Well will this bike start after the top end rebuild? Please SUBSCRIBE and LIKE if you enjoyed the video! It helps me out a lot! Check out www.Laptwo.com for motorcycle, dirt bike, ATV, and scooter parts! My Instagram is: 2_vintage_ see behind the scenes on there. I post there every day.
Be careful with running it without a gas tank. If you dont add fuel to the carb before the bowl gets low, it runs really lean and the motor isnt getting any oil and you would ruin your brand new top end. Good job with the rebuild
Are you serious? Didn't put some x hatching in the jug, didn't use the pattern to torque the head. Didn't clean up the piston after drilling an sanding on it. I am sure the cylinder didn't get washed either. So this is improvement? I need to see the other videos then. This is horrid. Shade tree mechanic at its finest.
Different applications that use the same size piston. The different application might not have an exhaust bridge hence non power valve 125 so you can't have those holes or it will run like it has an air leak that's why they are not drilled from wiesco, if it was a stock oem piston from Honda it might have the holes pre drilled but it's not a forged piston like a wiesco
Nice job she's running again! Did you check the piston ring end gap? Should have done a compression test to give a baseline and then you would have a comparison once broken in! Bryan Salgado called out the oil port mod on the piston and you could have given him a shout out! You only get three squirts 💥💥💥 on the WD-40 rating scale as you neglected to give a shout out to Bryan Salgado!
Thank you wd40 and bike sounds good and checking the ring end gap is very important so the ring doesn't over expand and damage the cylinder liner and defiantly a compression check so you can make sure your not too tight on the quench and cause detonation damage to the top of the piston and head usually they are pritty dead on with ring end gap for bore size out the box from wiesco. Good job on the build
I'd like to throw a leg over a semi-modern 125 2 stroke, but I'm prolly too fat lol - 5'11" and close to 200 lbs. I read these bikes are made for 150lb guys. That bike I would say is a keeper with its new top-end and tight bottom end. Unless of course you're overstocked on CR125s haha. Again, great job on this CR.
Ted Pulliam It'll pull 200lbs with no problem. My cousin is well over 6' and about 250,he has been riding the same Yamaha 125 for a couple years now without the bike being torn up and he doesn't baby it by any means.
Don't let a new top end idle for too long without a fan blowing on the rads for cooling. a freshly rebuilt engine will tend to run on the hot side as the new piston wears itself to the shape of the cylinder.
I was going to mention the holes but I thought your piston was cast. You only drill the forged ones but if yours says to than yes you must. I drilled my Wisco piston but it was also forged. Drilling a cast piston can cause them to shatter.
You don't hone a plated cylinder!! The cylinder in plated!! I have a few of these bike.. you clean with soap and water and scotbrite pad the bore, that's it. Which he didn't do and he didn't take apart the power valve and clean it.
He, just torqued the head, no pattern, Just go around from one to the next. I feel bad for the people that buy stuff he has worked on, for real. Didn't flush the piston after drilling an sanding. Wow he is awesome. If you want to learn how not to build a motor. He gets my vote for numb nnn of the week.
southized He’s getting better with every quad. At first I was always bitching because young kids are watching him and learning bad advice. But he is coming along now
The pipe that was on the bike in the picture that was posted in the Ad to sell the bike was minty,I wonder why they chose to remove it and give him that old janky ass POS? You'd think that the person who was selling the bike would've left the nice Chrome one on and asked for a little more money for it so whoever bought it wouldn't be stuck with the ugly black one.
Nice work! Like MXA says, 2 strokes are super easy to refresh the top end on. 4 strokes not so much. I forget as its been a while (too long!) since I've had my '98 YZ250 and '89 kx80, but what is the break in procedure for new piston and rings on these bikes? Is the rule of thumb something like "Don't keep it at the same rpm for too long, don't max out the revs and let it run for 30 mins or an hour" or something like that?
