BRICK WALL REPAIR (Part 2) Mike Haduck
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- I repair some brick on a old brick building, All my videos are my ways and ideas, I always suggest anyone doing any type of work to consult professional help.
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Tools - www.amazon.com...
web site - mikehaduck.com/ - Навчання та стиль
You are such a good teacher...you say what to do and, just as important, you say what not to do! This repairing brick might be what you call "no big deal", but it's still a lot of work and there is always a technique. Thanks for showing us Mike.
Thanks Juliet, Mike
Hi Mike, Thank you so much for all your detailed videos and many tips & tricks, which will really help me to do my repair jobs on garage wall repointing, and replacing damaged bricks, as well as other jobs. Priceless information and I am now subscribed. Best Wishes.
Thanks Dee, Mike
Thanks Mike. You are a special special person. So much beautiful information. God Bless.
Hi Matzi, thanks for the kind words, God bless also, Mike
Hello from the u.k.
You are the Bob Ross of builders!
I’m 65 now, and served my apprenticeship as a bricklayer
from age15 to 21, you mirrored my repair job on a long pub wall.
I did when I was about 20, it was 50 yards long and 6 foot high
and in bad shape.
Took me forever, the boss used to drop me off early and pick me up at dark
and the temperature was around freezing all week!
Moved from that company after I served my time, looking for building
Work in the local paper, and said to my dad “looks like they are taking people
on to build a hospital in poland” and he said “ you know I’ve been a bricklayer
all my life.
And my father and grandfather, before him get out of it it’ll wreck you physically
Over time”
A couple of my dads cousins who were also bricklayers went over to New York,
And then on to San Francisco, to get work after the earthquake.
Took his advice, started work in one of your u.s. owned u.k.based car assembly
Plants, warm in winter, air con in summer, retired at 55 with pension no regrets
Still find the building lark fascinating, still have plenty mates that still do it.
Hi Cyril, your right, I never met a rich mason or brick layer, and very little brickwork here anymore, everything is being premade , but there is work in repairs and restoration, it's best to get a job with government where you get paid days off and a pension, Good to hear from UK, to me that's where the best came from, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck
Hello from mad Cyril in the u.k. AGAIN!
I wish my dad could have seen your videos, as stated on my previous comment.
He was a bricky all his life, and was born in Middlesbrough north England
In 1909, missed ww2 because of key occupation, maintaining sewers.
Building fortifications, bunkers, e.t.c. mainly London during the war.
He worked on a large catering extension at the royal quarters
Of Windsor where the queen resided, who used to show up
Periodically to see how things were going on.
He also worked on York cathedral, stonemasonry, he used to make
Antique furniture, for my mum, we lived in an ordinary semi detached
Medium sized 3 bedroom house, but he put in oak beams stone fire places
and wood panelling, because my mum liked the cottage look.
Spent many a meal time sitting on a stack of cement bags at the kitchen table,
Always a wall coming down, doorway bricking up e.t.c.
I said to him once, I can understand your bricklaying skills.
And your masonry skill but where does the woodcraft
Come from?
In 1981 I bought a terrace house, and we both renovated it, he passed in
1991 I sold it in 2006.
Were I live in north wales, within a 2 hour drive you have access to about
5 medieval forts and castles,check out Ewloe castle which is a mile away
From home and Flint castle, which is 5 miles away, both North wales locations.
I like the old stone work, hate to ramble but thought you would like
a tale about a true craftsman like yourself.
Take care.
Hi Cyril, I remember those guys and worked with a few old timers who did the old churches and gov buildings, great to hear that, God bless, Mike
Thanks for the video! It was tremendously informative for my home repair.
Thanks John, Mike
Glad to see you're still doing brick work
Thanks, every now and then, mostly repairs, Mike
Using the correct mortar is the most important thing you can do when caring for historic masonry. That’s because historic bricks are inherently soft. The mortar that cushions one brick from another needs to be softer and more permeable than the brick itself. Otherwise, the brick won’t be able to slowly flex during the normal freeze/thaw and expansion and contraction cycles of the seasons.
Source: OLD HOUSE
Thanks Gary, that's true in most cases, I did a video called " lime, mortar or portland" what should I use? Mike haduck, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck
Why use lime mortar with historic brick?
