After taking three days to complete those donuts, I managed to create the anvil in just a couple of hours. (Without the added finagling of textures/lighting, mind you). Just wanted to say awesome tutorial; thanks so much for doing these!
Holy crap, only 25% of all the people who watched the first video got to the fourth part. Will keep on going 'til the end and it'll be interesting to see how many actually got there.
Well actually the thing is people need to discover new ways to solve problems. Doing this is not possible without a sort of custom logic. I figured out a lot of stuff by myself.
I've watched this all and I liked it. It took me the whole day but I made it. Blender Guru is an awesome teacher. Thank you for your effort to teach us beginner how to do it properly. You may have noticed that the Loop cut tool is used throughout in the videos to adjust the edges of the model, however it always comes with the side effect of "slicing" the model. Not only it adds unecessary vertices, but a need for further vertex aligmnent and cleanup. I've learned a easier way while doing a research for "limiting the loop cut tool". All you have to do is: 1. select the portion of the geometry you're interested in 2. invert selection (ctrl + i) and hide it (h) 3. select the remaining geometry and proceed to use the loop cut (ctrl+r) to adjust the edges of the model as normally you do. 4. unhide(alt + h) now you see the loop cut tool limited itself in the area it was intended to
I kept having small error so would start again from the last copy in my Archive copied folder. Really helped since I did everything like 3 times. It was so soon after the first that I remembered what to do for the most part and it was satisfying.
For anyone from the future (Blender v2.8-2.9), MatCap setting is in the little arrow dropdown next to the Veiwport Mode buttons in the top right of the 3D viewport window (just to the right of where the 4 globe icons are). Click the arrow, then select Matcap near the top under "Lighting."
As complicated as manipulating vertices, edges, and faces are; I cannot believe I was able to finish this tutorial. Andrew, you have done a fantastic job putting these tutorials together. It has really jump-started my abilities in Blender.
I’m just starting to watch your videos but wanted to drop in and say that “you’ve only got a finite amount of time to do anything” at 22 minutes is possibly the best piece of advice for anyone in a creative job. It was just a side note in your video but not many people are able to work out when it’s a good time to stop trying to make something perfect. Having said that, your teaching skills are incredible and I’m looking forward to watching many more of your videos
At 20:33 if anyone is struggling with finding the metcap option just click on the arrow next to the different Viewports Shading (the circles on top right corner) you'll find it.
17:36 I feel so satisfied coming up with an own solution here, I simply used the knife tool to draw some additional lines just in that area and so I managed to have a cutting sharp edge if I want too...or else I figured out you could still use a loop cut yet hiding everything else you don't want the line to go, as done previously :D same result!
It's actually pretty smart. The first thing popped in my head was boolean, like creating the cube that cut out hole but it did not worked at all for some reason
@@gabrilapin nope, I used the knife technique too. Just think about it as adding more detail in specific areas to accomplish what you need to. It's easy to remove the lines later if you change your mind.
I also had the same idea, but if you use one of these solutions ends up generating a polygon with 5 vertices, I think a better solution would be to model the square part first and then the round beak
My favorite "Problem Solving" bit was when you addressed the loud talkers in the meeting next door... that was awesome! It's precisely what I love about your tuts - you keep it really real! (and I learnt stuff too!) *Thumbs up, as usual.
For bending and some shit like that. Like you can put a hot iron rod in there and bend it at will. The round hole is usualy used for making nails. You just bash it with hammer until it has the head every nail needs :)
The square one is also used to hold diferent kinds of tools: cutting tools, fullering tools, all kind of stakes for armouring... I mostly use it with a bent bar to hold firmly any piece i'm working on
Im having fun! but just to know a bit about blacksmithing.... the two holes should be through holes not pockets. The square hole is called a Hardy hole for holding square shanked tools or stock and the round Pritchel hole is for punch clearance or holding of round stocks. They are always through holes.
Thank you for another amazing video. I just wanted to share to those of you like me that struggled to follow his plan with the square hole (around 20min), I did this using the Boolean modifier he showed us in the second video. By cutting away with a cube and then extruding down and creating a face. After doing this I also found I could create loop cuts within this space making it easy to tidy up without effecting the rest of the anvil mesh.
So I recently made my 2nd donut, then a cake, and when I started to watch this tutorial I thought "Well, I might as well skip the modeling part as I'm pretty sure I'm good enough at using loop cuts, merging vertices and removing doubles and it seems to be a lesson on that". Especially since I watched this once already sooome time ago without practice. But now that I've finished it I can see how important lesson on topology it was and how incorrectly I was using loop cuts, merging and stuff and how much better of 3D artist I just become. In short, brilliant lesson Andrew!
I'm here from 2023 Started learning blender in October 2022 for the purpose of virtual staging in Real Estate. Discovering this channel has been one of my greatest achievements. Dear Andrew Price, I can't thank you enough for been this amazing. Thanks for helping me start a career as a 3D artist.
Guys for the holes at the back of the anvil, they’re a complete hole from top to bottom, he’ll realize this later in the series and tell you to do it yourself
I might just quit while I'm ahead and make a Game called 'Donuts and Anvils vs Procedural Eyeballs'. Could be a hit. This is an amazing Tutorial for someone pretty new like me. Really easy to follow. A pleasure to watch.
Thanks heaps for the excellent series of anvil-modelling tutorials, Andrew. I especially like the way this series took the time to go into quite a bit of depth. It not only showcased a wide variety of modelling tools, and how to use them in context, but also demonstrated the overall modelling arc, from concept to finishing touches. This level of completeness is rare. Keep up the great work, and thanks for sharing.
Blender Guru seems like a nice guy, but he loves a chat and takes a while to get to the point. This has put me off checking out these tutorials before as I am impatient. HOWEVER, this set is gold dust! I haven't seen any other tutorials clearly explain how to work with Sub Div modifier and cleaning up Topology. Tricky subject to get your head around but these tutorials nail it. Good work!
