Dellorto / Weber secrets #4
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2013
- EZ Demonstration of how to find a blocked idle jet on car with engine running. At my channel page I will have my Dellorto / Weber carburator vids on a play list for EZ viewing.
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Thank you for the tip. I have the single EMP HPMX on my bug. And your tips help.
Thank you, Thank you very much. I had to go in and take a nap after I finished.
good practical info also I like the buggy I have always wanted one myself
3lbs is fine. When using an none stock fuel pump it is a good idea to measure it yourself with a quality pressure gauge. Stock carburated fuel pumps put out around 3 to 3.5 PSI. It can be adjusted by adding gaskets or changing the length of the pump rod. Most books detail that feature.
It will vary depending on what I'm in the mood for. She makes a great dyno and really good for breaking in engines in the summer. You can spot any oil leaks and access valves and plugs real EZ
Hey, thanks for watchin. What kind of rig did you get? Hope you get lots of miles and smiles.
thank you so much I have adjusted the float a couple times you have been xtremely helpful more than I can say do you happen to know who caries a rebuild kit for these carbs at a reasonable cost thanks again
Snaping and popping can be lean condition or spark, Check fuel pressure 3 lbs or less. Clogged fuel filter including stock gas tank screen. Cracks in distributor cap, timing full advance 34 btdc bad rotor, point gap, spark plug wires. Bad spark plug, wrong gap. bad fuel, gas cap vent clogged. Clogged main jet. All this and more is in the book trouble shooting section. Glad it's better stay on it and good luck.
Checkout some of my other carb vids. It' sounds like you refering to the accelerator pump inlet valve. CB performance has parts.
A bad float assembly will not lift the float up strongly enough to seat the fuel inlet valve and you can acutaly siphon gas into the carb and overflow into a cylinder. A bad needle and seat will do the same thing. You can shake the float to see if there is fuel inside or weigh it and compare to the other carb thatis ok. If it's heavier replace it. A master rebuild kit sound like a good idea.
Also max fuel pressure at carb should be 3lbs.
Hard driving in hot weather might warrant a larger jet for cylinder 3. That is not a very big change. Maybe they saw something when the replaced the plugs and everything else looked good. Snapping and popping is a lean condition. Check your entire ignition system. Timing, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, corrosion, Vacum leak, exhaust leak. It really depends on how bad it is. Make one change at a time. It's the best learning experience you can have. Trial and error. Good Luck friend.
hey ez I have now narrowed it down to the intake valve in the bottom of the float bowl I took it apart and filled it with gas and it leaks out as fast as it goes in so its not the needle and seat do u no who carries a part like this fo a 36 dell id appreciate any info thanks again
hey I have to add as of last night I seem to not be to far off on all adjustments it is super strong out of the hole hell I kicked it sideways in a wall mart parking lot with ease as I hit second gear but freeway at about 65-70 it pops and craps out is this due to carb sync or air screws or them opening in sync just thought id ask ur professional opinion as im learning as I go I do almost have this licked after a month of trial and error but would like to get it perfect thanks again
Ive got a manx buggy offbreed with a 1915 motor with dual 36 dellorto carbs my right carb on #two cylinder or the front venture on the right hand side carb keeps flooding out if I don't turn a on off valve I put before the carb as it sits over night it will flood or lock up the motor when I go to start it , can u PLEASE tell me how to fix this issue I have torn apart the carb I do have a dellorto book just like yours but even if I adjust the float it still keeps gurgling gas ive . thanks
Do you run a fuel return line? I've 40 IDFs on a type 4 bus engine with a Holley 12-804 regulator. Great videos!
Nope, The only guys I know running a return line are using Turbos or fuel injection. Try 3 psi or less with your IDF 40's. The fuel inlet valve (float Valve) is having trouble holding back this Ethenol fuel these days.
I put new everthing plugs cap rotor wires electronic ign. set timing at 12 d btdc 009 dist
made tripl sure valves are set right , fuel pump ?? that's my next expence but I do have a pressure reg on it set at 3 lbs I have a fuel filter before pump and one after before carbs . all new . book say possible fuel pump more or less I set my pluygs I think at 30 is that wrong or should it be 28 oh and the setting for the lil inset screws by the mixture screws is between 2-4 mine are all the way closed
Have you had any experience with FRD 34 dellorto carburetor, I'm looking at doing a dual set up on a 1600 stock engine. Any input? Thanks Jay
I picked up a set of those at a swap meet myself. Mine came with a short idle needle and I had a problem getting them to idle smoothly at low RPM. I took them off and ordered a pair of long needle adjusters and some different jets but have not had time to fiddle with them. If at ll possible ask the seller if you can try them out first before you hand over the cash. Good luck with your project. You might feel a little improvement over stock but not a whole lot. Sweet looking Baja you have there. If it were me I would leave it stock and build a big stroker engine $$$ keep the 1600 for around town and spare.
closed is correct. I just had a similar issue and I found the carbon tit missing on the inside of my dizzy cap missing. The one that contacts the top of the rotor. Even a new plug and go bad if it gets dooshed by fuel. I don't know what else to tell you . Just be patient and keep looking. A litte squit of carb cleaner around the manifold gasket to listen for a stumble that could be an exhaust leat?????? Compression check on all for cylinders? A burnt valve coming on. Stick to basics
ez my 2.0 in my 914 has a sputtering problem. i have made sure that the idle jets and main jets are clean. but some times it just sputters like its running out of gas . i am buying a new carbs soon. even just to be able to replace and make sure that it is the difference between the two sets of carbs.
