I believe I'm speaking for most subscribers here. We need more videos like this one. This is the knowledge we're looking for from your channel and you're great at explaining this stuff
whole heartily agree. Many of your followers likely have a scan tool or use apps like Torque Pro and an ELM based OBD2 scanner. It would be great if your knowledge would teach us to use these tools to the fullest.
Another great video, Ahmed, thank you. 42 year plus retired auto tech here. One thing I would add to the video that I’m sure you are fully aware of. Be aware of any unmeasured air entering the intake, ie cracked or deteriorated air boot between the air box/MAF sensor and throttle body. Poorly installed air boot that may be folded, where connected at either end. Large intake manifold leak, rotted or cracked PCV hose, etc. I know it’s a bit risky, but what I always used was contact cleaner and a very fine tipped artists paint brush to just gently run over the wires, but that was my choice. And be wary of some of these aftermarket performance, air intakes and filters. Thank you once again for your great information to the masses. 😊
I cleaned the MAF and Throttle Body after dealing with a rough idle at deceleration for several years on my ‘12 Highlander with 235,000 miles. The performance and behavior dramatically changed in a positive way. This was a very easy DIY anyone can do with basic tools and patience. Make sure you use the proper solvents designed to clean those parts!
I was surprised you didn't mention what you stressed in another video: " Never, Ever buy an aftermarket MAS ", Great Video I did learn something, and thank you.
@@jimbergen5232 if not buying an aftermarket part where do you think you might order OEM (other than from a dealership) Rock Auto!! Yes. Except third gen 4Runner MAF sensors are made by TOYOTA.
Not a Toyota owner, have a Honda excellent tip! I recently went to the dealer where I bought the car in 2004 and they were trying to sell me throttle body cleaning, brake fluid replacement, power steering fluid flush and also add fuel injector cleaner. I am convinced that they didn’t examine the condition of the fluids but based their recommendations on the mileage of my Honda Element 242,000. Only problem I had the power steering high pressure hose at a local repair shop that I trust, brake fluid my son (slave on notice) replaced as well as new rotors, pads and one seized caliper. When I mentioned it to the service person they had no answer. I routinely add fuel injector cleaner to my car, especially when I am driving long distance. Thanks so much for your tip, just saved me some $$
Thank you for that simple explanation of how the MAF sensor works. You made it clear that diagnosis is key to doing any repair on a car. I blame Scotty Kilmer as he has purposed the simple solution of cleaning a MAF sensor even before any diagnosis with a scan tool. You made it clear that a MAF sensor shouldn't be touched until a proper diagosis is made. Thanks again for the good advice you give to your viewers.
Yes something so small!! I cleaned it and the throttle body in my daughter’s old 2012 Sienna and she asked if I replaced the engine, the improvements were that noticeable!!
In 2011 i did my MAF just for the sake of it & no issues at all for (10 yrs on zero issues,2002 Yaris) i did it so everything is tip top & there's nothing to worry about in years to come, why wait for the CEL (Check Engine Light) to come on then you gotta resolve it but in the meantime the engine may be putting in more fuel which nobody wants.
I know someone that was always getting a new MAF every two - three years. Guess why? He ran those gimmicky K&N Oiled filters. The oil will coat the MAF and attract dirt and corrode. Cleaning is only temporary unless you go back to OEM filtration. Aftermarket only want your money.
@@ishaqthkr they are pointless. I supercharged my civic and I left the stock intake and panel filter. If I can pull enough air to run 9Lbs of boost through the stock filter, the stock filter flows plenty of air and there is no reason to change it out for a high flow filter.
@@volvo09 there you go, it depends on vehicle to vehicle, i have a diesel Toyota and a High flow filter works better than paper filter. And the jury is out there where paper filter actually captured less dust than High flow when compared on the clean side on an airbox
I have tried them over the years Depends on what type your using the big round one's with the intake horn does decrease the differential pressure across the filter... The drop in K&N filters just terrible stick with the OEM.. oiling can be an issue too especially to the more sensitive air flow meters
I am in job service department Toyota Indus motor company here in Karachi port qasim car esammbally plant.. your all videos I am see your experience and explain any faults is very easy .. thanks
Last year, I was getting a "lean" code on my 2002 1MZ-FE Highlander. Cleaned the MAF but code came back. I found Toyota Technical Support Bulletin EG-5014, followed the procedure, and found the long term fuel trims for both banks were out of spec. The MAF data (g/sec) was also out of spec per the procedure, indicating a bad sensor. Replaced it and life is good.
The Car Care Nut is so cool, he has made me become a Vintage Toyota Care Nut servicing my 1993 5 speed 4x4 4Runner with 350,000 miles on the original 3.0(Thank you Amsoil and Amd).🙂
An oiled air filter such as K&N can foul the MAF sensor if it introduces oil droplets in the inlet air. Happened to my Toyota Avalon after installing a K&N filter. I went back to a standard (dry) filter and had no further issues.
😳 what are the odds that I'm having this problem right now at this very moment and I'm having lean codes P0171 and I'm trying to pass the emission test and this video pops up😄 Thank you for this video it's like my prayers have been answered 🙏
Perfect timing! My wife's 09 Corolla XRS 2.4L threw a 0171 lean code. I test drove it with the scan tool & promptly found the LTFT at 22-31% at idle & low load. It drops to around 9% at WOT over 100MPH. My first thought is a large vacuum leak so I'm going to visually inspect & find a cigar for the smoke test. But first I'll go check the calculated load. With 264K miles it could be anything. It has been a great car & uses about a quart of oil over a 4500-5K mile OCI. All of this in spite of some some severe neglect early on. She once called me to ask what to do about the oil light being on. It was two quarts low! I told her what viscosity to buy and how to put it in and that little 2.4 has run another 200K miles since then. People sometimes badmouth the 2.4 but I believe most of those oil problems were maintenance related. Thank you for another fine video!
