Absolutely brilliant video. People who search for this type remedy will no doubt be experiencing anxiety. Your video and its graphics are second to none. REALLY reassuring! Thank you 🙏
Top chap. Just had a small crack appear over our new french doors (nothing in comparison to this!). I will now repair in the same way, but may use an epoxy grout as they are faster setting and higher strength. Loved the video and detail - thanks!
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I bet an epoxy, suitable for embedding rebar pins in existing slabs, would work great for your purposes. Have a great day!
Hi im putting these bars into 4 inch blocks which will be plastered over..a person told me to put 2 bars in the blocks...how deep into the 4 inch block for the first bars.is 2.5 inches enoght..i have a pointing gun which will work o think...i will flush out the joints and wet before putting grout in...Nice job you did .
I have an 1850's house built with very soft clay bricks, so i have to use even softer lime based mortar for any repairs... How hard is this mortar compared to the antique stuff?
The repair mortar is insanely high PSI. That woodson incompatible given your application, but perhaps you could reach out to their technical staff. Thanks for watching!
Great Tutorial. Nice job. Thank you. I am about to tackle a very similar project. I’m anticipating that one messy/time-consuming step in the process is loading the gun. I think it might be helpful to scoop the mix into a piping bag (a plastic bag used for cake decoration) and load the gun with that. But we’ll see. Loved the pipe clamps! Did the wall move once they were released?
Thank you for reading. I installed two tapcon masonry anchors on each side of the crack. I then hen put a pair of calipers on it before and after the crack stitching. I'm sure it moved, but it stayed put within a thousand of an inch. I didn't have an instrument with higher resolution on me, but I think the results are pretty impressive. Regardless, I would definitely perform the crack stitching first, then let the wall settle for a month before final tuckpointing... If you have the luxury of time. Thanks and have a great day!
This is an outstanding video and repair. I have two questions. One is related to the number of bars in each slot. Helifix videos show 2 bars in each slot, not one ? Second question is the use of clamps to bring wall . It's clever but won't the brick mortar on the left wall brick crack as you pull the left wall to close the crack ?
Hi there. Thank you for writing. The store helical instructional video and technical literature only specify a single reinforcing bar for brick veneer with bars installed at the specified interval between courses. We will have to see how it holds up long term. The pipe clamps were quite effective. I first used the clamps to bring the wall back into contact with the existing mortar joint. I then used the diamond blade to slice out the vertical run of Mordor along the quoin, and then I over-corrected the wall by about a sixteenth of an inch. I assumed that the wall would rebound immeasurable amount after removing the clamps. I placed a set of tapcons to the left and right up the crack so I can put a pair of calipers on them . After installing the helical bars, and allowing them to cure, I removed the clamps. The wall didn't even move a thousandth of an inch. Thank you for reading and commenting. Have a great day.
Instead of specialized stainless steel rods, looks like you can do the same with fiberglass rebar (not ordinary steel rebar, it'll be too close to surface and will rust). Where I live, you can buy 50 meters of fiberglass rebar, 8mm cross section, for approx $100
One could use thin rebar, but the bumps and undulations on regular rebar are not as aggressive as the helical geometry. Make sure to use a high PSI mortar, and clean rust and scale from the rebar to ensure a good bond.
Hey, thank you for watching. For hairline cracks, the technically correct method to fix it is to use a diamond blade to slice out the mortar, and pack in new mortar, which is a process called tuck pointing. If the cracks are hairline, I would not mess with them. If they have opened up enough to be able to add some material, they make premixed mortar repair in a cock gun. I would buy something from a company called Sika or Henkel. They make colored silicone with sand in it, used for caulking the intersections of tile, but I do not know if they are UV stabilized or suitable for outdoor use. You will need to review the product literature to make sure that it is appropriate for sustained outdoor exposure. Thank you for posting and have a great day.
Wonderful information. In have been looking for the Result of the same wall shifting situation. Q. Why not have a thin rope or Twine Tied OR Wrapped to the Concrete Gun and your Waist Belt. So, if Dropped, then you will not totally Lose it. The Gun is Easily recovered to continue YOU'R work. SAFETY is the issue. You don't want to drop any work tools on to some one below. Safety. Safety.
Hello, yes, if working at height in the proximity of others, I would definitely use a lanyard. However, it was just me that day. Thanks and have a great day!
