Thank you, means a lot! Takes up a lot of my time but there's not much info out there on these great cars. Running out of things to do honestly. Rear brakes will most likely be next but I am going to do a series of performance videos as well as some more tech stuff with the help of the local Audi dealership. Should be good!
Excellent stuff this is due for me this autumn (every two years). I have a water content measuring tool so, might push it to every three years. Either way, are you planning on doing a video on the 2 year service per the maintenance schedule? Only things on there that really count except reading the computer are lubricating the door hinges and the spoiler. Can send it to you if you don’t have it.
Yeah I can do that actually. I have a bottle of the magic lubricating fluid which really is special stuff. I've used it on a number of different components. Worth sharing. On the brake fluid, pick your brand based on the WET boiling point, not the dry. Naturally Castrol SRF is probably the best but expensive. A higher wet boiling point will generally allow you to go longer in between flushes. Checking the water content is a great idea and keeps you from wasting time and money.
Hi, I'm glad I came across your channel. I have the ceramic discs on my 2009 Audi S8 V10. Can you do a detailed video/guide on downgrading from a ceramic set up to an iron set up. Also, link to websites that have iron kits or anything else that I need for the downgrade. I can't justify paying over $1000 for brake pads especially as I don't track the car.
What size discs do the S8's come with originally? Your best bet would be to try www.jhmotorsports.com but if you have the 380x38mm discs, same as the Gallardo/R8, I may have another solution for you. Email me at redmistracingllc@icloud.com or visit my page, redmistracing.com
Hi I own an RS5 with the carbon ceramic brakes. I was wondering how to go about downgrading to steel brakes . Im not well versed with how to go about this . Thanks
Not easily. Did your OEM discs go bad? I actually have replacement next generation carbon ceramic discs that are track rated. They will take the higher temps and then some when you're doing track days. About half the cost of OEM CCB rotors. Link: redmistracing.com/ols/products/audi-r8-surface-transform-cfrc-rotors-rs5-hurican-gallardo-lamborghini Can contact me, sales@redmistracing.com and I have one set in stock. Other than that, your best bet is to swap to the 8-piston caliper (inferior) and run a 380mm iron rotor. A 380x38mm iron rotor will be close to 40 pounds a piece and I would not recommend going that route.
Hello, I have standard RS5 brembo brakes that makes such amount of noise when step softly the brake most of the time. I was thinking on moving towards another type of system such as girodisc with Hawk pads but when to check ceramic option too and found that ceramic system is just for the front , right? I saw you have standard on the back , am I right?? What is the pads that you use on the front and what pads in the back? Does it make noise too on the back? Thanks
Usually squeaking is a sign the brakes are working but it can also be a sign the pads weren't bedded in correctly. I don't have the bed-in procedure for the iron discs and OEM pads in front of me but there's probably info over on the Audizine forum. With that said, many RS5 owners seem to like the Hawk 5.0 pads with either the OEM discs or aftermarket. ECS Tuning makes a great set of full floating rotors in either the OEM size or with an increase in diameter and a spacer for the caliper. JH Motorsports makes a semi-floating set, either OEM diameter or larger with bracket, which are a bit more cost effective and are a really solid option. Girodisc is also a great option as is racingbrakes. Pads is a fairly personal thing. I personally like Carbotech as their track pads are compatible with their street pad, the 1521. I also really like Pagid pads and I will most likely try their RSC2 pad when I change out the OEM ceramic-specific pads in the future. The RS5 did have a ceramic option and yes, it was the fronts only. It's the Porsche 19Z caliper with the 380mm by 38mm carbon ceramic disc. This is the same setup found on everything from the Audi R8 to the Lamborghini Hurican Performante. You can retrofit them and have to code it with a Ross-Tech VCDS as there's a "wipe" function where the pistons periodically wipe the carbon ceramic rotor dry periodically when it rains. There's also an RS6 rear carbon ceramic disc retrofit but I don't have exact details. Hope that helps!
It's necessary to add fluid at about 30psi to get the ABS valves to open. In order to get the system pressurized that high, you need a cap that seals on top of the reservoir. Motive sells caps that fit various makes and models.
Correct, they don't have the scalloped edge. Honestly it does nothing but remove swept area anyway, really just a cosmetic thing. The CCB rotors are also substantially larger than the iron rotors yet are half the weight.
@@RS5Fanatic I just bought an RS5 and it has ceramics ands I noticed the rear had wavy rotors and the fronts didn't thats why I figured something was up. Also love your channel super informative! I hope you don't mind me asking you RS5 related stuff. You obviously know your stuff. Would I be able to email you?
