Nice - nothing beats top water blow out 👌 in terms of the foil is my go to for any realistic fish imitation lure 🙂 however lately I started experimenting with all sorts of funky nail art materials and I'm having real fun with them 😊
I cut 100’s of cuts through aluminum engines heads every week to measure wall thicknesses inside the chamber voids. When I have a issue with the blade wanting to swerve to one side or another, it’s usually due to the teeth on the blade being damaged or wore down on one side of the blade.
I bet no bass on the planet has seen this presentation before. Love the out of the box thinking. I will be laid up for rotator cuff surgery. Will be watching all your videos and taking notes. Like Suchajerk, I also use nail art foil. It has a veeeerry thin foil on a plastic backing. You apply glue (thin epoxy) and peel off the plastic. When done correctly, no measurable weight is added to the lure. When I foil, I do the entire bait (except for the bib). You can always cover it with opaque paints. Three colors work for me: silver, silver holographic, and clear (sometimes called white) holographic. If you are interested, I can send some info via email.
Nothing like a fish taking a lure off the surface, I have made a couple of top water lures myself, they work great, I use a little bit of foil on my lures and when I have it just adds a bit of something else to the lure, I like it, great build, nice lure and an even better result getting that surface hit 👌👍
Good evening Sir. You make very nice different lures. Awesome job! I used to use these silver foils for many years in the past. Nowadays there are special holographic foils for fingernails, which are beautiful and easily to apply. I am now also using new paints for airbrushing, that also look very nice. The aluminum foils have a big disadvantage. They are very smooth and the clear coat does not adhere very well and may eventually peel off. I am waiting for your new videos, so keep it up your awesome job. Greetings from Germany Jan Fischer 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🐟🐟🐟🐟🐟🐟🐟
You probably have got the bandsaw problem sorted out by now,but here's a lil tip to use on every new blade. Take a small sharpening stone and while the saw is running hold it at an 90* angle at the back of the blade and lightly let the blade run on it.This will reduce/remove the bump where it was welded.Then hold it at about a 45* with the back of the blade and let it ride on the blade again,sort of move the stone so it rounds over the edge of the blade. This will help it cut better curves,can help with not cutting straight if it has a edge on one side and reduce or stop the clicking sound when it's running...which is the weld bump hitting the bearings or blocks. It doesn't take much pressure with the stone,but do leave it run a good number of revolutions. They make a specific stick with a stone epoxied to it for doing this,but no need to spend $ unnecessarily. If a blade is getting a lil duller on one side than the other it will wonder to that side.Because of the tooth set you can sort of test to see if this is happening.With the saw off you can slide your finger up the side of the blade to see if one side is duller than the other.You'll want to rotate the blade and check the whole thing.If only a short section is duller than the other it'll still give you problems. Make sure your blade is 90* with the table too. When changing blades loosen all bearings or rub/guide blocks,install other blade,tension it,then adjust your bearings,rub/guide blocks.Then recheck the squareness of the blade to table.
@@EngineeredAngler Yeah it sounds like it may been duller on one side than the other. Sometimes the tooth set can be off from one side to the other and it'll also do that.
Interesting lure Franco! Think a lot of lipless baits could be fished that way. So different down there than here (Ontario, Canada), no gators and the water in the lakes I fish is clear enough that the deep weed edge is down 15 to 18 feet. Silver/chrome lures work well for me so I'm looking for the best solution be it spray, aluminum tape, some other foil or reflective mylar. Find the foil tape to be a bit of a pain to work with on round-bodied lures (like a Big-O). While a specular chrome flash is desirable (to catch fishermen?) it may be that plain old Silver paint might reflect enough light to imitate the flash of a baitfish. Maybe some glitter in the clear-coat would do it. I'll have to take some underwater videos to see. Per the bandsaw problem, I agree with the others - the teeth one one side of the blade are likely duller and/or have less set than the other side causing the blade to veer off line. Had this happen when cutting too tight a radius for the width of the blade - hitting that knot didn't help either - knew right away that the blade was not happy. P.S. bet that gator would have given you one heck of a fight LOL!
You will need to perform the next operation. We in Serbia call it (Breaking the saw) Special pliers that adjust the teeth on the saw, move a few millimeters to the left and then repeat the same on the right side. So that the blade could cut straight, it throws out sawdust. There is nothing difficult to do but it is very boring. Good luck Greetings from Serbia!
Check ur blade guide rollers & tension , they might need oil or replacement, check the rubber grip strips on the wheels for uneven wear ,check to see the wheels are in parallel& square hope this helps with bandsaw issues. What reel was that ? Cool banana lure
I didn't think you'd catch a fish on that odd bait but you did. As for your use of foil, I like the metallic look and I haven't yet tried the superior spray on silver products you've demonstrated so I'm relegated to either metal lures or foil, both of which I like and use. I do really well here with spoons and spinners.
