Fanatec CSL DD WOBBLING Shaft Issue - Is it CRITICAL?
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- Опубліковано 26 жов 2024
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In this video I'm going to show a problem that multiple users have reported: a slight up and down movement in the shaft (wobble). Basically its a movement of the center axle and it seems like the shaft is bent. This issue can be worrying, but, don't jump to conclusions too soon.
Sources:
/ now_is_on
/ anyone_with_similar_ex...
#fanatec #wobble #explained
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Guys, I had the same issue plus the wheel base wasnt sporadically recognized (woblng meand the shaft is not stocked all the way in and therefor the usb connection gets lost sometimes). Just unscrew the one star screw holding the tightening black lock, then you can remove a kind of usb C to wheel type metal adapter and restock it all the way in and tighen the locking screw all the way. Now it is rock solit and no wobbling. I was afraid to break it. but take my advice, it if is wobbling and not connected all the way in, then the probablity of damage is much higher than just unscrewing one locking lock and placing all the parts in.
I've experimented with this quite a bit and I find it is not a great design. The alloy part of the shaft that attaches to the carbon shaft is tapered, this does not actually help with centering. The worst thing I've found is that you can actually MOVE the shaft core by trying to flex the steering wheel. This will make it wobble even more (or less). It is NOT the carbon shaft inside the wheelbase but the part mounted by the clamp (quick release shaft) that's wobbling. Standing at the back of the CSL DD looking down on the shaft rotate it and try to catch the point where the movement is the biggest, stop and try bending the steering wheel the other direction. Rotate again and repeat, this way you SHOULD be able to straighten the core to the point of no wobble. How to keep it straight is another thing... I've tried many things but even when tightened to the extreme I was able to move the shaft. What did help for me was actually against Fanatec instructions - unscrew the clamp and rotate it so that the cut in the carbon shaft is hidden, so that is 90 degrees to the right. Like so: "---" cut in the carbon shaft " | " cut in the clamp. Then tighten it quite firmly while pushing in the aluminium core. Next thing is to do the "eliminating wobble" operation I described earlier and then tighten to 15NM (it's best to have a torque wrench, but 15NM is REALLY freakin tight). This eliminated the wobble to the point where even after a hard session with 100% FFB it would not return (granted if I hanged myself on the wheel it would probably decenter it slightly again). I'm actually working on a clamp that would clamp the carbon core AND the aluminium shaft at the same time aligning them straight and not allowing for any movement or misalignment. I believe this is what FANATEC should have done in the first place. Carbon and aluminium are known for slipping against eachother. One other thing I've done to help it (you can do it too) is add a little bit of CARBON ASSEMBLY PASTE on the aluminium core before inserting it into the shaft, as well as a bit between the clamp and the carbon shaft. That paste is designed for carbon bicycle assembly where carbon/carbon and carbon/aluminium parts are clamped together to avoid slipping (for example on seat tubes, handlebars etc.). This would be my input on this, honestly I think an aluminium shaft in the CSL DD with a cylindrical contact faces (standard tubes) would be a better solution here, don't know why they went this direction.
When I saw the CSL DD's shaft for the first time, I felt it was way too long. The length makes it so the shaft has more leverage than a shorter shaft so any up and down forces will crank the wheel bearing. Unless the bearings were designed for these types of forces, the bearing is going to wear out prematurely. And high quality bearings are expensive so I wonder what kind of bearings Fanatec used for a $350 wheel base.
Actually its not a defect. Just take your qr off, loosen the clamp, push the shaft in and while you are applying force to the shaft so it would sit in straight, just tighten the clamp. It's an alignment issue and can be solved in a minute..
I was able to fix my wobble and it has still been straight after 12hrs of use. You can loosen the clamp, press in the shaft by hand and make sure it's is sqaure, tight clamp and make sure it is still square, then torque to the recommended spec of 15nm/132in-lbs.
You may have to lift up or down while your pressing it in to make it square.
Thanks for sharing this.
Is it still fixed? Where did you find the recommended torque?
@@RomanoFalchi I found it on the csl dd manual some time ago. Give it a google search, I'm sure you will find something on fanatec forum
did anyone else try this ?? did it work ?? thanks
what square?
My shaft wobbles. The wife seems to like it, so I'm going to keep it.
As for the wheelbase's shaft... I can't feel it when racing, so meh. I am just glad I don't have the bearing issue. The issue where if someone pushes the shaft in one direction, an audible clonk can be heard. The DIY hack in me would rather open the wheel up and tighten what ever is loose, but having a warranty, I'd sooner send it back to Fanatec. And then I play the replacement lottery... Now you see why I'd want to fix it myself?