Andrew, both of those holes are supposed to go all the way through. And that "hardy hole" (the rectangular hole) is supposed to be square. You were right though, the round hole is round.
how would you go about creating the hole all the way through? is it as simple as doing the boolean operation we did in the beginning or would i need to adjust faces and all that?
I am a Blender novice, never really gotten beyond making custom logos. My comment was with regard to the accuracy of the model as I am also a novice blacksmith. Sorry if my out-of-place comment a couple years ago caused any problems for you
@@Cyanidedan I did a mix, extrude the whole way through, then delete the bottom faces before connecting everything back up again with the topology I wanted, using snap to vertex to align everything :)
I completed the donut tutorial and now this and I just have to say that I really appreciate you putting these awesome beginner level guides out there. I'm now making usable models in minutes instead of tripping over horrible unusable creations for hours. Thank you very much sir, I made sure to like all your videos and subscribe.
4:49 - for Blender 2.8 users: use Shift+Tab to turn on snapping and click the ruler button at the top center of the 3D Viewport. Click on Edge. Then click the merged Vertex and snap it to the bisect / loop cut (By pressing G and moving it close enough to the edge). It's better than having the lines either indent or bump out of proportion.
almost finished watching this last episode of the series and I can't help but comment that the way you handled the whole process has been enormously enlightening. You have a new subscriber!
I've lost count how many times I've restarted this video accidentally doing a Loop Cut because I didn't have the Blender window in focus and Control+R reloads a page in Chrome. :facepalm:
Thank you so much for the tutorial! I've tried to make my own anvils in the past, and none turned out so well because despite knowing how to operate all of the tools, I didn't have the mindset behind each step I could take to produce the model. This tutorial has me thinking about previous models I've made and how having a different mindset to the tools/methods I use could make it an easier/cleaner model (in terms of topography.) Thanks!
I love your passion for details! For me as a basic beginner it is good to learn this procedures from scratch. Looking towards the 'unwrapping and mapping the anvil' tutorial...
I was think the same, almost anticipating being the smart student because in just a moment, he is going to reveal the smart way of doing what I am already thinking.
Watched your entire tutorial series and the problem solving became so darn easy. For the loop cuts on the extruded cube hole at the top, I simply hid the horn and performed the loop cut and just solved many other issues on my own with your training. Thank you so much for this.
12:50 - Remember to turn off proportional editing when straightening out the base. Otherwise, your adjustments will have a rippling effect throughout the model.
Congrats and thanks. The best teacher I've ever seen. I did everything in this series at least 3 times not because it was difficult but to be able to do it by myself. Thus I was able to see that you didn't give us a ready made solution but a real life solution. Thanks again.
Hey man, awesome tutorial. I have a couple of things about the anvil to point out though. I know this is an old video but this is just in case you decide to remake this in the future for 2.8. The square hole is called a hardy hole, it's for plugging in hardy tools, and they need to be firmly held in place. To this end, and since tooling for anvil making is really expensive, the square hole is standardized to 1 inch, or around 2.5 cm. But the important thing is that it's perfectly square, otherwise it's completely useless. It's one of those things that ruin everything once you know them. I've been thinking about a solution but I can't do it without deforming even slightly the horn, whose geometry is also standardized and important for realism. The other hole is called a pritchel hole, and it's there so you have clearance to finish punching through a piece of steel. As such, position and size are not really important as long as it's not so big it would allow the steel around it to deform when punching. Also, it's more comfortable to have on the side you work from of course, which you did right. You can also put tools with round handles in there, so that should be considered when choosing size. That being said, most blacksmiths forge their own tools, so that's not really a problem. Because of this, when modeling a workshop, a lovely little detail would be to shape all the tools based on the hole sizes of the anvil. It also helps a lot with scale in my opinion. Yes I am indeed unbearable.
Great series of videos for beginners. Since you showed simple solutions for problems that have made me quit in past, I won't give up again that easy. Thank you!
I've been at it on and off for a few years and your alternate ways of doing simple things helped me speed things up a lot. I appreciate the information, thanks.
Bothered me as well, as my father owned a couple of anvils. These holes go through for fairly practical reasons, both for manufacturing (it is easier to make an anvil that way) and for actual use. The hardie hole (square hole) is used to hold a variety of tools, and needs to be deep enough for a secure hold. (The hardie hole in the model is both too wide and too shallow.) The pritchel hole (round hole) is for punching metal, and you don't want your punch to hit the anvil. Hardie holes don't always go straight, mind. You can find anvils where the path of the hole curves, and block anvils might have the hole meet up with a crosscut hole. But they are legitimate holes, not just depressions.
Can't believe I've only seen this now. I never knew how and where to start 3D modeling, but I've always admired it. Thanks to this series, I finally got to doing it. Thank you so much for this!
well, I had to repeat whole process around 10 times, but I finished it, and I like the result. If you struggle , repeat multiple times, you will get this. Great lesson.
Both of those holes you made starting from 16:40 (called hardie hole and pritchel hole in order) actually go straight through the anvil, they are used for specific tools but also commonly used for bending rods and spikes. You can see it better in this picture: upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/Fciron-anvil_face.jpg
this really bothered me cus trying to put it in my model was very different to what he does here. would love to see how he adds a hole like this considering you have to add faces along the inside of the whole.
@@daslynnter9841 Here's how I did it: 1) Go to Edit → Preferences → Addons and activate LoopTools. 2) Select a face on top and one on the bottom of the anvil. 3) Press W and select LoopTools → Bridge. It creates a sort of tunnel between the two faces. 4) If your mirror modifier is still active, it will create a face in the middle of the hole. Delete it and you're done!
You can tell he got a little anxious in the middle and was going to end the video but actually got distracted and kept it going. See everyone has those moments where they don't quite know what to do. Even blender god
Great Subject model to do in Blender. Followed all 4 tuition videos and indeed they have taught me a bunch of modelling technique's and with a bit of everyday humour thrown in. I have completed the anvil and thanks, very informative and helpful.
