UK here. Been researching this job as the original FoMoCo-labeled cooler on my Japan-built '06 Mazda3 2l is starting to weep at the downward-facing coolant connection due to corrosion of the steel though it's still oil-tight. The manuals give the torque for the four filter block to engine block bolts as 20-30 Nm / 14.8-22.1 ft-lb. There's a note on applying silicone sealant to the oil pressure switch/sender threads making sure the first 1-2mm is kept clear "to prevent a possible operation malfunction". Torque is given as 12-18 Nm / 9-13 ft·lbf.
Ok sir I have to update my prior review of this video. I just got done an hour ago doing the new oil cooler and the conversion to a regular oil filter. My 2007 Mazda CX7 leaked so much oil before I thought it was my timing cover gasket AND the oil filter gasket. I leaked so much tree hugging snowflakes used to follow me to see where my ground polluting ass lived. I am absolutely delighted to say I have ZERO oil leaks now. Drove it 40 miles and not a drop. I guess that oil cooler can leak bad enough to disperse oil everywhere under the engine. I was a little more cautious than you and for 26 bucks I replaced the Oil pressure sending unit while it was apart. This is by far the most clearly instructed and useful video I have ever watched on UA-cam. WELL DONE SIR! (I did teflon tape the oil pressure lol )
You're welcome! Thanks for watching! Yeah it's better to fix it right the first time unlike me where I had to deal with it twice. For your wife's CX-7, it should be a similar set up so this video should guide you through it. If you have any questions, feel free to comment and ask. Also make sure to like and subscribe!
Did it work? Mine is a 2004 (2004 MAZDA3 2.3L MT HATCHBACK S), and it's appears to be leaking. I have not looked to see if it's leaking from this very part, but I have not jacked the car up yet but that plastic bottom-most cover has oil all over it. Could it be just the Oil Filter needs replaced ?
Just in time!! I’ve been waiting for a clear and detailed video for this exact job. Also, liked how you talked about “repairing” the nicks on the gasket surface with rtv. Great video!! Will use it once it gets warmer!
I hope this video helps you when you tackle this job! Yeah the nicks were an accident from the time I used pliers to try to remove the broken bolt. RTV gasket is definitely not necessary. Good luck!
That's awesome to hear! Hope this video guides you through your repair install! Consider giving the video a like and subscribing as it helps my channel grow!
Just completed this conversion/upgrade on my 2007 Mazda CX 7 using OEM upgrade kit from Japan (as listed in o.p.'s links on Ebay). It took me 5 hours!! fussing with the upper coolant hose (clamp was in an unfortunate position) and installation of the upgraded unit was much harder than expected due to lower radiator hose clearance and access angle on the upper right attachment bolt (not to mention working upside down on minimal clearance using jackstands). My 1st recommendation is to use car ramps instead of jacking w/ stands to give you a higher clearance; you'll need it. Installation tips: Install top left attachment bolt 1st (gasket tangs hold bolt) then bottom right to square up the assembly. For top right bolt, I had to put the socket on first and then partially insert the 3" extension to get the bolt turning (the top coolant hose nipple partially blocks clear socket w/ extension access). Tighten by hand until flush. Install last bolt (bottom left) easy access. I used 18 ft.lbs. torque setting for these 4 bolts; same access challenges as mentioned above (for the top right bolt you have to muscle it on and squeeze your torque wrench into place; best to use a 6 point socket vs 12 point for better/stronger fit and less chance of rounding of the bolt head). Next I installed the oil pressure censor -- this was the biggest b*tch of the project besides the upper right bolt and upper coolant hose. Someone should find out what metric size this is because a crescent wrench is too thick to work efficiently in this tight space (it's whatever metric is a little bigger than 7/8 inch) a spanner of the correct size would be narrow enough to more easily loosen and then tighten to install the oil pressure censor. After that I hooked up the lower coolant hose; piece of cake. Screwed on filter, filled oil, topped off coolant, ran engine for a while checking for leaks; none so far. Thanks JG Garage for your video and tips! I felt confident trying this DIY project after watching your video several times and preparing for as many contingencies as I could think of. (FYI, I ended up reusing the OEM coolant hose clamps)
Thank you for commenting on your install experience and for providing more tips for others. I am so glad to be able to help others. I wanted to make this video because there were no other videos here on UA-cam detailing about the full process and I was quite intimidated about this job without having much insight. Also sorry that I was unable to provide you the correct torque spec for the oil filter housing. Did you just decide on 18 ft lbs or were you able to find that spec somewhere online? I'm glad that you had a successful install! Please consider subscribing to my channel and giving my video a like as it really helps out my channel.
Just ordered the parts . the spin is not listed for the 2009 cx7 turbo but stating from 2010 . i believe this is due to the age of the car. so ordered one of those. going to do it this weekend. Wish me luck
Awesome video. DISI engine need SP API oil. The new standard works better with DI engines and alleviates the issue of zoom zoom boom due to low engine speed high knock.
Hi JG Garage. Great video and professionally executed. I think I can perform this job with confidence. I do need to replace my coolant hose. Can you provide a link for this part ?
Thanks for the video and the clear part information. Liked and subscribed. I replaced the gasket between the cooler and housing about a year and a half ago using a Fel-pro gasket. It's leaking again already. I assume it's the design of the updated cooler gasket that works better. Is it possible to use the updated cooler with the old housing and still have it not leak? Trying to find the cheapest way to reliably stop the leak. I assume changing the housing and another gasket won't last.
