I’m a union tuck pointer and my 6 yr old nephew could of done the same thing lol smh ,that’s why u hire a professional it’s not as easy as people think lol obviously
Ben, I am doing a repair on a brick garage and can use some advice. What could be better done here? I liked the technique with using the bag for the vertical lines, but how overall should it be smoothed down?
Add this to the comments below. This is called "Repointing" "Tuck Pointing" is a specific decorative type of pointing. You should match the strength of the mortar to be less than strength of the bricks - never "High Strength" which does not allow bricks to expand or expel water.
When the bricks have lost their bond like the top course there, you have to reset the brick because it will fail. Using fast set mortar is a poor choice for repointing. Its a hydraulic cement that hardens like a rock. You never want the mortar to be harder than the brick. When the bricks try to expand, they will crack. When repointing you want to fill the joints completely, compress the joints, then strike. You skipped compressing the joints and left voids in the joints.
Compressing, he means forcing the joints or mortar all the way in to ensure no dead spots or voids are left that you can't see. This creates a weak joint. Striking is what he's doing at the end with the finger trowel to clean the joint. He skipped an important step and used the wrong mix.
Unless you're a pro at laying bricks (or you're Speedy Gonzales!) the only thing I probably would not use is that rapid set mortar mix. It has only about a 10 minute or less working time and and you have to go like hell to get it where you want it before it starts to set up. I'd use regular mortar mix instead.
The Rapid Set is really good for bag work, because of all the admixtures. It's really "creamy" and it sticks well. Although, you do need to work quickly. It's best for smaller jobs but I love using it.
Wait for the mortar to dry, between 30 and 45 min before cleaning the joints. It will leave the brick cleaner and without any cement residue on it. Working as clean as possible is key.
How do you get the mortar to flow out your grout bag like fluffy butter ? I am not a Mason by profession but I have repointed and relaid several chimneys . I also repointed my 100 plus year old brick house over course of several years. Was not fun ,40 feet in the air on scaffold .I got proficient enough that I made some money doing brick repairs . But , I just can't get the hang of a grout bag. I always was using regular mortar mix in a bag or mixing masonry cement with sand my self! When you use a bag are you using a lighter ,less sand mortar ? I ve tried making it wetter and it just ooozes water out , still doesn't flow out nice . I gave up and just stick to picking it up on trowel and twisting my wrist to load the vertical joints! What's the secret !
Just add a little more mortar to make it creamier. Or use Portland Lime. It seems to work good for me. And stay away from the thick grout bags. By the plastic throw aways on Amazon. They handle much better. Be sure to use both hands. It is tricky. I've been training three different guys for 3 years and I'm still the only one that can do it without making a mess
@@davidr4500 I will order some plastic bags on Amazon.. but which bags? many reviews say the seams split but I guess that depends on the viscosity of your mud mixture.
So my house has the mortor coming over excessively it seemed this was the “style” I guess? My q is is there a way to hire someone to scrape it so all the excess is off making its appearance better? Or use a sander as you are..
I have an old brick house that is almost 200 years old, so the bricks are more of the soft clay variety. Is it ok to use newer mortar on these types of old bricks? It won't crack them or anything? Another concern I have is since the building is so old, there are many areas where you can tell there is massive amounts of mortar missing, gapping holes that appear to go behind the brick, so it appears that there is most likely mortar missing behind the wall. Should I just get a pipping bag and squeeze and squeeze mortar back behind the bricks until I can't anymore? Seems to be a nightmare project. Ha Ha
No. No. No. No. Old homes were built using lime mortar. You need a lime mortar mix. If you decide that you want to make it yourself, make sure that you are using lime that is 100% lime. Most of the lime that you can buy at the store is going to be dolomitic, meaning that it has a high magnesium content. This will not work. You need 100% lime. I spent the better part of two weeks conducting all of the research on this to finally understand everything that was needed for my home. It's a 1890 these Baltimore row house. There is a company called limeworks and they are located in Lancaster maryland. They sell premixed high calcium content lime mortar mix perfect for use in older lime mortar homes. Brick work is not hard but it is tedious. Start from the top and work your way down. Do not be lazy about it. Do it right or don't do it at all.
thanks for this video. i have bricks around my house that looks similar to this demo. now I know what mortar to use and how to repair my walls. you make it look easy. thanks again.