Lime mortar is made of burned limestone rather than ground limestone. This burning process is what gives lime mortar the properties that are required for historic masonry restoration. Lime mortar has low compression strength and high flexibility. It absorbs movement and protects the bricks from the effects of settling and expansion, and contraction.
-Source: Historic Restoration
Historic Brick Salvage
There are many online listings of antique bricks for sale, reclaiming the tradition of American brick history.
Source: Historic Bricks
HI Gary, the family has been in business sense the 1940s and I been doing this over 50 years and all I do I go around fixing all the lime guys mistakes, if you want it to last you got to add Portland except for limited circumstances, lime don't hold up in our weather, I explain it all in the video I told you to watch, if you don't get it by then I can't help you, with respect Mike
I love watching your videos. Even though I don’t do brickwork myself. I still like to learn. And you’re so informative.
Thanks Treason, I appreciate it, Mike
Wonderful video. Thank you so much. God bless you.
Thanks, God bless, Mike
Great video Mike. I always learn so much from your work
Thanks Marco, Mike
Nice video and I like the music you wrote too that plays at the end.
Thanks Nora, Mike
I thought walls used lime mortar for a reason, and using modern cement in place of like mortar causes many issues?
Hi Gary, I got a video out called " lime or Portland " what should I use? Mike Haduck, I explained it all there, thanks Mike
very nice!! I like that old mud trick!!
Thanks Sue, Mike
Portland Cement and red brick a complete no-no ? some neighbours on my terrace ( pre 1910 houses) have pointed their houses using cement and many bricks spalding and pointing breaking away now - cement does not allow for any movement -any expansion - cement traps water in the brick leaving it vulnerable to frost damage - use hydraulic lime with sharp sand - one lime to two and a half sand and forget the portland if you want any
longevity . Check out some english sites to see how it ought to be done properly
Hi Oliver, I did a video called "lime or Portland " what should I use?, I suggest you watch it, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck .5 Type n masons cement, .5 lime, 3 sand.. (or so) It takes a really long lime to harden but its the best for old soft brick. Using original mortar material is important due to expansion and contraction. Portland is too strong and not necessary for 2 or 3 stories of brick. NHL 3.5 is the best option. Of course you have to repoint every couple decades.
I always read that type N mortar is too hard for old brick and will cause it to spall and deteriorate.
Hi, I would say it depends who you talk too, I never had a problem with my mixes, thanks Mike
Mike, videos are great teachings, I am restoring a brick building similar to this. Do I need to find older bricks to replace these or can I use newer red bricks?
Thanks
Hi Roxann,, I would see what matches, thanks Mike
The bricks on the building are losing the face because it has had cement render put over the top of it,lime needs to be able to breath and cement won't let it breath,it's called spalling bricks and to replace the face with cement half is doing just as much harm as the render,they are old bricks that will soak up moisture,but with a lime bed the moister can get out,but when u bed the halfs with cement there is no way of the moisture to escape. It will escape through the brick,and the frost will blow the front of the brick,called spalling!
Hi Sam, I did a video called " lime or Portland " what should I use, Mike haduck, I explain it all there, thanks Mike
As the bricks were originally bedded in lime they should be bedded back with lime,like for like
@@samcarter1541 Hi Sam, our family been in business over 70 years, lime don't hold up in our area, If you want it to hold up you got to use a hard water proof brick and add portland to the mix, stuff like this the brick will disintegrate no matter what you use, its our weather, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck do u have to replace old work u have done,I understand weather must be bad for the lime,just wondering
@@samcarter1541 hi Sam, I don't want callbacks, so I never had one concerning brick repoiting or replacement, thanks mike
Workin on a an old brick job right now...your tips are priceless!! Thanks Mike! 🇺🇸
Thanks Jeff, Mike
Great lesson Mike! If possible could you please explain how to bind burnt clay bricks with raw mud bricks? Many thx Mike!
Hi, I have never done that , if I remember, so can't comment, thanks mike
Good video but I don’t like the idea of using ordinary cement with lime cement, here in the UK we use lime mortar and it has stood up to our weather for centuries.
