Thank you so much for this video. I used this one and your DPF delete video deleting my 2012 this weekend. I got lucky and after pulling the heat shield my down pipe came right out like nothin. Had one hell of a time getting the bolts outta the turbo but managed not breaking any. Thanks again for what you do on here man.
I fought with my downpipe for way too long, I learned words that soap won't fix. With no luck I spent 10 minutes removing cab bolts on passenger side and jacked up cab, down pipe fell out. Don't cuss, don't bleed, don't waste time. Jack the cab before it jacks you!
Just to clearafly I worked as a mechanic in the oil fields in Canada when I helped do this delete which I understand isn't illegal there. Seen a couple of mud boxing diesels that had the whole delete and programs done but wasn't much left ot the cabs .easy to get to most everything which is good because of the broken crankshaft or piston breaks.
HOLY COW! THIS VIDEO CHANGED MY TRUCKS (LUCILLE) LIFE. THE WHOLE PROJECT TOOK ME 2 1/2 DAYS BUT, IT WAS WORTH IT. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE STEP BY STEP.
How did you get that lower passenger side nut off the passenger side up pipe? Literally only thing holding me back right now. I have sprayed so much kroil the past week.
Thanks for being honest about how much of a pain it is to do this job. I’ve done it and know exactly what your talking about. A lot of the prior videos I’ve seen don’t show the aggravating parts of this.
Absolutely, everyone online talks about the pros and cons of deleting it without even mentioning the hassle of the parts or the price of getting it done at a shop which in-itself is a pain to find one that will do it
just a quick tip for future down and up pipe removing! remove the two cross member nuts for the transmission and loosen the two engine mount bolts then jack up the rear at the transfer case. it will create a few more inches of space between the firewall and the engine and all three will be easier to remove and save you alot of cursing and blood.
Sounds like a great idea.... just wish I understood exactly how to do that. I'm just getting into diesel trucks and costs too much for a mechanic so I'm learning how to work on this thing 😂
Thank you so much for this video. It was an absolute life saver. I must have referred to it 30 or 40 times. You're right. This job sucked. My hands are so bloody and bruised!
Thanks for the great video very informative and changed my mind on doing it myself my patience level will not handle stuff like a broken turbo bolt and removal. You ,however did an excellent job defining the difficulty involved , I subscribed because of the terrific job you did. Thanks again.
Ratchet strap is what got the Lml down pipe, wiggled and ratcheted at the same time and it was easier than I thought. I pulled the heat shield out first.
I pulled mine last night. It was a nightmare! I thought I pulled the 3 bolts on heat shield but missed one. I fought it for 3hrs and finally was able to get it out with the heat shield still on. WHAT A MESS! LOL
@@TonyPreckwrinkle screw that mess. I'm never doing it again. I can't stop working on something until it's done so I was out pulling that POS till 1130pm last night lol.
Guys one of the mistakes is to loosen the 11mm nut on the down pipe clamp before getting both shields off , start with the small heat shield it will come seay from the side then the bigger one u have to pull it from behind too and wiggle it a little bit but it comes out easy 2, after that loosen the 11mm nut for the down pipe turbo clamp and it slides easy down
I've been referencing your video as I'm doing this on my 15 lml. Currently stuck at that metal coolant pipe, just having a fight getting it out. Most of my up pipe bolts are out other than the ones you can't reach. Excellent video and references yeah this job sucks lol
If you got another person hitting the heat shield from the top forcing it down with a pry bar and some pulling down under with vise grips it comes out quick, just thought I’d pass the info for the next guy doing this
@@MrLazlott I went with cp3 10 mil I bought from a guy locally in Miami, he sold his truck so I bought the pump, injectors, 64mil turbo from him for a good price
@@MrLazlott ppl talk down the cp4 pump but with a lift pump behind it you're ok, ive seen cp3 pump fail just as well as the cp4, I think you'll be ok with the cp4 and lift pump, ive seen allot of cp4 pump still running @ over 600k miles trust me
Thank you sir for this helpful video.That metal coolant tube is holding me up.Wasnt sure how to go forward with it in the way of that one up pipe bolt to turbo.2 bolts are all that's left of 9.Ill be so glad to finish this install.Ready to work on something else.I drive 18 whlr x country and limited time at home.Ive been on new up pipes install for 5 months now,and still in removal stage.Not started putting new back on.
