@@JimnyRicardo Not OP but I would think both. I would imagine it would be a little bit more useful for bouldering though as there are more moves that are extremely hard to stick if you do them dynamically, so locking off lets you hit them more statically vs sport where pump is generally more of an issue than the raw difficulty of moves.
I find useful to down climb every boulder problem I climb, no matter the difficulty. It forces to block arms in order to move and position the legs down.
Hi @climbingdaily ! Just wanted to say that this blockhelden training tips serie is great. In a really short video the Blockhelden team is able to give great tips that are usefull for every climber whatever their level. Don't hesitate to upload some more if you have more tips to give 😉
As someone who has done pullups on 2x4 rafters like that, I can attest that it works your chest more than your pinch. If you really want to work pinch then do it on a single rafter.
Wow, memories! Used to do the lock-off pullups w/ 125% bodyweight years and years ago. As you say, they helped me a ton developing strength and confidence when on lead. I personally feel lock-off strength helps more when setting pro on trad routes than for sport, but definitely useful for both.
Hanna Schoon start with Australian pull-ups. You can alternate between close grip and wide grip, and you can also lock off at various angles. Once you are extremely comfortable with Aussie pull-ups then try straight hanging, but make sure your lats etc are engaged. Before you know it you’ll be able to do your first pull-up.
@@LiFeLeSs1995 Not sure what Richard's on about. An Australian pull-up is where your feet are elevated, so you're pulling yourself up to a bar that's maybe waist height, but with your feet out in front of the bar. Useful warm-up/progression.
Do you have a video / tips for the combined pull up, lock off and rock over move (to reach a hold that is above and also beyond an arms length to the side, left or right)? I can manage an upward pull up and lockoff, and a rock over as individual moves - but pulling up and locking off for a hold out to the side is blocking me from completing routes (especially when it's the last move). Any advice on how to improve and train for this would be gratefully received!
She's also NOT climbing... she's strength training. The bicep curl has very little carry over to climbing as well, but would you deny that it's a good exercise for gaining strength?
Learnt lockoffs by jumping into a one arm lock and just trying to hold it. Terrible idea and form but after 3 weeks I could hold it in any position for around 15 seconds
Thank you for great video. 락오프가 있는 문제들은 모두 못풀어서 혹시나 유튜브에 검색해보다가 이 영상을 보게됐어요! 저도 언젠가 루틴 따라할만한 실력이 되면 좋겠어요! Leaving memo for myself in future. 1. VLI(0-45-90-120) 2. Use ring 3. Use pull-up band
always depends on your other sport related activities and on how hard you make each exercise for yourself. Once or two times a week could be a good start. Wach out for your ellbows and adjust resttimes.
Waitaminute did he really just say he can't touch his shoulder with the same hand??? I'm not very flexible at all but I can almost lay my palm flat on my shoulder
Would these exercises be suitable for a 6 year old? Sounds mad I know but he does pull ups reasonably well and is in the process of learning to lead so I would love to incorporate this type of thing but don't want to damage my little beast. Bit at the end by the way woooow!! I made the same face as you xD
I got some wooden pinch blocks from witch holds a couple of weeks ago and started to do assisted hangs on them to up my pinch strength. They come in different widths too
It's the beard that makes him so powerful
well... i think it definitely doesn't make we weaker ;)
Would love to see more training videos like this
I think that would be a great for this channel,
we will keep it in mind, when Matt drops by next time
I’ve seen an incredible difference in my climbing ever since my lock offs have been good.
Bouldering or sportclimbing?
@@JimnyRicardo Not OP but I would think both. I would imagine it would be a little bit more useful for bouldering though as there are more moves that are extremely hard to stick if you do them dynamically, so locking off lets you hit them more statically vs sport where pump is generally more of an issue than the raw difficulty of moves.
I find useful to down climb every boulder problem I climb, no matter the difficulty. It forces to block arms in order to move and position the legs down.
same here, its also good for training endurance as well on longer boulders!
7:00 Matt, you can do this one-armed! 🤘
Hi @climbingdaily !
Just wanted to say that this blockhelden training tips serie is great. In a really short video the Blockhelden team is able to give great tips that are usefull for every climber whatever their level. Don't hesitate to upload some more if you have more tips to give 😉
Thx Quentin, really appreciate it. We will get some new training ideas together for the next time Matt's visiting.
As someone who has done pullups on 2x4 rafters like that, I can attest that it works your chest more than your pinch. If you really want to work pinch then do it on a single rafter.
That ring exercise is SO HARD. He made it look easy!
it didn't felt that easy ;)
ooo shoot... I overread the ring... So sorry. Tobsn is just crazy strong in the full block. For him it's definetely easy XD
Wow, memories!
