I love the humor in your videos you have helped me not only with my small engines and having land I have plenty. But with some trying times in life watching your humor and passion is a break from my crazy life thanks
When I was in the army I worked on generators. The go/no go timing gauge for a 50 cal was what I used to set points with. The thin end of it was a perfect feeler gauge.
I am a small engine/lawn mower mech. After retiring from the US Air Force in 1990, I worked for 20 years at a lawn mower shop here in northwest Florida very similar to yours. I still have friends and family that bring their broke stuff to me for repair. I still make it a point never to miss your Sunday videos after I get home from church. Watching your skits that portray dealing with "customers" reminds that I have dealt with most of the same customer issues you deal with in your shop. My favorite one is in the middle of summer a customer would bring a mower in and I would tell the person how many weeks behind we were, and many of them would say "my grass is up to here up to here!" indicating hip level with their hand and "I need my mower right now!" expecting me to put them at the head of the list. I enjoyed my time working there.
I got a 1972 Black and Wrecker genny. Got it from a buddy had ran it low on oil and it stuck the engine thanks to yous guys tips and tricks I was able to bring it back to life after it sat stuck for 15 years 😊 so thanks for all the great information yous guys put out!!!! Grass Rats rule!!!
i had a tiller that had one of those pushrods for the points that would hang when engine got hot . had to wait till motor cooled before it would start . worked out well (till it eventually wouldn't even start when cold) cause we both always got hot/needed a break at about the same time .
Hello Taryl and team, greetings from Germany („gut und eng“) and thanks for the Sunday evening entertainment. Wish you a wonderful week and as always, there’s your breakfast 🍳, eh dinner 🍲👍🍀🌞
Great work Taryl as always! Love your channel the best!! Can't wait for Sundays to come around! Always learn a lot and enjoy the humor and triumph throughout the videos with you. I didn't even know this about this brand of tractor/mower. I bought my first zero turn & commercial mower last year. Its a Bradley 48" stand on with 25hp breaks n scrap' em. Thing is a tank, weighs 950 lbs. Cuts great, fun to ride and hauls ass! Only thing is it's heavy. But like u said, they don't make em like they used to. I'm impressed how those vintage tractors are still going 63+ years later! Now, there's your dinner, whooo!!
in my Ag shop I taught that on horizontal shaft B&S the starter clutch is to be set with the notch in the end or the word top to the top when you replace the shroud. Enjoy all your shows
I cannot tell you how many times your videos have bailed me out of a situation I couldn't figure out. Now my granddaughter has seen your video on scamshafts. She runs about saying Woooo Scamshaft!!! I enjoy the humour, the absolute skills and tutorials. Thank you for all that. And I have learned... Its not the space shuttle, it's a lawn mower...
My B&S 6S, on a Boelens Handi-Hoe, was a real bitch to start until I replaced the gasget between the carb halves. Now it can sit all winter and start in 3 wraps of the cord.
I always pull the mag and clean the laminates and engine posts to clean bare metal. Seems to help get back great spark. Hard to kill those old point mags. Got a '62 23D going not too long ago. Seems like the magnets in the flywheel were getting weak so I brought the air gap down to .018" (book calls for .022-.026). Did the trick.
I learn so much watching your videos. I have a bunch of small engine tractors ,chain saws,vacuums,blowers and watching your diagnostic videos all my stuff runs great. You are the best.
I am glad to see someone else clean a spark plug with a brass brush. I just use a brass brush when an engine runs rough and clogs up the plug. Bad gas will do that, or a gummed up carb. Other people will use other tools, but not me. - hit with starter fluid - add high octane real gas - clean the plug a few times The new high octane gas will clean up the carb after a while. The other options are expensive or work. The cheap, and lazy just use a brass brush, and starter fluid.
Thanks Taryl, I just love your Videos!! Being the owner of an excavation business myself, I do all of the heavy repairs myself, with over 50 years of experience!! In my opinion, You truly are an excellent mechanic!! I would trust you to do repairs for me any day, and I’m really Anal about detail!! It’s nice to be acquainted with a great person like yourself, that really cares!! Thanks again Taryl, Vic!!