Thats an expensive guess??? Make sure it isn't running out of gas. Fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filters at the carb as well as the in line. Bad fuel?? here we have the ethanol fuel and it gives trouble. Spark plug wires? Start it in the dark and turn off the garage lights and rev the eng while looking at the wires. Sometimes we look past the simple things. Never had a 914. Always wanted one.
it runs well on high speeds so main jets ok fuel line ok i think.
also sputtering seem to be exacerbated when making turns.
also when the car first starts up and i take it slow it seems to be just fine . but i will wait a couple of blocks and i can start to feel an uneven distribution of fuel or spark. sputter hickup then when the car is all warm and toasty the problem remains.
then i feel like shit and looking for new carbs.
i think it is a good idea to go ahead and get new carbs, never hurts to have another pair- and if it does not stop the hiccup i can go on to my sparks.
ez i found the problem when i installed my new 40mm empi carbs.---
!my mechanic left the bolts at the base of the intake manifold connecting to the engine
looser than tighter!
also some of the tin is in the way! and may have been causing a vacuum leak. i tried my best to scoot the new gaskets into place but will at some time remove and grind the tin clear out of the way!!!
also made sure the two springs at each end of the throttle bar between the two carbs were in place.! blessings
Hey EZGZ so then what do you do when your mixture screw is closed all the way in and nothing happens? Basically my mixture screw on #4 cylinder has no effect in or out, all my jets are clean, no detectable air leaks with carb cleaner, floats adjusted correctly, fuel pressure is correct and measured with psi gauge tested for accuracy. I been trying everything to no avail. Brand new dual weber 40 idfs from cb perf i cant believe it, ive been struggling with this problem for what seems like forever :(
If what you say is true and they were mine. I would bring #4 to before top dead center. Pull the plug, reconnect the wire, turn on the ignition and slowly turn the engine by hand and watch the spark plug spark. A Nice Fat Blue spark that you hear go SNAP. If that is perfect then I would think about moving jets from one cylinder to another and see if the problem follows. While I had the spark plug out I would do a compression check on #4.
One time I had a similar problem with old carbs that had been working well. When I go home I still couldn't solve the problem. I decided to take the carb off the head and try a different set of carbs. What I found was a broken gasket between cylinders at the head. I put on a new gasket and reinstalled the carb and manifold and it worked great.
If your carbs are indeed brand new and have never been witnessed running well on a engine you might just have a bad carb that was not made right??? Thats when buying a new from a reputable supplier like CB and you having the receipt can pay off. Give them a call and see what they will do.
Just had another thought. Make sure the air vent hole is open to the idle circuit. It's very small and on top of the carb. Here is a link that might help give you the location. www.cbperformance.com/Articles.asp?ID=266
@@TheEZGZ Thanks EZGZ, I havnt ensured #4 has spark but i will this weekend. It always sounded and felt like all 4 cylinders had power but ill double check. I also tried swapping jets and problem remained. Havnt checked air vent hole i will do that as well. I suspect it may be gasket related since on the problem side #4 the other day i noticed what appeared to be fuel that dripped down on intake manifold from gasket between carb and manifold. Strange since the gaskets were brand new from cb performance and the motor itself maybe has 4-5 hours of total run time. Thinking about putting a very thin layer of yamabond around ALL of my intake gaskets to hopefully reduce chance of airleaks and/or to atleast stop that little gasoline dribble. I was also doing some research and discovered maybe its a choke piston leaking? Worse comes to worse i still have my receipt from CB but i hope to fix it and will let you know it goes
Keep at it you will like it when you get the bugs worked out. I have had a spark plug go bad. It idled properly but as soon as you put it under load it would misfire. I worked on my carb for a solid day while on vacation and a Buddy came over and handed me some plugs. The old ones did not look that bad but I changed one at a time and test drove the car. The first plug I changed solved the problem but I changed them all so they would be the same age????? Good Luck with you project and let me know how it goes.
Sounds like you covered every thing. Lastly, there is a small air bypass screw for each cylinder along the base. It can be used to synchronize a dual carb that doesn't have even flow in both throats. Yours should be fully closed. I have also used a product called SEA FOAM gasoline additive and added it to my gas. It is supposed to devolve certain types of deposits in the carb. Maybe try a new spark plug in #4 even if it is new. You just have to keep trying to look and adjust things you haven't already checked. Your float needle should hold pressure for a reasonable amount of time.
Cool buggy what motor
nice buggy
do you have an email address I can send this video to I cant figure out how to send it to here
Kadrones. Keep it simple
I like that
Like your video but your cameraman needs to be fired!
I'll have a talk with him. LOL