You have what's known as blade deflection on your band saw, its pretty common, makes it difficult to cut a straight line. If you have a fence for it, you can correct the deflection with the fence. Take a scrap piece of wood and mark a straight line length wise , like you are ripping it. Start your cut on the line, and you will be able to see to which side the blade is deflecting towards. Its possible then to adjust your fence to match the blade deflection and giving you a straight cut. Next time you want to rip a piece wood, you will probably have to repeat the same process again, as the blade will generally not deflect to the same side always and maybe by a different amount. When you saw curves on the band saw then try to rip a straight cut you will need to reset your fence to match the deflection.
About your band saw, it looks like you have a 1/2” blade? I could not really see well. Have you replaced or checked the rubber tires? Some times they get grooves due to the blade tension, then you get an uncontrollable curve. When you adjust the set of bearings around the cut throat it will tend to want to hit one bearing more than the other. Let me know if there is any of these. Regards, Cameron. PS-there may be a build up of sawdust or even sap under the tires
I use foil on every single lure I make. Lots of big topwaters (search JB Customs Fishing for reference) and I love it. Extra work trying to cover the seams with epoxy, but the realistic flash is unmatched
Great different build that works. If weight properly this could be converted to an ice fishing lure. More foil means more flash which you need in the early morning or evening to catch light and attract fish on the hunt. Check Utube for help on your band sale, but have to agree with Wayne D, Wheel maybe out of alignment. Just like a belt sander. Remember your motor -pump alignment training - when you mic a coupler in.
I just tossed the one I made in my tackle box yesterday. I didn't put any weight in mine the hooks and rings were enough. Your saw blade is dull on one side. You can try and adjust your guides but if it is going off in the one direction change the blade.
Nice bait and I use foil on everyone of my Shad lures. I’ve tried everything that you have except the silver plating. But I have done a few foiled Gill patterns as well and it looked good.
Nothing like a top water bite !! I would like to pick your brain on buoyancy. Let’s say I core drill a wood body and plug it off, sealed completely leaving a sealed void within the body of lure. Is it best to leave that void empty or fill it with a material to create more buoyancy ??
You can only create greater buoyancy by reducing weight. Or you can make the lure larger keeping the weight the same, or less. If you fill the void, it has to be with a material that is lighter (lower density) than the wood. Hope this helps.
As allways great tutorial. Explaind till the last detail. I often use alu foil or another kind od foils and if you want to get more flash in water it is usefull. Have you try transfer holo-foil for nails. Pretty cool
The offset on the blade teeth are worn down on one side possibly due to trying to make too tight of a turn with the wider blade. I just made one of the pike piling style blades but I didn’t catch any fish yet🙃
I bought two blades for mine and they were just off. One rattled really bad and made crazy cuts and one would drift like you’re talking about maybe just try another 1/4 in blade
Nice - nothing beats top water blow out 👌 in terms of the foil is my go to for any realistic fish imitation lure 🙂 however lately I started experimenting with all sorts of funky nail art materials and I'm having real fun with them 😊
Thanks for the feed back...good to have a sounding board. Cheers.
I cut 100’s of cuts through aluminum engines heads every week to measure wall thicknesses inside the chamber voids. When I have a issue with the blade wanting to swerve to one side or another, it’s usually due to the teeth on the blade being damaged or wore down on one side of the blade.
Great tip!
I bet no bass on the planet has seen this presentation before. Love the out of the box thinking. I will be laid up for rotator cuff surgery. Will be watching all your videos and taking notes.
Like Suchajerk, I also use nail art foil. It has a veeeerry thin foil on a plastic backing. You apply glue (thin epoxy) and peel off the plastic. When done correctly, no measurable weight is added to the lure. When I foil, I do the entire bait (except for the bib). You can always cover it with opaque paints. Three colors work for me: silver, silver holographic, and clear (sometimes called white) holographic. If you are interested, I can send some info via email.
Best of luck with the surgery 👍
nicely done E.A. always a pleasure watching you do you thing. good to see you again.
Nothing like a fish taking a lure off the surface, I have made a couple of top water lures myself, they work great, I use a little bit of foil on my lures and when I have it just adds a bit of something else to the lure, I like it, great build, nice lure and an even better result getting that surface hit 👌👍
Thank you
Good evening Sir. You make very nice different lures. Awesome job! I used to use these silver foils for many years in the past. Nowadays there are special holographic foils for fingernails, which are beautiful and easily to apply. I am now also using new paints for airbrushing, that also look very nice. The aluminum foils have a big disadvantage. They are very smooth and the clear coat does not adhere very well and may eventually peel off. I am waiting for your new videos, so keep it up your awesome job. Greetings from Germany Jan Fischer 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🐟🐟🐟🐟🐟🐟🐟
Thank you so much for your input. Keep watching.