I have no knowledge on masonry, but after sanding all out, shouldn't you pack it in and make sure its solid as appose to filling the front gaps (lightly for aesthetics?)
yes I agree it didn't look like he pumped enough in. You can run your pointing tool along behind the bag to help create more back pressure. This may take a helper.
that rapid set is premixed and he had to add water for the bag... that first batch he tucked off the trowel was to thick for a bag. But others have said you want a softer mortar. After getting a few stuck mortar bags you get the feel for how juicy it needs to be.
That was just basic rubbed in pointing, tuck pointing gives the impression of a fine mortar joint and is achieved by pointing with lime mortar the same colour as the brick and then adding the second lime joint in a contrasting colour.
Just no freezing times for first 3-5 days... of if 30 but warm days you can cover with insulated cover. A propane heater and tent can work but to much time if your trying to make money.
Thanks for the great instruction for us Newbies. Where did you get the tuck trowel? The layers of personal protection equipment seem excessive to me, but this comes from a bloke that will energize a 1000 amp breaker in a t-shirt and shorts. Keep the wisdom coming!
excessive until a dull grinder wheel grabs and kicks back, ive personally watched it happen and split my buddys forehead open hah also, mortar dust is extremely toxic and awful, run a grinder or a few hours and see how your lungs feel after haha
Jesus Christ! OSHA would kill me for not using a vac setup on that grinder! You’re definitely a brick layer using your brick trail and a bag. Local 1 Historical restoration specialist.
i Might be doing some tuck pointing on my house. It was built in 1909, and he said he was using a what it sounded like was a type S motar from what I've been learning I think I should use type O. If anyone know the answer would appreciate
U need to use a pointing tool to pack the joint, you will never get away with using a bag on a city,state,or federal job,should not use quick set,didn't clean the joint,didn't moisten the joint,it will crack by next summer and owner will be paying again to have someone do it the right way
Nobody in the US knows the proper terminology, I had to dig through over a dozen videos before I found actual tuck pointing: ua-cam.com/video/A4uNGxkTlJY/v-deo.html
@@AB-wf8ek Thanks for sharing that M D, I thought tuck meant 'tucked in' as most of the brick work I see is so it seemed natural that it would be called that, also the video share shows a good technique for 'basic' pointing, very clean!
I use the plastic bags where you can cut the bag to size and squeeze it in between the bricks.This tip is one size only and is getting mortar all over the bricks and leaves a film even when cleaned.
Could ANYONE tell me if I’m supposed to seal up with Foam or mortar the large gap that runs up the side our Brick wall front? My wife doesn’t want hornets 🐝 or bees to next back there. But I don’t want to seal up the whole side if moisture needs to escape. Please help!
Best to work neat. keep fingers clean and a brush or dryish sponge to knock off grout on the brick face. and then after an hour you can wash the bricks off trying not to touch or wash out the lines. Some use muratic acid to wash the bricks off but most money making job pro stone masons or layers dont need to wash much at all. IT is a thing of beauty to watch their austere movement's and speed.
