There is a Toyota TB reset VlD here and the guy said with the key on/dash lights on / engine off, to depress and release the accel pedal thru its full movement in about a 3 second interval. Do that several times after cleaning it and it resets the TB circuit and idle returns to normal. Thanks for this video.
You just saved me a bunch of money and a ton of time. Cleaned the throttle body and MAF on 2007 Tundra after watching your videos, runs fantastic now! Thank you so much!
I was going to take my '04 Tundra with 250K miles to my mechanic this morning because of stalling at idle after a battery replacement. I watched your video and decided to tackle it myself. It was really simple, took about an hour and it runs fantastic!! Thanks for your help!!
Thanks for an informative video. I’ll bet anything when you pay for this service at a dealership, they don’t fully remove the throttle body for such a thorough service and cleaning. Thanks again, I may need to tackle this myself on my 5.7 Tundra.
Thank you for making this video! Very clear, methodical, and concisely explained process, with just enough extra information/background to make the viewer feel confident in taking this job on. You are a great and humble teacher. PS, I watched your MAF sensor on the Tundra video and it assisted me with that task done concurrently yesterday.
My truck was idling low and then a little high and sometimes dying on me at red lights. Product to to mechanic shops that told me it wouldn't code and they couldn't find out what was wrong with it. I looked at the throttle body the front look like someone had sprayed it but when I took it totally off the engine the crud and filth was amazing. Truck is now running great thanks to this video thank you very much sir
After watching this video, I removed and cleaned the throttle body on my 2007 Toyota Sequoia with 249,000 miles. My Sequoia runs like new. I had a shudder when shifting from first to second and a flat spot when accelerating from idle. Both are gone! Thank you!
Great video. I have 95k. Took me 30 minutes after watching your video. Glad I didn’t agree to let the dealer sucker me into doing this 50000 miles ago. They presented it as if it was urgent. Didn’t buy it. Thanks for your help.
Hello, i want to thank you for such of a great help i did step by step and I cant believe i fix my Tundra 2014 never had a issu since day one only my battery went bad one time and of course tires… but today my truck was not having a good day had a check light & Tac off light on and trufk was not able to stay running it will shut off …. Had auto part help me with a scan code and i look on UA-cam i saw your video and i cant believe i fix my truck i am not a mechanic but im so proud. Thanks alot for taking your time teaching step by step thanks alot ..!!! Cheers from WinterSprings Florida.
Thank you! Dealer wanted to charge me $100. As part of recommended maintenance for this. I am not a mechanic but I know tools and basic assembly. I’ll do this myself!
Just did this on my 2011 Tundra. Not as dirty as yours. My truck cranked for an extra second or 2 before starting after the procedure. It idled normal after that. I also followed your PS flush. I will be doing that along with each oil change from now on.
Thanks Peter, the high idle happened to my 1995 T100 after cleaning the throttle body and I had no idea as to when the idle would go back to normal... it took about 2 days to balance out
@@ToyotaMaintenance I used to own 2 old police model crown 2005 series Victoria's on the going story that they're extremely reliable to some degree yes, but their throttle body's are incredibly sensitive so much that I broke it by shifting the valve slightly hahaha and 1300 bucks later it did run normal until both of them had extreme strut issues as well
Awesome video! Solved 2 issues for me. One of which is the jump in rpms after cleaning the t/b!! Initially I had the P0101....MAF sensor "PERFORMANCE" problem which prompted me to research more on it. Cleaned the K&N filter...MAF sensor as well and made sure there's no leaks in the air intake. P0101 came back on shortly after all of that. The second time i took the K&N system out i noticed the throttle body to be disgustingly dirty....i mean Black all over it! Went on UA-cam found this video. I got this truck in 2011 at 60000km.. its a 2008 5.7 SR5 double cab and have it now at 240000km and sure as shit know...no one cleaned the t/b since i know i didn't lol. To make the story short...cleaned the t/b...reset the codes. They're GONE!BUT the rpms went to 2600! It wouldn't go down for days. Now the guy in the video says the ECU gotta relearn.... Now...in the past on some occasions when working on the truck....i had to disconnect the battery which i really didn't want to do because the engine was stalling at idle. Now i know why! The guy said the ecu learns the new algorithms overtime as it gets dirty.....when you clean it....you give an instant brain wash! So.... I came to a conclusion! Clean t/b...clean ECU! Disconnect the positive from the battery! Itll reset the ECU to original state and since your T/B is nice and clean like new....they will sync instantly! Thank you for the video bro!
@@WOOPERT2001 that was the answer I was looking for...wanting to do the t.b. job done but I little afraid it would come up with that high rpm issue....feel confident now after reading these...
I was skeptical this would work. My battery died and the computer reset and then had this idle problem. Engine kept dying when I slowed down. Took it out, cleaned it but not as well as he does in the video, and perfect afterwards. The small gap he showed was very interesting and also the comment about high rpm.. 2007 tundra 5.7 4x4
Easiest and fastest way to relearn idle parameters and shift points on Toyota with electronic throttles that have been disconnected is disconnect negative side of battery, cover battery post to avoid contact, run a jumper wire from positive side of battery (still connected) to negative battery cable. This discharges the capacitors in the ecm (computer) from all its present memory of idle and shift points. Do so for about 30 seconds. Reconnect negative side cable to battery, start and idle engine to normal operating temperature. Then take it for a drive at normal speeds to relearn shift points. This is much quicker than waiting 2 or 3 days.
