It's probably over 20 years since I last set up a carb'. Skills long since forgotten; so I came in search of some instruction. Your video is perfect. Thank you.
I commented before with a thumbs up and looked again to be sure I had it right. This is as good as it gets AMERICAN AND CANADIAN PEOPLE WHO SPEAK WESTERN ENGLISH ! He is such a clear speaker. Good job S&S I love my carburetor.
The S&S Super "E" is the Carter/Edelbrock AFB carburetor of the V-Twin world. IDK why so many folks hate on it. I understand that the Japanese Mikuni carbs are great and all but the S&S does the same job if you have them jetted & tuned right. Plus, it just fits/goes with/agrees with my American Hawg...💪🏾🇺🇲
Thank you S&S, because you posted this video, I now do not have to change my wifes carburetor! I made the adjustments you showed and the bike is running way better. You Rock!
I used to be a Harley rider with S&S E carb all the time. I'm sure it was the best carb ever met! I still shockingly remember the first time l changed to S&S E carb 20years ago. l realized the Harley was very fast and fun riding on highway! so l really wanna say thank you.👍
Thank you very much for an easy to understand lesson. My S&S G ran differently, for some unknown reason, after I completely rebuilt the EVO motor, so I needed some guidance which you gave in flying colors!
Thanks, I had my Iron head sportster into two shops and came out bad each time. This morning I followed your video direction and in ten minutes had it running decent and in 20 had it running well. First shop changed jetted it out to 60 and the mixture screw bottomed and messed up the slot. The second thought it was electrical and tight pushrods and had the accelerator pump bottomed.
Thank you for the vid! I just bought an 86 electra with a new carb on it, but the settings were way off, making it hard to start in the mornings and would even backfire sometimes. Runs like a dream now!
I've rebuilt numerous carbs but I've never had to touch my E on my 1999 Indian CMC 88 cu. in. Great carb... thanks for video... love your product and your 88 cu.in engine also
Ive bought a used 98 heritage softail with a super G, and I´ve had issues with the idle on it. It would not run at idle without adjusting the enricher, but when warm it would use too much fuel. When I then turned the enricher down, I would stall at intersections and so on. Turns out the Idle mixture screw was screwed all the way in, and the idle speed screw wasn´t even touching the throttle stop. Before adjusting I had to buy an aftermarket tachometer to accurately see the RPM so I could adjust it correctly, as the heritage comes without it. Thanks for this video, it really helped me!
s&s, thnx for the video, i picked up a used 02 heritage with the s&s carb. i was changing the plugs and noticed they were sooty black so i'm gonna check the mixture screw adj. it doesn't seem much different than any other carb i've worked on over the years.
Always buy a new s&s complete kit. It has everything you need to set up a wonderful Harley. My 1985 FXRS Low Glide got a new E complete kit and it runs so great it brings me to tears sometimes.
I just bought a used Heritage its a 97 has an S&S on it and since I've never had an S&S carb I didn't know how to adjust it . well it kept dying at idle so I idled it up but it still kept dying this helped me get my bike idling like its suppose to thanks
I was a fool and adjusting the mixture screw thinking it was the idle speed screw since I’m used to cars where the idle speed screw is usually more pronounced and textured for finger adjusting. THANK YOU for sparing me cleaning spark plugs every week.....RIP my starter & battery....it was too late
So I've done this a few times. I have to keep choke pulled up to at least half to keep bike running, and that's after it's warmed up, too. When I increase idle adjustment, the rpms go waaay to high. I've tried adjusting the fuel air mixture to be more lean and it's just not working out. Can't get it to where choke can be pushed all the way down . There is no tach on bike. It's a 99 Sportster XLH 1200 that has been sitting for awhile.
bruce, so i put new ngk iridium plugs in got some fresh gas and adj . the mixture and idle screws and what a difference, way better. mixture was off just a little but big now AOK. thnx, steve
I've been kicking a 70 ironhead 900 for about a year now today I got a couple of puffs I was so happy, now my coil is getting pretty hot and I'm not getting spark anymore
Video was very helpful as i was not familliar much with the accelator pump settings or oe settings for my s&s super e when i bought it the bike ran like a dog due to somone not tuning it in properly
Another way on evolution motors is the smell of your exhaust. A overwhelming raw gas smell means its running too rich, a dry, running alcohol smell means its too lean. PLEASE correct me I'm wrong. Knowledable input from the source of sources (S&S) is invaluable to me and alotta others.
Hi Bruce thanks so much for the excellent videos you guys do so so helpful. I’ve just bought my first Harley! At 64🙈 it’s an old iron head xlh 1000 1984 stock but with the S&S super E on it Jets are 0.66 and 28 are theses correct for model as it runs rich ! Is there a web sit I can get some info on this ?
