Thanks, Ape! I’m hunting down a gang of faults triggering the Quattrofecta of TMPS CEL Sport Diff and Traction control and crossing my fingers it’s not a ecu short. Decided to first attempt to “throw money at” a new battery once I confirm it’s not 3 years or newer, and then cleaning the throttle bodies and replacing the map sensors and possibly the accessible knock sensors while I’m at it.
Good vid. Was pretty helpful, but didn’t match my situation perfectly. The “JBC” manufacture’s code was a helpful hint. Installing an AGM Duralast battery, and the code etched on my battery’s case was 16 digits, not 11. Though I noticed that the video had a bracket covering up the battery case right next to where the last digit of the etched part number was being shown, so I’m not convinced that bracket wasn’t covering up more digits there. But it’s been 3 years since this vid was made, so maybe JBI changed how they format their part numbers/serial numbers. I’m sure that is just used to trace it back to the build info of the battery in case it ever starts a fire in a vehicle, unless there is a battery-industry standard about how serial numbers of car batteries are supposed to be written and I haven’t found any info on that. Thanks for the vid in any case. :)
Ive had an ongoing conversation with Ape for a few months now and I can attest he is a valuable resource for the Audi community; def RS5. I have an Antigravity battery coming! Thanks again APE!
So glad this channel is around. Picked up a Duralast AGM and was able to see the barcode #'s and then the emboss in the plastic of the battery shell. It's a similar numeric string all the way out to the 9th digit. But instead of 2 more numbers, this battery has 5. I'm going to try and stop at 11. Using OBDEleven
@@CalvinNelson the steps worked fine. The code on the new battery wouldn't register, but per other videos a change in "a" value from the current code would. So I did that and everything is fine.
Is it possible to code a Bosch battery into a rs5 B8 with non stop and start or isn’t it not needed hear mix messages and some garages say impossible as it’s not the oem replacement
It depends. If it has some semblance of a BEM code, you can. You can also "fudge" one of the digits on the right 12 numerals, test it and see if it takes. If it takes, you're good to go. I would keep the type of battery and amp hours the same going the fudge route. So if there's an AGM-style battery in there now, stick with a Bosch AGM. Make sense?
Hey, thanks for making this video. I've just swapped from my original flooded batter to a new AGM battery, and coded it. However I don't see a section to change battery technology or capacity via VCDS, do you know if we need to do this and how? Thanks!
I didn't. Everything seemed to stay the same although I did not check my radio stations as I haven't listened to AM/FM in at least a decade! All the other settings were intact.
You can connect a charger or battery to the jump points under the bonnet. The positive terminals are under the plastic scuttle.panel right up against the windscreen wiper and the negative terminal is near the near side (on your right looking into the engine bay) air inlet pipe. I'll try and post a photo.
Yes and no. Chances are, if you drained your normal AGM or lead acid battery, you've damaged it's capacity to hold electricity. My battery tender went out a few months ago and I should have replaced it right away. I didn't, then the virus hit and well, no more daily drives. With an old battery on it's last legs, just took a week of not driving her to kill the battery. The good news is, if you're interested, I'm a dealer for Antigravity lightweight lithium batteries. They'll save you 45 pounds too.
I'm considering replacing my failed Bosch battery with a Yuasa. What's the manufacturer code for Yuasa battery or can I just change a digit in the serial number as mentioned?
If the Yuasa is the same amp hours and battery type (AGM or normal lead acid), and it's an OEM replacement, it'll likely have a BEM code sticker right on the battery. If it doesn't, you can either change a letter on the right 12 number/letter combo and then "test" it using the VCDS. If it accepts, you're good to go. Not sure where you're located but if you are in the U.S., I'd take a strong look at Antigravity lithium ion batteries. About 40 pounds lighter with built in jump starting. And I can get you a decent discount. sales@redmistracing.com.