Thanks for liking and subscribing! Yes, you can use the updated cooler on your existing housing. I upgraded the housing just because I'm already down there taking off the parts and I prefer the spin on filter since the original cartridge filter is quite messy and cumbersome. The spin on housing was definitely an expense but I thought might as well do a 2 for 1 job. Haha
Thank you for watching and subscribing! I have included a link for the oil filter conversion housing for Mazda models without the oil cooler in the video description. Please check it out and confirm it will work for your application. I believe it will fit for your 2005 Mazda 3 based on the reviews and questions asked on the listing regarding your year and model but please double check.
I know this is old but great informative video. Question: I'm about to do this job on my Jaun. And I came across the the oil cooler part you called out on Edge's site. Why is their part nearly 400 more expensive? What Am I missing? Any ideas?
Thanks for watching! Yes I saw that one as well when I was browsing for the parts. Honestly I don't know why they charge that much. Their website pretty much seems to be charging dealership prices for oem parts. The parts in the description are all OEM Mazda parts but for cheaper.
@@jggarage1807 thanks for the quick reply. Yes, stealership pricing is more like it. Keep up the good work on your videos. Hopefully it's netting you some extra play funds to buy go-fast bits for whatever platform you're on right now 👍🏾✌🏾
Great video. Just picked up a 2008 cx7 for my kid (unfortunately did not know it was very poorly maintained) so lots of repairs so far. How long did this job take?
Hey thanks for watching, liking and subscribing! And honestly I've seen mixed opinions on using Teflon tape. If you want to use some sealant, I've read using high temp thread sealant and making sure to give it enough time to cure. But from my experience, I've removed the oil pressure twice on different occasions and never had a leak from there.
i found 25NM on the bolts per a Cosworth instruction manual for a 2003-2006 Ford Focus with a 2.3 Duratec. Just did a spin on filter conversion for 2007 Mazda 6, and drove it around for a and found an oil leak...I was too afraid to overtighten and cause permanent damage and I don't have a torque wrench.
Hey thanks for watching! If I understood your question correctly, you're asking if you can use the black plastic filter cap from the old housing onto the new conversion housing? If so, no you can't. The new housing is completely different and only accepts a screw on filter. If you just want to replace the oil cooler and use the old filter housing, you can. Does this answer your question? Feel free to ask. I'd be happy to help.
Great vid! Thanks for posting the links. Wondering where you got your 76mm 14 Flute Filter Wrench? I see a number of them on Amazon, but I do recall hearing in one of the Speed forums that not all (even when supposedly the same size) will fit as well as they should. Also wondering what year your Speed 3 is...I have a 2008 and would love to do this upgrade - just want to verify that the parts will fit. Thanks and keep the great content coming!
You're welcome and thanks for watching! I honestly don't remember since I bought it years ago but I know I bought it from an auto parts store and I want to say O'Reilly. I think I came across that too before because there are filter wrenches that are 74-76, 75.6 and 76 mm in size. I believe mine is just the 76mm which worked just fine for many years. But if you're in doubt, just buy the 75.6 and 76 and test fit both to see which fits better and return the other. My Speed is a 2009. Yes everything I used/bought will fit your 2008. Basically the same car. The links I've included are also the cheapest way of doing this upgrade. Do you have the oil cooler leak? Or just want to upgrade to a spin on filter? Also thanks for the compliment! I do plan on creating more content so please subscribe if you haven't as it will help my channel and also consider following me on Instagram, @jg.garage_.
@@jggarage1807 No leak (yet) however I find it to be a bit of a pain to change the oil filter on my Speed as compared to my other cars - this looks like a fairly straight forward upgrade. I will be getting a 2007 Speed 3 at some point in the spring which will be my "fun" car (it's a Texas car so has never seen snow and therefore has no rust). That car will also get the oil cooler upgrade. Just wanted to make sure you had a Gen 1 as well - as you noted they are basically the same car from 2006 - 2009. I am not as familiar with the Gen 2 Speeds so wanted to make sure yours was at least the same generation as mine, thus ensuring the parts you list will fit. I will take a look on Amazon for the filter wrenches and order as needed. Thanks much for the info and the quick reply!
Mine is a 2004 (2004 MAZDA3 2.3L MT HATCHBACK S), and it's appears to be leaking (and onto the ground). I have not looked to see if it's leaking from this very part, but I have not jacked the car up yet but that plastic bottom-most cover has oil all over it. Could it be just the Oil Filter needs replaced ?
Hello, could i use the oil filter conversion housing so that i could use a spin-on filter without swapping the oil cooler, TLDR, can i use stock oil cooler with the conversion housing?.
Do we even need the oil cooler? My 2008 Fusion with same engine was converted to spin on by the previous owner, a Mazda mechanic, and it does not have a cooler. I can see having the transmission oil cooler, so would simply remove the oil cooler from the line and connect direct to the transmission cooler.
I don't believe your 2008 Fusion came with an oil cooler. This Mazdaspeed came with an oil cooler due to its higher performance engine. There are two oil filter conversion types for these Mazda/Ford cars, one with an oil cooler that attaches to the top like in this video and one without like the what the mechanic installed on your car. I hope this answers your question. If you have further questions, don't hesitate to ask! Also thank you for watching! Don't forget to like and subscribe as it helps my channel grow!
@@jggarage1807 Wow thanks. That is great info. I actually have the Mazda 5 and searched for that and then accidentally pulled up your video without realizing it is a different vehicle. But the story is probably the same since the Mazda 5 has the cooler.