You could do the "Blender Critique" on modeling, you prepare the theme like shotgun and ask people send to you, when finish you make the shotgun and explain some errors that people do in their model, I know would be hard and a mess but you can try :D You can do patron and give the oportunity to people help you and you help them. I think that would be a good idea.
Dude, I have completed ur doughnut tutorial and ur anvil tutorial in 7 hours ... U are just amazing, a pleasure to watch and extremely informative and detailed. Thank u, buddy. I truly appreciate it. Oh ... And the cat licking the ice ball was f******* hilarious xD
In a real anvil the square and circular holes would actually go through. It would also be a good topic on how to solve that, since you have to rejoin everything again on the other side. It took me some fiddling around to get it how I wanted it. Anyway, great tutorial, it really helps getting started with Blender. One little thing though, in some sections you rush things a little bit too fast, I had to rewatch some sections multiple times to get what you actually did there.
This tutorial made me do sooo many small and annoying mistakes. But solving them is what made me better at blender, so thanks for not making this tutorial too easy! :D
For those who have problems getting good long loop cuts: Whilist in Edit mode, use Select -> Select All by Trait -> Faces by sides -> Greater than 4 Then You might find some 'ngons', which have too many vertices. Use the methods Andrew taught us to merge extra vertices ("delete doubles" before 2.80) and You should be better off. :)
Andrew, thank you for the great tutorials. As someone new to Blender I really appreciate you. Just a couple notes on this video, from the standpoint of accuracy. In a real anvil, the round (pritchel hole) and square (hardy hole) do go all the way through the top of the anvil. These are use to hold attachments in place which a blacksmith may use in forming various shapes.
As an aside, this tutorial got me interested in the design of anvils. I was genuinely surprised that this classic cartoon gag was more than just a heavy chunk of refined metal; the amount of consideration put into your typical anvil, the ways it expedites a smith's work, kinda blew my mind.
I am metalsmith and my only problem with the modeling here that the hole is not right, it have to be square. The hardy hole is a square hole into which specialized forming and cutting tools, and allows you to secure various tools in the anvil. It is also used in punching and bending operations. The pritchel hole is a small round hole that is present on most modern anvils. So I cut the square face with the knife tool half than I extuded the hole. After this with loop cuts I could make it nice :)
Square is a hardie hole used to hold a variety of hardie tools, or for bending metal, or for measuring (usually they're an exact square...makes forging 45 degree shoulders very easy). The round hole is a pritchel hole used when you're punching through the metal to make a hole so you don't damage the anvil surface. Both holes go all the way through the heel of the anvil.
This is such a good series :) thank you. I'd been putting it off because I thought an anvil would be quite boring - judging a book by its cover essentially... but actually it covers a good range of problems you might encounter and its very clear to follow :D I feel like Andrew is an old friend of mine :P very well done, thank you :D
Love the tutorials - the square hole in the anvil is called a hardy hole and is used to hold various tools for cutting and bending. The circular hole is called a pritchel hole and is used when punching holes. Both hardy and prichel holes on the anvils I have seen go all the way through the anvil, but unless we have to show overhead or look up shots, saving time by not making a through hole is a good compromise.
Make an episode of this tutorial which shows the differences in the model if it was made for game use, movie use, simple render or to be animated. Also maybe an example how it would look if a professional artist had to make such an object really really quickly (show the tools and workflow).
When extruding the square, you can edge loop nicely by hiding the faces surrounding the box!!! This will prevent the edge loop from looping all the way around the anvil. Thanks for the tutorial!!!
This series is pure gold. It addresses EXACTLY the modeling stuff I was struggling with. Much better then most paid courses. Finally some really useful mesh problem solving. Maybe you should change the title to make it more specific? (Mesh problem solving or something like that? I think a lot of people would be looking for this). Thanks for your work.
For the rectangular hole you can add the proximity edges using the knife tool instead of doing entire edge loops that will distort the nose of the anvil. The knife tool was introduced in part 2.
There actually IS an easy way to point the indent on the top of the anvil's corners. Select ONLY the edges that you want to have a loop cut on (Do not confuse Blender by selecting random edges over your mesh) and then press [Ctrl + Shift + R]. This will add a loop cut on only the faces that have a corresponding edge. Some problems, however, is that Blender becomes confused when this tactic is attempted on an edge that is connected to a face with more than 4 vertices. Another problem is that if an edge is connected to TWO faces at once (Which is more likely than not) then it will create a cut on both faces that the edge is touching (Same for 3+ faces). Also, just wanted to say how awesome this mini beginner tutorial series has helped. I had no idea oriental shaping was a thing, even though it has it's own button. Thanks, my dude!
Maybe someone wrote it ... If you want make a loop cut, but not on whole object, you can select all faces which you want cut, invert selection (Ctrl + I) and hide them (H). Now loop cut will affect only visible faces. After that unhide (Alt + H) ... I am using blender 2.82
I just binge watched/did the entire tutorial while listening to the OST of Hyrule Warriors. Certainly made it a more genuine celtic experience. I love these tutorials and I'll be sure to follow them all through the end!
my trouble is being able to tell/remember which loops/vertices i need and which ones i can get rid of, im amazed that u knew intuitively the loops that you had to leave intact.
Your hollow box on top drove my ocd wild.. Dare I suggest you might have opted for an inset with boundary before your extrude? That should have given you a place for isolated proximity loops without the underside distortion? A fabulous set of videos though man.. I think this video finally helped me reconcile my lack of understanding over how to approach re-topology!
Guru: Here's the part where you can stop if you're happy Me: I'll keep going! Guru: delete a bunch of vertices and make weird faces Me: I'm happy with what I've got!
Wonderful tutorial. I have enjoyed it very much. One detail: the square hole (the hardy hole) and the round hole (the pritchel hole) at the top (face) of the anvil actually go all the way through so that they accomodate long pieces to work on. Thanks again for your tutorials
I don't get his problem with them as well. Triangles are even better as they are always flat, so there are no weird geometry gradients. When doing assets for games, you almost always use triangles.
