it down to. I'll leave at 8k, flash to 9300 , drop to 8800 and pull to 12,300
@@tpsfab thanks but how many RPM below flash do you leave at. ie if flash is 8k do you set you 2 step to 7.5k.
That would be a good target!
👍🏽👍🏽
Just rev it up and throw it!!!!