No I didn't. In my previous video before this one, I did a full coolant flush so I didn't want to waste pretty much new coolant. I just drained whatever coolant would spill after removing the two coolant hoses connected to oil cooler.
@@esurfer89 yup! If I had to estimate, maybe 1-2 cups of coolant drained and then I just topped off after. You're welcome! Thanks for watching! I hope this video helps if you'll be doing this job. Also don't forget to like and subscribe! It'll help my channel out!
@@joshcgavin1 it shouldn't as the coolant system is separate from the oil. When this fail, the gasket that fails will make the oil leak to the exterior. They would not mix.
It should be part #: 9XF0-02-257L but also double check with the dealership. I bought it from there and if I remember correctly, they were cheap. Thanks for watching! Don't forget to like and subscribe! It'll help my small channel out! If you have any more questions, feel free to ask away!
@@jggarage1807 thank you. Just bought the updated oil cooler from the same ebay seller and a spin on conversion so I’ll be doing the swap next week. The car has 38k miles on it rn so wasnt sure if i should replace those two bolts
@@bhavneetsaini7941 oh nice! And 38k first gen? Wow that's some low miles! And technically you don't have to replace them. It's a good idea to replace them if maybe you've removed and installed them a couple times or may have overtightened them on accident like I did. lol you should be fine with the original ones. Just carefuly tighten them and you should be good but of course feel free to get new ones.
@@jggarage1807 i have a follow up question. Is it necessary to lube the gasket between the cooler and the housing like how we lube up oil filter seals?
@@bhavneetsaini7941 to be honest I wondered about the same thing. I actually asked the same question on a Mazdaspeed page on Facebook and most people said I didn't need to since they said it's a steel gasket, not an oring and also said it doesn't spin like an oil filter so no need. So I didn't during this install but if you take a look at 9:27 with the photo I provided, it does show an oil symbol. If I was to do it again, I'd probably put a thin layer as I don't think it would hurt. If anyone reads this and knows a definite answer, please let us know! Thanks!
If I understood your question correctly, you're asking if you can just replace the seal between your old oil cooler and old housing? If so, yes you technically can and it's cheaper that way however it will leak again in no time. I've done that method the first time and it didn't last long so I decided to switch to the Japanese oil cooler. Let me know if this answers your question.
@@MaSta74372 That's interesting. At the time when I did research to do this project, I learned that I needed to replace the bolt to the updated bolt when using the updated cooler. I never bothered comparing the two bolts but now I wish I did. The two bolts however are different part numbers so I figured it was just different. Here's a diagram showing both set ups (old & new) with the respective bolt with part number. ci.catcar.info/mazda_2018_02/usa/2E08RU1.png
I'm trying to do this on my base model 2004 mazda 6 and idk what the coolant hosing connects to. There's two closed connections on the bottom of the radiator, but I feel like it should be connected somewhere else. Can anyone help inform me?
I didn't at the time since people at the forum told me it's not needed since it doesn't spin but looking at the diagram in the video, looks like there was a oil can symbol. I think adding a little would be fine.
Yes but the only difference is you would need to buy the oil filter housing without the oil cooler adapter which is on top of the housing. I have a link to that part in my description however it seems to be out of stock on Amazon right now.
Hey there. The oil cooler gasket that normally fails is between the oil cooler and the oil filter housing. Only oil passes through this gasket. Coolant runs inside through the oil cooler and is a closed system and shouldn't mix with the oil there. I haven't heard/seen where the oil cooler actually breaks and causes internal coolant leaking into the oil. Usually coolant mixed with oil is a head gasket issue. Have you overheated?
When I first got the car and researched which oil to get, I came across a lot of forum threads suggesting and recommending Shell's Rotella T6. Since then, I've only used T6 during oil changes however, people have claimed that the newer T6 version has changed and may not be as good as before. I don't know anything about this to prove it or not. It's just something I've came across and read in forums or FB Mazdaspeed pages. I do want to mention also that when going through forums and pages, I do see a lot of people saying to just get a good quality synthetic 5w-30 and all should be good. Now to answer your question about why 5w-40, I will just copy/paste from a thread that basically sums up the answer: "1) Mazda released a TSB to use 5W-40 oil to mitigate the smoking in idle issues. The thicker oil supposedly will not seep out of the seals as much as -30 oil. 2) Years of data and used oil analysis on the platform showed that the T6 is very good for these engines. Part of the reason is since it is diesel-specific and thus designed for direct-injection, it resists fuel dilution much better." Now I don't know the credibility of the person who wrote that but that's basically what people have consistently said online and what I have read.
I have included a link for the oil filter conversion housing for Mazda models without the oil cooler in the video description. Please check it out and confirm it will work for your application. I believe it will fit for your 2005 Mazda 6i 2.3 based on the reviews and questions asked on the listing regarding your year and model but please double check.
I don't think your gasket failed - they way you installed the oil pressure sensor was wrong - you need to put joint compound on it. That is probably where your oil is leaking from.
It is indeed the gasket that failed because the leak is coming from above the oil pressure sensor. It is leaking from the mating joint of the oil cooler above and the oil filter housing below so that only indicated the oil cooler gasket. Also, I never touched or removed the oil pressure sensor during the first repair when I just replaced the gasket with the original oil cooler. Before this video, I did wonder if I needed to put any kind of sealant on the oil pressure sensor threads and from what I read online and group pages, I learned it was not necessary and I saw someone use Teflon tape but I wasn't comfortable using that. Ever since this video was made to today, the whole repair hasn't leaked, neither from the oil cooler nor from the oil pressure sensor.