I think everyone has their own technique. Mine I bring up to temp with gradual increase in RPM with no load and then let cool completely. I do this four times and then begin heat cycles under load gradually increasing RPM and then gradually bringing RPM back down to just about idle. Repeat this one four times and you should be good. Keep an eye on plug reading too!
I'm guessing that any method that works is the right way to go, I have heard that you are supposed to be easy on the engine until at least the first oil change and then you can gradually begin to start really riding it hard like you usually do. I'd like to hear from someone who builds these engines for a living.
you should have gotten honda oem gaskets mine is the same year and everything and mine after one good ride the head gasket blew so i got oem the second time and neve had a problem since
WD-40 Everything also on the side cover for the power valves I notice it has a small leak but I did this a few years ago so could’ve started soon as I got it back together or it broke recent but still i like getting one parts and oem specs because soon as you tune something on literally everything the thing will break or blow up or over heat
Might check the water pump out for rot when you put gasket in as early crs had magnesium water pumps snd prone to rot not sure what year switched to aluminum but know my 87 125 had magnesium in it and had to be replaced due to rot never hurts to check. Good Luck!
@@rowangrayvlogs5355 ok sorry must have missed it just know that magnesium will clog up radiators and make bike overheat and eat a top end in no time. Thanks
That’s so stupid why doesn’t it come pre drilled. Omg your so brave drilling that with a cordless drill, what if the bit snaps, I couldn’t do it. Only thing I would recommend is that you take a hole punch and put a little tap on the spot yOur wanting to drill to stop the drill from sliding and scratching the while piston
Did you know that you can get the dents out of your pipe? Block one end of the pipe and fill it with water and put it in the freezer. The ice expands and pushes out the dent.
I guess I should have done that on my 77 RM 125 I just got running.i did sand on the bridge port a little, but should have done that too!!! Thanks to both of you!
@Mike Schlup That is one of my favorite years for the RM series and I'm working on obtaining a 76 RM370! Great Bikes from an era when the bikes still had balls and easy to work !
@@wd-40everything65 I went nuts...had it ported, cylinder and head coated with heat dissipation coating plus Ohlins shocks.plus full rebuild...34 mm carb too...IT FLIES!
Lot better content of late we’ll done. never remeasure after you have drilled ! lol what you gonna do if it’s wrong ? never doubt yourself measure twice drill once job done move on
what's the point of a new piston & rings on a cylinder that needs to be honed. Putting new components on anything but a fresh cylinder is a complete waste of your time. You could simply buy a 54mm 320 grit flex hone (if you wanna be light) put it in your drill, match your strokes with your rpm, and boom you now have a perfect cylinder, nee rings and piston. Combine that with a copper head gasket (if your acc keeping the bike) and you'll have very good compression without doing anything fancy
Heat/Friction/Neglect/Wrong Lubricant or lack of just to mention a few! But I have had two strokes that are over 35 years old with original Pistons that still run great!
hunter Kamp Yeah,they shouldn't even have posted the picture of the bike with the nice chrome pipe if they were just gonna put that ugly stock POS black pipe back on it when they sold it. The look of the bike completely changes when you remove that bad ass chrome pipe,it made it look so much better,the black pipe makes the bike look like shit.
I used aircraft stripper on cars and got a little on some plastic trim parts and it ruined them. The parts were shot anyway and I was curious what is would do
@@wd-40everything65 actually...i use it..the airplane paint stripper..because its effective as hell..but afterwards I'll dress it with a equal parts vegetable glycerin and rosewater..or just linseed oil(with maybe a little mineral spirits) ,it will renew old rubber and plastic better than any heavy chemical, and its super cheap and safe,my dad taught me this years ago..available at any hardware store even seen it at walgreens..
@Sky B this was 25 years ago and maybe the new stuff is less toxic. I have some here and plenty of old fenders so I'm going to experiment with it. Thanks for the tip!