Well, I sent an inquiry to Thor which went unanswered, and you didn't answer my questions which is understandable. An engineer would probably shrug his shoulders and go "I 'unno" lol. So I'm gonna channel Larry Enticer and just send it. Ordering the repair kit this week. The price has gone up to about $550 with shipping I'm going to modify the protocol slightly and grind out 1.25 inches of mortar instead of 1.5 to make sure i don't punch through to the airspace. I've seen on other companies videos where they grind about that much out. Probably do 5 bars separated by 3 rows from foundation to window. I can't make it worse, right? Ha. Thanks for the detailed video and wish me luck!
Hi there, I don't have any record of a previously unanswered comment from you. What is your question? I will say, I am rather particular about things and it is very challenging to keep a depth within the tolerances you are specifying... well, I suppose, unless you have a dedicated diamond wall chaser with a wheeled depth gauge.
Interesting and informative video. I have cracks like those that I would like to fix, but I live in a foreign country and am relegated to just "covering up". Thanks for showing what could be done.
Thank you for writing. Helifix, a competing product, has an international presence. Where do you live. I will see if I can find a local supplier for you. Thank you and have a great day.
@@homecastlepro Greetings from Madrid, Spain and thanks for your reply and generous offer. Please don't spend more than 5 minutes on that search...you won't get them back at the end of your life when you will most want them. Again, many thanks.
www.helifix.com/contact-us. I see the flag of Eapaña on that page. My family and I visited nine countries this summer, and we loved Spain and Portugal most. Madrid was a beauty to behold. We were very fortunate. Thank you and have a great day!
Wow im dealing with this on my single story ranch home. Structural engineer came out and ensured me it was brick tie failure. Have you released the clamps yet? Did it hold? Amazing videos
Yep. I waited a few months before removing the clamps. I had Tapcons on each side of the crack, and I measured it before and after with calipers. I couldn't detect any movement after the clamps were removed. Thank you for watching and commenting. Have a great night.
It is difficult to say. Do you feel that the windows are especially rigid, or have a load bearing frame? Otherwise, they really need a lintel to handle the weight of the opening.
One could, but the bumps and undulations on regular rebar are not as aggressive as the helical geometry. Make sure to use a high PSI mortar, and clean rust and scale from the rebar to ensure a good bond.
Hi - I have a structural brick wall that is rotating in plane to the right at a window near the end of the wall. The window casing is open at the top, and the brick has pivoted about an inch at 12 feet height, over maybe 50 years. The brick is structural, six inches deep, not facade. Furthermore it has a two inch airspace in the middle that typically does not have mortar in it, so cutting 1.5 inches in with a grinder leaves at best a half inch backing of mortar before insert. 3 questions - 1) do you think this repair method is suitable for my situation? 2) how do you gauge the depth of your grinding wheel - do you mark the wheel itself at 1.5 inches? 3) what amperage grinder did you use? I saw your link for the Bosch, but it's a lot of dough for the 4 cuts I'll be making. I'd rather get one at Harbor Freight that I can rely on to last for 6 cuts 🙂
Hi there, if the wall is made of cbu, this is not a reasonable repair method. Can you describe the brick construction with greater specificity? I try not to buy power tools from harbor freight, but if you plan on the tool being disposable, it is a great option. I bought an esoteric toe kick saw from harbor freight for perhaps $60 and it included an extra carbide blade. The proper Crain unit was perhaps $600 to 800. For my purposes, the harbor freight was the right call. Thanks and have a great evening.
@@homecastlepro The house was built in 1956. Can I send you a picture of a half brick that shows the internal construction? These are clay bricks that are 6" wall depth x 12" length x 2.5" height, and may have been made by NM Penitentiary inmates. The issue is they have two cavities that are about 2" x 4". I really appreciate you responding.
I want to add that the bricks form the full exterior structure and are not veneer. There is no real framing on the exterior walls. Sheetrock backed plaster is nailed onto essentially furring strips that are nailed into the brick at 16 inch intervals
@@johnvance6786 hi there, I'd be happy to take a look at some photos, but I've been told that one is prone to getting spammed with lots of emails if I place my email address in these comments. Can you upload the photos to either Google drive or iCloud and drop a link to the edges in the comments?
Hi there, thank you for writing. I'm not completely sure that I understand your question. Even if the wall is bearing the roof load, One only needs to remove 3/4 of an inch of mortar depth, so the weight of the load above that course of brick is still being borne by the remaining 3/4 of an inch of mortar. If you send me some pictures of your project, I'd be happy to give you my thoughts. Just drop a URL, that links to the photos, in the comments. Thanks for watching and have a great day.