Out of curiosity, the Amazon listing has people saying this isn’t the part for a Mazdaspeed3. However, it looks exactly the same as the edge auto sport one but way cheaper. Are the Amazon guys right? Or is this in fact the part?
@@originalmarshmello oh yeah then that's definitely the part. It shares with different models. I just checked the Amazon link in my description and I don't see anyone saying it's not for the Mazdaspeed. The listing title however doesn't mention Mazdaspeed but it's compatible. The part number matches.
i have a 2010 ms3 i bought the car a few months ago and it has this catch can literally 10 minutes ago it just started leaking oil like crazy all over lost probably 4 or 5 quarts in about 5 mins um idk what to do i cant track it down cuz there's literally oil everywhere but the catch can keeps filling up. which i though was weird cuz i can just keep emptying it so idk if it just built pressure or something and blew a line bc its not coming from around the oil pan area but both the lines to the catch can are still on. and ofc the geniuses at Mazda don't have a oil pressure gauge on the car if anyone can help please let me know
Have you tried filling it up with oil again and try running it and see where it would leak specifically? Maybe lay a cardboard down and see which specific spot it's coming from that way you can track it. I know you said there's oil everywhere so that would be a challenge unless you try to clean as much as you can so the leak can be more recognizable.
@@jggarage1807 sorry i forgot i commented on a couple pages i figured it out a day or two after this (oil filter was put on wayyyy too tight i basically had two half's by the time i got it off im guessing it built pressure and blew the gasket) i replaced it and its working fine now.
@@CSTLLNS I didn't know at the time that clamp type mattered but I'm happy to say to this day, it's held up. Maybe if I ever need to touch it again, I can put the original clamps back on. Thanks for watching!
@ no worries man great video! Honestly it’s more of a problem if you have extreme weather changes like up north. The constant tension clamps take care of auto adjustment due to climate as needed.
It is likely Mazda doesn't make their own clamps and gets them from a supplier since they are just clamps. The clamps I bought work just fine and didn't seem to be super thin or flimsy. If you'll be doing this repair, feel free to use the original clamps or any clamps of your choosing. Thanks for watching!
UK here. Been researching this job as the original FoMoCo-labeled cooler on my Japan-built '06 Mazda3 2l is starting to weep at the downward-facing coolant connection due to corrosion of the steel though it's still oil-tight.
The manuals give the torque for the four filter block to engine block bolts as 20-30 Nm / 14.8-22.1 ft-lb. There's a note on applying silicone sealant to the oil pressure switch/sender threads making sure the first 1-2mm is kept clear "to prevent a possible operation malfunction". Torque is given as 12-18 Nm / 9-13 ft·lbf.
Ok sir I have to update my prior review of this video. I just got done an hour ago doing the new oil cooler and the conversion to a regular oil filter. My 2007 Mazda CX7 leaked so much oil before I thought it was my timing cover gasket AND the oil filter gasket. I leaked so much tree hugging snowflakes used to follow me to see where my ground polluting ass lived. I am absolutely delighted to say I have ZERO oil leaks now. Drove it 40 miles and not a drop. I guess that oil cooler can leak bad enough to disperse oil everywhere under the engine. I was a little more cautious than you and for 26 bucks I replaced the Oil pressure sending unit while it was apart. This is by far the most clearly instructed and useful video I have ever watched on UA-cam. WELL DONE SIR! (I did teflon tape the oil pressure lol )
Thank you for this video. I am going to do this upgrade on my wife's CX-7 ASAP. Tired of the pesky leaks.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching! Yeah it's better to fix it right the first time unlike me where I had to deal with it twice. For your wife's CX-7, it should be a similar set up so this video should guide you through it. If you have any questions, feel free to comment and ask. Also make sure to like and subscribe!
Very well done, sir. I am about to change my oil and filter on my 2007 Mazda 5, and it will be my first "mechanic" job ever. :)
Did it work? Mine is a 2004 (2004 MAZDA3 2.3L MT HATCHBACK S), and it's appears to be leaking. I have not looked to see if it's leaking from this very part, but I have not jacked the car up yet but that plastic bottom-most cover has oil all over it. Could it be just the Oil Filter needs replaced ?
Did this upgrade a few weeks back with this video as a guide ..thank you so much for the in-depth video .
was it easy to get the bolts off?
Just in time!! I’ve been waiting for a clear and detailed video for this exact job. Also, liked how you talked about “repairing” the nicks on the gasket surface with rtv. Great video!! Will use it once it gets warmer!
I hope this video helps you when you tackle this job! Yeah the nicks were an accident from the time I used pliers to try to remove the broken bolt. RTV gasket is definitely not necessary. Good luck!
how did it go?
You are a God amongst men! this will solve the most annoying problem with my mazda 6
Glad this video will help you! Thanks for watching! Don't forget to like and subscribe as it helps out my channel! Good luck on your repair!
What problem did you have? What annoyance was it, the non-spin-on filter part, or did you have the leak?
Clear, precise, to the point, no b.s.
Thank you so much! I appreciate you and your comment. I tried my best to be as informative as I can.
First video I clicked and it's exactly what I needed. Thanks man great video.
That's awesome to hear! Hope this video guides you through your repair install! Consider giving the video a like and subscribing as it helps my channel grow!
How did you know it wasn't just needing a new oil filter O-Ring?
Good and informative video, but I live in Canada and am having a real tough time finding those bits here - without paying a fortune!
Thank you so much! Please consider giving the video a like! And yeah, I can imagine the high shipping cost. Were you able to find a cheaper source?
