One of the best new uploads from TOH! Interesting material and a longer clip. Some videos have been too short. Even this one could've been 15 min or more, but 8 satisfied my TOH itch for the day
Hi Paul... I'm a Dubliner living in an old farm bungalow here in Mayo.. This house was rubble-stone built & the mortar had turned to sand so I had to repoint internally to 6'' deep, build stud walls stepped in from the stone... I'm also lowering every ceiling by a foot or more, re-wiring, re-plumbing, new central heating pipes trenched into the floors, super-insulated ... Its a long-term project but I enjoy working on it & it will be close to a "passive house" thermally when its finished. These guys have inspired & educated me with their knowledge & the vids are a "must-see" ... I particularly love Norm & the New Yankee Workshop as I do woodworking too ... though my trade was as a machinist (fitter-turner)... 😎👍☘🤔
This is like my mother used to say... "If you have to ask.... you can't afford it". Even if you inherited one of these properties - you'd practically have to be a multi millionaire to afford all the renovation work. This isn't for the "fixer upper" demographic. Pricey work. Always enjoy seeing top notch work skills. The "THIS OLD HOUSE" crew certainly has that covered..
You can tell Norm is not up to his old self, but I give the guy credit because he's keeps stroking along. I really didn't expect him to be in on that heavy lift and working on a ladder either... but he's a tough old bird!
This Old House: "Sometime back in the 80s someone tried to fix the roof by attaching a couple 2x12s to the main support beam, that didn't quite work, so what we're doing is attaching laminated beams and that'll fix the problem right up" This Old House 2051 - "Sometime back in the early 21st century they tried to fix the problem of this roof by attaching 2 laminated beams to the 2 sets of 2x12s that are attaches to the original beam, that didn't quite work, so what we're going to do is attach a couple nanofiber support beams to the outside and that will fix the problem"
@@zack9912000 Not by itself, no... Besides, mind this is a restoration that is trying to preserve the original structure, not a remodel to update it to modern construction and erase its history.
@@ZeoCyberG Yes but at the same time just slapping up another beam doesn't fix the actual issue, hence it hasn't worked the several prior attempts. Everything is open and now is the time to do it right. Could this work, maybe. What I have learned for TOH over the decades is they don't do proper repairs most of the time.
Tom boy is All In One Swiss Army, I prefer full demolition and built from the scratch but since it historical buildings better to proper fix with Tom and crews. In this pandemic this old house lift off our stress.
Whoever though a 6x8 was going to hold up the whole roof for a 20 foot span is crazy. Im using a tripled up 2x12 supported with a post every 8 feet on concrete piers just for my center floor joist girder beam.
With the original slope it was probably ok but when they changed the roof pitch it added literally tons of snow load not intended for the original framing
What are you using to parge with? Portland? If so Is the wire mesh enough to accommodate the difference in expansion/contraction between the older brick and mortar and the less flexible Portland?
I like to watch videos like this so next time when I am changing anything in my house. I can always observe and see if my contractor is doing everything right way
What type of bricks are in the house and what type of cement was used to parge the wall? Those bricks look like clay bricks with lime mortar, what is the impact of putting cement (assuming that includes Portland cement) on those bricks? Did you consider a lime, gypsum, and sand base coat for the parging?
Sounds like you know about the chemistry. So true. What are the consequences of the repairs? A chemical interaction or inert? They did not think this job thru correctly. I would not sleep in that house . Period.
Good point but it's hard to tell what they've used. From what I understand you can use a little bit of Portland cement along with lime to create a soft and porous mortar. It does not necessarily need to be 100% lime
@@vapeurdepisse that's not true. Portland cement is not the appropriate material to use with lime mortar. If the mortar is traditional lime mortar (lime, sand, and water), Portland cement makes a less porous material. It really is best to not mix materials - I know from experience in a 1755 vintage building.
That coat of cement we call it 'repellado', it ads strength to the wall and it makes it water resistant so both sides of the wall get repellado, since the bricks on their own will absorb water and then crack when the water freezes, add another coat of plaster on the inside and cement with rebar on the corners and every 2 meters on the wall, and that house isn't going anywhere.