Hi Robert, I believe you, I did a video called " mortar lime or Portland " Mike haduck. I think I explain it best there thanks Mike
Next video suggestion, how to make your own slicker.
Hi Joe, maybe, just scraps of metal from scrap yard, thanks mike
That’s awesome Mike! I love the look of the old brick too. Even if it’s crumbly looking. Maybe you just found a new architectural type facade artwork utilizing existing but decrepit structural elements
Thanks Joe, Mike
Mike, is there a follow up to this video? I'm really interested in seeing the completed project
Hu Al, the owner stopped. Buildings in the area are similar with the old brick, it's a modern day art thing, but they are still thinking what to do next, maybe a whole restoration project, they haven't decided, thanks Mike
Mike, you could have your subscribers submit photos of their jobs and do a montage at the end of your videos.
Thanks, but can't keep up with what I am doing now, thanks Mike
Why do you wet this brick Mike. The other video said don't wet brick? Thanks Mike.
Hi Richard, I did a video called, should I wet it first and another called repointing brick work, on brick work or block wetting it makes a mess, but for somethings like filling in etc I do it, thanks Mike
I just added to my skills. it doesn't look right to mortar up a spalled brick.
Hi G, it works, and if you can keep the water off it will last a very long time, thanks Mike
My wife and I are preparing to buy a house from 1860 and it needs a decent bit of work to the brick. I was told that I could not use any mortar other than a hydrated limestone type mortar. Any advice?
Hi , I got a video out called " lime, mortar or portland " what should I use? That might help, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I tried to message you on Facebook, I was wondering if you could take a look at some pictures I sent you. I live in Ohio and I am wondering if should plan on tuck pointing the entire home since it was originally done with the limestone mortar.
One thing I learn from Mike Haduck is mortar should be softer than the brick. Why, brick wall moves. If the joins are harder than the brick, they can't move and leave air gaps. So, don't repoint with stuff that is harder the the bricks. Thanks Mike, but I learn this a little too late.
Thanks Steven, Mike
Did the plaster got destroyed because it was not protected from the rain?
It had wire behind it that rotted, thanks Mike
Next time I am in Scranton, I am telling your Dad that you have been stealing his mud for years!
Thanks Pete, he hasn't noticed yet, lol, Mike
Constantly watching and rewatching your videos. I enjoy practicing on my house in Michigan. Definitely something about masonry work that leaves an obsession. Thankful of your media abilities and masonry profession. Keep sharing, it's appreciated.
Thanks zippy, Mike
Thanks Mike. I was struggling with my brick work. This video answered all my concerns and questions. Appreciate your craft and sharing your knowledge and wisdom.
Proverbs 1:5 "A wise man will hear, and will increase learning; and a man of understanding shall attain unto wise counsels."
Thanks coco, I will look that up, I appreciate it, Mike
Why paint it with mud to make it look old Mike ? The wall was built with lime mortar that is a white / cream colour
Hi Pcso, but the rest is dirty, so I made it match, thanks Mike
You say it doesn't hold up but it been there since the 1800s I'd say it's held up pretty well, like my house built in the 1700s still standing not a straight brick in the inside of the house.
Thanks Sum, that's a good thing, Mike
hey mike thanks for sharing BTW does your dad have any garden left lol that dirt is in every video
Hi Dan, it's disappearing, lol, Mike
@@MikeHaduck ha ha i know you took the dirt from there not honest mike mike made a lot of deliveries but never dirt from the garden lol thanks for the videos
Hi Mike, Would you recommend joining the bricklayers union in Jersey nowadays?
Hi Jon, I don't know, concrete is the place to go anymore, there is less brickwork every year, things are changing, Mike
Leonardo DaVinci and the Mud Trick - priceless! also, congrats to you, Mike, for pronouncing "masonry" correctly, AND for being a banjo player. Keep on keepin' on...
Thanks grey, Mike
When we had to patch up some old brickwork in our 1891 mansion we are restoring we used type N mortar and then used hot lime mortar to do the final pointing. It is an inside job so it matched the other part of the wall and shouldn't deteriorate. Thanks for the tips and tricks.
Thanks Frank, Mike
won’t the cement be a problem when the wall freezes? the joints will expand and cause the brick to break?
