I think it would be very interesting to watch a video of any pro climber talking about the use of a helmet. This is so important and everyone is avoiding this subject.
Wouldn't say avoiding, most of the climbers climbing really hard grades are often climbing steep overhang or roof. In this situation it's not necessary if you know that falls that you take, will just leave you hanging in the air. Of course it's really important and recommended.
@@gustavograssi Even on slabs if you fall properly a helmet doesn't help much, and pros know how to fall. Where a helmet is really absolutely necessary is sketchy trad, and you very often see pros wearing helmets there.
I'm glad people doing these videos make sure we know that 99% of the time we won't be experiencing anywhere near this amount of force. 8kn is bad enough and you'd probably be injured, 10kn is definite back injury.
The carabiner user manual that comes with @mammut carabiners indicates that they should never be tri-loaded nor loaded by the gate, but both of these are possible outcomes when using a carabiner through the tie-in points with a sling as shown at 4:40 in this video. It's unfortunate that Mammut's own engineer is giving incorrect advice so publicly.
Probably a non issue. The harder you pull the more the tie in points align and you should not get into critical force territory anyway. So it's probably safer then having a girth hitched sling rubbing around the belay loop, which is not really critical either. I mean this is used to attach yourself to an anchor and not meant to see more than 1kn of force. I use a dynamic lanyard anyway which doesn't tend to cut as much as a dyneema sling
@@audiojck1 the risk of loading the gate is very much present when using a carabiner this way, and when using a static sling, there's much higher force potential.
@@nikolaihedler8883 true. Should still be fine for the scenario though as long as it's a locking carabiner. I will keep girth hitching my anchor sling anyway and just stay alert that it is meant for static loads. For sport climbing I use a connect adjust that will cut a bit less due to being a bigger dynamic rope.
Yeah, I get the feeling that this is solving a theoretical problem (belay loops do not get cut by a girth hitch under normal loads, not even when falling into a ferrata set with 6kN) by introducing plenty of new issues. Not only cross loading or loading the gates, but also an unreliable screw gate which can easily come undone while climbing. At the very least this should be a tri-lock, better a ball-lock (although Mammut surely won't recommend a Petzl product). This also creates a lot new potential for the harness rubbing against the carabiner
What about anchor systems when cleaning a.sport route? The girtch is done at the other two loops as a rope is attached, why it does not cut like a belay loop?
The "level"/depth of this is way lower than what hownot2 does, and I find it quite nice that HowNot2 do their things in an indepedant setup than brands, videos are less scripted than this ...
while it's true that it weakens the belay loop by constricting it, that's not really a factor in practice as it is still plenty strong. There is a risk however, and that is that if you leave your sling/personal anchor permanently on your belay loop it sees a lot of wear in the same spot, hidden from view. If you attach it like this you should regularly take it off and check for wear, and reattach in a different spot
@@baybaymaus I do the same (or basket hitch if it's a long sling) and I don't understand why people complain that it's uncomfortable. They say it's uncomfortable because it pulls the tie-in points together, but that makes little sense to me as the tie-in points get pulled together whenever you load the belay loop anyway, and when unloaded the girth hitched tie-in points will relax and open up anyway. Much safer imo.
I use an 8mm maillon rapide, the longer one, on my Mammut harness as a 2nd belay loop and I use it for auto belay machines in the gym and for my PAS outside. I've got another one on the back of my harness for backup/bailout. It works just fine. I'm happy with it. It's super strong enough :-P go Adam, go Ryan, go Mammut 😊 keep on sending 😊
Mammut could have chosen a better representative for the first section of this video. The people in Hard Not Easy videos are super interesting and their explanations are far more detailed.
I thought about that too, but I am sure the guy in the video here could say all of that same stuff, but my guess is this has more to do with whoever "directed" this video.
:o jak se teda ma spravne davat odsedka na sedak? takhle pres zamkovku? to jsem u nikoho nikdy nevidel :o a ohledně kN při pádu do lana.. co když spadne člověk špatně do štandu, to musí být víc kN i pádovej faktor okolo 2 ne?
All those concepts were introduced in this video using simple words. There is no need to go on scientific language and explanations if 90% of the Public does not understand it.
Adam predicting that the rope will break before the harness was actually hilarious.
Can't beat experience 😂
Dude no way 😂😂
🐐🐐🐐
If you guys interested more in these topics, HardIsEasy and HowNot2Higline has many videos regarding the gear and safety
Brought to us by the man filmed on multiple occasions letting go of the break hand on the grigri. 😂
I think it would be very interesting to watch a video of any pro climber talking about the use of a helmet. This is so important and everyone is avoiding this subject.
Wouldn't say avoiding, most of the climbers climbing really hard grades are often climbing steep overhang or roof. In this situation it's not necessary if you know that falls that you take, will just leave you hanging in the air. Of course it's really important and recommended.
@@saketssss they don't use the helmet even on slabs so... I think it's more of an "esthetic coolness" thing. That's my guess.
just like in skateboarding, the pros will not use a helmet, or talk about it
@@emilsandbakken6909 Except one of the best skaters always wearing a helmet when skating streets and everything.
@@gustavograssi Even on slabs if you fall properly a helmet doesn't help much, and pros know how to fall. Where a helmet is really absolutely necessary is sketchy trad, and you very often see pros wearing helmets there.
I'm glad people doing these videos make sure we know that 99% of the time we won't be experiencing anywhere near this amount of force. 8kn is bad enough and you'd probably be injured, 10kn is definite back injury.
We won't, but your anchor/pro might.
Something to remember.
Also make sure to hold the break side of the rope :D
the better the climber, the worse the belayer
let's make this the top comment ! it's such an important topic and adam, even tho you're my climbing idol, you've been showing a bad example !