They can be problematic if modeling with subdivision in mind. Can cause oddball warping in some cases. Mainly it's an issue if the point of a tri occurs on an edge crease. For some things though, tris do make sense. Like cones, or perhaps the poles of a UV sphere. Also it's ok-ish for a tri to occur on a planar surface where there's no surface transition over the surrounding edges. If you're staying low-poly and not intending to do any smoothing at all, then this rule doesn't really apply. Yet it's still a good practice to get into, because many higher detail models have their shape developed at a lower detail stage and those tend to be subdivided a few times.
Blender and some other programs use squares.. 3d game editor programs most of the time use triangles. but yes in some cases they are appropriate or 5 or more. Also I agree with pauljs75
Derpy Maymayz that's actually not entirely true. The n-gons in 3d-editors are internally constructed from triangles. If you create a plane (or any other n-gon face in blender), then manipulating only one vertice will show you that they are aktually made from triangles. That makes sense, because an n-gon with an n greater than 3 cannot be flat, if not every one of its vertices are on one vector-plane, which would make modeling a lot more headach inducing, if they weren' made out of triangles.
I found Knifing (K + C) the vertices to make the hole easier, since it allows for new loopcuts that are restricted inside the hole. Had no problem sharpening the edges without affecting the rest
got confused a little at the clean up section but thanks to your clear instructions i managed to figure out what was wrong, your like the best tutor on youtube!
Andrew when adding the holes on top which go all the way through btw , why didn't you just extrude inwards and edge then extrude down to start the hole from the top since it already had a square defined in the mesh?
Learned much on this 4 tuts. Specially the shortcut mania is something what make's life easier - if you know it ! Texturing this anvil ? Do it !! Great job so far -thx a lot for this man !!!
Is there any particular reason that when creating the holes on the top of the anvil, you used loop cuts rather than the knife tool? I used the knife tool and didn't run into any problems (that I've noticed yet). Just wondering if I'm going to run into something when rendering perhaps?
I learn so much from your tutorials. I find that if I go through the several part lessons like this and the donut, you do such a good job of leading a person through the whole process that I feel I've taken a course on the subject. Thanks for these!
Why when you do the extudes the mirror modifier works perfectly for you? even if i have clipping and merge activated, it ALWAYS create an extra face in the mirror join. How you do it to avoid that?????? i always need to delete that extra face afterwards. Or is it that 2.79 have too many bugs already?
I was having this problem, so if anyone ctrl+F's for mirror sees this and is having it too, for me, I had one of my duplicated 'trash' anvils still showing, not hidden. Sorry for the long run-on sentence lol.
Thanks to everyone that pointed out that the hardie and pritchel holes go all the way through. I looked for a while to confirm this and found that's hard to see in most reference photos and there are a lot of models that get it wrong too. But sure enough, they go all the way through (thus "holes") and I learned a bit about blacksmithing along the way.
Being a teacher isn't easy, so I just want to let you know that I appreciate all of the hard work that you have put in. Thank you so much!
for blender 2.83 users: the hotkey for merging vertices is "m" not "alt + m".
nope its alt m
@@fyf1248 nope.
I still dont understand why they changed all the shortcuts
M then b
To delete doubles but it merges them
please don't ever take this down Andrew, all these years on its still a great tutorial
After taking three days to complete those donuts, I managed to create the anvil in just a couple of hours. (Without the added finagling of textures/lighting, mind you). Just wanted to say awesome tutorial; thanks so much for doing these!
Very nice! It's taken me a week to follow the tutorial series, I dont have much free time. lol
thanks. I know, the struggle for time is all too real. Good luck to you
i did the donuts in a day
@@theoldschoolwolf6345 then you had all day free, most of us don't
I did exactly the same thing lol
Holy crap, only 25% of all the people who watched the first video got to the fourth part. Will keep on going 'til the end and it'll be interesting to see how many actually got there.
Yeah, this is sad. The donuts series is like that as well
how can you know that?
number of views
Well actually the thing is people need to discover new ways to solve problems. Doing this is not possible without a sort of custom logic. I figured out a lot of stuff by myself.
Are you THE Lucas D'Abate? Son of Gary?
I've watched this all and I liked it. It took me the whole day but I made it. Blender Guru is an awesome teacher. Thank you for your effort to teach us beginner how to do it properly.
You may have noticed that the Loop cut tool is used throughout in the videos to adjust the edges of the model, however it always comes with the side effect of "slicing" the model. Not only it adds unecessary vertices, but a need for further vertex aligmnent and cleanup.
I've learned a easier way while doing a research for "limiting the loop cut tool". All you have to do is:
1. select the portion of the geometry you're interested in
2. invert selection (ctrl + i) and hide it (h)
3. select the remaining geometry and proceed to use the loop cut (ctrl+r) to adjust the edges of the model as normally you do.
4. unhide(alt + h)
now you see the loop cut tool limited itself in the area it was intended to
Blender Guru: If you've made it this far, you've learned how to make a very complex shape.
Me: How did I do this again?
So. Real.
I kept having small error so would start again from the last copy in my Archive copied folder. Really helped since I did everything like 3 times. It was so soon after the first that I remembered what to do for the most part and it was satisfying.
Same
relatable lmao
watch it again in 2x and take little notes this time
For anyone from the future (Blender v2.8-2.9), MatCap setting is in the little arrow dropdown next to the Veiwport Mode buttons in the top right of the 3D viewport window (just to the right of where the 4 globe icons are). Click the arrow, then select Matcap near the top under "Lighting."
How has this not been commented yet? Thx.
THANK YOU!
more specifically, be in 'solid' mode when you use the drop down arrow.
Dude, you are Bob Ross of blender
Andrew Price, you must make a tutorial on modeling happy trees asap!
ew, please don't do Bob a disservice
Exactly
Give this anvil a 'lil friend, and then.. beat the devil out of it :D
Happy little vertics
As complicated as manipulating vertices, edges, and faces are; I cannot believe I was able to finish this tutorial. Andrew, you have done a fantastic job putting these tutorials together. It has really jump-started my abilities in Blender.