Hi, I never had a problem, thanks Mike
On an interior wall layer right behind the exterior wall, how long do I have to wait to put drywall after repointing?
Hi aby, usually they put a vapor barrier between the exterior and interior so my guess would be after the cement drys, I know some wait a few days but it would be up to the builder, and what code says, Thanks Mike
@MikeHaduck Thanks for your response. So putting a vapor barrier in a 1920 home wouldn't damage the walls? I recently saw that old homes need to "breathe ".
Love your simple informative detailed videos. I'm a 78 yr old not handy lady. Unbelievable but I fixed my broken cement stairs and did a great job thanks to your videos. Next, I'll try tuckpointing. Thank you, you're amazing and saved me a thousand dollars. Mrs. Cicero
Thanks Cicero, I a happy to hear that, thanks Mike
I watched a couple of your other videos and you said not to wet it. So which is it? To wet or not to wet?
Hi D, I have a video called, Should I wet it first? Mike haduck, that will explain it best, thanks Mike
That is what I call a soap
Thanks, Mike
Mike.... You just never stop amazing and teaching.... Food for thought on how I need to repair bricks around my 1948 house and support my fence nobody will touch...... But me.... That may be trouble....maybe... GOD BLESS
Thanks Ernest, I am sure you will do fine, God bless, Mike
Hey Mike, You come across every kind of situation, Remedies & always you fix it. Keep thinkig I met you somewhere but didn't, It's your voice (Cagney) yeah see! I'm saying that in a complimentary way mike No foolin.
Thanks painn,, Mike
"Mason like a dentist, eh? Ain't NO BIG DEAL----for you! Good use of margin trowel.For me, quite a challenge, since I'm a journeyman carpenter, Mike☆Thankyou!
Thanks Tod, Mike
Hey Mike, that was great. Can you do a vid on convex joints. Don't know what you call it over there but it is the jointwork that stands proud of the brick. I would love to know how that is done....peace to ya dude.
Hi Darren, I have something like that, called repointing stonework, part 7, but I will do it on brick, thanks Mike
Love this guy, he's the Bob Ross of brick laying.
Thanks swag, Mike
From what I've learned from you and being in New York I'm staying away from bricks.
😁 this is nice of you Mike to post these videos with all these difficult topics for people who have reasons why they want to do😍
Btw
On a different task
(In the kitchen haha) only one finger still bleeding.
I'll pick that Cellar project up again in the spring
Thanks Wendy, I am sure you will do well, Mike
Lime does hold up. It can be repaired. You can't rake out portland joints like you can lime. I can see this wall was repointed once before it was stuccoed. You can see that the spalling bricks have different mortar surrounding them. It was repointed with stronger mortar than the brick and the stronger mortar popped off the faces over years of expanding and contracting. Use .5 lime, .5 masons cement, 3 sand.
Hi bowen, I been doing this over 50 years and my family 75 years, lime don't hold up here, check out my video " lime, mortar or portland, what should I use? Thanks Mike
Thank you so much for your videos! I am a total rookie but you have given me confidence in trying some new things to help my old house. Would restoring just the face of the brick work in a patio where the bricks are horizontal? My patio has bricks that are cracked or the faces are chipped down badly.
Hi FaceMaul, sometimes I just build it back with portland and sand and wait and paint them if you can find a paint that matches, thanks, Mike
HI Mike, I recently purchased a brick home that was built in 1833. The interior walls are all solid brick with plaster. Upon doing some renovations, we have found the some of the interior brick walls have crumbling mortar and bricks. Are these signs of any structural problems we should be concerned about, or is patch job with adding new bricks going to help keep the integrity of the home? Thanks!
Hi samantha,, I can't say unless I was there to see it, most older buildings have those issues but usually easily repaired, thanks Mike
Great work as usual sir, thanks for teaching us.
Thanks, Mike
This is just too painful to watch! you are out of touch by using modern cement as we all know that lime is a much better choice. You have faced the bricks rather than replacing them completely. And please wear gloves and a mask when your grinding, particularly as you stated there is a lot of dust.