Great video! I don't DIY (much), but do own a Toyota and find these videos fascinating. Mostly i just like understanding what is going on with my 4Runner. Thank you so much for giving of your time!
Thank you for your utmost in-depth videos of every aspect of the way cars are made from the past and present times. It goes to show car manufacturers are not so squeaky clean and honest with its loyal customers. No such thing as loyalty anymore. Keep it up Ahmed and thank you once again. 🙏
I wish I lived closer to you! I’ve got a 2012 Tacoma with 404,000 kms on it. I’ve done all the basic maintenance as problems came up but I’ve never changed any fluids or checked any sensors. If I brought it to the Toyota dealership I bought it from……they’d say everything needs to be replaced!
Yes. I do think it's good practice to clean the MAF sensor. I do mine on my cars once a year. I found a bug wing on the one in my 2000 trans am. A few 1-second burst of some MAF cleaner. Boom! Done
Great info! I’ve got a 1999 and a 2001 and have never had an issue with the MAF. Never looked at them or cleaned them. Great to know how to test them though. I wouldn’t have thought about the calculated load reading. Thanks.
For so long, have been experiencing near engine stalling during acceleration from idle on my 2002 Corolla. I will just press more on gas pedal to compensate the engine hiccups. I initially thought of dirty fuel filter. My mechanic troubledshoot by replacing the MAF sensor with the MAF sensors of other Toyotas in his garage. Walahh, turned out the MAF sensor is the culprit despite cleaning it. Replaced it with a second hand unit. Now car runs so much better.
This video is perfectly timed. I’m having doubts about the MAF sensor on my 2021 RAV4 with 74k miles on it. Haven’t really started any checks/diagnostics, and there is no check engine light. The car runs fine, but once in a while it’ll do rattling type vibration at idle, similar to the engine not getting enough fuel. Hopefully it’s just the sensor, and all it needs is a cleaning.
Incredibly valuable info, thanks AMD! I look forward to each new video you produce. One thing I’d like to see is a video dedicated to scan tools and scan apps that Toyota owners can buy. There are so many that it’s difficult to know which ones will sufficiently diagnose the issues we may come across with our beloved Toyotas.
@@subtegral ~Don't buy OE or OEM parts from the dealer. Find out who the OE manufacturer is for the particular part, and buy that OEM brand part from a trusted auto parts retailer. Same part, same manufacturer for less money. It just won't have "Toyota" embossed on the part. In fact on some OEM parts you can see where the automakers brand was ground off. (For anybody who doesn't know, OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer.)
One think that should be mention for calculated load. At sea level, calculated load can be close to or even 100%. But at higher altitude, will start to drop. So seeing 78% calculated load at a 7000 ft above sea level can be normal.
You are coming exactly with the video for what I believe need for my 2015 jetta. Start having a misfire, I blame the ignition coil. But I think this could be the problem becoze epc light come one. Thanks for making videos
Ahmed, I clean mine every other couple of oil changes, not only on the ISF, but the Subaru two with the appropriate cleaner from CRC…. At the same time while I’m in there, I clean throttle bodies. I do notice a difference, I do clean it lightly and let it dry, but now after watching this video, I think I will stop and try your method. Thank you.
I drive a 20 year old Avalon. There is no set time for cleaning or replacement the Mass air filter. May be lifetime. However some sites would say replace every 80,000 - 150,000 miles. I did not know about scans, and I don't have a second person to go on a road test. It is easy to take it out and clean it. It is potentially very easy to damage. I cleaned it a few times and finally replaced it. I probably will not replace it again during the lifetime of the car. Yes, you have to keep track of things. I have free lifetime alignment. I replaced the 4 strut assemblies on Tuesday. I went to the national car service store and had the alignment done for free. And, received a recommendation to replace the air filter and to clean the throttle body . Of course, I last inspected the air filter about two months ago and have an OEM unit in inventory which does not cost the $40 that the service store would charge. The throttle body was last cleaned 8000 miles ago! What we need is direction on cleaning the catalytic converter. Mine is bolted on and not welded. Even a weld can be cut and redone. My understanding is one can clean it is a solution of dish washing liquid soap with a lot of water, dry and re-install. What do you do?
My 1990 BMW with a mechanical air flow meter still runs like a champ. (Sorry, I have to confess that I am a BMW owner that listens religiously to the CCN channel).
The one with the moveable vane was known as a Vane Air Meter and often had a Intake Air Sensor, and in some a fuel pump switch as well. The rest you speak of is true.
Awesome tip! I own a 2006 Toyota Highland Hybrid and two Hondas. I'm going to do the CALC test on all my cars to get a good working baseline reading in order to compare with future CALC readings as the years go by.
Yes, I’m surprised he didn’t mention MAF cleaner specifically to be used. He mentioned electrical cleaner (and god forbid brake clean) but I wouldn’t personally feel comfortable using basic electrical cleaner. I’ll assume CRC has both for a reason. Use the right product, it’s pretty delicate.
Another great video! Many thanks for all the useful information you share on your channel. Admire your dedication, God bless! BTW... Jose does a great job editing as well! Thank you!
if it goes bad always use the same brand as the OEM supplier. I picked one up from the parts store one time and the car ran ok. later on after doing some mods and ECU flash I picked up a used OEM Hitachi brand one at a salvage yard and it made a huge difference. right away the idle was way more stable and the engine was definitely more responsive and felt more powerful.
Got a yellow engine light that has come on a couple of times on the 24-year-old Corolla I have. Cleaning the maf sensor works great. Last time it was P0141 code. I did cleaning and reset. After all, this is the only engine problem I've had with the toyota, so I'll survive 😁
Okay. Using Torque Lite and my trusty OBDII scanner, my MAF sensor readings are as follows: ✅ Morning start ambient temp: 59°F outside, 59°F air intake temperature. ✅ The Mass Air Flow rate grams per second is within factory service manual specs both at idle and held at 2500 rpm. ✅ Engine Load percentage reaches 83% at full throttle in 3rd gear with my 5-speed manual transmission.