Thank you for reaching out. I pulled off the clamps in March, which should have allowed the wall to move if i wanted to. I previously installed two masonry screws astride the crack. I put a caliper on it before removing the clamps. I then checked it immediately thereafter. There was fewer than .001 of an inch movement... I checked it again in July, and I likewise could detect no movement. Thanks for watching and have a great day.
An awful lot of fuss for nothing, a proper mason would have done this in less than day, without any of the contraptions you've used. You're just too cheap to pay for one. Thank heavens less than 100 people saw this crap.
Hi there, and thank you so much for writing. No one wanted to do the job, because they didn't want to erect scaffolding given the mall scale of the job. So, if one cannot find a provider, it just has to be done by one's self. If only we had access to a proper mason, like yourself, that would have been a much more expeditious solution. Thanks have a great day.
mr. homecastle, 'home run!' give yourself a pat on the back. your presence, detail, and candid delivery are in the top 10%.
Wow, thanks for watching!
Absolutely brilliant video. People who search for this type remedy will no doubt be experiencing anxiety. Your video and its graphics are second to none. REALLY reassuring! Thank you 🙏
Thank you so much for watching. I hope your repair is a success!
Amazing the amount of detail you put into this video! Thank you
I thank you so much. I very much appreciate you watching and commenting. Have a great day.
Thanks for posting this. Got to repair a wooden lintel so it was very useful
Awesome. I am so glad it is helpful. Best of luck to you and your project. Thank you and have a great day.
Thumbs up. Interesting idea I'd never seen before and you did a good job on the video. One final panorama with a drone would have been nice ;-)
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. We really appreciate it.
Top chap. Just had a small crack appear over our new french doors (nothing in comparison to this!). I will now repair in the same way, but may use an epoxy grout as they are faster setting and higher strength. Loved the video and detail - thanks!
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I bet an epoxy, suitable for embedding rebar pins in existing slabs, would work great for your purposes. Have a great day!
Nice job! Excellant primer!
Thank you for watching, and I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Have a great day.
An exceptional video, thank you
Thank you for watching!
Top notch video
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. Have a great day!
Hi im putting these bars into 4 inch blocks which will be plastered over..a person told me to put 2 bars in the blocks...how deep into the 4 inch block for the first bars.is 2.5 inches enoght..i have a pointing gun which will work o think...i will flush out the joints and wet before putting grout in...Nice job you did .
Brilliant product.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
SOLID TUTORIAL.....
Thank you for watching and commenting. Have a great day!
I have an 1850's house built with very soft clay bricks, so i have to use even softer lime based mortar for any repairs...
How hard is this mortar compared to the antique stuff?
The repair mortar is insanely high PSI. That woodson incompatible given your application, but perhaps you could reach out to their technical staff. Thanks for watching!
Great Tutorial. Nice job. Thank you. I am about to tackle a very similar project. I’m anticipating that one messy/time-consuming step in the process is loading the gun. I think it might be helpful to scoop the mix into a piping bag (a plastic bag used for cake decoration) and load the gun with that. But we’ll see. Loved the pipe clamps! Did the wall move once they were released?
Thank you for reading. I installed two tapcon masonry anchors on each side of the crack. I then hen put a pair of calipers on it before and after the crack stitching. I'm sure it moved, but it stayed put within a thousand of an inch. I didn't have an instrument with higher resolution on me, but I think the results are pretty impressive. Regardless, I would definitely perform the crack stitching first, then let the wall settle for a month before final tuckpointing... If you have the luxury of time. Thanks and have a great day!
This is an outstanding video and repair. I have two questions. One is related to the number of bars in each slot. Helifix videos show 2 bars in each slot, not one ? Second question is the use of clamps to bring wall . It's clever but won't the brick mortar on the left wall brick crack as you pull the left wall to close the crack ?
Hi there. Thank you for writing. The store helical instructional video and technical literature only specify a single reinforcing bar for brick veneer with bars installed at the specified interval between courses. We will have to see how it holds up long term. The pipe clamps were quite effective. I first used the clamps to bring the wall back into contact with the existing mortar joint. I then used the diamond blade to slice out the vertical run of Mordor along the quoin, and then I over-corrected the wall by about a sixteenth of an inch. I assumed that the wall would rebound immeasurable amount after removing the clamps. I placed a set of tapcons to the left and right up the crack so I can put a pair of calipers on them . After installing the helical bars, and allowing them to cure, I removed the clamps. The wall didn't even move a thousandth of an inch. Thank you for reading and commenting. Have a great day.
