Відео

You had it right the first time. Change the MTF fluid first, do not drain the ATF fluid yet. Full MTF fluid change, check the level on the MTF side then move to the ATF side. If you do the ATF side first, the transmission is hot by the time you're done and it'll affect how much MTF fluid you can pump in with the car flat. By doing the MTF side first, you're working with a cold transmission until you move to the ATF side and do the final step of filling the ATF side while the car is running. Instead of using the factory ATF side measuring method, I always use the measure and replace method as it's just easier. You can measure what's taken out and put the same amount, with some extra for spillage, back in. I do still check the final amount using the factory method for measuring which again, requires the car be on and running. Hope that helps! If you have more questions, you can reach me here (going to space this all out so the BOTS don't grab my contact info, so jus remove the spaces and replace "at" with @. sales at red mist racing dot com.

@@RS5Fanatic Gotcha so leave the old fluid in the ATF side and start the drain for the MTF side and do the full drain and fill and then when that’s good move on to do the ATF side the same? Sorry Just wanna make sure as I just pulled the ATF fill plug out and some came out haha so Imma just put whatever spilled out back in. So it doesn’t mess up.

@@Nii_san99 That is correct.

What's next? Truth bomb. You'd be wrong. The RS5 is actually designed for oil extraction and has a flat sump. It's how Europe services their cars at the dealership. It's actually a great idea along with the engine filter being at the top, and not the bottom of the engine.

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I do. www.redmistracing.com

The code itself tells the BMS what type and size of battery you installed so you should be good to go.

@@RS5Fanatic Thanks for the info!

Yes. Can go straight to stage 2. Send me an email and I can walk you through the process and get you pricing along with the car's requirements. sales@redmistracing.com

Yes, just shoot me an email. sales@redmistraicng.com. I also have an extension that allows you to use the intake cover now as well.

Ideally yes, new bolts. Everything Audi uses is a torque to yield or stretch bolt and is meant to be torqued once.

Because I actually lost hp with the Eventuri intake vs. the stock system. I tested both on two different dynamometers, swapping the intakes with the car still strapped down. There are also several design issues with the Eventuri which cause the filters to clog up sooner requiring more maintenance and they never sealed well, allowing for the ingestion of hot engine bay air. Save your money, there are better ways to make actual hp. You can reach out to me and I can point you in the right direction. Here's my contact, remove all the spaces (to keep the bots at bay) sales @ red mist racing dot com.

@@RS5Fanatic Thank you for the quick reply. I appreciate it. Ill be sure to check out your website and get ahold of you in the future. Thanks again.

I'm a dealer for them. I have everything shot for the wheel installation video but I just haven't gotten around to making it. Not enough time these days.

I think they refer to the ATF side as the front Differential and the MTF side as the center, I could be wrong though but I have seen people call it that. There is a rear differential and that’s not part of this video and takes different fluid, and also has an MTF and ATF side for that as well. The rear differential is always just a drain/fill method though

You do BUT, if you get a spark plug adapter for your air compressor, you can use it to rotate the engine and no need to go into service position.

They only come with the transmission cooler kits.

For throttle body adaptation? You a turn on the ignition for 45 seconds (accessory power only), then shut the car off for 60 seconds. Turn on car and the throttle bodies should calibrate. Sometimes they don't which is where the Ross Tech VCDS would come in.

@@RS5Fanatic really appreciate it

i disconnected my battery when i did my cleaning and did the procedure of having the car off for 40 seconds then on for 60 how would i know if the sync worked?

Actually I solved it :) Can give you details. Going to type my email out phonetically so the bots don't grab it and inundate me with junk mail. sales at redmistracing dot com. Obvoiously replace at with @ and dot will be a "." . Can also get you a small discount on them as well.

@@RS5Fanatic Would you know if a failed (failing) PCV valve would cause intermittent P0171/P0174 code? and it feels like the car will stall. However, it happens once in a blue moon. One of the workshop i went to suggested it was the PCV.

@@Pjai1984 Likely not the PCV. When the diaphragms tear on the OEM PCV, you'll get a high-pitched whistling noise at idle. Most likely you have an air leak elsewhere, possibly one of the vacuum lines underneath the upper intake manifold. Check the MAP sensor which is located right up front, dead center, on the upper intake manifold. Just pull the cover off and it's right there. Have you had any work done on your car recently?