Thanks for putting this out. I have a 2007 Camry with 181,000 miles (That didn't get the engine piston ring rebuild unfortunately) that started having problems with the motor a couple of months ago. When I was driving home from work, the Camry started losing power to the engine after I floored the gas a couple of times for a brief few seconds. Suddenly the car had trouble delivering power above 1500-2000 RPM. I could barely reach 45 MPH and had a difficult time getting the car up small hilly roads. the engine also started making a knocking sound. My friend brought his computer to diagnose it, but the only code we were getting was P0420: catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1). He recommend that I replace the O2 sensor. I went to Autozone to buy one, and after telling the workers at the store what happened, he said I should also clean the mass airflow sensor. I bought a can of CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner and cleaned it myself. But now that you mention in the video how delicate it that sensor is, I wonder if I cleaned it properly. The can comes with a plastic red straw, and I sprayed directly at the sensor. The Camry started running fine again after replacing the O2 sensor and cleaning the mass airflow sensor, but the engine problem came back up again 1 and a half months later, but not as severe. This time the engine power would drop and sputter if I pressed the gas to get the engine to run above 2000 to 2500 RPM. I replaced the spark plug plugs with a Denso Iridium set and reset the computer a second time. But I'm leaning towards replacing the mass airflow sensor after watching this informative video. Thanks!
Oil burner Camry. Your exhaust is clogged at the converter. Hook up pressure gauges and you'll see a few psi drop across the converter during idle. A new converter will clog again due to oil burning engine. Replace the converter with a straight pipe if your state does not do emission test or tear down the engine to replace the oil control piston rings.
"But officer, I was just checking my calculated load." I don't think that'll hold up in court. Use a scanner with data logging. My car reaches 7k RPM real quick and measuring at a higher gear to get more time will land a person under the jail if you do it on the street. Good info about cleaning them too much. That probably explains why mine got worse over a short time. We'd clean it before each race. I thought it might have been from vibration being it was hard mounted to the chassis. Also, good info about using high pressure air. We destroyed the filaments by doing that. I thought we did but we didn't kind of thing with the air regulator.
My maf sensor got dirty because my mechanic forgot to latch my air filter housing all the way when I was checking to see if I needed a new one. I ended up having to clean it myself as well as the throttle body and now it runs really good.
In 2011 i did my MAF just for the sake of it & no issues for many,many years (10 yrs in fact,2002 Yaris) i did it so everything is tip top & there's nothing to worry about in years to come, why wait for the CEL (Check Engine Light) to come on then you gotta resolve it but in the meantime the engine may be putting in more fuel which nobody wants.
Hey AMD, love your videos, best car channel I've come across on youtube for real, sending love from the middle east. Would really love if you did a video about high fuel consumption issues in Toyota & Lexus and how to properly diagnose them and fix them, Thanks!!!
GJ! Pls consider reviewing the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV and the Nissan Sentra or the Kicks Plus a car with a Chinese platform like Volvo or Lotus Also a Porche and a Ferrari if possible 🤍 Appreciated!
I wish I could replace the MAF sensor on my 87 Supra with a hot wire one. It runs fine but I just wonder and plus I think it would flow better with out the door. You said exactly what I thought they were, a door on a POT. And POTS always need cleaned after years of use.
I had a sequoia that was having issues so I got it pretty cheap. When I checked the MAF it was visibly dirty. I cleaned it, changed the air filter and it ran perfectly.
Hmmmm...I have a '98 4R (5VZ-FE) and have a ScanGaugeIII on the dash.....I can't find 'Calculated Load'...but I do have an 'Engine Load' readout...is this possibly the same (or not)? Love this channel....learn a LOT every time I watch.
Volumetric efficiency testing is good for testing MAF sensors too. Record the following PIDs during a wide-open throttle run: IAT in Celsius, MAF in g/s, RPM, and BARO in Pascals. Take the numbers from the frame with the highest MAF value and plug them into the following equation: V.E. = (IAT + 273.15)*34,440*MAF/RPM/BARO/(engine displacement in liters). The pass value for V.E. depends on your engine type. If your engine fails the V.E. test and fuel trims are bad, then it means you have an input problem (MAF sensor problem). If your engine passes the V.E. test and fuel trims are bad, then it means you have a fuel delivery problem. If your engine fails the V.E. test and fuel trims are good, then it means you have a clogged exhaust. (The above equation for volumetric efficiency was purposely rearranged to make it easier to enter into a calculator. An alternative is to enter the numbers into an online volumetric efficiency calculator.)
We see so many more issues with MAF sensors in the shop once people have discarded the factory air box for a Custom Hot Air Intake system. People need to know that if they insist on making their air intake noisier that they should keep the filter oil to a minimum. :)
According to my The Factory Service manual for my 2007 Camry--- HINT: When any of these DTCs are set, check the air-flow rate by entering the following menus on the intelligent tester: DIAGNOSIS / ENHANCED OBD II / DATA LIST / PRIMARY / MAF. if the airflow rate reads 0.0 grams per second (gm/s); there is an open in Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter power source circuit or an open or short in VG circuit. If the airflow reads 271.0 or more gm/s, there is an open in the EVG circuit. The error codes related to MAF are P0100, P0102 and P0103 on my 2007 Camry. I don't know if Toyota uses different codes for each of their car models.
I left LesSchwab tires one time after waiting all day for them to change some suspension parts on my ‘04 Camry with 250K and as I drove away it had started fine and idled fine but as I gassed it, it would surge and buck until I got up to speed. At speed it ran perfectly. I pulled over and checked under the hood and found my intake had been loosened and had a gap just after the MAS. That allowed the intake air to bypass the MAS and it was throwing off the computer, engine speed and air speed were out of sync. I got the vehicle home and cleaned the sensor with MAS cleaner since it was apart put it back together and it has run perfectly since. To this day I have no idea why they were messing around with the air intake when they were working on the front control arms. One thing you left off for things that destroy a MAS is over oiling wet type (K&N) air filter. The excess oil gets on the hot wire and causes it to burn out prematurely.
