Here’s a tip, use a piece of tig wire or a welding rod for an angle gauge. Bend the wire to the angle that you desire for your pipe and just use it for a go/no go gauge as you’re bending.
@@hipairbrush1053 I cannot explain it any better than I just did in the comment that you replied to. If you can’t figure that out then maybe you shouldn’t even be messing with this stuff.
That is a good idea. Also, it may be worthwhile to draw a line along the pipe with chalk or other colour that will stand out on the pipe, and this will help to use the square / wire angle, to easily see how the angle is shaping up on the bender
Your guess is spot on! Using the bigger die puts all the force on one spot allowing walls to collapse. Where as the smaller die buts force on at least two points both of which are where the collapsing of the walls would have started thus preventing the kinks from ever starting. Good find!
Watched part 2 of independent suspension build and was gonna ask you a few questions. Clicked on ur page and you answered EVERYTHING in this video....thank you!! I was certain that, if I start doing these builds, I'd be stalled with a thousand dollar tubing bender I can't afford. But apparently this CAN be done. Might take a little longer, but I'm 50....time I HAVE, lol! Thank you 👍
I’ve been using harbor freight bender for like 2 years . What I use is a map torch heat up the metal a lil no kinks at all . Also don’t even bother using this bender if you’re thinking of bending lightweight materials , it will just kink and the 2 metal rollers leaves a little mark on the tube . So use at lease 1/8 thick tubing 🤙🏽
I have a SuperEgo (high quality Spanish made) bender. Had it since around 1988. I have never had the crimping problem but the bending shoes are a snug fit on sch 40 pipe. there is no play and they have to be lightly hammered off after a deep bend, good quality and snug dies. cost around $500 (special price) in '88. I used it 6 years in a fab shop I owned, the guys made shoes (liners) to fit inside the sch 40 dies to fit tubing snugly for no kink bending of thinner wall tube. With stainless thin wall we often used sand. We bent thick wall aluminum with it for tuna towers on sport fishing boats. I had them make up a different set up, two 6 foot or so long slightly bent and reinforced steel channels (one greater radius, the other less) and used them on the floor with a porta jack to bend slight camber in the tubes for canvas covered tower roofs, that was easter than roll bending, faster and always uniform. we had an angle plate bolted to the floor for the jack base and two vertical pipes on each side about a foot outside the die for wood blocks to rotate on to hold the pipe ends. The depth of the chord on the shoes (dies0 is about 18'' on one and 2 feet on the other. Jacking until the pipe came totally in contact with the die and stopping right there gave repeatable uniform curves. Fast and easy. Shut down that shop in 1996, but still have every machine, press brake (180 ton 10 feet), 1/4 x 12 power leaf brake (both Chicago), 3/8 x 7 foot plate roll, a 1/4 x 10 foot ADIRA shear, a dozen welders (up to 400 amps, several are tig) and all kinds of other stuff spread all over the yard under open side roofing (tropics, central America) for convenience to not have to move welders around, just leads. All for hobby use since '96. At least I am not bored like other retirees. Kept everything, benders, lathe, mill, drill presses. Wood shop. Perfect for any personal project. biggest hobby shop in Central america as far as I know. Maybe there are 6 or 8, maybe 10 industrial shops in all of CA that are better equipped outside the Panama Canal and large shipyard in Balboa in Panama.and maybe not that many.
Once you do some bends and figure things out, measure the ram sticking out. This is a good way to repeat bends. I wrote down a key with what ram distance gave me a certain degree. Before jd2, I used to use this bender to do 4130 tubing, just use the die smaller than your material.
@@JBRACINGinc don't get me wrong, Chicago's finest bender has done plenty for me, I even made dies to kink flat strip haha. There's a lot jd2 can't do, but stepping on the pedal and doing 2" 4130 is nice. Paid dues there too, long ass cheater bar and grip tape on the floor haha. Keep up the good work jb's garage
Nice! Ive done this trick with copper tubing before, glad to see it works on pipe. I just picked one of these benders up and it kinked the first two pieces, then tried to move the section in one inch increments. still left small kinks in the pipe. going to fill with sand now!
Thank you for the tip. I will definitely be using this soon. Glad I’m catching your start up on the cart build because I am fixing to do the same but bigger scale. Following for the rest of your progress.