@@Matt-nv5qe If you want to go from CCB to steel, it's just the rotors. The CCB calipers will work with both. ECS Tuning makes a replacement 380mm x38mm iron rotor which works with the CCB calipers. It's bolt-on. Now to go from iron to CCB, you'd obviously need everything, calipers, rotors, pads, coding, possibly the master cylinder/brake booster and a really big pile of cash.
@@Matt-nv5qe If you want to go from CCB to steel, it's just the rotors. The CCB calipers will work with both. ECS Tuning makes a replacement 380mm x38mm iron rotor which works with the CCB calipers. It's bolt-on. Now to go from iron to CCB, you'd obviously need everything, calipers, rotors, pads, coding, possibly the master cylinder/brake booster and a really big pile of cash.
If you use a pressure bleeder over 30psi, the micro valves are open inside the ABS unit. You can do it without a pressure bleeder (the old fashioned way with someone slowly pumping the brake pedal to build up pressure) as well as described in the FSM and there is no mention of cycling the ABS module at all.
RS5 Fanatic I normally use a Venturi brake bleed kit with a air line. Or just a bottle with s check valve. But if what your saying is true about the abs then a check valve bottle should be fine.
Yep, a bottle with a check valve is fine, just make sure the tubing is on the end the bleeder nipple firmly and it doesn't leak. Just crack it open a hair and obviously have someone else in the driver's seat pumping the brake. When they press down on the brake pedal, make sure they do it slowly otherwise they could introduce air into the system. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is filled to the top and make sure it does not go dry when bleeding. It's easier with a pressurized system as one person can do it. Sometimes if you loosen the bleed screw and cock it to the side a bit, it'll prevent air from flowing back in. I've tried to find what's referred to as a speed bleeder but there doesn't appear to be one that's off the shelf compatible and I have not researched the bleed screw size or thread pitch. Speed bleeders are the best.
Depends...if there's demand for the new next gen carbon rotors I'm bringing to market from the RS7 community, then their rear rotor setup bolts right on to the RS5. I probably won't do an iron BBK due to the associated weight increase. As the car sits now, braking is exceptional. It'll only get better once I add the new front rotors.
@@RS5Fanatic I’m looking at doing the R8 calliper and Tesla S park brake conversion. There are adapter kits to get but I’m thinking of just making my own. If it’s real weight your looming at saving, get rid of the OEM seats and get a set of carbon fibre RECARO seats.
@@muckman5509 Voshmod rear brake kit. He lives just up the road from me! Good kit and worth the money. The new rotors I'm bringing to market, for the rear, if we did a conversion, would be about 8 pounds, maybe less, and use the RS7 rear caliper.
@@chrisd6736 More like 150K miles. Cost to replace is high if you damage one or they wear out. But...there are services which offer reconditioning and re-impregnate the resins into the disc. Cost is about $1800 for two discs which isn't that bad considering that's what high performance (AP Racing, Brembo) iron rotors cost. They can wear out quickly if you track the car often.
That's actually really easy and honestly, it wasn't worth a video. But...I will be changing my fluid again shortly. If you'd like a bit of writeup with photos, go here: forums.audirevolution.net/t/full-s-tronic-and-rear-sport-differential-service-rs5/10268
It was 31 degrees outside the garage and probably 50 inside. Happens when it's cold and it can't physically come off without loosening the clasp. It's my zombie apocalypse beater watch. About as rugged as they come and never needs a battery. But glad you enjoyed the video.
You can cycle the ABS and various pumps with the Ross-Tech VCDS or factory computer and I did do this. Does not completely eliminate trapped air however. Only addendum I would make is to just top off the reservoir and NOT use the pressure bleeder to store the fluid. It's slower but it seems to inject less air that way for some reason.
Just to clarify, you're talking about running the output tests which checks the ABS unit and valves at all four corners. That isn't designed as a brake bleed procedure but it can help if you have some stubborn micro air bubbles trapped in the ABS valve body.
Really appreciate your videos and channel. Keep up the amazing content!!!
Thank you, means a lot! Takes up a lot of my time but there's not much info out there on these great cars. Running out of things to do honestly. Rear brakes will most likely be next but I am going to do a series of performance videos as well as some more tech stuff with the help of the local Audi dealership. Should be good!
Excellent stuff this is due for me this autumn (every two years). I have a water content measuring tool so, might push it to every three years. Either way, are you planning on doing a video on the 2 year service per the maintenance schedule? Only things on there that really count except reading the computer are lubricating the door hinges and the spoiler. Can send it to you if you don’t have it.
Yeah I can do that actually. I have a bottle of the magic lubricating fluid which really is special stuff. I've used it on a number of different components. Worth sharing.