I just put a new s and s super e. There is a vent that is not covered by the tear drop air cleaner. I have a different air cleaner that does cover that small air vent hole. It’s not running well. What would some of the symptoms be from covering up that small air vent hole?
1990 Electra glide with super e carbutetor, on hot days at operating temperature the idle drops below 500rpm causing the oil light to remain on at idle. The bike rides and idles fine any other time when not up to hot temp. The problem persists even after turning up the idle. Im wondering if it could be loading up or if the reset procedure would help. Recently purchased the bike from an estate but i do know it has bigger jugs and a slight cam installed at around 50k with currently 86k on the dial. Replaced a metal fuel line with rubber line suspecting possible gas boiling but this did not resolve either.
Ok, I rebuilt me super e, I have a 2000 indian chief with an 80/88 ci engine. I put a 72 main jet, 29.5 secondary. I idle good, but get some puffs coming out of carb once in a while, and a flat spot midrange, then it kicks in again. Will these adjustments help with that
I have 1330 S&S been off the road in storage for 2 years before that it kept fouling plugs, any idea what it maybe? Also started happening after i got my carby changed Thanks
Love this stuff turns out the harley guy that I bought my harley from was wrong about ss. Tunes thank you s,s for letting me get my s,s tuned right....
? I'm trying to learn . My bike is now running thankyou. However I don't have RPM's. It seems it blup blup,blup.but when I ride the throttle is hesitant.? Start over?
Thank you for the great video. Im helping a buddy rebuild his S&S-0388s shorty. I’m Trying to find the proper rebuild kit (gaskets and o-rings). I was told i first to to Identify whether it is an E or G. I don’t see any other part numbers except a (PAT #5128071) can you lend me any tips on identifying which carb? Its a custom build s&s motor as well. Thank you
Bruce I have a Softail with 96 "S&S engine which is nozzle 74 and 295 which worked fine with Hooker 2 to 1 system. But have now switched to supertrapp mean mother 2 to 2 and installed muffler V&H Quiet with the result that engine dies at 30% throttle and stumbling / sputtering in air filter. Should I go down on both main jet and intermediate jet? Or do you have a setup for 96 "engine and mufflers? Or a link to a video that shows how to proceed with nozzle of super e? Thank you so much.
Bruce, need guidance Sir. I have a 99 Chief, i am the original owner. The S&S runs great when the tank is full at 5.8 gallons topped off, when engine is at operating temp and low level in the tank the engine sputters. I have learned to deal with it by always keeping the tanks full. On the occasion when the tanks is low, I go to reserve and take the fuel caps off and the bike runs much better. Any suggestions? thanks
I have a super e on my 1200 sportster it has 28/70 jets does that sound correct? It idles good runs pretty decent I have tried this process like 3 times seems like no matter what I do the plugs foul after a ride if I get it too lean it starts popping out of the carb while down shifting if I try and go richer the plugs are really black and trying to take off from stoplights you have to ease into it or it starts spitting until you give it a lot of gas ….guess I have a picky one
I have a 2000 fatboy with SE heads cams ignition boosted to 95 CI. With a CV carb. Which carb should I use super e or g. It has just a little under 100 hp. Thanks so much. John
With a 95 inch motor, we would recommend a Super E for most applications. If you are strictly using this bike for drag racing, you could go with a Super G. It would give you slightly better top end HP, but it would not have the low end response the smaller Super E would give you.
I bought a S & S carburetor kit for my 1998 Fatboy , never installed it , Does this carburetor kit work on a 1991 FXRS Low Rider? I bought the complete carb kit with intake and air cleaner , do I need a different intake to make this carb kit work on the `1991 Low Rider?
TWINCAM88 TWINCAM88 Your 1998 engine has a different breather system than the 1991. The crankcase breather is routed through the heads and directly into the air cleaner in 1993-'99 models. The 1991 engine has a hose that comes out of the crankcase and goes to the air cleaner. The back plate and hardware in each application are different. The simplest thing to do would be to get the 1993-99 style air cleaner S&S Part #17-0404. The manifold in the kit you have will fit just fine.
Hi Bruce, what can be a problem if when hot engine and I stop at traffic light (for instance ) the revolutions goes down very slowly even until it reaches idle speed. Its not me alone having this problem. please advise.
so if the tip of my spark plug is white it means it is too lean correct? in which case i would rotate the mixture screw counter clockwise a bit to make it a little more rich. and then adjust the idol screw again.
+Mark M Rajchel Keep in mind that the idle mixture screw only effects the mixture at idle. You will need to install larger jets to make the mixture richer while you are driving. But you are right that you will have to readjust the idle mixture and idle speed after a jet change!
