Fanatec CSL DD Repair
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- Опубліковано 14 лип 2024
- Bought a faulty Fanatec CSL DD wheel base from Ebay but was not expecting the amount of damage that had been caused.
It looks as if the unit was unbolted and dropped onto its front which caused the whole insides to be punched backwards due to the weight of these things.
Here is the repair.
Hope you enjoy the video,
PJskilllz
00:00 Unboxing
02:15 Cover Off
05:55 Un expected Damage
07:20 PCB Off
07:59 Connector Inspection
09:12 SMD Location
09:20 Clamp Damage
13:55 Solder Repair
15:58 Fuse Fault and Replace
17:45 Broken Plate Screws
23:00 Magnet Check and Front Rotation
25:00 Replacing Rear Screws
29:15 Refixing PCB`s
34:30 Covers Back On
37:42 Replacement PSU
38:40 Powering Up
39:02 Firmware Upgrade
39:50 USB Controller Test - Наука та технологія
this helped me a ton, thank you for making this video, i was able to salvage my csl dd when i thought i was out of luck
Cheers for letting me know, Warms my heart that I am helping :)
This video shows me that a front mounting plate, with a relocated power button mod is completely possible for this wheelbase. And it shows that fixing or changing parts is relatively simple. Thank you for this.
Thank you, because of your video, I was able to order the right fuse, replaced it in my base and got it to work. This saved me so much time and money. Really helpful.
Glad I was able to help. Thanks for watching :)
Reading this, I'm so glad for you dude! Happy racing
how your fuse have broke?
@maddugqc6911 likely by doing its job to save something else - overloaded.
A good fuse should blow when it's meant to.
But the reason is always the same
@@maddugqc6911 sometimes a fuse will pop if the unit Is being used in long sessions or most likely a spike in the power
Bro, I do t have this issue myself, and God willing, I won't.
But you're a legend for doing this! It's truly heartbreaking to have hardware like this die. You're saving people in a way as much as you're saving their gear.
Good on ya mate! Much love from Australia, and Merry Christmas
Thanks for this fantastic video! Really impresses me the design of this little DD base, really well packaged, looks smart and reduced overall size, while providing ample space for passive cooling.
Many thanks for watching. Yes the unit is very compact but still quite heavy. I have been loving driving with it.
That usb c connection thing on the shaft is a terrible design imo and seems prone to a lot of issues. Moza has a far superior design on their budget DD wheel but in some other respects the fanatec is better.
This showed me that I don't need to pay 149,95 Euros for the official 180W power supply
Yes but you need to modify the connector with 4 pin molex sockets. You gotta crimp the terminals that require crimp tool. Just saying.
The one that was purchased doesn't require any plug mod as it comes pre made
never cheap out on power supplys. just look into the e scooters blowing up. the fanate supply is made with failsafes to work with the wheel. that 30 dolla one will keep going even if its on fire.
@@shaunitai While you're right that you shouldn't skimp on a power supply, 150 euro is still absolutely ludicrous for what you get and you can DEFINITELY get a third party one will all the same failsafes for significantly less than what they charge.
@@shaunitaithe e scooters catch on fire due to the batteries overheating when charging. Which a cheap charger could cause. This is just a power supply and they dont tend to catch on fire like lipo batteries 😂
Incredible work!
Excellent video!
Nice video to watch , no obnoxious music or overtalking just clean cut and straightfoward . Had to point out not that its a big deal though the lack of flux and the general awkwardness of the soldering had me looking away lol
Man-o-man! The wheelbase has been beat to crap and very poorly worked on before you obtained it. Great job repairing it.
Many thanks for watching, Glad you liked the video :)
If I understand correctly CSL DD They dropped it on the floor with their back, that is, with their rear end. The internal shaft, by inertia, pierces the plastic casing and tears off the hinges. Thus, I damaged part of the board with the blow. The plastic casing is designed only for rotational resistance. But the hinges are not able to withstand a blow in the form of forward and backward. Since the loops are not designed for this. Their task is to maintain the torque. You are absolutely right, there is a large dent in the plastic of the QR bushing. The owner of this base dropped it on the floor with the front part of the CSL DD; its weight is 6-7 kg. And we add all this weight and the inertia is no longer 6-7 kg, but several 10 kg, the plastic casing was simply ripped off its hinges. It's a miracle that the board didn't crack.