I had an after market MAF installed and I noticed my MPG's dropped by almost 5 mpg per tankful. At the same time, I notice an uptick in speed and accelaration. Also read that you should only replace with OEM only.
There is another MAF type fitted to the early 1990s LS400s, the Karman Vortex type which apparently requires no servicing. My 1994 Toyota Celsior was 30 years old and 102K miles when I sold it and never had a MAF issue during my ownership.
On my petrol BMW after 100,000 km the idle speed started to fluctuate slightly (this was visible from the tachometer needle and a slight change in engine vibration). After replacing the MAP the speed became stable again. Ahmet, thanks for the video.
I have enough trouble treating my wife with love and respect. Now I have to treat my mass air flow sensor with love and respect? I'm going to be stressed out. I'm also not sure which of the two is more delicate.
I have been cleaning my MAF sensor every 20,000 miles with MAF sensor spray cleaner. Haven't had any problems yet with my 2008 Toyota Tundra, 5.7. I also remove and clean my throttle body about every 50,000 miles. My Tundra currently has 110,00 miles on it. I am very careful when I clean the MAF sensor.
The film/grime build up is primarily from hydrocarbons that vent back out of the intake when the motor is shut off. Later Toyotas use a carbon trap in the airbox to trap them from going into the atmosphere and then next time the motor is fired up is draws them in and burns them. Unfortunately, the MAF is exposed to all of that so it builds up over time. I usually clean MAFs every 10k.
I'm surprised you didn't mention the Vortex MAF? I had a problem six months ago with my 1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 running a V6. One day went out to start it and it started then stalled. Then no spark. After checking several things, I ended up removing the Vortex MAF sensor and blowing it out with compressed air, then it started and ran fine. Yesterday, same issue. Started, stalled, wouldn't restart, no spark. Did the same procedure as the first time and it is now running fine again. BTW ordered a new MAF sensor same day.
I believe I'm speaking for most subscribers here. We need more videos like this one. This is the knowledge we're looking for from your channel and you're great at explaining this stuff
whole heartily agree. Many of your followers likely have a scan tool or use apps like Torque Pro and an ELM based OBD2 scanner. It would be great if your knowledge would teach us to use these tools to the fullest.
Every video on this channel is well worth watching but so far, less than 3% of subscribers have bothered to watch this one. 🤔
@@1northsparrow246most of his subs find having good gas mileage and acceleration too boring.
Yesss, specifically for the 4Runner.. asking for a friend😂
@@ryanm4319😂 😂
Another great video, Ahmed, thank you. 42 year plus retired auto tech here. One thing I would add to the video that I’m sure you are fully aware of. Be aware of any unmeasured air entering the intake, ie cracked or deteriorated air boot between the air box/MAF sensor and throttle body. Poorly installed air boot that may be folded, where connected at either end. Large intake manifold leak, rotted or cracked PCV hose, etc. I know it’s a bit risky, but what I always used was contact cleaner and a very fine tipped artists paint brush to just gently run over the wires, but that was my choice. And be wary of some of these aftermarket performance, air intakes and filters. Thank you once again for your great information to the masses. 😊
I cleaned the MAF and Throttle Body after dealing with a rough idle at deceleration for several years on my ‘12 Highlander with 235,000 miles. The performance and behavior dramatically changed in a positive way. This was a very easy DIY anyone can do with basic tools and patience. Make sure you use the proper solvents designed to clean those parts!
Yes, proper solvents is a must & only MAF cleaner/electrical cleaner as Amd mentioned in the video.
I was surprised you didn't mention what you stressed in another video: " Never, Ever buy an aftermarket MAS ", Great Video I did learn something, and thank you.
Okay.
So if your dealerships wanted $870 for a MAF sensor you would just pay it?
@@subtegral You replied to the wrong person, because I didn't say anything to the sort. This is a DIY program.
@@jimbergen5232 if not buying an aftermarket part where do you think you might order OEM (other than from a dealership) Rock Auto!! Yes. Except third gen 4Runner MAF sensors are made by TOYOTA.
@@subtegral Dealer ? Ok, you win, I am wrong. Have a great afternoon.
@@subtegralYes, this is one of those parts you absolutely should.
Most are ~$150 though.
Not a Toyota owner, have a Honda excellent tip! I recently went to the dealer where I bought the car in 2004 and they were trying to sell me throttle body cleaning, brake fluid replacement, power steering fluid flush and also add fuel injector cleaner. I am convinced that they didn’t examine the condition of the fluids but based their recommendations on the mileage of my Honda Element 242,000. Only problem I had the power steering high pressure hose at a local repair shop that I trust, brake fluid my son (slave on notice) replaced as well as new rotors, pads and one seized caliper. When I mentioned it to the service person they had no answer. I routinely add fuel injector cleaner to my car, especially when I am driving long distance. Thanks so much for your tip, just saved me some $$
Thank you for that simple explanation of how the MAF sensor works. You made it clear that diagnosis is key to doing any repair on a car. I blame Scotty Kilmer as he has purposed the simple solution of cleaning a MAF sensor even before any diagnosis with a scan tool. You made it clear that a MAF sensor shouldn't be touched until a proper diagosis is made. Thanks again for the good advice you give to your viewers.
The 'Calculate Load' tip is gold. Thank you for sharing!👍
He said "calculated".
@@subtegral Yes he did. I was talking about the parameter shown on the scan tool @8:35
@@sdrifter13 I know.
Yes something so small!! I cleaned it and the throttle body in my daughter’s old 2012 Sienna and she asked if I replaced the engine, the improvements were that noticeable!!
Great advice. Cleaning the MAP was on my DIY "just because" list but I wasn't having any engine issues. I'm going to leave it alone.