I did this on my Tundra about two years ago n holy moly nasty , thinking about doing it again this coming summer so easy to do n Toyotas are so smart n quick they relearn new idle within 5 minutes, I do everything he does only difference is I used a soft toothbrush n it works wonders
Well, I went out this am and cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor..the MAF was in good shape and looked new. (I have 08 we bought new last year and has 170+k on odo). The throttle body was another story. It was DIRTY. I had to use a very soft brass brush to get the soot off it. The little screen was even worse. IT was gunky, as was the edge of the tube it sat in. Thanks for the vid and for sharing your knowledge.
Great video & very helpful! Replaced the battery in our Tundra & the car keeps stalling- Apparently the computer reset to factory standard, and has yet to recognize that the throttle is dirty. Thank you for helping me solve this mystery.... Now to clean the throttle body!
Thanks for this. was able to do nice cleaning to maintain my 4.7 Tundra. This secondary air pump situation is crazy on this engine. I rerouted the pumps away from the front fender well after sucking in some water in heavy rain. Water made quite a mess with the pumps and the sensors. Maybe do a session on checking these?
Hewitt tech, you can buy a bypass kit, I put mine in about 6 months ago, I always used a always in OBD II scanner and would have to reset the codes every other day, after a few years of that I finally got the kit and zero issues! Just another government great idea for the environment, modern version of the useless POS in the late 70s - early 80s, made the vehicle run worse, probably pollute more from misfires and flooding on carbureted engines! I have been a mechanic for over 20 years, I know the air pump system is BS, auxiliary system that can be bypassed no problem.
Thanks. Its also a good time to take out air filter box and clean all the dust and debris that ends up in the bottom. This material still gets pulled into the filter element and can be easily washed out.
Don't, take it from a 20 + years mechanic! A.. They're super easy to strip and there's no going back! B.. With ETC or throttle by wire, the butterfly shaft goes into the ETC module and is indexed to a certain degree and you might as well throw it away rather than try to re-index the ETC module!
i have a 2001 tundra. my mechanic said its this. makes sense. i could start and then it would die and start again, only when it was cold. so the engine rpm would go up after ignition and fall for a moment and then go back to normal. :) good video
Great vid, I usually does the same thing you did on all the vehicles that I maintained. I always carefully clean the inside due to the seal that sealed the motor inside the IAC. It has a thermistor inside that senses the temperature of the coolant. When the coolant is cold when at first start up, the idle is high and when it reaches the operating temp. The idle will subside to bet. 730-750. All those adjustment are made by the glorious ECM that control the air, fuel, and electricity flow.
nice explanation thx! just what I need to learn. I'm cleaning to see if this may be responsible for my cold 5.7 engine lurching when going up a hill, going back and forth between 2200 and 2800 rpm.
Thanks Brother, I did the same thing but did not why the idle speed went to 1200 rpm.I will wait for the learning process of the ECU.LETS HOPE IT WILL BE BACK TO 650 again.
OUTSTANDING VIDEO MY FRIEND ! SUBSCRIBED ! Just got a 2011 Tundra with 46 thousand miles and will ne watching for more of your excellent video ! You are a very detailed me mechanic ..wish you lived near me ..trust your work more than the Toyota dealer. Will-
Hope this will help my issue 09 5.7 with 182,xxx miles I replaced the battery / clamps and alternator and I have a low idle and battery guage moves around anything else I should do or look at ?
I tend to spay and neuter the build up and dirt. After all that is done I used a Dremel tool with the Cooper or steel brush to give it a better detailing on the TB. However since I live in Ca I don't have to worry about snow or very cold weather so i bypassed the coolant holes on the TB. My okay 1st I end up running the coolant holes to one another but later on I end up ordering an computer 80mm coolant radiator and hook it up to help cool off the coolant. I didn't bother to order the fan because it's next to the main fan it can cool the mini 80mm radiator.
My butterfly is also coated with that coating, I have no idea what it is, perhaps for corrosion control or something to make the butterfly close a certain way? It's not from carbon, it's attached to the butterfly and if I remember correctly it's only on the intake side, I can't remember!