I feel your pain, also a trucker and not much time to devote to getting my truck done either. Also need to replace my CP4 with a CP3 and all the injectors / rails. Can't wait.
I j helped my mechanic with an EGR delete on my 2015 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali DRW. I did not have my tuner yet. After completion, my air conditioning suddenly doesn’t blow cold ( 2 month old compressor is not engaging.) Mechanic said I needed my tuner install and it should work . I ordered the tuner and gave the info for mods I was planning to go ( I have all parts ) EGR complete Dpf delete Sensors disconnected Cold air intake installed Fass lift pump Not installed yet 5 in flow pro straight pipe not installed i Down pipes Not installed Up pipes Not installed EFI live tuner arrived I installed the switch and flashed Seems to run fine , no engine light But my driver window doesn’t work Back up camera doesn’t work Air conditioning compressor still not engaging Bummed out the screws for continuing any more work until I get this right but I’m not driving the truck. Put a snap on scanner on it and it had no codes.
Never had those issues before personally, but YOU CANT RUN A DELETE TUNE WITHOUT REMOVING FACTORY EXHAUST! The delete tune deactivates all the regen/burn process, so your exhaust is going to plug up and you can seriously damage your engine!
Amazing Video!!!! I did mine and boy… it was not a fun job. But the smiles after it’s all done and my tools are clean and put away… I’m smiling from ear to ear! QUESTION- on the thermostat hose… the hose that you ran from the thermostats over to the fuel filter area…. The clamp that you used to fasten down the hose… do or have you ever had problems with the hose blowing off due to pressure? Is one clamp enough to fasten down the hose ???
WOW…I’ve been in performance industry for over 60 yrs..this job I would not even consider ..is it possible it would be easier to remove the engine? A very impressive job…you are very talented.. Just how much does a day of torture cost
My truck is EGR/DPF deleted but want to make sure it's more reliable so I have purchased the following: cp3 conversion (no - tuning required, no 9th injector) new up pipe 3" down pipe (no bungs) egr delete kit Fass Lift Pump The EGT and O2 sensor for the down pipe can be discarded correct? I know I'm looking at a 15 hour install, just waiting until duck season is over to begin the fun. The truck is off road use only.
That sensor on the middle of the down pipe is the 9th injector, could could delete it if you want. The 9th injector will be turned off when you tune the truck.
AWESOME ! Video! Thank you for helping everyone. Hmm I bought a 2011, with the EGR delete already done. I'm having a difficult time trying to find the coolant hose, from the engine to the cab. Its leaking at the back of the motor. Any thoughts, ideas would so much appreciated, Thank You !!!
@darkirondiesel thanks for the video. Did you ever figure out which of the two sensors on the top of the downpipe are actually required? Also, is the third "sensor" down on the lower end of the downpipe not just the 9th injector? I've read that you can just plug that. Thanks again for the instructional video.
Broo u make it look so easy!!!! I wanna try doing it,,, ime mechanicly inclined but i know myselfe and i know wrenches will start flying… whats the going rate in a job like this if i pay for parts??? I might just have somebody do it for me.. i can do dpf delete,, exhuast install and lift pump.. ime scared of doing this though
Whenever I tune a truck I always tune it first before I touch anything on the truck, then after make sure the truck still starts. Then unplug the sensors and try to start the truck again, make sure it’s running with no engine lights or codes to confirm the tune worked, then shut off and remove the dpf/egr. But like I said, it doesn’t actually matter which order you do, that’s just what I do
Did u get a chance to try and jacking up the cab? I’m struggling with my down pipe and can’t find a way to get at the 3rd bolt on the heat shield. And feel like I’m gonna break something when I try and ratchet strap it down. Any tips??