Instead of specialized stainless steel rods, looks like you can do the same with fiberglass rebar (not ordinary steel rebar, it'll be too close to surface and will rust). Where I live, you can buy 50 meters of fiberglass rebar, 8mm cross section, for approx $100
Great presentation, where I am this (any) kit is not available, but did get some reobar, however I do not have a clue as to which Mortar.
One could use thin rebar, but the bumps and undulations on regular rebar are not as aggressive as the helical geometry. Make sure to use a high PSI mortar, and clean rust and scale from the rebar to ensure a good bond.
How is this repair holding up for you? Curious as I am a homeowner who is having this done on some vertical cracks on my homes brick veneer.
There's been absolutely no movement. I couldn't be happier!
if have many bricks that they have a hair crack, very little how do you fill those up? silicon with some coloring?
Hey, thank you for watching. For hairline cracks, the technically correct method to fix it is to use a diamond blade to slice out the mortar, and pack in new mortar, which is a process called tuck pointing. If the cracks are hairline, I would not mess with them. If they have opened up enough to be able to add some material, they make premixed mortar repair in a cock gun. I would buy something from a company called Sika or Henkel. They make colored silicone with sand in it, used for caulking the intersections of tile, but I do not know if they are UV stabilized or suitable for outdoor use. You will need to review the product literature to make sure that it is appropriate for sustained outdoor exposure. Thank you for posting and have a great day.
Wonderful information. In have been looking for the Result of the same wall shifting situation. Q. Why not have a thin rope or Twine Tied OR Wrapped to the Concrete Gun and your Waist Belt. So, if Dropped, then you will not totally Lose it. The Gun is Easily recovered to continue YOU'R work. SAFETY is the issue. You don't want to drop any work tools on to some one below. Safety. Safety.
Hello, yes, if working at height in the proximity of others, I would definitely use a lanyard. However, it was just me that day. Thanks and have a great day!
Exceptional ! 🌟 🎉 I love it
Well, I sent an inquiry to Thor which went unanswered, and you didn't answer my questions which is understandable. An engineer would probably shrug his shoulders and go "I 'unno" lol. So I'm gonna channel Larry Enticer and just send it. Ordering the repair kit this week. The price has gone up to about $550 with shipping I'm going to modify the protocol slightly and grind out 1.25 inches of mortar instead of 1.5 to make sure i don't punch through to the airspace. I've seen on other companies videos where they grind about that much out. Probably do 5 bars separated by 3 rows from foundation to window. I can't make it worse, right? Ha. Thanks for the detailed video and wish me luck!
Hi there, I don't have any record of a previously unanswered comment from you. What is your question? I will say, I am rather particular about things and it is very challenging to keep a depth within the tolerances you are specifying... well, I suppose, unless you have a dedicated diamond wall chaser with a wheeled depth gauge.
I would not use the repair mortar as a finish coat. It does not tool the same as n-type or S-Type and I think we'll stick out like a sore thumb
@@homecastlepro Noted. I will modify my plan accordingly. I really, really appreciate your advice.
Interesting and informative video. I have cracks like those that I would like to fix, but I live in a foreign country and am relegated to just "covering up". Thanks for showing what could be done.
Thank you for writing. Helifix, a competing product, has an international presence. Where do you live. I will see if I can find a local supplier for you. Thank you and have a great day.
@@homecastlepro Greetings from Madrid, Spain and thanks for your reply and generous offer. Please don't spend more than 5 minutes on that search...you won't get them back at the end of your life when you will most want them. Again, many thanks.
www.helifix.com/contact-us. I see the flag of Eapaña on that page. My family and I visited nine countries this summer, and we loved Spain and Portugal most. Madrid was a beauty to behold. We were very fortunate. Thank you and have a great day!
@@homecastlepro Happy you had a great experience, Spain is a fascinating and varied country to visit. Stay well and happy!
@@dedos-pima
Jhonatan
Qaou
Wow im dealing with this on my single story ranch home. Structural engineer came out and ensured me it was brick tie failure. Have you released the clamps yet? Did it hold?
Amazing videos
Yep. I waited a few months before removing the clamps. I had Tapcons on each side of the crack, and I measured it before and after with calipers. I couldn't detect any movement after the clamps were removed. Thank you for watching and commenting. Have a great night.
Thank you so much for your reply. Again, amazing work. This gives me some hope.