On the brake fluid, pick your brand based on the WET boiling point, not the dry. Naturally Castrol SRF is probably the best but expensive. A higher wet boiling point will generally allow you to go longer in between flushes. Checking the water content is a great idea and keeps you from wasting time and money.
is it necessary to use a two tube method on the front brakes? Can it be done with just one tube with that catch can/container?
Hi, I'm glad I came across your channel. I have the ceramic discs on my 2009 Audi S8 V10. Can you do a detailed video/guide on downgrading from a ceramic set up to an iron set up. Also, link to websites that have iron kits or anything else that I need for the downgrade. I can't justify paying over $1000 for brake pads especially as I don't track the car.
What size discs do the S8's come with originally? Your best bet would be to try www.jhmotorsports.com but if you have the 380x38mm discs, same as the Gallardo/R8, I may have another solution for you. Email me at redmistracingllc@icloud.com or visit my page, redmistracing.com
Hi
I own an RS5 with the carbon ceramic brakes. I was wondering how to go about downgrading to steel brakes . Im not well versed with how to go about this .
Thanks
Not easily. Did your OEM discs go bad? I actually have replacement next generation carbon ceramic discs that are track rated. They will take the higher temps and then some when you're doing track days. About half the cost of OEM CCB rotors. Link: redmistracing.com/ols/products/audi-r8-surface-transform-cfrc-rotors-rs5-hurican-gallardo-lamborghini Can contact me, sales@redmistracing.com and I have one set in stock. Other than that, your best bet is to swap to the 8-piston caliper (inferior) and run a 380mm iron rotor. A 380x38mm iron rotor will be close to 40 pounds a piece and I would not recommend going that route.
Hello, I have standard RS5 brembo brakes that makes such amount of noise when step softly the brake most of the time. I was thinking on moving towards another type of system such as girodisc with Hawk pads but when to check ceramic option too and found that ceramic system is just for the front , right? I saw you have standard on the back , am I right?? What is the pads that you use on the front and what pads in the back? Does it make noise too on the back? Thanks
Usually squeaking is a sign the brakes are working but it can also be a sign the pads weren't bedded in correctly. I don't have the bed-in procedure for the iron discs and OEM pads in front of me but there's probably info over on the Audizine forum.
With that said, many RS5 owners seem to like the Hawk 5.0 pads with either the OEM discs or aftermarket. ECS Tuning makes a great set of full floating rotors in either the OEM size or with an increase in diameter and a spacer for the caliper. JH Motorsports makes a semi-floating set, either OEM diameter or larger with bracket, which are a bit more cost effective and are a really solid option. Girodisc is also a great option as is racingbrakes.
Pads is a fairly personal thing. I personally like Carbotech as their track pads are compatible with their street pad, the 1521. I also really like Pagid pads and I will most likely try their RSC2 pad when I change out the OEM ceramic-specific pads in the future.
The RS5 did have a ceramic option and yes, it was the fronts only. It's the Porsche 19Z caliper with the 380mm by 38mm carbon ceramic disc. This is the same setup found on everything from the Audi R8 to the Lamborghini Hurican Performante. You can retrofit them and have to code it with a Ross-Tech VCDS as there's a "wipe" function where the pistons periodically wipe the carbon ceramic rotor dry periodically when it rains.
There's also an RS6 rear carbon ceramic disc retrofit but I don't have exact details. Hope that helps!
Why does the reservoir cap have a special adapter? Is the reservoir bled too?
It's necessary to add fluid at about 30psi to get the ABS valves to open. In order to get the system pressurized that high, you need a cap that seals on top of the reservoir. Motive sells caps that fit various makes and models.
Do the ceramic brakes not have the wavy rotors?
Correct, they don't have the scalloped edge. Honestly it does nothing but remove swept area anyway, really just a cosmetic thing. The CCB rotors are also substantially larger than the iron rotors yet are half the weight.
@@RS5Fanatic I just bought an RS5 and it has ceramics ands I noticed the rear had wavy rotors and the fronts didn't thats why I figured something was up. Also love your channel super informative! I hope you don't mind me asking you RS5 related stuff. You obviously know your stuff. Would I be able to email you?
@@jeremyarvay9744 Hi Adam, absolutely. sales@redmistracing.com
How many miles should you get out of your CCBs? Assuming no track days..
It’ll still vary a bit depending on usage but pads will generally go 70,000 mikes or more and rotors double that.
@@RS5Fanatic Is the process to switch to the steel rotors from the CCBs extensive? or is it just a caliper change?
@@Matt-nv5qe If you want to go from CCB to steel, it's just the rotors. The CCB calipers will work with both. ECS Tuning makes a replacement 380mm x38mm iron rotor which works with the CCB calipers. It's bolt-on. Now to go from iron to CCB, you'd obviously need everything, calipers, rotors, pads, coding, possibly the master cylinder/brake booster and a really big pile of cash.