I installed the kit from the diesel dudes ( down pipe , y pipe, coolant hoses & blocker plate ) Mu temp gauge hangs at 210 them jumps to like 211/12 then drops to 208/09 , is that just the thermostat cycling due to more flow ? Replaced the thermostats , temp gauge , coolant flush & still the same
ever figure out which sensor has to go back into the new downpipe? you said mayb discard the one and flipped it back, and then mayb the other side one goes back in,,,ever figure out which ones which ?
I’ve got a question about the small coolant line that you didn’t mention what you do with. It comes off the cooler and Ts into another line that you didn’t cut toward the passenger side. Any help would be appreciated
so this will probably sound a little sideways but i used to wrench for a living... this job would seem a lot easier if you pulled the radiator and exhaust pipes and the trans and motor mounts and slid the motor/ trans forward... what say you??
On the intake side block plate you used the factory gaskets mine has orings do I need to use the factory gaskets as well or is it a good idea to I'm not sure if yours had orings
@@darkirondiesel Yeah I hear ya. Im waiting until the prices go down myself. Mainly the tuning part of it. I was just hoping to have some type of reference for when it comes time. Not much information on l5p just yet.
I have a 2015 lml, had def problems, it’s now deleted with efi live, but now it keeps giving P249d code and it won’t clear. Confirmed with tuner all settings are correct in program. Any ideas? Is there another way to clear?
I am doing a EZ Lynk, EGR Delete with up pipe, down pipe, and 5” exhaust. Do I need to delete DPF, DEF, and tune before my EGR removal? Or can I do it all afterwards?
Will a bad Def modulator cause the truck to throw a EGR bypass valve stuck at ten degrees open code and send a check emissions now alert to the dashboard with a speed limiter warning attached to it?
I’m doing the def and egr delete on a 2011 duramax. It is already limited to 55mph because of def problems. I did the def tank and exhaust removal and also did the tuning with a Mini maxx tuner. Do you think it will still be stuck in limp mode after I’m done.
Nope as long as the minimax had the “emissions removed” setting and you selected it you will be fine. You can just get rid of the exhaust and unplug the egr, you don’t have to physically remove egr if you don’t want to.
Same exact thing happened to my 15 lml. It’s throwing codes for a bad egr valve. I ordered a flo pro exhaust and a tune so hopefully it clears the code and let’s me go fast again.
Every bolt has a torque spec based on bolt size and thread pitch, but personally I don’t use a torque wrench on this job. Just get everything snuggled up nice and you should be ok. If you are worried you could look up the torque specs.
Thats how mine is done. Tuned and unplugged with blocker plate. After watching this, i don't see the need to get in there and go to torture fest because the LML runs fine like this. Other than lose a little weight but thats a non factor on a 9000lb truck
@@nickolasgiampietro3164 Since that time i've had the items mentioned removed. So i got to experience it running with all the EGR parts, blocked and totally deleted. Honestly, i don't feel much variation but then again with a straight 4" exhaust the whole time there was never much resistance to spool up so i might defer this question.
Question please. If I delete the egr my self and I have a hand held tuner like a mini maxx can I tune it myself or do I have to have a shop dyno tune it?
The tuner already has the dpf, def, and egr systems programmed out of your ecm. You should unplug the sensors so it won’t throw your truck off and can cause it to run weird. If you start adding more performance parts you can go back to retune and get the most out of your parts (I believe). As of deleting the egr physically you shouldn’t need a retune.
How do you know if your truck been deleted. I just got a 2015 3500hd denali duramax diesel. My first diesel. Looking under the hood I found 2 sensors unhooked 1 on the passenger side near the firewall 1 driver side middle of motor they said there 3 sensors but only saw 2
Look at the exhaust, if there’s a couple big filters and sensors plugged in then it’s probably not deleted. If it just looks like a normal exhaust with no big filters or sensors it’s deleted.