This is another cemented example of how little you know and have no plan or direction for a rebuild. First off you didn't torque the bolts in the correct pattern, it should have been in a star pattern. Secondly, you didn't buy a new head so you're putting the new piston at risk and finally, maybe I'm the only one who noticed this but one of the bolts on the head wasn't the correct size. My point being is for an organized method would be to pull out the motor that way you could get a closer look and be able to torque all of the bolts correctly. Including pulling off the radiator as well to again get a closer look for any small leaks. Even a pinhole-sized will cause problems.
There is no need to remove the motor for a top end service but the rads could have been removed to better access the head bolts. They reused the split water pump gasket and that's the culprit for the leak which was disclosed in the video and he said he has one on order. Could have decked the head and cylinder to ensure they are true but I think they done pretty good!
yes, he did disclose that. Removing the entire motor would permit a much deeper more detailed inspection. Taking into account how long that bike sat for personally I wouldn't just rebuild the top end id dig into the bottom end too. Machines that are ridden hard and put away wet always have little demons waiting for your wallet. I.e. the crank was ignored even the connecting rod was bypassed. What starts out as a piston, rings and a gasket set can end up a money pit. I've blown up lots of motors over time, especially 125's because they're small and light. Easy to flick around but the motor wasn't built for a guy my size that and after I rode them into the ground id sell it knowing the cost of a complete rebuild.
Twisted-X H if I were keeping it than it would get the full works but to resell and do a complete tear down and replace every bearing nut bolt and seal would break the bank for sure. You have to set a budget or go bankrupt!
@@wd-40everything65 yeah. As is this resale he may or may not do will be tricky. As is bike like that would bring $1000 maybe $1100 if he gets lucky. That's after the offers, id offer $950 at most.
@Twisted-X H I've seen bikes like this that someone has dumped thousands in it and hardly rode it. Then they lose their ass when they need or have to sell it!
You should never ever have to do piston work it should be ready to go again wiseco is Cisco they should been ready for mashing the machine and the year stop going cheap
You pair are arsholes for not putting the muffler on as it’s provides back pressure and could blow the rings started it like that as there is no back pressure
The exhaust pipe is where your back pressure or pulses are created. The baffle is just an extension of the stinger and is a straight through design to reduce noise levels. Some early road race and mx pipes didn't require any baffles but jetting was key for optimal performance and longevity!
This is really stupid buy a pissing that is fit for that year and that machine he's not a full blown mechanic and I understand that just the guy trying to make money fix out bikes but buy stuff that works correctly no way certified to do piston work and your holes I love this show I would never buy anything from him never ever
Well will this bike start after the top end rebuild?
Please SUBSCRIBE and LIKE if you enjoyed the video! It helps me out a lot!
Check out www.Laptwo.com for motorcycle, dirt bike, ATV, and scooter parts!
My Instagram is: 2_vintage_ see behind the scenes on there. I post there every day.
Buy one of these 👌🏻👍🏼 they are a great thing to have 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👍🏼 ua-cam.com/video/plblbnm-5Hw/v-deo.html
Be careful with running it without a gas tank. If you dont add fuel to the carb before the bowl gets low, it runs really lean and the motor isnt getting any oil and you would ruin your brand new top end. Good job with the rebuild
Your mechanical skills have vastly improved from your early videos. good job
Are you serious? Didn't put some x hatching in the jug, didn't use the pattern to torque the head. Didn't clean up the piston after drilling an sanding on it. I am sure the cylinder didn't get washed either. So this is improvement? I need to see the other videos then. This is horrid. Shade tree mechanic at its finest.
@@ohuigin9249 I said improved not perfect
You would think that Wiseco could do the drilling themselves instead of passing it onto the customer.......
Yeah you would think
the same piston could possibly be for use on cr125's of different years.
Bit of a nightmare this incase it goes wrong. Should defo come done from them
It wasn't pre-drilled because it's a matter of preference.