I’m just starting to watch your videos but wanted to drop in and say that “you’ve only got a finite amount of time to do anything” at 22 minutes is possibly the best piece of advice for anyone in a creative job. It was just a side note in your video but not many people are able to work out when it’s a good time to stop trying to make something perfect. Having said that, your teaching skills are incredible and I’m looking forward to watching many more of your videos
It's 2023. 5 years after you recorded this, I'm doing the anvil. You look soooo young :) You turned into a very good teacher :)
At 20:33 if anyone is struggling with finding the metcap option just click on the arrow next to the different Viewports Shading (the circles on top right corner) you'll find it.
0:00 well, this is going to be easy
9:05 oh, it's a little bit harder but no much
10:30 w h a t
11:00 no no no! stop destroying my work
@@winandfx 11:05 Excuse me Andrew wtf
I guess that you can read others mind!
How is all this complicated?
Ichigo: It's a Hollow!
17:36 I feel so satisfied coming up with an own solution here, I simply used the knife tool to draw some additional lines just in that area and so I managed to have a cutting sharp edge if I want too...or else I figured out you could still use a loop cut yet hiding everything else you don't want the line to go, as done previously :D same result!
It's actually pretty smart. The first thing popped in my head was boolean, like creating the cube that cut out hole but it did not worked at all for some reason
Yeah I had the same idea and was wondering why he didn't just use knife. Maybe there is something complex or wrong whit this method?
yep im wondering if there is something wrong with this technic ?
@@gabrilapin nope, I used the knife technique too. Just think about it as adding more detail in specific areas to accomplish what you need to. It's easy to remove the lines later if you change your mind.
I also had the same idea, but if you use one of these solutions ends up generating a polygon with 5 vertices, I think a better solution would be to model the square part first and then the round beak
My favorite "Problem Solving" bit was when you addressed the loud talkers in the meeting next door... that was awesome! It's precisely what I love about your tuts - you keep it really real! (and I learnt stuff too!)
*Thumbs up, as usual.
The round and square "indents" are holes, all the way through the anvil.
Nathanael Townsend What are their purpose? Hold a hammer or something?
lessemo mostly to help bend metal
To bend metal, yeah, but people use them to hold hammers all the time
For bending and some shit like that. Like you can put a hot iron rod in there and bend it at will. The round hole is usualy used for making nails. You just bash it with hammer until it has the head every nail needs :)
The square one is also used to hold diferent kinds of tools: cutting tools, fullering tools, all kind of stakes for armouring...
I mostly use it with a bent bar to hold firmly any piece i'm working on
Im having fun! but just to know a bit about blacksmithing.... the two holes should be through holes not pockets. The square hole is called a Hardy hole for holding square shanked tools or stock and the round Pritchel hole is for punch clearance or holding of round stocks. They are always through holes.
Thank you for another amazing video. I just wanted to share to those of you like me that struggled to follow his plan with the square hole (around 20min), I did this using the Boolean modifier he showed us in the second video. By cutting away with a cube and then extruding down and creating a face. After doing this I also found I could create loop cuts within this space making it easy to tidy up without effecting the rest of the anvil mesh.
So I recently made my 2nd donut, then a cake, and when I started to watch this tutorial I thought "Well, I might as well skip the modeling part as I'm pretty sure I'm good enough at using loop cuts, merging vertices and removing doubles and it seems to be a lesson on that". Especially since I watched this once already sooome time ago without practice. But now that I've finished it I can see how important lesson on topology it was and how incorrectly I was using loop cuts, merging and stuff and how much better of 3D artist I just become. In short, brilliant lesson Andrew!
I'm here from 2023
Started learning blender in October 2022 for the purpose of virtual staging in Real Estate. Discovering this channel has been one of my greatest achievements.
Dear Andrew Price, I can't thank you enough for been this amazing. Thanks for helping me start a career as a 3D artist.
UV unwrapping video is just what I need.
Derpy agrees!
Where is it? Didn't see a link when he "pointed" to one...
Odds are it isn't up yet.
Agree!
Ye dude
One thing I've learned from your tutorials, is you've literally answered every single question I ask myself during the tutorial
Guys for the holes at the back of the anvil, they’re a complete hole from top to bottom, he’ll realize this later in the series and tell you to do it yourself
I might just quit while I'm ahead and make a Game called 'Donuts and Anvils vs Procedural Eyeballs'. Could be a hit.
This is an amazing Tutorial for someone pretty new like me. Really easy to follow. A pleasure to watch.
Thanks heaps for the excellent series of anvil-modelling tutorials, Andrew. I especially like the way this series took the time to go into quite a bit of depth. It not only showcased a wide variety of modelling tools, and how to use them in context, but also demonstrated the overall modelling arc, from concept to finishing touches. This level of completeness is rare. Keep up the great work, and thanks for sharing.
Blender Guru seems like a nice guy, but he loves a chat and takes a while to get to the point. This has put me off checking out these tutorials before as I am impatient.
HOWEVER, this set is gold dust! I haven't seen any other tutorials clearly explain how to work with Sub Div modifier and cleaning up Topology. Tricky subject to get your head around but these tutorials nail it. Good work!
Andrew, both of those holes are supposed to go all the way through. And that "hardy hole" (the rectangular hole) is supposed to be square. You were right though, the round hole is round.
how would you go about creating the hole all the way through? is it as simple as doing the boolean operation we did in the beginning or would i need to adjust faces and all that?
I am a Blender novice, never really gotten beyond making custom logos. My comment was with regard to the accuracy of the model as I am also a novice blacksmith.
Sorry if my out-of-place comment a couple years ago caused any problems for you
@@Randaakarim just boolean it all the way through
@@Cyanidedan I did a mix, extrude the whole way through, then delete the bottom faces before connecting everything back up again with the topology I wanted, using snap to vertex to align everything :)
Andrew...you're the king of Teaching Blender...not Blender...TEACHING Blender...which is so much more dificult. Please continue doing it!