Haha, that’s good, that shaft needs some maintenance from time to time, It’s nice that she supports your passions.
As for the wheelbase’s shaft, at this price point… yeah, we re going to see some imperfections. I’m in the same boat as you here, I’d rather stick with it as it is other that lose seat time / send mails / phone calls, you know… We still have many months of warranty left so Im guessing worse case scenario It’s covered as well.
Usually takes a while to iron out early production issues, but the shaft shouldn't be wobbling about. My CSL DD is virtually silent in use, can sometimes hear rumble strips as well as feel them, but when testing the same FFB output with a different wheelbase the exact same feedback was present if somewhat "muted"
My shift has the same wobble slightly. I noticed a while ago and I asked others if they had a wobble and they were clueless, I thought I was the only one. Thanks for making the video, now I know I'm not alone and it'll be ok, hopefully.🙏🤙
Yeah some are lucky enough that there’s almost no wobble at all, depends on luck.
@@GitGudRacing the slap part in the video was funny too.😆
@@upsetuloss haha
nope, it didnt@@Nutteloosnl
Since its carbon fibre shaft, it cant bend. Guess its the bearing... i wonder if the bearing sits directly on the carbon fibre shaft? or if they have some wear ring? I hope we can change the bearing ourself, since warranty is not forever.
Thanks. I was really worried about that
You’re welcome buddy. Enjoy your wheel!
My is perfect after 1 year of intense play.
Love fanatec ❤
just got my csl dd. it has the most wobble ive seen out of any video or post.
tbh i dont notice while driving at all.
Its not a problem other than knowing its not perfect.
Piss poor Fanatec. And no, this is NOT acceptable and if my Simucube was this bent, I most definitely would not accept it. Defending Fanatec here is just sad.
How much did your Simucube cost mate? This base was 350€
@@GitGudRacing Thats not really the point, is it?
Depends how you look at it. Some people can not afford to spend 1k+ just for the base only. Maybe they’ll be happier with a cheaper product that is far from perfect but at least “works”, don’t you think?
So costs plays a big part in all of this, in my opinion of course. If this was happening on their DD1 / DD2 I would 100% be on your side and would have returned it on the spot.
And to be honest if I had 1k+ to spend just for the base I would have gone with VRS / Simucube most definitely.
@@GitGudRacing I know what you mean but the math doesnt work out. 350 is not the cost for somebody enetering the Fanatec ecosystem, the real price is considerably higher.
But even ignoring this, its not acceptable unless stated so in their advertising or T&C. Instead you get "gamechanger" and "express shipping" for Christmas orders while others who pre ordered months before, are still waiting.
Its just not honest business practice and 350 or not, it should not be "acceptable". Is your iphone reception not working? Just hold it differently...
Yeah mate I agree its not good practice what they do with the advertisement, but you have to take it with a grain of salt, I mean do we really expect Simucube quality from Fanatec? They have different business models and capitalize on different markets. They are selling this 350€ base at a loss / maximum with no rewards at all just to suck people into their ecosystem. Do you really think they will make it rock solid with perfect alignment? They’re a business, their whole purpose is to make money not to serve the customer. However what other choices do we have in this price point?
Mine CSL DD doesn’t wobble but simplified qr on McLaren wheel is clunking on the shaft. There is also barely noticable electrical/magnetic buzz (in AC) when the car is stationary and I start turning the wheel but goes away when I start driving. My previous base CSL Elite had a little wobbly shaft but never had an issue with that.
I had the clunk too, put a few layers (needed 3 for mine) of thin spripe of kapton tape at the side of the keying on the shaft and one wide striple as a final layer to cover the whole channel. The clunk is happens since the male keying on the QR lite is undersized compared to the female keying on the shaft and at higher load it can rotate a bit and the other side of the keying stops the rotation.
Hey, I have the same issue in AC and at first I thought it was a game feature, which I found weird and unpleasant. Most people don't have this?
Mine wobbles too and it makes some noise sometimes.. It's annoying to be honest. The worst thing is dealing with fanatec customer service, it's really bad!
This is one of the reasons I went with sim-plicity DD Drive instead of the Fanatec DD. A lot more force and quality for the same money. But it is not usable on consoles
never heared of them before, will check it out.
I do hope their products are better than their web design.
They apparently have a 65NM wheel in beta...
Are they even legit?
@@phillipmcmahon5949 they used to be well known.... like 4 years ago.