The choke cable when I got the David Bradley was seized up solid got it loose and i spray it with PB Blaster periodically depending on how much I use the tractor , I've done a lot of mechanical work on the tractor side, rebuilt the carburetor on it two or three years ago, changed the dinosaur syrup in the engine and trans last spring
I had a weird starting problem on my WH c100. Wouldn't start with me sitting on it but when i had it in the garage with the hood up it started and ran fine. Took me a while to realize that when the hood was down it was just barely resting on the coil terminal. 🤦♂️
I gained alot of respect of Taryl"s videos he shows part numbers and good techniques! I watched his video on diaphragm tecumseh carbs and stopped the leaking carb
I had an old cast iron 3 HP Breaks&Scrap'em on my homemade go kart. After a new set of points, I could rock the flywheel back and forth and get a hot spark. So sometimes you can, sometimes not. Great video Taryl, I enjoyed revisiting an old Briggs tuneup how-to.
I have a old garden tractor in good shape and everything works. I've only seen a few. It's a bush hog d-4-10. 10hp Wisconsin engine. Was my pas. I love it.
Tarly I still garden with a David Bradley two wheel tractor from the 50’s,it has an old iron engine.can you do a show on one of them. These tractors do it all,they cut grass,plow,cultivate,haul,rake,pump fluids and more.I like your programs.thanks..
I'm fairly new to your videos. I find them so educational and entertaining, wish you were available when my two sons were younger, they used to love grabbing discarded mowers in our neighborhood and do what they could to get them running for people who couldn't afford new ones
I've always used a brass hammer and pry bar, for flywheel removal,, also I put a little GRAPHITE down in the starter cup for the ball lube😮 as you said never use oil or grease. I like your channel, you do things LIKE I WAS TAUGHT TO DO THEM,, THE RIGHT WAY!!!!!!! AND THERE'S YOUR DINNER😂
Those un coated business cards really do the trick. Doesn't leave lint and picks up the crud and particles from filing. Been using them since 79'. It helps to cut some 1/4" wide strips and keep 'em in with the ignition system tools.
Nice to see you making decent length videos again! I got into a bit of a debacle with a troll, criticising James Condon for long videos and too much detail, but for me, that's just the way I like 'em, and by most accounts, so do most other technical people. Make 'em long and entertaining, Taryl. If you make 'em, we will come! Now then, how big is that engine? I was expecting to see external points on that thing, like on my 10HP Briggs of the same period - so evidently not that big? On that rear end, that double seal arrangement is exactly the same as used to be used by David Brown Tractors, and many others too I would not doubt. The trouble with them was that if a seal failed, it let oil onto the brakes, which were inboard on their machines. They also recommended packing a good quality grease into the space between the seals since the outermost one would otherwise never see any lubrication at all. Interestingly, I've been after building a small garden tractor out of this 10 horse Briggs and a Peerless three speed transmission. Following my retirement in December, I might just pick up the threads of that project once more.
I love watching your "learning channel". I have always tinkered on small engines, since I was a young boy till just this past weekend "adjusting valves" on my 25 horse power V twin B&S. I watch another channel similar to yours "not naming names" but SHE don't really get into a repair & show & explain like you do Keep up the good work and great videos & can't wait until the next one.
I knew a guy from Mass. who would convert that Briggs to electronic ignition just to avoid points and condenser. He was a big David Bradley collector mainly the walk behinds.
I sure like the old stuff like David Bradley. That engine is such a purty color, looks almost like gold plating. On the old self-contained magnetos on tractors, the magnets used to get weak. I'd see people at the tractor shows with a recharging rig that used a battry and an electromagnet to restore the old magnets. I wonder if the old flywheels could also use a recharge - but if you have to replace the flywheel when you switch coils to go electronic, I guess you'd never know if the problem really was the magnets getting weak. Or maybe the magnets in flywheels were newer technology and didn't lose their magnetism. Anyways it's mighty innerstin', either way!
You can buy business card stock for printing your own cards. You can cut this stock into strips. Use these strips for cleaning points. You can use these cards dry as you have shown or slightly dampened with carb cleaner, not to damp or it make the card strip to soft. Use a damp one as you showed then a dry one to remove any excess cleaner.
your showing what really happen's while fixing old things help's to understand why it cost so much. time time time. $$$. think that why all my neighbors just gave me things they did not understand. they were throwing it away. they thought. then they would see it for sale. did help i had a corner lot on buzy street.