Respectfully, I disagree. I have been using pipe benders for some 30+ years and I tried all this nonsense, wasting my time and the mess with sand, now I find it very simple to get good bends, and I even build roll cages for race cars with a pipe bender. No kinks, no waves, the rules don't allow that anyway. First, the dies must be spotless and polished. Many are supplied with as cast rough finish, get a flappy sanding disc out and start cleaning, doesn't take long, and that includes the 2 outer roller dies. Second, and important, the 2 outer roller dies are ALWAYS too close together. The bender in the video will need redrilling to move them straight out sideways, or even back towards the ram, or, as experienced in the video, you will run out of ram. I can't tell you how far to space them out, drill a few holes and test for yourself. On the benders that the holes don't go so far forward, I am often 2 holes further out than the manufacturer recommends, but you need to test, just know that further out is better than too close together. I don't know what's wrong with the makers of them, it's like they don't test them themselves. Just some other tips, if you don't mind the mess, use some oil or talcum powder, to allow the tube to slide through the dies as it needs to, rather than the die's surface gripping onto it.
Yes, polishing the rollers and dies are also important I believe so you don't have any binding. But I do believe the sand would help to keep your tubing from kinking. I heard that many times especially when using the small hand held benders you bend brake line or very small diameter tubing.
@@todds5956 No need, as I said the secret is in polished dies and spacing the rollers wider than you think. I have pictures in a forum I am in, can't remember which one, if I remember I will post the link later.
I tried this today. It worked with out to much trouble. A couple this I added where. I buffed all of the paint out of the die, noteched a center line mark in, applyed a little axle grease to the die itself and warmed up the pipe with a torch. No flat spots at all.
I have one couldn't find it at the time so I used the next best thing, but I just bought a digital angle finder, you can put it on one and multiply the degrees by 2 and that is the total amount. So if you bend it to 45 degrees on one end it will be 90 total. It's pretty slick.
I use and re use sheet metal piece to buffer out the die. That way the radius is right and it fills in the loose spots. You can add more sheets if needed. I get perfect bends and no sand, just move the pins in tighter to the next tighter holes.
Can I get some opinions on which bender is **better** for making motorcycle/ebike frames? This one or the hand wheel rolling one at HF? I see people buying the roller one but have to by the Swag Off-Road upgrades to make it work like a "$1000 bender" as some have claimed.
Yes. I recently watched a similar video about the same product. Sand DOES help. However, putting 1inch LATTERAL marks along the pipe, and then bending an equal amount along those one inch marks, allows bending without any pinches and without the use of sand.
I did try that method and found it to leave little dents in the pipe, the sand method makes a clean uniform bend in the pipe, but that's just my experience with it.
Try the other type of bender that uses a bottle jack where the jack pushes against one side of the die bottom and rotates the die with the pipe end held by a u shaped strap bending it around the die as the jack rotates the die thru about 45° as the jack extends. Obviously this type while somewhat similar to yours takes some repositioning in a multi step process to achieve anything beyond 45° or so. A little oil on the pipe and die, packed with sand, perhaps a little warming with a torch? Basically some experimentation in the search for the highest quality bends repeatedly.
I wonder if a person wet the sand while in the tube, if it would make it absolutely compacted and therefore more effective as a stabilizer for/in the pipe?
I don’t own one yet but I do know 3/4 sch 40 is 1” OD should the bender be set up for pipe od? Or id? Again I don’t own one does the instructions specify?
Hello! I appreciate your video. The sand helped me bend a schedule 10 pipe! I do have a tip!. The dies have a couple of holes! Is you bend it past the top frame plate and clear the holes. You will have a perfect 90°
About to build a hard tail bobber with my son. I'm going to use your method because I can't move the pipe during the bending process and these results look better anyway. Sounds like a little patience and prep work are the key to good looking bends.
Normally I set the bender on a stand I made for numerous metal fabrication. Basically a spare tire/wheel and a 3" pipe welded to it and a 6" square piece welded to the top. Not a work of art but it works. You can then bolt down the bender vertically, set a level to check. then simply use an angle finder and double the number you see and you have it. Haven't had to use the sand trick yet but it is said to work fine if needed. Want to make some Tubing spacers and a saddle back to bend some steel tube that needs to be sharper than my HF tubing roller can do.
