Hi your video's are great. I have the same indicator lights lit up in my 2011 Escape. Question is what are the models of the two electronic tools you used to diagnose the codes and then perform the power bleed? Where can I get them?
Hi Danzicari. Thanks for the compliment and I'm glad my videos help. I would just get the Foxwell scanner/bleeder: amzn.to/3J5UI1L. It can do the same OBDII scans as the Innova 3130, but it also does the ABS bleeds. If I remember, this power bleeder was used to force fluid back through the abs system: amzn.to/49kF9y5. I highly highly recommend you do not allow the master cylinder to drain if you can prevent it. Its a fair pain to prime it back up with fluid. Best of luck to you!
If you have rusty Torx head bolts holding the module cover to the aluminum block, and make the mistake of trying to use a T15 Torx driver to remove them, be warned that in some cases, it actually requires a T20 driver to tightly fit into the Torx socket on the top of the bolt and remove it. I removed 3 of the 4 on my 2010 2WD Expedition with a T15 driver, but on the 4th one, I stripped it completely. It is extremely difficult to get it out after that. I had to cut off the head of the Torx bolt with a drill bit to remove the module cover, and I'm still trying to remove the headless Torx bolt without snapping it off. Replacement screws either come from a junkyard module, or from Ford at about $7.50 each, plus tax and shipping, or eBay if the dealer doesn't have them in stock. Finding the part number is difficult, but here it is - Genuine Ford ABS Control Module Bolt -W302577- (403588103872). On eBay it can appear that the package contains 3 or 4 bolts, but only 1 comes in the sealed Ford package in my experience. I was happy to have it at anything less than $10 each.
No. The only indication was the lack indicator lights. Mushy brakes are typically an indication of air in the system. First thing, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir.
It help with bleeding the brakes I would making sure the master cylinder does not run dry. You can just get any weird cap that fits over the end of the brake line
If you don’t plug the line from the resivoir, the resivoir will drain and you will need to bleed the master cylinder. A bit of a pain! The red plugs were to keep dirt out of the lines. If you not going to plug then be sure to drain the resivoir first. It’ll save a big mess.
Hi Sir, question, do I need to bleed/flush the brakes before taking the module off the car? You put is "recommended" but what if I don't do it? I am asking because I have never flush the brakes before, so I'm wondering if that would be still ok. Thank you so much for your video it will save me the waste of $$ going to a dealer for just programming 🙏
Hi there. I assume you watched both videos for removal and install. First, check to see if you can access the EBCM fasteners and harness release without removing the ABS assembly. If you can, try removing the EBCM without ABS assy removal. If successful you will save yourself a lot of time and mess. Assuming you have to pull the entire ABS assembly, then ideally you will want to cap off the reservoir side of the line that runs to the ABS assy. It’s a nipple on the master cylinder that can be capped to prevent all the brake fluid from draining out after you remove the line. If you can achieve that it will save you from having to bleed the master cylinder, which is a pain and requires 2 people. If all else fails, drain the brake fluid from the reservoir/master cylinder before you disconnect the brake lines from the ABS assy. Otherwise brake fluid will get everywhere. If you ever open a brake line in the brake system where air does or possibly does get in, you will have to bleed the system. Thats not the same as flushing the system since the objective of flushing is to replace all the fluid whereas bleeding is to get air out of the system. If you have to drain the master cylinder then I recommend, after you put it all back together, start bleeding at the master cylinder. Once you get all the air out of the mast bleed from each wheel. You may have to go back to the master if the brakes remain spongy, but the wheel bleeds will be much easier. Good luck!
@@Thatguysauto your explanation was exactly what I was wondering. I was think what if I can just disconnect the ABS Module from the hydraulic and save all the mess and time..I will try that first..if it gets really complicated, I will follow your detailed explanation. I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video and also answering my questions. God bless you!
I pulled mine today and that 10mm nut on the bottom was a NIGHTMARE. I ended up using a ratcheting wrench. Took me about 3 hours to get the whole thing out.