I have that Brakes and Scap'm Starter tool, it sheared off all the ears anyway.. got me cranky Clean the magnets and Coil Lams.! It ABSOTIVELY helps. Got many a mower running by cleaning both. Ah remember when flywheel fins weren't plastic crap out add ons
One thing about that recoil unit with the steel balls in it, you CAN put oil in that, it just has to be a very light oil. Something like WD-40 (I consider it oil, even though a number of people don't) is what you would use, something very thin that'll flow and move around like water. Anything thicker and there's a very likely chance that the little steel balls will stick into place and it'll throw out the rope. Otherwise you would generally run it dry like you said, the main reason for putting a thin oil in is mainly if one of these engines spends a lot of time in more humid climates if memory serves right.
I'll be 70 next year and we used to use a book of matches in a pinch. Use the striker for a file and the fold over portion to set the gap. For the lawyers out there we took the book of matches apart and placed the matches in a fire proof metal box. "not" lol
I've learned a lot from you Taryl. Thanks a million. God bless the kids that are smart enough to watch this channel. Sure hope we see that 318 in a future video!!
With that carby being so close to the shroud, I would have just loosened the bolts holding the intake elbow to the block a couple of turns, and that would free up the shroud. Chances are the gasket would be fine, and just drip a bit of loctite around the bolt/gasket area and retorted after replacing the shroud.... As much trouble as that lower intake elbow was giving you on the engine, it would be easier to pop the whole assembly off the block and go thru it as a complete intake system..... That would also eliminate an intake elbow gasket as a possible air leakage point, which definitely would make it hard to start. On a side note, I have had good luck using CLR to clean up filthy gas tanks. I removed the outlet screen from my Yard Machines (MTD) snowblower, cleaned the screen with brake cleaner, and plugged off the outlet with a tapered gear lube bottle cap. CLR and 25 quarter inch nuts in the tank, shake and rotate every side down for about 15 minutes. Pour out the CLR, fish out the nuts with a magnet, then spray inside the tank with WD-40. Shake again and drain, put the screen back in, and fresh fuel inside. Also cleaned out the float bowl, the main jet, and pulled and cleaned out the brass emulsion tube with those itty-bitty drill bits my brother got from you. Reassembled and started first pull and runs great, no surging or anything wonky.... Keep up the great videos!
My dad had one of these tractors. My cousins and I drove it all over the farm. It was hard to start too. It was replaced with a Sears tractor around 71. Probably because it was so hard to start.
Taryl fix’s has found a new fan , you want something to run and run for a long time it’s about knowledge. Nothing fancy about a teacher telling students to wake up and listen , the fear music with jaws in the water is my favorite
We were taught in tech training school (telecommunications) to never clean contact points with paper or cardboard. We had a special contact cleaner strip called microscrub. A bit like Velcro it had micro fibres which would polish the points. I wish I knew where to get some now.
This Allen Bradley 1961 riding mower has been well care for. It was likely made to be quality machine. It runs fantastic now! It throttles up and down well and will come down to slow smooth idle. I didn't think these old mowers ran with out coughing and rough running a bit. This one runs smooth. 😄
I have a 1959 surburban just like that WO an engine. I have an engine that I plan to put on. But I will be very interested in the next video. My drive system is missing few parts also. I will be watching closely. Thanks Taryl!! PS. Maybe you could show and explain how that variable trans works. 👍
LOL I did not pay attention to the Title. I was interested in a David Brown from a local Ag dealer. So I put 2+2 and came up with 5. My Bad ! @@MothKeeper
As the condenser ages the points will transfer metal from point to yhe other and get an oxidation ( white power) which will effect the spark intensity. Removing the flywheel back in the day had no holes for a puller so you had to bump the shaft as you did. no harm just use the tool or a bras hammer. A rusty magnet can and I have seen it get so bad it will cause a bind and the flywheel will stick. I clean and a little clear krylon spray will stop the rust. Same with the coil armature.
Taryl I’m 86 years old and can’t wait for 9 on Sunday just like waiting Saturdays for Roy Rogers’s at movie theater back in 50s great videos
I also look forward to checking out his latest video upload on Sunday!
Congratulations ole timer!
I look forward to Taryl's videos too and have learned stuff and put it to practice on my small engines.