At 2:39 .. I'm having trouble understanding how the threaded rod is attaching into the concrete sill/header. To me, it looks like the threaded rod is a couple inches below the concrete. Is this because the concrete goes down below the sill and it's just not visible behind the wood framing? I"m probably be utilizing a rod to hold an exterior wall from separating (as part of a temporary fix before some foundation work happens. I'd prefer to use something that isn't visible to the outside, but I can't see how this is holding into the concrete. Can someone explain?. Or maybe lead me to further instructions on this method?
can someone explain to me what happened at the window sill, I’m a bit confused. Did Tom drill into the concrete, insert the steel rod, the fastener inside tightens it on the window sill or was it the wood frame? Can I ask if to improve on that, add hold down brackets to the wood framing?
Don't get me wrong, Tommy is awesome. But there's just something about Norm. Probably just a nostalgia thing. But I love watching anything with Norm in it.
hii have a question i got brick house with a layer of brick veneer and want to make a patio cover . i buy bvlz but the 14 inch not come trough two brick layer to leger board
After watching this video numerous times I don't see how the rods anchor the wall without the star on the exterior? Is the rod drilled through the concrete sill or not. If the wall continues to move out won't it pull the wooden framework, parging, mesh and rod as it goes? Does it work in conjunction with the application of the LVL or is that a separate issue? Owning a 200 year old brick Federal center hall colonial in upstate NY for 34 yrs., not living there for the past 8, I recently returned to discover this situation. The exterior is 3 bricks thick. Interior front wall 43' 6" long. I only "notice" the center 2nd floor 9' 6" wall housing a Palladium window with sidelites that takes up the majority of the wall has moved away from the flanking perpendicular walls leaving significant gaps.
From what I understand they used epoxy to embed the rod into the wall. But I agree with you that the new framing isn't going to help that much because the framing is designed to support vertical loads, not horizontal loads. As usual you are strongly encouraged to consult a knowledgeable engineer to inspect the problem and design a fix.
Maybe I'm just nerding out, but I wish they had gone deeper into why the original 6x8, and the additional 2x12s weren't sufficient, and why the lvls were.
I don't like that brick pyramid think they got on the wall for supporting all those beams. Can they use/build large posts that align all the way down to the lowest floor and attach them to the outside walls? Kind of like king studs on frames.
The building lasted for over 100 years enduring all sorts of wet, windy weather and hurricanes that have hit Charleston, in addition to generations of foot traffic and weights, appliances, furniture. I'd say the original builders did all right.
100 years ago a 2x6 was at least 2" x 6" and dry, old growth with strong grain. Today, a 2x8 is 1 1/2" x 7 1/2" from wet, new growth with iffy grain. The church I work at has roof rafters that were probably installed in ~1850 and I'd put money on those beams over modern wood.
really depends on what's being used, but yea that old wood used in buildings was clear stuff that's cost prohibitive these days. You can still buy doug-fir structural-select clear but it's a fortune and most would opt for engineered products or increasing size/decreasing spacing.
The only problem with these videos is that the contractors shown are honest, competent, conscientious, do work they know how to do and they finish the job. That’s not the real world… at least in New Jersey. As a two-time condominium association president (nine years and two major projects), I discovered that all contractors claim to do everything, they will bail on you if they get a bigger job, many don’t want to work unless it’s a huge building with million$$$ to spend, they might take a down payment, refuse to do any work and the city (that failed to properly inspect before issuing a CO), lawyers and the court will tell you they can’t do anything. The same people who issue and prosecute arrest warrants for failure to pay a parking meter ticket, will tell you they will do nothing about a crooked contractor. You get your money back only through a personal and relentless pursuit of the individual. Yet if you hire a highly recommended person with 30 years of experience but no license (even for small 1-2 day jobs), a city will be incredulous. I can’t even begin to describe the persistent and chronic problem with new construction that immediately faces serious water leakage issues. There are so many buildings covered in scaffold 1-2 years after the first occupants move in. Anyway, I appreciate the information and the tips. This is not, however, the experience of countless people.