With engine idling, turn accelerator adjustment screw clockwise until it lightly seats. Snap throttle open - the engine should stumble. Turn screw counter-clockwise 1⁄4 or 1⁄2 of a turn at a time, until engine responds to throttle twist with smooth, quick response. Ride the motorcycle in various rpm ranges, and then try to maintain a consistent 40- to 50-mph. If the engine has a flat spot or is popping/sneezing in the air cleaner, it can indicate a lean condition. If you notice stumbling or sputtering, it can indicate a rich condition.
Hi, I bought s&s super e for my sportster xlh883 1986, with carb i get 11 jets plus them in the carb, 66,68,70,72,74,76,78/28, 31/265,295 please advice, which one should i instal? Thanks
Start with the .0265 intermediate and the .066 main, and see how it runs. A lot will depend on your exhaust, and if you have done any other mods to the motor. You may need to change the jets for the best performance.
hi bruce, i just bought a 2002 heritage with an s&s carb from a private sale. i had to adjust the idle cause it kept stalling so i did that and it's fine. i went out for about 20 min ride and noticed some drops of water coming off the air filter and down onto the engine near the cam cover, not a lot but some drops. definately not gaaoline. is this condensed water from something and is it normal or a problem? outside air temp. was 65F. thanx, steve
@@SSCycleInc meaning getting tuned after installing the carb? I would definitely get it tuned after changing anything engine related. I was just checking to see what your thoughts were regarding HD telling me I’d be wasting my time putting this carburetor with my stock engine.
Yes exactly what we mean. Like you say, after doing anything engine wise, a retune is essential. We would not consider the E as wasteful for your stock engine though.
concerniong the accelerator pump can you tell me if looking into the venturi and twisting the throttle I should get a single stream or three streams, We have a serious dead spot as though the pump is not 100%
james milewski The accelerator pump is designed to spray in a fan pattern, although some of the very early Super E & G carbs had a single drilled hole in the accelerator pump nozzle. If you have three strong streams it will still work fine. I would ask if the dead spot you mentioned is just off idle? That's what the accelerator pump is supposed to correct. If you have a dead spot in the mid rpm range, we would suspect an exhaust problem. That's a classic drag pipe symptom. I might be a good idea to call us at 608-627-1497 and select the tech dept.
S&S Cycle, Inc thanks for the good advice, it's a friends bike and though there is that fan spray (looks like three streams left to right), I don't know if they are strong, to my eyes they look weak, and one being even less than the other two
The two carbs are identical except that the Super E has 1-7/8" throat and the Super G has a 2-1/16" throat. For most applications, the Super E works well with engine 100" or less, and the Super G is best for engines 100" and larger.
its a good video on HOW TO SET UP SUPPER E WHO KNOWS BETTER the people who do it daily or a drunken friend ? kick starter are great for DEAD batt. GOOD JOB Bruce i like the bike
Bruce. I recently found an old super E shorty in a barn. It appears that a guerrilla may have worked on it. The idle mixture screw has been tweeked off flush with the body. What is your advice for safely extracting the remainder without damaging the body. I'm not a machinist so I don't really want to attempt an ez out..
kk. Thanks S&S. Ive been buying from you guys since the early eighties at a shop in Amarillo, Texas across from the infamous Longhorn bar lol. Ride safe.
+FUGYOO You probably got it sorted, but if not that is pretty much a machinist job and if you have a good carb or carb body I'd hand that to the machinist too so he can use it to align his setup. Viewing a good idle mixture screw will let him choose appropriate bits. It's a fiddly job but even if the body threads got hurt there is probably enough room for a threaded insert. Someone who does clock repairs at a pro level could also do the work.
Ob Fuscated Oh cool. Thanks so much. I just threw my old SU back on the shovel for now. I swear by the SU, fantastic carb. I've just heard so much about the SnS and I found it in my barn.
+FUGYOO The SU is a constant velocity carb whose principle is the same as the later stock Harley CV althought they have a diaphragm instead of an SU-style piston. Many people run the CV carbs on Shovels and if you need a carb while overhauling your SU one of those ain't a bad idea. I'd try to fix the S&S but mostly for the challenge. You could also strip it for parts and snag another body at a swap meet or via Ebay. It's not likely to run better than a properly set up SU.
Never heard of a CV but will look into it. Only thing Ive ever had to do with my SU"s is swap a needle, which Rivera used to send 3 with the carb in the 70's, when I would relocate to a diverse elevation. And a shot of WD on the piston once a week. Out in the Oklahoma Panhandle maybe thrice a week because of the haboos and dry climate. A lot of friends ran the SnS carbs on their shovels in the 70's and 80's and swore by them. They would talk about the all elusive and hard to find Super E. A now I have one lol. Yes, I really want to fix this golden goose egg and give it a shot on my ...yellow shovel. LOL. Thanks Ob. Ride safe bro.
