I’m a union tuck pointer and my 6 yr old nephew could of done the same thing lol smh ,that’s why u hire a professional it’s not as easy as people think lol obviously
I had a pro tell me one time it's important to make sure your new mortar isn't to hard, otherwise you could actually crack older brickwork. He said he's seen houses ruined because of it.
Add this to the comments below. This is called "Repointing" "Tuck Pointing" is a specific decorative type of pointing. You should match the strength of the mortar to be less than strength of the bricks - never "High Strength" which does not allow bricks to expand or expel water.
Ben, I am doing a repair on a brick garage and can use some advice. What could be better done here? I liked the technique with using the bag for the vertical lines, but how overall should it be smoothed down?
Wait for the mortar to dry, between 30 and 45 min before cleaning the joints. It will leave the brick cleaner and without any cement residue on it. Working as clean as possible is key.
thanks for this video. i have bricks around my house that looks similar to this demo. now I know what mortar to use and how to repair my walls. you make it look easy. thanks again.
So my house has the mortor coming over excessively it seemed this was the “style” I guess? My q is is there a way to hire someone to scrape it so all the excess is off making its appearance better? Or use a sander as you are..
When the bricks have lost their bond like the top course there, you have to reset the brick because it will fail. Using fast set mortar is a poor choice for repointing. Its a hydraulic cement that hardens like a rock. You never want the mortar to be harder than the brick. When the bricks try to expand, they will crack. When repointing you want to fill the joints completely, compress the joints, then strike. You skipped compressing the joints and left voids in the joints.
Compressing, he means forcing the joints or mortar all the way in to ensure no dead spots or voids are left that you can't see. This creates a weak joint. Striking is what he's doing at the end with the finger trowel to clean the joint. He skipped an important step and used the wrong mix.
That was just basic rubbed in pointing, tuck pointing gives the impression of a fine mortar joint and is achieved by pointing with lime mortar the same colour as the brick and then adding the second lime joint in a contrasting colour.
Unless you're a pro at laying bricks (or you're Speedy Gonzales!) the only thing I probably would not use is that rapid set mortar mix. It has only about a 10 minute or less working time and and you have to go like hell to get it where you want it before it starts to set up. I'd use regular mortar mix instead.
The Rapid Set is really good for bag work, because of all the admixtures. It's really "creamy" and it sticks well. Although, you do need to work quickly. It's best for smaller jobs but I love using it.
I have no knowledge on masonry, but after sanding all out, shouldn't you pack it in and make sure its solid as appose to filling the front gaps (lightly for aesthetics?)
yes I agree it didn't look like he pumped enough in. You can run your pointing tool along behind the bag to help create more back pressure. This may take a helper.
Could ANYONE tell me if I’m supposed to seal up with Foam or mortar the large gap that runs up the side our Brick wall front? My wife doesn’t want hornets 🐝 or bees to next back there. But I don’t want to seal up the whole side if moisture needs to escape. Please help!
U need to use a pointing tool to pack the joint, you will never get away with using a bag on a city,state,or federal job,should not use quick set,didn't clean the joint,didn't moisten the joint,it will crack by next summer and owner will be paying again to have someone do it the right way
I know nothing about mortar and I tried it and half of the mortar was on the floor ........ 😂 time to hire a professional..... I think I didn’t clean it enough
I use the plastic bags where you can cut the bag to size and squeeze it in between the bricks.This tip is one size only and is getting mortar all over the bricks and leaves a film even when cleaned.
I have an old brick house that is almost 200 years old, so the bricks are more of the soft clay variety. Is it ok to use newer mortar on these types of old bricks? It won't crack them or anything? Another concern I have is since the building is so old, there are many areas where you can tell there is massive amounts of mortar missing, gapping holes that appear to go behind the brick, so it appears that there is most likely mortar missing behind the wall. Should I just get a pipping bag and squeeze and squeeze mortar back behind the bricks until I can't anymore? Seems to be a nightmare project. Ha Ha
Jesus Christ! OSHA would kill me for not using a vac setup on that grinder! You’re definitely a brick layer using your brick trail and a bag. Local 1 Historical restoration specialist.