In 2011 i did my MAF just for the sake of it & no issues at all for (10 yrs on zero issues,2002 Yaris) i did it so everything is tip top & there's nothing to worry about in years to come, why wait for the CEL (Check Engine Light) to come on then you gotta resolve it but in the meantime the engine may be putting in more fuel which nobody wants.
It's MAF, not MAP.
@@tardeliesmagic you're missing the point. You could have tested your MAF sensor in 2011 before bothering to remove and clean it, but you didn't.
@@subtegral Case in point. I don't even know what it's called so I shouldn't be messing with it.
@@joebush1663 MAF = Mass Air Flow
I know someone that was always getting a new MAF every two - three years. Guess why? He ran those gimmicky K&N Oiled filters. The oil will coat the MAF and attract dirt and corrode. Cleaning is only temporary unless you go back to OEM filtration. Aftermarket only want your money.
They are not gimmicky, only over oiling that's a problem
@@ishaqthkr they are pointless.
I supercharged my civic and I left the stock intake and panel filter. If I can pull enough air to run 9Lbs of boost through the stock filter, the stock filter flows plenty of air and there is no reason to change it out for a high flow filter.
@@volvo09 there you go, it depends on vehicle to vehicle, i have a diesel Toyota and a High flow filter works better than paper filter. And the jury is out there where paper filter actually captured less dust than High flow when compared on the clean side on an airbox
@@ishaqthkryes they are useless. If you want squeeze the last 3-4hp potential... you should invest much more before that.
I have tried them over the years Depends on what type your using the big round one's with the intake horn does decrease the differential pressure across the filter... The drop in K&N filters just terrible stick with the OEM.. oiling can be an issue too especially to the more sensitive air flow meters
I really enjoy how humble and basic your channel and knowledge is, please dont change. Thank you
brown noser
I am in job service department Toyota Indus motor company here in Karachi port qasim car esammbally plant.. your all videos I am see your experience and explain any faults is very easy .. thanks
Last year, I was getting a "lean" code on my 2002 1MZ-FE Highlander. Cleaned the MAF but code came back. I found Toyota Technical Support Bulletin EG-5014, followed the procedure, and found the long term fuel trims for both banks were out of spec. The MAF data (g/sec) was also out of spec per the procedure, indicating a bad sensor. Replaced it and life is good.
Fuel trims can tell a lot. One of the first things to check for air or fuel issues.
Did you lose anything else such as time cost add salon
@@sofiaisaac50 not sure I understand your question
The Car Care Nut is so cool, he has made me become a Vintage Toyota Care Nut servicing my 1993 5 speed 4x4 4Runner with 350,000 miles on the original 3.0(Thank you Amsoil and Amd).🙂
An oiled air filter such as K&N can foul the MAF sensor if it introduces oil droplets in the inlet air. Happened to my Toyota Avalon after installing a K&N filter. I went back to a standard (dry) filter and had no further issues.
😳 what are the odds that I'm having this problem right now at this very moment and I'm having lean codes P0171 and I'm trying to pass the emission test and this video pops up😄
Thank you for this video it's like my prayers have been answered 🙏
Watch fuel trim videos a maf is only one of multiple possibilities
Perfect timing! My wife's 09 Corolla XRS 2.4L threw a 0171 lean code. I test drove it with the scan tool & promptly found the LTFT at 22-31% at idle & low load. It drops to around 9% at WOT over 100MPH. My first thought is a large vacuum leak so I'm going to visually inspect & find a cigar for the smoke test. But first I'll go check the calculated load. With 264K miles it could be anything. It has been a great car & uses about a quart of oil over a 4500-5K mile OCI. All of this in spite of some some severe neglect early on. She once called me to ask what to do about the oil light being on. It was two quarts low! I told her what viscosity to buy and how to put it in and that little 2.4 has run another 200K miles since then. People sometimes badmouth the 2.4 but I believe most of those oil problems were maintenance related. Thank you for another fine video!
Great video! I don't DIY (much), but do own a Toyota and find these videos fascinating. Mostly i just like understanding what is going on with my 4Runner. Thank you so much for giving of your time!
Thank you for your utmost in-depth videos of every aspect of the way cars are made from the past and present times. It goes to show car manufacturers are not so squeaky clean and honest with its loyal customers. No such thing as loyalty anymore. Keep it up Ahmed and thank you once again. 🙏
I wish I lived closer to you! I’ve got a 2012 Tacoma with 404,000 kms on it. I’ve done all the basic maintenance as problems came up but I’ve never changed any fluids or checked any sensors. If I brought it to the Toyota dealership I bought it from……they’d say everything needs to be replaced!
They're not wrong
Well yeah, you suck at maintaing a vehicle 😂😂😂😂
Learn to maintain a toyota
Even IF you did live in Chicagoland, like I do, the chances of getting a car to TCCN's shop are slim. That dude has a BUSY shop! : )
Yes. I do think it's good practice to clean the MAF sensor. I do mine on my cars once a year. I found a bug wing on the one in my 2000 trans am. A few 1-second burst of some MAF cleaner. Boom! Done
Great info! I’ve got a 1999 and a 2001 and have never had an issue with the MAF. Never looked at them or cleaned them. Great to know how to test them though. I wouldn’t have thought about the calculated load reading. Thanks.
For so long, have been experiencing near engine stalling during acceleration from idle on my 2002 Corolla. I will just press more on gas pedal to compensate the engine hiccups. I initially thought of dirty fuel filter.
My mechanic troubledshoot by replacing the MAF sensor with the MAF sensors of other Toyotas in his garage. Walahh, turned out the MAF sensor is the culprit despite cleaning it. Replaced it with a second hand unit. Now car runs so much better.
This video is perfectly timed. I’m having doubts about the MAF sensor on my 2021 RAV4 with 74k miles on it. Haven’t really started any checks/diagnostics, and there is no check engine light. The car runs fine, but once in a while it’ll do rattling type vibration at idle, similar to the engine not getting enough fuel. Hopefully it’s just the sensor, and all it needs is a cleaning.
