Nice explanation. I live in California and have been slowly fixing damaged bricks and broken mortar in my exterior brick facade wall. I initially found the process mysterious but I now feel confident doing small touch-up jobs like this. When just replacing a couple bricks on a non-structural wall there's not too much to mess up.
Thanks for the comment Donald 👍 it must be daunting to anyone who hasn’t done anything like that but it’s actually fairly straight forward, you can take approx 4 bricks out horizontally without the need for props and if you were to lose any bricks above that it would only be a triangle shape as the rest will be supported by each other. Hopefully that makes sense?
I'm no builder but I came across your UA-cam channel, your work is awesome to watch, nice to see someone taking pride in their work. Also helped me when I needed to replace mortar voids after some poor work and the water came through on the inside. Thanks for great content.
Thanks for sharing your skill, I need to replace a brick ina cavity wall, think you have given me the confidence to tackle the job, looks like the key bit of kit is a finger trowel. At least I havn't got the added comlication of a drain pipe close proximity to the brick. Thanks
Great work. I like to use a little crowbar to move the brick around cos it can be really fiddly. Sometimes the other side of the brick is still good if you can't find a close match.
Great clip, I've got to replace maybe 20 bricks in a couple of areas and if I take my time and do one at a time it should be straightforward...you probably wouldn't try to do a run of 6 bricks in a row all at once though would you?
Hi, I have to do very similar job, but need to install air Bricks instead old imperial. I couldn’t find any information on the web as to how to install air bricks into solid brick wall of an old house. I am planing to install additional two air brick at the front of the bay wall due to damp issues. One is already there placed in the middle. It is a solid brick wall house was built back in 1900. My question, due to structural integrity reasons do I need to install lintel when installing air brick. Wall is pretty thick, more than 200 mm. Would appreciate any advice really. Many thanks.
I NEVER take the whole brick out . I chop the face off about 23-30 mm and cut a brick down lenghtways and replace it as a tile . A much better way to replace the face of a brick and much less damage done inside the plaster work . Been doung it this way for over 40 years . 🏴
Hi Christy, I wouldn’t be able to tell you unless I looked at it unfortunately but it would almost certainly would have built using lime putty. The bricks and mortar will be very dry in the loft and will need to be sufficiently wetted prior to any pointing, due to the extreme temperatures within the loft space. You may want to consider roof ventilation once pointed etc to help prolong the life of the new mortar once done.
Great video - my only comment would be to wear safety goggles and also be really careful with your left hand fingers (around 7:00 minutes into the video) when using the drill bit right next to them to remove the mortar
Using a drill you have to be very cautious to not break the surrounding bricks, which you happened to do. Therefore I prefer to use an angle grinder to cut away the first 3.5 cm which can help. Or use the drill bit on the stone itself as you're going to throw that away anyhow.
How do you know when your mortar mix is just right? The perfect mix is pretty hard to achieve only because it's fairly difficult to get the perfect amount of water added.
Just be cautious when adding water as the moisture content of the sand will vary greatly. Always add a small amount at a time and give it a good mix before adding more. No such thing as perfect but you can get pretty close 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks. I think I figured it out yesterday after experimenting. When using a mixer, I found it was ready when it became sloppy. So, the moment it went from being stiff when turned with a gauging trowel to soft, it was ready. Using a firmer mix made it impossible to butter the bricks (even though the bricks were wet) and any mortar on the top or sides would be pushed off rather than moving into the space desired.
It will be fairly water resistant but any wall, even one with immaculate pointing can absorb moisture and it can come through if the rain is driven by a strong wind. Generally happens to single skin garages in the autumn/winter due to low temperatures and long periods of rain.
You could use stormdry if the wall isn’t painted, which ‘should’ prevent the water coming through, it’s definitely the best one on the market to date. Alternatively if it wouldn’t look out of place, you could consider the option of cement board cladding ( if you want it to look like a beach hut ) this would make it fully waterproof.
All these videos show a similar method for applying the mortar. It seems to me there has to be a better way. Isn't there an invention that would provide positional standoff/shim for the brick to be held in position with a backing board for the interior side of the brick and then a wetter mortar be added or injected similar to how foam insulation is?
Just cut the front off the spalled brick don't be scared of your hammer and chisel cut a slip off your replacement add some unibond. To your muck stick it in and point it 😀
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington its not a bodge it's a perfectly acceptable method plus you get 2 bricks for the price of 1 invaluable when replacements are hard to source also certain roof tiles eg kent pegs cut to size will do the trick
Just use a mini handle grinder with a diamond just cut through joint top and bottom and the 2 side joint so much easy some time the brick come out in one old school that way was show how to do it 👍
Nice. Or you can spend £20 on a cheap angle grinder and finish the job while you're only on your second brick and without knackering your arms with all the vibrations
I went to look at a job in Rhode island and it was spalled bricks on stair risers I need to replace ten brick I got it for $1,600 us dollars is that insane lol
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington all it is is 5 single bricks on 3 separate stair risers that are Spalled and a corner that needs to be cut and plugged which is 3 bricks. I gave a wacky price threw a text two minutes later customer said yes that's fine can u start Monday? Lol
As long as you work in a triangle shape you wouldn’t need to support the brickwork, however I wouldn’t take out more than 4 bricks wide without support
Nice explanation. I live in California and have been slowly fixing damaged bricks and broken mortar in my exterior brick facade wall. I initially found the process mysterious but I now feel confident doing small touch-up jobs like this. When just replacing a couple bricks on a non-structural wall there's not too much to mess up.