Hi, tanks for the advice but lime don't work in my area, I got a video out called," lime , mortar or portland " what should I use? That should help. Thanks Mike
Is there any structure integrity with the refaced brick or is it just facade?
Hi Autumn, the old days it was structural anymore mostly facade, thanks Mike
Gotta be a real back yard wanna be masonry dude. No safety boots or gloves or glasses lmfao 🤣
Thanks ox, I appreciate your concern, Mike
You're the man Mike! That old mud trick is great!
Thanks Pope, Mike
Have you ever used the pre made brick vaneers or thin brick for this?
Hi uncle, I guess my answer would be that you can use anything that works, as long as it dosent take away from the structural issues, thanks Mike
Great video, thanks for passing on the knowledge.
Thanks Francisco,,Mike
is this suitable for alleyway between two terraced houses in uk. i do believe it's structural. will the half cut brick be strong enough?
Hi ,I can't say unless I was there to see it, it's best to ask the locals, thanks,Mike
This is great, but what is your mortar? Is it Portland cement based, or is it old school lime based mortar?
Hi Jason, there lots of different products that will work but for brick repairs I use n or s mortar mostly, it depends on what I am doing and where, thanks Mike
What type of cement are you using?
Mortar or cement. What type, N, K or other?
Thank you.
Hi Fred, here I was using a fast drying, repoiting I usually use a s mortar, but everthing depends on the situation, thanks Mike
I’ve been trying to figure out how to approach the repair of an old chimney, built in 1910, where the bottom few rows are spawlled and crumbling. It’s in the center of a beam span where a corbel supports the weight. It used to be utilized by an oil boiler. Which bricks to remove/replace first. It’s like Jenga. Right now I am thinking starting with the top most row where the row above it isn’t deteriorating much, so the mortar can at least bond to the brick above it. Tricky stuff. I also thought maybe I could build forms and pour concrete around it to stabilize it.
Hi, . Brian, I have a whole playlist on " chimney repair" Mike haduck, I go through all my techniques there, I hope it helps, Mike
Thanks@@MikeHaduck ! Already started. I appreciate your hard work sharing all this stuff.
You can have that brick out much quicker with a bigger saw blade and a chipper gun.
Thanks, Mike
Mike, I’ve recently found you on UA-cam and I love your work.
I’m looking for some knowledge and I’ve had conflicting information given to me. My wife and I own a large brick farmhouse built in 1863. It is made of bricks fired on site and 3 bricks thick. Interior walls are also all brick. I was told it was a common brick building style in that time, as well as, I was told they built in 3 bricks thick, interior walls as well, in preparation of the civil war front moving north. Any ways, I’ve got some spots where I’m repointing. It has original lime mortar and has held up surprisingly well with little previous work done other than sealing. Being that the bricks are softer being fired on site I’ve been told to stay away from pre mixed type S and type N mortar since the new mortars are harder and made with Portland and won’t allow the brick to move. Do you have any tips you can give me? Any of your videos I may have missed? Can I add hydrated limes to pre mixed mortars to help with my worries?
I’d greatly appreciate your feedback and greatly appreciate your time. Thank you so much.
Hi, I have a video called, "lime, mortar or potland" what should I use? Mike haduck, that might help. Lots of different options but my rule of thumb is the mortar should be softer than the brick, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck thanks for the reply! I’ll check it out. That’s what I’ve been told, and many have said I should avoid store mixed mortars, even type N, stating they’re too hard. I know you mention adding Portland a lot. Is it ever recommended to add lime instead?
@Mwoz92 hi they came out with so many new products in the last 20 years you are not going to get a straight answer, especially when you are in different areas, brick work is funny as you don't know how well the bricks are, personally i dont have a problem with n mortar, I would do a little experimenting to make any final decisions, thanks Mike
how do you make your own "slickers" ??? thanks!!!!
Hi George, anything from the scrap yards, thanks mike
The hideous idea that plaster and paint will "make it look nice" .
Hi Jonny, it is what it is, thanks Mike
Mike, big fan of yours. Come visit us in Germany. We live near the rhine river, lots of castles by us. You're right, NO rebar!
Thanks, Maybe someday, yep no rebar in those castles, thanks Mike
Keep them coming Mike, looks great.