I know nothing about mortar and I tried it and half of the mortar was on the floor ........ 😂 time to hire a professional..... I think I didn’t clean it enough
This video should be taken as a lesson on what you should not do. 1) Any true professional will use dust extraction when cutting out mortar joints. Typically for every m2 of brickwork you will get 5kg or 11lb of dust. The average job size I do is around 30m2 producing 150kg or 330lbs of of fine dust. If you are letting this into the environment it will end up everywhere especially if you are working at height and there is even a slight breeze your neighbours cars, houses, washing etc will be covered. 2) Those bricks were far too dry to be applying mortar to. They needed to be damped down first. 3) You smeared mortar all up the brick faces. 4) You didn't fully fill the joints. There are voids behind the mortar you applied. 5) You finished the joints very poorly and you didn't wait long enough for the mortar to go off so there is no compression that adds strength. This is the type of work that I have to go and rectify for people after they've had it done by someone that doesn't really know what they're doing. I also have to charge for cleaning up the original job which can be very time consuming so the poor home owner has to pay for the original bad work then pay for a clean up and then pay for me to do it correctly all over again. Instead they should have found a true professional the first time. Pointing is not as easy as people think.
Pointing is easy if you know what your doing. The guy on the video is a vagina for using all the protection he used. All I do is hold my breath and cut the mortar away. No dust extraction needed, it is construction work if your worried about dust don't get work done.
The title should read "how to make bricks spall". Only a true momo would use that "Mortar Mix" on brick work. That stuff is basically high strength grout with sand. In a about a week it will be ten times stronger than type N. When the brick can't move she goes pop.
ua-cam.com/video/m0iisF78STo/v-deo.html different type of pointing, but my joints are full, the old stock brick is CLEAN. this video is an abysmal display of workmanship, he clearly isn't a bricklayer or had experience in this field, just some pen pusher thinking he knows what hes doing.
Why? Because the guy making this doesn't really know what he's doing? Play nice? He cleared out most of the remaining mortar and replaced with 1/2"? Maybe? Structurally solid now I guess. Then rakes it when it's really wet smearing the brick? Guess your standard for workmanship is very low. Must be from NA. And when the wall/chimney collaspes please ensure you aren't standing near it telling your friends how you told those rascals online how they should make their own video and leave this poor fellow alone. No cleaning or moisturing joints before repointing? No sealer? DIY wrong.
C Ber well, perhaps some knowledge of best practices based from experience would be helpful. Hard mortar is not nice to brick over time. The brick will actually deteriorate from the hardness of the mortar. Just because you show up for the game, you don't necessarily deserve s trophy. The kids who practiced at home on off days and brought more to the game should always be given respect. There are plenty of games to go around, just be sure you're good if you expect a trophy....
I feel like he could have been so effective by putting the nozzle deep into the joint. But it looked like he just squeezed it on the outside. I think the work would have actually benefited fro him using the old way of packing the mortar deeper into the joint. Sigh...
Your doing it backwards,when you point ,you pull the mud into the mud,you don't point and work away from it,and in Wisconsin ,they would get laffed at,, especially on a city , county or state job,they would kick your whole company out of you used a bag
I mean for the technique I just seen the finished product didn't look bad at all. I was genuinely surprised because it looked like a total hack job to me at first
Agreed. Isn't this repointing? Tuck pointing uses mortar that is the same color as the brick on the top and bottom to thin out the appearance of the motor joint?
and yet, this is exactly the kind of sloppy work the company i hired to repoint my house did. and there were so many areas they missed (avoided) that i am simply going to do the rest myself. i KNOW i can do a better job
I think I would not use rapid set if you are a rank amateur at this because it takes a lot of practice to get good and the amateur will be very slow and end up with a bucket of rock. Even then you want to make up small amounts often. It will save in the long run.
Wow what did I just watch, who post a video and no nothing about what there posting, 17 year Mason here buddy 3rd generation to do it in my family.. you my friend need to be at the mixer..
This beats the garbage they sell in tubes at the hardware stores. A lot of complaints here but at least it looks more like mortar than the goo in tubes. May not have been a professional job but that costs a fortune if you can even get someone to quote this kind of work. I'll give it a try.
I was quoted $30k to do one 2 story wall...they said they would finish it in 3 or 4 days. Ha! Who gets $30k for less than a weeks worth of work. So, I dont have that kind of money to spend on my bricks so Im doing the work myself and if it takes 2 years it takes 2 years. I paid $150 for custom mortar mixology. So I know the exact type of mortar for my bricks. And I can order as little or as much mortar as I want. I might pay $400 for a pointing class to practice. And I'm looking for a ladder as well as watching ladder safety videos.