Yep I was a little worried when I finally got it and opened it up. Was a risky purchase but it has been working great in my race rig and is one of my more popular videos :)
BTW I love the Crysis avatar, Cry-engine is my fave engine to build worlds in. xx
Dont use philips screws on such applications mate. Just a suggestion. Use hex bolts. Awesome video!
Many thanks for watching :)
Hey! I had one of the connectors come loose where the pedal cable plugs into - does it just pop back in like that if I take it apart? I tried pushing it in but no luck. DD pro 8nm model. Thanks for the video!
Hi thanks for watching, The plastic surround clips back in but if you've pushed the pins back they might just need re-soldering back down again. Should be an easy fix :)
Hey, I just got my dd pro about a month now. Shaft kept coming loose and I had to unclamp and push the shaft back in. After this happening multiple times the usbc coming from the shaft is damaged. Would this be an easy fix for me? Really don’t want to have to send anything back as it will take forever to get resolved
Might just be the cable inside connected to the main board PCB has been pulled away. if your still in warranty then id send it back. If not follow the video and carefully check the cables. Most of the time it will just be a loose wire.
@@pjretroredux Hi, my csl DD shaft also comes loose i have no issues once i push it back in and re-tighten. Am i not tightening it strong enough or is it a poor design. I'm out of warranty now and it's not feasible to send back as i live in Barbados the cost wouldn't make sense. Is there anything you can recommend i can do to stop the shaft coming loose
@@mackd7234 Yeah it does seam to be a poor design on Fanatecs part. I`ve got mine to stay in place just by really tightening it and not resting on the wheel so much to get out of my simulator. I think there are some 3rd party clamps available that helps with this problem.
Thanks for the reply. ok, I'll tighten as much as possible and see how I go
I drove mine for max 5 hours, and shaft came out. I pushed it back in, tightened the clamp as much as I dared, and after 15 minutes of driving it happened again. Again I pushed it back in, and for some reason, the USB connection didn't line up correctly so now I have a damaged USB-C connector....
Such a bad design!
How can I contact you, I have some questions about my csl dd with firmware problems. Also can the usb be removed and used externally (still plugged in to the board) so I can run a cable through the cls instead
Hi, Sorry I don`t give out any personal details. With regards to the USB I assume you mean the centre USB C that the steering wheel HUB plugs into?
Thanks a lot for the video. Very well done. If you don’t matter, I have a question… the axis, the black main shaft of this base, the part you rotate at 28:40, Is made of plastic or metal? Tks
It's plastic. There's a metal shaft that goes into it, you can see him taking it off the box at 0:30. That shaft goes into the plastic and connects to a usb-c port at the bottom, there are 2 cuts on the plastic that align with 2 "wings" on the shaft. To lock it, you use the ring clamp that is also taken from the box at 0:55
@@VitorLeite83 tks Vitor. It’s a surprise a direct drive base with a plastic shaft…
hi, can you help me? when I update my base motor the firmware show 0.0.0 version and not work or update to another version
I've had this issue before and I had to completely remove all software to do with Fanatec then plug the device into a different USB port (preferably USB3) then install latest software and this allowed me to update my firmware. Hope this helps.
This video really helped getting into my CSL DD but unfortunately I was still unable to find the issue. There seemed to be a few bugs in the motor but there was no apparent damage to the board or coils in the motor. Everything looked normal but it shuts off right after turning on with a thump half the time or starts up but starts screeching for a few minutes until it turns off. Do you know what the issue could be?
Are you able to test another power supply? Could possibly be an amp issue.
Pls reopen it and solder the smaller PCB to the legs which are coming from the big PCB. It won't be funny if there is a malfunktion in the ffb because of the bad contact of the unsoldered legs.
...and get a bit of soldering flux, it makes life a lot easier.
yes, a smaller board needs to be soldered
I have finally soldered the legs :) after re shaping my simulator
Is there any video or image that shows the inside of the shaft? I would like to see if it is a pcb or just wires.
Do you mean the metal usb piece that connects the wheel adapter to the base?
@@pjretroredux Yes. I wanted to see what it's like inside.