None of this actually solves the problem. The load from the roof is horizontal perpendicular to the roof line. Your wood walls and super-duper-extra-reinforced beam are just going to move with it. You need a horizontal tie going perpendicular to the roof that will pull the front and back together. You know, like a truss. I don't even think parge is gonna work - the brick and mortar is so decayed because it got wet, probably due to a roof leak (ice dams maybe). Water is still gonna get down between your parge and the brick and continue the damage. And you didn't do anything to tie your parge to the brick so it'll completely separate and fall off. You're supposed to drill holes into the old mortar and put in anchors that tie the brick to your stucco.
@@buckhorncortez Wow thanks Buck! I appreciate the encouragement, but I just have too much going on in my life right now to support running another youtube channel. Maybe if I could quit my day job as an engineer... but right now that's just wishful thinking.
Finally someone here has commented about the real issue. This is a structure. We see in this video that the structure is "broken/ failing". Therefore who would be the best person to assist us in the successful "repair" of this structure? 1. Your mother in law 2. Your local know it all contractor that was licensed like 20plus years ago 3. A licensed structural engineer that has dealt with these types of problems and understands the physics behind what is the correct solution. 4. Going on UA-cam and fixing it yourself after viewing a video like this. Hint : 1, 2, and 4 are false. Wow I am scared when I see this type of repair. They have ADDED more weight to the roof which increases the stress. Solution: seek out an engineer to discuss your options. Z
The parge repair on the brick is horrible! There's no way he could press the parge into the joints enough like when you point mortar in the traditional way, it's going to be totally separate from the brick and separate, all it does is hide the problem going on behind it. You get a lot of strength from pointing with a pointing trowel because of the compression.
don't think so, but he knows what to do but yes this type of work would need to be signed off by a structural engineer. It's a lot simpler for someone with experience to develop a plan for remodel and work with an engineer on specifics than it is for an engineer to come up with the design. The engineer may have some input such as member sizes, placement, bolt and nail types, patterns etc.
I love Norm Abrams and the guys. But, it's worrisome hearing people say "they hope so," when talking about repair jobs being successful. Where is "the structural engineer" interview before they put up the new wood?
RONG ! i AM AMAISED HOW YOU SO PRO CAN T CHOOSE THE RIGHT FIX FIX FOR THIS ! THE RGHT WAY WAS TO BUID SOME CENTRAL HOUSE PILARS SO THAT THE WEIGHT BE DISTRIBUTED ON THE CENTER OF THE HOUSE AND HAND THOSE PERIMETRALS WALLS TO IT !
This episode is seriously full of a lifetime of knowledge
Except for moisture drive through the brick which is in contact with the wood...
I just love Kevin's responses here. That is exactly how I would sound if someone was showing this to me about my house. "Ah, oh, great"
Norm and Tom remind me of my dad, so much knowledge!! Such old school intelligence!! They are the best in the business!!
Tom and Norm in Charlestown? We've reached peak This Old House.
These total disaster houses are some of the most interesting to learn about fixing. Thanks for the great content!
100% That's where the masters really shine!
House is over 100 years old so it actually held up quite well.
Love seeing Norm Abram and Tom Silva working with Kevin. You guys still rock! It brings back great memories of the Golden Years of TOH.
Been watching for about 30yrs and still love the show!
It’s good to see Norm Abram is still doing well and out working on the projects that TOH is doing.
This was 7 years ago... 😏
Gotta love Norm tho... like you, I hope he's doin well, he taught me so much on the New Yankee Workshop... 😎👍☘🍺
Kevin is such and underrated host, he's legit.
One of the best new uploads from TOH! Interesting material and a longer clip. Some videos have been too short. Even this one could've been 15 min or more, but 8 satisfied my TOH itch for the day
The amount of knowledge between these guys is incredible, combined idk if there's nothing they can fix loved this show for many years.