FULL DELETE KIT HERE shrsl.com/4ke0v
SHOP MERCH HERE darkirondiesel.com
How in the heck do
You remove the passenger side egr? I’m about ready to torch my LML
ua-cam.com/users/shorts3OrxwwPM4NU?si=RXn2l743-CgNQeIe
Let's delete the EPA
Thank you so much for this video. I used this one and your DPF delete video deleting my 2012 this weekend. I got lucky and after pulling the heat shield my down pipe came right out like nothin. Had one hell of a time getting the bolts outta the turbo but managed not breaking any. Thanks again for what you do on here man.
I fought with my downpipe for way too long, I learned words that soap won't fix. With no luck I spent 10 minutes removing cab bolts on passenger side and jacked up cab, down pipe fell out. Don't cuss, don't bleed, don't waste time. Jack the cab before it jacks you!
Yes I will try this next time!
@@darkirondiesel Also, Topside Creeper :)
This saved me from cussing and learning new words
I cut mine out lol
Didn't do mine. Staying stock but have done a few. Having host I lift the cab. Actually saves time and easier getting to everything
Just to clearafly I worked as a mechanic in the oil fields in Canada when I helped do this delete which I understand isn't illegal there. Seen a couple of mud boxing diesels that had the whole delete and programs done but wasn't much left ot the cabs .easy to get to most everything which is good because of the broken crankshaft or piston breaks.
HOLY COW! THIS VIDEO CHANGED MY TRUCKS (LUCILLE) LIFE. THE WHOLE PROJECT TOOK ME 2 1/2 DAYS BUT, IT WAS WORTH IT. THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE STEP BY STEP.
How did you get that lower passenger side nut off the passenger side up pipe? Literally only thing holding me back right now. I have sprayed so much kroil the past week.
Thanks for being honest about how much of a pain it is to do this job. I’ve done it and know exactly what your talking about. A lot of the prior videos I’ve seen don’t show the aggravating parts of this.
Absolutely, everyone online talks about the pros and cons of deleting it without even mentioning the hassle of the parts or the price of getting it done at a shop which in-itself is a pain to find one that will do it
One of the best vids on all this work, editing/sound/vid is top notch! Enough details for the average guy who wants to do this.
just a quick tip for future down and up pipe removing! remove the two cross member nuts for the transmission and loosen the two engine mount bolts then jack up the rear at the transfer case. it will create a few more inches of space between the firewall and the engine and all three will be easier to remove and save you alot of cursing and blood.
Thank you sir
Sounds like a great idea.... just wish I understood exactly how to do that. I'm just getting into diesel trucks and costs too much for a mechanic so I'm learning how to work on this thing 😂
This video was very helpful and saved me a ton of time by you saying what size socket for those hard to reach bolts. Thanks! 👍
Thank you so much for this video. It was an absolute life saver. I must have referred to it 30 or 40 times. You're right. This job sucked. My hands are so bloody and bruised!
Thanks for the great video very informative and changed my mind on doing it myself my patience level will not handle stuff like a broken turbo bolt and removal. You ,however did an excellent job defining the difficulty involved , I subscribed because of the terrific job you did.
Thanks again.
Thanks man. I don’t even do these anymore, that’s how much I hate them haha
Lol same
Ratchet strap is what got the Lml down pipe, wiggled and ratcheted at the same time and it was easier than I thought. I pulled the heat shield out first.
I pulled my down pipe once on my LML, ill never do it again. Great Video.
Hahah they are awful
I pulled mine last night. It was a nightmare! I thought I pulled the 3 bolts on heat shield but missed one. I fought it for 3hrs and finally was able to get it out with the heat shield still on. WHAT A MESS! LOL
@@TheJoe111599 wait till you have to do a starter. Only way I found was the remove the downpipe again. I paid the dealer this time.
@@TonyPreckwrinkle screw that mess. I'm never doing it again. I can't stop working on something until it's done so I was out pulling that POS till 1130pm last night lol.