Thanks Paul, Mike
Horrible work 😂 you should always replace with whole brick. Couple freeze and Thaws and those pieces will fall off.
Hi Dale, a patch is a patch is a patch, if you want to spend the money to rip it down and re do it or cut every brick out like your suggesting, I am sure the owner would appreciate your financial support. Thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck you spent more time in your backyard cutting the faces of the brick than it would have took to just clean old brick out and installed the ones laying your bag yard. At least you’re building a roof over the wall.
@dalelongjr.6646 hi Dale, there are a lot of ways to skin a cat and in restoration work in the old cathedrals etc, buildings in euorpe we would do it that way, especially with the marble, limestone and granite pieces banging into the whole brick could weakin the structure, but in a lot of instances we would replace the whole brick, thanks mike
Great information Mike! I’m thinking about fix a fire wall in a basement that is deteriorating a lot in the basement of a 1880s multi family duplex. The brick fall apart very easy, I’m wondering if I should seal them afterwards to help from deteriorating?
I can't remember anything I have sealed, sometimes a curing sealer on a outside sidewalk, thanks Mike
Could an individual brick that has spalled be built up with mortar then dyed to match?
Hi Bob, I have done that a lot, actually I would build it up, take a piece of the brick to the paint store and buy a masonry paint to match, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Hi Mike - thanks for reply
Quick follow up - any thoughts on fixing a micro stress crack on a modern hollow brick? There’s just a couple on my job and I can’t find the the brick.
Ive got a related question…..I have a wall like that shown in your Brick Wall Repair video, perhaps 100--150 years old with many damaged bricks. I’d like to address the many spaulled bricks. In this video you are essentially filling missing brick with mortar. I’ve read in various old house references to beware of using modern mortars with old brick. The reason is that the mortar is harder and will crack the brick. In your videos (and in this one) you do not seem to be concerned with this. Could you comment especially as I plan on filling in missing portions of brick with your recommended rapid set.
Hi Phil, I have a video out called " lime, mortar or portland " What should I use? Mike Haduck, That might help, thanks Mike
Thank you for your quick reply and the wealth of knowledge you share with all of us. Phil@@MikeHaduck
I watched the video and part 2 of what cement should I use. I live in Rochester NY which though north of you has similar winters with many hard freezes and thaws. One thing on your videos that you do not address is the effect of cement hardness on the elements being bonded. I do not see any examples or discussion on these. The focus is on the non durability and weakness of lime heavy mortars. In particular the hardness of rapid set mortars and how it can effect brick repairs is not mentioned. I guess what I wish advice on is the danger of filling brick missing pieces and holes with straight rapid set. Again, thanks for your generosity sharing your knowledge. @@MikeHaduck
Hi Phil, I got a video out called " lime, mortar or portland? What should I use? It's my best shot at explaining, when it is just a few brick to fix I might use harder products but not for a huge project, everything has its place, masonry is not black and white there are lots of exceptions, thanks Mike
I'd hate to see what it looks like when you blow your nose 😁
Thanks J, I just won't blow my nose, thanks Mike
Thank you Mike 🌸🌸🌸
Thanks Eman, Mike
1st thought - If a DIY chump like me tried to cut brick like that somehow I'd make the saw throw it into my ankle, wishing I had hired the local Mike Haduck who knows what he is doing instead.
Hi Random, I just show how I do it, thanks Mike
I have a stone fireplace made from basalt. If I use the fireplace in the evening and let the fire go out, I have to leave the damper open all night. So much heat is lost that using the fireplace is very inefficient. I'm replacing the current screen on rods with glass doors. I'll still leave the damper open, but much less heat will be lost. The top of the opening is flat because the stones were placed on a steel beam. The sides are natural random basalt stones. This makes it very difficult to fit glass doors in the hole. I decided to try to cut the most-protruding stones to make the frame fit better. I thought basalt was too hard to cut cleanly. I bought a diamond disc for my small grinder and gave it a try. I was amazed at how well it worked! It only took a few minutes to even things up. I only modified two stones on each side. The cut surfaces were much lighter, so I rubbed mineral oil into the stone. I didn't realize until the next day that I should have put up plastic before cutting. I made a huge job for myself. Now I have to dust every surface and vacuum everything. It's going to take hours to clean up the mess!