@@Pjai1984 One thing I'd check on the PCV if it's not making any whistling noises...the accordion-style hoses that run from the valve cover to the PCV, check those carefully to see if there are any cracks/tears. If there's a small crack, you can use high quality electrical tape to seal it temporarily and then contact me and I'll get you the billet PCV.

@@RS5Fanatic Sorry, I have another stupid question. If i unplug the PCV valve hose from the crank case, should I feel suction at the hose? or should it be closed?

Thank you! Greatly appreciated. If you're not already in the Facebook RS5 group, come find us. Also visit me at www.redmistracing.com if you need anything performance oriented. Will always try to get you the best price possible.

Are you in NOLA? That's my home town. Anyway....yes, it'll make quite a bit of difference in space. You CAN do it without putting it into service position but there will be a lot of cursing and swearing and it'll take twice as long.

Yep, still going strong. The other pad I'd suggest is the Carbotech 1521. It's a street pad that is non-metallic kevlar mix and is exceptional. Will work on carbon ceramic OR iron rotors.

@@RS5FanaticThank you. I’ve got a horrible rattle on the front of my 2017 R8 that goes when brakes are applied. I’ve used your video to show me what to do and what to get, so thank you. The OE pads still have a lot of life in them, so I’m thinking first to try new hardware, the OE backing pad “fix” and a clean up. If that doesn’t fix it, I guess pads is the only way.

@@J_S591 It's strange, the RS5 uses the same caliper/pad but doesn't seem to suffer from the rattle. I'd clean everything, go with new hardware, try the backing pad and go from there. Make sure the pistons move freely when you compress them. I'm on R8Talk as Ape Factory so if you ever need anything for the R8, let me know.

I can't touch that but mostly because of the air quality here where I live. I never seem to have a DA below 2500. My best 0-60 is 3.9 and fastest 1/4 mile is 11.9.

@@RS5Fanatic Those are still cracking times. Love your work and your tips.

Yes but it's for the transmission, not the engine. It's more of an overflow system. On some Audi vehicles, the tuned DSG's can puke transmission fluid out of the top vent (TTRS and RS3 are notorious for this) and I created/installed one for my RS5 since I was doing a lot of hot weather performance testing.

You are most welcome Rares and good luck!

@@RS5Fanatic So far it’s was fun, the solution for the grommets worked really well, don’t know how you do the process so fast as I spent a whole day on 6 cylinders just to get them clean. So far brake cleaner used in moderation was the fastest to dissolve the gunk. I also must be the only one on the planet that had the injector on cylinder 1 stuck that when I used the pulling tool the whole plastic end snapped so now I had to pull it out. Took a block of plywood, a crowbar a vice grip and penetrating oil to get it out 😡. Called the dealership for replacement air ai ai, on back order and also expensive a/f so I’m waiting for eBay to deliver a couple of used ones purchased for 150 🤞. I need to clear my friends garage so I went and took it out of service position assembled the bits in the front, did spark plugs after gapping them and so on. I can’t do much else without the missing injector. Also I meant to ask how nervous should I be about the injectors acting up, I didn’t protect them from debris as much as I should have. Is there a way to clean them somehow ? I heard at home is pointless without ultrasonic machine pressure testing and so on….. Thank you !

@@RaresBalanean It took me a day to do it initially. If I had a larger air compressor at the time, it would have gone more quickly. Debris shouldn't hurt the injectors but a bit of tape over the top can't hurt if you've left them in the bores. It's important to make sure you replace the teflon seals if the injectors came up out of the bores at all. And to clean the bores really well. The latest injectors have "AD" at the end of their part number. They seem to be more reliable than "AC". You are correct on cleaning at home, can carefully wipe off the injector end but that's about it. I don't think ultrasonic cleaning works either as you can't test them at actual operating pressure and the internal pintel wears/develops cavities due to carbon so you then get inconsistent flow. New injectors are your best bet but $$$$.

@@RS5Fanatic Alright, so rigged a 12v transformer to energize the injectors, then simulated the fuel rail cup so the o-ring seals and through a hole in the cup blasted carburetor cleaner through for a few times and they atomized alright given the can pressure. Also I wanted to check if they leak, all that was for my peace of mind mostly, then assembled everything back according to your specs. Started at second try, ran rough for 5 seconds then settled down lovely. I had my VAG connected I have OBD11, had 4 faults but I assume they were from removing the battery. Cleared faults and rescan, no faults after that. So I’m assuming I’m in the clear. I did a coolant drain, only about 2 gallons came out of almost 4 🤷🏻‍♂️, I guess a flush would have been better but the coolant looked alright so I’m not too worried. Runs fantastic, I think consumption improved, is more responsive, shifts better, and sounds better. Thanks again for your support.