If you haven’t already, do a video on the EFI Live tuning. Really helps. Thanks.
Where did you get your delete tuning?
Guys one of the mistakes is to loosen the 11mm nut on the down pipe clamp before getting both shields off , start with the small heat shield it will come seay from the side then the bigger one u have to pull it from behind too and wiggle it a little bit but it comes out easy 2, after that loosen the 11mm nut for the down pipe turbo clamp and it slides easy down
I've been referencing your video as I'm doing this on my 15 lml. Currently stuck at that metal coolant pipe, just having a fight getting it out. Most of my up pipe bolts are out other than the ones you can't reach. Excellent video and references yeah this job sucks lol
If you got another person hitting the heat shield from the top forcing it down with a pry bar and some pulling down under with vise grips it comes out quick, just thought I’d pass the info for the next guy doing this
Thanks for the video, this is a tough job even with a video, I could not have done it without you thanks !!!!!!
great video. I believe the sensor in down pipe is the 9th injector for regen.
Yes correct
I enjoy watching your stuff. Always nice seeing Canadian content 🇨🇦
That look like a mission😳 I'm replacing my cp4 as we speak and I m thinking about deleting since I'm already in there, what a pita
I’m also in the same boat as we speak and I wanna pull my hair out 😂
What are you replacing your CP4 with and where did you get it from, if you don't mind me asking?
@@MrLazlott I went with cp3 10 mil I bought from a guy locally in Miami, he sold his truck so I bought the pump, injectors, 64mil turbo from him for a good price
@@johnsondml I've been torn on the CP3 or CP4K. I have a lift pump, but I know the 4 is a time bomb waiting.
@@MrLazlott ppl talk down the cp4 pump but with a lift pump behind it you're ok, ive seen cp3 pump fail just as well as the cp4, I think you'll be ok with the cp4 and lift pump, ive seen allot of cp4 pump still running @ over 600k miles trust me
Man thank you so much. I know how much patience that must have took. Good job man!
Thank you sir for this helpful video.That metal coolant tube is holding me up.Wasnt sure how to go forward with it in the way of that one up pipe bolt to turbo.2 bolts are all that's left of 9.Ill be so glad to finish this install.Ready to work on something else.I drive 18 whlr x country and limited time at home.Ive been on new up pipes install for 5 months now,and still in removal stage.Not started putting new back on.
I feel your pain, also a trucker and not much time to devote to getting my truck done either. Also need to replace my CP4 with a CP3 and all the injectors / rails. Can't wait.
It’s wild how much more complicated this is compared to an l5p
Don’t you hate when that happens 😅. Whoever owns that truck has clean tastes, great looking truck.
Ya it’s the worst! Had to work all day Saturday to get it finished for the customer but oh well, what can ya do.
I j helped my mechanic with an EGR delete on my 2015 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali DRW. I did not have my tuner yet.
After completion, my air conditioning suddenly doesn’t blow cold ( 2 month old compressor is not engaging.)
Mechanic said I needed my tuner install and it should work .
I ordered the tuner and gave the info for mods I was planning to go ( I have all parts )
EGR complete
Dpf delete Sensors disconnected
Cold air intake installed
Fass lift pump Not installed yet
5 in flow pro straight pipe not installed i
Down pipes Not installed
Up pipes Not installed
EFI live tuner arrived I installed the switch and flashed
Seems to run fine , no engine light
But my driver window doesn’t work
Back up camera doesn’t work
Air conditioning compressor still not engaging
Bummed out the screws for continuing any more work until I get this right but I’m not driving the truck. Put a snap on scanner on it and it had no codes.
Never had those issues before personally, but YOU CANT RUN A DELETE TUNE WITHOUT REMOVING FACTORY EXHAUST! The delete tune deactivates all the regen/burn process, so your exhaust is going to plug up and you can seriously damage your engine!