I wonder what it's action is at a stronger/longer pull ?
If it was a sinking lure, it would possibly have an interesting action too.
You probably have got the bandsaw problem sorted out by now,but here's a lil tip to use on every new blade. Take a small sharpening stone and while the saw is running hold it at an 90* angle at the back of the blade and lightly let the blade run on it.This will reduce/remove the bump where it was welded.Then hold it at about a 45* with the back of the blade and let it ride on the blade again,sort of move the stone so it rounds over the edge of the blade. This will help it cut better curves,can help with not cutting straight if it has a edge on one side and reduce or stop the clicking sound when it's running...which is the weld bump hitting the bearings or blocks. It doesn't take much pressure with the stone,but do leave it run a good number of revolutions.
They make a specific stick with a stone epoxied to it for doing this,but no need to spend $ unnecessarily.
If a blade is getting a lil duller on one side than the other it will wonder to that side.Because of the tooth set you can sort of test to see if this is happening.With the saw off you can slide your finger up the side of the blade to see if one side is duller than the other.You'll want to rotate the blade and check the whole thing.If only a short section is duller than the other it'll still give you problems.
Make sure your blade is 90* with the table too.
When changing blades loosen all bearings or rub/guide blocks,install other blade,tension it,then adjust your bearings,rub/guide blocks.Then recheck the squareness of the blade to table.
Ohhhh,and also be careful of the sparks!!!! Best to clean out the machine then do it and if you have dust collection do not run it while doing it.
Nice tip thanks...I had replaced the blade, it made a big difference.
@@EngineeredAngler Yeah it sounds like it may been duller on one side than the other.
Sometimes the tooth set can be off from one side to the other and it'll also do that.
Interesting lure Franco! Think a lot of lipless baits could be fished that way. So different down there than here (Ontario, Canada), no gators and the water in the lakes I fish is clear enough that the deep weed edge is down 15 to 18 feet. Silver/chrome lures work well for me so I'm looking for the best solution be it spray, aluminum tape, some other foil or reflective mylar. Find the foil tape to be a bit of a pain to work with on round-bodied lures (like a Big-O). While a specular chrome flash is desirable (to catch fishermen?) it may be that plain old Silver paint might reflect enough light to imitate the flash of a baitfish. Maybe some glitter in the clear-coat would do it. I'll have to take some underwater videos to see. Per the bandsaw problem, I agree with the others - the teeth one one side of the blade are likely duller and/or have less set than the other side causing the blade to veer off line. Had this happen when cutting too tight a radius for the width of the blade - hitting that knot didn't help either - knew right away that the blade was not happy. P.S. bet that gator would have given you one heck of a fight LOL!
Thanks for the feedback...it makes all this worthwhile. Gator hook-ups are never good
Nice job...your reflective tape is very well applied...nice detail...very unique lure !!!
Thank you very much!
Dull blades will pull to one side. Trust me, I am a chain saw expert. Sharp blades cut straight, as soon as it dulls it will pull to one side.
You will need to perform the next operation. We in Serbia call it (Breaking the saw) Special pliers that adjust the teeth on the saw, move a few millimeters to the left and then repeat the same on the right side. So that the blade could cut straight, it throws out sawdust. There is nothing difficult to do but it is very boring. Good luck Greetings from Serbia!
Thanks for the tip.
Oh yeah!.... loving the finesse topwater lure!....I’ve been wanting to build one! It seems like it’s gonna be a great Gator bait!😎
Check ur blade guide rollers & tension , they might need oil or replacement, check the rubber grip strips on the wheels for uneven wear ,check to see the wheels are in parallel& square hope this helps with bandsaw issues.
What reel was that ? Cool banana lure
"A solid mediocre works for me". That's something to live by right there.
The bass may not get as big here in Michigan, but at least we don't get chased by gators. 😆
I didn't think you'd catch a fish on that odd bait but you did.
As for your use of foil, I like the metallic look and I haven't yet tried the superior spray on silver products you've demonstrated so I'm relegated to either metal lures or foil, both of which I like and use. I do really well here with spoons and spinners.
Thanks for watching! And thanks for your feedback.
I dont go for perfection sculps it like Rodan. I like you have an engineering background so I like your approach. Greetings from the UK.
Thank you! Cheers!
You have what's known as blade deflection on your band saw, its pretty common, makes it difficult to cut a straight line. If you have a fence for it, you can correct the deflection with the fence. Take a scrap piece of wood and mark a straight line length wise , like you are ripping it. Start your cut on the line, and you will be able to see to which side the blade is deflecting towards. Its possible then to adjust your fence to match the blade deflection and giving you a straight cut. Next time you want to rip a piece wood, you will probably have to repeat the same process again, as the blade will generally not deflect to the same side always and maybe by a different amount. When you saw curves on the band saw then try to rip a straight cut you will need to reset your fence to match the deflection.