Different applications that use the same size piston. The different application might not have an exhaust bridge hence non power valve 125 so you can't have those holes or it will run like it has an air leak that's why they are not drilled from wiesco, if it was a stock oem piston from Honda it might have the holes pre drilled but it's not a forged piston like a wiesco
That should be the next giveaway bike
i watched you since the beginning..ur doin awsome fixing these bikes joe.. your skills have grown alot..nice job 👍
Been waiting patiently for this video 😊😊another great watch well done lads 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Just got myself a 1990 rm125 she's minty
great job ! can't wait to see the test rip ! i had a 93 and it was fast ! top speed was about 70mph but the power band hit so hard in every gear !
Nice job she's running again! Did you check the piston ring end gap? Should have done a compression test to give a baseline and then you would have a comparison once broken in! Bryan Salgado called out the oil port mod on the piston and you could have given him a shout out! You only get three squirts 💥💥💥 on the WD-40 rating scale as you neglected to give a shout out to Bryan Salgado!
He's right joe..gotta get those squirts back up to 5..shout out to Bryan Salgado
Don't want WD-40 to pull their sponsorship! lol
Thank you wd40 and bike sounds good and checking the ring end gap is very important so the ring doesn't over expand and damage the cylinder liner and defiantly a compression check so you can make sure your not too tight on the quench and cause detonation damage to the top of the piston and head usually they are pritty dead on with ring end gap for bore size out the box from wiesco. Good job on the build
@bryan salgado you had a very good tip that deserved recognition so you get 5 💥💥💥💥💥 more squirts of WD-40 !
I'd like to throw a leg over a semi-modern 125 2 stroke, but I'm prolly too fat lol - 5'11" and close to 200 lbs. I read these bikes are made for 150lb guys. That bike I would say is a keeper with its new top-end and tight bottom end. Unless of course you're overstocked on CR125s haha. Again, great job on this CR.
Ted Pulliam It'll pull 200lbs with no problem. My cousin is well over 6' and about 250,he has been riding the same Yamaha 125 for a couple years now without the bike being torn up and he doesn't baby it by any means.
Yeah a 250 would be better for ya...or an xr 200
Run your brake in, change oil, good o go!! Great vid guys, impressed! Keep up the great work and vid...
Your videos are gold. You need to make some merchandise and build up your channel and make money .
I like how you started it in the garage. You know who needs hearing these days. Let alone inhaling exhaust smoke.
Use a marker never scribe on a new piston
The holes must also be chamfered on the outside. I used a bit that was couple sizes larger to put a small chamfer on the holes.
I love that restyled front end! U wouldn’t even know the bike is a dinosaur
It’s alive!!
Nice job boys!!!!
Don't let a new top end idle for too long without a fan blowing on the rads for cooling. a freshly rebuilt engine will tend to run on the hot side as the new piston wears itself to the shape of the cylinder.
the operating temp will gradually drop as the new parts mate to each other.
What are rads? Btw yes i do have a bike. 2006 kdx 200🤘🤘
Daniel Meyer radiators
@@danielmeyer677 I just shortened radiators.
@@danielmeyer677 noobie huh 😂
That ought to be a purchase option when you get it. Interesting.
next time use a marker don't scratch marks on a new piston
Ur boy through his magic on it. nice
I was going to mention the holes but I thought your piston was cast. You only drill the forged ones but if yours says to than yes you must. I drilled my Wisco piston but it was also forged. Drilling a cast piston can cause them to shatter.
Nice one guy's, jobs a good'n 🍻
Run your water pump cover over 80/100 grit sandpaper to make it flat
maybe tighten the cylinder head in a star pattern so it dosn't warp good job tho on the bike
i hoped you honed the cylinder for the new piston and rings looks like time for a bigger garage or a big yard sale have fun and stay safe
You don't hone a plated cylinder!! The cylinder in plated!! I have a few of these bike.. you clean with soap and water and scotbrite pad the bore, that's it. Which he didn't do and he didn't take apart the power valve and clean it.