TL;DR Cutting stone with a diamond disc is very dusty.
Hi Brian, I hear you, I been there, thanks Mike
Mike, can I call you for consulting?
Hi, I can't, I would have to be there to see it, but thanks for asking, mike
What kind of mortar are you using here?
Hi Nate, I think because of the situation it is a fast set, thanks Mike
Grinding does wonders for your running shoes😂
Thanks ox, Mike
Hey Mike,
Thank you for your videos. Quick question. Why do you wet the bricks in part 2 vs part one you did not wet the bricks?
HI Nicholas, wetting brick will make it stick but it could also cause a mess, so you got to know when and when not to do it and the type of brick could make a huge difference, thanks Mike
Mike very great lesson on brick pointing, Question how much are the joins in inches 1/2" or 1/4" ? thank you
Hi al, whatever it's is you just match it, thanks Mike
4:15, “always want your brick dry,” it’s the opposite actually, you should wet them, especially before use, because a dry brick will absorb the moisture out of your mortar.
Hi Tim, wetting brickwork will cause a mess, especially if they are a glass type and won't absorb water, I have a video out called " should I wet it first" Mike Haduck, thanks Mikey
Hey Mike I got a question for u , when I'm bricking a house should I charge extra for detail work like roll locks or quines , or soldier course ect... Thanks
Hi James, you have to, figure it all out before the bid, scaffold , deliveries etc, some jobs can bough you down with time and expenses and it just isn't worth taking, thanks Mike
Hey Mike, if you title that upcoming video on repointing "The Mud Trick," it might become your most-watched video. Also, I dig the new outro music, very well done!
Hi Bill, I should do one like that, I am about 50 videos behind, but it's a good idea, thanks Mike
no more you tube for me, see ya on bitchute
Thanks, Mike
First
Thanks Wendy, Mike
Always
👍🏆
Mike I have the exact same project only on the inside of my detached garage walls. Turns out they plastered over 1850's little cottage and made it a garage in the 1940's. I love the look of the brick much better and this video is really helping me with the damaged sections. In addition to this, I want to seal the brick when I'm done with something preferably that I can put in a sprayer like you use. Do you recommend me doing that an what would you use.
Hi Ron, with my thinking ads long ad the water is not getting to it I rarely if ever use a sealer, thanks Mike
Is There a difference in strength between type s hydrated lime and natural hydraulic lime putty that was slaked?
Hi In our area it's hard to buy lime, I never use it so I can't say, thanks Mike
Hello. I enjoy your videos, your a great teacher. I don't think I've seen you use any bonding agent. If not, why not, if you don't mind me asking. Thanks for sharing your wisdom
Hi A A, there were no bonding agents when I started, that is mostly a new school thing, but on certain occasions I might add a little, thanks Mike
I was gonna comment on the music when I watched the last video. I didn't know you wrote it. It's great!
Thanks Alex, Mike
Thank you or this video. I have a job coming up and this helped big time.
Thanks Kimbo,, Mike
Does iron sharpen iron? In the practical/mechanical (?) sense, not the biblical.
Hi Sidney, I guess your argument would be with the writer of the proverb, thanks Mike
Hi Mike you’re the Leonardo Da Vinci of masonry. You’re gonna me be a love masonry
Thanks Arthur, Mike
Greetings from Uruguay! It's great to watch and learn from a Master.
Thanks acunarro,,, I appreciate the kind words, it's nice to hear from Uruguay, Mike
Ain’t no big deal.... “you gotta wet it first”......that’s what she said.... love his attitude
Thanks Craig, Mike
Great vid, thanks for sharing your skills and experience!
Thanks Howard, Mike
Kind of a hard question mike How many years does it take to create bricks to become like the one you are repairing ? In the northeast where you live
Hi jo, I usually find them at the clean land fills , like when they are tearing down a old building or chimney, thanks, Mike
Ya gotta beautiful head of hair Mike! Yes, that's all I took away from your video. LOL
Thanks Tommy. Lol, Mike
Thank you so much !
You are amazing energetic teacher !!
Thanks, Mike