If the black stuff on the plugs is powdery and dry looking, you should try changing your jetting. Try some smaller jets, but change them one at a time so you can evaluate the effects. You might also check your float level and test the seal of your needle and seat. If there's too much gas in the bowl the engine will run rich. On rare occasions, a weak ignition system will foul the plugs, darken the pipes and even blow black smoke, but the bike generally runs pretty bad in those cases. If the black stuff on the plugs is wet looking or scaly, that would indicate that oil is being burned in the combustion chamber. Does your engine blow smoke? Black smoke indicates over rich mixture, but blue smoke means that you've struck oil! If you still have problems, call S&S at 608-627-1497 and select the tech dept from the menu.
It's probably over 20 years since I last set up a carb'. Skills long since forgotten; so I came in search of some instruction. Your video is perfect. Thank you.
Glad to help
I commented before with a thumbs up and looked again to be sure I had it right. This is as good as it gets AMERICAN AND CANADIAN PEOPLE WHO SPEAK WESTERN ENGLISH ! He is such a clear speaker. Good job S&S I love my carburetor.
Thank you! We’re glad you’ve found it so helpful!
This is the most informative, clear and concise video on carb adjustment I’ve seen. Thank you so much.
Mr. Tessmer.......You gave me THE LIGTH with my carburetor.
You have all my respect Sir !!!!!!
Greetings from Ciudad de México.
10 year old video. And it's spot on. Thanks for sharing S&S. Bruce is awesome. I can totally understand him
Glad you enjoyed it!
The S&S Super "E" is the Carter/Edelbrock AFB carburetor of the V-Twin world.
IDK why so many folks hate on it. I understand that the Japanese Mikuni carbs are great and all but the S&S does the same job if you have them jetted & tuned right. Plus, it just fits/goes with/agrees with my American Hawg...💪🏾🇺🇲
Very informative, I appreciate how he showed the steps while the engine was running. Thank you
This was such a great help! I turned my custom chopper the best it's ever ran. Thank you so much.
Glad it helped!
I just bought a 88 softail with this carb on it. This will be SO helpful man... thank you!!!! 👍
Glad we could help!
Thanks! Just rebuilt a Super E and found this vid (along with the schematic from the site) to be very helpful!
Thank you S&S, because you posted this video, I now do not have to change my wifes carburetor! I made the adjustments you showed and the bike is running way better. You Rock!
How do You set float level ?
How do you set float level?
I used to be a Harley rider with S&S E carb all the time. I'm sure it was the best carb ever met! I still shockingly remember the first time l changed to S&S E carb 20years ago. l realized the Harley was very fast and fun riding on highway! so l really wanna say thank you.👍
You are welcome!
This helped me big time. My bike would only run if the choke was up a bit. After using this , now it runs perfect. Thanks
Thanks for sharing! Glad it worked out.
Thank you very much for an easy to understand lesson. My S&S G ran differently, for some unknown reason, after I completely rebuilt the EVO motor, so I needed some guidance which you gave in flying colors!
These videos are spectacular. A huge help on my '96 FXSTSB rebuild. Thanks, Mr. Tessmer!
This helped me! Bike was running very rich! Started at the baseline, now it’s running amazing
Glad it helped get you sorted out!
Thanks, I had my Iron head sportster into two shops and came out bad each time. This morning I followed your video direction and in ten minutes had it running decent and in 20 had it running well. First shop changed jetted it out to 60 and the mixture screw bottomed and messed up the slot. The second thought it was electrical and tight pushrods and had the accelerator pump bottomed.
Thank you for the vid! I just bought an 86 electra with a new carb on it, but the settings were way off, making it hard to start in the mornings and would even backfire sometimes. Runs like a dream now!
wckdclwn911 Pleased to be of service!
I've rebuilt numerous carbs but I've never had to touch my E on my 1999 Indian CMC 88 cu. in. Great carb... thanks for video... love your product and your 88 cu.in engine also
I followed the instructions for my super e shorty on my 1994 FXR lowrider and it worked like a charm, (after cleaning). Dont be afraid.
Thanks!
Ive bought a used 98 heritage softail with a super G, and I´ve had issues with the idle on it. It would not run at idle without adjusting the enricher, but when warm it would use too much fuel. When I then turned the enricher down, I would stall at intersections and so on. Turns out the Idle mixture screw was screwed all the way in, and the idle speed screw wasn´t even touching the throttle stop. Before adjusting I had to buy an aftermarket tachometer to accurately see the RPM so I could adjust it correctly, as the heritage comes without it. Thanks for this video, it really helped me!