@@jggarage1807 no not yet, I'm still letting it drip for now lol
@@simonparker3842 same boat
Thank you very much! Very informative. Now I know the oil leak source.
Hi after it passed the time you never had a problems I mean no leak at all. Thanks
Yes as of now, still no signs of any leak. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask! Thanks for watching!
Just completed this conversion/upgrade on my 2007 Mazda CX 7 using OEM upgrade kit from Japan (as listed in o.p.'s links on Ebay). It took me 5 hours!! fussing with the upper coolant hose (clamp was in an unfortunate position) and installation of the upgraded unit was much harder than expected due to lower radiator hose clearance and access angle on the upper right attachment bolt (not to mention working upside down on minimal clearance using jackstands). My 1st recommendation is to use car ramps instead of jacking w/ stands to give you a higher clearance; you'll need it. Installation tips: Install top left attachment bolt 1st (gasket tangs hold bolt) then bottom right to square up the assembly. For top right bolt, I had to put the socket on first and then partially insert the 3" extension to get the bolt turning (the top coolant hose nipple partially blocks clear socket w/ extension access). Tighten by hand until flush. Install last bolt (bottom left) easy access. I used 18 ft.lbs. torque setting for these 4 bolts; same access challenges as mentioned above (for the top right bolt you have to muscle it on and squeeze your torque wrench into place; best to use a 6 point socket vs 12 point for better/stronger fit and less chance of rounding of the bolt head). Next I installed the oil pressure censor -- this was the biggest b*tch of the project besides the upper right bolt and upper coolant hose. Someone should find out what metric size this is because a crescent wrench is too thick to work efficiently in this tight space (it's whatever metric is a little bigger than 7/8 inch) a spanner of the correct size would be narrow enough to more easily loosen and then tighten to install the oil pressure censor. After that I hooked up the lower coolant hose; piece of cake. Screwed on filter, filled oil, topped off coolant, ran engine for a while checking for leaks; none so far. Thanks JG Garage for your video and tips! I felt confident trying this DIY project after watching your video several times and preparing for as many contingencies as I could think of. (FYI, I ended up reusing the OEM coolant hose clamps)
Thank you for commenting on your install experience and for providing more tips for others. I am so glad to be able to help others. I wanted to make this video because there were no other videos here on UA-cam detailing about the full process and I was quite intimidated about this job without having much insight. Also sorry that I was unable to provide you the correct torque spec for the oil filter housing. Did you just decide on 18 ft lbs or were you able to find that spec somewhere online? I'm glad that you had a successful install! Please consider subscribing to my channel and giving my video a like as it really helps out my channel.
Wow..not to bright are you
Just ordered the parts . the spin is not listed for the 2009 cx7 turbo but stating from 2010 . i believe this is due to the age of the car. so ordered one of those. going to do it this weekend. Wish me luck
Awesome video. DISI engine need SP API oil. The new standard works better with DI engines and alleviates the issue of zoom zoom boom due to low engine speed high knock.
I really love this video, thank you so much for the helpful info :)
Very direct and to the point. Thank you. Can you explain the benefits from using the Rotella oil compared to just 5w30.
This video is super helpful. Thank you for such quality content.
Thank you so much! This means a lot. Please consider subscribing and giving the video a like as it really helps out my channel!
Thanks for the video. I'm installing one of these on my Focus. It's super helpful. BTW, where do the coolant hoses route to on the Mazda?
Hi JG Garage. Great video and professionally executed. I think I can perform this job with confidence. I do need to replace my coolant hose. Can you provide a link for this part ?
Thank you bro for the video! does the video covers mazda5? mine is 2012
Thanks for the video and the clear part information. Liked and subscribed. I replaced the gasket between the cooler and housing about a year and a half ago using a Fel-pro gasket. It's leaking again already. I assume it's the design of the updated cooler gasket that works better. Is it possible to use the updated cooler with the old housing and still have it not leak? Trying to find the cheapest way to reliably stop the leak. I assume changing the housing and another gasket won't last.
Thanks for liking and subscribing! Yes, you can use the updated cooler on your existing housing. I upgraded the housing just because I'm already down there taking off the parts and I prefer the spin on filter since the original cartridge filter is quite messy and cumbersome. The spin on housing was definitely an expense but I thought might as well do a 2 for 1 job. Haha
Do you happen to know what those 4 bolts are that are used to install the filter housing/oil pump or how to reorder them? I lost one
great info you earned a sub.did not khow there was a spin on set up for a 2.3 L will it fit a 2005 mazda 3 ?
Thank you for watching and subscribing! I have included a link for the oil filter conversion housing for Mazda models without the oil cooler in the video description. Please check it out and confirm it will work for your application. I believe it will fit for your 2005 Mazda 3 based on the reviews and questions asked on the listing regarding your year and model but please double check.
Will this work for a 2006 mazda 3 2.3l that dont have a oil cooler?
Also what has people noticed after this upgrade temps / oil life / performance ?
I know this is old but great informative video. Question: I'm about to do this job on my Jaun. And I came across the the oil cooler part you called out on Edge's site. Why is their part nearly 400 more expensive? What Am I missing? Any ideas?
Thanks for watching! Yes I saw that one as well when I was browsing for the parts. Honestly I don't know why they charge that much. Their website pretty much seems to be charging dealership prices for oem parts. The parts in the description are all OEM Mazda parts but for cheaper.