The tip with hitting F during loop cut is awesome! You should make a video on quick tips like that, I never knew that.
I completed the donut tutorial and now this and I just have to say that I really appreciate you putting these awesome beginner level guides out there. I'm now making usable models in minutes instead of tripping over horrible unusable creations for hours. Thank you very much sir, I made sure to like all your videos and subscribe.
4:49 - for Blender 2.8 users: use Shift+Tab to turn on snapping and click the ruler button at the top center of the 3D Viewport. Click on Edge.
Then click the merged Vertex and snap it to the bisect / loop cut (By pressing G and moving it close enough to the edge).
It's better than having the lines either indent or bump out of proportion.
almost finished watching this last episode of the series and I can't help but comment that the way you handled the whole process has been enormously enlightening. You have a new subscriber!
I've lost count how many times I've restarted this video accidentally doing a Loop Cut because I didn't have the Blender window in focus and Control+R reloads a page in Chrome. :facepalm:
Thank you so much for the tutorial! I've tried to make my own anvils in the past, and none turned out so well because despite knowing how to operate all of the tools, I didn't have the mindset behind each step I could take to produce the model. This tutorial has me thinking about previous models I've made and how having a different mindset to the tools/methods I use could make it an easier/cleaner model (in terms of topography.) Thanks!
I would legit die of happiness if u did a human modeling or sculpting tutorial
I guess he probably shouldn't do one then
David Koffi he did one. Don't die yet. At least watch the video first
same here mate!
@@steven4565 which one mate? can you please tell the name of the video?
@@ROGUE.119 he uploaded it a year ago. Just search blender guru sculpting
I love your passion for details! For me as a basic beginner it is good to learn this procedures from scratch. Looking towards the 'unwrapping and mapping the anvil' tutorial...
When creating the Square-hole you can just inset the face before extruding it to create a loop around the top. Or you can just Bevel the edges
That was I was thinking too
Exactly, I'm surprised he didn't even mention that method as it would be the better way to do it
Could I use a cube which gets subtracted with a boolean modifier?
Yes, but you would still need to add edge loops to sharpen the edge. Extruding inward would be the best way.
I was think the same, almost anticipating being the smart student because in just a moment, he is going to reveal the smart way of doing what I am already thinking.
Watched your entire tutorial series and the problem solving became so darn easy. For the loop cuts on the extruded cube hole at the top, I simply hid the horn and performed the loop cut and just solved many other issues on my own with your training. Thank you so much for this.
12:50 - Remember to turn off proportional editing when straightening out the base. Otherwise, your adjustments will have a rippling effect throughout the model.
Congrats and thanks. The best teacher I've ever seen. I did everything in this series at least 3 times not because it was difficult but to be able to do it by myself. Thus I was able to see that you didn't give us a ready made solution but a real life solution. Thanks again.
Hey man, awesome tutorial. I have a couple of things about the anvil to point out though. I know this is an old video but this is just in case you decide to remake this in the future for 2.8.
The square hole is called a hardy hole, it's for plugging in hardy tools, and they need to be firmly held in place. To this end, and since tooling for anvil making is really expensive, the square hole is standardized to 1 inch, or around 2.5 cm. But the important thing is that it's perfectly square, otherwise it's completely useless. It's one of those things that ruin everything once you know them.
I've been thinking about a solution but I can't do it without deforming even slightly the horn, whose geometry is also standardized and important for realism.
The other hole is called a pritchel hole, and it's there so you have clearance to finish punching through a piece of steel. As such, position and size are not really important as long as it's not so big it would allow the steel around it to deform when punching. Also, it's more comfortable to have on the side you work from of course, which you did right.
You can also put tools with round handles in there, so that should be considered when choosing size. That being said, most blacksmiths forge their own tools, so that's not really a problem.
Because of this, when modeling a workshop, a lovely little detail would be to shape all the tools based on the hole sizes of the anvil. It also helps a lot with scale in my opinion.
Yes I am indeed unbearable.
Thanks, I love finding out this kind of stuff
Great series of videos for beginners. Since you showed simple solutions for problems that have made me quit in past, I won't give up again that easy. Thank you!
Just to let you know, I suffered through a 4 minute ad, cause you deserve the ad revenue.
I've been at it on and off for a few years and your alternate ways of doing simple things helped me speed things up a lot. I appreciate the information, thanks.
I am so waiting for texturing tutorials!!! :D
That will be just awesome! :3
Joki 3D Same
yes dude
I've watched too many blacksmithing videos. The holes not going all of the way through the anvil were bothering me more than it should.
me too ahhaah Man at arms Forge din fire etc
Bothered me as well, as my father owned a couple of anvils. These holes go through for fairly practical reasons, both for manufacturing (it is easier to make an anvil that way) and for actual use. The hardie hole (square hole) is used to hold a variety of tools, and needs to be deep enough for a secure hold. (The hardie hole in the model is both too wide and too shallow.) The pritchel hole (round hole) is for punching metal, and you don't want your punch to hit the anvil.
Hardie holes don't always go straight, mind. You can find anvils where the path of the hole curves, and block anvils might have the hole meet up with a crosscut hole. But they are legitimate holes, not just depressions.
Can't believe I've only seen this now. I never knew how and where to start 3D modeling, but I've always admired it. Thanks to this series, I finally got to doing it. Thank you so much for this!
Title: Final Touches
Content: Deletes the whole anvil
well, I had to repeat whole process around 10 times, but I finished it, and I like the result. If you struggle , repeat multiple times, you will get this. Great lesson.
Both of those holes you made starting from 16:40 (called hardie hole and pritchel hole in order) actually go straight through the anvil, they are used for specific tools but also commonly used for bending rods and spikes.
You can see it better in this picture: upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4c/Fciron-anvil_face.jpg
I'm no the only person who notice it.
this really bothered me cus trying to put it in my model was very different to what he does here.
would love to see how he adds a hole like this considering you have to add faces along the inside of the whole.