This guy has NO IDEA !!!
I came here to see how to do this myself because someone else did a job like him!
😂😂😂
Sad truth
Wow thought the same! 😭🤣
😆😆😆
I’m a union tuck pointer and my 6 yr old nephew could of done the same thing lol smh ,that’s why u hire a professional it’s not as easy as people think lol obviously
I am a bricklayer, and that was the roughest work i have ever seen!
I agree bud he probably doesn't have the trowel and tool technique
A brush would have helped
Ben, I am doing a repair on a brick garage and can use some advice. What could be better done here? I liked the technique with using the bag for the vertical lines, but how overall should it be smoothed down?
@@michaelsignorelli1874 blindfold would help
I'm here because some mason in Seattle wants to charge $165hr for brick repairs. Crazy! His work looks fine to me.
Add this to the comments below.
This is called "Repointing"
"Tuck Pointing" is a specific decorative type of pointing.
You should match the strength of the mortar to be less than strength of the bricks - never "High Strength" which does not allow bricks to expand or expel water.
Never trust a man who confuses horizontal and vertical. Lol
its good to point out you are never to old to retrain , he needs to .
You are never too old to learn proper grammar too! You are spaced out!
When the bricks have lost their bond like the top course there, you have to reset the brick because it will fail. Using fast set mortar is a poor choice for repointing. Its a hydraulic cement that hardens like a rock. You never want the mortar to be harder than the brick. When the bricks try to expand, they will crack. When repointing you want to fill the joints completely, compress the joints, then strike. You skipped compressing the joints and left voids in the joints.
Can you recommend a video about how to do that, please?
What do you mean by compress the joints, then strike?
Yo Jack Jack, you got questions
Jack Jack?????? where"s your video?
Compressing, he means forcing the joints or mortar all the way in to ensure no dead spots or voids are left that you can't see. This creates a weak joint. Striking is what he's doing at the end with the finger trowel to clean the joint. He skipped an important step and used the wrong mix.
Unless you're a pro at laying bricks (or you're Speedy Gonzales!) the only thing I probably would not use is that rapid set mortar mix. It has only about a 10 minute or less working time and and you have to go like hell to get it where you want it before it starts to set up. I'd use regular mortar mix instead.
Speedy coudn't get over the wall
speedy couldn't get over the border wall
good advice
The Rapid Set is really good for bag work, because of all the admixtures. It's really "creamy" and it sticks well. Although, you do need to work quickly. It's best for smaller jobs but I love using it.
William Miller doesn't even know how to edit his comments.
Crap, is this guy for real 😊
Could one of you brick mason types direct me to a proper training vid
😂😂😂😂
Wait for the mortar to dry, between 30 and 45 min before cleaning the joints. It will leave the brick cleaner and without any cement residue on it. Working as clean as possible is key.
You need to wet the existing mortar first, key step.
I usually wet the area that I cleaned out in the joints too before applying mortar.
@@MrDcseltzer Yes, it needs to be so wet it won't suck the moisture out of the new mortar so it can setup properly.
Bonding Agent ?
@@mikebaranHVACGOD wetting is the 'bonding agent' for pointing and even surface work, leave the other stuff in the store!!
@@MrDcseltzer very good idea to have a water sprayer to prewet the bricks so they dont suck all the moisture out and prevent curing.
Im a chimney mason and that right there looked like me doing it on the 1st day lol
How do you get the mortar to flow out your grout bag like fluffy butter ? I am not a Mason by profession but I have repointed and relaid several chimneys . I also repointed my 100 plus year old brick house over course of several years. Was not fun ,40 feet in the air on scaffold .I got proficient enough that I made some money doing brick repairs . But , I just can't get the hang of a grout bag. I always was using regular mortar mix in a bag or mixing masonry cement with sand my self! When you use a bag are you using a lighter ,less sand mortar ? I ve tried making it wetter and it just ooozes water out , still doesn't flow out nice . I gave up and just stick to picking it up on trowel and twisting my wrist to load the vertical joints! What's the secret !