What kind of MPG difference do you get on your LML now
i'm lucky here in Alberta we are still allowed to do full EGR delete
So jealous! It's a nightmare here in Ontario now!
Awesome video bro
Thank you. It wasn’t fun to make haha
Amazing Video!!!! I did mine and boy… it was not a fun job. But the smiles after it’s all done and my tools are clean and put away… I’m smiling from ear to ear!
QUESTION- on the thermostat hose… the hose that you ran from the thermostats over to the fuel filter area…. The clamp that you used to fasten down the hose… do or have you ever had problems with the hose blowing off due to pressure? Is one clamp enough to fasten down the hose ???
Thank you for this video, the uppipe @13:28 is cracked and leaking for 2nd time. Its gotta go
awesome job
WOW…I’ve been in performance industry for over 60 yrs..this job I would not even consider ..is it possible it would be easier to remove the engine?
A very impressive job…you are very talented..
Just how much does a day of torture cost
No way, pulling the engine would be 100 times longer.
Lift the cab
Detailed information and video nicely done
Thanks buddy
@@darkirondiesel no worries man
Where are yall located?
Is it hurting the truck life at all or is there any negatives to unplugging and blocking off the EGR without removing it fully?
Makes the Cummins delete look not too bad
You got that right
Yes sir Cummins deletes are way easy
Haha 6.7 Cummins/Powerstrokes are easy to delete compared to these Lmls
Thank you very much
You motivated me to AGR MY 2011 Chevy
Duramax
My truck is EGR/DPF deleted but want to make sure it's more reliable so I have purchased the following:
cp3 conversion (no - tuning required, no 9th injector)
new up pipe
3" down pipe (no bungs)
egr delete kit
Fass Lift Pump
The EGT and O2 sensor for the down pipe can be discarded correct?
I know I'm looking at a 15 hour install, just waiting until duck season is over to begin the fun. The truck is off road use only.
Good video. Thank you!!
That sensor on the middle of the down pipe is the 9th injector, could could delete it if you want. The 9th injector will be turned off when you tune the truck.
AWESOME ! Video! Thank you for helping everyone. Hmm I bought a 2011, with the EGR delete already done. I'm having a difficult time trying to find the coolant hose, from the engine to the cab. Its leaking at the back of the motor. Any thoughts, ideas would so much appreciated, Thank You !!!
Great info: What about DELETE you mention before starting ,what do you mean by programing
Is there any additional tuning that need done once it’s removed?
Thanks for your time!
@darkirondiesel thanks for the video. Did you ever figure out which of the two sensors on the top of the downpipe are actually required? Also, is the third "sensor" down on the lower end of the downpipe not just the 9th injector? I've read that you can just plug that. Thanks again for the instructional video.
for delete a egr dpf def first you need remove all sensor or after remove all sensor
What do you have to do with the transmission or will it hold up??
Are the coolant lines ran the same on all LMLs? I have a 2011 3500.
I believe I missed a sensor, my check engine light is still on. A list of sensors that need to be unplugged would be very helpful.
Pull cab bolts and jack up in the resr of cab only like 6 inch . And losen fronts welcome
I bought a new up pipe so i used sawszall and pulled old one out in 2 pieces
Can you please make a video on the l5p. Please. Thanks
Broo u make it look so easy!!!! I wanna try doing it,,, ime mechanicly inclined but i know myselfe and i know wrenches will start flying… whats the going rate in a job like this if i pay for parts??? I might just have somebody do it for me.. i can do dpf delete,, exhuast install and lift pump.. ime scared of doing this though
for delete a egr dpf def first you need remove all sensor and put the tune or after remove all sensor put the tune
It doesn’t matter
@@darkirondiesel u sure I’m scared bro
@@darkirondiesel so don’t matter before or after remove all sensor for install the H&S
Whenever I tune a truck I always tune it first before I touch anything on the truck, then after make sure the truck still starts. Then unplug the sensors and try to start the truck again, make sure it’s running with no engine lights or codes to confirm the tune worked, then shut off and remove the dpf/egr. But like I said, it doesn’t actually matter which order you do, that’s just what I do
What kit do you recommend getting for this complete delete?
