They work but you need to be consistent with tightening the pinion nut. The preload will be different with 100' lbs of torque as compared to 150' lbs of torque. Once the initial free play is removed on the companion flange a torque wrench should be used to be consistent and make sure the nut is properly tightened. Additionally the hammering of an impact can damage the bearings especially if not enough shims are used and the preload is too tight. The bearing rollers get hammered into the race with the hammering effect of an impact tool. Many techs use and impact without damaging the bearings but it can and does happen and it does shorten the life of the bearing. When using an impact the technician is taking chances that they won't damage the bearing and all will be OK.
The problem is there is no giving torque specification for the pinion nut unless the original from the factory was a shim style (no crush sleeve). The pinion nut has thread locker on it and this impacts the torque wrench reading. This is why I normally stick with the crush sleeve. There is no torque spec just a rotational friction measurement also known as pinion bearing preload. I have done a few eliminator kits but I was really careful and applied a lot and very consistent torque during the setup.
That's interesting about the impact hammer, I build hundreds of large spicer, merritor, Rockwell differentials on heavy trucks, do you think we tighten yoke nuts by hand? 😂😂, never ever had a problem, narry a problem on light duty either, you must be confused with someone who ran the gun down so hard it indented the roller into the babbit layer of the race, if you don't over tighten in one pull you will be fine, never hurt anything my man.
Yes I teach tightening by hand with a torque multiplier. If you think about it isn't your impact gun acting like a hammer on the socket which hammers on the bearing. When you torque other bolts (eg head bolts) you don't put the wrench on the bolt and use a hammer to turn the torque wrench. You want an even consistent motion for the most accurate turning torque. I know a lot of techs who use the impact for this job and don't have any comebacks that they know of and this is because the bearing failure may not happen for 20,000 miles. The damage to the bearing is often very subtle. All I'm pointing out is that to ensure longevity of the rebuild a better practice is to use a torque multiplier and tighten by hand.
@@DrivelineMaster my stuff still runs down the road plowing snow for the state highways 24 hours a day years on end, rotational hits on the yoke nut by an airgun are completely not the same as hitting the bearing with a hammer what talking about? grab the yoke by hand move it left and right while your tightening the nut with an airgun until you feel the resistance you want. Would I use an airgun on torque to yield headbolts....no. but alright, fiddle with torque multipliers and such, to each his own.
I came to comments to say that lol. When I get pinion depth correct or if I’m just doing bearings I use a set up bearing for the seal side with no crush sleeve obviously, hand tighten pinion nut to zero lash then use a caliper to measure from end of pinion to pinion nut. Then take pinion out, put bearing back on, spin the nut down to the measurement I took then measure new crush sleeve and use the press to take out half the clearance.
Great video..As for the product I guess I don't get the value of The Eliminator when a crush sleeve is only 10 bucks and just torque it and go and yeah you may have to spend 10 bucks again if you go back in but how many times you going back... Just seems like more hassle than Reward
This seems like an unnecessary solution to me. How often are you rebuilding your differential? It's not like you're spending your life savings on crush sleeves; the sleeves for my truck are $5 each and the solid eliminator costs $62. Edit: Ah, I didn't realize that this makes a trailside repair a lot easier because you don't have to replace a part.
The crush sleeve was only invented because it saved time on the assembly line for car manufacturers .I personally hate crush sleeves. I just put a pinion sea in my 57 Plymouth differential, and it has a solid spacer. I just tourqe the pinion nut to 150 ft lbs and job done.
For those of us that are building for long term and know what we’re doing, a crush sleeve is just fine. The crush sleeve eliminator is only useful if they’re changing gears a lot or don’t know what they’re doing and have to keep rebuilding. 🤷♂️
@@user-pw7wl3nu1l yes, they're dirt cheap and available at most automotive stores and Amazon. Anytime I'm building a differential I pick up a couple just in case. It's so much simpler and quicker than fooling with shims.
This allows repeated disassembly and reassembly without replacing the crush sleeve. A pain to set up, but once it's done you're good indefinitely. If you're definitely never going to take your axle apart again, just use a crush sleeve. If you're incapable of leaving well enough alone like a lot of us, then an eliminator can be a lifesaver.
They work but you need to be consistent with tightening the pinion nut. The preload will be different with 100' lbs of torque as compared to 150' lbs of torque. Once the initial free play is removed on the companion flange a torque wrench should be used to be consistent and make sure the nut is properly tightened. Additionally the hammering of an impact can damage the bearings especially if not enough shims are used and the preload is too tight. The bearing rollers get hammered into the race with the hammering effect of an impact tool. Many techs use and impact without damaging the bearings but it can and does happen and it does shorten the life of the bearing. When using an impact the technician is taking chances that they won't damage the bearing and all will be OK.
This is exactly why my pinion bearings blowout after 2 years of a shop repairing them.
The problem is there is no giving torque specification for the pinion nut unless the original from the factory was a shim style (no crush sleeve). The pinion nut has thread locker on it and this impacts the torque wrench reading. This is why I normally stick with the crush sleeve. There is no torque spec just a rotational friction measurement also known as pinion bearing preload. I have done a few eliminator kits but I was really careful and applied a lot and very consistent torque during the setup.