@@RS5Fanatic I was also mentioning the grommets I don’t seem to have a way to attach short movie here to show you what I did to basically eliminate the spacers drop issue but basically ordered some 9lbs 3/4” neodymium magnets with countersink holes in them and put a longer countersink head bolt through the magnet creating a handle, came handy in pulling the loose bolts out and then just dropping it on the grommet/washer, lucked out on the diameter but they ended up roughly the size of the grommets.

If you purchased the tune through JHM, you'll have to go through them. Tuning@jhmotorsports.com. Are you following the directions and using a battery charger? If the voltage is too low, it can cause issues up to and including bricking your ECU. You MUST use a charger. I usually hook one up an hour or so in advance. Did you have any other tunes on the car prior to going with the JHM? Can email me, sales@redmistracing.com.

You CAN do that, and it wouldn't hurt. If you use the measurement method, measuring what comes out and putting that amount back in, you should be good to go. It's helpful for people who can't jack it up on all four corners or get it level.

@@RS5Fanatic thank you for the input. Are you aware if you can use obd11 to purge the system? If not I'll just do the figure 8 method

@@TimFanslau91 I don't believe so. The much more powerful Ross Tech VCDS doesn't do it either.

@RS5Fanatic thanks for the fast replies and insightful video!

@@TimFanslau91 Thanks for the kind words! If you ever need anything performance related, be sure to reach out. www.redmistracing.com

Honestly it'll come down to how big your air compressor is. I also have a way to do this without putting the car in the service position now. I spread it out over two days in the video but a lot of that was due to filming. I would say it took me eight hours, mostly due to the fact my air compressor was too small. Today, with a bigger air compressor, I could do it in about four hours including swapping in new injector seals. If you have any questions, can email me, sales@redmistracing.com.

I believe only in English. If they purchase the tune through me, I can walk them through, translate, etc...if we use screen shots, I can tell them which calibration to select.

​@@RS5Fanatic Look how you become a helpful person Michel. You really deserve all the best in your projects because of how attentive and willing you are with all people. You'll be my man when I need spare parts. 👈👍

Ouch. Injectors have gotten very expensive (bout $300 per injector) and it does require the upper and lower intake manifold to come off the car. It's not super hard but it's one of those things dealers can charge a lot for unfortunately.

Thank you Wade! Greatly appreciated.

I wouldn't do the AWE. I can get you the Kline system in either inconel super alloy or stainless steel. You get to choose from two different carbon fiber exhaust tip styles and the mufflers are valvetronic meaning they are still valved. The problem with the AWE system is there are no valves and there's a lot of drone. If you email me, I can provide you a price quote and delivery time along with more info on the Kline system. They are the best out there and hand fabricated in Europe. The inconel system weighs less than a comparable titanium exhaust system. My email is sales@redmistracing.com.

I did not cross contaminate. I avoided this by using different bleeders OR by cleaning out the bleeder's container with denatured alcohol. For Motul, it's GEAR 300 for the rear diff. I no longer recommend Gear 300 for the transmission as the formula changed. Redline has a higher VI index now.

@RS5Fanatic ah I gotcha! I got an s5 without a sport diff =[... i take it I don't have an ATF side to change on the standard rear diff?

@@jonathan1164 That would be correct, non-sport diff means no ATF side, just normal gear oil.

​@RS5Fanatic appreciate it thank you 😎

​@@RS5Fanatic can I use the same ATF oil for the rear diff as for the gear box ?

Still active, my website: www.redmistracing.com. I'd try rockauto.com, they usually have good prices on the Hitachi pumps.

@@RS5Fanatic I actually have an issue i’ve been dealing with on the RS5. Would you be willing to hear the issue out via email and possibly see if you know the source of the issue? Before doing any major repairs first, i thought it might help to ask for advice on it.

@@PowerlessTech Absolutely, send me an email. sales@redmistracing.com.

thank you so much. i’ve just sent you an email. i greatly appreciate your help

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