To get a creamier mortar, a touch of thinset in the mix, I don't use the squeeze bag either, pointing is never fun...
Just add a little more mortar to make it creamier. Or use Portland Lime. It seems to work good for me. And stay away from the thick grout bags. By the plastic throw aways on Amazon. They handle much better. Be sure to use both hands. It is tricky. I've been training three different guys for 3 years and I'm still the only one that can do it without making a mess
@@davidr4500 I will order some plastic bags on Amazon.. but which bags? many reviews say the seams split but I guess that depends on the viscosity of your mud mixture.
@elkski Utah kraft tool makes good bags
@@elkskiutah8204I used a zip lock back...try silicone pastry bags
So my house has the mortor coming over excessively it seemed this was the “style” I guess? My q is is there a way to hire someone to scrape it so all the excess is off making its appearance better? Or use a sander as you are..
Doesn't the dry bricks cause the moisture in the mortar to be pulled out???? I thought you were suppose to brush your joints afterwards.
I came here to find out how to repair mortar joints, but the comments got me thinking about how many experts their are in this field. OK next videos
I have an old brick house that is almost 200 years old, so the bricks are more of the soft clay variety. Is it ok to use newer mortar on these types of old bricks? It won't crack them or anything?
Another concern I have is since the building is so old, there are many areas where you can tell there is massive amounts of mortar missing, gapping holes that appear to go behind the brick, so it appears that there is most likely mortar missing behind the wall. Should I just get a pipping bag and squeeze and squeeze mortar back behind the bricks until I can't anymore?
Seems to be a nightmare project. Ha Ha
No. No. No. No. Old homes were built using lime mortar. You need a lime mortar mix. If you decide that you want to make it yourself, make sure that you are using lime that is 100% lime. Most of the lime that you can buy at the store is going to be dolomitic, meaning that it has a high magnesium content. This will not work. You need 100% lime.
I spent the better part of two weeks conducting all of the research on this to finally understand everything that was needed for my home. It's a 1890 these Baltimore row house. There is a company called limeworks and they are located in Lancaster maryland. They sell premixed high calcium content lime mortar mix perfect for use in older lime mortar homes.
Brick work is not hard but it is tedious. Start from the top and work your way down. Do not be lazy about it. Do it right or don't do it at all.
thanks for this video. i have bricks around my house that looks similar to this demo. now I know what mortar to use and how to repair my walls. you make it look easy. thanks again.
You don't know from this video
I have no knowledge on masonry, but after sanding all out, shouldn't you pack it in and make sure its solid as appose to filling the front gaps (lightly for aesthetics?)
Yeah. Everything ive seen says to fill the whole gap. Not just the front face.
yes I agree it didn't look like he pumped enough in. You can run your pointing tool along behind the bag to help create more back pressure. This may take a helper.
During the day he decorates cakes at Kroger's
😂
if you don't have anything nice to say keep it to yourself
😂😂😂
I read some of your funny comments, but what is the bag (squeezing the mortar in) called and where can you buy it?
I think it's called a grout bag. You can get them at most big hardware or home improvement stores.
I no longer know what horizontal means... Brush works pretty good
That’s funny! I thought the same thing
Hello! What’s the ratio of mix to water? I’d like to use a mortar bag for an upcoming project! Great video, thank you!
that rapid set is premixed and he had to add water for the bag... that first batch he tucked off the trowel was to thick for a bag. But others have said you want a softer mortar. After getting a few stuck mortar bags you get the feel for how juicy it needs to be.
@@elkskiutah8204 Thanks!
this thing works like a champ, i was able to do my repair in no time.
What's that tool called you're forcing into the brick
That's his....oh never mind.
What's a good Brand of mortar bag you like for this type of brick repair? Reviews I've read are quite negative.