How do you get the mortar to flow out your grout bag like fluffy butter ? I am not a Mason by profession but I have repointed and relaid several chimneys . I also repointed my 100 plus year old brick house over course of several years. Was not fun ,40 feet in the air on scaffold .I got proficient enough that I made some money doing brick repairs . But , I just can't get the hang of a grout bag. I always was using regular mortar mix in a bag or mixing masonry cement with sand my self! When you use a bag are you using a lighter ,less sand mortar ? I ve tried making it wetter and it just ooozes water out , still doesn't flow out nice . I gave up and just stick to picking it up on trowel and twisting my wrist to load the vertical joints! What's the secret !
Just add a little more mortar to make it creamier. Or use Portland Lime. It seems to work good for me. And stay away from the thick grout bags. By the plastic throw aways on Amazon. They handle much better. Be sure to use both hands. It is tricky. I've been training three different guys for 3 years and I'm still the only one that can do it without making a mess
@@davidr4500 I will order some plastic bags on Amazon.. but which bags? many reviews say the seams split but I guess that depends on the viscosity of your mud mixture.
i Might be doing some tuck pointing on my house. It was built in 1909, and he said he was using a what it sounded like was a type S motar from what I've been learning I think I should use type O. If anyone know the answer would appreciate
Thanks for the great instruction for us Newbies. Where did you get the tuck trowel? The layers of personal protection equipment seem excessive to me, but this comes from a bloke that will energize a 1000 amp breaker in a t-shirt and shorts. Keep the wisdom coming!
excessive until a dull grinder wheel grabs and kicks back, ive personally watched it happen and split my buddys forehead open hah also, mortar dust is extremely toxic and awful, run a grinder or a few hours and see how your lungs feel after haha
that rapid set is premixed and he had to add water for the bag... that first batch he tucked off the trowel was to thick for a bag. But others have said you want a softer mortar. After getting a few stuck mortar bags you get the feel for how juicy it needs to be.
Just no freezing times for first 3-5 days... of if 30 but warm days you can cover with insulated cover. A propane heater and tent can work but to much time if your trying to make money.
The title should read "how to make bricks spall". Only a true momo would use that "Mortar Mix" on brick work. That stuff is basically high strength grout with sand. In a about a week it will be ten times stronger than type N. When the brick can't move she goes pop.
Nobody in the US knows the proper terminology, I had to dig through over a dozen videos before I found actual tuck pointing: ua-cam.com/video/A4uNGxkTlJY/v-deo.html
@@AB-wf8ek Thanks for sharing that M D, I thought tuck meant 'tucked in' as most of the brick work I see is so it seemed natural that it would be called that, also the video share shows a good technique for 'basic' pointing, very clean!
and yet, this is exactly the kind of sloppy work the company i hired to repoint my house did. and there were so many areas they missed (avoided) that i am simply going to do the rest myself. i KNOW i can do a better job
I feel like he could have been so effective by putting the nozzle deep into the joint. But it looked like he just squeezed it on the outside. I think the work would have actually benefited fro him using the old way of packing the mortar deeper into the joint. Sigh...
Best to work neat. keep fingers clean and a brush or dryish sponge to knock off grout on the brick face. and then after an hour you can wash the bricks off trying not to touch or wash out the lines. Some use muratic acid to wash the bricks off but most money making job pro stone masons or layers dont need to wash much at all. IT is a thing of beauty to watch their austere movement's and speed.
I mean for the technique I just seen the finished product didn't look bad at all. I was genuinely surprised because it looked like a total hack job to me at first
I think I would not use rapid set if you are a rank amateur at this because it takes a lot of practice to get good and the amateur will be very slow and end up with a bucket of rock. Even then you want to make up small amounts often. It will save in the long run.
Thanks for your efforts. For simplicity, process is a reasonably adequate one for most tidy ups. And by the way, some responses were cheap personal shots. Not constructive! RGM
This video should be taken as a lesson on what you should not do. 1) Any true professional will use dust extraction when cutting out mortar joints. Typically for every m2 of brickwork you will get 5kg or 11lb of dust. The average job size I do is around 30m2 producing 150kg or 330lbs of of fine dust. If you are letting this into the environment it will end up everywhere especially if you are working at height and there is even a slight breeze your neighbours cars, houses, washing etc will be covered. 2) Those bricks were far too dry to be applying mortar to. They needed to be damped down first. 3) You smeared mortar all up the brick faces. 4) You didn't fully fill the joints. There are voids behind the mortar you applied. 5) You finished the joints very poorly and you didn't wait long enough for the mortar to go off so there is no compression that adds strength. This is the type of work that I have to go and rectify for people after they've had it done by someone that doesn't really know what they're doing. I also have to charge for cleaning up the original job which can be very time consuming so the poor home owner has to pay for the original bad work then pay for a clean up and then pay for me to do it correctly all over again. Instead they should have found a true professional the first time. Pointing is not as easy as people think.