@@fixfalcon2628 It would be a pretty easy job if it wasn’t for that one stupid nut!!! When reinstalling I found it best to just lay on the motor, accept the scrapes and cuts on your wrist and arms and get it started with your fingers. $399 vs. $1,800 definitely made it worth the time blood sweat and tears tho!
But once you get it, this whole procedure is well worth it! And installing that pesky bottom nut is much easier than removing it! Put on some raggedy clothes and just go all out laying across the engine. Probably get a few little nicks or cuts on your left arm but that’s worth the $1,200+ you save by going this route! I was so grateful for this video when I DIY’d this 7 months ago! Still no abs lights
SO IF YOU ARE ABLE TO HAVE A PCM, ANTITHEFT SYSTEM AND THE ABC MODULE FROM ONE WORKING ESCAPE AND TRANSFER TO ANOTHER NOT WORKING ONE, DO YOU THINK PROGRAMMING STILL BE NECESSARY?
Hmmm. I would need to phone a friend from the UA-cam community. Anyone know the answer on this one? If not, I would call Ford and ask them if the PCM and ABS modules are paired. That said, I suspect there could be much more reprogramming needed to swap a PCM. So I would definitely ask Ford and research further. Good luck!
Hi Joel, the going rate for the ford escape EBCM repair in mid-2022 via UPFIX was around $350. I see its $399 now at the end of 2022. I believe there is some other competition out there for the same service at a lower cost on other vehicles. Unfortunately I have not found the ford escape service offered by others at this time. www.upfix.com/product/ford-escape-2009-2009-abs-ebcm-module-repair-service/
Hi your video's are great. I have the same indicator lights lit up in my 2011 Escape. Question is what are the models of the two electronic tools you used to diagnose the codes and then perform the power bleed? Where can I get them?
Hi Danzicari. Thanks for the compliment and I'm glad my videos help. I would just get the Foxwell scanner/bleeder: amzn.to/3J5UI1L. It can do the same OBDII scans as the Innova 3130, but it also does the ABS bleeds. If I remember, this power bleeder was used to force fluid back through the abs system: amzn.to/49kF9y5. I highly highly recommend you do not allow the master cylinder to drain if you can prevent it. Its a fair pain to prime it back up with fluid. Best of luck to you!
If you have rusty Torx head bolts holding the module cover to the aluminum block, and make the mistake of trying to use a T15 Torx driver to remove them, be warned that in some cases, it actually requires a T20 driver to tightly fit into the Torx socket on the top of the bolt and remove it. I removed 3 of the 4 on my 2010 2WD Expedition with a T15 driver, but on the 4th one, I stripped it completely. It is extremely difficult to get it out after that. I had to cut off the head of the Torx bolt with a drill bit to remove the module cover, and I'm still trying to remove the headless Torx bolt without snapping it off. Replacement screws either come from a junkyard module, or from Ford at about $7.50 each, plus tax and shipping, or eBay if the dealer doesn't have them in stock. Finding the part number is difficult, but here it is - Genuine Ford ABS Control Module Bolt -W302577-
(403588103872). On eBay it can appear that the package contains 3 or 4 bolts, but only 1 comes in the sealed Ford package in my experience. I was happy to have it at anything less than $10 each.
Good tip! Sounds like a good time that I’d rather not experience!
I'm having the exact same DTC and symptoms in my 2012 escape. Were they able to fix the issue?
They were able to repair the abs control module. Been driving on it now for over 10k with no issues.
We’re brakes mushy? As an indication the module may be bad?
No. The only indication was the lack indicator lights.
Mushy brakes are typically an indication of air in the system. First thing, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir.
Plugging the lines with those red caps isnt really necessary is it? I dont have any and have no idea where to find them
It help with bleeding the brakes I would making sure the master cylinder does not run dry. You can just get any weird cap that fits over the end of the brake line
If you don’t plug the line from the resivoir, the resivoir will drain and you will need to bleed the master cylinder. A bit of a pain!
The red plugs were to keep dirt out of the lines.
If you not going to plug then be sure to drain the resivoir first. It’ll save a big mess.