Thank you for the video. It is very detailed! However I have few more questions for you regarding Tundra. I am getting P0441 and P2420 codes as well as often when I try to start the truck it cranks and takes few times turns before it starts. I am not sure what is causing this issue, also sometimes it will choke while driving but that doesn’t happen often. Any advise or fix you can help me with. Thank you
good shit. My 08 tundie is giving me the p0505 code and i've had a hunch it's the throttle body. If it gives me a high idle for a bit, i will enjoy it cause i have an exhaust that i love hearing on cold starts
Can a dirty throttle body be the cause of an intermittent crank no start issue? Seems like every 5 crank up or so imm get crank no start. I let the car sit for a few hours and it will start. Any ideas? My throttle body has to be cleaned BTW
So I tried this on my 2011 Tundra 5.7 V8. I decided I did not want to disconnect the wire harness on the TB and the two coolant hoses. So I removed the 4 bolts, removed the throttle body, and rested it on an old towel. From here I had access to both sides of the throttle body. I did not disconnect the (-) on the battery as I followed the advice in this video: ua-cam.com/video/XrcaDh4xDLs/v-deo.html I did what the guy did at 2:50, I got an assistant to turn the ignition key to accessory mode (not start engine), and slowly depress the accelerator to open the butterfly valve all the way. I did not push on the plate at all myself. I cleaned all around with an old toothbrush and generous amounts of throttle body cleaner. I was careful not to push on the butterfly valve, just around/under it. In the end both sides of the butterfly valve and under it were nice and clean. From here I tightened the 4 bolts and put my air hose back on. Started the truck. Like in the video it revved high at first about 2200rpm. After about 3-4 min the rpm dropped to normal about 1000rpm. I thought awesome that was a success! Well, not entirely. About 4 hours later I start the truck again to go drive and meet a friend. Truck starts fine but I now have 3 warning lights on my instrument panel!! "4-low" light is flashing (truck is in 2wd), traction control light is on, check engine light is on. I'm thinking "oh GREAT!" I'm running late so I just decide to drive the truck and hope for the best. It drives totally fine despite the 3 lights on. I try to press the trac control button to turn it off. Does not work. I try to pull over and shift the truck into 4-low, then back to 4 high, then 2wd to make the flashing 4-low light go away. Does not work. At this point I'm getting a little worried. I went to my appointment (about 3 miles/5km away). Truck sat for maybe 1 hour. When I left it started fine, no high RPM. No warning lights. I figure great it's fixed it's self! I drive back home no issues. Truck sits for about 1 hour. I have to go out again. Start truck. It STALLS. Yes, it stalled. Now I'm scared. Start it again, no issues. Drove to where I had to go maybe 1mile/2km away. Truck sat for about 2 hours. When I went to leave it started fine, no warning lights. Drove home. Truck has been fine since. My question is "what the heck was going on?!?!" Wad the ECU just learning the new status of the clean throttle body? The truck seems to run 100% fine now. Anything I should have done different?
Always, always, always.... Disconnect the negative terminal on any vehicle made since 2000, I can't say this enough, although it seems so simple, take it from a 20 + years mechanic. Prevents shorts, spikes, abrupt changes to the electronics all of which can kill an ECM or corrupt it like a computer HD, where clusters fail but the HD still somewhat functions... Not good in your vehicle!!
Bad seal on your TB possibly, the TB fuse burnt or the harness is messed up/damaged? Very easy to do, I even do it sometimes! That little FOD arrestor (the screen thing behind the TB), I once put it tit out and kept throwing my ECM into limp mode, but only when I accelerated quickly. So after a few days of taking the TB apart, checking the air gap and seal several times, I scratched my head and I've been a mechanic for over 20 years! Then I took apart to replace that FOD arrester and saw it tits out, it was indexed properly on the top just ass backwards! So I flipped it and of course my throttle actuator stuck close (P2112) disappeared! Since the butterfly could actually fully open... Hence why it went into limp mode when I fully accelerated, because it couldn't fully open! Start simple then work up to complex, most people want to assume the worst when it's usually something simple and people spend a $1,000 on a $10.00 problem!
@@victorglaviano alright sir, I swear if this fixes mine, I’m gonna buy you a beer. I cleaned my TB a couple days ago. I started it to let it idle for a while until the idle came down. Drove it 2 days later (this morning) got a p2112 on the highway when I gave it more throttle. Code hit, went into limp mode, then the side of the highway I reset the code. Started slow, it was fine then more throttle, bam, did it again. Limped to a side road, reset MIL again, took it slow home a few miles no code… had to use the secondary car to go to work. So your comment sounds like my problem. When I get home I’m gonna see if that tit is in or out lmao. I will also check the seal. Either way, after researching this most of the day, your comment has gotten me the furthest so far. I’ll try to post an outcome.
If the computer will simply adjust the valve position to compensate for the deposits obstruction of airflow, is this service necessary? Is it possible for the deposits to accumulate to the point of obstructing the butterfly valves movement, or deposits are just wiped off from the movement? Is the residue harmful to the engine?
I have 2010 yaris and my car idle get rough when I come to stop and sometime idle is fine and sometimes it remain 650-700 with AC On and i cleaned full Throttle body and injector cleaning and changed spark plugs and air filter
No, just resets the memory, all the previous DTCs and recognizes new parameters or equipment, but it still will have to go through the learning process for the ECM software.
Great video! i have a Tundra 2009 crewmax, i would like to clean the throttle of my truck, but, i have a question, if i clean throttle body, i need re calibrate butterfly with some scanner?
Great video on the subject, but, I did this on my 01 Sequoia. According to my computer's readout on the upper console, I went from (normal traffic start from a red light) 5-6 MPG before, to 1-2 MPG after. What's up with that?
I just paid for this service @ Toyota today. However I have 2 complaints. Number 1. I wish I saw this video first before spending the. $140 bucks on something that takes maybe 30 minutes. Number 2. My truck was super dirty, I begin to poke around looking at the hood, open it up, look at the plastic engine cover and throttle body area. Turns out, the tech never even did the service. I’m pissed at Toyota... called my service rep immediately and they want me to come in so they can verify. Has anyone every ran into shady mechanics/ dealers before? And if so, how should I handle this IYO? I don’t want to lose my mind on them, but at the same time they need to make this right... anyways this video was legit, again wish I had seen this and just don’t it myself for 1/10th the price with my own tools and a quick trip to Autozone for cleaner.
tony penaloza happens at more dealerships that you can imagine . Not just toyota. All of them . There are always good mechanics still but unfortunalty the bad ones are not a small percentage.