@@voamos 1 end has the standard USB-C connector and other is the fanatec circular 15 pin plug. there are 2 very tiny rivets or security screws on the USB-C end holding it in place. I'd expect there are just very small wires bridging the 2 types of connectors
@@pjretroreduxIs it possible that there is a PCB or internal circuit? I know that at the base there is already a PCB inside the shaft where this male USB is connected.
@@voamos I would expect it is a simple wired connection to change data from the Fanatec plug into a standard USB C connector then all the function is controlled like you said witht he small pcb that sits inside the base unit
I accidentaly destroyed my USB C port, this video gives me hope that it’s fixable❤
Can I just replace it with any of the same looking ports though?
I would expect there is a replacement part for it, then it just needs soldering in
@@pjretroredux yes i found the part that is needed; MUP-U23001-01, now all i have to find is someone with the skillset to fix it. So far i made some calls to local shops but no luck so far :(
Im based in The Netherlands if anyone might read this.
The pcb has no visible damage
Hi PJ,
Question for you from an inexperienced beginner: I received a new GT DD Pro 1 week ago, everything perfectly assembled and updated. I only use it in ATS and ETS2, so I don't use it that heavily in the game, all parameters worked correctly, BUT: after about 5 hours of trying out and adjusting in ETS2, it's suddenly clearly noticeable in the background when steering of the wheel such a grainy, scratchy feeling!? If all effects are at 0, you can feel the "wobbling" of the axis between 2 magnets each time you turn it, which seems normal. But you can always clearly feel when turning very slowly, as if there were a lot of very fine, grainy little resistances in the background. A Fanatec technical account manager sent me an email instructing me to check various points on the axle and base, but everything is absolutely tight and OK. This "grainy" rough feeling when turning the wheel is clearly noticeable even when it is switched off, even if you grip the axle with your whole hand and slowly turn it, you can clearly feel a rough feeling in your whole hand! Could it be that I'm overly sensitive because I've only played with a very simple, inexpensive plastic steering wheel before? Only thing I'm sure about is that the GT DD Pro only had some sort of cogging/wobbling between any 2 magnets for the first 4-5 hours in ETS2, which would be acceptable... however, that faint grainy, rough feel that many did small resistors in the background not!
Now I'm unsure if I should already be sending the steering wheel base for service because of that fine, scratchy, grainy resistance when turning, or if it's normal behavior of a magnet-controlled unit.
I would be very happy about an answer from you to my problem description! Greetings from Cologne... :-))
OK so it looks like the GT DD set has the exactly same base as me, In which case you should not be getting any rubbing or grainy feeling when the wheel is turned off. It should rotate super smoothly. Sounds to me like the support rings inside the plastic brackets aren`t holding your wheel strait and it is scraping on the magnets.
Hope this helps.
@@pjretroredux PJ, thanks for your quick response!! I think, this is a warranty case, so I will contact Fanatec again. By the way, it was very interesting watching your video! You did a great job! :-))
@@N.C.C.1701 Many thanks, feedback is always welcome :)
@@N.C.C.1701 I hope that you got it fixed as I'm interested to know what their customer service is like. I have read some comments that they often do very little to respond. I want to buy one of their wheel bases but this kind of puts me off. Thanks
Yeah same, praying they replaced your unit with a new one bro
Hey do you of any repair for ffb to cut off for a split second and return? Happens usually on long sweeping turns when ffb is high and clipping. Please let me know if you have a fix for this. Thank you
Hi there, To me that sounds like a current issue as FFB pulls quite a bit of power. If you can maybe replace PSU or at least test another PSU if available
@rawrmadmonkey Something similar happens to me, I have to deactivate the ff for it to work properly, otherwise it starts to rotate suddenly as if it noticed the 6 coils of the motor, it starts to rotate from 1 degree at a time to 60 degrees suddenly, and the force is fatal The most exaggerated is the twist that goes into blows, whether you set the force to 5% or 100%, the more the twist, the more exaggerated the blow, any ideas? It's been happening to me for 2 weeks now, getting worse and worse, in the end I use it without force because I don't have it under warranty @pjretroredux
This is a exemple www.twitch.tv/letro82/v/1969301987?sr=a&t=193s
This is my acount gaming
The only problem I experience is the sudden rotation now, the force if I deactivate it goes finer as it does not send power to the magnets and they do not take control, the force is no longer deactivated, I can raise it to the hyper maximum which is not It deactivates, but the rotation is super annoying to rotate 360 degrees at about 6-10 strokes of the handle, I think it must be something that feeds the coils or something inside is out of adjustment in the coils
Man that is thee most beat up DD I think I've ever seen! Like who took care of that thing? Sides all nicked chunks taken out chipped like it looks like someone just threw it around and expects it to be fixed and work right .. I had to RMA mine they sent me a brand new one the process took like 14 days I was back racing.