Great demonstration on what not to do, thanks!
That was just basic rubbed in pointing, tuck pointing gives the impression of a fine mortar joint and is achieved by pointing with lime mortar the same colour as the brick and then adding the second lime joint in a contrasting colour.
I have no idea what you just said.
Hello
Where can I get the bag is there ready cement
Is there a time of year when this is best to be done? Can it be done in October or November?
Just no freezing times for first 3-5 days... of if 30 but warm days you can cover with insulated cover. A propane heater and tent can work but to much time if your trying to make money.
Thanks for the great instruction for us Newbies. Where did you get the tuck trowel? The layers of personal protection equipment seem excessive to me, but this comes from a bloke that will energize a 1000 amp breaker in a t-shirt and shorts. Keep the wisdom coming!
You've never seen a 1000 amp breaker.
thats a Chinese made diamond saw blade at 4000RPM
Better safe and sorry.
excessive until a dull grinder wheel grabs and kicks back, ive personally watched it happen and split my buddys forehead open hah also, mortar dust is extremely toxic and awful, run a grinder or a few hours and see how your lungs feel after haha
Verticals first, then horizontal. Do the horizontal from the edge inward. That way you don't lose the mortar from the corners.
Hard disagree I'm a beds then heads man myself, on the second strike that is. Really doesn't matter more of a preference thing
@logan5520 more of a clean lines and appearance thing
Look, the Fuller Brush guy only with bricks, jeez!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us....
Jesus Christ! OSHA would kill me for not using a vac setup on that grinder! You’re definitely a brick layer using your brick trail and a bag. Local 1 Historical restoration specialist.
You need 33 AD restoration. More necessary for you than the vac set-up, because you are ignoring what is more lethal.
You dont need to wet the surface before laying the new stuff in?
i Might be doing some tuck pointing on my house. It was built in 1909, and he said he was using a what it sounded like was a type S motar from what I've been learning I think I should use type O. If anyone know the answer would appreciate
Depends Where You Live...Here in midwest Where We Freeze And Thaw, We Use S Mortar...
U need to use a pointing tool to pack the joint, you will never get away with using a bag on a city,state,or federal job,should not use quick set,didn't clean the joint,didn't moisten the joint,it will crack by next summer and owner will be paying again to have someone do it the right way
Ok, there's all that, and then there's his snazzy logo.
Re-pointing is not tuck pointing. I don't know why this is so difficult for people to understand.
Nobody in the US knows the proper terminology, I had to dig through over a dozen videos before I found actual tuck pointing: ua-cam.com/video/A4uNGxkTlJY/v-deo.html
@@AB-wf8ek Plenty of people here know this. It's a source of irritation to many.
@@AB-wf8ek Thanks for sharing that M D, I thought tuck meant 'tucked in' as most of the brick work I see is so it seemed natural that it would be called that, also the video share shows a good technique for 'basic' pointing, very clean!
I use the plastic bags where you can cut the bag to size and squeeze it in between the bricks.This tip is one size only and is getting mortar all over the bricks and leaves a film even when cleaned.
No Bonding Agent ?...After A Year Or So, Wont The New Mortar Separate Away From The Old ???
did you get paided?after..then great job
Could ANYONE tell me if I’m supposed to seal up with Foam or mortar the large gap that runs up the side our Brick wall front? My wife doesn’t want hornets 🐝 or bees to next back there. But I don’t want to seal up the whole side if moisture needs to escape. Please help!
No water spray?
this is comedy gold
shotty work eddie
Was this your first time doing this?
I Apreciate this video
As soon as you started up that grinder, I could smell the dust
What about the cleaning phase?
Best to work neat. keep fingers clean and a brush or dryish sponge to knock off grout on the brick face. and then after an hour you can wash the bricks off trying not to touch or wash out the lines. Some use muratic acid to wash the bricks off but most money making job pro stone masons or layers dont need to wash much at all. IT is a thing of beauty to watch their austere movement's and speed.