Love the Tommy/Norm duo back together.
Love the show guys. Greetings from Ireland
Greetings from Oregon bro☮️🌎☮️
👍❤🇨🇮
Hi Paul... I'm a Dubliner living in an old farm bungalow here in Mayo..
This house was rubble-stone built & the mortar had turned to sand so I had to repoint internally to 6'' deep, build stud walls stepped in from the stone...
I'm also lowering every ceiling by a foot or more, re-wiring, re-plumbing, new central heating pipes trenched into the floors, super-insulated ...
Its a long-term project but I enjoy working on it & it will be close to a "passive house" thermally when its finished.
These guys have inspired & educated me with their knowledge & the vids are a "must-see" ... I particularly love Norm & the New Yankee Workshop as I do woodworking too ... though my trade was as a machinist (fitter-turner)...
😎👍☘🤔
It's great to see the New Yankee still out there building stuff.
Tom, Norm all the pros at this old house, wow!
I love watching this stuff. Makes me feel much better than so much of the internet crap...
This is like my mother used to say... "If you have to ask.... you can't afford it". Even if you inherited one of these properties - you'd practically have to be a multi millionaire to afford all the renovation work. This isn't for the "fixer upper" demographic. Pricey work. Always enjoy seeing top notch work skills. The "THIS OLD HOUSE" crew certainly has that covered..
NORM!!!! good to see you on the job
...
You can tell Norm is not up to his old self, but I give the guy credit because he's keeps stroking along. I really didn't expect him to be in on that heavy lift and working on a ladder either... but he's a tough old bird!
looks pretty good to me for 71!
The money is in the details! I quote Tom all the time.👍
I hope I can work like these guys when I'm that old.
Hairs on end! Original WGBH Boston fan here, circa 1979!
Channel 2
Tom is never lost, he always has a fix :o)
Greetings from Tashkent!
This Old House: "Sometime back in the 80s someone tried to fix the roof by attaching a couple 2x12s to the main support beam, that didn't quite work, so what we're doing is attaching laminated beams and that'll fix the problem right up"
This Old House 2051 - "Sometime back in the early 21st century they tried to fix the problem of this roof by attaching 2 laminated beams to the 2 sets of 2x12s that are attaches to the original beam, that didn't quite work, so what we're going to do is attach a couple nanofiber support beams to the outside and that will fix the problem"
now the beams looks like a horrible mess..Why not use a I beam
@@zack9912000 Has to tie into the existing structure... I-Beam would have been separate...
@@ZeoCyberG I understand that but I would think it would be a stronger replacment that the mess that is there
@@zack9912000 Not by itself, no... Besides, mind this is a restoration that is trying to preserve the original structure, not a remodel to update it to modern construction and erase its history.
@@ZeoCyberG Yes but at the same time just slapping up another beam doesn't fix the actual issue, hence it hasn't worked the several prior attempts. Everything is open and now is the time to do it right. Could this work, maybe. What I have learned for TOH over the decades is they don't do proper repairs most of the time.
These guys are awesome on the show and in person at the Las Vegas World of Concrete Show.
Good Saturday afternoon to you all from Wellington Somerset in the UK
Tom boy is All In One Swiss Army, I prefer full demolition and built from the scratch but since it historical buildings better to proper fix with Tom and crews. In this pandemic this old house lift off our stress.
Yeah thats what I would of thought. The cost of redoing it so many times had to add up.
I agree.. they keep putting lipstick on a pig
Man love seeing norm on there!
Glad to see Norm on more shows.
I wish, unfortunately this is from 2014
@@waltradcliffe4482 he was my fav. The guy from Home Town looks like his son. This is my weekend drinking beer and watching Reno shows
Wow! Fix anything with enough know-how and $!
best home owners tool ever!!!
Good ole Charlestown. Those buildings are old. I use to live in one.
GREAT TO SEE NORM! Yay!
Tommy is amazing!
It's impossible to watch this and not think "She's a brick... house! She mighty mighty, just letting it all hang out..."