Glad your back racing. I expect this was part of a racing kit that got dismantled a lot and just wasn`t cared for.
Fantastic, so you suggest to buy a aliexpress boost kit without problem?
I have been using the AliExpress power supply and it has been absolutely fine, I will say replace the power lead that comes with it though as it is very thin and not fused.
Top, thanks@@pjretroredux
Will the internal USB wires break if the steering wheel turns more than allowed?
no the unit is direct drive so can spin indefinitely but you can give it a software lock within the software
@@pjretroredux And how is the steering wheel USB connected to the base plate? If I turn the steering wheel 20x doesn't it break any internal wires?
@@pjretroreduxIs there a sliding track for the contacts? I saw in the image that the connector with the wires is connected to the board.
@@pjretroreduxThe wires of the piece that you are holding in the 21st minute of the video. That part rotates internally and the plate does not rotate.
@@pjretroreduxAgora eu vi sobre o conector rotativo por indução. Sanou minha dúvida. Tbrigado.
After 2 year of service my CSL DD just stopped working. Pressing the switch, the device would turn on and immediately goes off. Now I notice there is some resistance turning the axel, clearly feeling magnetic strengh. I might give a try opening it and see what is broken inside !
when the unit is powered off you shouldn't have any resistance at all, It may have come loose on the supports. Also if it is powering off it sounds like a power supply issue. Hope you get back racing soon :)
@@pjretroredux Thx for your answer ! I have just dismantled the unit. After completely disconnecting the main board, the shaft can turn freely. As soon as the board touches the 3 terminals, I can feel some resistance. There must be a shortcut in the board (?), but I am not seeing any burnt components :(
@@emmanuelduros1732 Have you tried forcing a firmware upgrade?
and or putting all settings back to default.
Also is there any other software running that could be influencing your USB ports?
@@pjretroredux I can't put a new firmware because the base turns off immediately after turning on. I have the magnetic resistance when the base is fully disconnected (no usb/power cord). The resistance disappears when the main electric board is no longer connected via the 3 connectors to the motor
@@emmanuelduros1732 3 connectors? do you mean the usb module plug that goes centrally on the main PCB.
Question.... Why don't you use flux? It helps the joints from being dry when soldering and makes the solder flow better.
I normally do lol, I think i was so fixated on getting it up together to see if the damn thing even would power up. More speed less time i guess.
Thx for watching
Man, those power connector ground pads we soldered cold, redo those please, with some flux, or fresh solder. It's a hazard waiting to happen.
@@zenflight2450 If it starts playing up I will definitely strip it down and redo again.
cheers for watching
@@pjretroredux bad contacts will produce heat. Check cable temp from time to time.
I came here because my brand new CLS DD started to smell burnt and turned off , then after a few hours of letting it cool down tried it again and aorked for 2 minutes, then burnt smell and turned off... Any idea what might be the issue ? By the way, nice video and great work
Hi Victor, Sounds like 1 of the resistors on the main board has failed and over heated. That would be a definite return to Fanatec. Specially if it smells like burning plastic.
Thanks for watching :)
@@pjretroredux thank you very much for taking your time for your reply. I will contact them ASAP, have a great day 😊
@@victornaderSame issue here, I returned it today. Hope to receive a working one quick, I've only driven 5 mins in total with the unit.
@@Produkt_R sorry to hear that. By any chance where you playing ACC when it happened ?
@@victornader I don't remember actually, could be
Great video... how did someone manage to fuck it up this much?