Hi mate I’ve just had new battery and alternator tested and works great , just had new abs back sensor replaced and still getting these codes I cleared and there come back straight away , I’m getting stabilisation and abs check followed by parking brake malfunction followed by sport diff system fault followed by TPSM it was doing this now and again and coming up as rear abs sensor,but now it’s all the time,clear it and it comes back straight ive replaced the sensor with a Bosch one off eBay and still no good - OBD 11 scan is the following: Function limitation due to received malfunction value U111300 All wheel drive control module 01324 Left rear ABS wheel speed sensor Implausible signal 00290 Electronic parking brake control module -J540 - 00473 Brake control module 01316 Gateway static current 02256 ABS brake control module U101700 Car is a Audi RS5 B8 2011 and it’s looked after very well any ideas buddy kind regards
Try a Ross Tech VCDS. Pretty sure there's a distributor in your country. You'll want to go in and clear codes in each module STARTING with ABS. That may or may not clear it up but after doing a full scan, it'll tell you more than the OBD Eleven ever did.
Yes it will. It just won't charge the battery like a new battery, but like an old battery if that makes sense. You can get away with not coding it in for a few weeks or just disconnect the battery monitor which is a two wire plug on the negative battery terminal. Will act like a normal alternator at that point, no coding needed.
@@RS5Fanatic hi someone relplaced a varta h15 with Delkor LN5. Similar specs. But no BEM. Advice ? I can code the BEM but without it what do I do ? This was Audi Q7 2013 diesel 3.0 tdi Quattro. - BTW I just changed a digit on the serial number. Is only a change required to tell car it’s a new batt, or is there some information in the BEM which changes batt charging and sensing functions of the car ?
@@defaultHandle1110 If the old battery was dead, it's very much advisable to enter a new BEM code for the new battery. Look to see if there's a serial number on the battery case itself as well as a bar code sticker with a number below it. If the battery is listed as an OEM replacement, those numbers should work as the BEM. If not, you can do one of two things. Use the existing BEM but experiment by changing a number or letter in the SECOND group of the BEM code or find an OEM replacement battery at an auto parts store and take a photo of that battery's BEM sticker.
I used an OEM replacement battery in this video. I've since moved on and use an Antigravity Lithium Ion battery with built in re-start ( jump starting). You can order one of those through me, just reach out, sales@redmistracing.com or you can order off the website here: redmistracing.com/ols/products/audi-b885-rs5-antigravity-h6-40ah-lithium-ion-battery
You do. I'd take a hard look at the Antigravity lightweight lithium ion batteries. More expensive yes, but a massive weight loss and built-in jump starting. Contact sales@redmistracing.com and I'll get you a great price on one. See my Antigravity battery video for details.
If your old battery was worn down, then yes, you'll need to code in the new battery. Otherwise the car thinks it's charging an old, tired battery and it won't be optimized for a new, fresh battery. If you're swapping in something like an Antigravity lightweight battery (I sell those!) and your old battery was fine, probably no need to code in the new battery.
OK that's great thank you for your advice, your videos are top quality thanks again, at the moment I'm having trouble with multiple misfires iv ruled the battery out now and looking down the injector road, iv fitted new apr coil packs and new spark plugs. Any extra advice would be 🙏 cheers.
@@splaig1 Having a Ross-Tech VCDS is critical in my opinion. That'll really help diagnose issues, give you exact codes AND their causes as well as log misfires and give you a total misfire count. Injectors are not out of the realm of possibility (known issue) but I'd like to see a full scan with a VCDS to really point you in any one direction. I can also be reached by email, sales@redmistracing.com.
@RS5Fanatic A bit late. My AGM battery died. Took it out and installed a new battery (not agm). I did not do coding. Now my car does not want to start and windows not working
Thanks, Ape! I’m hunting down a gang of faults triggering the Quattrofecta of TMPS CEL Sport Diff and Traction control and crossing my fingers it’s not a ecu short. Decided to first attempt to “throw money at” a new battery once I confirm it’s not 3 years or newer, and then cleaning the throttle bodies and replacing the map sensors and possibly the accessible knock sensors while I’m at it.
Did you get to the bottom of this
Sure did! Ended up being the Map sensor. Replaced 1000 miles ago and no more issues 💪
Good vid. Was pretty helpful, but didn’t match my situation perfectly. The “JBC” manufacture’s code was a helpful hint. Installing an AGM Duralast battery, and the code etched on my battery’s case was 16 digits, not 11. Though I noticed that the video had a bracket covering up the battery case right next to where the last digit of the etched part number was being shown, so I’m not convinced that bracket wasn’t covering up more digits there. But it’s been 3 years since this vid was made, so maybe JBI changed how they format their part numbers/serial numbers. I’m sure that is just used to trace it back to the build info of the battery in case it ever starts a fire in a vehicle, unless there is a battery-industry standard about how serial numbers of car batteries are supposed to be written and I haven’t found any info on that. Thanks for the vid in any case. :)
replacing my RS5 battery today, this video turned out to be a godsend. Thanks for putting it together!