Pointing is easy if you know what your doing. The guy on the video is a vagina for using all the protection he used. All I do is hold my breath and cut the mortar away. No dust extraction needed, it is construction work if your worried about dust don't get work done.
Agreed. Isn't this repointing? Tuck pointing uses mortar that is the same color as the brick on the top and bottom to thin out the appearance of the motor joint?
I came here to see how to do this myself because someone else did a job like him!
😂😂😂
Sad truth
Wow thought the same! 😭🤣
😆😆😆
I’m a union tuck pointer and my 6 yr old nephew could of done the same thing lol smh ,that’s why u hire a professional it’s not as easy as people think lol obviously
I had a pro tell me one time it's important to make sure your new mortar isn't to hard, otherwise you could actually crack older brickwork. He said he's seen houses ruined because of it.
Walls move over time. You want the movement to happen in the mortar, not the bricks.
Absolutely, use lime for old clay bricks and type N for newer cement bricks. Stay away from straight portland.
@@davidr4500how can you tell if it’s an old brick or not?
@@laidbackguy1861 if original brick then the date the house was built is rather telling
Add this to the comments below.
This is called "Repointing"
"Tuck Pointing" is a specific decorative type of pointing.
You should match the strength of the mortar to be less than strength of the bricks - never "High Strength" which does not allow bricks to expand or expel water.
this thing works like a champ, i was able to do my repair in no time.
Never trust a man who confuses horizontal and vertical. Lol
its good to point out you are never to old to retrain , he needs to .
I am a bricklayer, and that was the roughest work i have ever seen!
I agree bud he probably doesn't have the trowel and tool technique
A brush would have helped
Ben, I am doing a repair on a brick garage and can use some advice. What could be better done here? I liked the technique with using the bag for the vertical lines, but how overall should it be smoothed down?
@@michaelsignorelli1874 blindfold would help
I'm here because some mason in Seattle wants to charge $165hr for brick repairs. Crazy! His work looks fine to me.
Could one of you brick mason types direct me to a proper training vid
Thank you! Great video! That's exactly what i will do to fix cracks in block wall.
Wait for the mortar to dry, between 30 and 45 min before cleaning the joints. It will leave the brick cleaner and without any cement residue on it. Working as clean as possible is key.
thanks for this video. i have bricks around my house that looks similar to this demo. now I know what mortar to use and how to repair my walls. you make it look easy. thanks again.
You don't know from this video
Im a chimney mason and that right there looked like me doing it on the 1st day lol
Doesn't the dry bricks cause the moisture in the mortar to be pulled out???? I thought you were suppose to brush your joints afterwards.
I no longer know what horizontal means... Brush works pretty good
That’s funny! I thought the same thing
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us....
Thank you for the demo/
So my house has the mortor coming over excessively it seemed this was the “style” I guess? My q is is there a way to hire someone to scrape it so all the excess is off making its appearance better? Or use a sander as you are..
I came here to find out how to repair mortar joints, but the comments got me thinking about how many experts their are in this field. OK next videos
When the bricks have lost their bond like the top course there, you have to reset the brick because it will fail. Using fast set mortar is a poor choice for repointing. Its a hydraulic cement that hardens like a rock. You never want the mortar to be harder than the brick. When the bricks try to expand, they will crack. When repointing you want to fill the joints completely, compress the joints, then strike. You skipped compressing the joints and left voids in the joints.
Can you recommend a video about how to do that, please?
What do you mean by compress the joints, then strike?
Yo Jack Jack, you got questions
Jack Jack?????? where"s your video?
Compressing, he means forcing the joints or mortar all the way in to ensure no dead spots or voids are left that you can't see. This creates a weak joint. Striking is what he's doing at the end with the finger trowel to clean the joint. He skipped an important step and used the wrong mix.
Great demonstration on what not to do, thanks!
You need to wet the existing mortar first, key step.
I usually wet the area that I cleaned out in the joints too before applying mortar.
@@MrDcseltzer Yes, it needs to be so wet it won't suck the moisture out of the new mortar so it can setup properly.
Bonding Agent ?
@@mikebaranREBEL wetting is the 'bonding agent' for pointing and even surface work, leave the other stuff in the store!!