Yeeesss ! Another video ! Grab some popcorn everyone and enjoy ! Go Adam ! 💪
The carabiner user manual that comes with @mammut carabiners indicates that they should never be tri-loaded nor loaded by the gate, but both of these are possible outcomes when using a carabiner through the tie-in points with a sling as shown at 4:40 in this video. It's unfortunate that Mammut's own engineer is giving incorrect advice so publicly.
Probably a non issue. The harder you pull the more the tie in points align and you should not get into critical force territory anyway.
So it's probably safer then having a girth hitched sling rubbing around the belay loop, which is not really critical either. I mean this is used to attach yourself to an anchor and not meant to see more than 1kn of force.
I use a dynamic lanyard anyway which doesn't tend to cut as much as a dyneema sling
@@audiojck1 the risk of loading the gate is very much present when using a carabiner this way, and when using a static sling, there's much higher force potential.
@@nikolaihedler8883 true. Should still be fine for the scenario though as long as it's a locking carabiner.
I will keep girth hitching my anchor sling anyway and just stay alert that it is meant for static loads. For sport climbing I use a connect adjust that will cut a bit less due to being a bigger dynamic rope.
Yeah, I get the feeling that this is solving a theoretical problem (belay loops do not get cut by a girth hitch under normal loads, not even when falling into a ferrata set with 6kN) by introducing plenty of new issues. Not only cross loading or loading the gates, but also an unreliable screw gate which can easily come undone while climbing. At the very least this should be a tri-lock, better a ball-lock (although Mammut surely won't recommend a Petzl product). This also creates a lot new potential for the harness rubbing against the carabiner
What about anchor systems when cleaning a.sport route? The girtch is done at the other two loops as a rope is attached, why it does not cut like a belay loop?
Wow! Really interesting information. I love getting to see the behind the scenes of this stuff.
Its this kind of content that makes me so happy to have found climbing as a spectator.
Naprosto super videjko :O spousta informací, co bohužel není nikde oficiálně ani pro prodejce, ani pro veřejnost
We need a collab with HowNot2
The "level"/depth of this is way lower than what hownot2 does, and I find it quite nice that HowNot2 do their things in an indepedant setup than brands, videos are less scripted than this ...
I find the suggestion that girth hitching to the belay loop is dangerous to be a bit dubious
i also thought so. I would add that using a carabiner opens the possibility of human error e.g. carabiner is not locked
Idk when a girth hitch would be used in any way to take a large amount of force. Personally only use it on a static Personal anchor.
while it's true that it weakens the belay loop by constricting it, that's not really a factor in practice as it is still plenty strong. There is a risk however, and that is that if you leave your sling/personal anchor permanently on your belay loop it sees a lot of wear in the same spot, hidden from view. If you attach it like this you should regularly take it off and check for wear, and reattach in a different spot
Girth hitch the hard points with the sling. Been doing that for 25 years. No problem.
@@baybaymaus
I do the same (or basket hitch if it's a long sling) and I don't understand why people complain that it's uncomfortable.
They say it's uncomfortable because it pulls the tie-in points together, but that makes little sense to me as the tie-in points get pulled together whenever you load the belay loop anyway, and when unloaded the girth hitched tie-in points will relax and open up anyway.
Much safer imo.
14:32 -> Adam going in his head like "I told you it's the ro-oope. I told you it's the ro-ooope. hahahaha"
I use an 8mm maillon rapide, the longer one, on my Mammut harness as a 2nd belay loop and I use it for auto belay machines in the gym and for my PAS outside. I've got another one on the back of my harness for backup/bailout. It works just fine. I'm happy with it. It's super strong enough :-P go Adam, go Ryan, go Mammut 😊 keep on sending 😊
Thanks you so much, it is a side of climbing really interesting me, considering how serious any defect may mean ... great idea :)
I hope @HowNOT2 will recreate these, so we can see the numbers!
He did a vid on harnesses lately.
this is so interesting. what a cool unique look into the materials.
Yay a new video!
I'm really curious where this will go once Adam retires from the competitions. My guess is a lot of behind the scenes like this one and outdoors.
don't make Michael Bay jealous with all those explosions...
thank you
Hi Adam! Nice video! What model are your pants?
Mammut could have chosen a better representative for the first section of this video. The people in Hard Not Easy videos are super interesting and their explanations are far more detailed.
I thought about that too, but I am sure the guy in the video here could say all of that same stuff, but my guess is this has more to do with whoever "directed" this video.
Finally new videooo
great video!
Bro it’s been 1 minute
😂
Bro didn’t even watch it yet
Cool!
Brasil here your crazy.
I don't get why they test the belay in the '' middle'' loop where we belay instead of the top and bottom loop where we actually tie our rope 🤔
Cool
:o jak se teda ma spravne davat odsedka na sedak? takhle pres zamkovku? to jsem u nikoho nikdy nevidel :o
a ohledně kN při pádu do lana.. co když spadne člověk špatně do štandu, to musí být víc kN i pádovej faktor okolo 2 ne?
8:54 Sturzanlage; schöner Fachbegriff
3:40
How did we get all the way through this video without mentioning 'stress', 'strain', 'elastic deformation', 'plastic deformation', or 'elongation'...
All those concepts were introduced in this video using simple words. There is no need to go on scientific language and explanations if 90% of the Public does not understand it.
@@TehPkaa This probably seems out of nowhere, but do you do overclocking? Your name reminds me of someone.
I dont think a piece of fabric ever explodes
Lewis Elizabeth Perez John Brown Nancy
Why do we need silly background music?
@HowNOT2 😂
sorry my man, they took your concept and watered it down. hold on, you're the best at what you do ;)
instant