I had my 01 Tundra in for a service that was to include a transmission oil and filter change at the Toyota dealership in Williamsburg Va. When I was called and told it was ready, I inspected the undercarriage and found not a single bolt on the transmission oil pan was touched, and there was still a good layer of road dust on the pan - no obvious signs of work there. Anyway, I had it out with the Service manager and asked to see the "mechanic" that supposedly performed this "service" and he stood there and lied his ass off to me about it. I contacted Toyota of America and they eventually "fixed" everything, but I took my Tundra elsewhere for service...
I spoke with Toyota, they charge 149.95 to clean, but he also said they don't remove the throttle body, they just spray in it with the engine running, how is that a good cleaning?
I took my truck to toyota dealership truck stuck in 4 hi and flashing they told me it was the front actuator charged me $140.00 and said it will cost $2800.00 to replace it. Went home looked under the truck saw that there was a torn tube that went to the center actuator and remove the three bolts to the actuator and the solder had corrosion and rust and there was no contact to engage 4 hi. Went to the junk yard, grabbed the used one and the tube popped it on and it worked.
Very interesting video.... my tundra 2010 was appear code obd : P2111… tac system stuck open position, do u tink it’s the same solution like your show in your video? Tanks Christian
I followed your directions for the throttle body and MAF sensor. My check engine light remains on. I drove it around the block. The engine light remains on, the idle was around 1200 (the engine is still cold). My traction light is on. Will it go off after the computer has made its adjustments?
Disconnect the battery for good 30 seconds and then connected back , let it warm up at operated temperature after the car is operated temperature check if the engine light comes on if you see no engine light star to drive for a while get in the highway drived to 75/80 MPH for good 15/ 20 minutes if the engine light comes out during or after you drived it means that your mass air flow sensor or your throttle body electronics system are starting to fail and don't matter how many times you cleaned is not Going to fixed. If you want to be 💯% correct get you a OB2 code scanner for a acured diagnos of the damage part , or you can go to AutoZone and they read the code for free . Good luck . ..
You don’t move the throttle body butterfly because could damage the servo motor that is positioned, the computer will learn but should not move by hand
Is it going into limp mode, any DTCs? Like P2112 or 21111, may have the FOD arrestor (screen behind the TB) backwards I've done it before! If it's running fine, it's probably just a fault from either not disconnecting the negative terminal before work on the TB or possibly an air leak from not sealing properly, IDK just some suggestions.
I wonder how many miles were on this truck. I noticed you have 109K miles. I have read, you are not supposed to move that butterfly by hand. Sounds like you are saying it's okay if you do it carefully?
There is a Toyota TB reset VlD here and the guy said with the key on/dash lights on / engine off, to depress and release the accel pedal thru its full movement in about a 3 second interval. Do that several times after cleaning it and it resets the TB circuit and idle returns to normal. Thanks for this video.
You just saved me a bunch of money and a ton of time. Cleaned the throttle body and MAF on 2007 Tundra after watching your videos, runs fantastic now! Thank you so much!
I was going to take my '04 Tundra with 250K miles to my mechanic this morning because of stalling at idle after a battery replacement. I watched your video and decided to tackle it myself. It was really simple, took about an hour and it runs fantastic!! Thanks for your help!!
Just saved my son from spending lots of $$$ at the dealership! Thank you for your fantastic channel!!
Thanks for an informative video. I’ll bet anything when you pay for this service at a dealership, they don’t fully remove the throttle body for such a thorough service and cleaning. Thanks again, I may need to tackle this myself on my 5.7 Tundra.
Thank you for making this video! Very clear, methodical, and concisely explained process, with just enough extra information/background to make the viewer feel confident in taking this job on. You are a great and humble teacher. PS, I watched your MAF sensor on the Tundra video and it assisted me with that task done concurrently yesterday.
My truck was idling low and then a little high and sometimes dying on me at red lights. Product to to mechanic shops that told me it wouldn't code and they couldn't find out what was wrong with it. I looked at the throttle body the front look like someone had sprayed it but when I took it totally off the engine the crud and filth was amazing. Truck is now running great thanks to this video thank you very much sir
After watching this video, I removed and cleaned the throttle body on my 2007 Toyota Sequoia with 249,000 miles. My Sequoia runs like new. I had a shudder when shifting from first to second and a flat spot when accelerating from idle. Both are gone! Thank you!
Great video. I have 95k. Took me 30 minutes after watching your video. Glad I didn’t agree to let the dealer sucker me into doing this 50000 miles ago. They presented it as if it was urgent. Didn’t buy it. Thanks for your help.
I'd hate to think of what a dealer would charge.
Hello, i want to thank you for such of a great help i did step by step and I cant believe i fix my Tundra 2014 never had a issu since day one only my battery went bad one time and of course tires… but today my truck was not having a good day had a check light & Tac off light on and trufk was not able to stay running it will shut off …. Had auto part help me with a scan code and i look on UA-cam i saw your video and i cant believe i fix my truck i am not a mechanic but im so proud. Thanks alot for taking your time teaching step by step thanks alot ..!!!