Thanks fer watchin partner. Appreciate the kind words!
same for me every sunday. nice way to get the day going
Question in my mind. If they keep making this stuff who needs Taryl? Ha ha
I love the humor in your videos you have helped me not only with my small engines and having land I have plenty. But with some trying times in life watching your humor and passion is a break from my crazy life thanks
When I was in the army I worked on generators. The go/no go timing gauge for a 50 cal was what I used to set points with. The thin end of it was a perfect feeler gauge.
I am a small engine/lawn mower mech. After retiring from the US Air Force in 1990, I worked for 20 years at a lawn mower shop here in northwest Florida very similar to yours. I still have friends and family that bring their broke stuff to me for repair. I still make it a point never to miss your Sunday videos after I get home from church.
Watching your skits that portray dealing with "customers" reminds that I have dealt with most of the same customer issues you deal with in your shop. My favorite one is in the middle of summer a customer would bring a mower in and I would tell the person how many weeks behind we were, and many of them would say "my grass is up to here up to here!" indicating hip level with their hand and "I need my mower right now!" expecting me to put them at the head of the list. I enjoyed my time working there.
I love seeing old equipment come back to life. Love the way you teach to work on the equipment. Thanks for the video love watching
Even a 70 yr old wrench like me gleans a nugget now and then! Also, check out Steve's Small Engine Saloon. He's awesome!
Taryl, just one of those days. Got to admire your perseverance
Like the video & camera works. Thanks for sharing
I got a 1972 Black and Wrecker genny. Got it from a buddy had ran it low on oil and it stuck the engine thanks to yous guys tips and tricks I was able to bring it back to life after it sat stuck for 15 years 😊 so thanks for all the great information yous guys put out!!!! Grass Rats rule!!!
i had a tiller that had one of those pushrods for the points that would hang when engine got hot . had to wait till motor cooled before it would start . worked out well (till it eventually wouldn't even start when cold) cause we both always got hot/needed a break at about the same time .
"That's a Feature, not a Bug."
Hello Taryl and team, greetings from Germany („gut und eng“) and thanks for the Sunday evening entertainment. Wish you a wonderful week and as always, there’s your breakfast 🍳, eh dinner 🍲👍🍀🌞
Thank you for sharing👍
Junior is quite a good cameraman, I am a retired TV camera operator and I appreciate good camera work.
I always thought it was Ronnie filming, guess I was wrong, too quiet of a guy, must be junior or slippers
Great work Taryl as always! Love your channel the best!! Can't wait for Sundays to come around! Always learn a lot and enjoy the humor and triumph throughout the videos with you. I didn't even know this about this brand of tractor/mower. I bought my first zero turn & commercial mower last year. Its a Bradley 48" stand on with 25hp breaks n scrap' em. Thing is a tank, weighs 950 lbs. Cuts great, fun to ride and hauls ass! Only thing is it's heavy. But like u said, they don't make em like they used to. I'm impressed how those vintage tractors are still going 63+ years later! Now, there's your dinner, whooo!!
in my Ag shop I taught that on horizontal shaft B&S the starter clutch is to be set with the notch in the end or the word top to the top when you replace the shroud. Enjoy all your shows
I cannot tell you how many times your videos have bailed me out of a situation I couldn't figure out.
Now my granddaughter has seen your video on scamshafts. She runs about saying Woooo Scamshaft!!!
I enjoy the humour, the absolute skills and tutorials.
Thank you for all that.
And I have learned... Its not the space shuttle, it's a lawn mower...
My B&S 6S, on a Boelens Handi-Hoe, was a real bitch to start until I replaced the gasget between the carb halves. Now it can sit all winter and start in 3 wraps of the cord.
I always pull the mag and clean the laminates and engine posts to clean bare metal. Seems to help get back great spark. Hard to kill those old point mags. Got a '62 23D going not too long ago. Seems like the magnets in the flywheel were getting weak so I brought the air gap down to .018" (book calls for .022-.026). Did the trick.
I learn so much watching your videos. I have a bunch of small engine tractors ,chain saws,vacuums,blowers and watching your diagnostic videos all my stuff runs great. You are the best.
I am glad to see someone else clean a spark plug with a brass brush. I just use a brass brush when an engine runs rough and clogs up the plug. Bad gas will do that, or a gummed up carb. Other people will use other tools, but not me.
- hit with starter fluid
- add high octane real gas
- clean the plug a few times
The new high octane gas will clean up the carb after a while. The other options are expensive or work. The cheap, and lazy just use a brass brush, and starter fluid.