Instead of a sand inside the pipe, you could also heat the pipe where the bending place is. You could heat it really quick with a gas and then it shouldn't kink the pipe when you bend it. And not only that, when you heat it, the pipe will not be tensed neither.
it helps if you do like 10-15 pumps then move pipe up an inch or 2 do another 10-15 pumps move pipe up inch or 2 repeat .... will keep the pipe from crushing/kinking . the hf benders work just have to be smart with it . small 90 degree radius bends are a issue ..
I tried that technique and it does work but when i did it i got small dents/kinks on the inside of the bend. I also wanted smaller 90 degree bends for what I'm working on and smooth bends. This was the best way that I have found to achieve that.
Looks like your doing a good job! I’m glad I seen this! In my backyard I have a four step precast concrete steps! This weekend I’m going to buy a bender! I want a railing for my friends and family! Hopefully it will make it so they feel safe! I had forgotten about sand in pipe! Thank you! Hopefully that suggestion will help me!
One trick I saw an old timer do was as follows. Tape bottom of pipe Fill with sand, tap a bit to get it to settle and add more sand. Pour a cup or two of water onto the sand in the pipe until you have leaks out the bottom. Tap a far bit and refill with sand. Add water and repeat until its full-full. Tape the other end and bend. Or simpler just add sand and tap and ram the sand until its packed well. Would add water just in case you can get some more settling.
@@JBRACINGinc hi sir thanks for showing us how it works, can you please tell me if it can bend 2" in pipe 1/8 thick? i want to buy it but idk if it will work thanks you.
Thank you so much man. I bought this bender marked down (returned item) and I was worried it was junk. Seemed like a pretty simple design though, so I wasn't convinced anything was wrong. I saw your video and found technique was the problem -- of course! You're a lifesaver 🫡
Never had to use sand with mine, had it for 30 years, makes perfect radius's, no sand. I think you may have started with the wrong die? It doesn't look like your material actually fits the die. Right material?
I did a 90 first try just take your time and move the pipe back or forward like no more then 1/2in or less like 1/4 pump again and I only had to do that once for 90 but might need to do it more often for tighter bends. for 1in and bigger your going to want to by some pipe cut in half horizontally rest the tube in your cut pipe and bend I.D matches the OD of tube to super to make a sleeve or even weld your own die with pipe
If you are determined to spend time on sand to save time on multiple bends, freeze plugs are helpful. Really though, fuck sand, move your pipe a half inch every 12 pumps and you will get a nice bend in far less time with no mess. Use a level or mark a line down one side to keep each bend straight withthe next
What kind of pipe is that? how thick is the pipe's wall? would be nice if u provided the link to that pipe bender. Wouldn't the sand push out the duct tape as the pipe bends?
This morning I’ve been trying to bend 2” exhaust pipe with the 16 ton harbor freight jack. I used packed sand, and it totally kinked. On a 2nd try moving the pipe around , still pretty bad. It’s hard to learn when the pipe costs so much to practice on, and it doesn’t seem possible to turn the pipe over and unbend it.
Good info. Unfortunately silica sand is outlawed in Ohio where I live. My brother works for an industrial sandblastong recycle manufacturer and even they're not allowed to use it anymore.
Quikrete sells "playground sand" advertised for children's sandboxes which is silica sand. They should be in prison for continuing to expose unknowing families to this stuff. Their Safety Data Sheet even lists the known potential for silicosis of the lungs. www.quikrete.com/pdfs/msds-b4-playsand.pdf
How much was the pipe bender and could you buy bigger dyes ya know something a long the lines of two-three inches or is one inch the biggest dye that pipe bender can use
I bought this for around $60 during harbor freights Labor Day weekend sale. The biggest dye that comes with it is 2 inch, I'm not sure if you can get bigger dyes for this
@@JBRACINGinc You would not want bigger than 2"/50mm dies. You probably would not be able to bend it unless it was very thin walled. I've had tubing bent in the Middle East with sand and that is exactly how they did it. It's been working since there was steel tube. The real problem is the size of the die. You need a minimum radius and that increases exponentially with tube diameter. The common method of increasing the die diameter without actually getting a bigger die is spreading the load. Mark the tube in .5" or 1" increments and bend a little bit, shift to the next mark, bend a little bit, shift again...repeat as necessary. What you are doing is increasing the radius of the bend that way. You might still get little waves on the inside but very minor. Best of luck!