Cheers from WinterSprings Florida.
Thank you! Dealer wanted to charge me $100. As part of recommended maintenance for this. I am not a mechanic but I know tools and basic assembly. I’ll do this myself!
You saved my ass. I was about to take it to the shop. I did what you did here and my truck sounds like a kitten. Thank you!!
Best videos on DYI maintenance I've seen. Thank you.
EXCELLENT video.
A very common problem after changing the battery….
Thank You...I was going to disconnect the negative to the battery as well. 2017 Tundra 4x4
Just did this on my 2011 Tundra. Not as dirty as yours. My truck cranked for an extra second or 2 before starting after the procedure. It idled normal after that. I also followed your PS flush. I will be doing that along with each oil change from now on.
Thanks Peter, the high idle happened to my 1995 T100 after cleaning the throttle body and I had no idea as to when the idle would go back to normal... it took about 2 days to balance out
That screen gasket at 4:29 is the source of a common whistling noise on the Tundra / Sequoia
Well done; thanks for including the idle issues that occur after cleaning, very helpful. Now I have to go look at mine.
nice, good luck, be safe
@@ToyotaMaintenance I used to own 2 old police model crown 2005 series Victoria's on the going story that they're extremely reliable to some degree yes, but their throttle body's are incredibly sensitive so much that I broke it by shifting the valve slightly hahaha and 1300 bucks later it did run normal until both of them had extreme strut issues as well
Awesome video! Solved 2 issues for me. One of which is the jump in rpms after cleaning the t/b!!
Initially I had the P0101....MAF sensor "PERFORMANCE" problem which prompted me to research more on it. Cleaned the K&N filter...MAF sensor as well and made sure there's no leaks in the air intake. P0101 came back on shortly after all of that. The second time i took the K&N system out i noticed the throttle body to be disgustingly dirty....i mean Black all over it! Went on UA-cam found this video.
I got this truck in 2011 at 60000km.. its a 2008 5.7 SR5 double cab and have it now at 240000km and sure as shit know...no one cleaned the t/b since i know i didn't lol.
To make the story short...cleaned the t/b...reset the codes. They're GONE!BUT the rpms went to 2600! It wouldn't go down for days. Now the guy in the video says the ECU gotta relearn....
Now...in the past on some occasions when working on the truck....i had to disconnect the battery which i really didn't want to do because the engine was stalling at idle. Now i know why!
The guy said the ecu learns the new algorithms overtime as it gets dirty.....when you clean it....you give an instant brain wash! So....
I came to a conclusion! Clean t/b...clean ECU! Disconnect the positive from the battery! Itll reset the ECU to original state and since your T/B is nice and clean like new....they will sync instantly! Thank you for the video bro!
Codes are gone! Rpms normal instantly! Free fix! Well....had to get a tb cleaner lol. Thanks again!!
@@WOOPERT2001 that was the answer I was looking for...wanting to do the t.b. job done but I little afraid it would come up with that high rpm issue....feel confident now after reading these...
So disconnect the battery first before disconnecting the throttle first right?
I was skeptical this would work. My battery died and the computer reset and then had this idle problem. Engine kept dying when I slowed down. Took it out, cleaned it but not as well as he does in the video, and perfect afterwards. The small gap he showed was very interesting and also the comment about high rpm..
2007 tundra 5.7 4x4
Easiest and fastest way to relearn idle parameters and shift points on Toyota with electronic throttles that have been disconnected is disconnect negative side of battery, cover battery post to avoid contact, run a jumper wire from positive side of battery (still connected) to negative battery cable. This discharges the capacitors in the ecm (computer) from all its present memory of idle and shift points. Do so for about 30 seconds. Reconnect negative side cable to battery, start and idle engine to normal operating temperature. Then take it for a drive at normal speeds to relearn shift points. This is much quicker than waiting 2 or 3 days.
I did this on my Tundra about two years ago n holy moly nasty , thinking about doing it again this coming summer so easy to do n Toyotas are so smart n quick they relearn new idle within 5 minutes, I do everything he does only difference is I used a soft toothbrush n it works wonders
Well, I went out this am and cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor..the MAF was in good shape and looked new. (I have 08 we bought new last year and has 170+k on odo).
The throttle body was another story. It was DIRTY. I had to use a very soft brass brush to get the soot off it. The little screen was even worse. IT was gunky, as was the edge of the tube it sat in.
Thanks for the vid and for sharing your knowledge.
Great video & very helpful! Replaced the battery in our Tundra & the car keeps stalling- Apparently the computer reset to factory standard, and has yet to recognize that the throttle is dirty. Thank you for helping me solve this mystery.... Now to clean the throttle body!
Thanks for this. was able to do nice cleaning to maintain my 4.7 Tundra. This secondary air pump situation is crazy on this engine. I rerouted the pumps away from the front fender well after sucking in some water in heavy rain. Water made quite a mess with the pumps and the sensors. Maybe do a session on checking these?
Hewitt tech, you can buy a bypass kit, I put mine in about 6 months ago, I always used a always in OBD II scanner and would have to reset the codes every other day, after a few years of that I finally got the kit and zero issues!
Just another government great idea for the environment, modern version of the useless POS in the late 70s - early 80s, made the vehicle run worse, probably pollute more from misfires and flooding on carbureted engines! I have been a mechanic for over 20 years, I know the air pump system is BS, auxiliary system that can be bypassed no problem.