Bad WebDesign and not communicating with the community as much and now no one knows what they are up to.
But their DDs are still legit and their are a legitimate company so its probably worth a try.
@@TheInsaiyan thanks for the info.
Seeing they have a 65nm version makes me think they aren't for sure. That's a table, mount, wrist and arm snapper right there.
@@phillipmcmahon5949😓
think i got lucky with mine. shaft is perfectly straight and the qr is perfectly snug fitting.
Mine has this issue but doesn’t affect performance
Mine makes a klunking noise when i move it up and down, how do i solve this?
A M3 grub screw, under the clamp, through the carbon and stuck into the aluminum or some slots in aluminum would help solve this, wouldn't it?
Anything can fail in a Fanatec product, bases that break, worrying noises, clearances in shafts, Podium steering wheel buttons that break and a long etc about this brand, in Spain we have nicknamed it as Failtec
Lol
@@GitGudRacingI have a question do you still have the wobble or not if yes did it get worse? And some. People say to me that is normal the wobble in the shaft but do you know ?
It didn't got worse. I upgraded last weeks to Simucube 2 PRO, but the CSL DD had no issues whatsoever for me. It kept the same wobble and I wasn't noticing it while racing. I wouldn't worry about it, but at the same I can feel why people are getting upset with Fanatec here. Quality should have been better!@@Theonlineracer
My first CSL DD 8Nm burned itself after 2 weeks. I received the RMA'd product (new wheelbase) yesterday and tested it today for 2 hours. Suddenly it disconnected mid-race and after checking the wheelbase, the usb-connector in the QR1 shaft had bent and destroyed. What the fuck is going on.
Can you twist a DD Pro endless or there are Cables inside that makes a Twist?
😂 No cable, it is magnetic 👍🏼
I just put together my brand new dd2 and it has this issue.
No way is it really bad or not ?
Do you know if Moza bases has this same problem?
After watching your videos, I am kinda scared to purchase DD pro O_O. It seems like it just have a lot of possible issues. But hmm, I want it for ps5 / gran turismo 7 , so not that much more choices i guess :/. Meh, don't know what to do.
Yeah, for consoles you don't have so many choices. Although you should keep in mind that the satisfied customers that does not have any major issue with the product won't post a thing about it, that's why it looks so one sided. The CSL DD is an amazing product when it works, and in case you have some problems Fanatec will replace your unit. For the price (350$ 5NM + you can make a custom power supply for 25$ to unlock the 8NM) I don't think there's a better option tbh.
@@GitGudRacing yeah if, thrn i would probably go with bundle option with pedals and wheel, as i dont have anything atm, and that is a bit more money. About fanatec support i heard alot of bad stories about their support so idk. But yeah it is like you said, mostly bad thing are mostly talked about on internet and ppl with no problems just play the game and dont post about it anywhere :). Bud dd pro is kinda fresh device, I dont think that that many units have been sold yet, so who know how many non-problem users are there :)
@@ChrumkavySuchar yeah true, you can also wait few more months if you want to see how well does the CSL DD age, or if you're feeling unsecure you can buy 1 more year as extra warranty. Tbh looking back I wish I did that.
@@GitGudRacing will see, maybe try to wait till one local dealership will have the set for sale - for nearly everything they provide extra 3y warranty for some money, might be worth it. ( alza in slovakia)
same i go for thrusmaster TG T 2 short shaf les change op wobling (nog writing even of this).
mine was like that day one. never thought to much of it
Where can i ask them to replace my wheel??
just open clamp pull shaft out and putt it back in straight . thats not a tolerance issue like you describe , thats cause the clamp losen over time.
A lot off people say that this is normal and it’s for a reason idk for what anymore but the wobble was there for a reason says some people and some people say it’s a problem I have it also everyone has it so I think it’s normal or idk?
Glad I canceled my
Pre order a while back and went with the DD1.
It can happen also in the DD1/DD2 as it is not related to to shaft but to the clamping. It depends on luck if you get it or not. I am one of the lucky ones since mine is almost non-existent, but even in the case you have a little wobble it is more of an esthetic problem more than a functional one (unless you have extreme wobble, in that case you should surely RMA).
TBH if it does end up failing ill just send it to get repaired and sell it off when i get it back and maybe go down the simucube route maybe be a bit more expensive but hey, if we are spending this type of money Quality is expected.
its going to wobble. its taking so much tension and torque, its pretty normal and doesn't effect the performance for me.
its what i call normal usage degradation.
im not worried at all.
Great content again!! Thank you man.
my shaft has this shit, but its ok. I think it doenst influence in the game.