Whoever though a 6x8 was going to hold up the whole roof for a 20 foot span is crazy. Im using a tripled up 2x12 supported with a post every 8 feet on concrete piers just for my center floor joist girder beam.
With the original slope it was probably ok but when they changed the roof pitch it added literally tons of snow load not intended for the original framing
that 6x8 is probably old growth oak...not farmed pine for one.
Surprising how strong that brick ledge is
What are you using to parge with? Portland? If so Is the wire mesh enough to accommodate the difference in expansion/contraction between the older brick and mortar and the less flexible Portland?
Very unlikely they are using Portland. They cleaned out the mortar joints first, so filling the old joints with Portland would be ruinous.
This is a great episode
I like to watch videos like this so next time when I am changing anything in my house. I can always observe and see if my contractor is doing everything right way
Maaaaaan thanks guys soo much just made me confirm a purchase 💪🏾🙏🏽
What type of bricks are in the house and what type of cement was used to parge the wall? Those bricks look like clay bricks with lime mortar, what is the impact of putting cement (assuming that includes Portland cement) on those bricks? Did you consider a lime, gypsum, and sand base coat for the parging?
Sounds like you know about the chemistry. So true. What are the consequences of the repairs? A chemical interaction or inert? They did not think this job thru correctly. I would not sleep in that house . Period.
Good point but it's hard to tell what they've used. From what I understand you can use a little bit of Portland cement along with lime to create a soft and porous mortar. It does not necessarily need to be 100% lime
@@vapeurdepisse that's not true. Portland cement is not the appropriate material to use with lime mortar. If the mortar is traditional lime mortar (lime, sand, and water), Portland cement makes a less porous material. It really is best to not mix materials - I know from experience in a 1755 vintage building.
So good to see Norm again. ....he sure is missed on the show.
That coat of cement we call it 'repellado', it ads strength to the wall and it makes it water resistant so both sides of the wall get repellado, since the bricks on their own will absorb water and then crack when the water freezes, add another coat of plaster on the inside and cement with rebar on the corners and every 2 meters on the wall, and that house isn't going anywhere.
Norm Abrams forgot more about home repairs than most of us will ever learn.
thank you for this video. Now I know I need to use mortar and wire lath to repair my basement brick wall.
Wow been waiting for this video
She's mighty-mighty. Just lettin' it all hang out.
Abrams and Silva on same project!!!
Don't forget to read and understand all instructions and most of all wear your safety glasses. Ha ha love Norms PSA.
Got all the pros out
holy crap! I wonder how much this renovation cost!
Incredible!
At 2:39 .. I'm having trouble understanding how the threaded rod is attaching into the concrete sill/header. To me, it looks like the threaded rod is a couple inches below the concrete. Is this because the concrete goes down below the sill and it's just not visible behind the wood framing?
I"m probably be utilizing a rod to hold an exterior wall from separating (as part of a temporary fix before some foundation work happens. I'd prefer to use something that isn't visible to the outside, but I can't see how this is holding into the concrete.
Can someone explain?. Or maybe lead me to further instructions on this method?
From what I understand it's embedded into the brick using epoxy
can someone explain to me what happened at the window sill, I’m a bit confused.
Did Tom drill into the concrete, insert the steel rod, the fastener inside tightens it on the window sill or was it the wood frame?
Can I ask if to improve on that, add hold down brackets to the wood framing?
Can anyone please tell me what type of wire mesh they used here. Thank you. Best regards. Cristian
Did he put normal quickrete cement when he filled that brick wall?
Don't get me wrong, Tommy is awesome. But there's just something about Norm. Probably just a nostalgia thing. But I love watching anything with Norm in it.
If you can't find metal stucco lath use carbon fiber stucco lath. Now parge the lath.
Hand me my patching trowel.
You may remember me from Dig your own Grave and save!