Ive had an ongoing conversation with Ape for a few months now and I can attest he is a valuable resource for the Audi community; def RS5. I have an Antigravity battery coming! Thanks again APE!
Most welcome sir!
Would be interesting to see coding for lightweight lithium battery.
Perfect timing! Will have that info in the next video which'll be out shortly.
So glad this channel is around. Picked up a Duralast AGM and was able to see the barcode #'s and then the emboss in the plastic of the battery shell. It's a similar numeric string all the way out to the 9th digit. But instead of 2 more numbers, this battery has 5. I'm going to try and stop at 11. Using OBDEleven
How did this turnout using OBDEleven?
@@CalvinNelson the steps worked fine. The code on the new battery wouldn't register, but per other videos a change in "a" value from the current code would. So I did that and everything is fine.
Picked up my 2013 RS5 yesterday. Gonna be using your vids to do some minor maintenance.
Congrats! Be sure to join us over at AudiRevolution. Lots of RS5 owners there and very positive environment. forums.audirevolution.net/c/a5-s5-rs5/13
@@RS5Fanatic i did: username AmaruqRS5
Do you need to add a back up battery under bonnet before removing the old battery or not ?
You do not.
Is it possible to code a Bosch battery into a rs5 B8 with non stop and start or isn’t it not needed hear mix messages and some garages say impossible as it’s not the oem replacement
It depends. If it has some semblance of a BEM code, you can. You can also "fudge" one of the digits on the right 12 numerals, test it and see if it takes. If it takes, you're good to go. I would keep the type of battery and amp hours the same going the fudge route. So if there's an AGM-style battery in there now, stick with a Bosch AGM. Make sense?
Hey, thanks for making this video. I've just swapped from my original flooded batter to a new AGM battery, and coded it. However I don't see a section to change battery technology or capacity via VCDS, do you know if we need to do this and how? Thanks!
The code itself tells the BMS what type and size of battery you installed so you should be good to go.
@@RS5Fanatic Thanks for the info!
As always, thanks for the great RS5 content!
Thanks Simon!
Great instructions. How did you keep power to the accessories when you disconnected the battery?
I didn't. Everything seemed to stay the same although I did not check my radio stations as I haven't listened to AM/FM in at least a decade! All the other settings were intact.
You can connect a charger or battery to the jump points under the bonnet. The positive terminals are under the plastic scuttle.panel right up against the windscreen wiper and the negative terminal is near the near side (on your right looking into the engine bay) air inlet pipe. I'll try and post a photo.
Feels like I'm taking college courses all over again very well said.👍👍
Nice vid thanks for the info
Great! Mine just went flat. Can they be recharged?
Yes and no. Chances are, if you drained your normal AGM or lead acid battery, you've damaged it's capacity to hold electricity. My battery tender went out a few months ago and I should have replaced it right away. I didn't, then the virus hit and well, no more daily drives. With an old battery on it's last legs, just took a week of not driving her to kill the battery. The good news is, if you're interested, I'm a dealer for Antigravity lightweight lithium batteries. They'll save you 45 pounds too.
Love your content!
Keep it up
where did you get jcb from?
JCB?
@@RS5Fanatic in your new code yiu put jcb12 before the second code group, where does that part of it come from
Ah, there's a list of codes for each battery maker and JCB was the code for my particular battery.
I'm considering replacing my failed Bosch battery with a Yuasa. What's the manufacturer code for Yuasa battery or can I just change a digit in the serial number as mentioned?
If the Yuasa is the same amp hours and battery type (AGM or normal lead acid), and it's an OEM replacement, it'll likely have a BEM code sticker right on the battery. If it doesn't, you can either change a letter on the right 12 number/letter combo and then "test" it using the VCDS. If it accepts, you're good to go. Not sure where you're located but if you are in the U.S., I'd take a strong look at Antigravity lithium ion batteries. About 40 pounds lighter with built in jump starting. And I can get you a decent discount. sales@redmistracing.com.