Thanks for the comment Donald 👍 it must be daunting to anyone who hasn’t done anything like that but it’s actually fairly straight forward, you can take approx 4 bricks out horizontally without the need for props and if you were to lose any bricks above that it would only be a triangle shape as the rest will be supported by each other. Hopefully that makes sense?
Ive just bought a 1950s house on the North Wales coast. There are a few damaged bricks. This was just what i was looking for. Thanks a lot.
I'm no builder but I came across your UA-cam channel, your work is awesome to watch, nice to see someone taking pride in their work.
Also helped me when I needed to replace mortar voids after some poor work and the water came through on the inside.
Thanks for great content.
Thanks Tim, I really appreciate your comment and all the comments I get, it’s nice to know that I’m helping people out. More videos will come.
You've done splendid work in explaining and performing the repair. Thank you for your presentation.
You are very welcome
excellent video thanks the clearest Ive seen on pointing, I like the birds beak finish
Awesome, thank you!
Try turning the UA-cam auto-captions on when you're using the drill. You get some interesting results lol :D
Thanks for sharing your skill, I need to replace a brick ina cavity wall, think you have given me the confidence to tackle the job, looks like the key bit of kit is a finger trowel. At least I havn't got the added comlication of a drain pipe close proximity to the brick. Thanks
Glad I could help
Many Thanks. Just the info. I needed to sort out garage wall.! 👍
Great work. I like to use a little crowbar to move the brick around cos it can be really fiddly. Sometimes the other side of the brick is still good if you can't find a close match.
Excellent video. What do you do when rebuilding a good portion of a bricked outer wall, but they no longer make that color brick?
Great clip, I've got to replace maybe 20 bricks in a couple of areas and if I take my time and do one at a time it should be straightforward...you probably wouldn't try to do a run of 6 bricks in a row all at once though would you?
I would only do three in a row to be safe.
Yes, I was sure it would be something like that, thanks 🙂@@CoastalWallTiesRustington
Hi, I have to do very similar job, but need to install air Bricks instead old imperial. I couldn’t find any information on the web as to how to install air bricks into solid brick wall of an old house. I am planing to install additional two air brick at the front of the bay wall due to damp issues. One is already there placed in the middle. It is a solid brick wall house was built back in 1900. My question, due to structural integrity reasons do I need to install lintel when installing air brick. Wall is pretty thick, more than 200 mm. Would appreciate any advice really. Many thanks.
Hi, no you don’t have to install a lintel when fitting air bricks
Thank you for taking time to reply to me, I really appreciated it. Many thanks. All the best 👍
nicely done! I can no longer use a hammer drill b/c of problems with my right arm, so I'm taking another approach. thanks for the vid, though.
Hey I live in New Jersey and my walk up steps Stanton bricks are breaking apart I’m thinking water / freezing etc so I’m gonna try this
Good video Mate cheers nice job just what I wanted to see you my friend are a real professional
Thanks 👍
Hammer function to use as chisel. Nice. No chisel and hammer needed or hardly at all. 👍
Makes it nice and easy 👍
VERY GOOD VEDIO FOR REPLACE NEW BRICKS.
Stunning. Superb instruction. Thanks!
Finaly someone showed the diy, intead of the "use specialy 100-150 euro tool" just Drill it out.
I NEVER take the whole brick out . I chop the face off about 23-30 mm and cut a brick down lenghtways and replace it as a tile . A much better way to replace the face of a brick and much less damage done inside the plaster work . Been doung it this way for over 40 years . 🏴
It’s certainly another way of doing it 👍
What is the mortar mix for interior chimney brickwork house age 1860s the lime mortar is now powder and bricks are loose in the loft.
Hi Christy, I wouldn’t be able to tell you unless I looked at it unfortunately but it would almost certainly would have built using lime putty. The bricks and mortar will be very dry in the loft and will need to be sufficiently wetted prior to any pointing, due to the extreme temperatures within the loft space. You may want to consider roof ventilation once pointed etc to help prolong the life of the new mortar once done.
Can I use a chisel and hammer to break mortar and old brick? 0:07
great work mate do you remove the down pipes sometimes when filling or raking out when you cant get behind the downpipe
Yes if it’s upvc then we will remove but cast iron ones we chisel behind
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington 👍 thanks one more question sorry
but do you charge extra for different shapes
Yes, each style requires a varied amount of time, so price according to how long it takes you.