Trying to restore a 1892 brick home, has 4 fireplaces, alone. Bricks look loose and mortor is crumbling. Any tips?
hii have a question i got brick house with a layer of brick veneer and want to make a patio cover . i buy bvlz but the 14 inch not come trough two brick layer to leger board
Will installing the laminated beam resting on the outside walls cause concern? bowing wall
The beam rests on the gable end walls, not the street facing walls which have the over turning moment from the formerly sagging, snow loaded roof.
How did they attach the new corbel to the old structure wall. It looks like just some grey bricks
See 6:xx forward
I LOVE TOM
You learn more from these episodes than engineering school
Structural analysis only covers the basics and the it’s mostly flat roofs
@@Kevin-mp5of all they teach you is new construction today
What is the star anchor called?
Love it!
Good "hands dirty" homebuilding episode. None of that "grow a basil with an app" nonsense. Nice!
So if I am hearing this right, the wall was being held together more or less by hope, before it was worked on?
After watching this video numerous times I don't see how the rods anchor the wall without the star on the exterior? Is the rod drilled through the concrete sill or not. If the wall continues to move out won't it pull the wooden framework, parging, mesh and rod as it goes? Does it work in conjunction with the application of the LVL or is that a separate issue?
Owning a 200 year old brick Federal center hall colonial in upstate NY for 34 yrs., not living there for the past 8, I recently returned to discover this situation. The exterior is 3 bricks thick. Interior front wall 43' 6" long. I only "notice" the center 2nd floor 9' 6" wall housing a Palladium window with sidelites that takes up the majority of the wall has moved away from the flanking perpendicular walls leaving significant gaps.
From what I understand they used epoxy to embed the rod into the wall. But I agree with you that the new framing isn't going to help that much because the framing is designed to support vertical loads, not horizontal loads.
As usual you are strongly encouraged to consult a knowledgeable engineer to inspect the problem and design a fix.
Maybe I'm just nerding out, but I wish they had gone deeper into why the original 6x8, and the additional 2x12s weren't sufficient, and why the lvls were.
Would an I beam be more useful?
I don't like that brick pyramid think they got on the wall for supporting all those beams. Can they use/build large posts that align all the way down to the lowest floor and attach them to the outside walls? Kind of like king studs on frames.
Agreed
Very interesting!
Can you comment on the cost of a renovation like this?
A crapload is my estimate
What Season is this from???
The building lasted for over 100 years enduring all sorts of wet, windy weather and hurricanes that have hit Charleston, in addition to generations of foot traffic and weights, appliances, furniture. I'd say the original builders did all right.
Wear and tear accumulates until you reach a point where you need to go something about it
Are 100yo true 2x6s strong enough for gable roof? They would use 2x8s nowadays?
100 years ago a 2x6 was at least 2" x 6" and dry, old growth with strong grain. Today, a 2x8 is 1 1/2" x 7 1/2" from wet, new growth with iffy grain. The church I work at has roof rafters that were probably installed in ~1850 and I'd put money on those beams over modern wood.
really depends on what's being used, but yea that old wood used in buildings was clear stuff that's cost prohibitive these days. You can still buy doug-fir structural-select clear but it's a fortune and most would opt for engineered products or increasing size/decreasing spacing.
They make this up as they go when they see an interest oh grab the crew and show a little bit
That will hold it...
Termites.. Hold my beer....
Won’t the new wood framing need bracing and tie? It’s basically just holding by nails to the floor
Yeah. It's really a weird fix
awesome
Putting in that beam where u lose me ,GI JOE..👴
I think you need Milwaukee impact drivers.
The only problem with these videos is that the contractors shown are honest, competent, conscientious, do work they know how to do and they finish the job. That’s not the real world… at least in New Jersey.
As a two-time condominium association president (nine years and two major projects), I discovered that all contractors claim to do everything, they will bail on you if they get a bigger job, many don’t want to work unless it’s a huge building with million$$$ to spend, they might take a down payment, refuse to do any work and the city (that failed to properly inspect before issuing a CO), lawyers and the court will tell you they can’t do anything. The same people who issue and prosecute arrest warrants for failure to pay a parking meter ticket, will tell you they will do nothing about a crooked contractor.