@@Matt-nv5qe If you want to go from CCB to steel, it's just the rotors. The CCB calipers will work with both. ECS Tuning makes a replacement 380mm x38mm iron rotor which works with the CCB calipers. It's bolt-on. Now to go from iron to CCB, you'd obviously need everything, calipers, rotors, pads, coding, possibly the master cylinder/brake booster and a really big pile of cash.
Does the Workshop manual require you to bleed the ABS module ?
If you use a pressure bleeder over 30psi, the micro valves are open inside the ABS unit. You can do it without a pressure bleeder (the old fashioned way with someone slowly pumping the brake pedal to build up pressure) as well as described in the FSM and there is no mention of cycling the ABS module at all.
RS5 Fanatic I normally use a Venturi brake bleed kit with a air line. Or just a bottle with s check valve. But if what your saying is true about the abs then a check valve bottle should be fine.
Yep, a bottle with a check valve is fine, just make sure the tubing is on the end the bleeder nipple firmly and it doesn't leak. Just crack it open a hair and obviously have someone else in the driver's seat pumping the brake. When they press down on the brake pedal, make sure they do it slowly otherwise they could introduce air into the system. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is filled to the top and make sure it does not go dry when bleeding. It's easier with a pressurized system as one person can do it.
Sometimes if you loosen the bleed screw and cock it to the side a bit, it'll prevent air from flowing back in. I've tried to find what's referred to as a speed bleeder but there doesn't appear to be one that's off the shelf compatible and I have not researched the bleed screw size or thread pitch. Speed bleeders are the best.
Do you think you will ever do a big rear brake conversion ?
Depends...if there's demand for the new next gen carbon rotors I'm bringing to market from the RS7 community, then their rear rotor setup bolts right on to the RS5. I probably won't do an iron BBK due to the associated weight increase. As the car sits now, braking is exceptional. It'll only get better once I add the new front rotors.
@@RS5Fanatic I’m looking at doing the R8 calliper and Tesla S park brake conversion. There are adapter kits to get but I’m thinking of just making my own. If it’s real weight your looming at saving, get rid of the OEM seats and get a set of carbon fibre RECARO seats.
@@muckman5509 Voshmod rear brake kit. He lives just up the road from me! Good kit and worth the money. The new rotors I'm bringing to market, for the rear, if we did a conversion, would be about 8 pounds, maybe less, and use the RS7 rear caliper.
Nice video.
where did you get the red cap fitting
www.motiveproducts.com/collections/adapters/products/black-label-european-adapter
Anyone know what size the carbon ceramic discs are?
380x38mm. The Carbon discs used on the RS5 are the same part number as the R8V10+, Gallardo and Hurian CCB discs. Calipers are the same as well.
Nice I just got mine last week and I’ve never seen brakes that big in my life.
@@chrisd6736 You'lll love them. I'll never go back to iron rotors. The RS7 has even larger ceramics, I think those are 405mm.
RS5 Fanatic- ya I was worried about the cost to replace them but I’ve heard they will last like 50k miles?
@@chrisd6736 More like 150K miles. Cost to replace is high if you damage one or they wear out. But...there are services which offer reconditioning and re-impregnate the resins into the disc. Cost is about $1800 for two discs which isn't that bad considering that's what high performance (AP Racing, Brembo) iron rotors cost.
They can wear out quickly if you track the car often.
hello, you can make a video for us where you show how to change the oil of the rear differential of the RS5✌️
That's actually really easy and honestly, it wasn't worth a video. But...I will be changing my fluid again shortly. If you'd like a bit of writeup with photos, go here: forums.audirevolution.net/t/full-s-tronic-and-rear-sport-differential-service-rs5/10268
awesome video but i cringe so hard at how loose you wear your watch it's practically falling off your wrist lol
It was 31 degrees outside the garage and probably 50 inside. Happens when it's cold and it can't physically come off without loosening the clasp. It's my zombie apocalypse beater watch. About as rugged as they come and never needs a battery. But glad you enjoyed the video.
WHY AREN´T YOU TAKING THE RIGHT PROCIDURE??? BY OBD YOU CAN ACCESS THE BLEEDING FUNCTION. THAT`S THE PROPER WAY TO DO IT!
You can cycle the ABS and various pumps with the Ross-Tech VCDS or factory computer and I did do this. Does not completely eliminate trapped air however. Only addendum I would make is to just top off the reservoir and NOT use the pressure bleeder to store the fluid. It's slower but it seems to inject less air that way for some reason.
Just to clarify, you're talking about running the output tests which checks the ABS unit and valves at all four corners. That isn't designed as a brake bleed procedure but it can help if you have some stubborn micro air bubbles trapped in the ABS valve body.