Forgot to crosshatch they cylinder 🤷🏾♂️oh well. Next time
He, just torqued the head, no pattern, Just go around from one to the next. I feel bad for the people that buy stuff he has worked on, for real. Didn't flush the piston after drilling an sanding. Wow he is awesome. If you want to learn how not to build a motor. He gets my vote for numb nnn of the week.
@@ohuigin9249 oh yeah he doesn't deserve to work on dirt bikes he says evrything runs mint but 90% of what he owns runs like shit
huigin s ive heard people complain about the bikes he fixed and sells them
southized He’s getting better with every quad. At first I was always bitching because young kids are watching him and learning bad advice. But he is coming along now
@@sixpacksandsrts9122 he still does it the cheapest option u should never do that with any race quad/bike
the expansion pipe lets the bike down big time, all bashed in an janky looking. a nice chrome pipe would look rad
foreverhungry84 gnarly pipe oof sexy I love older bikes check out my restoration
The pipe that was on the bike in the picture that was posted in the Ad to sell the bike was minty,I wonder why they chose to remove it and give him that old janky ass POS? You'd think that the person who was selling the bike would've left the nice Chrome one on and asked for a little more money for it so whoever bought it wouldn't be stuck with the ugly black one.
Glad to see u kids doing something useful during house arrest
Fill that pipe up with water and throw it in the freezer to get those dents out.
If u dont have paint stripper laying around, use brake fluid. But do NOT mix it with water because water neutralizes it
Nice work! Like MXA says, 2 strokes are super easy to refresh the top end on. 4 strokes not so much. I forget as its been a while (too long!) since I've had my '98 YZ250 and '89 kx80, but what is the break in procedure for new piston and rings on these bikes? Is the rule of thumb something like "Don't keep it at the same rpm for too long, don't max out the revs and let it run for 30 mins or an hour" or something like that?
I think everyone has their own technique. Mine I bring up to temp with gradual increase in RPM with no load and then let cool completely. I do this four times and then begin heat cycles under load gradually increasing RPM and then gradually bringing RPM back down to just about idle. Repeat this one four times and you should be good. Keep an eye on plug reading too!
Forgot to mention to re torque the cylinder and head once break in is complete!
I'm guessing that any method that works is the right way to go, I have heard that you are supposed to be easy on the engine until at least the first oil change and then you can gradually begin to start really riding it hard like you usually do. I'd like to hear from someone who builds these engines for a living.
you should have gotten honda oem gaskets mine is the same year and everything and mine after one good ride the head gasket blew so i got oem the second time and neve had a problem since
Did you re-torque the head and cylinder bolts after heat cycle break in?
Yes I did to spec three times and on the passenger side
It blew
WD-40 Everything also on the side cover for the power valves I notice it has a small leak but I did this a few years ago so could’ve started soon as I got it back together or it broke recent but still i like getting one parts and oem specs because soon as you tune something on literally everything the thing will break or blow up or over heat
I like sticking with OEM also but on the older stuff it can be difficult to obtain!
I have a cr 125 1988 i need the right side case the water jacket rotted a hole into the crank case .
Might check the water pump out for rot when you put gasket in as early crs had magnesium water pumps snd prone to rot not sure what year switched to aluminum but know my 87 125 had magnesium in it and had to be replaced due to rot never hurts to check. Good Luck!
He checked that in video before, but yeah if he hadn’t definitely a good thing to check.
@@rowangrayvlogs5355 ok sorry must have missed it just know that magnesium will clog up radiators and make bike overheat and eat a top end in no time. Thanks
Nice bike good video
That’s so stupid why doesn’t it come pre drilled. Omg your so brave drilling that with a cordless drill, what if the bit snaps, I couldn’t do it. Only thing I would recommend is that you take a hole punch and put a little tap on the spot yOur wanting to drill to stop the drill from sliding and scratching the while piston
It does not come pre drilled because that same piston is used in other bikes and applications that have no exhaust bridge.