@@daslynnter9841 Here's how I did it:
1) Go to Edit → Preferences → Addons and activate LoopTools.
2) Select a face on top and one on the bottom of the anvil.
3) Press W and select LoopTools → Bridge. It creates a sort of tunnel between the two faces.
4) If your mirror modifier is still active, it will create a face in the middle of the hole. Delete it and you're done!
@@pranavghantasala6808 W is not opening Looptools :(
@@shokomann if the LoopTools addon is activated in preferences then you should find a LoopTools menu at the top of the W menu
You can tell he got a little anxious in the middle and was going to end the video but actually got distracted and kept it going.
See everyone has those moments where they don't quite know what to do. Even blender god
I got to use a real anvil and wow it was great. The prices are crazy on them these days.The square and round holes go all the way through though.
Great Subject model to do in Blender. Followed all 4 tuition videos and indeed they have taught me a bunch of modelling technique's and with a bit of everyday humour thrown in. I have completed the anvil and thanks, very informative and helpful.
You could do the "Blender Critique" on modeling, you prepare the theme like shotgun and ask people send to you, when finish you make the shotgun and explain some errors that people do in their model, I know would be hard and a mess but you can try :D
You can do patron and give the oportunity to people help you and you help them.
I think that would be a good idea.
Dude, I have completed ur doughnut tutorial and ur anvil tutorial in 7 hours ... U are just amazing, a pleasure to watch and extremely informative and detailed. Thank u, buddy. I truly appreciate it. Oh ... And the cat licking the ice ball was f******* hilarious xD
In a real anvil the square and circular holes would actually go through. It would also be a good topic on how to solve that, since you have to rejoin everything again on the other side. It took me some fiddling around to get it how I wanted it. Anyway, great tutorial, it really helps getting started with Blender. One little thing though, in some sections you rush things a little bit too fast, I had to rewatch some sections multiple times to get what you actually did there.
This tutorial made me do sooo many small and annoying mistakes. But solving them is what made me better at blender, so thanks for not making this tutorial too easy! :D
For those who have problems getting good long loop cuts:
Whilist in Edit mode, use Select -> Select All by Trait -> Faces by sides -> Greater than 4
Then You might find some 'ngons', which have too many vertices. Use the methods Andrew taught us to merge extra vertices ("delete doubles" before 2.80) and You should be better off. :)
thanks
Andrew, thank you for the great tutorials. As someone new to Blender I really appreciate you. Just a couple notes on this video, from the standpoint of accuracy. In a real anvil, the round (pritchel hole) and square (hardy hole) do go all the way through the top of the anvil. These are use to hold attachments in place which a blacksmith may use in forming various shapes.
As an aside, this tutorial got me interested in the design of anvils. I was genuinely surprised that this classic cartoon gag was more than just a heavy chunk of refined metal; the amount of consideration put into your typical anvil, the ways it expedites a smith's work, kinda blew my mind.
I am metalsmith and my only problem with the modeling here that the hole is not right, it have to be square. The hardy hole is a square hole into which specialized forming and cutting tools, and allows you to secure various tools in the anvil. It is also used in punching and bending operations. The pritchel hole is a small round hole that is present on most modern anvils. So I cut the square face with the knife tool half than I extuded the hole. After this with loop cuts I could make it nice :)
Square is a hardie hole used to hold a variety of hardie tools, or for bending metal, or for measuring (usually they're an exact square...makes forging 45 degree shoulders very easy). The round hole is a pritchel hole used when you're punching through the metal to make a hole so you don't damage the anvil surface. Both holes go all the way through the heel of the anvil.
This is such a good series :) thank you. I'd been putting it off because I thought an anvil would be quite boring - judging a book by its cover essentially... but actually it covers a good range of problems you might encounter and its very clear to follow :D I feel like Andrew is an old friend of mine :P very well done, thank you :D
Love the tutorials - the square hole in the anvil is called a hardy hole and is used to hold various tools for cutting and bending. The circular hole is called a pritchel hole and is used when punching holes. Both hardy and prichel holes on the anvils I have seen go all the way through the anvil, but unless we have to show overhead or look up shots, saving time by not making a through hole is a good compromise.
Make an episode of this tutorial which shows the differences in the model if it was made for game use, movie use, simple render or to be animated. Also maybe an example how it would look if a professional artist had to make such an object really really quickly (show the tools and workflow).
When extruding the square, you can edge loop nicely by hiding the faces surrounding the box!!! This will prevent the edge loop from looping all the way around the anvil.
Thanks for the tutorial!!!
18:00 , Just hide the rest of the Anvil and do a loopcut at the dip there.
that's what I did
It can create some non-rectangle shapes on the anvil, so keep that in mind.
Ngon trigger! I mean there's another method but it's difficult to explain here..
Thanks for this amazing tutorial,I have finished my anvil without any lighting issues
17:30 couldn't we also just use a boolean? Add a cube, modify it's dimensions and clean up the mess from the subserf?
This series is pure gold. It addresses EXACTLY the modeling stuff I was struggling with. Much better then most paid courses. Finally some really useful mesh problem solving. Maybe you should change the title to make it more specific? (Mesh problem solving or something like that? I think a lot of people would be looking for this). Thanks for your work.
One vertex
Two vertices
Its so great to see the cat video you linked at the end of the survey,Thank you for the little touches
to those anybody using blender 2.9x struggling to find Merge At last @ 8:50
you can just press "M" instead of alt + M
For the rectangular hole you can add the proximity edges using the knife tool instead of doing entire edge loops that will distort the nose of the anvil. The knife tool was introduced in part 2.
For the cube hole at the top, could you inset and extrude downward?
I think so
You can use Boolean instead if you're lazy enough to make loop cuts.