Could you heat the pipe up first with a cutting torch then bend it or is that not how it’s supposed to be done , I have bent black pipe around stuff that was in my way and I didn’t have room to turn a fitting to make an offset do I just heated the pipe up until it turned cherry red then carefully with welding gloves on I used the hole in the pipe vice for bending conduit and made a 45 degree offset with a 2 inch travel piece then bent another 45 degree offset back to the original direction I was going
JB's GARAGE ok was just curious I’m a plumber/heating mechanic and was interested in a pipe bender but it’s not real straight forward and seems like more of an art which takes a long time to become halfway decent...
Here’s a tip, use a piece of tig wire or a welding rod for an angle gauge. Bend the wire to the angle that you desire for your pipe and just use it for a go/no go gauge as you’re bending.
How is that done? Not doubting you. I truly want to know how to do that.
@@hipairbrush1053 I cannot explain it any better than I just did in the comment that you replied to. If you can’t figure that out then maybe you shouldn’t even be messing with this stuff.
Bro u just saved the day in my case I appreciate that!
That is a good idea. Also, it may be worthwhile to draw a line along the pipe with chalk or other colour that will stand out on the pipe, and this will help to use the square / wire angle, to easily see how the angle is shaping up on the bender
Good tip thanks
Your guess is spot on! Using the bigger die puts all the force on one spot allowing walls to collapse. Where as the smaller die buts force on at least two points both of which are where the collapsing of the walls would have started thus preventing the kinks from ever starting. Good find!
Watched part 2 of independent suspension build and was gonna ask you a few questions. Clicked on ur page and you answered EVERYTHING in this video....thank you!! I was certain that, if I start doing these builds, I'd be stalled with a thousand dollar tubing bender I can't afford. But apparently this CAN be done. Might take a little longer, but I'm 50....time I HAVE, lol! Thank you 👍
Glad to help, just take your time with it and it will work for ya.
Amazing how the most simplest ideas can be such brilliant solutions. Thank you so much for showing us this.
No problem
Not a bad result probably the best I've seen without a lot of faffing about or forking out for a JD2 bender .thanks
I’ve been using harbor freight bender for like 2 years . What I use is a map torch heat up the metal a lil no kinks at all . Also don’t even bother using this bender if you’re thinking of bending lightweight materials , it will just kink and the 2 metal rollers leaves a little mark on the tube . So use at lease 1/8 thick tubing 🤙🏽
Think it would work on stainless 7/8" boat railing? I can put cardboard down so as not to scratch.
I have a SuperEgo (high quality Spanish made) bender. Had it since around 1988. I have never had the crimping problem but the bending shoes are a snug fit on sch 40 pipe. there is no play and they have to be lightly hammered off after a deep bend, good quality and snug dies. cost around $500 (special price) in '88. I used it 6 years in a fab shop I owned, the guys made shoes (liners) to fit inside the sch 40 dies to fit tubing snugly for no kink bending of thinner wall tube. With stainless thin wall we often used sand. We bent thick wall aluminum with it for tuna towers on sport fishing boats. I had them make up a different set up, two 6 foot or so long slightly bent and reinforced steel channels (one greater radius, the other less) and used them on the floor with a porta jack to bend slight camber in the tubes for canvas covered tower roofs, that was easter than roll bending, faster and always uniform. we had an angle plate bolted to the floor for the jack base and two vertical pipes on each side about a foot outside the die for wood blocks to rotate on to hold the pipe ends. The depth of the chord on the shoes (dies0 is about 18'' on one and 2 feet on the other. Jacking until the pipe came totally in contact with the die and stopping right there gave repeatable uniform curves. Fast and easy. Shut down that shop in 1996, but still have every machine, press brake (180 ton 10 feet), 1/4 x 12 power leaf brake (both Chicago), 3/8 x 7 foot plate roll, a 1/4 x 10 foot ADIRA shear, a dozen welders (up to 400 amps, several are tig) and all kinds of other stuff spread all over the yard under open side roofing (tropics, central America) for convenience to not have to move welders around, just leads. All for hobby use since '96. At least I am not bored like other retirees. Kept everything, benders, lathe, mill, drill presses. Wood shop. Perfect for any personal project. biggest hobby shop in Central america as far as I know. Maybe there are 6 or 8, maybe 10 industrial shops in all of CA that are better equipped outside the Panama Canal and large shipyard in Balboa in Panama.and maybe not that many.