Hi Sir, question, do I need to bleed/flush the brakes before taking the module off the car? You put is "recommended" but what if I don't do it? I am asking because I have never flush the brakes before, so I'm wondering if that would be still ok. Thank you so much for your video it will save me the waste of $$ going to a dealer for just programming 🙏
Hi there. I assume you watched both videos for removal and install.
First, check to see if you can access the EBCM fasteners and harness release without removing the ABS assembly. If you can, try removing the EBCM without ABS assy removal. If successful you will save yourself a lot of time and mess.
Assuming you have to pull the entire ABS assembly, then ideally you will want to cap off the reservoir side of the line that runs to the ABS assy. It’s a nipple on the master cylinder that can be capped to prevent all the brake fluid from draining out after you remove the line. If you can achieve that it will save you from having to bleed the master cylinder, which is a pain and requires 2 people.
If all else fails, drain the brake fluid from the reservoir/master cylinder before you disconnect the brake lines from the ABS assy. Otherwise brake fluid will get everywhere.
If you ever open a brake line in the brake system where air does or possibly does get in, you will have to bleed the system. Thats not the same as flushing the system since the objective of flushing is to replace all the fluid whereas bleeding is to get air out of the system.
If you have to drain the master cylinder then I recommend, after you put it all back together, start bleeding at the master cylinder. Once you get all the air out of the mast bleed from each wheel. You may have to go back to the master if the brakes remain spongy, but the wheel bleeds will be much easier.
Good luck!
@@Thatguysauto your explanation was exactly what I was wondering. I was think what if I can just disconnect the ABS Module from the hydraulic and save all the mess and time..I will try that first..if it gets really complicated, I will follow your detailed explanation. I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video and also answering my questions. God bless you!
I'm getting ready to replace my ABS Pump/Module. Do you have any idea what size those Threaded Caps to cap off the lines to the Master Cylinder are?
How did you get that 10mm nut at the bottom?! It is currently making me want to drop a lit match in the gas tank
Socket extension to remove. Paper towel wedged in the socket to hold the bolt to install. It is in a difficult position for sure. I feel your pain!
I pulled mine today and that 10mm nut on the bottom was a NIGHTMARE. I ended up using a ratcheting wrench. Took me about 3 hours to get the whole thing out.
@@fixfalcon2628 It would be a pretty easy job if it wasn’t for that one stupid nut!!! When reinstalling I found it best to just lay on the motor, accept the scrapes and cuts on your wrist and arms and get it started with your fingers. $399 vs. $1,800 definitely made it worth the time blood sweat and tears tho!
That 10mm is really difficult to get.
But once you get it, this whole procedure is well worth it! And installing that pesky bottom nut is much easier than removing it! Put on some raggedy clothes and just go all out laying across the engine. Probably get a few little nicks or cuts on your left arm but that’s worth the $1,200+ you save by going this route! I was so grateful for this video when I DIY’d this 7 months ago! Still no abs lights
I’m getting ready to pull mine, where did you send it
I sent it to a place called Upfix.
www.upfix.com/product-category/repair-return/abs-modules-repair/
how much did they charge you?
I think it’s like $350-400. They bank on it for sure, but the other option is full reprogram…
SO IF YOU ARE ABLE TO HAVE A PCM, ANTITHEFT SYSTEM AND THE ABC MODULE FROM ONE WORKING ESCAPE AND TRANSFER TO ANOTHER NOT WORKING ONE, DO YOU THINK PROGRAMMING STILL BE NECESSARY?
Hmmm. I would need to phone a friend from the UA-cam community. Anyone know the answer on this one?
If not, I would call Ford and ask them if the PCM and ABS modules are paired.
That said, I suspect there could be much more reprogramming needed to swap a PCM. So I would definitely ask Ford and research further.
Good luck!
It will not work. Very few programmer know how to fix it
Hi there, how much did you pay?
Hi Joel, the going rate for the ford escape EBCM repair in mid-2022 via UPFIX was around $350. I see its $399 now at the end of 2022. I believe there is some other competition out there for the same service at a lower cost on other vehicles. Unfortunately I have not found the ford escape service offered by others at this time.
www.upfix.com/product/ford-escape-2009-2009-abs-ebcm-module-repair-service/
B134"3"
Good call! Thanks!