Shouldn't be play of any sort. It would bother me greatly to have any movement in my wheel
Hello Git!
Do you think the wobbling stops with the new qr 2?
hard to say man, but I'm keen to think it won't. However I used the base for 2 years and everything was ok, even with the wobble, so I wouldnt worry!
@@GitGudRacing thanks man!
Wobbling shaft in my case as well..
this is why i'm selling my fanatec gear and going simucube all the way ... Fanatec was a great product but became so mainstream that they dont care about their quality and costumers.
Well shit, got mine and it's bent to the left. If it was bent down or up I wouldn't mind. I don't know if it's the shaft or what's holding the shaft
Mine is exactly the same! Slight bend to the left sound right?
@@codyzempel5506 I sold mine instead of asking for a replacement. Didn't wana risk a sexond one
Really? What did you end up replacing it with or just haven't yet if you don't mind me asking? Because I'm completely turned off by Fanatec..first my CSL V3 showing up not working having to RMA I thought ok frustrating but could of happened during shipping maybe not a direct Fanatec fault fine got them back almost a month later great..finally got to use my setup and my CSL DD stem is bent ever so slightly to the left, I mean no wobble I watched your vid and I get that just have been frustrating beyond belief and how they Fanatec community was treating you on Reddit I'm very disappointed in because they have been nothing but helpful and great to me so to see that I was very disappointed. How much did you get for yours when you sold it? And I guess if you did replace with what?
@@codyzempel5506 I bought an Alpha Mini with the GT4 rim, but kept the CSL pedals. It's been amazing so far, 0 play in the QR, more details and FFB, and strong materials. Everything feels super reliable and aligned. I sold it for a little less than what I paid for it
@@JohnnyEMatos solid choice I've heard a lot of good things about the mini, I might have to make the switch too unfortunately.
I think there are more defective users than defective wheel bases.
i have this same issue, but i can tell you it's the shaft design that sits near the clamp. I guess the machine didn't shave the suface enough to make it flat so that the shaft sits flushed with the clamp area where it goes into. It's kind of hahrd to explain but i took it out and noticed it. I asked fanatec if they can send me a new shaft, i'm waiting onthat reply.
What was the reply
fanatec's customer service is great. I got new shaft with no charge, i was still under warranty. Eventually i returned the CSL DD and bought their Podium DD1 bundle sale. Best decision I've made. CSL DD is cool but I feel back then it was sort of pricey for an 8NM when you have MOZA overtaking entry and midrange options. I believe now the CSL DD is at a great price. @@Theonlineracer
I talked about this design issue when this wheel first came out that there was too much arm moment force being placed on the face bearing inside the case the face of the wheel in the front of the bearing inside the case is too far apart, creating a lever, and it doesn't take much to bend it this was just a terrible design which is why you have that stupid clamp on there and for you to talk about products not being perfect when you purchase them. I'm sorry I can't agree with you you spend that kind of money you don't expect a wobble in the shaft. Sounds like you're just making excuses for Fanatec. also, since you made this video, many more people have experienced the same issues this will only get worse overtime as the bearing faces are torqued continually because the shaft is simply just too damn long. This is what happens when you make a unit for profit my CSL elite box is still the best performing piece of equipment they've ever produced.
Me to .. sam thinking long shaft make this problem more happen therfore i go for the short shaft Thrustmaster TG T 2, les problems also on the internet than with the Fantec DD
i cant feel my wobble but ik its there.
Yeah, some shafts are better than the others it depends on one’s luck.
@@GitGudRacing the worst "shafts" i had where when i had 3 thrustmaster bases. fist time fanatec and i really love it
Happy to hear that mate, enjoy your wheel! I also upgraded from Thrustmaster and its a big difference!
I dont think its acceptable for the price of this wheelbase
ok ....
Simicube will definitely be the answer
Has anyone experienced this with qr2??
I have a slight up and down moevment in the shaft (wobble) in my car also. Does your car do the same?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
CSL DD needs a recall your video no good
Fail tech
Sure there might be wobble but dude you're wobbling the darn camera. Who do you think you're fooling?
Yeah mate there’s some wobble in the camera thats for sure, the first two recordings are from reddit, you can find them in the description and third is mine, recorded by holding the phone, should have recorded without movement but was in a hurry. But, in the first example (first recording) there’s no camera movement whatsoever… plus I think even with the camera movement is pretty clear to differentiate it from the shaft’s wobble. Thx for the feedback though, but don’t dismiss that this thing can’t be noticed with the naked eye.