Once you do some bends and figure things out, measure the ram sticking out. This is a good way to repeat bends. I wrote down a key with what ram distance gave me a certain degree. Before jd2, I used to use this bender to do 4130 tubing, just use the die smaller than your material.
measuring the ram is a big time saver and is something i started to do after this video. maybe someday ill grow up and get a jd2...
@@JBRACINGinc don't get me wrong, Chicago's finest bender has done plenty for me, I even made dies to kink flat strip haha. There's a lot jd2 can't do, but stepping on the pedal and doing 2" 4130 is nice. Paid dues there too, long ass cheater bar and grip tape on the floor haha. Keep up the good work jb's garage
thanks man
Nice! Ive done this trick with copper tubing before, glad to see it works on pipe. I just picked one of these benders up and it kinked the first two pieces, then tried to move the section in one inch increments. still left small kinks in the pipe. going to fill with sand now!
Thank you for the tip. I will definitely be using this soon. Glad I’m catching your start up on the cart build because I am fixing to do the same but bigger scale. Following for the rest of your progress.
I noticed he's using pipes for his go kart build. I thought tubing would be more appropriate..?
Thank you for this tip! I struggled to bend before this video!
Exactly where I am at. Brilliant. Thank You😊
The trick to no kinks is keeping the sides of the pipe or tubing from blowing out. It you can do that you have won. Great job and cool project.
thank you bro, saved me a lot of money on my projects!
Thanks for the video and sacrificing that 3/4" pipe to show what and what not to do. I'm picking up one of these next week just to do a small project.
thanks for watching and good luck with your project
Very nice informative demonstration video
Respectfully, I disagree. I have been using pipe benders for some 30+ years and I tried all this nonsense, wasting my time and the mess with sand, now I find it very simple to get good bends, and I even build roll cages for race cars with a pipe bender. No kinks, no waves, the rules don't allow that anyway.
First, the dies must be spotless and polished. Many are supplied with as cast rough finish, get a flappy sanding disc out and start cleaning, doesn't take long, and that includes the 2 outer roller dies.
Second, and important, the 2 outer roller dies are ALWAYS too close together. The bender in the video will need redrilling to move them straight out sideways, or even back towards the ram, or, as experienced in the video, you will run out of ram.
I can't tell you how far to space them out, drill a few holes and test for yourself. On the benders that the holes don't go so far forward, I am often 2 holes further out than the manufacturer recommends, but you need to test, just know that further out is better than too close together. I don't know what's wrong with the makers of them, it's like they don't test them themselves.
Just some other tips, if you don't mind the mess, use some oil or talcum powder, to allow the tube to slide through the dies as it needs to, rather than the die's surface gripping onto it.
Yes, polishing the rollers and dies are also important I believe so you don't have any binding. But I do believe the sand would help to keep your tubing from kinking. I heard that many times especially when using the small hand held benders you bend brake line or very small diameter tubing.
Probably not practical for a home builder who's building one thing. The bending machine will cost as much as the whole project.
Do you buy chance have a vid of your method? Thanks.
@@todds5956 No need, as I said the secret is in polished dies and spacing the rollers wider than you think. I have pictures in a forum I am in, can't remember which one, if I remember I will post the link later.
I tried this today. It worked with out to much trouble. A couple this I added where. I buffed all of the paint out of the die, noteched a center line mark in, applyed a little axle grease to the die itself and warmed up the pipe with a torch. No flat spots at all.
Good explanation!
they look like some pretty nice ,kink free bends !!!
Love to learn thank you
Thanks for the tip, gona give it a try.
Good luck
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm going to do a similar project and I was wondering how to bend the pipe without kinking it.
I used to use a piece of fence pipe ripped down the center to go over top of pipe I was bending and had pretty good results.
Good job on the go-cart frame. And given what I'm observing, you definitely know what you're doing.