@@MrDcseltzer very good idea to have a water sprayer to prewet the bricks so they dont suck all the moisture out and prevent curing.
I Apreciate this video
Fair play,at least you having a go at it,good luck dude x
That was just basic rubbed in pointing, tuck pointing gives the impression of a fine mortar joint and is achieved by pointing with lime mortar the same colour as the brick and then adding the second lime joint in a contrasting colour.
I have no idea what you just said.
Unless you're a pro at laying bricks (or you're Speedy Gonzales!) the only thing I probably would not use is that rapid set mortar mix. It has only about a 10 minute or less working time and and you have to go like hell to get it where you want it before it starts to set up. I'd use regular mortar mix instead.
Speedy coudn't get over the wall
speedy couldn't get over the border wall
good advice
The Rapid Set is really good for bag work, because of all the admixtures. It's really "creamy" and it sticks well. Although, you do need to work quickly. It's best for smaller jobs but I love using it.
William Miller doesn't even know how to edit his comments.
What's a good Brand of mortar bag you like for this type of brick repair? Reviews I've read are quite negative.
I have no knowledge on masonry, but after sanding all out, shouldn't you pack it in and make sure its solid as appose to filling the front gaps (lightly for aesthetics?)
Yeah. Everything ive seen says to fill the whole gap. Not just the front face.
yes I agree it didn't look like he pumped enough in. You can run your pointing tool along behind the bag to help create more back pressure. This may take a helper.
Could ANYONE tell me if I’m supposed to seal up with Foam or mortar the large gap that runs up the side our Brick wall front? My wife doesn’t want hornets 🐝 or bees to next back there. But I don’t want to seal up the whole side if moisture needs to escape. Please help!
U need to use a pointing tool to pack the joint, you will never get away with using a bag on a city,state,or federal job,should not use quick set,didn't clean the joint,didn't moisten the joint,it will crack by next summer and owner will be paying again to have someone do it the right way
Ok, there's all that, and then there's his snazzy logo.
During the day he decorates cakes at Kroger's
😂
if you don't have anything nice to say keep it to yourself
I read some of your funny comments, but what is the bag (squeezing the mortar in) called and where can you buy it?
I think it's called a grout bag. You can get them at most big hardware or home improvement stores.
Awesome! You make it look so easy! I totally enjoyed the video! Thank you!
He made it look easy because he was doing it so badly !
I know nothing about mortar and I tried it and half of the mortar was on the floor ........ 😂 time to hire a professional..... I think I didn’t clean it enough
Crap, is this guy for real 😊
I use the plastic bags where you can cut the bag to size and squeeze it in between the bricks.This tip is one size only and is getting mortar all over the bricks and leaves a film even when cleaned.
I have an old brick house that is almost 200 years old, so the bricks are more of the soft clay variety. Is it ok to use newer mortar on these types of old bricks? It won't crack them or anything?
Another concern I have is since the building is so old, there are many areas where you can tell there is massive amounts of mortar missing, gapping holes that appear to go behind the brick, so it appears that there is most likely mortar missing behind the wall. Should I just get a pipping bag and squeeze and squeeze mortar back behind the bricks until I can't anymore?
Seems to be a nightmare project. Ha Ha
You dont need to wet the surface before laying the new stuff in?
How long takes to do 5 square feet
Verticals first, then horizontal. Do the horizontal from the edge inward. That way you don't lose the mortar from the corners.
Hard disagree I'm a beds then heads man myself, on the second strike that is. Really doesn't matter more of a preference thing
@logan5520 more of a clean lines and appearance thing
Jesus Christ! OSHA would kill me for not using a vac setup on that grinder! You’re definitely a brick layer using your brick trail and a bag. Local 1 Historical restoration specialist.
You need 33 AD restoration. More necessary for you than the vac set-up, because you are ignoring what is more lethal.
How do you get the mortar to flow out your grout bag like fluffy butter ? I am not a Mason by profession but I have repointed and relaid several chimneys . I also repointed my 100 plus year old brick house over course of several years. Was not fun ,40 feet in the air on scaffold .I got proficient enough that I made some money doing brick repairs . But , I just can't get the hang of a grout bag. I always was using regular mortar mix in a bag or mixing masonry cement with sand my self! When you use a bag are you using a lighter ,less sand mortar ? I ve tried making it wetter and it just ooozes water out , still doesn't flow out nice . I gave up and just stick to picking it up on trowel and twisting my wrist to load the vertical joints! What's the secret !