Thanks. Its also a good time to take out air filter box and clean all the dust and debris that ends up in the bottom. This material still gets pulled into the filter element and can be easily washed out.
true
Thank you for making this video ! Very informative , I like to do things right and its nice to have you on youtube.
Thank you teacher 👨🏫 for explaining the procedures in such detail
this fixed my stalling problem. thanks so much!
I was wondering if one could undo the two Philip head screws and remove the butterfly blade for a more thorough cleaning. Thank you
Don't, take it from a 20 + years mechanic!
A.. They're super easy to strip and there's no going back!
B.. With ETC or throttle by wire, the butterfly shaft goes into the ETC module and is indexed to a certain degree and you might as well throw it away rather than try to re-index the ETC module!
@@victorglaviano INTERESTING?
i have a 2001 tundra. my mechanic said its this. makes sense. i could start and then it would die and start again, only when it was cold. so the engine rpm would go up after ignition and fall for a moment and then go back to normal. :)
good video
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing with us tundra owners.
Great vid, I usually does the same thing you did on all the vehicles that I maintained. I always carefully clean the inside due to the seal that sealed the motor inside the IAC. It has a thermistor inside that senses the temperature of the coolant. When the coolant is cold when at first start up, the idle is high and when it reaches the operating temp. The idle will subside to bet. 730-750. All those adjustment are made by the glorious ECM that control the air, fuel, and electricity flow.
Thanks for sharing....
nice explanation thx! just what I need to learn. I'm cleaning to see if this may be responsible for my cold 5.7 engine lurching when going up a hill, going back and forth between 2200 and 2800 rpm.
Mine was so bad I had to bust out my rifle cleaning kit. Thanks for the how to
How does the vehicle run now - better ?
Awesome video. Thank you, especially on the fast idle tip!
my pleasure
Thanks Brother, I did the same thing but did not why the idle speed went to 1200 rpm.I will wait for the learning process of the ECU.LETS HOPE IT WILL BE BACK TO 650 again.
Good job, it will
I love all your videos help me a lot with my customers cars
Is there any need to replace tb gasket or torque mounting bolts?
Your channel is better than scotty
OUTSTANDING VIDEO MY FRIEND !
SUBSCRIBED !
Just got a 2011 Tundra with 46 thousand miles and will ne watching for more of your excellent video !
You are a very detailed me mechanic ..wish you lived near me ..trust your work more than the Toyota dealer.
Will-
congrats on Tundra !
About to do it to my 2011 too. Sounds like it went well, no problems? Thanks
Hope this will help my issue 09 5.7 with 182,xxx miles I replaced the battery / clamps and alternator and I have a low idle and battery guage moves around anything else I should do or look at ?
Thanks for thorough video, I'll be doing this on my Toyota
nice one. thanks for sharing how to clean a toyota throttle body.. is it the same way of cleaning to a 2016 corolla that has electronic throttle body?
Thanks...I'll be doing this to my 2015 Tundra ASAP!
do I have to disconnect the battery before removing the throttle body?
Should I get a new gasket? Is that “strainer” also a gasket? Thanks
Would pulling power help the ecu rest faster??
I tend to spay and neuter the build up and dirt. After all that is done I used a Dremel tool with the Cooper or steel brush to give it a better detailing on the TB. However since I live in Ca I don't have to worry about snow or very cold weather so i bypassed the coolant holes on the TB. My okay 1st I end up running the coolant holes to one another but later on I end up ordering an computer 80mm coolant radiator and hook it up to help cool off the coolant. I didn't bother to order the fan because it's next to the main fan it can cool the mini 80mm radiator.
My butterfly is also coated with that coating, I have no idea what it is, perhaps for corrosion control or something to make the butterfly close a certain way? It's not from carbon, it's attached to the butterfly and if I remember correctly it's only on the intake side, I can't remember!
Thank you for the video. It is very detailed! However I have few more questions for you regarding Tundra. I am getting P0441 and P2420 codes as well as often when I try to start the truck it cranks and takes few times turns before it starts. I am not sure what is causing this issue, also sometimes it will choke while driving but that doesn’t happen often. Any advise or fix you can help me with. Thank you
good shit. My 08 tundie is giving me the p0505 code and i've had a hunch it's the throttle body. If it gives me a high idle for a bit, i will enjoy it cause i have an exhaust that i love hearing on cold starts
Is it necessary to completely remove it for cleaning?
Do you have to disconnect the battery? To prevent engine code.
Great Job...I just finished my 08 tundra crewmax Many Thanks...
you are welcome
Can a dirty throttle body be the cause of an intermittent crank no start issue? Seems like every 5 crank up or so imm get crank no start. I let the car sit for a few hours and it will start. Any ideas? My throttle body has to be cleaned BTW
So I tried this on my 2011 Tundra 5.7 V8. I decided I did not want to disconnect the wire harness on the TB and the two coolant hoses. So I removed the 4 bolts, removed the throttle body, and rested it on an old towel. From here I had access to both sides of the throttle body. I did not disconnect the (-) on the battery as I followed the advice in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/XrcaDh4xDLs/v-deo.html
I did what the guy did at 2:50, I got an assistant to turn the ignition key to accessory mode (not start engine), and slowly depress the accelerator to open the butterfly valve all the way. I did not push on the plate at all myself. I cleaned all around with an old toothbrush and generous amounts of throttle body cleaner. I was careful not to push on the butterfly valve, just around/under it. In the end both sides of the butterfly valve and under it were nice and clean.