I inquired about the egr delete at the dealer and they lift the cab up to do it
Random dumb question I'm having issues with the def side of my emissions can I just delete my dpf and leave the egr but unplug them?
Where did you buy all the parts to do this job?
Do you have a link to all the parts you used
Did u get a chance to try and jacking up the cab? I’m struggling with my down pipe and can’t find a way to get at the 3rd bolt on the heat shield. And feel like I’m gonna break something when I try and ratchet strap it down. Any tips??
All that work I would definitely upgrade the turbo and cp4 if I was that deep into the truck
Yes because everyone can afford a new turbo
That CP4 is expensive to swap for CP3,but cheaper than entire fuel system if you wait until the CP4 dies.
Install XRG Exergy system save valve to protect fuel system in case cp4 craps out
I installed the kit from the diesel dudes ( down pipe , y pipe, coolant hoses & blocker plate )
Mu temp gauge hangs at 210 them jumps to like 211/12 then drops to 208/09 , is that just the thermostat cycling due to more flow ?
Replaced the thermostats , temp gauge , coolant flush & still the same
Ya I wouldn’t worry about that minor fluctuation
I have a different egr coolant hose that has 2 hoses connected that looks like a V shape will that work with 2016 lml?
Do you leave the throttle valve unplugged?
ever figure out which sensor has to go back into the new downpipe? you said mayb discard the one and flipped it back, and then mayb the other side one goes back in,,,ever figure out which ones which ?
Can you do video for the l5p
I’ve got a question about the small coolant line that you didn’t mention what you do with. It comes off the cooler and Ts into another line that you didn’t cut toward the passenger side. Any help would be appreciated
Thank god i have a ram
I love the interior in a Ram
I was told the down pipe is optional and does not need to be replaced, can you give any more detail on why or why not replace it?
so this will probably sound a little sideways but i used to wrench for a living... this job would seem a lot easier if you pulled the radiator and exhaust pipes and the trans and motor mounts and slid
the motor/ trans forward... what say you??
On the intake side block plate you used the factory gaskets mine has orings do I need to use the factory gaskets as well or is it a good idea to I'm not sure if yours had orings
No just use the o rings
What all sensors do I unplug to bypass egr until I delete the egr
If the truck is already in limp mode and decide to do delete will this get rid of limp mode? Or does efl live or any programer erase the limp mode
Really good video helps i lot!!!
What year is your truck I need remove egr my 2022 it's same?
why does the down pipe need to be replaced? I was told it isn't necessary, can you clarify?
Dude your vids are awesome thank you!
Have u used the GPD egr delete kit with the up pipe?
2015 high county duramax
Can you do a step by step video for L5P?
I will whenever I do one, but they are super expensive to delete. Like $6000. So no one wants to pull the trigger yet.
@@darkirondiesel Yeah I hear ya. Im waiting until the prices go down myself. Mainly the tuning part of it. I was just hoping to have some type of reference for when it comes time. Not much information on l5p just yet.
How did you move the exhaust to get the Downpipe
What is the red plate you installed
That’s the plate that blocks off where the egr valve was.
Thanks bro!!!
Would it be better to just use a coolant bypass instead of that hose with the kit?
I ordered a delete kit but I choose the option without the up pipe,does that me I don’t have to pull it out?
I have a 2015 lml, had def problems, it’s now deleted with efi live, but now it keeps giving P249d code and it won’t clear. Confirmed with tuner all settings are correct in program. Any ideas? Is there another way to clear?
What headlights is your guy runnin?
I am doing a EZ Lynk, EGR Delete with up pipe, down pipe, and 5” exhaust. Do I need to delete DPF, DEF, and tune before my EGR removal? Or can I do it all afterwards?
I saw his video on the dpf delete and he said to tune it before you unplug and take stuff out.