They make a tool to take out dents from pipes
The pitting is from pre detonation. Are you guys gonna tune it ur self after I break it in. Nice job tho.
Did you make sure your base gasket was on before measuring
You guys need a set of roller bars to start these bikes
Why didn’t you oil the barrel and piston before assembly
I did
Did you know that you can get the dents out of your pipe? Block one end of the pipe and fill it with water and put it in the freezer. The ice expands and pushes out the dent.
Remember don't forget to rev it to the moon you'll break those rings in nice and quick!!!!! Lol
I got a 1990 cr 250 not to long ago and it rips yo lol seems like 2020 is the year of getting 30 year old hondas lol
Last forever
Can you tell me how you got all your dirt bike knowledge? I would really like to learn and I’m only 13
.375 apart and .375 center to center are 2 different measurements I’d think?
What happen if I don’t use a torque wrench for the head
think about measuring the ring end gap takes a minute
What is the reason for drilling the holes?
Supply lubrication to the exhaust bridge because it is the hottest spot on the cylinder.
Also helps reduce temps at the bridge with cooler charge transfer from crankcase!
I guess I should have done that on my 77 RM 125 I just got running.i did sand on the bridge port a little, but should have done that too!!! Thanks to both of you!
@Mike Schlup That is one of my favorite years for the RM series and I'm working on obtaining a 76 RM370! Great Bikes from an era when the bikes still had balls and easy to work !
@@wd-40everything65 I went nuts...had it ported, cylinder and head coated with heat dissipation coating plus Ohlins shocks.plus full rebuild...34 mm carb too...IT FLIES!
Great video
What year is the bike
Wiseco pistons the nickname is Cisco
Great vids
What gas to oil ratio do you run?
A drop maybe two in the main bearing ports is Plenty. This Web oiling thing has gotten out of control. LOL
Be careful running without silencer that can change how the pipe acts ..
Great vid
Lot better content of late we’ll done. never remeasure after you have drilled ! lol what you gonna do if it’s wrong ? never doubt yourself measure twice drill once job done move on
As much you guys work on bikes you oughta buy yourselves a bike lift! Harbor freights isn't too shabby for the money!!!
Woahhhhhh🔥🔥🔥
what's the point of a new piston & rings on a cylinder that needs to be honed. Putting new components on anything but a fresh cylinder is a complete waste of your time. You could simply buy a 54mm 320 grit flex hone (if you wanna be light) put it in your drill, match your strokes with your rpm, and boom you now have a perfect cylinder, nee rings and piston. Combine that with a copper head gasket (if your acc keeping the bike) and you'll have very good compression without doing anything fancy
🔥🔥
Why do you have to replace The piston often in a dirtbike
Heat/Friction/Neglect/Wrong Lubricant or lack of just to mention a few! But I have had two strokes that are over 35 years old with original Pistons that still run great!
Your friend is like a girl lmao don’t like getting his hands dirty come on bro your a man lol . Great videos keep up the great work love it
It definitely needs a pipe
hunter Kamp Yeah,they shouldn't even have posted the picture of the bike with the nice chrome pipe if they were just gonna put that ugly stock POS black pipe back on it when they sold it. The look of the bike completely changes when you remove that bad ass chrome pipe,it made it look so much better,the black pipe makes the bike look like shit.
@@FloridaMan0561 yessir
Whoop!
Why don't you show the process of putting the piston on the bike. You just show it when its on there. Sounds like its running great though, good job!!
All of his videos have repeated cut scenes. I don't understand why, probably getting an education from his bf lol
@@twisted-xh6066 then why watch ,just to bitch about it? Make your own video so you can prove your skills 👌
Use aircraft paint striper its way better
I didn't think aircraft stripper should be used on plastics or rubber parts!