There actually IS an easy way to point the indent on the top of the anvil's corners. Select ONLY the edges that you want to have a loop cut on (Do not confuse Blender by selecting random edges over your mesh) and then press [Ctrl + Shift + R]. This will add a loop cut on only the faces that have a corresponding edge. Some problems, however, is that Blender becomes confused when this tactic is attempted on an edge that is connected to a face with more than 4 vertices. Another problem is that if an edge is connected to TWO faces at once (Which is more likely than not) then it will create a cut on both faces that the edge is touching (Same for 3+ faces). Also, just wanted to say how awesome this mini beginner tutorial series has helped. I had no idea oriental shaping was a thing, even though it has it's own button. Thanks, my dude!
Maybe someone wrote it ... If you want make a loop cut, but not on whole object, you can select all faces which you want cut, invert selection (Ctrl + I) and hide them (H). Now loop cut will affect only visible faces. After that unhide (Alt + H) ... I am using blender 2.82
Thank you!
I just binge watched/did the entire tutorial while listening to the OST of Hyrule Warriors. Certainly made it a more genuine celtic experience. I love these tutorials and I'll be sure to follow them all through the end!
my trouble is being able to tell/remember which loops/vertices i need and which ones i can get rid of, im amazed that u knew intuitively the loops that you had to leave intact.
Your hollow box on top drove my ocd wild.. Dare I suggest you might have opted for an inset with boundary before your extrude? That should have given you a place for isolated proximity loops without the underside distortion? A fabulous set of videos though man.. I think this video finally helped me reconcile my lack of understanding over how to approach re-topology!
HE UPLOADED
Now we wait for part 5.
I'll set up the campfire!
just ripping through your tutorials like madman, Loving your work Andrew
I know this video is a year old but I just wanted to say it got very confusing when you were deleting vertices and faces.
Know right :)
3 years later after the video is posted,, and I learned probably 5 months of experience just from this turtorial. Thanks Andrew 😊
Guru: Here's the part where you can stop if you're happy
Me: I'll keep going!
Guru: delete a bunch of vertices and make weird faces
Me: I'm happy with what I've got!
Wonderful tutorial. I have enjoyed it very much. One detail: the square hole (the hardy hole) and the round hole (the pritchel hole) at the top (face) of the anvil actually go all the way through so that they accomodate long pieces to work on. Thanks again for your tutorials
What is the problem using triangles? In my opinion in some cases they are very appropriate to use...
I don't get his problem with them as well. Triangles are even better as they are always flat, so there are no weird geometry gradients. When doing assets for games, you almost always use triangles.
They can be problematic if modeling with subdivision in mind. Can cause oddball warping in some cases. Mainly it's an issue if the point of a tri occurs on an edge crease. For some things though, tris do make sense. Like cones, or perhaps the poles of a UV sphere. Also it's ok-ish for a tri to occur on a planar surface where there's no surface transition over the surrounding edges.
If you're staying low-poly and not intending to do any smoothing at all, then this rule doesn't really apply. Yet it's still a good practice to get into, because many higher detail models have their shape developed at a lower detail stage and those tend to be subdivided a few times.
Blender and some other programs use squares.. 3d game editor programs most of the time use triangles. but yes in some cases they are appropriate or 5 or more.
Also I agree with pauljs75
try to loop cut some triangle
Derpy Maymayz that's actually not entirely true. The n-gons in 3d-editors are internally constructed from triangles. If you create a plane (or any other n-gon face in blender), then manipulating only one vertice will show you that they are aktually made from triangles. That makes sense, because an n-gon with an n greater than 3 cannot be flat, if not every one of its vertices are on one vector-plane, which would make modeling a lot more headach inducing, if they weren' made out of triangles.
I found Knifing (K + C) the vertices to make the hole easier, since it allows for new loopcuts that are restricted inside the hole. Had no problem sharpening the edges without affecting the rest
12:38
For those using Blender 3.0 now it's called Dissolve Edge instead of Edge loop (Ctrl+x)
Still called edge loops in the delete menu (x key) in Blender 3.1.2. Althought I think dissolve edges also works in this case.
got confused a little at the clean up section but thanks to your clear instructions i managed to figure out what was wrong, your like the best tutor on youtube!
Andrew when adding the holes on top which go all the way through btw , why didn't you just extrude inwards and edge then extrude down to start the hole from the top since it already had a square defined in the mesh?
Learned much on this 4 tuts. Specially the shortcut mania is something what make's life easier - if you know it !
Texturing this anvil ? Do it !!
Great job so far -thx a lot for this man !!!
I thought you are going to do boolean again for the square hole lol
This is the first blender tutorial I followed and I find refining the topology actually very enjoyable!
Is there any particular reason that when creating the holes on the top of the anvil, you used loop cuts rather than the knife tool? I used the knife tool and didn't run into any problems (that I've noticed yet). Just wondering if I'm going to run into something when rendering perhaps?
I learn so much from your tutorials. I find that if I go through the several part lessons like this and the donut, you do such a good job of leading a person through the whole process that I feel I've taken a course on the subject. Thanks for these!
That's not an ice cube! It's an ice sphere!
magic cat
Not just an ice sphere...
It's an ice DEATH STAR
I disagree, it's a borderless ice cube !
It's a cube with subdivide surface 7 modifier
Very helpful! I'm giving myself a crash course in modeling before i begin study this year and this proved VERY valuable!
Why when you do the extudes the mirror modifier works perfectly for you? even if i have clipping and merge activated, it ALWAYS create an extra face in the mirror join. How you do it to avoid that?????? i always need to delete that extra face afterwards. Or is it that 2.79 have too many bugs already?
same problem here
I was having this problem, so if anyone ctrl+F's for mirror sees this and is having it too, for me, I had one of my duplicated 'trash' anvils still showing, not hidden. Sorry for the long run-on sentence lol.
Thanks to everyone that pointed out that the hardie and pritchel holes go all the way through. I looked for a while to confirm this and found that's hard to see in most reference photos and there are a lot of models that get it wrong too. But sure enough, they go all the way through (thus "holes") and I learned a bit about blacksmithing along the way.