It could just be in need of spark plugs.
Incredibly valuable info, thanks AMD! I look forward to each new video you produce.
One thing I’d like to see is a video dedicated to scan tools and scan apps that Toyota owners can buy. There are so many that it’s difficult to know which ones will sufficiently diagnose the issues we may come across with our beloved Toyotas.
He already uploaded videos about OBDII scanners. He also kept three of them listed in his video descriptions.
Thanks! Very interesting indeed! I have often wondered why MAFs can be busted but not set codes. I promise not to clean mine anymore!
Great video. One more thing to add, never and ever replace the oem MAF with an aftermarket one.
Amen to that! OEM all the way! I've seen so many times a cheap sensor from Amazon cause so many problems.
You are 100 per cent correct!
Calculated load test to diagnose is great information for DIY maf sensors
So go ahead and spend $870 for a MAF sensor when that's how much your dealerships want for one? Well alrighty then.
@@subtegral ~Don't buy OE or OEM parts from the dealer. Find out who the OE manufacturer is for the particular part, and buy that OEM brand part from a trusted auto parts retailer. Same part, same manufacturer for less money. It just won't have "Toyota" embossed on the part. In fact on some OEM parts you can see where the automakers brand was ground off. (For anybody who doesn't know, OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer.)
I cleaned mine & the throttle body, a few weeks ago. My 2012 Camry is running so smooth now 😃. I used CRC cleaners for both.
fixmyrideai AI fixes this. Toyota MAF Sensor Cleaning Guide
One think that should be mention for calculated load. At sea level, calculated load can be close to or even 100%. But at higher altitude, will start to drop. So seeing 78% calculated load at a 7000 ft above sea level can be normal.
How dare you argue with tccn. He tries to keep things simple for the masses and there you go trying to convolute everything.
You are coming exactly with the video for what I believe need for my 2015 jetta. Start having a misfire, I blame the ignition coil. But I think this could be the problem becoze epc light come one. Thanks for making videos
Ahmed, I clean mine every other couple of oil changes, not only on the ISF, but the Subaru two with the appropriate cleaner from CRC…. At the same time while I’m in there, I clean throttle bodies. I do notice a difference, I do clean it lightly and let it dry, but now after watching this video, I think I will stop and try your method. Thank you.
I drive a 20 year old Avalon. There is no set time for cleaning or replacement the Mass air filter. May be lifetime. However some sites would say replace every 80,000 - 150,000 miles.
I did not know about scans, and I don't have a second person to go on a road test.
It is easy to take it out and clean it. It is potentially very easy to damage. I cleaned it a few times and finally replaced it. I probably will not replace it again during the lifetime of the car.
Yes, you have to keep track of things. I have free lifetime alignment. I replaced the 4 strut assemblies on Tuesday. I went to the national car service store and had the alignment done for free. And, received a recommendation to replace the air filter and to clean the throttle body . Of course, I last inspected the air filter about two months ago and have an OEM unit in inventory which does not cost the $40 that the service store would charge. The throttle body was last cleaned 8000 miles ago!
What we need is direction on cleaning the catalytic converter. Mine is bolted on and not welded. Even a weld can be cut and redone. My understanding is one can clean it is a solution of dish washing liquid soap with a lot of water, dry and re-install. What do you do?
My 1990 BMW with a mechanical air flow meter still runs like a champ. (Sorry, I have to confess that I am a BMW owner that listens religiously to the CCN channel).
And I drive a Chevrolet 😊
Old BMW's are lovely cars.
(I have a Ford truck and a Honda civic)
Oh if BMWs were half the cars they were 30 plus years ago….
The one with the moveable vane was known as a Vane Air Meter and often had a Intake Air Sensor, and in some a fuel pump switch as well.
The rest you speak of is true.
Awesome tip! I own a 2006 Toyota Highland Hybrid and two Hondas. I'm going to do the CALC test on all my cars to get a good working baseline reading in order to compare with future CALC readings as the years go by.
CRC Makes MAF cleaner and it works great
Yep 👍
Yes, I’m surprised he didn’t mention MAF cleaner specifically to be used.
He mentioned electrical cleaner (and god forbid brake clean) but I wouldn’t personally feel comfortable using basic electrical cleaner. I’ll assume CRC has both for a reason.
Use the right product, it’s pretty delicate.
Another great video! Many thanks for all the useful information you share on your channel. Admire your dedication, God bless! BTW... Jose does a great job editing as well! Thank you!
if it goes bad always use the same brand as the OEM supplier. I picked one up from the parts store one time and the car ran ok. later on after doing some mods and ECU flash I picked up a used OEM Hitachi brand one at a salvage yard and it made a huge difference. right away the idle was way more stable and the engine was definitely more responsive and felt more powerful.
Got a yellow engine light that has come on a couple of times on the 24-year-old Corolla I have. Cleaning the maf sensor works great. Last time it was P0141 code. I did cleaning and reset. After all, this is the only engine problem I've had with the toyota, so I'll survive 😁
Very good info ilike to add i replaced one with permanent maf code code did not go away it took some driving before it cleared itself
Thank you AMD for the good advice on mass air flow sensor. 👍👍👍
Okay. Using Torque Lite and my trusty OBDII scanner, my MAF sensor readings are as follows:
✅ Morning start ambient temp: 59°F outside, 59°F air intake temperature.
✅ The Mass Air Flow rate grams per second is within factory service manual specs both at idle and held at 2500 rpm.
✅ Engine Load percentage reaches 83% at full throttle in 3rd gear with my 5-speed manual transmission.
Honestly would have cleaned it “just because”.
Thank you for making this!