Thanks Taryl, I just love your Videos!! Being the owner of an excavation business myself, I do all of the heavy repairs myself, with over 50 years of experience!! In my opinion, You truly are an excellent mechanic!! I would trust you to do repairs for me any day, and I’m really Anal about detail!! It’s nice to be acquainted with a great person like yourself, that really cares!! Thanks again Taryl, Vic!!
Thanks for the education and the laughter you guys give to us .A Grass Rats Fan ..
Great video thumbs up, getting to work on the old stuff is fun
The choke cable when I got the David Bradley was seized up solid got it loose and i spray it with PB Blaster periodically depending on how much I use the tractor , I've done a lot of mechanical work on the tractor side, rebuilt the carburetor on it two or three years ago, changed the dinosaur syrup in the engine and trans last spring
I had a weird starting problem on my WH c100. Wouldn't start with me sitting on it but when i had it in the garage with the hood up it started and ran fine. Took me a while to realize that when the hood was down it was just barely resting on the coil terminal. 🤦♂️
Good info on fixing the old Briggs - I got a 1966 Tote Gote with a 6hp Briggs I need to bring back to life.
I gained alot of respect of Taryl"s videos he shows part numbers and good techniques! I watched his video on diaphragm tecumseh carbs and stopped the leaking carb
That's a cool looking tractor.
I love the original color which you can see on the motor base that was protected by a layer of grease 👌
I had an old cast iron 3 HP Breaks&Scrap'em on my homemade go kart. After a new set of points, I could rock the flywheel back and forth and get a hot spark. So sometimes you can, sometimes not. Great video Taryl, I enjoyed revisiting an old Briggs tuneup how-to.
I have a old garden tractor in good shape and everything works. I've only seen a few. It's a bush hog d-4-10. 10hp Wisconsin engine. Was my pas. I love it.
Tarly I still garden with a David Bradley two wheel tractor from the 50’s,it has an old iron engine.can you do a show on one of them. These tractors do it all,they cut grass,plow,cultivate,haul,rake,pump fluids and more.I like your programs.thanks..
Super fun as always and of course very good and informative video. So thank you Teryl and the best camera operator in the hole wide world. 🇸🇪💚🇺🇸👍
Excellent video. Love the old tractor work. My favorite. I have an Allis like the one you did, some JD and Cub.
Your videos are very helpful when I work on the small equipment thank you for all the great videos
I'm fairly new to your videos.
I find them so educational and entertaining, wish you were available when my two sons were younger, they used to love grabbing discarded mowers in our neighborhood and do what they could to get them running for people who couldn't afford new ones
Yellow spark versus blue ,great tip !Another good reason to have a good spark tester.
Thx T
Watching you work on these old machines brings back a lot of memories.
appreciate your sharing , especially when things get complicated, thanks for the all inclusive detail.
I like how you respect the older machines.
Great video. admire your perseverance. Taryl, Life is lawn mowers, the rest is just details.
I've always used a brass hammer and pry bar, for flywheel removal,, also I put a little GRAPHITE down in the starter cup for the ball lube😮 as you said never use oil or grease. I like your channel, you do things LIKE I WAS TAUGHT TO DO THEM,, THE RIGHT WAY!!!!!!! AND THERE'S YOUR DINNER😂
nice to learn about mowers and the old stuff ty.
Those un coated business cards really do the trick. Doesn't leave lint and picks up the crud and particles from filing. Been using them since 79'. It helps to cut some 1/4" wide strips and keep 'em in with the ignition system tools.
Good to see there are still mechanics that fix things instead of just parts replacer
Nice to see you making decent length videos again! I got into a bit of a debacle with a troll, criticising James Condon for long videos and too much detail, but for me, that's just the way I like 'em, and by most accounts, so do most other technical people. Make 'em long and entertaining, Taryl. If you make 'em, we will come!
Now then, how big is that engine? I was expecting to see external points on that thing, like on my 10HP Briggs of the same period - so evidently not that big? On that rear end, that double seal arrangement is exactly the same as used to be used by David Brown Tractors, and many others too I would not doubt. The trouble with them was that if a seal failed, it let oil onto the brakes, which were inboard on their machines. They also recommended packing a good quality grease into the space between the seals since the outermost one would otherwise never see any lubrication at all.
Interestingly, I've been after building a small garden tractor out of this 10 horse Briggs and a Peerless three speed transmission. Following my retirement in December, I might just pick up the threads of that project once more.