Used to do the lock-off pullups w/ 125% bodyweight years and years ago. As you say, they helped me a ton developing strength and confidence when on lead. I personally feel lock-off strength helps more when setting pro on trad routes than for sport, but definitely useful for both.
Awesome beard and great videos. I love this channel. It reminds me that I am not the only one obsessed with climbing.
Lock-off List of requirements:
1. "A great big bushy beard!"
Ahahaha Hot Fuzz
I can't even do a pull-up : /
Good video regardless!
Work hard girl :) you will get there!
Hanna Schoon start with Australian pull-ups. You can alternate between close grip and wide grip, and you can also lock off at various angles. Once you are extremely comfortable with Aussie pull-ups then try straight hanging, but make sure your lats etc are engaged. Before you know it you’ll be able to do your first pull-up.
@@uremawifenowdave what's an australian pull-up ?
@@LiFeLeSs1995 Handstand
@@LiFeLeSs1995 Not sure what Richard's on about. An Australian pull-up is where your feet are elevated, so you're pulling yourself up to a bar that's maybe waist height, but with your feet out in front of the bar. Useful warm-up/progression.
Do you have a video / tips for the combined pull up, lock off and rock over move (to reach a hold that is above and also beyond an arms length to the side, left or right)? I can manage an upward pull up and lockoff, and a rock over as individual moves - but pulling up and locking off for a hold out to the side is blocking me from completing routes (especially when it's the last move). Any advice on how to improve and train for this would be gratefully received!
I’m excited to try these new exercises
Shes doing a chin up. In the pics its a chin up aswell. The hand position on the chin up has way less carryover to climbing then pull up
She's also NOT climbing... she's strength training. The bicep curl has very little carry over to climbing as well, but would you deny that it's a good exercise for gaining strength?
The grip is in a chin up on the third exercise... start with chin up then move to pull up grip?
Learnt lockoffs by jumping into a one arm lock and just trying to hold it. Terrible idea and form but after 3 weeks I could hold it in any position for around 15 seconds
Thank you for great video.
락오프가 있는 문제들은 모두 못풀어서 혹시나 유튜브에 검색해보다가 이 영상을 보게됐어요!
저도 언젠가 루틴 따라할만한 실력이 되면 좋겠어요!
Leaving memo for myself in future.
1. VLI(0-45-90-120)
2. Use ring
3. Use pull-up band
Could it be able to ad the Boreal Ace and Ballet to your webschop becaus they arent there and i would love to buy them
i would like to know what is the rest time between each set (total 3 set ) for exercise one? thanks
Great Video!
Holy shit those pinch pull ups! Respect man, another level... And yes, I think is the beard too! Hahaha
I can hold a full lock-off for a few seconds but my elbows don't like it very much.
Loved it. How many days a week would you suggest, daily everyother...?
always depends on your other sport related activities and on how hard you make each exercise for yourself. Once or two times a week could be a good start. Wach out for your ellbows and adjust resttimes.
I can hold the L's for a while but can't full lock at all 😩. Great video guys.
How many times a week should you do this?
How much rest time between the sets?
Great video but I disagree about the biceps. Being musclebound is a thing. There's a physical limit that my arm can bend depending on my bicep size
Careful with these. Training lock-offs at angles below 90 deg at the elbow is a fast route into elbow problems!
Pinch !!!! WOW
Still trying to do one pullup! 🤣
First time I heard "elbow flexibility" as a thing. Does he mean mobility?
hargow4u ye
Waitaminute did he really just say he can't touch his shoulder with the same hand??? I'm not very flexible at all but I can almost lay my palm flat on my shoulder
Would these exercises be suitable for a 6 year old? Sounds mad I know but he does pull ups reasonably well and is in the process of learning to lead so I would love to incorporate this type of thing but don't want to damage my little beast. Bit at the end by the way woooow!! I made the same face as you xD
I definetly would NOT suggest one armed negativ pullups for a 6 year old. Just let him climb, having fun ;)
Wtf inpractice that i used to practice that on my ceiling beams and did 2 once but that was insane
Glad you had a female athlete included in the examples 😊
5:07 thats a negative
just getting longer draws?
Güd jōb
I was looking for some pinch training, now a suppose i have my answer.
I got some wooden pinch blocks from witch holds a couple of weeks ago and started to do assisted hangs on them to up my pinch strength. They come in different widths too
How about a comparison with women climbers?
most of the girls in our gym can full lock better than the boys ;)
gorgeous strong lass with a hearthstone tattoo, gets the thumbs up from me
first
Just climb