Nothing wrong cleaning it if you know what you are doing, "just cuz"
Thanks for putting this out. I have a 2007 Camry with 181,000 miles (That didn't get the engine piston ring rebuild unfortunately) that started having problems with the motor a couple of months ago. When I was driving home from work, the Camry started losing power to the engine after I floored the gas a couple of times for a brief few seconds. Suddenly the car had trouble delivering power above 1500-2000 RPM. I could barely reach 45 MPH and had a difficult time getting the car up small hilly roads. the engine also started making a knocking sound.
My friend brought his computer to diagnose it, but the only code we were getting was P0420: catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1). He recommend that I replace the O2 sensor. I went to Autozone to buy one, and after telling the workers at the store what happened, he said I should also clean the mass airflow sensor. I bought a can of CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner and cleaned it myself. But now that you mention in the video how delicate it that sensor is, I wonder if I cleaned it properly. The can comes with a plastic red straw, and I sprayed directly at the sensor.
The Camry started running fine again after replacing the O2 sensor and cleaning the mass airflow sensor, but the engine problem came back up again 1 and a half months later, but not as severe. This time the engine power would drop and sputter if I pressed the gas to get the engine to run above 2000 to 2500 RPM. I replaced the spark plug plugs with a Denso Iridium set and reset the computer a second time. But I'm leaning towards replacing the mass airflow sensor after watching this informative video. Thanks!
Get the cheap scan tool and check it like he said. 30-50 USD hooks via Bluetooth to your phone.
Lot to learn there.
I'd do a compression test on the engine before throwing more parts at it.
Oil burner Camry. Your exhaust is clogged at the converter. Hook up pressure gauges and you'll see a few psi drop across the converter during idle. A new converter will clog again due to oil burning engine. Replace the converter with a straight pipe if your state does not do emission test or tear down the engine to replace the oil control piston rings.
"But officer, I was just checking my calculated load." I don't think that'll hold up in court. Use a scanner with data logging. My car reaches 7k RPM real quick and measuring at a higher gear to get more time will land a person under the jail if you do it on the street. Good info about cleaning them too much. That probably explains why mine got worse over a short time. We'd clean it before each race. I thought it might have been from vibration being it was hard mounted to the chassis. Also, good info about using high pressure air. We destroyed the filaments by doing that. I thought we did but we didn't kind of thing with the air regulator.
My maf sensor got dirty because my mechanic forgot to latch my air filter housing all the way when I was checking to see if I needed a new one. I ended up having to clean it myself as well as the throttle body and now it runs really good.
In 2011 i did my MAF just for the sake of it & no issues for many,many years (10 yrs in fact,2002 Yaris) i did it so everything is tip top & there's nothing to worry about in years to come, why wait for the CEL (Check Engine Light) to come on then you gotta resolve it but in the meantime the engine may be putting in more fuel which nobody wants.
Hey AMD, love your videos, best car channel I've come across on youtube for real, sending love from the middle east. Would really love if you did a video about high fuel consumption issues in Toyota & Lexus and how to properly diagnose them and fix them, Thanks!!!
GJ!
Pls consider reviewing the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV and the Nissan Sentra or the Kicks
Plus a car with a Chinese platform like Volvo or Lotus
Also a Porche and a Ferrari if possible 🤍
Appreciated!
I wish I could replace the MAF sensor on my 87 Supra with a hot wire one. It runs fine but I just wonder and plus I think it would flow better with out the door. You said exactly what I thought they were, a door on a POT. And POTS always need cleaned after years of use.
I had a sequoia that was having issues so I got it pretty cheap. When I checked the MAF it was visibly dirty. I cleaned it, changed the air filter and it ran perfectly.
Hello what issues were you having? I have am 05 sequoia and shakes intermittently toyota cannot figure out the issue
Hmmmm...I have a '98 4R (5VZ-FE) and have a ScanGaugeIII on the dash.....I can't find 'Calculated Load'...but I do have an 'Engine Load' readout...is this possibly the same (or not)?
Love this channel....learn a LOT every time I watch.
I love those 400s behind you...mine is looking a bit shabby in comparison. Cheers from Australia!
Great video! I of course immediately when out and tested mine. I get back 38-45% at idle and 90-98% full throttle… why so high at idle? ‘13 LX570
Volumetric efficiency testing is good for testing MAF sensors too. Record the following PIDs during a wide-open throttle run: IAT in Celsius, MAF in g/s, RPM, and BARO in Pascals. Take the numbers from the frame with the highest MAF value and plug them into the following equation: V.E. = (IAT + 273.15)*34,440*MAF/RPM/BARO/(engine displacement in liters). The pass value for V.E. depends on your engine type. If your engine fails the V.E. test and fuel trims are bad, then it means you have an input problem (MAF sensor problem). If your engine passes the V.E. test and fuel trims are bad, then it means you have a fuel delivery problem. If your engine fails the V.E. test and fuel trims are good, then it means you have a clogged exhaust. (The above equation for volumetric efficiency was purposely rearranged to make it easier to enter into a calculator. An alternative is to enter the numbers into an online volumetric efficiency calculator.)
Whats baro? Barometer im guessing. Just ambient? My scanner in pretty sure doesn't show internal barometer
@@crunchygremlin BARO is barometric pressure. What year is the car?
other ways to try it: read STFT and LTFT. To check the temp sensor just compare the IAT with the ECT when cold. Usually 10 degrees dif is the limit
Grab a coffee or beer. Open your eyes and ears. Lesson in progress.
We see so many more issues with MAF sensors in the shop once people have discarded the factory air box for a Custom Hot Air Intake system. People need to know that if they insist on making their air intake noisier that they should keep the filter oil to a minimum. :)
Fords have "Baro" They compute the barometric pressure. It is very altitude sensitive. Not sure if the newer ones do though,
It's great to have your channel so informative and on the side of the little man. Thank you for this great info AMD.
I love this style of video!
7:30 I don't know Ahmed, my Toyota factory service manual lists the specs for grams per second mass air flow rate.