I also didn`t expect the amount of damage when I bought it. At an educated guess it looks as if someone dropped it forward onto the wheel mount front and it punched all the internals backwards. cheers for watching. x
Nice - did you notice and flash (bios like chip) - I read that csl DD's log thier operation. Also was there any markings on the bottom big chip? (im just woried that they will say warranty void cause of not original psu used - know its just same crap made in china - but still)
Don`t see any markings on any of the chips. I didn`t physically flash any bios only did the firmware upgrades through the Fanatec software. As it is working I haven`t pushed any further upgrades.
I doubt I have any warranty on this unit due to damage but so far the PSU is doing it`s job :)
What retro rally game is that in the show picture?
I think its a replay image from dirt rally, I just pixelated and adjusted it to make it look retro
Hey there could you share the link to that same power unit? Does the connector come installed? Thanks a bunch!
Many thanks for watching, yep the connector is already pre fitted.
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004219221007.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.78a818026SgR9r
Hoping you could point us all to where we could buy replacement PCB’s. Fanatec won’t sell me one and mandates i send mine across the country to get repaired by them. Don’t want to spend the price of a new base just to have it fixed. Thanks!
Hi There, Yeah most companies will not supply individual parts as most are proprietary hardware. I tend to find some bits on ali express or alibaba or failing that purchasing a broken unit for donation parts. What part do you require specifically?
@@pjretroredux email correspondence with Fanatec reveals it’s likely my main PCBA that is faulty. (Causes the wheelbase to disconnect every few minutes and goes into rainbow LED updater mode) your video shows a fairly straightforward replacement that i can do myself likely
@@MydNitQ So ive scoured the interwebs for an hour now and the best your going to get is a 2nd hand unit from ebay but these are selling for stupid money. I would strip down your Unit and take out the pcb then go over every solder point on the back and re heat them with a small soldering iron, Then clean off with a small tooth brush and some isopropyl alcohol, put unit back together and see if this resolves the problem. (Ull be surprised how many pieces of hardware fail due to poor soldered joints) Good luck and hope this helps
Ok so im here because i received my dd this week. Immediately noticed a slight buzz, vibrations the wheel, even when no game is loaded...my son got his and his is perfectly quiet, no noise, vibrations, you wouldnt even know that it is on... is this defective?
Sounds like the main control board is receiving some dirty signals. Have you tried another USB port?
@pjretroredux on the xbox? No not even thought of that
@pjretroredux OK tried a different USB port...its there no matter whether its connected to xbox or PC or not connected at all. Soon as its powered up its their
Sounds like the magnets might be chattering with the current flowing through them. I would send it back if it is still in warrenty
@@StickyGeko yep sounds like the position controller is giving false force feedback. If updatingthe firmware doesnt work I would send it strait back to Fanatec
I noticed you didn't solder the motor position board back on to the header
As the pins didnt have any solder and also checked that the legs actually pushed onto the board. I assume they never were soldered together?
I cleaned the pads and the legs from main board. Fixed the smaller board in to position with tiny screws. I did notice they touched down onto the small board from main board but wasn`t sure if they were soldered.
As it works I will leave it as is but if I get some silly movements from it I will defo solder those legs.
Cheers for watching
@@pjretroredux I believe it should be soldered too. That would explain why mounting screws of the daughter board are accessible through the mainboard.
@@kmartyCZ cheers my man, I will defo strip it down and heat those legs up. 👍
Quick update I did solder the legs in the end when i re positioned my sim rig :)
What happened to this base? 😮
It wasn`t given enough love and had to be re-homed
this damage is not from normal use... someone had to drop it
Yep, Most likely fell from a sim rig whilst being dismantled
Im jealous ...
Who was the idiot trying to repair it first time ? HE did more damage 🤢🤢
It did look suspiciously like someone had a go previous, although the seller didn`t state that on the e-bay listing.
@@pjretroredux How much did you buy it ? Great job BTW 👍 Maybe you will sell it now - and if so - how much ?
@@cocosloan3748 many thanks, it`s actually part of my racing rig now. you can see it on my latest video :)
@@pjretroredux I better subscribe then 👍
Cheap lazy design but yet so expensive, not surprising
Wth did they do to it lol
Not enough love and care
It’s obviously been abused but it looks like a crappy design. So fragile. It may be a low end DD but it’s still a lot of money.
Yep, the magnets are great but the position of the large PCB and the usb-c connector is not great