Glad you got it figured out and this video was able to help!
s&s, thnx for the video, i picked up a used 02 heritage with the s&s carb. i was changing the plugs and noticed they were sooty black so i'm gonna check the mixture screw adj. it doesn't seem much different than any other carb i've worked on over the years.
Always buy a new s&s complete kit. It has everything you need to set up a wonderful Harley. My 1985 FXRS Low Glide got a new E complete kit and it runs so great it brings me to tears sometimes.
Thanks Richard. A well running bike is indeed a thing of beauty!
This worked amazing on my 2003 sportster 1200!!! Much love
Thanks for this video. I've been banging my head trying to set up the S&S on my '77 Ironhead.
Have a 94' Sportster that was bogging when I accelerated and went through the video and boom, fixed! thanks a ton!
A kick-start! Golly mister, that sure is neat.
It's the latest thing! Everybody will be using them in the future!
That's ok, I WANT to change the cover back to a kicker
I just bought a used Heritage its a 97 has an S&S on it and since I've never had an S&S carb I didn't know how to adjust it . well it kept dying at idle so I idled it up but it still kept dying this helped me get my bike idling like its suppose to thanks
Glad it helped you out so you can enjoy your new bike!
@@SSCycleInc I just did a basis rebuild kit and my fuel is running out the overflow hose any link or video to adjust my float possibly
This worked great on my tried and true S&S Super B on my 1983 FXWG Shovelhead ! Thanks for posting !
I was a fool and adjusting the mixture screw thinking it was the idle speed screw since I’m used to cars where the idle speed screw is usually more pronounced and textured for finger adjusting. THANK YOU for sparing me cleaning spark plugs every week.....RIP my starter & battery....it was too late
So I've done this a few times. I have to keep choke pulled up to at least half to keep bike running, and that's after it's warmed up, too. When I increase idle adjustment, the rpms go waaay to high. I've tried adjusting the fuel air mixture to be more lean and it's just not working out. Can't get it to where choke can be pushed all the way down . There is no tach on bike. It's a 99 Sportster XLH 1200 that has been sitting for awhile.
Sounds like you might have a blocked main jet. If the gasoline sits in the float bowl for a while, it turns to varnish and blocks up the main jet.
Love that I get to dial my carb in and huff some air out of my nose.
Bloody hell, that actually made sense to me. Thanks a lot, not as scary as I thought!
+JonBonDonegan Pleased to be of service!
You should make an instructional video on how to properly make an instructional video! 10/10 A+ Thank you Sir
Thanks so much. No more drag racing. Im 63. But on the street thats a different story. Lol. Thanks again.
Thanks Bruce, did it just as you described and it's never run better.
bruce, so i put new ngk iridium plugs in got some fresh gas and adj . the mixture and idle screws and what a difference, way better. mixture was off just a little but big now AOK. thnx, steve
Happy to help!
I've been kicking a 70 ironhead 900 for about a year now today I got a couple of puffs I was so happy, now my coil is getting pretty hot and I'm not getting spark anymore
Video was very helpful as i was not familliar much with the accelator pump settings or oe settings for my s&s super e when i bought it the bike ran like a dog due to somone not tuning it in properly
Another way on evolution motors is the smell of your exhaust. A overwhelming raw gas smell means its running too rich, a dry, running alcohol smell means its too lean. PLEASE correct me I'm wrong. Knowledable input from the source of sources (S&S) is invaluable to me and alotta others.
thank you for your help, register my S&S tomorrow
Nice one trying to get mine right .
But won't start after stopping unless the enricher is on then fire's up
I love this carb, because there is nothing "hi-tech" in there... just a very simple carb...
Simple junk!
@@theoriginalmungamanagreed. Thinking about converting my dads chief to a mikuni 😅
Hi Bruce thanks so much for the excellent videos you guys do so so helpful.
I’ve just bought my first Harley! At 64🙈 it’s an old iron head xlh 1000 1984 stock but with the S&S super E on it
Jets are 0.66 and 28 are theses correct for model as it runs rich ! Is there a web sit I can get some info on this ?
Your the man !! Thanks again, have urself a happy and safe new year!!!!
In the idle speed ..to open you refer 1/2(half turn ) or 1 and half 👍
at 1:59? That is 1/2 (half) turn.
Great vid...worked like a champ on my Super E
I just put a new s and s super e. There is a vent that is not covered by the tear drop air cleaner.
I have a different air cleaner that does cover that small air vent hole.
It’s not running well. What would some of the symptoms be from covering up that small air vent hole?