@@jggarage1807 thanks for the quick reply. Yes, stealership pricing is more like it. Keep up the good work on your videos. Hopefully it's netting you some extra play funds to buy go-fast bits for whatever platform you're on right now
👍🏾✌🏾
Great video. Just picked up a 2008 cx7 for my kid (unfortunately did not know it was very poorly maintained) so lots of repairs so far.
How long did this job take?
I'd say this job can be done in about 4-5 hours. Maybe faster if everything goes as planned and cooperates upon removal.
Awesome video.
Great video. WOuld you recommend teflon tape on the oil sensor? Also liked and subscribed
Hey thanks for watching, liking and subscribing! And honestly I've seen mixed opinions on using Teflon tape. If you want to use some sealant, I've read using high temp thread sealant and making sure to give it enough time to cure. But from my experience, I've removed the oil pressure twice on different occasions and never had a leak from there.
i found 25NM on the bolts per a Cosworth instruction manual for a 2003-2006 Ford Focus with a 2.3 Duratec. Just did a spin on filter conversion for 2007 Mazda 6, and drove it around for a and found an oil leak...I was too afraid to overtighten and cause permanent damage and I don't have a torque wrench.
Were you able to determine where it's leaking from exactly? Is it leaking between the filter housing and engine block?
@@jggarage1807 yes that is where it's leaking from. I used the metal gasket as well. I'll be getting a torque wrench soon
@@Metal_Siren Did that fix it?
Hi, I wonder if I could still use my oem oil filter cap on that kind of conversion housing? Instead of screw-on filter.
Hey thanks for watching! If I understood your question correctly, you're asking if you can use the black plastic filter cap from the old housing onto the new conversion housing? If so, no you can't. The new housing is completely different and only accepts a screw on filter. If you just want to replace the oil cooler and use the old filter housing, you can. Does this answer your question? Feel free to ask. I'd be happy to help.
Thanks a lot. U’ve been very helpful Sir. Keep it up. 💪🏻
@@florenzrosario8786 no problem! Thank you! Don't forget to give the video and subscribe as it helps my small channel grow!
Great vid! Thanks for posting the links. Wondering where you got your 76mm 14 Flute Filter Wrench? I see a number of them on Amazon, but I do recall hearing in one of the Speed forums that not all (even when supposedly the same size) will fit as well as they should. Also wondering what year your Speed 3 is...I have a 2008 and would love to do this upgrade - just want to verify that the parts will fit. Thanks and keep the great content coming!
You're welcome and thanks for watching! I honestly don't remember since I bought it years ago but I know I bought it from an auto parts store and I want to say O'Reilly. I think I came across that too before because there are filter wrenches that are 74-76, 75.6 and 76 mm in size. I believe mine is just the 76mm which worked just fine for many years. But if you're in doubt, just buy the 75.6 and 76 and test fit both to see which fits better and return the other. My Speed is a 2009. Yes everything I used/bought will fit your 2008. Basically the same car. The links I've included are also the cheapest way of doing this upgrade. Do you have the oil cooler leak? Or just want to upgrade to a spin on filter? Also thanks for the compliment! I do plan on creating more content so please subscribe if you haven't as it will help my channel and also consider following me on Instagram, @jg.garage_.
@@jggarage1807 No leak (yet) however I find it to be a bit of a pain to change the oil filter on my Speed as compared to my other cars - this looks like a fairly straight forward upgrade. I will be getting a 2007 Speed 3 at some point in the spring which will be my "fun" car (it's a Texas car so has never seen snow and therefore has no rust). That car will also get the oil cooler upgrade. Just wanted to make sure you had a Gen 1 as well - as you noted they are basically the same car from 2006 - 2009. I am not as familiar with the Gen 2 Speeds so wanted to make sure yours was at least the same generation as mine, thus ensuring the parts you list will fit. I will take a look on Amazon for the filter wrenches and order as needed. Thanks much for the info and the quick reply!
Mine is a 2004 (2004 MAZDA3 2.3L MT HATCHBACK S), and it's appears to be leaking (and onto the ground). I have not looked to see if it's leaking from this very part, but I have not jacked the car up yet but that plastic bottom-most cover has oil all over it. Could it be just the Oil Filter needs replaced ?
Did you need to bleed the coolant system after? Or just top it off?
Hello, could i use the oil filter conversion housing so that i could use a spin-on filter without swapping the oil cooler, TLDR, can i use stock oil cooler with the conversion housing?.
Yes that is possible.
@@jggarage1807 thank you very much
Do we even need the oil cooler? My 2008 Fusion with same engine was converted to spin on by the previous owner, a Mazda mechanic, and it does not have a cooler. I can see having the transmission oil cooler, so would simply remove the oil cooler from the line and connect direct to the transmission cooler.
I don't believe your 2008 Fusion came with an oil cooler. This Mazdaspeed came with an oil cooler due to its higher performance engine. There are two oil filter conversion types for these Mazda/Ford cars, one with an oil cooler that attaches to the top like in this video and one without like the what the mechanic installed on your car. I hope this answers your question. If you have further questions, don't hesitate to ask! Also thank you for watching! Don't forget to like and subscribe as it helps my channel grow!
@@jggarage1807 Wow thanks. That is great info. I actually have the Mazda 5 and searched for that and then accidentally pulled up your video without realizing it is a different vehicle. But the story is probably the same since the Mazda 5 has the cooler.
Did you remove the coolant first as well?
No I didn't. In my previous video before this one, I did a full coolant flush so I didn't want to waste pretty much new coolant. I just drained whatever coolant would spill after removing the two coolant hoses connected to oil cooler.
@@jggarage1807 so only a little will come out from the hoses. Then just top off after. Thanks!