From here I tightened the 4 bolts and put my air hose back on. Started the truck. Like in the video it revved high at first about 2200rpm. After about 3-4 min the rpm dropped to normal about 1000rpm. I thought awesome that was a success! Well, not entirely. About 4 hours later I start the truck again to go drive and meet a friend. Truck starts fine but I now have 3 warning lights on my instrument panel!! "4-low" light is flashing (truck is in 2wd), traction control light is on, check engine light is on. I'm thinking "oh GREAT!"
I'm running late so I just decide to drive the truck and hope for the best. It drives totally fine despite the 3 lights on. I try to press the trac control button to turn it off. Does not work. I try to pull over and shift the truck into 4-low, then back to 4 high, then 2wd to make the flashing 4-low light go away. Does not work. At this point I'm getting a little worried.
I went to my appointment (about 3 miles/5km away). Truck sat for maybe 1 hour. When I left it started fine, no high RPM. No warning lights. I figure great it's fixed it's self! I drive back home no issues.
Truck sits for about 1 hour. I have to go out again. Start truck. It STALLS. Yes, it stalled. Now I'm scared. Start it again, no issues. Drove to where I had to go maybe 1mile/2km away. Truck sat for about 2 hours. When I went to leave it started fine, no warning lights. Drove home. Truck has been fine since.
My question is "what the heck was going on?!?!" Wad the ECU just learning the new status of the clean throttle body? The truck seems to run 100% fine now. Anything I should have done different?
Always, always, always.... Disconnect the negative terminal on any vehicle made since 2000, I can't say this enough, although it seems so simple, take it from a 20 + years mechanic. Prevents shorts, spikes, abrupt changes to the electronics all of which can kill an ECM or corrupt it like a computer HD, where clusters fail but the HD still somewhat functions... Not good in your vehicle!!
Bad seal on your TB possibly, the TB fuse burnt or the harness is messed up/damaged? Very easy to do, I even do it sometimes! That little FOD arrestor (the screen thing behind the TB), I once put it tit out and kept throwing my ECM into limp mode, but only when I accelerated quickly. So after a few days of taking the TB apart, checking the air gap and seal several times, I scratched my head and I've been a mechanic for over 20 years! Then I took apart to replace that FOD arrester and saw it tits out, it was indexed properly on the top just ass backwards! So I flipped it and of course my throttle actuator stuck close (P2112) disappeared! Since the butterfly could actually fully open... Hence why it went into limp mode when I fully accelerated, because it couldn't fully open!
Start simple then work up to complex, most people want to assume the worst when it's usually something simple and people spend a $1,000 on a $10.00 problem!
@@victorglaviano alright sir, I swear if this fixes mine, I’m gonna buy you a beer. I cleaned my TB a couple days ago. I started it to let it idle for a while until the idle came down. Drove it 2 days later (this morning) got a p2112 on the highway when I gave it more throttle. Code hit, went into limp mode, then the side of the highway I reset the code. Started slow, it was fine then more throttle, bam, did it again. Limped to a side road, reset MIL again, took it slow home a few miles no code… had to use the secondary car to go to work. So your comment sounds like my problem. When I get home I’m gonna see if that tit is in or out lmao. I will also check the seal. Either way, after researching this most of the day, your comment has gotten me the furthest so far. I’ll try to post an outcome.
My truck dies if it idles for an hour or if I drive over 3000 rpm’s while towing and I let up on the gas. Could it be throttle body problem?
If the computer will simply adjust the valve position to compensate for the deposits obstruction of airflow, is this service necessary? Is it possible for the deposits to accumulate to the point of obstructing the butterfly valves movement, or deposits are just wiped off from the movement? Is the residue harmful to the engine?
Is there an IAC valve on the Tundra throttle body? I was wondering if we need to clean this as well when servicing the throttle body?
I have 2010 yaris and my car idle get rough when I come to stop and sometime idle is fine and sometimes it remain 650-700 with AC On and i cleaned full Throttle body and injector cleaning and changed spark plugs and air filter
Thanks for all you videos do you think i need to get a new gasket or used the existing one my truck have little over 100k miles Thanks
Perfect video, thankyou. Youve saved me a lot of money, a lot.
Glad to hear that
Thank you my friend
Can't you just disconnect the negative battery terminal for a while? Won't that force the computer to relearn the engine conditions?
No, just resets the memory, all the previous DTCs and recognizes new parameters or equipment, but it still will have to go through the learning process for the ECM software.
Great video! i have a Tundra 2009 crewmax, i would like to clean the throttle of my truck, but, i have a question, if i clean throttle body, i need re calibrate butterfly with some scanner?
no need
Awesome, highly detailed video! Thank you : )
you are welcome...
Thanks for sharing this information, great job explaining things.
Is this the same process on a 2003 4.7 ltr?
I know the Throttle body location is slightly different.
Thanks anyone!
Sir,I have 2002model Corolla (1.8)car engine cool time,drive(D) is not working,starting after half hour is ok☹️ What is the problem sir...?