Great video - my only comment would be to wear safety goggles and also be really careful with your left hand fingers (around 7:00 minutes into the video) when using the drill bit right next to them to remove the mortar
greaet video, cheers from Canada.
Thanks 👍 I love Canada, such a great country. 🇨🇦
Using a drill you have to be very cautious to not break the surrounding bricks, which you happened to do. Therefore I prefer to use an angle grinder to cut away the first 3.5 cm which can help. Or use the drill bit on the stone itself as you're going to throw that away anyhow.
Nicely done and very informative. Thanks a lot. Remember your eye protection.
Thank you, I do normally wear eye protection👍
and hearing protection!
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge big help 🤝
A pleasure to help 👍
Brilliant and a great help many thanks
Glad it helped
How do you know when your mortar mix is just right? The perfect mix is pretty hard to achieve only because it's fairly difficult to get the perfect amount of water added.
Just be cautious when adding water as the moisture content of the sand will vary greatly. Always add a small amount at a time and give it a good mix before adding more. No such thing as perfect but you can get pretty close 👍
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks. I think I figured it out yesterday after experimenting. When using a mixer, I found it was ready when it became sloppy. So, the moment it went from being stiff when turned with a gauging trowel to soft, it was ready.
Using a firmer mix made it impossible to butter the bricks (even though the bricks were wet) and any mortar on the top or sides would be pushed off rather than moving into the space desired.
this video helped me beat sponge
You just gotta love a good tradesman.
Nice job 👍
Thanks 👍
Great job! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Random question...is a single skin wall fairly water resistant if the pointing is mostly sound?
It will be fairly water resistant but any wall, even one with immaculate pointing can absorb moisture and it can come through if the rain is driven by a strong wind. Generally happens to single skin garages in the autumn/winter due to low temperatures and long periods of rain.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington Thanks for the reply 👍 would you recommend water proofers such as stormdry or Thompson's water seal?
You could use stormdry if the wall isn’t painted, which ‘should’ prevent the water coming through, it’s definitely the best one on the market to date. Alternatively if it wouldn’t look out of place, you could consider the option of cement board cladding ( if you want it to look like a beach hut ) this would make it fully waterproof.
All these videos show a similar method for applying the mortar. It seems to me there has to be a better way.
Isn't there an invention that would provide positional standoff/shim for the brick to be held in position with a backing board for the interior side of the brick and then a wetter mortar be added or injected similar to how foam insulation is?
Very good method.
Excellent
Well expressed
Walll still looks knackered and needs repointing. Pointless ad you chipped the brick nextdoor 😮😮
It was repointed and yes a little corner came off but nothing too drastic. Always one who picks holes 🤣
not to criticize but you right perp looks massive
Just cut the front off the spalled brick don't be scared of your hammer and chisel cut a slip off your replacement add some unibond. To your muck stick it in and point it 😀
If I wanted to bodge it, then that would certainly be a good way of doing it 🤣
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington its not a bodge it's a perfectly acceptable method plus you get 2 bricks for the price of 1 invaluable when replacements are hard to source also certain roof tiles eg kent pegs cut to size will do the trick
Totally acceptable if your short on matching bricks etc 👍
Pelicula calie
A ba
Thanks for that
thanks
Just use a mini handle grinder with a diamond just cut through joint top and bottom and the 2 side joint so much easy some time the brick come out in one old school that way was show how to do it 👍
Nice. Or you can spend £20 on a cheap angle grinder and finish the job while you're only on your second brick and without knackering your arms with all the vibrations
Grinder doesn't reach the back tho
See you know your stuff,😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Dude, what was wrong with the first brick?
It was spalling and the client wanted the brick replaced prior to repointing the entire elevation
Where are you mate ?
On that particular job it’s East Sussex but we cover sussex and hampshire
Sds with breaker bit.brick would be out in less than a minute. This way is so much slower and no more effective
Entirely up to you the way you do it, but generally speaking if you chisel out the brick, you have a good chance of debris falling into the cavity. 👍
I went to look at a job in Rhode island and it was spalled bricks on stair risers I need to replace ten brick I got it for $1,600 us dollars is that insane lol
Unbelievable! Sounds like I need to immigrate.
@@CoastalWallTiesRustington all it is is 5 single bricks on 3 separate stair risers that are Spalled and a corner that needs to be cut and plugged which is 3 bricks. I gave a wacky price threw a text two minutes later customer said yes that's fine can u start Monday? Lol
Bricks a bit small 😂
Complete novice. If taking out multiple bricks wall would need to be supported? Thanks
As long as you work in a triangle shape you wouldn’t need to support the brickwork, however I wouldn’t take out more than 4 bricks wide without support
Pelicula Six iol