You got to love that old equipment!! Just a little maintenance and it will run forever!!
I love watching your "learning channel".
I have always tinkered on small engines, since I was a young boy till just this past weekend "adjusting valves" on my 25 horse power V twin B&S.
I watch another channel similar to yours "not naming names" but SHE don't really get into a repair & show & explain like you do
Keep up the good work and great videos & can't wait until the next one.
I knew a guy from Mass. who would convert that Briggs to electronic ignition just to avoid points and condenser. He was a big David Bradley collector mainly the walk behinds.
Hated it when ya lost yer dang balls there, good video and great work Taryl!
Good video. Like the older equipment.
I sure like the old stuff like David Bradley. That engine is such a purty color, looks almost like gold plating. On the old self-contained magnetos on tractors, the magnets used to get weak. I'd see people at the tractor shows with a recharging rig that used a battry and an electromagnet to restore the old magnets. I wonder if the old flywheels could also use a recharge - but if you have to replace the flywheel when you switch coils to go electronic, I guess you'd never know if the problem really was the magnets getting weak. Or maybe the magnets in flywheels were newer technology and didn't lose their magnetism. Anyways it's mighty innerstin', either way!
I’m sure you won’t believe me Taryl, but you have a job and a mindset that most of us caught in the treadmill of modern life, can only dream of.
I commend your "stick to it iveness"
Learned a lot from this one...thanks
Awesome video God Bless you and your family
Thanks, Taryl! 😎
What a great machine! nice fix as always 👍
Love these vintage mowers! Thanks for taking us along!
The skits are funny! You guys must have fun doing them? 😂👍🏻
You can buy business card stock for printing your own cards. You can cut this stock into strips. Use these strips for cleaning points. You can use these cards dry as you have shown or slightly dampened with carb cleaner, not to damp or it make the card strip to soft. Use a damp one as you showed then a dry one to remove any excess cleaner.
Pleasure watching you..!
Man that really starts and runs beautifully!
your showing what really happen's while fixing old things help's to understand why it cost so much. time time time. $$$.
think that why all my neighbors just gave me things they did not understand. they were throwing it away. they thought. then they would see it for sale. did help i had a corner lot on buzy street.
I have that Brakes and Scap'm Starter tool, it sheared off all the ears anyway.. got me cranky
Clean the magnets and Coil Lams.! It ABSOTIVELY helps. Got many a mower running by cleaning both.
Ah remember when flywheel fins weren't plastic crap out add ons
That was a great video on that antique tractor, I love seeing that old stuff running great job…👏👏👍👍👍
I remember flywheel pullers that threaded on to the crank shaft. The you adjusted attitudes with a 5# hammer.
I'm 9 minutes in here, that wall fan needs a one way trip to the woods with a 12 ga helper.❤😂
Great video as always Taryl! Thats how I always take flywheels off. Ive never wrecked any of my engines either LOL
Keep up the great work love you
Looking good bud !!!!!!!!!!!
One thing about that recoil unit with the steel balls in it, you CAN put oil in that, it just has to be a very light oil. Something like WD-40 (I consider it oil, even though a number of people don't) is what you would use, something very thin that'll flow and move around like water. Anything thicker and there's a very likely chance that the little steel balls will stick into place and it'll throw out the rope. Otherwise you would generally run it dry like you said, the main reason for putting a thin oil in is mainly if one of these engines spends a lot of time in more humid climates if memory serves right.
Keep up the good videos love watching you work on that old stuff I learned all that stuff when I was young too my father taught me a lot of it
Thanks good video
I'll be 70 next year and we used to use a book of matches in a pinch. Use the striker for a file and the fold over portion to set the gap. For the lawyers out there we took the book of matches apart and placed the matches in a fire proof metal box. "not" lol
Enjoy your videos, Taryl! Thanks for the entertainment!
I've learned a lot from you Taryl. Thanks a million.
God bless the kids that are smart enough to watch this channel.
Sure hope we see that 318 in a future video!!
Love your videos Taryl. You make it look so easy
Awesome video i like the vintage machine's you are the man..
Oldie but goodie , it's always fun watching your videos now just waiting for the next one on putting seals in.
thanks Taryl you do make learning fun 😁
Really like the illustrations like the z bender,
Nice workTaryl. Can't wait to see the axel job. 👍
Choke was the problem, tho the rest needed help, your the best Taryl
David Bradley-- Sears and Sawbuck. I fixed one of the smaller ones, made before that one. Right foot: throttle, left foot: drive.