Thanks for the tip. I just bought a nice new Bosch blade and that fixed it.
About your band saw, it looks like you have a 1/2” blade? I could not really see well. Have you replaced or checked the rubber tires? Some times they get grooves due to the blade tension, then you get an uncontrollable curve. When you adjust the set of bearings around the cut throat it will tend to want to hit one bearing more than the other. Let me know if there is any of these. Regards, Cameron. PS-there may be a build up of sawdust or even sap under the tires
I replaced the blade and it now cuts fine. Thank you.
More shine is always better in much humble opinion! Great looking lure.
Thanks.
I use foil on every single lure I make. Lots of big topwaters (search JB Customs Fishing for reference) and I love it. Extra work trying to cover the seams with epoxy, but the realistic flash is unmatched
Very cool... thanks for sharing 👍
great lure, gotta try one like this.
i use foil on 99% of my lures but usually dim the reflections by sanding it with
That's interesting...I'm always trying to make it more reflective. Thank you for sharing.
Great different build that works. If weight properly this could be converted to an ice fishing lure. More foil means more flash which you need in the early morning or evening to catch light and attract fish on the hunt. Check Utube for help on your band sale, but have to agree with Wayne D, Wheel maybe out of alignment. Just like a belt sander. Remember your motor -pump alignment training - when you mic a coupler in.
Great point!
I just tossed the one I made in my tackle box yesterday. I didn't put any weight in mine the hooks and rings were enough. Your saw blade is dull on one side. You can try and adjust your guides but if it is going off in the one direction change the blade.
Thank you...I'm buying a new blade.
Good as always thank you.
Nice bait and I use foil on everyone of my Shad lures. I’ve tried everything that you have except the silver plating. But I have done a few foiled Gill patterns as well and it looked good.
Thanks for the feedback...cheers.
Nothing like a top water bite !! I would like to pick your brain on buoyancy. Let’s say I core drill a wood body and plug it off, sealed completely leaving a sealed void within the body of lure. Is it best to leave that void empty or fill it with a material to create more buoyancy ??
You can only create greater buoyancy by reducing weight. Or you can make the lure larger keeping the weight the same, or less. If you fill the void, it has to be with a material that is lighter (lower density) than the wood. Hope this helps.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks for your response, so would you say not filling the void would create the most buoyancy ?
Man I love your work keep em coming
Thanks 😊
Very nice work and a lot of information as well. Your boat is very stable, I like your pet Gator.
That's was the little gator... the big one is much more intimidating.
Thanks for watching.
Awesome work brother ! And in my opinion foiled is the key to a more realistic lure.
Thank you...I think so too.
Excellent build and catch, I loved it!
Thank you very much!
As allways great tutorial. Explaind till the last detail. I often use alu foil or another kind od foils and if you want to get more flash in water it is usefull. Have you try transfer holo-foil for nails. Pretty cool
Yes...I like it but I find it a bit fiddly...
Thanks
The offset on the blade teeth are worn down on one side possibly due to trying to make too tight of a turn with the wider blade. I just made one of the pike piling style blades but I didn’t catch any fish yet🙃
Thanks for the advice...I'll just change the blade.
I already made it... Always I enjoy to your youtube. From Korea...
Thank you...cheers.
I bought two blades for mine and they were just off. One rattled really bad and made crazy cuts and one would drift like you’re talking about maybe just try another 1/4 in blade
nice to know...I'm going to find a higher quality blade. Thank you
You are great ? Like your creative. You need a tester . Dying minnow.?
good job make me want one
That’s about a $10,000 lure. One of a kind though and going to the highest bidder above 10K.
Franco, There are some good UA-cam videos on how to eliminate drift. I had problems after changing out a blade.
PS. I hadn’t seen a finesse topwater lure before. Yours turned out great! Thanks for the idea. I’ll make one and give it a try .🙂
Thanks for the tip
Show a selection / past designs .
check out my playlists....cheers.
Nice lure...
Thanks 👍
Lure Same as have lure.mantap🙏👍
Muita técnica, parabéns!
obrigada
Foil is great. Keep using foil.
It could be that band saw blade is not evenly sharp.
replace that blade, pinching the blade can remove the set from the teeth and make it walk badly
That's the plan...thanks.
Would you make any to sale?
No...I just don't have the time....but thanks for asking.
Hi my friend
Hello 👋
Piku piku yakyl
Nice bait bud to much tolking broo dont speck sow much
WHAT???
first