1990 Electra glide with super e carbutetor, on hot days at operating temperature the idle drops below 500rpm causing the oil light to remain on at idle. The bike rides and idles fine any other time when not up to hot temp. The problem persists even after turning up the idle. Im wondering if it could be loading up or if the reset procedure would help. Recently purchased the bike from an estate but i do know it has bigger jugs and a slight cam installed at around 50k with currently 86k on the dial. Replaced a metal fuel line with rubber line suspecting possible gas boiling but this did not resolve either.
Sent an email today through the website. Guess i should have come to utube first. Wish me luck
Ok, I rebuilt me super e, I have a 2000 indian chief with an 80/88 ci engine. I put a 72 main jet, 29.5 secondary. I idle good, but get some puffs coming out of carb once in a while, and a flat spot midrange, then it kicks in again. Will these adjustments help with that
good morning Bruce
what do you recommend as a setting?
for a shorty on a shovelhead 72 in main and 29.5 in pilot?
I have 1330 S&S been off the road in storage for 2 years before that it kept fouling plugs, any idea what it maybe? Also started happening after i got my carby changed
Thanks
Much thanks! runs way better!
Glad to hear it!
Love this stuff turns out the harley guy that I bought my harley from was wrong about ss. Tunes thank you s,s for letting me get my s,s tuned right....
Excellent tutorial thank you very much
? I'm trying to learn . My bike is now running thankyou. However I don't have RPM's. It seems it blup blup,blup.but when I ride the throttle is hesitant.? Start over?
Thank you for the great video. Im helping a buddy rebuild his S&S-0388s shorty. I’m Trying to find the proper rebuild kit (gaskets and o-rings). I was told i first to to Identify whether it is an E or G. I don’t see any other part numbers except a (PAT #5128071) can you lend me any tips on identifying which carb? Its a custom build s&s motor as well. Thank you
Bruce I have a Softail with 96 "S&S engine which is nozzle 74 and 295 which worked fine with Hooker 2 to 1 system. But have now switched to supertrapp mean mother 2 to 2 and installed muffler V&H Quiet with the result that engine dies at 30% throttle and stumbling / sputtering in air filter. Should I go down on both main jet and intermediate jet? Or do you have a setup for 96 "engine and mufflers? Or a link to a video that shows how to proceed with nozzle of super e? Thank you so much.
Hey John, reach out to our tech team directly with an email to sstech@sscycle.com or a phone call to +1 608-627-1958
Do you need to take carburetor off to do this ? Mine even after doing this still runs at extremely high idle
What if im in high elevation in Colorado would i need to figure jetting first before tunning it woth the 3 adjustment screws
You'll need to adjust fuel delivery to match reduced oxygen intake at higher altitudes.
I’m having trouble figuring out what size main jet to use. Where I live the elevation is about 6,400 feet. Any suggestions?
Drop us an email over to Tech@SSCycle.com with specifics on your carb, engine, and elevation and our tech folks will help you out!
Bruce, need guidance Sir. I have a 99 Chief, i am the original owner. The S&S runs great when the tank is full at 5.8 gallons topped off, when engine is at operating temp and low level in the tank the engine sputters. I have learned to deal with it by always keeping the tanks full. On the occasion when the tanks is low, I go to reserve and take the fuel caps off and the bike runs much better. Any suggestions? thanks
Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Send us an email to sstech@sscycle.com and we can help you troubleshoot it.
I have a super e on my 1200 sportster it has 28/70 jets does that sound correct? It idles good runs pretty decent I have tried this process like 3 times seems like no matter what I do the plugs foul after a ride if I get it too lean it starts popping out of the carb while down shifting if I try and go richer the plugs are really black and trying to take off from stoplights you have to ease into it or it starts spitting until you give it a lot of gas ….guess I have a picky one
Hey Travis, drop us an email over to sstech@sscycle.com with the full details of your build. They love trouble shooting & will get you taken care of.
@@SSCycleInc thank you just sent one over
@@SSCycleInc I wouldn’t suggest emailing tech unless you like 2 word answers
I have a 2000 fatboy with SE heads cams ignition boosted to 95 CI. With a CV carb. Which carb should I use super e or g. It has just a little under 100 hp. Thanks so much. John
With a 95 inch motor, we would recommend a Super E for most applications. If you are strictly using this bike for drag racing, you could go with a Super G. It would give you slightly better top end HP, but it would not have the low end response the smaller Super E would give you.
you are one smart cookie. You were right on. Thanks
Great video! 😊
Thank you!
I bought a S & S carburetor kit for my 1998 Fatboy , never installed it , Does this carburetor kit work on a 1991 FXRS Low Rider? I bought the complete carb kit with intake and air cleaner , do I need a different intake to make this carb kit work on the `1991 Low Rider?