According to my The Factory Service manual for my 2007 Camry--- HINT: When any of these DTCs are set, check the air-flow rate by entering the following menus on the intelligent
tester: DIAGNOSIS / ENHANCED OBD II / DATA LIST / PRIMARY / MAF. if the airflow rate reads 0.0 grams per second (gm/s); there is an open in Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter power source circuit or an open or short in VG circuit. If the airflow reads 271.0 or more gm/s, there is an open in the EVG circuit.
The error codes related to MAF are P0100, P0102 and P0103 on my 2007 Camry. I don't know if Toyota uses different codes for each of their car models.
I left LesSchwab tires one time after waiting all day for them to change some suspension parts on my ‘04 Camry with 250K and as I drove away it had started fine and idled fine but as I gassed it, it would surge and buck until I got up to speed. At speed it ran perfectly. I pulled over and checked under the hood and found my intake had been loosened and had a gap just after the MAS. That allowed the intake air to bypass the MAS and it was throwing off the computer, engine speed and air speed were out of sync. I got the vehicle home and cleaned the sensor with MAS cleaner since it was apart put it back together and it has run perfectly since. To this day I have no idea why they were messing around with the air intake when they were working on the front control arms. One thing you left off for things that destroy a MAS is over oiling wet type (K&N) air filter. The excess oil gets on the hot wire and causes it to burn out prematurely.
I had an after market MAF installed and I noticed my MPG's dropped by almost 5 mpg per tankful. At the same time, I notice an uptick in speed and accelaration. Also read that you should only replace with OEM only.
Absolutely nailed it well. Greatings from Australia.
Back in the 90’s I used to rebuild the old swing door air flow sensors to pass emissions. 😉
There is another MAF type fitted to the early 1990s LS400s, the Karman Vortex type which apparently requires no servicing. My 1994 Toyota Celsior was 30 years old and 102K miles when I sold it and never had a MAF issue during my ownership.
This is good stuff. Thank you AMD. I wanna go check mine right now. I feel like I've lost power. Maybe this is it?
On my petrol BMW after 100,000 km the idle speed started to fluctuate slightly (this was visible from the tachometer needle and a slight change in engine vibration). After replacing the MAP the speed became stable again.
Ahmet, thanks for the video.
Why do people keep abbreviating it as MAP when it's MAF..
@@subtegral I don't know. I don't speak English and I just looked at how other people write. In German it is written LMM and in Russian ДМРВ.
I have enough trouble treating my wife with love and respect. Now I have to treat my mass air flow sensor with love and respect? I'm going to be stressed out. I'm also not sure which of the two is more delicate.
I just ordered a new one for the hell of it on an 18 year old car. Happy birthday car.
That what life is all about these days, lets all be warm & fuzzy until we go nuts being stressed out from it all!
@@prism8289 new what? wife or mass air sensor?
@@edp128128 mafs
A lot cheaper.
Great video AMD!
You forgot mentioning about using brake cleaner to clean those sensors.
He did mention brake cleaner
Very good and thorough advice. Thank you
This is a good one! Texas
Thank You AMD! Love learning these things!!!
Best Channel on UA-cam!!!
I have the Xtool ip819 bidirectional scanner. Will check the maf sensor for air flow
Thank you this is absolutely great information, of word to the wise.
That's good info and I'm going to test it tomorrow
Thanks!
There are three ways to test a MAF sensor. This video covered only one way.
@@subtegralI know how to test if it's dead but checking it's efficiency I did not know.
Excellent topic, great explanation,thank you!
Not really. He made it more complicated than necessary, while glossing over other relevant information.
Your videos never disappoint
Amazing information thank you so much
I have been cleaning my MAF sensor every 20,000 miles with MAF sensor spray cleaner. Haven't had any problems yet with my 2008 Toyota Tundra, 5.7. I also remove and clean my throttle body about every 50,000 miles. My Tundra currently has 110,00 miles on it. I am very careful when I clean the MAF sensor.
Keeping a clean air filter installed MAF sensor cleaning would be every 200,000 miles instead of every 20,000 miles.
Great lessons. Thanks Mr TCCN
Got it. Replace, don't clean sensor on my newer Toyota.
Huh?
That was one great informative video. Thanks AD.
Would love to see your comments on cleaning/replacing MAF on ‘95 3.4 V6 T100.
These are my favorite videos ❤
Excellent video - God bless you.
Replace/clean MAP sensor filter as well
This was the main cause my 01 Corolla had the leak condition. The calc load was 65% at wot. After replacing it it went to 99% to 100%.
The film/grime build up is primarily from hydrocarbons that vent back out of the intake when the motor is shut off. Later Toyotas use a carbon trap in the airbox to trap them from going into the atmosphere and then next time the motor is fired up is draws them in and burns them. Unfortunately, the MAF is exposed to all of that so it builds up over time. I usually clean MAFs every 10k.
11 Highlander.
Sitting at idle 22-27%
pedal to the medal 92-95%
Is that Highlander a 2gr-fr V6? Just asking because my siennna reads 46% at idle and im experiencing low performance.
*metal
Add to it: let it cold off before any sprey or filiment will crack. Isopropanol is less harmfull than brakecleaner/triclor.
Great Video Ahmad thanks a lot. Is it possible to do a video showing how to properly change Type IV Transmission oil?
AMD, After watching this I can see why people are tempted to clean a MAF sensor rather than test it.
Excellent video, very helpful.
Great video as always,my friend.
Always so helpful. Thank you
How about dipping in 99.9% isopropyl alcohol and letting dry?
I'm surprised you didn't mention the Vortex MAF? I had a problem six months ago with my 1997 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 running a V6. One day went out to start it and it started then stalled. Then no spark. After checking several things, I ended up removing the Vortex MAF sensor and blowing it out with compressed air, then it started and ran fine. Yesterday, same issue. Started, stalled, wouldn't restart, no spark. Did the same procedure as the first time and it is now running fine again. BTW ordered a new MAF sensor same day.