Thanks bud
Try using a large framing square on the heel side (outside corner) for checking 90 degree bends, easy and accurate
I have one couldn't find it at the time so I used the next best thing, but I just bought a digital angle finder, you can put it on one and multiply the degrees by 2 and that is the total amount. So if you bend it to 45 degrees on one end it will be 90 total. It's pretty slick.
I use and re use sheet metal piece to buffer out the die. That way the radius is right and it fills in the loose spots. You can add more sheets if needed. I get perfect bends and no sand, just move the pins in tighter to the next tighter holes.
nice tip. thanks man
thanks fore a great tipp!
Can I get some opinions on which bender is **better** for making motorcycle/ebike frames? This one or the hand wheel rolling one at HF? I see people buying the roller one but have to by the Swag Off-Road upgrades to make it work like a "$1000 bender" as some have claimed.
Exactly
That’s a old school trick my pops taught me
Common sense prevails
Yes. I recently watched a similar video about the same product. Sand DOES help.
However, putting 1inch LATTERAL marks along the pipe, and then bending an equal amount along those one inch marks, allows bending without any pinches and without the use of sand.
I did try that method and found it to leave little dents in the pipe, the sand method makes a clean uniform bend in the pipe, but that's just my experience with it.
Try the other type of bender that uses a bottle jack where the jack pushes against one side of the die bottom and rotates the die with the pipe end held by a u shaped strap bending it around the die as the jack rotates the die thru about 45° as the jack extends. Obviously this type while somewhat similar to yours takes some repositioning in a multi step process to achieve anything beyond 45° or so. A little oil on the pipe and die, packed with sand, perhaps a little warming with a torch? Basically some experimentation in the search for the highest quality bends repeatedly.
Times 2 on the large framing square on the outside of the bend. H-F, around 10 dollars, bright yellow, can't miss them. Good luck.
I wonder if a person wet the sand while in the tube, if it would make it absolutely compacted and therefore more effective as a stabilizer for/in the pipe?
Cool video great tips
FYI Crisco cooking grease lubing outside of your dyes helps too. Cheap, not expensive.
Mantap bang..makasi tipsnya 😁👍👍
Believe it or not flower works really good it packs tighter.
I don’t own one yet but I do know 3/4 sch 40 is 1” OD should the bender be set up for pipe od? Or id? Again I don’t own one does the instructions specify?
Hello! I appreciate your video. The sand helped me bend a schedule 10 pipe! I do have a tip!.
The dies have a couple of holes! Is you bend it past the top frame plate and clear the holes. You will have a perfect 90°
Thanks for the video...
No problem bud
About to build a hard tail bobber with my son. I'm going to use your method because I can't move the pipe during the bending process and these results look better anyway. Sounds like a little patience and prep work are the key to good looking bends.
Absolutely take your time and bend the pipe slowly and you shouldn't have any problems
Normally I set the bender on a stand I made for numerous metal fabrication. Basically a spare tire/wheel and a 3" pipe welded to it and a 6" square piece welded to the top. Not a work of art but it works. You can then bolt down the bender vertically, set a level to check. then simply use an angle finder and double the number you see and you have it. Haven't had to use the sand trick yet but it is said to work fine if needed. Want to make some Tubing spacers and a saddle back to bend some steel tube that needs to be sharper than my HF tubing roller can do.
Instead of a sand inside the pipe, you could also heat the pipe where the bending place is. You could heat it really quick with a gas and then it shouldn't kink the pipe when you bend it. And not only that, when you heat it, the pipe will not be tensed neither.
it helps if you do like 10-15 pumps then move pipe up an inch or 2 do another 10-15 pumps move pipe up inch or 2 repeat .... will keep the pipe from crushing/kinking . the hf benders work just have to be smart with it . small 90 degree radius bends are a issue ..
I tried that technique and it does work but when i did it i got small dents/kinks on the inside of the bend. I also wanted smaller 90 degree bends for what I'm working on and smooth bends. This was the best way that I have found to achieve that.
If I need to angle the left vs right once I have the angles is that possible
You can use card board or a shop floor and draw out degree increments so it can be easier than with just a square .
Thanks👍
Looks like your doing a good job! I’m glad I seen this!
In my backyard I have a four step precast concrete steps!
This weekend I’m going to buy a bender! I want a railing for my friends and family!
Hopefully it will make it so they feel safe!