TWINCAM88 TWINCAM88 Your 1998 engine has a different breather system than the 1991. The crankcase breather is routed through the heads and directly into the air cleaner in 1993-'99 models. The 1991 engine has a hose that comes out of the crankcase and goes to the air cleaner. The back plate and hardware in each application are different. The simplest thing to do would be to get the 1993-99 style air cleaner S&S Part #17-0404. The manifold in the kit you have will fit just fine.
S&S Cycle, Inc
Hi Bruce, what can be a problem if when hot engine and I stop at traffic light (for instance ) the revolutions goes down very slowly even until it reaches idle speed. Its not me alone having this problem. please advise.
Could be a couple of things. Sticky throttle cable will cause that as well as an air leak in the intake manifold.
so if the tip of my spark plug is white it means it is too lean correct? in which case i would rotate the mixture screw counter clockwise a bit to make it a little more rich. and then adjust the idol screw again.
+Mark M Rajchel Keep in mind that the idle mixture screw only effects the mixture at idle. You will need to install larger jets to make the mixture richer while you are driving. But you are right that you will have to readjust the idle mixture and idle speed after a jet change!
Alright sounds good. Thanks.
Thanks pops
bruce, what's the best way to make sure mixture is not too lean? thnx, steve
With engine idling, turn accelerator adjustment screw
clockwise until it lightly seats. Snap throttle open -
the engine should stumble. Turn screw counter-clockwise 1⁄4
or 1⁄2 of a turn at a time, until engine responds to throttle
twist with smooth, quick response.
Ride the motorcycle in various rpm ranges, and then try to
maintain a consistent 40- to 50-mph. If the engine has
a flat spot or is popping/sneezing in the air cleaner, it
can indicate a lean condition. If you notice stumbling or
sputtering, it can indicate a rich condition.
Very helpful info, thanks for video
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for all this.
what size jets would I need for my super e at 7500 ft elevation? for my 94 springer softail
Hey Joey, drop us an email at SSTech@SSCycle.com and we will talk through the specifics with you.
Hi,
I bought s&s super e for my sportster xlh883 1986, with carb i get 11 jets plus them in the carb, 66,68,70,72,74,76,78/28,
31/265,295 please advice, which one should i instal?
Thanks
Start with the .0265 intermediate and the .066 main, and see how it runs. A lot will depend on your exhaust, and if you have done any other mods to the motor. You may need to change the jets for the best performance.
Thank you
Pod filters on a keihin cvk36 carb, jetting tricks
hi bruce, i just bought a 2002 heritage with an s&s carb from a private sale. i had to adjust the idle cause it kept stalling so i did that and it's fine. i went out for about 20 min ride and noticed some drops of water coming off the air filter and down onto the engine near the cam cover, not a lot but some drops. definately not gaaoline. is this condensed water from something and is it normal or a problem? outside air temp. was 65F. thanx, steve
Hi Steve - please give our tech line a call at 608-627-1958 and they can go over what the issues might be.
Mr Tessmer What jetting is in a new e if I bought one, I have one on a HD that I bought but I think someone has messed with the jetting. Thank youj
72 and 29.5
The choke return spring is broken on my carburetor. Where can I buy a replacement spring? I don't have a working choke without it.
If you can't get one from s&s then go to JP cycle
Is the Super E carb run good with the stock engine? Guy at HD told me the super E carburetor without doing engine work is overkill
The E is a great carb, even for a stock engine set up. It will, of course, need to be adjusted for optimal performance no matter the application.
@@SSCycleInc meaning getting tuned after installing the carb? I would definitely get it tuned after changing anything engine related. I was just checking to see what your thoughts were regarding HD telling me I’d be wasting my time putting this carburetor with my stock engine.
Yes exactly what we mean. Like you say, after doing anything engine wise, a retune is essential.
We would not consider the E as wasteful for your stock engine though.
@@SSCycleInc would I get a significant performance upgrade with changing the stock carburetor to the Super E without any engine work or not really?
How to install right side cable from S&S carb
concerniong the accelerator pump can you tell me if looking into the venturi and twisting the throttle I should get a single stream or three streams, We have a serious dead spot as though the pump is not 100%
james milewski The accelerator pump is designed to spray in a fan pattern, although some of the very early Super E & G carbs had a single drilled hole in the accelerator pump nozzle. If you have three strong streams it will still work fine.
I would ask if the dead spot you mentioned is just off idle? That's what the accelerator pump is supposed to correct. If you have a dead spot in the mid rpm range, we would suspect an exhaust problem. That's a classic drag pipe symptom. I might be a good idea to call us at 608-627-1497 and select the tech dept.