With that carby being so close to the shroud, I would have just loosened the bolts holding the intake elbow to the block a couple of turns, and that would free up the shroud. Chances are the gasket would be fine, and just drip a bit of loctite around the bolt/gasket area and retorted after replacing the shroud....
As much trouble as that lower intake elbow was giving you on the engine, it would be easier to pop the whole assembly off the block and go thru it as a complete intake system.....
That would also eliminate an intake elbow gasket as a possible air leakage point, which definitely would make it hard to start.
On a side note, I have had good luck using CLR to clean up filthy gas tanks. I removed the outlet screen from my Yard Machines (MTD) snowblower, cleaned the screen with brake cleaner, and plugged off the outlet with a tapered gear lube bottle cap. CLR and 25 quarter inch nuts in the tank, shake and rotate every side down for about 15 minutes. Pour out the CLR, fish out the nuts with a magnet, then spray inside the tank with WD-40. Shake again and drain, put the screen back in, and fresh fuel inside.
Also cleaned out the float bowl, the main jet, and pulled and cleaned out the brass emulsion tube with those itty-bitty drill bits my brother got from you.
Reassembled and started first pull and runs great, no surging or anything wonky....
Keep up the great videos!
Nice job Taryl- that’s a cool old track-a-tore!!
Good, skilled, human work!
Great content!
That varnish from the gas leaking out of the carb makes good lock-tite!
My dad had one of these tractors. My cousins and I drove it all over the farm. It was hard to start too. It was replaced with a Sears tractor around 71. Probably because it was so hard to start.
I keep a,couple paint stir sticks around for stuff like spreading out hammer blows, scratch protection, wedges, etc.
Taryl fix’s has found a new fan , you want something to run and run for a long time it’s about knowledge. Nothing fancy about a teacher telling students to wake up and listen , the fear music with jaws in the water is my favorite
Great job treal fixed all 🤟
We were taught in tech training school (telecommunications) to never clean contact points with paper or cardboard. We had a special contact cleaner strip called microscrub. A bit like Velcro it had micro fibres which would polish the points. I wish I knew where to get some now.
I was thinking the same about the coil, weak or leaking moisture. I have seen when different temps, or moisture can make them fail.
Happy birthday Tayrl! Mine is Feb 16. Happy wrenching ya old gearhead!
This Allen Bradley 1961 riding mower has been well care for. It was likely made to be quality machine. It runs fantastic now! It throttles up and down well and will come down to slow smooth idle. I didn't think these old mowers ran with out coughing and rough running a bit. This one runs smooth. 😄
He does to me.I work on equipment stoned all the time.I always thought that he blazed.
I have a 1959 surburban just like that WO an engine. I have an engine that I plan to put on. But I will be very interested in the next video. My drive system is missing few parts also. I will be watching closely. Thanks Taryl!!
PS. Maybe you could show and explain how that variable trans works. 👍
Suburbans was all my dad ever drove that I can remember, my favorite was the 78 3/4 ton 454ci.✌🏻
David Brown I have never seen a small one like that. It's well worth the restore ! Good luck to the owner.
Not a David Brown. A David Bradley. They made a two wheel walk behind also.
Thanks' It looks Heavy Duty ! @@gw9951
David BRADLEY sold by Sears
I see what you did there... Totally ignored the title of the video... 🤣🤣🤣
LOL I did not pay attention to the Title. I was interested in a David Brown from a local Ag dealer. So I put 2+2 and came up with 5. My Bad ! @@MothKeeper
It's hard to believe that such a quality built machine would ever need any parts, or attention. LOL Great job Taryl
Happy birthday Taryl!!!!
Awesome Video Pete and the boys, was a pleasure to watch as usual! Those sleds rip! Gidday from Arnprior Ontario.
As the condenser ages the points will transfer metal from point to yhe other and get an oxidation ( white power) which will effect the spark intensity. Removing the flywheel back in the day had no holes for a puller so you had to bump the shaft as you did. no harm just use the tool or a bras hammer. A rusty magnet can and I have seen it get so bad it will cause a bind and the flywheel will stick. I clean and a little clear krylon spray will stop the rust. Same with the coil armature.