@@esurfer89 yup! If I had to estimate, maybe 1-2 cups of coolant drained and then I just topped off after. You're welcome! Thanks for watching! I hope this video helps if you'll be doing this job. Also don't forget to like and subscribe! It'll help my channel out!
@@jggarage1807can this cause milky looking oil due to coolant and oil mixing if it fails???
@@joshcgavin1 it shouldn't as the coolant system is separate from the oil. When this fail, the gasket that fails will make the oil leak to the exterior. They would not mix.
Do you know the part number for the 4 oil filter housing bolts you said you replaced earlier for the speed3
It should be part #: 9XF0-02-257L but also double check with the dealership. I bought it from there and if I remember correctly, they were cheap. Thanks for watching! Don't forget to like and subscribe! It'll help my small channel out! If you have any more questions, feel free to ask away!
@@jggarage1807 thank you. Just bought the updated oil cooler from the same ebay seller and a spin on conversion so I’ll be doing the swap next week. The car has 38k miles on it rn so wasnt sure if i should replace those two bolts
@@bhavneetsaini7941 oh nice! And 38k first gen? Wow that's some low miles! And technically you don't have to replace them. It's a good idea to replace them if maybe you've removed and installed them a couple times or may have overtightened them on accident like I did. lol you should be fine with the original ones. Just carefuly tighten them and you should be good but of course feel free to get new ones.
@@jggarage1807 i have a follow up question. Is it necessary to lube the gasket between the cooler and the housing like how we lube up oil filter seals?
@@bhavneetsaini7941 to be honest I wondered about the same thing. I actually asked the same question on a Mazdaspeed page on Facebook and most people said I didn't need to since they said it's a steel gasket, not an oring and also said it doesn't spin like an oil filter so no need. So I didn't during this install but if you take a look at 9:27 with the photo I provided, it does show an oil symbol. If I was to do it again, I'd probably put a thin layer as I don't think it would hurt.
If anyone reads this and knows a definite answer, please let us know! Thanks!
i did 13-15 ftlbs for the oil filter housing to engine bolts…if u go 15+ ftlbs, u might end up snapping a bolt or two, i just ended up going 13ftlbs
Will this part fit 2009 mazda speed3 ? Thanks
What are the part numbers on those parts i
Need to get them so I could put them on my mazda5
Links are in my description! Thank you for watching!
Oil filter housing to block torque spec is 21 ft pounds
I do have a question do you have to bleed the coolant? Or just top it off? 😊
@@heartseasebliss1152 I believe bleeding is necessary since air has entered the system by doing this repair.
So if I don’t want to do the conversion and I just replace the seal and gasket and use the OEM housing well It stop the leak?
If I understood your question correctly, you're asking if you can just replace the seal between your old oil cooler and old housing? If so, yes you technically can and it's cheaper that way however it will leak again in no time. I've done that method the first time and it didn't last long so I decided to switch to the Japanese oil cooler. Let me know if this answers your question.
@@jggarage1807 Thank you yes I just need to stop my leak temporary until I could save enough to do the conversion
Completely understandable. You can find the seal on Amazon. I have it linked in the description.
tank you very much
You're welcome! Thanks for watching! Don't forget to subscribe and give the video a like!
My old bolt worked. I was wondering why you really need the new bolt. You emphasized it a lot.
Which bolt in particular?
@@jggarage1807 the new one you got with the new pump and oil conversion kit. The big one that goes in the top.
@@MaSta74372 That's interesting. At the time when I did research to do this project, I learned that I needed to replace the bolt to the updated bolt when using the updated cooler. I never bothered comparing the two bolts but now I wish I did. The two bolts however are different part numbers so I figured it was just different. Here's a diagram showing both set ups (old & new) with the respective bolt with part number.
ci.catcar.info/mazda_2018_02/usa/2E08RU1.png
@@jggarage1807 hmmm. Odd. The more you know.
I'm trying to do this on my base model 2004 mazda 6 and idk what the coolant hosing connects to. There's two closed connections on the bottom of the radiator, but I feel like it should be connected somewhere else. Can anyone help inform me?
Did you have to remove all coolant or did you loose a lot of coolant when you removed those hoses?
I didn't remove all the coolant but when you remove the hoses, you'll loose some. So you'll need to refill your coolant and bleed the air.
Do you lube the gaskets before putting them on?
I didn't at the time since people at the forum told me it's not needed since it doesn't spin but looking at the diagram in the video, looks like there was a oil can symbol. I think adding a little would be fine.
I have a 2005 mazda sp3, seems same 2.3 l as 2007, seems a silly question but they specify 2007 models, would this work on a 2005 the same?
Yes but the only difference is you would need to buy the oil filter housing without the oil cooler adapter which is on top of the housing. I have a link to that part in my description however it seems to be out of stock on Amazon right now.
Hello JG.My Mazda 5 , 2L, oil mixed with water into my water tank. How can fix that? Is it oil cooler default?
Hey there. The oil cooler gasket that normally fails is between the oil cooler and the oil filter housing. Only oil passes through this gasket. Coolant runs inside through the oil cooler and is a closed system and shouldn't mix with the oil there. I haven't heard/seen where the oil cooler actually breaks and causes internal coolant leaking into the oil. Usually coolant mixed with oil is a head gasket issue. Have you overheated?
Just cleaning the oil pressure sender won’t stop it leaking. It needs a new sender unit- they only last a few years.
Which one exactly are you referring to? The sensor that screws into the housing?
Does this work for a speed6?