I had forgotten about sand in pipe! Thank you! Hopefully that suggestion will help me!
thanks for sharing
Thanks brother
kinda makes you wonder if using the sand is of any use I know its good for thin sidewall pipes
What about .095", 1" od tubing (go-kart frame)?
someone can tell me if it bend a 2" in pipe 1/8 thick? please im going to buy it 2morrow but i dont want to buy it if it doesnt 🙏
Would anyone use this pipe bender for tubing.
Thinking about making control arms.
Any comments about this would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Amazing. I need to bend 1in blk pipe to make hand rails
A carpenter square should be in your future. It's a long "L" shaped thingy!
lol ya I have one... I was too lazy to go get it out of the basement.
Could we get tight 180 bends with this?
Use a large carpenter square and measure on the outside of the bend that might help you out on your angle
One trick I saw an old timer do was as follows.
Tape bottom of pipe
Fill with sand, tap a bit to get it to settle and add more sand.
Pour a cup or two of water onto the sand in the pipe until you have leaks out the bottom.
Tap a far bit and refill with sand.
Add water and repeat until its full-full.
Tape the other end and bend.
Or simpler just add sand and tap and ram the sand until its packed well.
Would add water just in case you can get some more settling.
Nice job. If you want to make 2 bends a certain width apart, do you line up the end of the shoe, or figure out the middle?
I put a mark in the center of the shoe and then I mark the center of the bend on the pipe and line the marks up
@@JBRACINGinc hi sir thanks for showing us how it works, can you please tell me if it can bend 2" in pipe 1/8 thick?
i want to buy it but idk if it will work
thanks you.
Can’t kink if it’s full. Brilliant
I appreciate it. I buy sand tomorrow lol. I was ready to take it back...
Use diatomacious earth and ram it (not tapping on the side). Also, use some lubricant on the adapters.
Pretty cool you have a same go kart I have
4:24
"meow"
Don’t forget that metal has “bounce back” so you might have to go a couple of degrees past your target angle.
Sand isn't necessary. Bend as you go. Mark every inch of the bend you want and bend little by little. Much faster than sand.
Can't find your video
@@jeffpatnode7446 bleepin jeep did a video showing this method.
@@treychastain4686 this is good to know
Thank you so much man. I bought this bender marked down (returned item) and I was worried it was junk. Seemed like a pretty simple design though, so I wasn't convinced anything was wrong. I saw your video and found technique was the problem -- of course! You're a lifesaver 🫡
Never had to use sand with mine, had it for 30 years, makes perfect radius's, no sand. I think you may have started with the wrong die? It doesn't look like your material actually fits the die. Right material?
You can buy the individual dies from harbor freight parts people.
That's for the 12 ton bender.
What’s your advice on square tubing? Can you use this bender on square?
I haven't bent any square tubing so I can't help you out there, sorry
@@JBRACINGinc I appreciate the time you put in on my training. Thx thx!
Never had a problem with kink in one of those.
Have try 2 inch pipe?
You can get a test plug from the plumbing store
Wonder if this works on galvanized schedule 40?
I haven't tried it myself but I don't see why it wouldn't
I did a 90 first try just take your time and move the pipe back or forward like no more then 1/2in or less like 1/4 pump again and I only had to do that once for 90 but might need to do it more often for tighter bends. for 1in and bigger your going to want to by some pipe cut in half horizontally rest the tube in your cut pipe and bend I.D matches the OD of tube to super to make a sleeve or even weld your own die with pipe
If you are determined to spend time on sand to save time on multiple bends, freeze plugs are helpful. Really though, fuck sand, move your pipe a half inch every 12 pumps and you will get a nice bend in far less time with no mess. Use a level or mark a line down one side to keep each bend straight withthe next
Having a clamp that corresponds with the die will help too
I use grease on my bender so the die can slide against the pipe rather than getting bound.
great informative video. dudes like you make youtube what it is thanks
Thanks bud, glad to help
can i bend stainless with this?
What kind of pipe is that? how thick is the pipe's wall? would be nice if u provided the link to that pipe bender. Wouldn't the sand push out the duct tape as the pipe bends?