@@Mattss90 so tune, take dpf out, and then egr?
@@kolyncantrell6762 I’m not 100 on that. I just know he said to tune prior to taking cat and dpf out.
What tune you going to run??
What type of turbo was in that truck and what was the fleece part in the beginning and how is it helpful
Just the stock turbo that comes with the truck. That fleece thing is a turbo resonator delete. Gives you a bit more turbo whistle
Dark Iron Diesel thanks man
I got the ez lynk tuner. My dpf is backed up and blowing air. I have no power to the truck right now. What should be my first step?
Tune truck, remove exhaust, unplug egr.
Will a bad Def modulator cause the truck to throw a EGR bypass valve stuck at ten degrees open code and send a check emissions now alert to the dashboard with a speed limiter warning attached to it?
Sounds like you have 2 separate issues to me. That egr valve stuck open will be its own issue. I’d definitely get that fixed ASAP
do you know any where else reputable that sells egr delete kits deviant diesel no longer sells them
Thanks
I’m doing the def and egr delete on a 2011 duramax. It is already limited to 55mph because of def problems. I did the def tank and exhaust removal and also did the tuning with a Mini maxx tuner. Do you think it will still be stuck in limp mode after I’m done.
Nope as long as the minimax had the “emissions removed” setting and you selected it you will be fine. You can just get rid of the exhaust and unplug the egr, you don’t have to physically remove egr if you don’t want to.
Dark Iron Diesel thank you so much 👍
Same exact thing happened to my 15 lml. It’s throwing codes for a bad egr valve. I ordered a flo pro exhaust and a tune so hopefully it clears the code and let’s me go fast again.
What’s wrong with just unplugging both egr plugs and just leaving all that alone?
Do I need to torque anything or just get it right?
Every bolt has a torque spec based on bolt size and thread pitch, but personally I don’t use a torque wrench on this job. Just get everything snuggled up nice and you should be ok. If you are worried you could look up the torque specs.
So what do you gain by doing this modification?
is it absolutely necessary to remove the egr? or can you just unplug the sensors and just by pass it with the tune
Thats how mine is done. Tuned and unplugged with blocker plate. After watching this, i don't see the need to get in there and go to torture fest because the LML runs fine like this. Other than lose a little weight but thats a non factor on a 9000lb truck
@@MrMotor11But could you agree that this could affect turbo spool time?
@@nickolasgiampietro3164 Since that time i've had the items mentioned removed. So i got to experience it running with all the EGR parts, blocked and totally deleted. Honestly, i don't feel much variation but then again with a straight 4" exhaust the whole time there was never much resistance to spool up so i might defer this question.
Question please. If I delete the egr my self and I have a hand held tuner like a mini maxx can I tune it myself or do I have to have a shop dyno tune it?
The tuner already has the dpf, def, and egr systems programmed out of your ecm. You should unplug the sensors so it won’t throw your truck off and can cause it to run weird. If you start adding more performance parts you can go back to retune and get the most out of your parts (I believe). As of deleting the egr physically you shouldn’t need a retune.
@@jaxonsmith9551 gotcha thank you for the input man
Stop fighting with the down pipe just take off the right side cab bolts so you can jack up the cab a bit and it comes right out. Just saying
I’ve heard of guys doing that... might have to give it a shot next time
Yeah, had to do that when replacing my starter. Take off the motor mount bolts and jack up from the transmission...fell right out.
@@EricEscamillaesca2791 You got it
That's a perfect video to convince you not to buy a GMC/chevrolet ! Very good job though
How do you know if your truck been deleted.
I just got a 2015 3500hd denali duramax diesel. My first diesel.
Looking under the hood I found 2 sensors unhooked 1 on the passenger side near the firewall
1 driver side middle of motor they said there 3 sensors but only saw 2
Look at the exhaust, if there’s a couple big filters and sensors plugged in then it’s probably not deleted. If it just looks like a normal exhaust with no big filters or sensors it’s deleted.