We have cracks above the windows. There are no lintels above the windows & wondering will helical bars do the job?
It is difficult to say. Do you feel that the windows are especially rigid, or have a load bearing frame? Otherwise, they really need a lintel to handle the weight of the opening.
Can i use normal REBAR instead of HELICAL BARS??? Because we don't have HELICAL bars in our area
Please do let me know???
One could, but the bumps and undulations on regular rebar are not as aggressive as the helical geometry. Make sure to use a high PSI mortar, and clean rust and scale from the rebar to ensure a good bond.
Hi - I have a structural brick wall that is rotating in plane to the right at a window near the end of the wall. The window casing is open at the top, and the brick has pivoted about an inch at 12 feet height, over maybe 50 years. The brick is structural, six inches deep, not facade. Furthermore it has a two inch airspace in the middle that typically does not have mortar in it, so cutting 1.5 inches in with a grinder leaves at best a half inch backing of mortar before insert. 3 questions - 1) do you think this repair method is suitable for my situation? 2) how do you gauge the depth of your grinding wheel - do you mark the wheel itself at 1.5 inches? 3) what amperage grinder did you use? I saw your link for the Bosch, but it's a lot of dough for the 4 cuts I'll be making. I'd rather get one at Harbor Freight that I can rely on to last for 6 cuts 🙂
Hi there, if the wall is made of cbu, this is not a reasonable repair method. Can you describe the brick construction with greater specificity? I try not to buy power tools from harbor freight, but if you plan on the tool being disposable, it is a great option. I bought an esoteric toe kick saw from harbor freight for perhaps $60 and it included an extra carbide blade. The proper Crain unit was perhaps $600 to 800. For my purposes, the harbor freight was the right call. Thanks and have a great evening.
@@homecastlepro The house was built in 1956. Can I send you a picture of a half brick that shows the internal construction? These are clay bricks that are 6" wall depth
x 12" length x 2.5" height, and may have been made by NM Penitentiary inmates. The issue is they have two cavities that are about 2" x 4". I really appreciate you responding.
I want to add that the bricks form the full exterior structure and are not veneer. There is no real framing on the exterior walls. Sheetrock backed plaster is nailed onto essentially furring strips that are nailed into the brick at 16 inch intervals
@@johnvance6786 hi there, I'd be happy to take a look at some photos, but I've been told that one is prone to getting spammed with lots of emails if I place my email address in these comments. Can you upload the photos to either Google drive or iCloud and drop a link to the edges in the comments?
Hey youtube let me reply
How do you repair the vertical open space ? Do you leave it open or use a sealer ?
Thank you for writing. Yes, just put foam backer rod in there and tuck point it like all the other joints. Thank you and have a great day!
How to do it when the roof is supported on the wall? Roof is filled with lintel and concrete.
Hi there, thank you for writing. I'm not completely sure that I understand your question. Even if the wall is bearing the roof load, One only needs to remove 3/4 of an inch of mortar depth, so the weight of the load above that course of brick is still being borne by the remaining 3/4 of an inch of mortar. If you send me some pictures of your project, I'd be happy to give you my thoughts. Just drop a URL, that links to the photos, in the comments. Thanks for watching and have a great day.
@@homecastlepro Thanks! I think you understood the question.
Any updates on this?
Thank you for reaching out. I pulled off the clamps in March, which should have allowed the wall to move if i wanted to. I previously installed two masonry screws astride the crack. I put a caliper on it before removing the clamps. I then checked it immediately thereafter. There was fewer than .001 of an inch movement... I checked it again in July, and I likewise could detect no movement. Thanks for watching and have a great day.
Hi,
Is there any contact number? i have bricks crack in the outside of my garage wall and looking for an expert to do the job.
thanks
where can i buy it
Here you go. thorhelicalusa.com/ Have a great day!
there is a crack in the wall of the house where i live so i'm going to do construction
Hi there, you can get supplies directly from Thor thorhelicalusa.com/ Thanks and have a great day!
An awful lot of fuss for nothing, a proper mason would have done this in less than day, without any of the contraptions you've used. You're just too cheap to pay for one. Thank heavens less than 100 people saw this crap.
Hi there, and thank you so much for writing. No one wanted to do the job, because they didn't want to erect scaffolding given the mall scale of the job. So, if one cannot find a provider, it just has to be done by one's self. If only we had access to a proper mason, like yourself, that would have been a much more expeditious solution. Thanks have a great day.
Lame