To get a creamier mortar, a touch of thinset in the mix, I don't use the squeeze bag either, pointing is never fun...
Just add a little more mortar to make it creamier. Or use Portland Lime. It seems to work good for me. And stay away from the thick grout bags. By the plastic throw aways on Amazon. They handle much better. Be sure to use both hands. It is tricky. I've been training three different guys for 3 years and I'm still the only one that can do it without making a mess
@@davidr4500 I will order some plastic bags on Amazon.. but which bags? many reviews say the seams split but I guess that depends on the viscosity of your mud mixture.
@elkski Utah kraft tool makes good bags
i Might be doing some tuck pointing on my house. It was built in 1909, and he said he was using a what it sounded like was a type S motar from what I've been learning I think I should use type O. If anyone know the answer would appreciate
Depends Where You Live...Here in midwest Where We Freeze And Thaw, We Use S Mortar...
Great job. Thank you.
Thanks for the great instruction for us Newbies. Where did you get the tuck trowel? The layers of personal protection equipment seem excessive to me, but this comes from a bloke that will energize a 1000 amp breaker in a t-shirt and shorts. Keep the wisdom coming!
You've never seen a 1000 amp breaker.
thats a Chinese made diamond saw blade at 4000RPM
Better safe and sorry.
excessive until a dull grinder wheel grabs and kicks back, ive personally watched it happen and split my buddys forehead open hah also, mortar dust is extremely toxic and awful, run a grinder or a few hours and see how your lungs feel after haha
I have to look up horizontal and vertical. This guy is blowing my mind from what I’ve learned. Up is not up anymore
Its cause his head was tilted sideways
Are you really Alan Kramer?
did you get paided?after..then great job
Hello
Where can I get the bag is there ready cement
Stevie Wonders pointing school
As soon as you started up that grinder, I could smell the dust
this is comedy gold
With that result, why is he worried about getting it on the surface of the brick???
Hello! What’s the ratio of mix to water? I’d like to use a mortar bag for an upcoming project! Great video, thank you!
that rapid set is premixed and he had to add water for the bag... that first batch he tucked off the trowel was to thick for a bag. But others have said you want a softer mortar. After getting a few stuck mortar bags you get the feel for how juicy it needs to be.
@@elkskiutah8204 Thanks!
Is there a time of year when this is best to be done? Can it be done in October or November?
Just no freezing times for first 3-5 days... of if 30 but warm days you can cover with insulated cover. A propane heater and tent can work but to much time if your trying to make money.
The title should read "how to make bricks spall". Only a true momo would use that "Mortar Mix" on brick work. That stuff is basically high strength grout with sand. In a about a week it will be ten times stronger than type N. When the brick can't move she goes pop.
Re-pointing is not tuck pointing. I don't know why this is so difficult for people to understand.
Nobody in the US knows the proper terminology, I had to dig through over a dozen videos before I found actual tuck pointing: ua-cam.com/video/A4uNGxkTlJY/v-deo.html
@@AB-wf8ek Plenty of people here know this. It's a source of irritation to many.
@@AB-wf8ek Thanks for sharing that M D, I thought tuck meant 'tucked in' as most of the brick work I see is so it seemed natural that it would be called that, also the video share shows a good technique for 'basic' pointing, very clean!
how much does it cost ????
I`ll use it after to put some fancy icing on a cake
This guy has NO IDEA !!!
shotty work eddie
the top left brick dropped :/
No Bonding Agent ?...After A Year Or So, Wont The New Mortar Separate Away From The Old ???
Mortar Bag Works Great but Must Squeeze Mortar Deep into Joints...
look on the website from gemack point eu for special tools using lime and thinbed mortars, its make thesejobs easier!
Shocking video total amateur
and yet, this is exactly the kind of sloppy work the company i hired to repoint my house did. and there were so many areas they missed (avoided) that i am simply going to do the rest myself. i KNOW i can do a better job
I like this video. I am going to give this method a try.
Was that a cake froster filled with cement?
What's that tool called you're forcing into the brick
That's his....oh never mind.
There are visible gaps in the upper left. If I was paying a contractor for this on my home and it looked like this I would ask them to redo it.
He is too messy!
A+++
XO MADE IT EASY FOR ME DONT WANNA BUST ANYIONE ELSE BACK FOR MY REPAIRS OR DADS
nice
Look, the Fuller Brush guy only with bricks, jeez!