Awesome! You make it look so easy! I totally enjoyed the video! Thank you!
He made it look easy because he was doing it so badly !
I know nothing about mortar and I tried it and half of the mortar was on the floor ........ 😂 time to hire a professional..... I think I didn’t clean it enough
Stevie Wonders pointing school
Thank you! Great video! That's exactly what i will do to fix cracks in block wall.
Just let a pointer do that. You go lay brick over there. Hahaha good job my man.
Who is this guy?
I think its Buddy Hackett
This video should be taken as a lesson on what you should not do.
1) Any true professional will use dust extraction when cutting out mortar joints. Typically for every m2 of brickwork you will get 5kg or 11lb of dust. The average job size I do is around 30m2 producing 150kg or 330lbs of of fine dust. If you are letting this into the environment it will end up everywhere especially if you are working at height and there is even a slight breeze your neighbours cars, houses, washing etc will be covered.
2) Those bricks were far too dry to be applying mortar to. They needed to be damped down first.
3) You smeared mortar all up the brick faces.
4) You didn't fully fill the joints. There are voids behind the mortar you applied.
5) You finished the joints very poorly and you didn't wait long enough for the mortar to go off so there is no compression that adds strength.
This is the type of work that I have to go and rectify for people after they've had it done by someone that doesn't really know what they're doing. I also have to charge for cleaning up the original job which can be very time consuming so the poor home owner has to pay for the original bad work then pay for a clean up and then pay for me to do it correctly all over again. Instead they should have found a true professional the first time. Pointing is not as easy as people think.
Well written Sam Yandall-Pay us now or pay us much more later
Sam, how about making a video?
Pointing is easy if you know what your doing. The guy on the video is a vagina for using all the protection he used. All I do is hold my breath and cut the mortar away. No dust extraction needed, it is construction work if your worried about dust don't get work done.
Salty
Ray, dust?? Humm, isn't it a wee bit worse than "dust"?
With that result, why is he worried about getting it on the surface of the brick???
Thank you for the demo/
I have to look up horizontal and vertical. This guy is blowing my mind from what I’ve learned. Up is not up anymore
Its cause his head was tilted sideways
Are you really Alan Kramer?
Fair play,at least you having a go at it,good luck dude x
Mortar Bag Works Great but Must Squeeze Mortar Deep into Joints...
The title should read "how to make bricks spall". Only a true momo would use that "Mortar Mix" on brick work. That stuff is basically high strength grout with sand. In a about a week it will be ten times stronger than type N. When the brick can't move she goes pop.
Where is your dry brush ?
That's awful. If ignorance is bliss, this guy must be in ecstasy.
This bloke should get a job in Wal-Mart
2:10 I think you meant to say VERTICAL joints :P
Was that a cake froster filled with cement?
i could tell what the end product would look like shortly after the start of this video
"Shortly" = four minutes. Yeah, me too.
Can someone tell me the name of this cloth nozzle where the cement is coming out ??
Hey all of you guys who left negative feedback, why don't you make your own video and show us the better way to fix.
ua-cam.com/video/m0iisF78STo/v-deo.html different type of pointing, but my joints are full, the old stock brick is CLEAN. this video is an abysmal display of workmanship, he clearly isn't a bricklayer or had experience in this field, just some pen pusher thinking he knows what hes doing.
Why? Because the guy making this doesn't really know what he's doing? Play nice? He cleared out most of the remaining mortar and replaced with 1/2"? Maybe? Structurally solid now I guess. Then rakes it when it's really wet smearing the brick? Guess your standard for workmanship is very low. Must be from NA. And when the wall/chimney collaspes please ensure you aren't standing near it telling your friends how you told those rascals online how they should make their own video and leave this poor fellow alone. No cleaning or moisturing joints before repointing? No sealer? DIY wrong.
To busy actually laying bricks to make a video.
saving people from bad advice is a bad thing now?