Awesome video thank you so much Michel!!!! 🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤
Hi mate I’ve just had new battery and alternator tested and works great , just had new abs back sensor replaced and still getting these codes I cleared and there come back straight away , I’m getting stabilisation and abs check followed by parking brake malfunction followed by sport diff system fault followed by TPSM it was doing this now and again and coming up as rear abs sensor,but now it’s all the time,clear it and it comes back straight ive replaced the sensor with a Bosch one off eBay and still no good - OBD 11 scan is the following:
Function limitation due to received malfunction value U111300
All wheel drive control module
01324
Left rear ABS wheel speed sensor
Implausible signal 00290
Electronic parking brake control module -J540 - 00473
Brake control module 01316
Gateway static current 02256
ABS brake control module U101700
Car is a Audi RS5 B8 2011 and it’s looked after very well any ideas buddy kind regards
Try a Ross Tech VCDS. Pretty sure there's a distributor in your country. You'll want to go in and clear codes in each module STARTING with ABS. That may or may not clear it up but after doing a full scan, it'll tell you more than the OBD Eleven ever did.
@ thanks mate
Will the car still start even if you don’t do the coding?
Yes it will. It just won't charge the battery like a new battery, but like an old battery if that makes sense. You can get away with not coding it in for a few weeks or just disconnect the battery monitor which is a two wire plug on the negative battery terminal. Will act like a normal alternator at that point, no coding needed.
hi, I bought a VARTA 95ah 850a G14 AGM battery for my RS5, but I don't have the BEM code. can you help me?
It should be right on the battery itself!
@@RS5Fanatic hi someone relplaced a varta h15 with Delkor LN5. Similar specs. But no BEM. Advice ? I can code the BEM but without it what do I do ? This was Audi Q7 2013 diesel 3.0 tdi Quattro. - BTW I just changed a digit on the serial number. Is only a change required to tell car it’s a new batt, or is there some information in the BEM which changes batt charging and sensing functions of the car ?
@@defaultHandle1110 If the old battery was dead, it's very much advisable to enter a new BEM code for the new battery. Look to see if there's a serial number on the battery case itself as well as a bar code sticker with a number below it. If the battery is listed as an OEM replacement, those numbers should work as the BEM. If not, you can do one of two things. Use the existing BEM but experiment by changing a number or letter in the SECOND group of the BEM code or find an OEM replacement battery at an auto parts store and take a photo of that battery's BEM sticker.
Which Battery exactly is this? And after having it for a while do you still rec it?
I used an OEM replacement battery in this video. I've since moved on and use an Antigravity Lithium Ion battery with built in re-start ( jump starting). You can order one of those through me, just reach out, sales@redmistracing.com or you can order off the website here: redmistracing.com/ols/products/audi-b885-rs5-antigravity-h6-40ah-lithium-ion-battery
What brand rims?
If you’re using an OEM Audi replacement battery, do you still need to do the re-coding?
You do. I'd take a hard look at the Antigravity lightweight lithium ion batteries. More expensive yes, but a massive weight loss and built-in jump starting. Contact sales@redmistracing.com and I'll get you a great price on one. See my Antigravity battery video for details.
Hi do you need to code the new battery if its like for like oem?
Thanks.
If your old battery was worn down, then yes, you'll need to code in the new battery. Otherwise the car thinks it's charging an old, tired battery and it won't be optimized for a new, fresh battery. If you're swapping in something like an Antigravity lightweight battery (I sell those!) and your old battery was fine, probably no need to code in the new battery.
OK that's great thank you for your advice, your videos are top quality thanks again, at the moment I'm having trouble with multiple misfires iv ruled the battery out now and looking down the injector road, iv fitted new apr coil packs and new spark plugs. Any extra advice would be 🙏 cheers.
@@splaig1 Having a Ross-Tech VCDS is critical in my opinion. That'll really help diagnose issues, give you exact codes AND their causes as well as log misfires and give you a total misfire count. Injectors are not out of the realm of possibility (known issue) but I'd like to see a full scan with a VCDS to really point you in any one direction. I can also be reached by email, sales@redmistracing.com.
@RS5Fanatic A bit late. My AGM battery died. Took it out and installed a new battery (not agm). I did not do coding. Now my car does not want to start and windows not working
It keeps rejecting it
If you have the same size battery I do, you can actually use the BEM code from this video, either my old or new BEM code and it should work.
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