3/4 schedule 40 pipe, the duck tape holds the sand no problem
This morning I’ve been trying to bend 2” exhaust pipe with the 16 ton harbor freight jack. I used packed sand, and it totally kinked. On a 2nd try moving the pipe around , still pretty bad. It’s hard to learn when the pipe costs so much to practice on, and it doesn’t seem possible to turn the pipe over and unbend it.
You need a mandrel bender. Thick wall pipe is used in the type of bender in the video. Different then thin wall tubing.
@@rtz549 excuse me sir you think it can bend 2" in pipe 1/8 thick?
@@user-fj9go3ej4k the HF one will easily bend that.
@@rtz549 thanks for your answer sir
Thank you(I kept kinking it)
🙏💕🌎💝
Good info. Unfortunately silica sand is outlawed in Ohio where I live. My brother works for an industrial sandblastong recycle manufacturer and even they're not allowed to use it anymore.
Quikrete sells "playground sand" advertised for children's sandboxes which is silica sand. They should be in prison for continuing to expose unknowing families to this stuff. Their Safety Data Sheet even lists the known potential for silicosis of the lungs. www.quikrete.com/pdfs/msds-b4-playsand.pdf
That's embarrassing. Don't get sand in your jayjay
Enjoyed this.
As you fill with sane. have long rebar inside the pipe... and jamb and exit a bit as you go. That will give you he greatest pack.
How do you get the sand out after the bend? Just push it with the rebar? Seems like it would be too packed ...
How much was the pipe bender and could you buy bigger dyes ya know something a long the lines of two-three inches or is one inch the biggest dye that pipe bender can use
I bought this for around $60 during harbor freights Labor Day weekend sale. The biggest dye that comes with it is 2 inch, I'm not sure if you can get bigger dyes for this
@@JBRACINGinc Thank you very much harbor freight always got the deals!
@@JBRACINGinc You would not want bigger than 2"/50mm dies. You probably would not be able to bend it unless it was very thin walled. I've had tubing bent in the Middle East with sand and that is exactly how they did it. It's been working since there was steel tube. The real problem is the size of the die. You need a minimum radius and that increases exponentially with tube diameter. The common method of increasing the die diameter without actually getting a bigger die is spreading the load. Mark the tube in .5" or 1" increments and bend a little bit, shift to the next mark, bend a little bit, shift again...repeat as necessary. What you are doing is increasing the radius of the bend that way. You might still get little waves on the inside but very minor. Best of luck!
Loved the video great info. What brand silica sand did you get?
Thanks bud.. I'm using Granusil
@@JBRACINGinc Thanks for the info, can you believe they don't have this stuff in the east coast (NJ)?
you don't have that brand of sand or you don't have any silica sand on the east coast?
@@JBRACINGinc Not in hardware stores. I can try and order it from Amazon but I am unsure I will get the correct silica sand.
Well that sucks. If you can find someone in your area that does sand blasting they might be able to set you up
could you not put a carpenter's square on the outside of the pipe to see if you're at 90 degrees?
Could you heat the pipe up first with a cutting torch then bend it or is that not how it’s supposed to be done , I have bent black pipe around stuff that was in my way and I didn’t have room to turn a fitting to make an offset do I just heated the pipe up until it turned cherry red then carefully with welding gloves on I used the hole in the pipe vice for bending conduit and made a 45 degree offset with a 2 inch travel piece then bent another 45 degree offset back to the original direction I was going
Using heat with this tool will just make it easier to kink the pipe in my experience.
JB's GARAGE ok was just curious I’m a plumber/heating mechanic and was interested in a pipe bender but it’s not real straight forward and seems like more of an art which takes a long time to become halfway decent...
Definitely takes some time messing with it to get it right
good video man, you arc weld or wire?
thanks bud. I can do both but I use a 110 wire for tacking and then i finish it up with 220
The word you're all looking for is not downfall, it's drawback. Get a framing square to check right angles at that position.
Will this machine work with 3in diameter pipe
The biggest die that comes with it is 2 inch
Wasn't sure about the HF bender. You sold me on it and the sand. Hope the Go Kart is holding up well.
It’s only been wrecked 2 times so far lol
@@JBRACINGinc sounds about right.
.5 bend looks good
I'd say use a vibrating sander to pack the sand and get out any air pockets.
good
They claim it works on square tubing as well, do you think it would without kinking it?
I haven't tried it on square tubing so I don't know.