You get your money back only through a personal and relentless pursuit of the individual.
Yet if you hire a highly recommended person with 30 years of experience but no license (even for small 1-2 day jobs), a city will be incredulous.
I can’t even begin to describe the persistent and chronic problem with new construction that immediately faces serious water leakage issues. There are so many buildings covered in scaffold 1-2 years after the first occupants move in.
Anyway, I appreciate the information and the tips. This is not, however, the experience of countless people.
at least your not in china. New buildings collapse not leak.
Tom can fix anything but it’s gonna cost ya. Lol.
What's the original air date of this? Or is it new?
Says right in the video description, "Charlestown 2014 house"...
surprised to see the LVL resting directly on the brick
None of this actually solves the problem. The load from the roof is horizontal perpendicular to the roof line. Your wood walls and super-duper-extra-reinforced beam are just going to move with it. You need a horizontal tie going perpendicular to the roof that will pull the front and back together. You know, like a truss.
I don't even think parge is gonna work - the brick and mortar is so decayed because it got wet, probably due to a roof leak (ice dams maybe). Water is still gonna get down between your parge and the brick and continue the damage. And you didn't do anything to tie your parge to the brick so it'll completely separate and fall off. You're supposed to drill holes into the old mortar and put in anchors that tie the brick to your stucco.
Gosh...you're just so smart...you should start your own television show...called, "My Way Is Better"...
@@buckhorncortez Wow thanks Buck! I appreciate the encouragement, but I just have too much going on in my life right now to support running another youtube channel. Maybe if I could quit my day job as an engineer... but right now that's just wishful thinking.
Finally someone here has commented about the real issue. This is a structure. We see in this video that the structure is "broken/ failing". Therefore who would be the best person to assist us in the successful "repair" of this structure?
1. Your mother in law
2. Your local know it all contractor that was licensed like 20plus years ago
3. A licensed structural engineer that has dealt with these types of problems and understands the physics behind what is the correct solution.
4. Going on UA-cam and fixing it yourself after viewing a video like this.
Hint : 1, 2, and 4 are false. Wow I am scared when I see this type of repair. They have ADDED more weight to the roof which increases the stress.
Solution: seek out an engineer to discuss your options. Z
Rafter ties would be the proper fix
The parge repair on the brick is horrible! There's no way he could press the parge into the joints enough like when you point mortar in the traditional way, it's going to be totally separate from the brick and separate, all it does is hide the problem going on behind it. You get a lot of strength from pointing with a pointing trowel because of the compression.
Seems strange they never mentioned wall ties are they not used in American brick buildings?
they are now, been code for many years
Norm!!!
Dam, is Tommy an Engineer...?
don't think so, but he knows what to do but yes this type of work would need to be signed off by a structural engineer. It's a lot simpler for someone with experience to develop a plan for remodel and work with an engineer on specifics than it is for an engineer to come up with the design. The engineer may have some input such as member sizes, placement, bolt and nail types, patterns etc.
I love Norm Abrams and the guys. But, it's worrisome hearing people say "they hope so," when talking about repair jobs being successful. Where is "the structural engineer" interview before they put up the new wood?
I'm nok sure if the corbal was here before ?
Thanks Norm we know u r rhe reason behind these fixes
I would be surprised if bolting the front wall to wood stops it moving. That much weight doesn't need permission before it shifts.
For the longest time, I couldn't figure out why Tom Silva's voice sounded so familiar. It just hit me: Columbo.
I miss Norm
I miss his old show "New Yankee Workshop" I could sit and watch him build stuff for hours on end
RONG ! i AM AMAISED HOW YOU SO PRO CAN T CHOOSE THE RIGHT FIX FIX FOR THIS ! THE RGHT WAY WAS TO BUID SOME CENTRAL HOUSE PILARS SO THAT THE WEIGHT BE DISTRIBUTED ON THE CENTER OF THE HOUSE AND HAND THOSE PERIMETRALS WALLS TO IT !