I feel like he could have been so effective by putting the nozzle deep into the joint. But it looked like he just squeezed it on the outside. I think the work would have actually benefited fro him using the old way of packing the mortar deeper into the joint. Sigh...
Whatever works is what matters pro.Everybody got a way they do things.Get a youtube channel and show them how it's done then.
@@clayjohnson5812 let me tell you what i think... lulz
Where is your dry brush ?
Was this your first time doing this?
It's a good way to get started if you're not a tradesman but looking at the final result it's not good for a paying customer
what a mess he is doing
This is not tuck pointing, it's plain old pointing, tucking pointing is very different, very skillful and uses 2 different colors of mortar
What about the cleaning phase?
Best to work neat. keep fingers clean and a brush or dryish sponge to knock off grout on the brick face. and then after an hour you can wash the bricks off trying not to touch or wash out the lines. Some use muratic acid to wash the bricks off but most money making job pro stone masons or layers dont need to wash much at all. IT is a thing of beauty to watch their austere movement's and speed.
Just let a pointer do that. You go lay brick over there. Hahaha good job my man.
This guy is crazy 😜
I mean for the technique I just seen the finished product didn't look bad at all. I was genuinely surprised because it looked like a total hack job to me at first
I just wrote you guys a textbook in the comment box about masonry but I'm not sharing my secrets ;)
very good teacher
Hussain Mohd. LOL Perfect!
I'm here for all the other UA-cam expert's that criticize and claim to do it better
Seen it all now.......looks like kids have been playing
it didn't seem to work that well to me.
Oh boy, oh boy oh boy oh boy.
You get what you give folks...
I think I would not use rapid set if you are a rank amateur at this because it takes a lot of practice to get good and the amateur will be very slow and end up with a bucket of rock. Even then you want to make up small amounts often. It will save in the long run.
Not to mention you should never use Rapid set, not even straight Portland..you should use Type N, Portland Lime Type N or Hydrated Lime mix
Thanks for your efforts. For simplicity, process is a reasonably adequate one for most tidy ups. And by the way, some responses were cheap personal shots. Not constructive! RGM
Can someone tell me the name of this cloth nozzle where the cement is coming out ??
"...until your thumbprint can touch it" (Uses index finger)
That's awful. If ignorance is bliss, this guy must be in ecstasy.
This bloke should get a job in Wal-Mart
This video should be taken as a lesson on what you should not do.
1) Any true professional will use dust extraction when cutting out mortar joints. Typically for every m2 of brickwork you will get 5kg or 11lb of dust. The average job size I do is around 30m2 producing 150kg or 330lbs of of fine dust. If you are letting this into the environment it will end up everywhere especially if you are working at height and there is even a slight breeze your neighbours cars, houses, washing etc will be covered.
2) Those bricks were far too dry to be applying mortar to. They needed to be damped down first.
3) You smeared mortar all up the brick faces.
4) You didn't fully fill the joints. There are voids behind the mortar you applied.
5) You finished the joints very poorly and you didn't wait long enough for the mortar to go off so there is no compression that adds strength.
This is the type of work that I have to go and rectify for people after they've had it done by someone that doesn't really know what they're doing. I also have to charge for cleaning up the original job which can be very time consuming so the poor home owner has to pay for the original bad work then pay for a clean up and then pay for me to do it correctly all over again. Instead they should have found a true professional the first time. Pointing is not as easy as people think.
Well written Sam Yandall-Pay us now or pay us much more later
Sam, how about making a video?
Pointing is easy if you know what your doing. The guy on the video is a vagina for using all the protection he used. All I do is hold my breath and cut the mortar away. No dust extraction needed, it is construction work if your worried about dust don't get work done.
Salty
Ray, dust?? Humm, isn't it a wee bit worse than "dust"?
i could tell what the end product would look like shortly after the start of this video
"Shortly" = four minutes. Yeah, me too.
I can’t get the mortar out of grout bag.... I bought the best Marshalltown bag and the .99 cent disposable type n or s... nothing but a mess
Add dawn dish soap to the mortar it helps alot
I believe that is the smallest brick wall I've ever seen.
First thing this isn't even tuck pointing and secondly this isn't a very neat job
Agreed. Isn't this repointing? Tuck pointing uses mortar that is the same color as the brick on the top and bottom to thin out the appearance of the motor joint?
I can’t get it to come out of the grout bag.....!