@@wd-40everything65 yeah it makes them brittle
I used aircraft stripper on cars and got a little on some plastic trim parts and it ruined them. The parts were shot anyway and I was curious what is would do
@@wd-40everything65 actually...i use it..the airplane paint stripper..because its effective as hell..but afterwards I'll dress it with a equal parts vegetable glycerin and rosewater..or just linseed oil(with maybe a little mineral spirits) ,it will renew old rubber and plastic better than any heavy chemical, and its super cheap and safe,my dad taught me this years ago..available at any hardware store even seen it at walgreens..
@Sky B this was 25 years ago and maybe the new stuff is less toxic. I have some here and plenty of old fenders so I'm going to experiment with it. Thanks for the tip!
This is another cemented example of how little you know and have no plan or direction for a rebuild. First off you didn't torque the bolts in the correct pattern, it should have been in a star pattern. Secondly, you didn't buy a new head so you're putting the new piston at risk and finally, maybe I'm the only one who noticed this but one of the bolts on the head wasn't the correct size. My point being is for an organized method would be to pull out the motor that way you could get a closer look and be able to torque all of the bolts correctly. Including pulling off the radiator as well to again get a closer look for any small leaks. Even a pinhole-sized will cause problems.
There is no need to remove the motor for a top end service but the rads could have been removed to better access the head bolts. They reused the split water pump gasket and that's the culprit for the leak which was disclosed in the video and he said he has one on order. Could have decked the head and cylinder to ensure they are true but I think they done pretty good!
yes, he did disclose that. Removing the entire motor would permit a much deeper more detailed inspection. Taking into account how long that bike sat for personally I wouldn't just rebuild the top end id dig into the bottom end too. Machines that are ridden hard and put away wet always have little demons waiting for your wallet. I.e. the crank was ignored even the connecting rod was bypassed. What starts out as a piston, rings and a gasket set can end up a money pit. I've blown up lots of motors over time, especially 125's because they're small and light. Easy to flick around but the motor wasn't built for a guy my size that and after I rode them into the ground id sell it knowing the cost of a complete rebuild.
Twisted-X H if I were keeping it than it would get the full works but to resell and do a complete tear down and replace every bearing nut bolt and seal would break the bank for sure. You have to set a budget or go bankrupt!
@@wd-40everything65 yeah. As is this resale he may or may not do will be tricky. As is bike like that would bring $1000 maybe $1100 if he gets lucky. That's after the offers, id offer $950 at most.
@Twisted-X H I've seen bikes like this that someone has dumped thousands in it and hardly rode it. Then they lose their ass when they need or have to sell it!
Better put a new valve in your carb.
Just saying.
First comment also love watching u#notificationsquaf
👍
Any bikes you wanna sell? Let me know. 👍
i'm serious let me buy the bike my 18th is tomorrow
Happy Birthday 🎂
Happy birthday 🥳🎂🎂🎂🎂🎂🎂🍰🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
Why would you Wana buy this clapped shit
buddy holy shit, why are you jetting your pilot s rich
Sup
You should never ever have to do piston work it should be ready to go again wiseco is Cisco they should been ready for mashing the machine and the year stop going cheap
I need you guys help like BADD bad !!!!!!
20 mth on this piston belive me
Are you saying 20 minutes on the new Piston?
You pair are arsholes for not putting the muffler on as it’s provides back pressure and could blow the rings started it like that as there is no back pressure
The exhaust pipe is where your back pressure or pulses are created. The baffle is just an extension of the stinger and is a straight through design to reduce noise levels. Some early road race and mx pipes didn't require any baffles but jetting was key for optimal performance and longevity!
I restored this exact bike last year. Check it out on my channel if you want to see what the potential is.
😆👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Squad
That new style looks so shit with the old shrouds and rear
Lol
15th like if he should give this bike away
This is really stupid buy a pissing that is fit for that year and that machine he's not a full blown mechanic and I understand that just the guy trying to make money fix out bikes but buy stuff that works correctly no way certified to do piston work and your holes I love this show I would never buy anything from him never ever
Any body with lt250r parts message me i need some
Early squad
second
First
3rd veiw