That's interesting about the impact hammer, I build hundreds of large spicer, merritor, Rockwell differentials on heavy trucks, do you think we tighten yoke nuts by hand? 😂😂, never ever had a problem, narry a problem on light duty either, you must be confused with someone who ran the gun down so hard it indented the roller into the babbit layer of the race, if you don't over tighten in one pull you will be fine, never hurt anything my man.
Yes I teach tightening by hand with a torque multiplier. If you think about it isn't your impact gun acting like a hammer on the socket which hammers on the bearing. When you torque other bolts (eg head bolts) you don't put the wrench on the bolt and use a hammer to turn the torque wrench. You want an even consistent motion for the most accurate turning torque. I know a lot of techs who use the impact for this job and don't have any comebacks that they know of and this is because the bearing failure may not happen for 20,000 miles. The damage to the bearing is often very subtle. All I'm pointing out is that to ensure longevity of the rebuild a better practice is to use a torque multiplier and tighten by hand.
@@DrivelineMaster my stuff still runs down the road plowing snow for the state highways 24 hours a day years on end, rotational hits on the yoke nut by an airgun are completely not the same as hitting the bearing with a hammer what talking about? grab the yoke by hand move it left and right while your tightening the nut with an airgun until you feel the resistance you want. Would I use an airgun on torque to yield headbolts....no. but alright, fiddle with torque multipliers and such, to each his own.
One thing I tried recently that's called Smart Sleeve, it didn't go well.. cost me 2 nuts.. so I threw it away and used a conventional crush sleeve
using a set up bearing for pinion depth is a life saver also
I came to comments to say that lol. When I get pinion depth correct or if I’m just doing bearings I use a set up bearing for the seal side with no crush sleeve obviously, hand tighten pinion nut to zero lash then use a caliper to measure from end of pinion to pinion nut. Then take pinion out, put bearing back on, spin the nut down to the measurement I took then measure new crush sleeve and use the press to take out half the clearance.
Exactly what I was looking for!
Thanks Jerry.I might use this for my 8.8 build.👍👍💪
Yes you should
Great video..As for the product I guess I don't get the value of The Eliminator when a crush sleeve is only 10 bucks and just torque it and go and yeah you may have to spend 10 bucks again if you go back in but how many times you going back... Just seems like more hassle than Reward
From what I remember, the Ford 9"s that came with the Daytona pinion bearing retainer used a solid spacer, not a crush sleeve.
First I have heard of them. Thanks bro.
This seems like an unnecessary solution to me. How often are you rebuilding your differential? It's not like you're spending your life savings on crush sleeves; the sleeves for my truck are $5 each and the solid eliminator costs $62.
Edit: Ah, I didn't realize that this makes a trailside repair a lot easier because you don't have to replace a part.
All my axles get an eliminator , I've had crush sleeves loosen up on me in the past that I didn't build .
The crush sleeve was only invented because it saved time on the assembly line for car manufacturers .I personally hate crush sleeves. I just put a pinion sea in my 57 Plymouth differential, and it has a solid spacer. I just tourqe the pinion nut to 150 ft lbs and job done.
For those of us that are building for long term and know what we’re doing, a crush sleeve is just fine. The crush sleeve eliminator is only useful if they’re changing gears a lot or don’t know what they’re doing and have to keep rebuilding. 🤷♂️
yeah sounds about right. and id rather not learn the hard way. lol
So if your pinion seal goes out, how do you torqued backup? Do you use another crash sleeve?
@@user-pw7wl3nu1l yes, they're dirt cheap and available at most automotive stores and Amazon. Anytime I'm building a differential I pick up a couple just in case. It's so much simpler and quicker than fooling with shims.
What is the eliminator exactly? A spacer and a set of shims?
That's the way it was done before the crush sleeve was invented.
Do they offer that for 11+ F150 including raptors that have a 9.75
Is the spec for preload measured without a carrier/ring gear installed or with? I'm assuming without?
Always without.
Where can I get the tool for rolling drag?
What is the final torque rating on the pinion nut with an eliminator?
the same as what the application calls for
With a Ford 8.8 its 140ft lbs
I used my old one and sent it
🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣🫣
😆😆😆
Have fun replacing bearings afterwards…..
All that trouble, why not just a regular crush sleeve ? All that hassle isn't worth it.
This allows repeated disassembly and reassembly without replacing the crush sleeve. A pain to set up, but once it's done you're good indefinitely.
If you're definitely never going to take your axle apart again, just use a crush sleeve. If you're incapable of leaving well enough alone like a lot of us, then an eliminator can be a lifesaver.
Sounds like the crush sleeve is easier for a novice, less guessing.
no its used because its faster to crank out rear ends from the factory than taking a pinion apart several times
No you got it wrong if your loose you need to remove shims not add them
Thanks captain obvious. Go back over to tictok or Twitter with that nonsense "no, you're wrong" garbage.