Great video on the subject, but, I did this on my 01 Sequoia. According to my computer's readout on the upper console, I went from (normal traffic start from a red light) 5-6 MPG before, to 1-2 MPG after. What's up with that?
I been having code p0308 and traction controll off i already changed spark plugs and coils any ideas
Very informative and helpful. Thank you sir.
I just paid for this service @ Toyota today. However I have 2 complaints. Number 1. I wish I saw this video first before spending the. $140 bucks on something that takes maybe 30 minutes. Number 2. My truck was super dirty, I begin to poke around looking at the hood, open it up, look at the plastic engine cover and throttle body area. Turns out, the tech never even did the service. I’m pissed at Toyota... called my service rep immediately and they want me to come in so they can verify. Has anyone every ran into shady mechanics/ dealers before? And if so, how should I handle this IYO? I don’t want to lose my mind on them, but at the same time they need to make this right... anyways this video was legit, again wish I had seen this and just don’t it myself for 1/10th the price with my own tools and a quick trip to Autozone for cleaner.
tony penaloza happens at more dealerships that you can imagine . Not just toyota. All of them . There are always good mechanics still but unfortunalty the bad ones are not a small percentage.
I had my 01 Tundra in for a service that was to include a transmission oil and filter change at the Toyota dealership in Williamsburg Va. When I was called and told it was ready, I inspected the undercarriage and found not a single bolt on the transmission oil pan was touched, and there was still a good layer of road dust on the pan - no obvious signs of work there. Anyway, I had it out with the Service manager and asked to see the "mechanic" that supposedly performed this "service" and he stood there and lied his ass off to me about it. I contacted Toyota of America and they eventually "fixed" everything, but I took my Tundra elsewhere for service...
I spoke with Toyota, they charge 149.95 to clean, but he also said they don't remove the throttle body, they just spray in it with the engine running, how is that a good cleaning?
I took my truck to toyota dealership truck stuck in 4 hi and flashing they told me it was the front actuator charged me $140.00 and said it will cost $2800.00 to replace it. Went home looked under the truck saw that there was a torn tube that went to the center actuator and remove the three bolts to the actuator and the solder had corrosion and rust and there was no contact to engage 4 hi. Went to the junk yard, grabbed the used one and the tube popped it on and it worked.
Well? What did they do? I know it’s been a year but you never updated. Just curious if they did it this time.
Great Teacher!!!! Very help full videos.
Excellent video! Well presented with good pace and thorough explanation of every aspect. A++++++++++!!!!!!!!! Thank you.
you are welcome
Thank you sir 🍀
Does a 2006 Toyota Tundra V8 4.7L have a Manifold Air Pressure sensor(MAP) or only a MAF?
Nice video dear you saved me time of removing the air filter and it's cover.. subscribed..
nice
I have a 2007 toyota tundra 5.7 v8 4x4, it's starts but doesn't stays on?? Any trouble shooting you recommend for.this issue...
What is the correct idle speed when full warmed up on 3.4l automatic 4Runner?
Great video 🤠👍
Very interesting video.... my tundra 2010 was appear code obd : P2111… tac system stuck open position, do u tink it’s the same solution like your show in your video?
Tanks
Christian
Thanks again. You saved me money
You are hired...great videos.
I followed your directions for the throttle body and MAF sensor.
My check engine light remains on. I drove it around the block. The engine light remains on, the idle was around 1200 (the engine is still cold). My traction light is on.
Will it go off after the computer has made its adjustments?
Disconnect the battery for good 30 seconds and then connected back , let it warm up at operated temperature after the car is operated temperature check if the engine light comes on if you see no engine light star to drive for a while get in the highway drived to 75/80 MPH for good 15/ 20 minutes if the engine light comes out during or after you drived it means that your mass air flow sensor or your throttle body electronics system are starting to fail and don't matter how many times you cleaned is not Going to fixed. If you want to be 💯% correct get you a OB2 code scanner for a acured diagnos of the damage part , or you can go to AutoZone and they read the code for free .
Good luck . ..
Going to be doing this to my Lexus GS350 when I change the plugs!
nice....
Where did you get the clamps for the coolant hoses?
search on ebay for Hose Pincher Pliers Crimping Pinch-Off Kit
What’s the torque spec for the 4 10mm bolts? Thanks
Great video. Learned a lot tonight. Thank you.
you are welcome....
Couldn't you just disconnect battery to reset it?
You don’t move the throttle body butterfly because could damage the servo motor that is positioned, the computer will learn but should not move by hand
Thank you!
Can I do this to my 2018 tundra with 50k on it thanks
great video. learned alot. I have a LX 470 2003. Any info on that engine and maintenance is appreciated. Take care
I need to find some Lexus for service and filming, true....
After preforming this maintenance on my tundra I received a check engine light and trac off light. Any idea how to remove these codes ?
Is it going into limp mode, any DTCs? Like P2112 or 21111, may have the FOD arrestor (screen behind the TB) backwards I've done it before!
If it's running fine, it's probably just a fault from either not disconnecting the negative terminal before work on the TB or possibly an air leak from not sealing properly, IDK just some suggestions.
Dude I want to hire you to work on my vehicles. Where is your shop?
Awesome job
I wonder how many miles were on this truck. I noticed you have 109K miles. I have read, you are not supposed to move that butterfly by hand. Sounds like you are saying it's okay if you do it carefully?