Why do you use 5w-40 instead of the factory 5w-30
When I first got the car and researched which oil to get, I came across a lot of forum threads suggesting and recommending Shell's Rotella T6. Since then, I've only used T6 during oil changes however, people have claimed that the newer T6 version has changed and may not be as good as before. I don't know anything about this to prove it or not. It's just something I've came across and read in forums or FB Mazdaspeed pages. I do want to mention also that when going through forums and pages, I do see a lot of people saying to just get a good quality synthetic 5w-30 and all should be good. Now to answer your question about why 5w-40, I will just copy/paste from a thread that basically sums up the answer:
"1) Mazda released a TSB to use 5W-40 oil to mitigate the smoking in idle issues. The thicker oil supposedly will not seep out of the seals as much as -30 oil.
2) Years of data and used oil analysis on the platform showed that the T6 is very good for these engines. Part of the reason is since it is diesel-specific and thus designed for direct-injection, it resists fuel dilution much better."
Now I don't know the credibility of the person who wrote that but that's basically what people have consistently said online and what I have read.
So are you a mechanic as a day job ? Detailer enthusiast
No I am not a mechanic. Just a DIYer. haha
Can this be done on 2005 mazda 6i 2.3?
I have included a link for the oil filter conversion housing for Mazda models without the oil cooler in the video description. Please check it out and confirm it will work for your application. I believe it will fit for your 2005 Mazda 6i 2.3 based on the reviews and questions asked on the listing regarding your year and model but please double check.
This is a good video but noooooo not worm clamps bro. Replace with new constant tension clamps. So much better and far less chance of leaks.
I don't think your gasket failed - they way you installed the oil pressure sensor was wrong - you need to put joint compound on it. That is probably where your oil is leaking from.
It is indeed the gasket that failed because the leak is coming from above the oil pressure sensor. It is leaking from the mating joint of the oil cooler above and the oil filter housing below so that only indicated the oil cooler gasket. Also, I never touched or removed the oil pressure sensor during the first repair when I just replaced the gasket with the original oil cooler. Before this video, I did wonder if I needed to put any kind of sealant on the oil pressure sensor threads and from what I read online and group pages, I learned it was not necessary and I saw someone use Teflon tape but I wasn't comfortable using that. Ever since this video was made to today, the whole repair hasn't leaked, neither from the oil cooler nor from the oil pressure sensor.
Hi where did you get the converter at please
Hello, thanks for watching! The link for the converter housing is in the description.
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Out of curiosity, the Amazon listing has people saying this isn’t the part for a Mazdaspeed3. However, it looks exactly the same as the edge auto sport one but way cheaper. Are the Amazon guys right? Or is this in fact the part?
Which part are you talking about specifically? The oil filter housing conversion?
@@jggarage1807 yes! The oil filter housing conversion itself.
@@originalmarshmello oh yeah then that's definitely the part. It shares with different models. I just checked the Amazon link in my description and I don't see anyone saying it's not for the Mazdaspeed. The listing title however doesn't mention Mazdaspeed but it's compatible. The part number matches.
No need to drain the coolant?
@@vicv.2720 not necessary. Just fill back what was lost and bleed.
14:10 Anyone find out what the torque specs are for the oil filter housing? Thx
Turn it until it’s on as tight as it will go
@@Davo996 Thanks, I was wondering if that's the best way. Getting a torque-wrench in there seems practically impossible.
i have a 2010 ms3 i bought the car a few months ago and it has this catch can literally 10 minutes ago it just started leaking oil like crazy all over lost probably 4 or 5 quarts in about 5 mins um idk what to do i cant track it down cuz there's literally oil everywhere but the catch can keeps filling up. which i though was weird cuz i can just keep emptying it so idk if it just built pressure or something and blew a line bc its not coming from around the oil pan area but both the lines to the catch can are still on. and ofc the geniuses at Mazda don't have a oil pressure gauge on the car if anyone can help please let me know
Have you tried filling it up with oil again and try running it and see where it would leak specifically? Maybe lay a cardboard down and see which specific spot it's coming from that way you can track it. I know you said there's oil everywhere so that would be a challenge unless you try to clean as much as you can so the leak can be more recognizable.
@@jggarage1807 sorry i forgot i commented on a couple pages i figured it out a day or two after this (oil filter was put on wayyyy too tight i basically had two half's by the time i got it off im guessing it built pressure and blew the gasket) i replaced it and its working fine now.
That is a petrol or diesel engine?
Petrol engine.
so that explains why my battery case had oil under it
I did this mod a few years back cause mine was leaking
Nice! I appreciate you still watching even though you've already done it! Don't forget to like and subscribe!
This is what happen when ford touch a Japanese car -.- Thank god for the updated oil filter
Haha right? It seems like the Ford components looked more complicated as well.
Those hose clamps are trash man don’t use an inferior product
@@CSTLLNS I didn't know at the time that clamp type mattered but I'm happy to say to this day, it's held up. Maybe if I ever need to touch it again, I can put the original clamps back on. Thanks for watching!
@ no worries man great video! Honestly it’s more of a problem if you have extreme weather changes like up north. The constant tension clamps take care of auto adjustment due to climate as needed.
You go from genuine Mazda clamps to Walmart clamps lmao…. Junk
It is likely Mazda doesn't make their own clamps and gets them from a supplier since they are just clamps. The clamps I bought work just fine and didn't seem to be super thin or flimsy. If you'll be doing this repair, feel free to use the original clamps or any clamps of your choosing. Thanks for watching!
Using plyers to break the coolant hoses loose is safer 🥸