C Ber well, perhaps some knowledge of best practices based from experience would be helpful. Hard mortar is not nice to brick over time. The brick will actually deteriorate from the hardness of the mortar. Just because you show up for the game, you don't necessarily deserve s trophy. The kids who practiced at home on off days and brought more to the game should always be given respect. There are plenty of games to go around, just be sure you're good if you expect a trophy....
I'm here for all the other UA-cam expert's that criticize and claim to do it better
It's a good way to get started if you're not a tradesman but looking at the final result it's not good for a paying customer
I feel like he could have been so effective by putting the nozzle deep into the joint. But it looked like he just squeezed it on the outside. I think the work would have actually benefited fro him using the old way of packing the mortar deeper into the joint. Sigh...
Whatever works is what matters pro.Everybody got a way they do things.Get a youtube channel and show them how it's done then.
@@clayjohnson5812 let me tell you what i think... lulz
I`ll use it after to put some fancy icing on a cake
very good teacher
Hussain Mohd. LOL Perfect!
Your doing it backwards,when you point ,you pull the mud into the mud,you don't point and work away from it,and in Wisconsin ,they would get laffed at,, especially on a city , county or state job,they would kick your whole company out of you used a bag
There are visible gaps in the upper left. If I was paying a contractor for this on my home and it looked like this I would ask them to redo it.
I mean for the technique I just seen the finished product didn't look bad at all. I was genuinely surprised because it looked like a total hack job to me at first
nice
This is not tuck pointing, it's plain old pointing, tucking pointing is very different, very skillful and uses 2 different colors of mortar
I just wrote you guys a textbook in the comment box about masonry but I'm not sharing my secrets ;)
The brick must be wet or damp before placing mortar
First thing this isn't even tuck pointing and secondly this isn't a very neat job
Agreed. Isn't this repointing? Tuck pointing uses mortar that is the same color as the brick on the top and bottom to thin out the appearance of the motor joint?
How long takes to do 5 square feet
Seen it all now.......looks like kids have been playing
how much does it cost ????
Great job. Thank you.
look on the website from gemack point eu for special tools using lime and thinbed mortars, its make thesejobs easier!
why use a bag if you still have to strike the joint
Youll find out when i put your sassy ass to work
Shocking video total amateur
and yet, this is exactly the kind of sloppy work the company i hired to repoint my house did. and there were so many areas they missed (avoided) that i am simply going to do the rest myself. i KNOW i can do a better job
the top left brick dropped :/
I think I would not use rapid set if you are a rank amateur at this because it takes a lot of practice to get good and the amateur will be very slow and end up with a bucket of rock. Even then you want to make up small amounts often. It will save in the long run.
Not to mention you should never use Rapid set, not even straight Portland..you should use Type N, Portland Lime Type N or Hydrated Lime mix
Wow what did I just watch, who post a video and no nothing about what there posting, 17 year Mason here buddy 3rd generation to do it in my family.. you my friend need to be at the mixer..
I don't think he can even get that right
This beats the garbage they sell in tubes at the hardware stores. A lot of complaints here but at least it looks more like mortar than the goo in tubes. May not have been a professional job but that costs a fortune if you can even get someone to quote this kind of work. I'll give it a try.
I was quoted $30k to do one 2 story wall...they said they would finish it in 3 or 4 days. Ha! Who gets $30k for less than a weeks worth of work. So, I dont have that kind of money to spend on my bricks so Im doing the work myself and if it takes 2 years it takes 2 years. I paid $150 for custom mortar mixology. So I know the exact type of mortar for my bricks. And I can order as little or as much mortar as I want. I might pay $400 for a pointing class to practice. And I'm looking for a ladder as well as watching ladder safety videos.
I would not let this guy near my house after seeing this video
You get what you give folks...
can't hear you, please remove the background music
I can’t get it to come out of the grout bag.....!
How unprofessionally he uses that grout bag makes me want quit my profession like why do I take pride in my work when there are people like this
That was so bad, lol. So incredibly messy.