S&S Cycle, Inc thanks for the good advice, it's a friends bike and though there is that fan spray (looks like three streams left to right), I don't know if they are strong, to my eyes they look weak, and one being even less than the other two
What's the difference between the Super E & G?
My carb don't have the accelerater pump screw. Why.
Awesome video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
Ever considered a new rear-tire?
whats the difference between super e and g carb?
The two carbs are identical except that the Super E has 1-7/8" throat and the Super G has a 2-1/16" throat. For most applications, the Super E works well with engine 100" or less, and the Super G is best for engines 100" and larger.
Thankyou for that well needed info
Liam Standish
my bike has a super g on a mild 95ci build should I get the super e it has horrible low end power only time it runs correctly is in high Rpms
Arturo Orosco go up one jet size on the low speed and go out a bit one accelerator.
Spot on 👌🏾
Thank you!
@@SSCycleInc do you have any video on adjusting throttle cables on s&s carburetor?
its a good video on HOW TO SET UP SUPPER E WHO KNOWS BETTER the people who do it daily or a drunken friend ? kick starter are great for DEAD batt. GOOD JOB Bruce i like the bike
I tried this, however the engine immediately races to full throttle and I have to hit the kill switch. Any suggestions?
Drop us a message with details on your carb, current jet settings, and engine specs to Tech@SSCycle.com and our tech team will help you out!
Hey man did you ever figure out what that was mine does the same thing
Bruce. I recently found an old super E shorty in a barn. It appears that a guerrilla may have worked on it. The idle mixture screw has been tweeked off flush with the body. What is your advice for safely extracting the remainder without damaging the body. I'm not a machinist so I don't really want to attempt an ez out..
kk. Thanks S&S. Ive been buying from you guys since the early eighties at a shop in Amarillo, Texas across from the infamous Longhorn bar lol. Ride safe.
+FUGYOO You probably got it sorted, but if not that is pretty much a machinist job and if you have a good carb or carb body I'd hand that to the machinist too so he can use it to align his setup. Viewing a good idle mixture screw will let him choose appropriate bits. It's a fiddly job but even if the body threads got hurt there is probably enough room for a threaded insert. Someone who does clock repairs at a pro level could also do the work.
Ob Fuscated
Oh cool. Thanks so much. I just threw my old SU back on the shovel for now. I swear by the SU, fantastic carb. I've just heard so much about the SnS and I found it in my barn.
+FUGYOO The SU is a constant velocity carb whose principle is the same as the later stock Harley CV althought they have a diaphragm instead of an SU-style piston. Many people run the CV carbs on Shovels and if you need a carb while overhauling your SU one of those ain't a bad idea. I'd try to fix the S&S but mostly for the challenge. You could also strip it for parts and snag another body at a swap meet or via Ebay. It's not likely to run better than a properly set up SU.
Never heard of a CV but will look into it. Only thing Ive ever had to do with my SU"s is swap a needle, which Rivera used to send 3 with the carb in the 70's, when I would relocate to a diverse elevation. And a shot of WD on the piston once a week. Out in the Oklahoma Panhandle maybe thrice a week because of the haboos and dry climate. A lot of friends ran the SnS carbs on their shovels in the 70's and 80's and swore by them. They would talk about the all elusive and hard to find Super E. A now I have one lol. Yes, I really want to fix this golden goose egg and give it a shot on my ...yellow shovel. LOL. Thanks Ob. Ride safe bro.
Very useful, thank you
Hi there with this carburetor my plugs keep getting Black is that running rich? my tailpipe's black as well
If the black stuff on the plugs is powdery and dry looking, you should try changing your jetting. Try some smaller jets, but change them one at a time so you can evaluate the effects. You might also check your float level and test the seal of your needle and seat. If there's too much gas in the bowl the engine will run rich. On rare occasions, a weak ignition system will foul the plugs, darken the pipes and even blow black smoke, but the bike generally runs pretty bad in those cases.
If the black stuff on the plugs is wet looking or scaly, that would indicate that oil is being burned in the combustion chamber. Does your engine blow smoke? Black smoke indicates over rich mixture, but blue smoke means that you've struck oil!
If you still have problems, call S&S at 608-627-1497 and select the tech dept from the menu.
Ok thank you I will call you guys
Great video
Thanks!
It would be nice if you could adjust the audio too!
THX for the info
Can’t get 1976 Ironhead to idle without enrichment on
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Could someone tell me the exact dimensions of the "Pump cap oring" Part # 11-2371
Pump cap o-ring, 50-8012
Fluorosilicone O-ring, (-009), 7/32"ID x 11/32"OD x 1/16"CS,
Much appreciated....